# Travelmemo — full content ## Hiking Through Costa Rica’s Jungle Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/costa-rica-rainforest-tours Hiking through Costa Rica's jungle If you really want to experience Costa Rica’s wildlife and landscapes, you have to set off on foot. Ideally on a jungle hike.From the car you’ll never spot a sloth in the treetops, a capuchin monkey in the beachside scrub, and certainly no hummingbird in the cloud forest.This country’s spectacular sights are all reachable on foot – and that’s exactly what we do on our 2.5-week road trip.Depending on the region, Costa Rica’s jungle is made up of one of four forest types:Tropical rainforestTropical dry forestCloud forestMangrove forestThe most beautiful hikes are in the tropical rainforest along the Pacific coast and in the Monteverde cloud forest.This article follows our route from south to north. The lush vegetation shows the incredible biodiversity of the Costa Rican rainforests If you can only do three hikes Arenal 1968 Park – for the one-of-a-kind lava field meets rainforest combinationMonteverde Continental Divide Trail – for atmosphere and biodiversityLower Nauyaca Waterfalls – for the spectacular natural pool to swim inWe’ve sorted the rest of this article by our travel route.Short on time? Scroll straight to the three highlights above: Arenal 1968 Park, Monteverde or Nauyaca. At the outdoor hub of Uvita (southern Pacific coast) Uvita is our base camp for three days. From here you can reach all the highlights of the southern Pacific coast in an hour’s drive at most. Hurry up - at Marino Ballena the tide rolls in from two sides at once! Manuel Antonio National Park Manuel Antonio National Park: you can, but you don’t have to.Costa Rica’s most famous national park is also its most overrun.Getting there and arrival: At the last bend before the park, people with flags and vests wave you off the road.We want to explore the park on our own. That’s supposedly not possible – we absolutely must take a guide, we’re told in no uncertain terms.Intimidated, we agree to let someone climb into our rental car and direct us a few hundred meters ahead to a guarded parking lot. At least it’s right by the official entrance gate to Manuel Antonio National Park. A guide is assigned to us too, and duly charged for.Tip: Book tickets in advance through the official SINAC platform, and the whole song and dance at the entrance falls away. If you hold your ground.The park is closed on Tuesdays, open 7:00 to 16:00.In the park: The trails are short and well built, often on raised wooden boardwalks. You don’t need sturdy footwear – simple sneakers will do.There are three monkey species to marvel at, plus sloths, crabs, and the hand-sized, brilliant turquoise-blue blue morpho butterfly.There are only a few of each, and you’ll mostly photograph through the guide’s spotting scope. He’s the only one who can spot anything in the dense jungle anyway.Most of the capuchin monkeys hang around the white sandy beach. Well aware that anyone taking selfies is bound to have something edible in their backpack.Never leave your backpack unattended – the monkeys are faster than you think.Highlight: Cathedral Point, a roughly one-hour loop trail out to the forested headland.Here you set off on your own, and there are hardly any tour groups around. Cathedral Point offers moss-covered trees, ocean views, and more monkeys than on the park’s main trails.Beaches in the park: Playa Manuel Antonio and Playa Espadilla Sur are the real reason to visit.Fine sand, turquoise water, rainforest right behind it. You wade into the sea, turn around, and see palms, lianas, jungle. And maybe a capuchin monkey swiping your snack from your backpack…No need to have seen it: For me, Manuel Antonio remains a disappointment despite its fame. If you’re after solitary wilderness, you’re better off in Monteverde or other national parks. Uvita & Marino Ballena National Park: Whales, the Fluke & the Sea Marino Ballena National Park Come for the whale’s tail, stay for the whales. The park doesn’t carry its name Ballena (whale) by chance: besides the humpback whales off the coast of Uvita, at low tide the sandbar forms a perfect whale’s tail that you can walk far out along on foot. And when the tide comes back in, the water surges in from two sides at once. A striking natural spectacle: you have to get a move on to make it back to shore with dry feet… Whale watching: Depending on the season, humpback whales migrate from the Arctic (December to April) or the Antarctic (July to October) into the warm bay of Uvita to give birth. We book a tour through GetYourGuide. After a short wait, the experienced guide suddenly spots two humpback whales that keep surfacing right beside our boat. The moment we hear them blow is magical. Practical details: Park entry: approx. USD 6 to 7 Whale-watching tour: USD 70 to 90 incl. drinking water and a watermelon snack, duration 2 to 3 hours Heads up: Getting into the boat, you’ll get wet up to your thighs. Choose your clothing accordingly. Nauyaca Waterfalls - a multi-tiered spectacle The two-tiered Nauyaca Falls are among Costa Rica's most spectacular natural wonders The lower Nauyaca waterfall is the star – that’s where Costa Rica’s best natural pool awaits.Getting there: About 10 minutes north of Dominical. The last few kilometers run over a bumpy gravel road through the jungle – 4×4 highly recommended.You can choose between two access points:Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park (USD 32): gravel-road approach, fewer visitors, restaurant and restrooms on site. Our choice and recommendation.Don Lulo Park (USD 10 on foot): paved approach, cheaper, but more crowded.The hike: Over 3.5 km of well-built trail, partly shaded. Which is crucial in the humid tropical heat.The trails to the upper and lower waterfalls are well signposted.Upper Nauyaca waterfall: In the dry season, a single powerful jet of water over a broad rock face. Impressive, but no pool to swim in.Lower Nauyaca waterfall: A spectacular broad wall of water (even in the dry season) plunges into a large natural pool. This is where you swim after the sweaty hike. There are more visitors here than at the upper Nauyaca waterfall.Travel tips:Start early because of the heat.Pack non-slip water shoes – the rocks around the pool are slippery.Use the shuttle back to the parking lot if your legs get heavy or it turns muggy-hot toward midday. Nauyaca Waterfalls: Gravel, Jungle and a Natural Pool Around the little town of La Fortuna (north) La Fortuna itself is plain and functional. Tourists come for what’s around it: Arenal Volcano, suspension bridges, waterfalls, coffee plantations. And luxury hotels. We stay four days and still have to cut things in the end that we don’t manage to fit in. Arenal 1968 Park - hiking across lava fields The most varied hike of the entire trip. The park carries the date of the great 1968 volcanic eruption in its name. The trails alternate between cooled lava fields (open, barren, surreal) and tropical rainforest (dense, shady, lush). Experience two completely different landscapes on a single hike. Practical details: Entry: approx. USD 28 Booking: arenal1968.com Duration: 2 to 3 hours depending on the trail you choose Footwear: sturdy is a must – lava is sharp-edged and uneven Stairs: around 500 steps up and down The volcano itself often stays hidden in clouds. The hike is one of the most striking experiences of the whole trip regardless. At the end, a kiosk offers refreshments with a view of the Arenal. If it shows itself, that is. Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna: 4 Top Costa Rica Experiences Mistico Park - suspension bridges over the treetops You don’t walk through the forest, you float in the treetops above it. At first, Mistico Park feels like a tourist park with a botanical garden. But it quickly turns into a full-blown jungle loop hike with 16 bridges, 6 of them suspension bridges. The highest measures 55 meters, the longest spans 97 meters. The perspectives on the rainforest from above – and partly from below – are among the best in the region. Side netting helps against vertigo, but the suspension bridges sway quite a bit. Practical details: Self-guided entry: USD 32 Booking: misticopark.com Footwear: sturdy footwear required (checked at the entrance) Optional: a guide for more background on the flora and fauna Tip: Mistico Park and Arenal 1968 are within sight of each other and combine nicely into a single day trip. Spectacular suspension bridge in the Mistico Suspension Bridge Park. La Fortuna Waterfall 70 meters of natural spectacle that you earn with 500 steps. The waterfall plunges 70 meters into an emerald-green pool. The descent down the stairs is steep. The climb back up all the more sweat-inducing. If you feel like it, you can swim in the relatively cold water of a second, smaller pool behind the waterfall’s main basin. Practical details: Entry: USD 20 Booking: cataratalafortuna.com Footwear: non-slip shoes, plus swimwear Timing: early morning, fewer visitors and more active wildlife Reward: Afterward, a cortado (espresso with a little milk foam) and an alfajor (sweet pastry with caramelized condensed milk) at the charming Vita Café across from the waterfall entrance. The 70-meter-high waterfall flows into a natural pool for swimming Chocolate and coffee tour with Don Juan A must in rainy weather, but worthwhile any time. Guide Jeremy gives entertaining and informative tours on the growing and processing of chocolate and coffee. The best part: afterward you grind and knead your own chocolate. Practice makes perfect. But no master has ever fallen from the sky: my chocolate blend doesn’t taste good… The Arabica beans are dried and roasted here in La Fortuna, but grown in higher-elevation Monteverde. Practical details: Cost: around USD 50 Booking: GetYourGuide or directly with Don Juan Bonus: toucans and the occasional sloth on the plantation grounds Ideal: in the rain, when hiking is unappealing Freshly roasted cocoa beans are traditionally processed into chocolate Tenorio Volcano and Rio Celeste A long drive, but the turquoise-blue river is one of a kind. The Rio Celeste owes its name to a natural phenomenon: at a particular spot in Tenorio National Park, two mineral-rich streams mix, and the river turns a glowing turquoise blue right there. Below it lies the waterfall of the same name, with an equally deep-blue little lake. The hike: The trail leads past the waterfall along the river up to the staining point. Over very high steps and rough paths across rocks and roots. Heads up: It’s not a loop, you have to come back the same way. My planning mistake: We walk the riverside stretch first, then on to the waterfall. And end up standing in line there for an hour to see it up close. Tip: Set off early and head straight down to the waterfall first. Only then do the hike to the Rio Celeste. Mosquito warning: By the way, there are lots of bite-happy mosquitoes here! Don’t forget the insect repellent. In return, you’ll spot small, well-camouflaged snakes (if a guide happens to point one out). In hilly, fresh Monteverde (highlands) In the Monteverde highlands at around 1,500 meters, it can be a good 10 degrees cooler than on the coast. Together with the stiff wind and frequent drizzle, it feels cooler still. A light rain jacket belongs in your daypack, and in the evening a light down jacket does good service. The dense fog gives the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve its unique mystical atmosphere Monteverde cloud forest The mystical cloud forest is one of the highlights of the entire trip. The cloud forest sits on the continental divide between North and South America. On just 26 square kilometers, over 2,500 plant species grow. The ferns are enormous, the trees grow impressively ultra-tall into the damp sky, mostly draped in old man’s beard lichen. Hikes: Three trail options are on offer. We pick the longest, the Continental Divide Trail, and pass through what feels like three different climate zones in two hours – cloud forest now dense, now sparse. Most of the time we’re on our own, and the trail is well signposted. Wildlife: Hummingbirds. Without a guide, we don’t spot any other animals… Practical details: Entry: USD 29 Booking: cloudforestmonteverde.com with a time-slot system Required: rain jacket and sturdy shoes Tip: start early – in the afternoon it gets foggier and busier Monteverde Cloud Forest: One of Costa Rica’s Highlights Night walk near Santa Elena With a guide you see more at night than on your own by day. The night walk is a guided night hike of about 1.5 to 2 hours. Your guide shines the flashlight into all the right corners. Without that trained eye you simply see nothing. At night the guide can’t see anything either, of course, but experience tells him where to point the light. Highlight: Scorpions fluoresce a glowing turquoise under UV light. And tarantulas let their curiosity run free when you poke around with a twig in front of the right little burrow. If you’re afraid of spiders and the dark, you’ll get over it here fast. Inevitably. Fascination wins! Scorpions fluoresce bright turquoise under ultraviolet light Conclusion What surprises me is how quiet the tropical rainforest of Costa Rica is, both by day and by night. Only rarely do we hear a howler monkey, an owl, or a woodpecker.Nor is it the case that the place teems with parrots or hummingbirds. You see wildlife only sporadically.Our favorites: I liked the mystical Monteverde cloud forest best. Katja found the loop hike across the lava fields of the Arenal the most impressive.We both found Manuel Antonio overrated. If you’re after wilderness, head to Monteverde. If you want a beach-and-jungle combination, then Manuel Antonio really is the right call after all.And if a gentleman in a vest approaches you there, trying to push a guide on you that you never booked: you booked online through SINAC beforehand and you don’t want a guide. They should let you through now! ## Is Costa Rica the Switzerland of Central America? Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/costa-rica-switzerland-of-central-america Is Costa Rica the Switzerland of Central America? Costa Rica is said to be the Switzerland of Central America. But why, exactly? I went looking for answers on the ground. Presumably what people mean by “Costa Rica – La Suiza centroamericana” is the lush green landscape, the relative prosperity, the neutrality, and the mountainous terrain. Landscape and Nature Mountains and Volcanoes The majestic Arenal volcanic cone is often shrouded in mystical clouds Costa Rica has gorgeous volcanoes, like Arenal and Tenorio.Switzerland has the majestic Matterhorn. Plus the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. Inimitable, of course. No comparison there.At the foot of its volcanoes, Costa Rica has a range of hot springs.Switzerland has the Therme Vals and Bad Ragaz, and many more.But I don’t think that’s where the comparison comes from either. Flora and Fauna Their striking yellow beaks make toucans unmistakable inhabitants of the rainforests Switzerland’s national critter is the cow. Without cows, our landscape would be nothing.Costa Rica has cows standing around too, but it’s the toucan that really stands as the country’s symbol.Sure, Swiss cows are far bigger than Costa Rica’s toucan, and they give more milk, but when it comes to the exotic and the colorful, the toucan is way out in front.So that’s not where the comparison comes from either.Switzerland’s national flower is the edelweiss.Costa Rica’s national flower is the Guaria Morada, a purple orchid.Both grow in the mountains, both are rare – but on sheer color, Costa Rica wins again.In both countries, all that rain keeps everything insanely green.In Costa Rica that produces no fewer than four different types of forest: tropical rainforest, cloud forest, tropical dry forest (where the trees shed their leaves in summer!) and mangrove forest.Switzerland’s four forest types – deciduous, coniferous, mixed and riparian – are, of course, no comparison.But come on – if the comparison came from the greenery, then Ireland or New Zealand would be known as Swiss lookalikes too, wouldn’t they?But they’re not. The prehistoric tree ferns can grow over 20 meters high Climate Switzerland: 4 seasons. Used to be. Thanks to global warming, winter increasingly feels like autumn or spring. Though just recently, at the very last minute, a meter of snow did still fall. Costa Rica: 2 seasons. Dry season in summer, rainy season in winter. Used to be. During our visit, it rains on us for days even in the dry season. When it rains in Costa Rica, power outages are par for the course. Which is why restaurants cook with gas “just to be safe.” Beyond the fact that both countries are green like crazy, the differences strike me as pretty substantial. Tropical rain shower with Arenal volcano in the background Food and Drink Dishes and Chefs We Swiss eat fondue, bratwurst with rösti, and we get cooked for by Andreas Caminada at Schloss Schauenstein or by Silvio Germann at the Mammertsberg.The Ticos eat corn, rice with beans, and their chefs cook in San José:RestaurantChef / ConceptWhat makes it specialSikwaPablo BonillaFirst Costa Rican restaurant on the “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants” list. Indigenous ingredients and techniques, reimagined.SilvestreSantiago Fernández BenedettoRestored 1890 villa in Barrio Amón. 7-course “Soul” tasting menu.El Taller de Billy SazónBilly SazónJust 10 seats. 12-course “Tradition” tasting menu.DOMA—Restored 1945 house in Barrio Escalante. Produce from Costa Rica’s volcanoes and mountains.AmanaSan Pellegrino Young Chef 2024 finalist7-course tasting menu (Thu-Sat). Local ingredients, global techniques.You can guess it: the comparison probably doesn’t come from the cuisine either. Intermediate courses one finer than the other Chocolate Swiss chocolate is world-famous, mainly thanks to brand ambassador Roger Federer. But it’s based on imported cacao beans. And Swiss cow’s milk, of course. Costa Rica’s tasty dark chocolate, high in cacao and locally produced, was news to me. Then again, I can’t name a single Costa Rican tennis player… Coffee Switzerland: top-tier coffee thanks to global imports, high-tech roasteries, well-trained baristas and Cimbali machines. Costa Rica: its own coffee beans, well-trained staff. Sometimes stupendously fine coffee, though sometimes a touch too bitter for me. No, the comparison can’t come from “coffee nation Switzerland” either. Don Juan is one of the most famous coffee plantations in the Arenal region Tourist Infrastructure Transport We Swiss have a thing for rails: railways, cog railways, trains like the “Glacier Express” or “Bernina Express,” cable cars, funiculars, lake steamers like the “Blümlisalp,” the A1, A2, A3 motorways and so on. Costa Rica has buses and trucks. And rental cars for tourists. And gravel roads, lots of gravel roads. Which is why transfers take forever: few motorways, narrow country lanes, and the moment a heavy truck with belching exhaust pipes wheezes its way up an incline, long columns of impatient SUV drivers pile up behind it. The comparison definitely doesn’t come from the transport. Impatient SUV driver stuck behind a cement mixer Beaches Switzerland has the beach at Yvonand on Lake Neuchâtel and the Mythenquai lido on Lake Zurich. Costa Rica has miles of sandy beaches on both the Pacific and the Atlantic. Landing spots for sea turtles included. The comparison clearly isn’t down to the beaches. Beach in Manuel Antonio National Park Society and Politics Size and Population In Costa Rica, big families with up to 20 children aren’t unusual. Probably because of the regular power outages. In Switzerland, three kids is enough to keep you perpetually on the brink of personal bankruptcy. And yet: on roughly the same land area, Switzerland counts nearly twice as many inhabitants. So math isn’t what connects us. Education Costa Rica has 64 universities. Seriously! That’s turned the country into an education hub for North and South America — IBM, Roche, Amazon and many more don’t settle here without good reason. Switzerland holds its own with ETH Zurich, EPFL and the University of St. Gallen, plus universities of applied sciences and a dual education system. Not bad either, and prized by plenty of companies. But for all the education on both sides, practically nobody knows how educated the other one is. Purchasing Power and Currency The restaurant prices read just like home: Costa Rica is as expensive as Switzerland. Glancing at the menu, a Swiss visitor isn’t surprised: “Ah, the prices are perfectly normal.” It only gets uncomfortable when the bill arrives, with those already “normally” high prices plus a service charge and value-added tax adding up to an extra 23%. Perceived Safety This four-legged friend keeps things in order at Tamarindo's popular surfer beach The most dangerous thing we Swiss can muster is the Langstrasse in Zurich. And by international standards that’s pretty harmless. In San José, you’re warned to be careful at every turn. Since the sights there don’t appeal to us anyway, we don’t put it to the test in person and head straight for the rainforest instead. There you’ll find all sorts of dangerous things – jaguars, snakes, spiders, caimans and green poison-dart frogs with red feet. But thanks to our guides, the safety situation always feels relaxed to us. On the safety front, the comparison isn’t too far off – at least as long as you steer clear of San José. Abolishing the Army Costa Rica abolished its army. In 1948. The reason is surprisingly pragmatic: to keep its own army from staging a coup and undermining democracy, the way it happened in numerous neighboring Central and South American countries. A tip for Switzerland’s anti-army campaigners: in Costa Rica, it was apparently the right argument that won the day. Not pacifism, but coup prevention. And here, all of a sudden, the comparison holds: two neutral small states that stay out of it. Except that Costa Rica is more consistent about it than we are. My Verdict The comparison limps badly – except on one point: neutrality. And there, Costa Rica is even more consistent than Switzerland. Otherwise? Two small countries with lots of greenery, hilly landscapes, drinking water straight from the tap and prohibitively expensive restaurants. That’s about the extent of the parallels. As a Swiss visitor, the trip is worth it all the same – precisely because everything is so different. Which is fitting, given that the way they speak down there is, well, all Spanish to me… Costa Rica Road Trip: 2.5-Week Pacific Coast Route with Arenal & Monteverde ## Papagayo Peninsula — Rest, Golf, and Luxury Without End Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/guanacaste-papagayo-peninsula-andaz-resort The Guanacaste Peninsula shows Costa Rica from its quieter, hotter side in the northwest: rural, dry, with kilometers of sandy beaches and little towns with names as charming as Brasilito.And then, off the coast of the Guanacaste Peninsula, there’s the Papagayo Peninsula: Here you’ll find just two hotels, a handful of villas, and yachts.And a golf course that’s absolutely spectacular! An iguana is basking on the rocks overlooking the marina Papagayo Peninsula — Rest, Golf, and Luxury Without End Compared to Costa Rica’s typically thick rainforest, the Papagayo Peninsula feels more manicured, drier, more serene. The roads are better, the distances shorter.And the clientele changes too: here you’ll find two of the country’s most exclusive resorts — the Four Seasons Peninsula Papagayo and the Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort.If you’re looking for adventure, this isn’t your place. You come here to arrive. Nestled between hills, bays, and the sea.And the howler monkeys. The warm light of the rising sun bathes the tropical pool area of the Andaz Peninsula Papagayo in golden colors Arriving and Breathing After adventures deep in Costa Rica’s interior, the luxurious Papagayo Peninsula feels like the complete opposite.The bays are secluded and largely undeveloped. The beaches are pristine and you won’t see a soul for miles.In the evening, you enjoy fine dishes from various regions on one of the Andaz Resort’s many restaurant terraces — and relish the spectacle of the howler monkeys!The animals put on an acrobatic show in the evenings: they leap fearlessly — or recklessly, depending on age and practice — from tree to tree.The thin branches barely support them, but they grip with their hands, feet, and long tail, hanging on somehow.And at night they stomp across the hotel roof like a herd of wild water buffalo run amok.And if you’re a deep sleeper, the howler monkeys will wake you no later than the crack of dawn.If you’ve never heard their call before: it sounds less like a monkey and more like a jet engine starting up!Here’s a recording of just one howler monkey right outside our balcony door, not the whole troop…My goodness! Hotel Tip: Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort Perched directly on the ocean, nestled into the hills of the Papagayo Peninsula, sits the Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort.The Andaz is a classic resort with several pools and restaurants, plenty of space, plenty of quiet. No place for hustle and bustle.You move between your room, the beach, the water, and the restaurant.If you walk along the ocean, you can reach all the way to the cocktail at the café by the marina. Not bad at all.In the evenings, you choose between different restaurants: Do you fancy tapas, Asian-influenced Costa Rican cuisine, or classic fish and seafood?Either way: The food is exquisite everywhere and the atmosphere relaxed, stylish, and always a little bit special.And the prices are correspondingly special, too. But once in a lifetime you should splurge on something like this ;-) The Andaz luxury resort is located directly on the Pacific coast of the Papagayo Peninsula The Andaz Peninsula Papagayo offers direct beach access with natural shade provided by native trees—some of which are poisonous! The elegantly designed hotel bar combines warm wood with modern design Four Seasons Golf Course with a View If you’re going to play golf in Costa Rica, it’s here!The Four Seasons Golf Club Costa Rica sits spectacularly above the Pacific and is considered one of the top courses.Fifteen of the 18 holes on Arnold Palmer’s signature course seduce you with exquisite ocean views.The championship layout is generously spacious: wide fairways, flowing contours, large greens.Sounds relaxing. It’s not: I lose 4 balls on the first two holes alone.After this terrible start, I finally get a grip on my rental clubs and swing like there’s no tomorrow!Trying to catch up to Katja after this epic blunder doesn’t quite work. She’s playing like a woman possessed. Even with rental clubs.My moment of glory comes a couple days later on Reserva Conchal: my driver’s absolutely on fire, and I score a birdie on the 180-meter par 3 (holed it in just 2 shots)! Walter made the shot. Despite all the distractions Conclusion to the Papagayo Peninsula Zip lines abound in Costa Rica, but not here. The Papagayo Peninsula is not a place for adventure.It’s the moment after.A place where you slow down, breathe, look back, and just let your soul wander.With a view of the sea. And the sound of howler monkeys in the background. ## Costa Rica’s Tamarindo & Las Baulas National Park Highlights Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/tamarindo-las-baulas-national-park Tamarindo is a touristy little coastal town in the northwest of Costa Rica.It teems with surfers, boards on their shoulders, and bars that open well before evening sets in.Later in the evening, the sun-worshipper community gathers on the beach for the daily sunset.From there it flows seamlessly into the beach clubs right on the sand.For those with a reservation, that is. By the second evening, we manage that too… A beach vendor offers his wares during the golden evening hours In Tamarindo you’ll find endless sandy beaches, golden hues in the sky, music drifting from somewhere, and that laid-back Pura Vida mood.Tamarindo is touristy. It knows it. And somehow that doesn’t bother anyone.We certainly love it: a fish dish in the half-shade of the Agua Salada restaurant is heavenly. And not the least bit oversalted, as the name might suggest.Just a few meters away lies the Las Baulas National Marine Park. Here things move at a gentler pace: quiet channels instead of waves. Mangroves instead of beach. Stillness instead of buzz.Unless, that is, you cross paths with a hungry crocodile. From our boat, we watch the kayakers with a certain amount of concern… Tamarindo: Energy, Beach and Pura Vida Tamarindo is the last stop on our road trip. And somehow that fits.After rainforest, cloud forest, volcano and national parks, Tamarindo brings long walks on the beach and relaxed evenings with good food.The sunset is mandatory. The warm evening light bathes the popular surfing beach in golden hues Las Baulas National Park: Mangrove Forest and Wildlife The Las Baulas National Marine Park is best known as a nesting site for leatherback turtles. Depending on the season (usually October to February), they come ashore at night on Playa Grande, right next to Tamarindo.It’s one of the largest leatherback nesting sites in Central America, right on the doorstep.By day, a mangrove tour along the park’s quiet channels is well worth it. We climb into the boat early in the morning.The water is calm, almost mirror-smooth. Our guide steers slowly through the narrow channels, dense mangroves on either side. At first, everything seems still.Giant iguanas lie on the sandbanks, as if placed there on purpose.Then you spot a motionless crocodile on the bank, as though it were stuffed.Until it does move after all, sinking into the water with a startling, ghostly slowness.I glance over at the kayakers, eyes wide, a little concerned… Crocodiles use the warm sandy beaches to thermoregulate their bodies When it does move, it moves quickly... The kayakers did not see the crocodile slide into the water Again and again the guide cuts the engine and waits until you spot for yourself what he saw long ago.Higher up in the branches hang howler monkeys — silent, for once. They’re enjoying Pura Vida too!And then, just before the tour ends: a raccoon with two young. It moves carefully along the branches, stopping again and again to look back at us. For a moment we watch each other. Neither of us moves.That’s the moment you carry home with you. Howler monkey hanging out in the mangrove forest. It doesn't get any better than this! The mangrove swamp is home to numerous raccoon families that find ideal living conditions here Practical Tips for the Baulas Mangrove Tour Start early in the morning: more wildlife, less heat, calmer water. Bring insect repellent — the mangroves are generously stocked with mosquitoes!The tour lasts about 2 hours and costs around USD 45 (as of March 2026). We booked through GetYourGuide.If you prefer something more active, book the kayak instead of the boat. But then again, those crocodiles… I’m not so sure? Warning signs remind people that crocodiles live in the waters of Tamarindo The golden hour transforms the excursion boats into a magical scene Tamarindo Restaurant Tips Tamarindo has a surprisingly good restaurant scene, from laid-back to upscale, almost all of it right on or near the beach.Tabú is our pick for sunset. Built right on the beach with bamboo and local natural materials, the restaurant feels like a cross between Bali and Costa Rica. Tapas, ceviche, fresh fish, and live bossa nova and jazz. Happy hour from 4:30 p.m.Ocho Beach Club belongs to the boutique hotel of the same name and has made a name for itself as a destination in its own right. International cuisine, creative and fresh. The setting among coconut palms and white sand is especially lovely in the evening.Agua Salada is the more local tip: a family-run spot just north of the center, where the Río Tamarindo meets the sea. Grilled whole snapper, Peruvian ceviche, grilled octopus. Just right for a relaxed lunch. Guests of the Tabu dine directly on the sandy beach under the imposing tropical tree Fresh seafood by the beach Relaxed beach dining with direct Pacific Ocean views makes Tamarindo a popular foodie destination Freshly grilled salmon with white wine under the fairy lights by the Pacific. A glass of wine costs from $15 Agua Salada restaurant: fresh fish under palm trees with a perfect Pacific view Conclusion: Tamarindo as the Final Act Tamarindo isn’t exactly THE highlight of our trip. But it’s the right way to end it.And the sunset here is more than just a beautiful moment at the close of the day. It’s the emblem of the whole journey. The sun sinks slowly behind the Pacific, the light turns golden, then orange, then gone.On the beach sit people from all over the world. Somewhere, music is playing. And more and more, we feel why Tamarindo belongs at the end of the trip.With a glass of wine on the terrace at Tabú, the sound of the waves in the background, and the knowledge that the flight home leaves tomorrow: this is how our Costa Rica road trip ends. With a smile, a little tiredness, and the quiet wish to stay just a few more days.Liberia International Airport, by the way, is only 1.5 hours away. It arrives faster than you’d like.The rental-car drop-off is a little before that; from there a shuttle takes you to the airport.Tamarindo is the last stop on our two-and-a-half-week Costa Rica road trip, from Uvita along the Pacific coast up to the Guanacaste coast. The golden hour bathes the Pacific beach with Costa Rica flag in warm light ## Nauyaca Waterfalls: Gravel, Jungle and a Natural Pool Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/nauyaca-waterfalls-costa-rica The Nauyaca Waterfalls are one of the most impressive spots in Costa Rica, just about 10 minutes north of Dominical.You can easily visit the falls as a day trip from Uvita (Marino Ballena National Park) or Manuel Antonio National Park. Or you work the visit into your road trip as a stopover.Getting there feels like a little adventure of its own. And that starts with the drive in.The last few kilometers run along a bumpy gravel road through dense jungle. No more asphalt, no signs, just red gravel dust and trees.This is exactly where you understand why a 4×4 isn’t a luxury in Costa Rica. It’s simply the right vehicle. The Upper Nauyaca Waterfall plunges down several rocky ledges from a height of about 40 meters The multi-tiered Nauyaca waterfalls form natural pools perfect for swimming and relaxing. Two Entrances and One Important Decision Before you even set off, you make a decision that shapes the whole day. There are two ways to reach the Nauyaca Waterfalls.The area is privately owned, and the two different entrances are run independently of each other.We took the official park entrance (Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park).In hindsight, it was the right call.The entrance sits a little farther out, but in return the park offers more infrastructure, with a small restaurant and restrooms, plus the decisive advantage: fewer tourists. The slightly longer approach pays off.The Don Lulo entrance is a bit more rustic, cheaper, more popular and accordingly more crowded.Tip: If you want fewer crowds, it’s worth driving the extra distance.Important: Good shoes are a must at both parks. The final stretch down to the falls can be slippery and demanding. Practical Info at a Glance Nauyaca Waterfall Nature Park Don Lulo Entrance Drive time 50 min. from Dominical 30 min. from Dominical Access Last km on gravel road, 4×4 recommended Paved road Parking free USD 5 per day Distance 3.5 km 2.7 km, but steeper Shuttle Available both ways Available both ways Facilities Restaurant, restrooms and changing rooms Restrooms and changing rooms Opening hours 7:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. 7:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Entrance fee USD 32 (walk down / trolley up) USD 10 (walking), USD 32 with shuttle (round trip) Upside Fewer people, better views of the falls Reachable without a 4×4, cheaper Website nauyacawaterfall.com nauyacawaterfallscostarica.com The two-tiered Nauyaca Falls are among Costa Rica's most spectacular natural wonders Upper or Lower – the Two Waterfalls Aren't the Same There isn’t one Nauyaca Waterfall. There are two. And they’re very different.The upper waterfall is big and powerful. It drops over a broad rock face into the depths. It’s an impressive sight, but offers no place to swim.Still, you absolutely have to see the upper waterfall!The lower waterfall is the real destination. It crashes down as a wide wall of water into a large natural pool. Plenty of visitors jump straight in, and after the hike through the humid heat you understand exactly why.Don’t forget: bring swimwear, a towel and plenty of drinking water. And if you have non-slip water shoes, pack those too! Hiking to the Nauyaca Waterfalls: Prettier Than Expected, Hotter Than Anticipated From the parking lot to the falls, you hike a little more than 3.5 kilometers (if you don’t take the shuttle).The trail is well maintained and the shade of the trees is welcome. And yet you underestimate the heat.The humid air, the steady incline, the red gravel. After a while it dawns on you: this is no walk in the park.Tip: Start early. Not because of the waterfalls, but because of the temperatures. In the morning the trail is still pleasant; by midday it turns into a test. The four-kilometer-long hiking trail winds through dense rainforest vegetation Katja on the hiking trail through dense tropical forest to one of Costa Rica's most beautiful waterfalls The steep descent leads down natural steps deep into the lush rainforest The trail to the Nauyaca Falls winds through dense rainforest The descent to the Nauyaca Falls leads down steep stone steps through dense tropical forest The trail to the Nauyaca Falls winds through dense tropical rainforest The Way Back: That's What the Shuttle Is For At the end you can spare yourself the climb back up and let the shuttle carry you up instead. That’s exactly what we did.And we were very glad we did.After the descent, the swim and the time spent at the waterfall, you simply have no desire (or energy) left for 4 kilometers uphill. So riding the shuttle back is a sensible decision. Take the shuttle back to the park entrance Once you've made it through, give Mom a call ;-) The Nauyaca Waterfalls make a great day trip from Uvita – the starting point of our Costa Rica road trip. ## Monteverde Cloud Forest: One of Costa Rica’s Highlights Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/monteverde-cloud-forest-costa-rica The rough road into the outdoor mecca of the Monteverde Cloud Forest gives you time to prepare.First you drive through sweltering villages where every house, however unremarkable, is barricaded behind several layers of iron grilles.Then the road grows ever curvier and narrower. The asphalt gives way to gravel, the gravel to dust.The temperature drops noticeably and you can actually see the moisture as tiny droplets hanging in the air. In the middle of summer.Now and then that even produces long, drawn-out rainbows. Out of nowhere.From that moment on, you know: things are different up here. In Monteverde, the humid cloud forests often produce spectacular rainbows Monteverde sits in the highlands, around the little town of Santa Elena: cooler air, wind in the treetops, a fine mist that never quite disappears and spins out rainbows without end.The Monteverde Cloud Forest is no classic jungle. More a quiet place that slowly draws you in.This mystical cloud forest lies at 1,500 meters (4,900 ft) and forms the continental divide between North and South America. Its peculiarities are why several endemic plant species grow here.The atmosphere is unique and mysterious: the ferns here are giant and the trees grow towering high into the damp sky, mostly draped in Old Man’s Beard lichen. This is a classic indicator of clean air and high humidity.For me, Monteverde is one of the highlights of the entire Costa Rica trip. The humid climate of the cloud forest creates ideal conditions for lush moss growth The Monteverde Cloud Forest is home to over 2500 plant species on just 26 square kilometers The prehistoric tree ferns can grow over 20 meters high Cloud Forest hike: watch, don't rush through The Monteverde Cloud Forest isn’t a place you simply «walk through». You follow the trail, sometimes narrow, sometimes a little wider. There’s only one anyway. Or really three: at the entrance you choose between 3 trails of different lengths.We go for the Continental Divide Trail, the longest of the three.Moss hangs everywhere from the trees. Mist drifts through the canopy. Hummingbirds flit from blossom to blossom. Surprisingly soft sounds come and go.Every stretch of forest – and there are many – feels different, sometimes dense and dark, sometimes open with a wide view.I keep stopping in wonder. Looking up, listening, waiting.For me, the hike through the cloud forest is an experience that unfolds slowly. Hours go by without our noticing.The trail is varied, with beautiful perspectives onto both sides of the continental divide, and just right for truly feeling the cloud forest.Except that, thanks to the thick mist, we see exactly nothing at the viewpoints… There is not much to see today at the viewpoint of the continental divide... There are only lots of tourists at the start of the hike. Soon you are alone Entrance to 3 trails of different lengths Admission to the Monteverde Cloud ForestTickets are available directly through the official website of the Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve.Admission costs USD 29.00 per person (as of March 2026). You pick a fixed time slot.Starting early pays off: fewer people, more silence, more peace for the animals. A rain jacket and sturdy shoes are a must.And note: the cloud forest is very damp, even when it isn’t raining. It’s also surprisingly cool, compared with the warm temperatures down at the entrance hut. Katja in misty Monteverde cloud forest Rainforest Night Walk: Katja forgets her fear Katja didn’t actually want to do the Night Walk through the rainforest: too dark, you can barely see anything even in daylight. Too many spiders and creepy-crawlies. Too little control over whatever you might run into.After a bit of persuading, we book it anyway. And within just a few minutes the mood flips.Flashlight in hand, we move slowly through the forest. The guide points out croaking frogs right beside the trail, all but invisible among the leaves.He coaxes a tarantula out of its burrow with a stick — calm and elegant, and bigger than expected. And then: a scorpion!The guide holds the UV light over it. And suddenly the arachnid lights up a surreal turquoise blue. In the middle of the darkness.Katja? First quiet. Then curious. And at some point completely hooked.¡Qué aventura! Scorpions fluoresce bright turquoise under ultraviolet light The blue-footed tarantula can be lured out of its hiding place We book the tour at the Kinkajou Reserve via GetYourGuide, including hotel pickup. Especially after a long day in the forest, that’s worth its weight in gold: no organizing, no driving in the dark (watch out for potholes!), just hop in and go.The groups are small and the tour lasts roughly 1.5 to 2 hours.At night you experience the forest far more intensely. Closer. Almost a little surreal.Tip: Definitely go with a guide. The best sightings happen when you stand still. And without a trained eye you simply see nothing. Or pitch black.Besides, I’d never have talked Katja into walking through the dark forest alone.And not myself, either. The wooden walkways lead safely through the dense cloud forest of Monteverde After dark, the cloud forest comes to life with nocturnal animals Getting there: the country road is part of the adventure We are about to be overtaken by a 40-tonner! The winding mountain road to Monteverde leads through the picturesque hilly landscape of Costa Rica The notorious gravel road to Monteverde is dusty but easy to drive on The winding route to Monteverde leads along unpaved mountain roads On the highway we get overtaken by a 40-ton truck that’s clearly lost its mind. Even though, like everyone else on the road, we’re already doing 30 km/h over the speed limit!But maybe that’s just normal here. That’s the impression we get sometimes. Speed cameras, at least, we never see.The last few kilometers before Santa Elena are bumpy: gravel roads, little comfort, a lot of dust.This approach makes one thing clear: Monteverde isn’t simply on the way to anywhere. You make a deliberate choice to drive here.A 4×4 here isn’t a luxury — it’s simply the vehicle you need.And plan plenty of time for the drive: the curves are tight, the going slow, especially when you’re stuck behind a camion (truck).Once you arrive in Santa Elena, you marvel at how many outdoor fanatics find their way out here. Shouldn’t the Ticos (Costa Ricans) then invest just a little more in the access roads?A little above Santa Elena, we spend two nights at the elegant Koora Hotel.Similar hotels in the same area are:Senda MonteverdeMonteverde Lodges & GardensOcotea Boutique Hotel Natural materials and sophisticated design create a harmonious connection to the lush surroundings at the Koora Hotel Verdict: Monteverde delivers plenty of small WOW moments I could have wandered through the cloud forest for ages: Katja forgetting her fear and suddenly utterly fascinated. A scorpion glowing turquoise.You leave Monteverde with a feeling that stays with you.And that’s exactly what makes this place one of the most memorable experiences of the entire trip.Monteverde is stage 4 of our Costa Rica road trip – from the Arenal Volcano up into the highlands of the cloud forest. ## Manuel Antonio National Park: Between Jungle and Dream Beach Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/manuel-antonio-national-park First impression of Manuel Antonio? Lots of bustle, lots of people, lots of guides, lots of expectation.Manuel Antonio National Park feels like a tightly scheduled nature experience.Just before the entrance to Manuel Antonio National Park, something happens that sets the tone for the whole visit.Out on the road, guides intercept you. Self-assured, loud, persuasive. Their message is unmistakable: you supposedly can’t get into the park without a guide.That isn’t actually true.But in that moment we let ourselves be intimidated – and book one of the pushy fellows.What follows? Walter and I see that differently. Manuel Antonio National Park: Arriving & Planning Before you even think about those guides, you should have a ticket, because Manuel Antonio National Park is one of Costa Rica’s most-visited nature reserves – and the number of visitors is strictly capped.Just showing up on a whim barely works. So I book our entry tickets in advance through the official SINAC platform (Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación).Tickets are sold exclusively there. Other websites are resellers and charge extra fees accordingly.Practical info at a glance:Park hours: 7:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.The park is closed on TuesdaysHotel base: the nearest town is Quepos, about 7 km (4 mi) away. We stay at the adults-only hotel Makanda by the SeaGoing (very) early in the morning pays off: fewer crowds, more pleasant temperatures, more animal activityNot long after, the crowds are huge; by midday everyone has already left again The entrance is through the visitor center. Also for tickets previously purchased online Guided nature tours at the start of the park With or Without a Guide? Our Take Back to the guides out on the road: we let ourselves be talked into it. What happens next is surprisingly good – and at the same time unnecessary.Sure, our guide spots several animals we’d never have seen on our own. A sloth high up in a tree, perfectly camouflaged. Small details like spiders or crabs that suddenly become visible.But at the same time we quickly notice: the park is so busy that you can easily take your cues from the groups standing around: where people are looking up, there’s usually something to see. Or, well, sometimes not … and you just ask what everyone else sees and you don’t. An upside of a guide: they bring a spotting scope and are practiced at finding wildlife Our tip:If you want maximum wildlife sightings and to learn something about the animals’ quirks: a guide is worth it, and you’re supporting local jobs. But book one in advance, not on the road out front (those guys want cash rather than credit-card payment).If you want to take it easy and go on your own: that works without a hitch too. Just follow the other visitors. Though how relaxed that really is, given the crowds…The “wild” guides do offer one advantage at least: they provide a guarded parking lot right around the corner from the park entrance.Adjoining the park there are sandy beaches and a short loop hike (about 1 hour) to the heavily forested headland of Cathedral Point. Here you’ll see more monkeys than earlier in the park, and the guides don’t come along. Here you’re more likely to be out in quiet nature. Usually only the guides discover the park's hidden animals In the Park: Watching Rather Than Hiking Manuel Antonio is not a hiking park. You’ll get through just fine in simple footwear.The paths are short, well built and quickly done. The watching is all about the canopy, the path’s edge, the shallow water.Not all that much happens.Again and again people stop, look up, point into the trees. Those are exactly your moments to spot something too. Usually it takes a few seconds before you make out the animal. Tourists on a boardwalk Walter on the boardwalk Animals Up Close – and Sometimes Too Close Capuchin monkeys are among the most frequently seen animals. And they’re every bit as cheeky as their reputation promises. They know what a backpack is and what all might be inside it.Even though: bringing food into the park is not permitted. But the animals don’t know that!So never leave your backpack unattended. The monkeys are faster and nimbler than you think, that’s for sure.Sloths you’ll see if you know where to look. Or if you have a guide along who knows. Because he’s probably already seen that same sloth the day before in the same spot…They hang motionless like a ball of fur in the upper branches and look like part of the tree. Capuchin monkeys are curious contemporaries and like to search unattended bags for food Cathedral Point: The Detour Is Worth It Anyone who only strolls through the park and then lies on the beach misses one of the most beautiful stretches.The loop hike to Cathedral Point (Punta Catedral) leads through dense tropical rainforest onto a peninsula between two beaches.The path is short but striking: moss-covered trees, views out to sea, quiet away from the main trails.For me, this is the real highlight of the park. The park's main beach perfectly combines white sand with lush rainforest This path leads through dense coastal rainforest to the beaches Wooden walkways lead gently through the dense green of the tropical rainforest to Cathedral Point The rugged coastline off Cathedral Point The Beaches: Jungle Meets the Pacific Fine sand, turquoise water and rainforest right behind it. You wade into the sea, turn around and see palms, lianas, jungle. A place that feels almost unreal.The two main beaches in the park – Playa Manuel Antonio and Playa Espadilla Sur – are gorgeous and surprisingly uncrowded.Tip: Take your time for the beaches. This very contrast is what makes it special. A perfect interplay of dense rainforest and Caribbean-style coastline Manuel Antonio National Park combines rainforest and beautiful Pacific beaches in the smallest of spaces Verdict: Is Manuel Antonio National Park Worth It? This is where our opinions diverge. And we think that deserves an honest answer.Walter leaves the park disappointed and advises against a visit.He had expected more: more wilderness, more untouched nature, more animals, less hubbub.The park is beautiful, no question. But the experience falls short of the expectations its grand name raises. Other Costa Rican national parks like the Monteverde cloud forest are far more appealing and less crowded.I (Katja) find the park lovely – precisely because of the beach and the loop hike to Cathedral Point.The combination of jungle trail and swimming beach is rare. And the cheeky but genuinely funny little capuchin monkeys won me over. The curious capuchin monkeys are one of the main attractions in Manuel Antonio National Park Manuel Antonio is well visited and clearly developed; you can’t get lost.If you’re in the park early (or only after the rush, from around 11 a.m.) and give yourself time for the beaches and Cathedral Point, the park shows you exactly what Costa Rica is famous for.Just: don’t expect lonely wilderness. Expect an easily accessible, honest nature experience – with rainforest, monkeys and the Pacific.This article is part of our Costa Rica road trip along the Pacific coast. Manuel Antonio, one of the smallest but most famous national parks in Costa Rica The main entrance around midday: nobody wants to go in in the heat ## Uvita & Marino Ballena National Park: Whales, the Fluke & the Sea Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/uvita-marino-ballena-national-park Uvita sits inside Marino Ballena National Park on the Pacific coast, about 3.5 hours from San José. It’s the first stop on our Costa Rica road trip.The park takes its name from its most famous formation: a sandbar that, at low tide, really does look like a giant whale tail fluke.At low tide, you can walk far out into the sea. Barefoot, on firm sand, water on both sides, nothing but the horizon ahead.And then, if you linger out on the sandbar long enough, the tide rolls back in. Not from one side — but from both at once!The sandbar gets flooded from both ends. We actually have to hustle to keep from wading back too deep.It gives the walk a little adrenaline rush — soft adventure, you could say ;-)The name Marino Ballena fits for more than just the shape. Depending on the season, humpback whales from either the Arctic or the Antarctic pass through here to give birth. Admission & opening hours: roughly USD 6–7, daily 7:00 AM–6:00 PM.Best time to visit: December to April (humpbacks from the Northern Hemisphere) and July to October (whales from the Antarctic).Tour price: about USD 70–90. Book early in high season! Tail fin of the Marino Ballena National Park Whale watching in Marino Ballena National Park We book our whale-watching tour through GetYourGuide — drinks and snacks included on board, roughly 2 to 3 hours.At first, not much happens. The boat rocks, our guide Joaquin tells us all kinds of things about these huge mammals and how they behave.We listen, hooked. Then suddenly: movement. The captain has spotted something and steers fast and purposefully southward.And there they are: two humpbacks surface again and again right next to the boat. Close enough that you can hear them blow when they break the surface. The excitement climbs.A brief instant — but a magical one!Heads up: you’ll get wet up to your thighs just getting on board. Dress accordingly and bring sandals. Tourists boarding the boat. The whale watching tour starts directly from Uvita beach Tourist boat near one of the most important whale migration corridors on the Pacific coast Hotel pick: Kurà Boutique Hotel – absolutely dreamy! We have to talk about the hotel. Because the Kurà Boutique Hotel is an absolute highlight high above Uvita! Just eight rooms, each with a generous terrace An airy restaurant by the infinity pool overlooking the Pacific Generous breakfast, excellent dinner Impossibly friendly staff Worry-free days in paradise Modern tropical architecture blends harmoniously with the lush rainforest landscape at Kura. The pool merges visually with the endless Pacific Ocean on the horizon Getting there, though, is something you have to earn.The access road winds very — really very — steeply and tightly up the hillside: bumpy dirt track, loose stones, potholes.On our first drive up, in a tight AND steep hairpin, an outsized truck suddenly looms in front of us.What is HE doing up here?!The lane is too narrow to pass. When Walter stops to scout for a wider spot, our 4×4 starts skidding backward down the road with its wheels locked!For a moment, our eyes go wide. My pulse spikes. My heart is in my throat.After a few meters of involuntary reverse, the SUV thankfully comes to a stop. What follows is a millimeter-precise crossing with plenty of frantic hand-waving and Walter’s delicate touch on the accelerator. And in the end the camion squeezes past us with hairs to spare.Afterward, Walter explains to me in his usual unflappable way how this kind of thing was daily bread back in his Army driver days.THAT was not the impression I just got!?! Also, that was 40 years ago, as I recall. And he doesn’t even own a car. But let’s leave it there…The next day, we settle on the more relaxed option — and without a peep of protest from Walter: park the car down in the village and let the hotel come pick us up. In their oversized Jeep.Heads up, though: even getting to that hotel parking lot, you’ll need a 4×4. Those «4×4 only!» signs along the road are not kidding. And they show up every 50 meters… Day trip: Nauyaca Waterfalls If you’re spending a few days in Uvita, plan one for the Nauyaca Waterfalls. They’re less than an hour away and rank among the most impressive falls in Costa Rica. The Upper Nauyaca Waterfall plunges down several rocky ledges from a height of about 40 meters The multi-tiered Nauyaca waterfalls form natural pools perfect for swimming and relaxing. There are two access points to the falls, one from each side. We recommend the farther one: less crowded, and it leads through a lovely botanical garden and dense rainforest.If it’s hot out, the hike can be a sweat-fest. In that case, hop on the shuttle back to the parking entrance. Easy! Verdict Marino Ballena is not a place for to-do lists. It’s a place for slow moments.For the walk out along the whale’s fluke. For the quiet on the beach after a long travel day. And for the instant a whale breaks the surface next to the boat and, for a beat, nothing else matters.A day by the hotel pool — or out on the generous terrace of a Kurà room — also vanishes in a flash. We found it pure paradise!Uvita & Marino Ballena is Stop 1 on our Costa Rica road trip — the first stop after landing in San José. Costa Rica Road Trip: 2.5-Week Pacific Coast Route with Arenal & Monteverde ## Costa Rica Road Trip: 2.5-Week Pacific Coast Route with Arenal & Monteverde Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/costa-rica-tour-tips-itinerary Costa Rica is famous for its incredibly high biodiversity packed into a small country. That makes it ideal for a road trip.You hike through tropical rainforest and dense cloud forest, drive past volcanic landscapes, spot exotic wildlife, marvel at waterfalls, and watch glorious sunsets over the Pacific.With 30 national parks, plus countless biological reserves and private conservation areas, you’ll have a hard time choosing what to fit in.For our 2.5-week Costa Rica road trip, we pick a route along the more tourist-developed Pacific coast. The quieter Caribbean side will have to wait for another time. Table of Contents: Costa Rica Travel Tips Sunset on Costa Rica's Pacific coast Costa Rica Road Trip at a Glance From the capital San José’s airport, we drive south as self-drivers to Uvita on the Pacific coast, and later on to Manuel Antonio National Park.From there, winding roads take us inland to the Arenal volcano and the mystical cloud forest of Monteverde.We wrap up the trip on the Guanacaste peninsula in the northwest, around Tamarindo.The return flight leaves from Liberia airport — a direct overnight flight back to Switzerland.Along the way, we meet sloths and capuchin monkeys, hike across lava fields, and on a nighttime rainforest walk find ourselves face-to-face with tarantulas and fluorescent scorpions!Oh, and depending on your jungle hotel, you’ll get an early-morning wake-up call from howler monkeys.Costa Rica is absolutely worth the trip — but that worth has a price tag. Restaurant bills and remote boutique hotels run seriously steep. Recommended Costa Rica Route in 6 Stops over 2.5 Weeks Here are our travel tips along the west coast, our favorite hotels, and the most beautiful highlights and nature experiences.The number of days per stop allows for both intense exploration and lazy days by the hotel pool.Days 1-3: Uvita & Marino Ballena National ParkDays 4-6: Manuel Antonio National Park plus a side trip to Nauyaca WaterfallDays 7-10: La Fortuna & Arenal VolcanoDays 11-13: Monteverde Cloud ForestDays 14-16: Papagayo PeninsulaDays 17-18: Tamarindo & Las Baulas National Park Spectacular suspension bridge in the Mistico Suspension Bridge Park. Highlights of the Costa Rica Road Trip Whale watching in UvitaSeeing humpback whales up close is one of the most memorable moments of the trip.Arenal 1968 Park hikeA loop trail across rough lava fields and through dense tropical rainforest. And again and again, that view of the perfectly cone-shaped Arenal volcano — when it isn’t shrouded in clouds, that is.Monteverde Cloud ForestA loop hike through mystical cloud forest: moss-covered trees and ever-shifting wisps of fog. In the middle of summer.Hanging bridges in Mistico ParkA short rainforest walk with river crossings on swaying suspension bridges.Sunsets in TamarindoEndless sandy beaches, surfers in the water, golden skies, and that easygoing «pura vida» mood. Sunset in Tamarindo until the sun goes down... Getting to Costa Rica Edelweiss Air flies direct from Zurich to San José. For a road trip, though, it pays off not to fly back out of the same airport.So we book an open-jaw ticket: in to San José, out of Liberia in Costa Rica’s northwest.That saves us several hours of driving back to the capital at the end of the trip. Edelweiss flies directly from Zurich to San José Rental car: book a 4x4 SUV — really! One thing becomes obvious in Costa Rica very quickly: a 4WD rental car is not a luxury.Or rather: it is a luxury, but the kind you absolutely treat yourself to.Many turnoffs from the national highways are gravel roads, pitted with potholes or steep. Sometimes ultra-steep!The most beautiful lodges and boutique hotels tend to sit somewhere up in the forested hills, reached by an access road that has you wondering if this can really be official.More than once we’re grateful for switchable 4WD. On some mountain roads, even our 4×4 SUV reaches its limits.No surprise the locals favor enormous pickup trucks with serious ground clearance and chunky tires.One tip from experience: self-drivers should schedule longer transfer days for a Sunday whenever possible.During the week, trucks, 18-wheelers, and cars share the narrow country roads.On Sundays, though, the locals are at the beach and the trucks are off the road — so the country roads, normally clogged, become surprisingly empty. Your 4x4 is regularly put to the test in Costa Rica: Sometimes in the water, sometimes on gravel, sometimes in the steep mountains 6 Stops for a Relaxed Costa Rica Road Trip To get to know Costa Rica’s west coast, we recommend the following 6 stops. https://maps.app.goo.gl/SRwpDj98UxExxw8r9 Stop 1: Uvita & Marino Ballena National Park From San José, you’re in Uvita in about 3.5 hours. You have two options: 230 kilometers, mostly hugging the Pacific along the Ruta Nacional Primera and then the Carretera Pacifica. Or the shorter 190 kilometers on the winding Carretera Interamericana.We opt for the more relaxed, longer route. Because you quickly learn: «carretera» doesn’t always translate to «highway» — in Costa Rica it can just as easily mean a plain old gravel road…The small town of Uvita feels pleasantly laid-back, set between green hills and the open ocean.All the details are in this blog post.https://maps.app.goo.gl/pNvddVRJfa4QE7M7A What to do: Marino Ballena National Park Tail fin of the Marino Ballena National Park The Marino Ballena National Park is named after its famous formation: a sandbar that, at low tide, really does look like a giant whale’s tail fluke.And the name fits for more than just the shape.Depending on the season, humpback whales from either the Arctic or the Antarctic pass through here to give birth.We book a whale-watching tour and actually get lucky: two whales keep surfacing right next to our boat.Afterward, we walk barefoot along the sandbar out into the sea. That only works at low tide, though — by afternoon, the whale’s fluke vanishes completely underwater.We even have to hurry to make it back to land with halfway-dry feet: the incoming tide hits the sandbar from both sides at once! Speedboat in Marino Ballena National Park Hotel pick: Kurà Boutique Hotel Our real motivation for the trip to Uvita is the hotel… kura boutique hotel pool mit spektakulärem blick auf den marino ballena nationalpark The Kurà Boutique Hotel is dreamy — to put it mildly: just eight rooms, each with a generous terrace, an airy restaurant by an infinity pool overlooking the Pacific, and impossibly friendly staff. Perfect, worry-free days in paradise!You do have to earn the arrival, though. The access road is a piece of work: it winds steeply — very steeply — up the hillside, partly over loose stones and potholes.On our first drive up, we have to suddenly yield in a tight AND steep hairpin to an outsized truck. What is HE doing up here?!The lane is too narrow to pass. When Walter stops on the steep section to scout for a wider spot, our 4×4 starts skidding back down with its wheels locked!For a moment, our eyes go wide and the pulse rate climbs notably higher than planned.At which point you finally understand why there’s a «4×4 only!» sign every 50 meters along the road. They mean it.After a few meters of «backward freefall», the SUV thankfully comes to a stop again.And after a few more maneuvers and a lot of frantic hand-waving, we squeeze past the giant camion with millimeters to spare.Afterward, Walter explains to me how this kind of thing was daily bread for him back in his Army driver days. THAT was not the impression I just got? Also, that was, what, 40 years ago, and he hasn’t owned a car since? But let’s leave it there…The next day, we settle on the more relaxed option — with zero protest from Walter: park the car down in the village and let the hotel come pick us up.Heads up, though: even getting to that parking lot, you’ll need a 4×4! Modern tropical architecture blends harmoniously with the lush rainforest landscape at Kura. The pool merges visually with the endless Pacific Ocean on the horizon Day trip: Nauyaca Waterfalls The Upper Nauyaca Waterfall plunges down several rocky ledges from a height of about 40 meters The Nauyaca Waterfalls are among the most spectacular in Costa Rica.Even the approach is a small adventure — the last few kilometers run along a bumpy gravel track through dense jungle.From the parking lot, you hike down through steep, thick rainforest to the upper waterfall. It’s big and powerful, but no place to swim.The lower waterfall pours as a broad wall of water into a large natural pool. Many visitors jump straight in. After the steep hike through tropical rainforest, it feels completely refreshing.Two access roads lead to the falls. We pick the more remote one — and sure enough, far fewer tourists.Want to dive deeper? Here’s the full article. The multi-tiered Nauyaca waterfalls form natural pools perfect for swimming and relaxing. Stop 2: Manuel Antonio National Park After a few relaxed days in Uvita, you continue along the Pacific coast to Manuel Antonio National Park.https://maps.app.goo.gl/b29bpEciyxdNNkRt5 Manuel Antonio National Park Manuel Antonio is one of Costa Rica’s best-known nature reserves — and you can tell.Just before the park entrance, we get intercepted on the road by guides. They tell us that without a guided tour, you can only get as far as the beach and you definitely won’t spot any wildlife.We let ourselves be talked into it and actually book a guide, even though every blog online insists you can perfectly well explore the park on your own.In hindsight: not a total waste. Our guide spots several animals we would have walked right past, including a sloth high up in a tree.On the other hand: there are sooo many tourists and other guides that you can pretty much just look where everyone else is staring to find an animal.Because, contrary to expectations, the place is not crawling with wildlife — you really do have to look hard and get lucky. Guides use telescopes to zoom in on the well-camouflaged animals of Manuel Antonio National Park Walter ends up disappointed by the park and tells anyone who’ll listen to skip it.I, on the other hand, thought the beach section and the loop hike out to Cathedral Point were still beautiful. These beaches are reputedly among the finest in Central America.On the beach, we see more monkeys than in the entire park. Selfie-takers — be especially careful with the capuchins!For the full report with all the details, head here. Capuchin monkeys are curious contemporaries and like to search unattended bags for food Hotel pick: Makanda by the Sea Modern tropical architecture meets a relaxed vacation atmosphere with spectacular views at Macanda by the Sea The design hotel Makanda by the Sea is an architecturally stylish property tucked into the jungle. Pathways and stairs link the buildings, with tropical vegetation running wild on all sides.One small catch about the location: the hotel sits on a shaded slope, so the sun doesn’t reach the pool area until midday.Our verdict: anyone who values design, quiet, and a great pool will be happy here.Anyone primarily after a beach vacation should look elsewhere. As the name “Makanda by the Sea” suggests, the hotel does have its own sandy beach, but the path down is long and very steep. The upside: if you’d rather not walk, the staff will shuttle you back and forth in an off-road 4×4 golf cart. Stop 3: La Fortuna & Arenal Volcano After a few days by the sea, we say goodbye to the Pacific coast — for now.The closer you get to La Fortuna, the more often the perfectly shaped Arenal volcano shows up on the horizon.https://maps.app.goo.gl/s5jrSSRU9XTS7Loc9 What to do: Four experiences you shouldn't miss One of the most beautiful hikes of the trip is in Arenal 1968 Park.The trail leads across cooled lava fields and through tropical rainforest.Every now and then the view to the volcano opens up. Well — when it isn’t wrapping itself in clouds, anyway.And volcano aside, the area around La Fortuna has plenty to offer.More on that in our full blog article. The majestic Arenal volcanic cone is often shrouded in mystical clouds Hotel pick: Nayara Gardens Natural materials such as bamboo and teak blend harmoniously with the tropical surroundings at Nayara Gardens The Nayara Gardens grounds feel more like a botanical garden than a hotel.Small paths wind between tropical plants to pools, restaurants, and private bungalows.Water trickles somewhere at every turn, and the soundtrack is birds and frogs.We treat ourselves to a multi-course tasting menu at the hotel restaurant Amor Loco — an evening we’ll be talking about for a long time… Dishes staged with dry ice create an unforgettable culinary spectacle at Amor Loco Stop 4: Santa Elena in the Monteverde Highlands From La Fortuna, the route takes you on into Santa Elena, the outdoor mecca up in the Monteverde highlands. The road there gets narrower and narrower, asphalt gives way to gravel more and more often, and at some point the first wisps of fog start drifting between the trees. https://maps.app.goo.gl/4ciGsGqq39tumbVs5 What to do: Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve The dense fog gives the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve its unique mystical atmosphere The Monteverde Cloud Forest is one of Costa Rica’s most fascinating ecosystems.The reserve is world-famous for its sheer biodiversity.Moss-covered trees, dense vegetation, darting hummingbirds, and ever-shifting fog give the forest a singular, magical atmosphere.For us, Monteverde is one of the highlights of the entire trip! Why? We’ve gathered all our impressions in this blog post. What to do: Night Walk The blue-footed tarantula can be lured out of its hiding place The Night Walk wasn’t originally part of the plan.Honestly, I was a little skeptical. Looking for crawling critters — at night, no less! — does not exactly rank among my favorite activities.In the end, we book the tour anyway.And as it turns out, this stroll becomes one of the most memorable experiences of the entire trip! Hotel pick: Koora Hotel Monteverde Natural materials and sophisticated design create a harmonious connection to the lush surroundings at the Koora Hotel High above Santa Elena, the elegant bungalows of the stylish Koora Hotel tuck themselves into the rainforest. Similar hotels in the same area: Senda Monteverde Monteverde Lodges & Gardens Ocotea Boutique Hotel Stop 5: Papagayo Peninsula From the cool cloud forests of Monteverde, you head back down toward the Pacific — out to the Papagayo Peninsula.https://maps.app.goo.gl/bdoTTzBt8ucW6Fve6 The Papagayo Peninsula in the northwest of Costa Rica feels a little like a quiet counterpoint to the rest of the country.After days of dense rainforest and bumpy roads, suddenly everything opens up: wide, dry, easy. Gentle hills replace jungle, the sea shimmers turquoise, and the coves feel almost secluded.This region is known for its gorgeous beaches, luxurious resorts, and picture-perfect sunsets.And yet the classic Costa Rica feeling stays intact — especially at night, when howler monkeys move through the trees and remind you that you’re still right in the middle of nature. Hotel pick: Andaz Papagayo The Andaz Papagayo sits right on the ocean — a classic resort with several pools and plenty of space to unwind.Only the howler monkeys, at night and early in the morning, remind us that we’re still right in the middle of nature.If you’ve never heard a howler monkey’s call: it sounds less like a monkey and more like a jet engine on final approach! The warm light of the rising sun bathes the tropical pool area of the Andaz Peninsula Papagayo in golden colors Stop 6: Tamarindo To wrap up the trip, we drive to the coastal town of Tamarindo.The place is lively, touristy, and especially popular with surfers. In the evening, crowds gather on the beach to watch the sunset.After the quiet of the Papagayo Peninsula, Tamarindo feels almost like a small surf metropolis. But that’s exactly what gives this last stop its charm.If you want more pura vida: here’s our full report.And from Tamarindo, it’s only another 1.5 hours to Liberia airport.https://maps.app.goo.gl/aoimExJtt3CG5xd39 Good to know for your Costa Rica trip Entry, language and currencyFor entry, you need a passport that’s still valid for 6 months after arrival.The national language in Costa Rica is Spanish. You’ll do just fine with English, though.The local currency is the Costa Rican Colon (CRC), but US dollars are accepted in many tourist areas.Best time to visitCosta Rica has a tropical climate year-round, so any time of year works.The high season (December – April) brings reliably sunny days. The green season (May – November) sees more rain, but rewards you with stunning natural phenomena. Temperatures vary by region and elevation.Plan for a 4×4 rentalMany lodges sit on unpaved, sometimes very steep dirt roads. Outside of San José, almost everyone drives a 4×4 SUV.Book national parks earlyPopular parks like Manuel Antonio cap daily visitor numbers. You can book tickets online in advance.Don’t underestimate drive timesTwisty country roads, trucks, and traffic jams can stretch your travel time. The country has toll highways, but very few of them in total.Gas stations are plentiful. We fill up three times for a combined CHF 150 (roughly $170).Traffic conditions are no problem for self-drivers.Mind the price levelCosta Rica is among the most expensive countries in Central America. On top of generally high prices, you add 13% VAT and 10% tips.So on top of already steep restaurant prices for food and drinks, almost a quarter is added in extra charges.If the service was great, you round the tip up a little. Our verdict on the Costa Rica road trip What surprised us most about Costa Rica was the sheer variety of landscapes and vegetation: within just a few hours, you go from Pacific beaches to volcanic terrain, or from tropical rainforest into a mystical cloud forest.That mix of biodiversity is exactly what makes traveling Costa Rica so special.Wishing you a safe road trip — pura vida!If you have more time on your hands: there’s also the Caribbean coast on the Atlantic side. Word is it’s much less developed for tourism. ## Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna: 4 Top Costa Rica Experiences Source: https://travelmemo.com/costa-rica/arenal-volcano-fortuna Rainforest, lush green, and a volcano that today watches quietly over it all: around La Fortuna, you experience the vegetation of Costa Rica at full intensity.The following four excursions show you the region from different angles — sometimes active, sometimes laid-back, but always memorable. Things to Do and Where to Stay in La Fortuna The majestic Arenal volcanic cone is often shrouded in mystical clouds Arenal 1968 Volcano: Hiking Between Lava and Rainforest The further you drive inland from the Pacific coast, the more often it appears on the horizon: Arenal Volcano. Perfectly cone-shaped. Almost too perfect.And then it disappears into the clouds again.For a long time, Arenal was one of the most active volcanoes in the country. Since its last eruption in 2010, however, it has been dormant.We lace up our shoes and dive into the volcano’s landscape at Arenal 1968 Park.The trails lead across cooled lava fields from the 1968 eruption and through dense tropical rainforest. The scenery shifts constantly — open and barren, then shaded and lush. It’s exactly this back-and-forth that makes the hike fascinating.And then there’s the volcano itself. It doesn’t appear on command. It wraps itself in clouds, vanishes, makes you wait. For Katja, this excursion is still one of the most memorable of the entire trip.Tickets: Book online in advance via arenal1968.com for around USD 28 (as of March 2026). Parking is available and the fee is included in the ticket.Plan for 2–3 hours, depending on which trail you choose: there are loop hikes of varying lengths. All of them swing back to the parking lot via the on-site restaurant.We recommend starting early for better visibility and fewer crowds.Sturdy footwear is a must because of the uneven lava fields. You don’t want to twist an ankle out here. Mistico Park Costa Rica: The Rainforest from Above Mistico Park offers a completely different kind of nature experience: 16 bridges through the rainforest, 6 of them suspension bridges. The highest sits 55 meters up, the longest stretches 97 meters.You’re no longer walking through the forest — you’re floating above it.The view of Arenal Volcano from up there is one of the more spectacular angles around La Fortuna. And on the bridges themselves, you quickly notice how quiet you become when there’s nothing but treetops below you — and the bridge sways a little.If you’re afraid of heights: the bridges have safety nets along the sides. The first few seconds take some courage, then you get used to it.Tickets: Book online via misticopark.com. Admission is USD 32 for the self-guided tour (as of March 2026).Start early, wear sturdy shoes (they won’t let you in without proper footwear), optionally book a guide for more background knowledge. Spectacular suspension bridge in the Mistico Suspension Bridge Park. The sturdy metal bridges guide Katja safely through the treetops of the cloud forest La Fortuna Waterfall: 500 Steps and a Plunge into Cold Water The La Fortuna Waterfall plunges 70 meters into an emerald-green pool. Famous, yes. But that takes nothing away from the dramatic scenery.The trail starts with a small announcement: around 500 steps down!The descent is steep but unspectacular — and the arrival at the foot of the waterfall is all the more overwhelming for it. The pool invites you in for a swim, and after the descent, the cool-off is absolutely earned.What you shouldn’t forget: those 500 steps go back up too. So pace your energy accordingly.Coming early pays off twice over: fewer people at the waterfall, and better chances of spotting toucans or monkeys in the surrounding rainforest.Tickets: Book online via cataratalafortuna.com, cost: USD 20 (as of March 2026). Bring non-slip shoes and your swimwear. Katja likes the artistic umbrella installation between the parking lot and the park entrance Influencer and her photographer in front of the 70-meter-high La Fortuna waterfall Don Juan Tour: Coffee, Chocolate, and a Lasting Impression Granted: a coffee and chocolate tour sounds like the classic tourist program.It isn’t, though. As a coffee and chocolate lover, this tour was a “must” for me.The Don Juan Tour in La Fortuna shows you in around two hours how coffee, chocolate, and sugarcane are made — from plant to finished product.Since this tour, I drink my coffee more consciously: did you know that coffee is grown in countries like Costa Rica, Brazil, or Vietnam, but is mostly consumed in Europe? Switzerland especially?And you make your own chocolate on this tour, too. Although getting your mixture to actually taste good — well, that takes some practice.We can warmly recommend this tour. It’s also ideal if it happens to rain. And along the way, you’ll spot plenty of wildlife on the loop trail — toucans, sometimes even a sloth.Bookable via GetYourGuide or directly with Don Juan.Cost: around USD 50 (as of March 2026). Where to Stay: Nayara Gardens Hotel La Fortuna has some lovely hotels. We treat ourselves to a stay at the Nayara Gardens.The property feels more like a botanical garden than a hotel.Small paths wind between tropical plants to pools, restaurants, and private bungalows. Water trickles everywhere, and you constantly hear birds or frogs.For dinner, we recommend the hotel restaurant Amor Loco and its multi-course tasting menu. It will stay with you for a long time…More great hotel picks in La Fortuna:Noah’s Forest by TifakaraAmor ArenalArenal Kioro Suites & Spa Many pools offer luxury in the midst of Costa Rica's lush vegetation Dishes staged with dry ice create an unforgettable culinary spectacle at Amor Loco Wrap-Up: La Fortuna Belongs on Every Costa Rica Itinerary La Fortuna packs more memorable experiences into a small area than any other stop on our road trip.Lava fields, suspension bridges, a waterfall with a natural pool, a coffee tour, and behind it all this volcano that doesn’t always show itself — but when it does, it’s unforgettable.If you’ve got four days in La Fortuna, you don’t need to wonder what to do with them. The harder question is what to leave out.La Fortuna itself is functional: a small town that knows tourists aren’t here for it, but for everything that happens around it.La Fortuna is stage 3 of our Costa Rica road trip — between the Pacific coast and the cloud forest of Monteverde. Typical street scene during the rainy season in Costa Rica Amidst tropical vegetation, the sign points the way to Costa Rica's famous landmark In Costa Rica you always park backwards: in case the volcano erupts and you have to drive off quickly... ## Autumn in Piedmont – Alba, La Morra and the Langhe Hills Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/piedmont-langhe-commendable-restaurants Autumn in Piedmont is something else entirely.When the rolling hills of the Langhe turn to gold and deep red and the grape harvest is in full swing, the region unleashes its full magic.Instead of hustle, there’s an unhurried calm — carried by the scent of mushrooms and grapes.What an atmosphere! Exactly as Walter and I imagined it. A long weekend takes us to La Morra, where we settle into the charming Boutique Hotel Relais Le Rocche for a little escape (link to photos on Booking — our own photos at the end of this article).From here, the region is yours to explore: idyllic villages, famous wineries, markets — and a remarkable concentration of outstanding restaurants. Autumn in Piedmont: The Best Time to Explore the Langhe Region The Italian Langhe region around La Morra, Barolo, Novello and Verduno is well known among wine lovers. In the hills from La Morra to Verduno, Piedmont draws not just connoisseurs with its Barbaresco, Nebbiolo and Barolo grapes.In autumn, during the harvest season, the region in northwestern Italy shows its most intense side: the vineyards glow in warm colors, soft morning fog blankets the ridgelines, and everywhere there’s a sense of busy yet unhurried activity.An absolute must is a visit to the traditional market of Alba — the epicenter of the famous white truffle region. Between local producers, truffle dealers, pastificio stalls and Piedmontese specialties, I could easily spend half a day tasting my way through.Perfect for feeling the culinary soul of the region — and building an appetite for the next restaurant visit… If you experience Piedmont during the grape harvest, you’ll quickly feel what draws so many visitors here.This mix of breathtaking landscape, picturesque villages, culinary highlights and authentic tranquility is one of a kind. Anyone who loves good food, appreciates wine, or simply wants to spend a few days in a stunning landscape will fall for this region in autumn — instantly. A Culinary Autumn in Piedmont – Our Restaurant Picks Piedmont is paradise for foodies like us. ;-)Traditional recipes, top-quality produce straight from the region, and a cuisine that puts honest flavor first — no frills.We visited four restaurants that we wholeheartedly recommend: Ristorante Borgo Sant'Anna – Near Monforte d'Alba In a stunning setting above the Langhe hills, the elegant Borgo Sant’Anna near Monforte d’Alba serves modern Piedmontese cuisine — no fuss, but plenty of finesse.Beautifully plated dishes, wonderful aromas, and a refined atmosphere that perfectly matches the unhurried pace of Piedmont. Restaurant Ca' del Rei – Verduno A cozy spot with unexpected moments: we actually run into Italian rapper J-Ax in Verduno — totally relaxed, having dinner with family and friends. On the culinary side, Ca’ del Rei delivers with authentic dishes and warm, heartfelt hospitality. Ideal if you’re after that family-style Piedmont feeling. Ristorante Massimo Camia – Novello A classic in the Novello area — and for very good reason. Ristorante Massimo Camia offers an elegant, clear-lined cuisine that marries traditional flavors with modern ambition. Perfect for a special evening where pleasure and atmosphere go hand in hand. Ristorante La Sbornia – Verduno La Sbornia is a little gem for lovers of traditional Piedmontese cuisine — and for anyone with an eye for stylish design!Alongside the flavorful dishes by chef Carmela Straniero, it’s the interior that steals the show. Where to Stay Near La Morra There are several accommodation options around La Morra. Our favorite and top hotel pick is the Boutique Hotel Relais Le Rocche, where you can truly unwind. The garden: a green oasis nestled among the hills, perfect for reading, relaxing, or simply soaking in the view. The view over the Langhe: Wide, peaceful, and quintessentially Piedmontese — a panorama you won’t forget anytime soon. Breakfast: from fresh local products to lovingly prepared bites — the kind of morning start you wish for. The hospitality: warm, personal, and unobtrusive. Exactly the kind of service that makes a boutique hotel special. If you’re looking for a quiet, stylish, and genuinely authentic home base in Piedmont, this hotel is an excellent choice. Wishing you a safe and delicious journey! ## The Daredevils of the Bosphorus – Taking a Taxi in Istanbul Source: https://travelmemo.com/turkey/istanbul-taking-taxi By the time I land at Istanbul Atatürk Airport, it’s already 10 p.m. So I hail a taxi into the pitch-black night. I wouldn’t regret it… At this hour, I’m not about to wrestle with the subway in a city I don’t know, so I look for a taksi. Boldly, I ask the drug-sniffing dog whether you can take any taxi here or whether some of them are the dodgy kind you’d rather avoid? His “I don’t know” doesn’t exactly help, but since everyone’s waiting for the orange-yellow crates and there doesn’t seem to be any other color, I grab one of these contraptions too. The driver, an older gentleman, doesn’t speak English, but he does know roughly three words of German. “Ein bisschen” (a little) accounts for two of them. Well, with a bit of fumbling on the smartphone, some Google Maps gesticulating, and a phone number, he gets us on our way. And HOW! Istanbul appears to be a city where traffic signs and possibly even traffic rules exist — but they obviously don’t apply to taxis. The older gentleman only knows one throttle setting: floored. He effortlessly leaves everything behind, regardless of rank or horsepower. On the way into the city, he has to let a younger colleague overtake him exactly once. And one other maniac. Mostly on the left — but on the right when necessary — he rockets along the Bosphorus through the Istanbul night in our boxy orange speedster, as if there were no tomorrow! My brand-new tablet with NVIDIA Tegra 3 quad-core, Jelly Bean 4.2, and its Google Maps are struggling to keep up with the older gentleman’s position. Luckily, I don’t have the speedometer in my line of sight. It’s enough to visually sort out the cars crossing in front of us like in Formula 1. The older gentleman is not the SLIGHTEST bit fazed by any of this, and when his nose requires attention, he simply weaves one-handed through the wall of metal. That he’s capable of this, he’d already demonstrated while making a phone call on the highway… Shaken and stirred, I arrived at the hotel surprisingly quickly. Taxi #2: Younger and (even) faster? Taksi driver number 2 from the following evening is younger than the older gentleman, and I’m bracing myself accordingly for my next hellride. I believe he speaks even less English than his colleague from the night before. On the other hand, I can now produce my destination “Ortaköy” from memory. Though probably not entirely accent-free, so he lets our Turkish conversation rest at that. Anyway. Let’s GO! In the narrow old-town streets, he demonstratively lays down rubber pulling away, just to announce the tariff. It only takes a few turns into the dense evening traffic, though, before the momentum of this taxi ride grinds to a halt. But the driver knows ALL the traffic-light tricks the good Lord hasn’t forbidden: When a light threatens to turn red, he’ll — zack — swing left around the traffic island, or he’ll fake a right turn, only to merge back in further ahead and act like he came from the right all along. Whenever traffic even remotely allows it, he prefers full speed right down the middle of the solid white line. At the last moment, he decides whether to go left — no, this time zack right around. And once again: correct decision! I believe the right-hand maneuver saved an estimated 30 hundredths of a second. Much appreciated. Only, somewhere the momentum faded and eventually came to a complete standstill. So he lights up a cigarette instead. EXCUSE ME?! Correct. A cigarette. I couldn’t make out the brand, unfortunately. But in all fairness, I have to admit he’s being very considerate about it: the cigarette always hangs out the window, and to exhale he leans so far out that the driver’s seat is practically unoccupied at this point. So that’s not a problem either… And so, in the staccato of two-lane traffic, he still gets me safely to my hotel. And surprises me with a “Good bye”! At least… #3 — Morning edition: This time with a little address note! I think I’ve mentioned it: English isn’t exactly the strongest suit of Istanbul’s taxi drivers — their focus is clearly on the gas pedal. Thoughtful as they are at my hotel, they give me a slip of paper with the address of my next destination. Because honestly, I don’t think Taksi Driver Number 3 even knows the English starter word “hello” anymore… He too has to bow to the overwhelming traffic, but still lets his driving class shine through from time to time: for instance, when the big, rusty Otobüsü next to us suddenly swerves into our lane out of nowhere. With a small evasive maneuver — but no horn — and a stoic closing of the eyes (!), this situation too is handled. The real heart-stopper comes, though, when he suddenly cracks the window open and the full blast of street noise floods the taksi… Good grief! And slightly bewildered once more, I peer from the back seat as he ambush-brakes with the handbrake and storms into a McDonald’s… The McDonald’s is mercifully still closed, so the ride can resume quickly. When he then asks every motorcyclist something out the window and navigates rather erratically through the streets, I deduce he’s asking for directions. He did have the address on that slip of paper. But no GPS… Eventually, he gives up in a one-way street (we’re the only ones attempting to drive in the opposite direction) and signals me to walk the last 200 meters. No problem. For the next appointment, I take the tram. But barely experience anything worth noting… With #4 back to the airport — oh boy… Fourth of four taxi rides: end of the trilogy. Since I already know the tram and the lira in my pocket is just enough for one last taxi ride, I treat myself to the mother of all hellrides one more time. This time, the daring Ferodun gets his turn. By now I have a fair idea of what to expect, so I at least want to know their name first. Daredevil: Driver Ferodun (right) and colleague — he’s about to “fly” me to the airport As I already suspect, his slightly advanced age doesn’t slow this lead-foot down one bit. The road to the airport is clearly his racetrack: traffic is dense but flowing, with enough space between cars — half a meter, mind you, not several seconds like in Formula 1. This allows the guys to change lanes twice while mere mortals blink once. Or to put it very slowly: your sense of balance tells you during the blink that the taxi must have moved sideways. But when you open your eyes, you find yourself — confusingly — still in the same lane… That the gyroscopes in tablet and smartphone survive such maneuvers unscathed is actually a small miracle of engineering. And that our senses cope with it, too, is equally astonishing, because to my knowledge, cave dwellers didn’t have to withstand such lateral forces. But anyway, the acceleration in these yellow flying crates is quite remarkable. You’d never guess it watching them idle in traffic. That the road is littered with signs for the Elektronik Denetleme Sistemi (electronic slow down system) doesn’t seem to interest a single soul here: not the civilians, not the taxi drivers, not the Otobüsü, not the flying crates. And none of these daredevils ever wears a seatbelt. That would probably be a sign of fear, and fear is something you must NEVER show, because in Istanbul the law of the jungle clearly applies: cars first, pedestrians second. Bicycles? I didn’t spot a single one. But even here, with Ferodun as with his colleagues, you feel safe at all times despite the insane acceleration — and even have the leisure to scribble notes about the last turn on your tablet. Thanks for the action, guys — görüşürüz! And finally, for all those who now have taxi anxiety on top of their fear of flying: my descriptions may be ever so slightly exaggerated… I’ll gladly hop back in anytime :-) But there are other voices… For the love of God… If you ever get lost or need urgently to get somewhere in #Istanbul, NEVER ever take a taxi. You’ll LOSE YOUR MIND. — Arie Amaya-Akkermans (@Dilmunite) April 23, 2013 And now there are English courses too: New courses to teach English to taxi drivers in #Istanbul http://t.co/V85WGCxt — Hürriyet Daily News (@HDNER) January 16, 2013 ## Pilatus Golden Round Trip – A perfect excursion from Lucerne Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/pilatus-golden-round-trip-excursion-from-lucerne Pilatus is Lucerne's local mountain and one of the most popular destinations in Central Switzerland.The legendary Pilatus Golden Round Trip had been on our bucket list for a long time.Together with our sisters Claudia and Manu, Walter and I set off on this trip: combining a boat, cogwheel railway, panoramic gondola, and cable car, the round trip connects several highlights in a single day trip. ## Lofoten travel tips: Rainbows, stockfish, and steep mountains Source: https://travelmemo.com/norway/lofoten-travel-tips The Lofoten Islands are a Norwegian archipelago north of the Arctic Circle. Here, dramatic mountain peaks rise directly out of the sea.Colorful fishermen’s huts stand on stilts in idyllic harbors, and the wind and weather are so changeable that you can sometimes experience (almost) all four seasons in an hour. ## Hike to the Morteratsch Glacier – glacier caves as a highlight of the Engadin Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/morteratsch-glacier-winter-hike The Engadin is known for its breathtaking scenery, impressive glaciers, and countless outdoor activities.One particularly fascinating tour is the winter hike from Morteratsch to the glacier tongue – a unique experience that offers spectacular insights into the alpine world.Even more impressive are the glacier caves that form as the glacier retreats. It is best to explore the caves as part of a guided tour, as some of the entrances and exits are dangerous. Travel memo Hiking tip:Winter hike near Pontresina: from Morteratsch station to the tongue of the Morteratsch Glacier. Distance: 6.5 kmDuration: approx. 2 hoursAscent/descent: 150 mStarting point: Morteratsch railway station (1,896 m above sea level)End point: Morteratsch glacier tongue (approx. 2,050 m above sea level)Difficulty/fitness level: moderate, good footwear requiredGetting there: By public transport or car to Morteratsch railway station (paid parking available)Best season: December to March Lower entrance to the Morteratsch glacier cave Winter hikers on the ascent to the Morteratsch Glacier Morteratsch Glacier Cave Tour – a winter adventure with wow factor The glacier caves of the Morteratsch Glacier are an absolute highlight, forming anew depending on weather conditions.These fascinating ice caves are created by meltwater, which hollows out the glacier from the inside, creating spectacular ice formations in beautiful shades of blue.Glacier caves – a transient natural phenomenonAs fascinating as the glacier caves are, they are a visible sign of climate change. They are formed when the glacier continues to retreat and the meltwater forms new cavities under the ice.This phenomenon can be observed not only on the Morteratsch Glacier, but also on other glaciers in Switzerland.It is impossible to predict when and where the next accessible glacier cave will form. At Morteratsch, mountain guides had to wait over two years before another stable cave became accessible. This makes visiting such a natural wonder all the more special – because it is uncertain how long it will remain. If you want to visit the glacier caves, you should definitely join a guided tour – not only for safety reasons, but also to enjoy this natural phenomenon to the fullest. The mountain guides will tell you lots of fascinating facts about the dynamics of a glacier and how such caves are formed. On our own, we would probably not have found all of the caves. Important information: Caution! Due to the risk of collapse and the constantly changing ice structures, we recommend that you only visit the glacier caves on a guided tour. The Pontresina Mountaineering School offers such tours. You can find all the information on their website. Safety equipment: The tours are led by experienced mountain guides who provide the necessary equipment (helmet and crampons, which are "ice cleats" that go over your winter hiking boots). Best time: The ice caves are most stable in winter, as the cold temperatures cause the ice to flow less quickly. Nevertheless, their structure can change at any time! Particular caution is advised at the entrances and exits, especially in strong sunlight. Danger of collapse at the southern exit of one of the glacier caves A guided tour of these natural wonders at the foot of Piz Palü and Piz Bernina is a unique experience. The deep blue ice, the glittering walls, and the magical light shining through the ice create a breathtaking natural spectacle.But even without the ice, a trip to this fascinating winter landscape is well worth it – so wrap up warm and let's go! Katja on the way to the Morteratsch glacier caves The guided hike to the glacier caves starts at 9 a.m. at Morteratsch train station. You will be back at around 1 p.m. and can refuel at the restaurant of the adjacent Hotel Morteratsch. ## Istrian Gourmet Experiences: 3 Stellar Restaurants + Our Wishlist for Next Time Source: https://travelmemo.com/croatia/istria-gourmet-restaurants Istria has quietly become Croatia’s culinary powerhouse. Here are four must-visit restaurants, plus more for your wishlist. ## What to Do Around Trieste: From Fairy-Tale Castles to Spectacular Caves, and Slovenia’s Capital Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/what-to-do-around-trieste-castle-cave-slovenia Discover the best day trips from Trieste: explore Miramare Castle, Postojna Caves, charming Muggia, Ljubljana and Venice – all within 2 hours drive. ## What to Do in Trieste: Explore Italy’s Coffee Capital One Cup at a Time Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/trieste-what-to-do-in-italys-coffee-capital A city where Habsburg elegance meets Mediterranean charm, Trieste offers a unique blend of cultural influences that set it apart from other Italian destinations. ## Madeira, the Island of Flowers: 19 Tips for Activities and Attractions. Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/madeira/madeira-19-tips-activities-attractions Madeira is a paradise for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Located in the Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of Africa, the Portuguese island impresses with its lush vegetation, rugged rock formations, and jagged volcanic landscapes. The flower island of Madeira Madeira is often referred to as the flower island because of its year-round splendor of blossoms. The climate here is mild all year round. Miradouro Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela The island is just 57 km long and 22 km wide. But it is bursting with beauty: lush green valleys, deep gorges, bizarre rock formations, charming coastlines, Euca­lyptus­forests and much more make the island a delightful holiday­destination. Waterfall on the north coast Here I reveal our 19 best tips and highlights of what you can do in Madeira. It’s best to book a rental car and set off on your own. There is practically no way to get lost and the traffic is quite civilized. Only the car­train­on­journeys are criminally short… We start our “rental car round trip” from Funchal and take you clockwise along the island coast: Funchal – the capital of Madeira Hotel rooftop pool of the Barceló Funchal Oldtown The colorful and lively port city in the south of Madeira is the beating heart of the island. More than half of the island’s inhabitants live here. The city offers a mix of history, culture, and vibrant city life. If you are traveling to Funchal, you should take 2-3 days to stroll through the different districts of the city. Restaurant terrace of the Barceló Hotel in Funchal You should explore the following sights: Old town of Funchal Funchal has many inviting districts and alleyways. We particularly liked the Rua de Santa Maria with its doors decorated with street art and the many small restaurants and bars, although it is very touristy. Painted doors of the Rua de Santa Maria Adjacent to the Mercado dos Lavradores, the touristic Rua de Santa Maria begins: it is famous for the painted doors of the many restaurants and stores. Mercado dos Lavradores Watch the early morning hustle and bustle in the colorful market hall. In addition to traditional handicraft products, you will also find fresh fish, vegetables and exotic fruits. With the Teleferico (cable­line over Funchal) to Monte The cable car (Teleferico do Funchal) takes you from the old town of Funchal to the Monte. The ride takes around 15-20 minutes and offers great views of the city’s steep slopes and the bay Right next to the cable car station is the Tropical Garden of Funchal with numerous exotic plants. Still haven’t had enough of plants? Then head to the botanical garden! Botanical Garden The island’s Botanical Gardens (Jardins Botânicos da Madeira) are located high above Madeira, in the “Monte” district. Here you will find over 2,000 exotic plant­species! To get to the Botanical Gardens, take the cable car (Teleferico) from the bus station in Funchal to the Monte district and from there another cable car to the gardens. Alternatively, you can go up by bus (lines 29, 30 and 31) or by car (limited parking options are available on site). Caravel “Santa Maria” of Christopher Columbus The famous ship “Santa Maria” is moored in the harbor. Or at least a replica of the flagship, as the original was wrecked on a reef off the coast of the Dominican Republic on Christmas Eve 1492. With such a caravel and the two sister ships Niña and Pinta, Christopher Columbus discovered America. Santa Maria of Christopher Columbus in the port of Funchal Other attractions Cristiano Ronaldo CR7 Museum Design Center Nini Andrade Silva with stylish lounge and elegant restaurant Restaurant of the Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva Recommended hotels: Barceló or Castanheiro In the city center on a lively square is the elegant Hotel Barceló Funchal Oldtown. A few steps above the city center you reside in a quiet side street in the stylish Boutique Hotel Castanheiro. Fishing village Baía de Câmara de Lobos View of the fishing village Ba’ia de Câmara de Lobos The small village of Câmara de Lobos is located just a few kilometers west of Funchal. It is the oldest fishing village on the island. During the day, you will see many small colorful fishing boats in the harbor, which go out at night to catch the local “peixe espada preto”. Skywalk Cabo Girão viewing platform Popular with tourists: the Cabo Girão Skywalk Near the village of Câmara de Lobos, the viewing platform towers over the 580-metre-high cliff of Cabo Girão. The Cabo Girão Skywalk is one of Madeira’s most popular sights. The glass floor of the viewing platform provides a thrill or two – and a spectacular view of the gardens, the sea, and the capital Funchal from below. Admission or a visit to the plateau costs €1 per person (as of June 2023). It’s worth it for the beautiful panoramic view, especially as you conveniently pay at a vending machine. Cais da Ponta do Sol Picturesque Cais da Ponta do Sol The small village of Ponta do Sol is located on the south coast of the island The stone pier, which was built on the coast of Madeira in the mid-19th century, connects the mainland with a small, windy rocky island. Take a wind stopper with you to be on the safe side: Your hairstyle won’t withstand the wind despite the 3-weather taffeta spray ;-) Bridge with a view Calhau Beach Club – Saccharum Resort & Spa The Calhau Beach Club is part of the Saccharum Resort on the beach promenade of Calhau. In this noble beach­restau­rant you meet in a stylish and relaxed atmosphere and sip delicious drinks and enjoy fresh snacks. Very stylish! Piscinas Naturais (nature­swimming­pools) in Porto Moniz Natural swimming pools of Porto Moniz Another highlight awaits you at the north-western tip of the island: the Piscinas Naturais – natural swimming pools that have formed over thousands of years from black lava rock on the coast. A dip in these Piscinas Naturais with a view of the open sea is a special experience. Child and cone in the natural swimming pool Miradouro Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela – spectacular rock needle in the sea Ilheus da Rib One of the most fascinating photo subjects on the island can be found on the beach of the small village of Ribeira da Janela in the north of the island. The rock formation is reminiscent of a needle sticking out of the sea into the sky – or an index finger. Depending on the time of day, you may come across divers emerging from the sea with ink fish on their diving harnesses… Diver with octopus in front of the Ilheus da Rib Ilheus da Rib The caves of São Vicente São Vicente is located on the north coast of the island. It is best known for its caves, which were formed more than 890,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. However, the caves are currently closed due to maintenance work and are expected to be accessible again in 2024. But the garden and the Volcano Center are open to the public, so you can learn about the history of volcanoes and lava caves in Madeira. “Casas Tipicas” – the traditional houses in Santana In the small village of Santana on the north coast of Madeira, you can learn all about the island’s culture and customs. Visit the characteristic, traditional houses with their thatched roofs, blue window frames and red shutters. Typical traditional houses of Madeira East cape Ponta de São Lourenço The Ponta de São Lourenço nature reserve is located in the easternmost tip of Madeira. You can see the bizarrely shaped rocks along the coast as soon as you land on Madeira. Whether hiking (see next chapter) or simply driving to one of the many viewpoints: It’s worth it! Edelweiss on approach to Funchal Hiking in Madeira Viewing platform Miradouro do Ninho da Manta Madeira is known as a hiker’s paradise. Whether you are an experienced or casual hiker, the flower island has something for everyone. For example, the hikes along the levadas (irrigation channels) are relatively easy to master, while difficult alpine hiking routes await you in the higher mountain regions. One of the most popular levada hikes is the “Levada do 25 Fontes” – a hiking­trail for waterfall lovers! The coastal­hike to Ponta de São Lourenço on the eastern cape of Madeira is fantastically beautiful and recommended. The absolute hiking highlight is the tour from Pico do Arieiro to the 1862-metre-high mountain Pico Ruivo. You can find details on these three hiking suggestions in our separate hiking tip. Hiking in Madeira: Discover the breathtaking beauty of the flower island Madeira is a true paradise for hiking enthusiasts. The Portuguese island offers spectacular landscapes with cliffs, picturesque coastal paths, and breathtaking viewpoints. Alex, Katja, and Gabi on one of the many viewpoints Biking in Madeira Madeira offers the right challenge for every biker with a range of well-developed trails. Here are Alex’s tips for the best tours with different levels of difficulty Alex with the rented Ebike on Levada-Tour Playing golf in Madeira Hole 18 of Palheiro Golf with a panoramic view of Funchal Due to the “eternal spring”, Madeira is a golf destination that is ideal all year round. Madeira has 2 mature championship golf courses: Golfers meet either at the Palheiro Golf Course high above Funchal, or at the Santo da Serra Golf Course with its 27 holes. Palheiro Golf offers great views of Funchal. The holes are laid out in a varied manner in the hilly surroundings. If the fairways sometimes seem short and easy, this is compensated for with strongly undulating, small greens… Santo da Serra Golf is the classier of the two golf clubs with stunning views of the Eastern Cape. The fairways here are wider and less steep. The rental clubs are also new. At Palheiro Golf, you pay a surcharge for “premium clubs”. We recommend a buggy on both courses, as the fairways are long and hilly. We recommend both courses but with a clear preference for Santo da Serra Golf. Fairway 2 of the Desertas Course with a view of the East Cape Good trip and nice weather! Madeira is a paradise for nature­lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Located in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Africa, the Portuguese island captivates with its lush vegetation, rugged rock formations, and fissured volcanic landscapes. ## Hiking in Madeira: discover the breathtaking beauty of the Island of Flowers Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/madeira/hiking-madeira-island-of-flowers Madeira, also known as the “Island of Flowers”, is a true paradise for hiking enthusiasts. The Portuguese island in the Atlantic Ocean offers spectacular landscapes with cliffs, lush forests, picturesque coastal paths, and breathtaking viewpoints. Whether you’re an experienced hiker or an occasional hiker, Madeira has something for everyone. Here are our hiking tips for three of the best hiking trails in Madeira. And also three equipment tips to prepare you for your adventure. Spectacular viewing platform Miradouro do Ninho da Manta (Buzzard’s Nest) not far from Pico do Arieiro 3 hiking tips for Madeira from difficult to easy On Madeira, you will find well-developed hiking trails and walks along levadas – the artificial irrigation channels that serve as hiking trails similar to those in Valais. Different routes offer hikers the opportunity to discover the unique beauty of the island. Whether you opt for an easy hike along the coast or a levada or a more challenging mountain hike, you will be rewarded with spectacular views and unforgettable experiences. Hiking in Madeira is a highlight for all nature lovers. So lace up your hiking boots, pack your rucksack, and get ready to explore the beauty of the flower island on foot! PR 1.2: Pequenas Rotas. Hiking signpost between Pico Ruivo and Achada do Teixeira The royal stage: from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and Achada do Teixeira parking lot Starting point: Hikers below the Pico do Arieiro viewpoint Travel memo hiking tip: From Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and Achada do Teixeira Distance: 7 km (not a circular route!) Duration: approx. 4:00h Ascent/descent: approx. 700 m, very, very steep in places! Starting point: Pico do Arieiro End point: Achada do Teixeira via Pico Ruivo Difficulty/Condition: difficult hike. The route requires a good level of fitness and surefootedness Equipment: Sturdy footwear (hiking boots!), sun protection, water, provisions, and camera/mobile phone. You should also have a headlamp or flashlight with you for the two long tunnels. Or a well-charged cell phone. For adventurous hikers and summiteers, the royal stage on Madeira is an absolute highlight! The PR 1.2 (Pequenas Rotas) route takes you from Pico do Arieiro (1818 m), the third highest peak in Madeira, via the highest peak, Pico Ruivo (1862 m), to the restaurant and car park at Achada do Teixeira. It is a challenging but also very impressive hike with spectacular views and a variety of scenic highlights. Some are quite daunting, such as the Stairway of Death! But you are secured by handrails everywhere. You still need to be free from giddiness, otherwise you won’t get far. Flower lovers get their money’s worth, especially in May, June and July. For bird lovers, there is unfortunately not so much to see, as Madeira has very few insects: They don’t like the frequent smell of eucalyptus and accordingly, there is little bird food… So you don’t come to Madeira for birding. The hike begins at Pico do Arieiro, where you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountain landscape. The onion principle for clothing protects you from the stiff wind. From here, follow the well-signposted PR 1.2 path, which soon descends on steps and then quickly becomes steeper and steeper. Starting point: Air Force radar station on the Pico do Arieiro Hiking trail to the Miradouro do Ninho da Manta Exposed viewing platform of the Miradouro Ninho do Manta (Buzzard’s Nest) and Faja da Nogueira valley View from the Miradouro do Ninho da Manta of the cliff face with hikers (white dots above the center) Hiker on the steep face on the path secured with ropes Alex, Katja and Gabi at one of the many viewpoints Alex on one of the cretes secured everywhere Stairs of death: Ladders in the steepest part of the hike The steepest section of this summit hike is tackled via a steep metal staircase, which offers no room for crossing or tripping. Dramatically, it is called the “Stairs of Death“. After all, there is the “Stairway to Heaven” elsewhere. Because that’s not enough, the hiking trail also leads through several unlit tunnels. There are five in total. The longest is 150 meters long. We cross the tunnels with our cell phone flashlights. If you have a small torch or headlamp, this would be ideal, as some relatively large puddles and rocks are in the way. After around three hours, we reach the Mountain hut Casa de Abrigo Pico Ruivo. Toilets are available here (there are none on the way). You can also refill your drinking water bottle or buy drinks (this is all the hut offers). The peak of Pico Ruivo is already close by. However, the final ascent to Madeira’s highest peak involves a lot of stairs – and is therefore a bit of a leg-breaker. Once at the top, climbers are treated to a panoramic view of the entire island and the surrounding sea. A wonderful moment and an unforgettable experience! After admiring the spectacular panorama, we make the gentle descent to the Achada do Teixeira restaurant and parking lot, where cab driver Agostinho is waiting for us. View from Pico Ruivo to the shelter below the summit Redeeming sight: Achada do Teixeira restaurant and parking lot Safe hiking trail on a steep face A word of warning: The royal stage is not a walk in the park, but a challenging hike that requires good physical fitness and stamina. You also need to be sure-footed and have a head for heights. Hiking poles are a great help on the high steps. Our tip for getting to the Pico: Many visitors complete the hike from Pico do Arieiros to Pico Ruivo and back – in other words, as a circular hike. However, we advise you not to: firstly, you need to be in top physical condition for this. And secondly, it is difficult to cross the hikers coming towards you on the narrow ridge in some exposed places. It should also be noted that the parking spaces at Pico do Arieiro are limited. The cars of hikers who park their rental cars suboptimally at the side of the road are often towed away! (At least that’s what our cab driver claims…) So it’s better to take a cab or a shuttle to Pico do Arieiro and then get picked up again at the large parking lot of Achada do Teixeira. We book the taxi driver and private tour guide Agostinho José Abreu via our hotel. He provides interesting background information about the island on the way and picks you up on time. Book him early, as he is very popular with his regular customers and is often booked! Agostinho speaks excellent English and also some German. Email: agostinho_1045@hotmail.com Tel. +351 917 233 590 or +351 291 782 713 Alternatively, there are also GetYourGuide transfers and even excursions with a guided hike to book. Coastal hike to Ponta de São Lourenço on the east cape of Madeira View of the Eastern Cape from the Miradouro de Abismo Travel memo hiking tip: Coastal hike to Ponta de São Lourenço on the east cape of Madeira Distance: 8 km Duration: approx. 3:00h Ascent/descent: 405 m Start and end point: at the Baia d’Abra parking lot (near Machico) – see signs for Ponta São Lourenço Difficulty/condition: moderately difficult hike, some parts are steep and require surefootedness Equipment: sturdy footwear, sun protection (there is hardly any shade along the route), and water Food/toilet: The Casa do Sardinha restaurant is available towards the end of the peninsula This coastal hike to Ponta de São Lourenço is an absolute must for nature lovers who want to explore the rough and spectacular beauty of Madeira’s coastline. The eastern cape of the island offers a unique landscape with scarpy cliffs, brown/red rocks, crystal-clear water, and a variety of plant species. The hike begins in Baía d’Abra, a small nature reserve in the east of Madeira. From there, you follow a well-signposted path along the coast. The path winds through dry scrubland, past fascinating rock formations on the cliffs. During the hike, you will repeatedly have breathtaking views of the turquoise-blue Atlantic and the impressive cliffs. The variety of colors reflected in the rocks is impressive. This unique combination of rugged coastline, lush vegetation, and the sound of the sea makes the coastal hike to Ponta de São Lourenço an unforgettable experience. View from the starting point Miradouro do Caniçal Katja takes a photo of Gorilla Rock (left in the sea) Fierce Gorilla Rock in front of the east cape of Madeira Tip: We don’t start the hike from the well-filled Baia d’Abra parking lot like most people, but instead park the car at the little-visited Miradouro (viewing platform) de São Lourenço and set off from there. Although this means another small loop, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the rugged cliffs and the entire peninsula from the Miradouro de Abismo viewpoint. The Casa do Sardinha restaurant offers hot meals during the hike. You can also book boat trips here. No wonder the viewpoint is called Miradouro de Abismo (white dot on top left). Those standing at the top don’t realize it like this It’s worth getting up early: the Eastern Cape hike is very popular This mountain formation looks like an elephant holding its trunk in the sea. However, the actual “Elephant Rock” is located behind it and is much smaller. “False” Elephant Rock on the east cape of Madeira Levada hike to the 25 Springs and Risco waterfall Travel demo hiking tip: Levada hike to the 25 Springs and Risco waterfall Distance: 11.6 km Duration: approx. 3:00h Ascent/descent: 385 m Start and end point: at the parking lot on the ER 110 road (turn-off towards Rabaçal) Difficulty/condition: moderately difficult hike Equipment: Parts of the trail can be slippery. It is therefore advisable to wear good shoes with a profile One of the most popular levada walks in Madeira leads to the 25 Springs, also known as “Levada das 25 Fontes“. This idyllic canal path through lush landscapes with erica bushes and laurel forests leads past waterfalls and is one of the most popular levada routes on the island. The hike begins in Rabaçal, a charming village in the western part of Madeira. From there, you follow the Levada path through dense forests and along steep cliffs. The levada itself is an artificial irrigation channel that has been used for centuries to irrigate fields and generate energy. During the hike, you will experience the beauty of nature in all its splendor. You will pass several waterfalls cascading down from the surrounding mountains. After a hike of around three hours, you will finally reach the 25 springs. 3 tips regarding hiking equipment Regardless of whether you’re doing an easy levada hike or the royal stage: Good footwear (we recommend hiking boots for the royal stage!) is essential You should also always have sun protection and plenty of water and snacks with you, as there are hardly any refreshment options along the way. Singapore River Cruise Original Singapore Walks in cultural and historical enclaves such as Chinatown, Little India and Kampong Gelam SIA Hop-On Bus which is a great way to go shopping and see the city sights (see my next review) ## Wining and dining experience with Singapore Airlines Source: https://travelmemo.com/singapore/singapore-airlines-dining-experience Justine Tyerman writes about an ultra ‘high-end’ wining and dining experience in Singapore Airlines’ Business Class – an experience out of this world… Last week I wined and dined in style, courtesy of three world-renowned wine critics, eight celebrated chefs and six attentive waiters and waitresses. The restaurant was ultra ‘high-end’, the view heavenly and the cuisine divine. I was flying Business Class from Auckland to Singapore direct on Singapore Airlines, a nine hour, 40 minute flight, during which time I was treated to a magnificent seven-course lunch and a five-course dinner designed by an International Culinary Panel from the USA, China, India, Australia, France, Italy and Japan. In addition, I had the choice of an impressive array of champagnes and wines tasted and selected by top international wine critics, writers, academics and judges. The Cabin Crew of my Singapore Airlines flight As one of the few passengers awake in business class, I had the full attention of chief steward Wong and his team Niken, Wu, Felicia, Manisha and Quek who pampered me to such a degree, the flight seemed unduly short. For starters… Before we had even taken off, Niken had poured me a glass of Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne from France. The bubbles looked so pretty against the backdrop of puffy, marshmallow clouds. Lunch began with a flourish – a starched white tablecloth and fine cutlery was spread before me followed by the first of seven courses, a canapé of Singapore chicken and lamb satay with onion, cucumber and spicy peanut sauce. Deliciously spicy and nutty. Niken from Indonesia with a glass of Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne. The bubbles looked so pretty against the backdrop of puffy, marshmallow clouds. After a brief interlude, an appetiser of poached prawns with fresh pineapple cucumber, mint and coriander leaves appeared. Delicate, clean, fresh flavours. The appetiser of poached prawns with fresh pineapple cucumber, mint and coriander leaves. Main course Singapore Airlines style For the main course, Wong recommended the grilled beef in bordelaise sauce with mushrooms, spinach gratin and cherry tomatoes created by Sydney chef Matt Moran who co-owns the award-winning Morans and Aria restaurants. The beef was cooked to perfection. How do they manage to do that at 30,000ft? Other tempting dishes on the menu were salmon teriyaki, Spanish braised chicken and Gulai Kambing, a popular Indonesian lamb curry. I’ll definitely try the curry next time. Main course – grilled beef in bordelaise sauce created by Sydney chef Matt Moran. I was also offered a basket of gourmet breads and crispy rolls. The garlic bread is downright dangerous. I had at least three pieces. And dessert, at last For dessert, I chose the strawberry tiramisu with a coconut wafer which was not too sweet or heavy. The alternative was decadent triple chocolate ice cream with a fruit coulis. Then along came a selection of cheeses including my favourite Kikorangi blue, a mellow camembert and an aged cheddar, and a colourful basket of fresh fruit – grapes, strawberries, honey dew melon, mandarins, and New Zealand apples and pears. Assorted cheeses, fresh fruit and nuts. Just as I thought the repast was coming to a close, a tray of irresistible fine pralines appeared. I couldn’t resist just one… or three. Niken with a tray of irresistible fine pralines. Exceptional wine list The wine list was extensive and impressive. Created by three of the world’s leading wine experts, Jeannie Cho Lee, Michael Hill Smith and Oz Clarke, it included champagne and wines from all over the world. There was a 2016 Sauvignon Blanc from Mudhouse in Marlborough, New Zealand, but with dinner, I fancied the 2013 Joseph Drouhin Rully Blanc from Burgundy – a refreshing, subtle chardonnay with hints of white flowers, almonds and citrus. I was also proud to sample the first craft beer ever served on Singapore Airlines, a Kiwi beer – Hapi Daze – from the Garage Project brewery based in an old petrol station in Wellington. I’m not a beer drinker but I could easily change my ways for Hapi Daze. After sampling the lovely perfumes and moisturisers in the well-lit, immaculately clean bathroom, I stowed my personal gear in the many handy compartments, plugged in all my technology, slipped on my sleeping socks and reclined my 28-inch armchair into a 78-inch flat bed. I snuggled under my duvet, lay my head on a pillow as soft as a cloud and slept blissfully for over well over five hours. As soon as I awoke, Wu appeared with a fruit bowl and Wong with a chocolate bar and some nuts. There were also sandwiches and noodles in case I felt hungry before dinner. I actually couldn’t recall what ‘hungry’ felt like. The flat bed on Singapore Airlines Business Class Wu with a bowl of fresh fruit. “Mrs Teerman”? “Would you like another pillow,” Mrs Tyerman? I loved the way they said my name. “Mrs Teerman.” Nothing was too much trouble. I put on the noise-cancelling headphones that cover the whole ear and flicked through KrisWorld’s fabulous selection of 1000 movies, television shows and music programmes on my 18-inch personal LCD screen. I dropped into my favourite site, the flight path information, and glimpsed out the window to align the landscape 30,000ft below with the image on the screen. I was immediately transfixed by the terrain and all thoughts of movies were forgotten. We were nearing the Australian coast after flying diagonally across this vast country for the last three or four hours. The red earth was deeply weathered like an ancient body covered in wrinkles and furrows from the wear and tear of many millennia. The landmass gradually dissolved into the vivid turquoise ocean, dotted with rocky islands, as we flew over the Timor Sea. Yet another dinner A ‘light dinner’ was served in Denpasar airspace. I started with tomato juice, and a little more Charles Heidsieck – just sips because we were landing soon. It matched the effervescence of my mood and my excitement to be heading to Laos with my favourite tour company, Innovative Travel, after a stopover in Singapore. The appetiser was tuttafetta ham with mesclun, fresh melon, shaved fennel and sundried tomatoes. The sweet and savoury flavours complemented each other perfectly. Dinner is served – starting with an appetiser My main course was roasted chicken thigh with creamy green peppercorn sauce, carrots, yellow capsicums and baby potatoes with herbs. Very tender and flavoursome, as if freshly cooked. Other choices were herb-crusted lingfish fillet in pesto-spinach velouté with ink noodles and rocket leaves, or Thai-style stir fried beef in sweet basil with Asian vegetables, cashew nuts and steamed rice. Niken noticed a tiny mark on my starched white table cloth where I had spilt a drop of sauce so she quickly replaced it. From the bakery, assorted rolls and gourmet breads… and that garlic bread again. A piece accidentally snuck onto my plate. Dessert was a divine chocolate cappuccino cake with raspberry coulis. So good but I conceded defeat half way through. Dessert – a divine chocolate cappuccino cake with raspberry coulis. After dinner, Inflight manager Ong Hong Guan from Singapore stopped by for a chat. Ong had been with Singapore Airlines for 28 years, starting as a steward. Singapore Airlines is a great company to work for, he said. “That’s why I’m still here after all this time. I love my work. No two flights are ever the same. The airline is 70 years old now so we’ve been around for a long time.” I told Ong my first overseas trip in my early 20s was from Auckland to London on Singapore Airlines. I’ve never forgotten the lovely ‘Singapore Girls’ in their graceful sarong kebaya. Other airlines keep changing their uniforms, sometimes with disastrous results. The kebaya, designed by Parisian couturier Pierre Balmain in 1968, has remained constant, like the service, the smiles and the charm. “The aim of our staff, all 8000, is to always leave a lasting impression,” said Ong. Inflight manager Ong Hong Guan from Singapore greets passengers at the door. They do it so well, I still have vivid memories about my flight 40 years ago, including the food. Even back then, Singapore Airlines’ cuisine was leading the way. Now it’s in another stratosphere. Ong also explained that passengers in suites, first class, business class and premium economy, can reserve their main course up to 24 hours before their flight, including creations inspired by the International Culinary Panel. A clever concept. Just before it was time to land, Niken gave me a Singapore Airlines teddy bear, playing cards and a greetings card from the cabin crew. She looked just as fresh and lovely as when I boarded 10 hours earlier. Niken presents me with a Singapore Airlines teddy bear, playing cards and a greetings card from the cabin crew Apart from a change in the engine noise, I hardly knew we had landed. It was as light as a butterfly. Such an experience is quite addictive. It completely spoils one for flying any other way. It’s out of this world. Getting there with Singapore Airlines Singapore Airlines has a code-share agreement with Swiss International Airlines (SWISS) SilkAir flies from Singapore to Vientiane and Luang Prabang three times weekly. Lao Airlines flies from Vientiane to Xieng Khuang. Singapore Airlines’ Business Class also gave me preferential boarding privileges, and access to the smart Air New Zealand lounge in Auckland and the SATS Premier lounge in Singapore where I showered, changed, rested and sampled more gourmet cuisine and champagne. (reviews to follow shortly) Justine Tyerman travelled with Innovative Travel, a Christchurch-based boutique tour operator with 27 years’ experience offering travellers the opportunity to explore historically and culturally unique destinations worldwide that provide a challenge but with the security of a peace-of-mind 24/7, wrap-around service. So important in a seriously foreign country like Laos. Accommodation Pan Pacific Singapore in Singapore Crowne Plaza, in Vientiane, Laos ## IGNIV: a nest feathered by star chef Andreas Caminada? Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/igniv-andreas-caminada-bad-ragaz “Igniv” means “nest” in the Rheto-Romanic language spoken in parts of Switzerland. It is the name (in all caps) that Grisons star chef Andreas Caminada gave his second new restaurant brand that he developed and then opened in Bad Ragaz, putting his long-time sous-chef Silvio Germann in to run the kitchen for what would be the test of a new dining experience: serving gourmet cuisine, but in many small portions that are meant to be shared. By creating this “feathered nest” for the youngster, Caminada also put his reputation on the line. How would it all turn out? “Sharing is caring” is a trendy concept, especially with the younger generation. As it happens, I belong to a more seasoned cohort that is not as prone to willy-nilly sharing everything – and certainly not a gourmet meal! But, then there is Walter, ever eager to chase down and test a new concept. After all, the IGNIV Fine Dining Sharing Experience is carefully designed to provide just that: a shared culinary experience. Well, say no more…! The menu with stylized nest and egg on the cover stands at the ready Alone the drive to Bad Ragaz has plenty of charm – or would have had if this vacation destination had not been greyed out in a steady drizzle on the day we arrive. Dispensing with the umbrella, we hurry from the parking lot to what used to be the space occupied by the Äbtestube, the former restaurant of Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, which now houses IGNIV under its stylized nest and egg logo. This is where Caminada has “nested” junior chef Silvio Germann, himself celebrated as the GaultMillau “Discovery of the Year 2017.” No doubt, this move helps Caminada keep his status as a top chef undiminished. After all, he can’t both fend off Pantaléon, the contumacious castle ghost haunting his Restaurant Schloss Schauenstein, while riding herd on the kitchen in Bad Ragaz at the same time… Here, by the way, is our report on the “Haunting of Schloss Schauenstein” by said (real!) castle ghost (link opens new window). Back at IGNIV, we are genially welcomed by restaurant manager Francesco Benvenuto. With that auspicious last name, how can anything possibly go wrong? Encountering this fellow Italian, I’m definitely perking up. The warm ambiance created by interior decorator Patricia Urquiola and the lovely table reserved for us by the fireplace raise my spirits even more. Walter, too, relaxes, and soon he is intensively (read: “like crazy”) shooting everything in sight with his camera. Our table by the fireplace Compliments from the kitchen: IGNIV amuse-bouches As he learned under Caminada, chef Silvio Germann sends all sorts of greetings from the kitchen in the form of amuse-bouches: The Fine Dining Sharing Experience starts off with air bread and gazpacho, mackerel with kohlrabi, duck foie gras with dried pear and eggs royale. Amuse-bouches, IGNIV-Style Air bread with gazpacho Mackerel and kohlrabi dumpling Macaroon with duck foie gras and dried pear Nested egg royale in the shell Each of the assorted tidbits comes in pairs in little bowls, so that sharing is not so hard after all :-) Not bad, and I’m feeling more chipper by the moment! And that is because Benvenuto now puts on his sommelier hat and recommends a new wine with each course. And fills our glasses for starters, with a vintner’s champagne. Appetizers without end In an appropriately slow rhythm, the attentive servers Francis and Tobias bring us duck liver with truffles and brioche, tomato salad with basil and pascal celery, beef roulettes with chanterelles and potato chip, char with cucumber, dill, and radish, and trout with fennel and Amalfi lemon. Not only are these delights delicious, their presentation on decorative Nachtmann glass bowls, moreover, is excellent. Walter almost doesn’t get out from behind his camera. And me, I almost don’t get to eat… Tomato salad with basil and pascal celery Beef roulettes with chanterelles and potato chip Char with cucumber, dill, and radish Now, sommelier Benvenuto reaches for an unfiltered Sauvignon Blanc. Exquisite choice! The table, already loaded with choice morsels, is turning into a feast for the senses. I’m nearly blown away by it all already, when here come our hosts bearing a “steamed up” glass cupola under which rest, we are informed, IGNIV nuggets of chicken from Val Lumnezia, cured over 3 days and nights. Mamma mia! With solemn mien, the glass dome is at last lifted and dramatically waved before our eyes. The steam (or is it smoke?) wafts away in all directions. IGNIV nuggets ready to be served IGNIV nuggets – wait, is that Pantaléon’s face in the steam? Shock! For just a moment, I think I’ve seen the face of Pantaléon the castle ghost in the steam! Did Caminada chase him out of Schloss Schauenstein, to have him breathe down magician apprentice Germann’s neck for a change? Or is it Benvenuto’s wine accompaniment that is playing tricks on me? Whatever; the spectacularly-staged, gourmet quality chicken nuggets taste out of this world, that I’m sure of! And one more surprise course… Because we came for lunch and will have ample time after for digesting it all, we also do not pass up the added surprise elements. That results in our being served baked zander on peperonta and estragon foam, then pork ravioli and nut butter and, finally, pork belly with crispy skin. Zander on peperonata and estragon foam And now… the main course! Once more, on decorative small plates, we are served “Holzen” calf entrecôte, carpaccio of calf with potato vinaigrette, braised calf cheek with radish, and napkin dumplings with porcini, beans, and artichoke. “Holzen” calf entrecôte Benvenuto materializes by our table with a 2010 Barbaresco. The Nebbiolo grape juice presents wonderfully in the elegant Zalto Denk’Art wine glasses. And, so it does also, slowly but surely, in my head… As usual, we end with dessert – or the chef! In other bowls of shining crystal, we finish with iced yogurt balls with cherry and cherry sorbet, Black Forest macaroon, farina blancmange with kirsch sauce, clafoutis with apricot and vanilla, pecan nut parfait inventively camouflaged as hedgehog, and an apricot champagne mousse. Iced yogurt ball with cherry Pecan parfait camouflaged as hedgehog Apricot Champagne mousse I’m about to lose my mind! And just then, Silvio Germann emerges from the kitchen. Owwww! He is even better looking than Caminada! Ok, I’m seriously blown away now! as Walter struggles to help me pick myself up from the carpet… What more can I say, other than that a visit to IGNIV is crazy worth it! Forget about anyone “having his nest feathered”. Not a chance! The young team around Germann and Benevenuto on its own, in practically no time at all, has already won 16 GaultMillau points and one Michelin star for Caminada’s “Sharing Experience.” I’ll be interested to see what other heights they will scale… Kitchen chef Germann and sommelier Benvenuto with the IGNIV egg and nest A well-practiced, simpatico team Menu prices The IGNIV 3-course sharing adventure costs CHF 148.— per person. It’s not exactly nothing, but worth it! If you want to let yourself be treated to 3 or 5 surprise components, you will need to put down another CHF 40.- or possibly CHF 60.-. Incidentally, on Sunday afternoons they have a 3-course sharing for kids! How very cool is that? Address Restaurant IGNIV in the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz Bernhard-Simonstrasse 7310 Bad Ragaz Tel +41 81 303 30 30 reservation@igniv.com To the restaurant website ## Ophelia Restaurant at the Riva Konstanz and two tragic travel bloggers Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/ophelia-restaurant-riva-constance This post is about the time recently that saw us dining at the Hotel Riva Konstanz by Germany’s Lake Constance. We leave it to you, dear fellow traveler, to judge which was the greater tragedy: the story of the curvaceous Imperia, Shakespeare’s tale of the beautiful Ophelia, or how we failed to recognize the star chef of the gourmet restaurant that bears Ophelia’s name. Yes, a tragic tale, but true… Dieser Artikel ist auch auf Deutsch erschienen. As the saying goes, with the buxom Imperia guarding the entrance to Konstanz Harbor, things start off with a bang here on the Bodensee (the German name for Lake Constance). The scantily clad lady is said to have made the guys attending the Council of Konstanz (1414 – 1418) break out in a sweat. An ample Imperia holding Pope Martin V. and Emperor Sigismund in the palms of her hands Looking suitably kinky, Pope Martin V and the Emperor Sigismund sit more naked than not in the palms of Imperia’s hands. Little wonder that erecting a “racy madam” like this — after all, she measures 9 meters tall and tips the scale at 18 tons — in such a prominent place did not go unprotested. Interestingly, since she stood on private property and the landowners apparently found Imperia irresistible, neither the church in Konstanz nor the conservative city councilors could prevent it. The harbor entrance of Konstanz with Imperia on her plinth Ferry and Imperia in Konstanz Harbor And so, it came to be that the world’s largest monument to a prostitute turned into a landmark and welcoming tourist magnet. Menfolk and womenfolk alike continue to pay homage to Imperia’s fabulous curves… A few snapshots later, we, too, take our leave and make tracks, for, after all, supper awaits us in the Ophelia Restaurant. This Ophelia is the city’s other beauty. The name comes from Shakespeare’s tragedy of Hamlet. In it, the smitten Hamlet is not treated to what popes and emperor are alleged to have indulged in liberally during the aforesaid Council. And in the end, unrequited love drives the lovely Ophelia mad and she drowns herself in the river. Good lord! You can probably guess in what frame of mind all this put Katja and me as we prepared now to plumb the culinary artistry of chef de cuisine Dirk Hoberg. Will we, despite so much naked reality, be able to enjoy his 17 Gault Millau points? Will he fetch those two Michelin stars from the heavens for us? The Ophelia gourmet restaurant Just to keep the suspense from killing you, dear reader: yes, in the restaurant there are more nudity and voluptuous curves! Maria Sagmeister, the art historian from Bregenz, had the restaurant decorated with ten photographs: they juxtapose nude marble sculptures and wildflowers of the region to symbolize beauty, fragility, and humanity. Quite like Shakespeare’s figure of Ophelia in Hamlet. Please note the nudes discreetly reflected left and right… As I recover from my understandable momentary distraction, the action starts quickly at our table with the usual good greetings from the kitchen. Stefanie Heid and her numerous male and female colleagues in steady procession bring us assorted amuse-bouche: perch from Lake Constance join radishes from Mainau island, beef tartare with truffles, eel in a tempura shell and decoratively stuffed egg. Perch from Lake Constance and radishes Beef tartare with truffles (upper left), radishes from Mainau island and eel in a tempura jacket Amuse geule from stuffed eggs In between, cheerful sommelier Werner Hinze volubly explicates which Müller-Thurgau he recommends to get us started. We taste and nod our pleased agreement. Not for nothing is this the most popular wine grape hybrid in Germany…. After this felicitous introduction, he does not have to persuade us very long to agree to the wine accompaniment for the gourmet menu. We hang on his every word and respond to every recommendation with “yes, sure!” or also the occasional: “Wow, yeah, absolutely!” The greetings from the kitchen resume. The staff are totally into friendliness here; if a 4-part amuse bouche is not enough for you, we’ll bring you another one! Lake Constance whitefish in dill jacket with asparagus ice cream and soup Already slightly buzzed by the apéro at the hotel pool and the first few glasses, do I read correctly that the amuse bouche here are called “amuse geule”? Whatever they call it, suddenly Lake Constance whitefish in a dill jacket appears, with asparagus ice cream and its little soup. This one is served up by another, new waiter. We quickly lose track, that is how numerous the servers here are and how quickly they go about their business. Some of them wear white shirts or blouses, while others wear green aprons over them. Probably coming directly from the stove? The many servers in white and green continue to cheerfully bring course after course — foie gras, crab, red shrimp, skate, and venison. Each new plate is more artistically arranged than the last and the food is exquisite! What a great experience! Foie gras and peach with spruce buds Crab with chili, mango and snow peas Red shrimp, fennel and chickpeas Skate, peas and octopus with preserved lemon And for every course, sommelier Hinze knows the optimum wine. With the hotel since 2009, he lords over a cellars for white wine and red wine plus a ripening cellar. With a wink, he tells us that he is sure we oenophile Swiss know how to appreciate what is here. Delighted at the compliment, we reach for the next glass… Wine accompaniment for the gourmet menu Meanwhile, already somewhat under the influence, I recollect the real reason for our visit, namely to review the cookery of chef de cuisine Dirk Hoberg. Katja casually points out that we have a photo of him. It immediately jolts me fully awake: Wait a minute! Wasn’t that the young man in the green apron? We are served one of the dishes personally by none other than the famous chef de cuisine himself — and we fail to recognize him? Egad! That would never happen to real food bloggers! What a faux pas — no, a tragedy! Oh, well, we realize we blew it, but then we do find some comfort in the fine dessert and manage to drown our sorrow in the last drop of muscatel… Dessert from strawberries Ophelia friandise edibles The wine accompaniment aftermath… With heavy hearts, we retreat to our quarters in the adjoining Hotel Riva and flip a coin for which of us two will “have to” write this report. Tragically, I draw the short straw. So, here it is. Thank you for your commiseration! Actually, on the “morning after” we did make up by getting our obligatory photo in the kitchen. Now we’re all clear on whose heels to stick to. Tragedy averted; or, to quote the Bard of Avon: “All’s well that ends well.” Walter all smiles after all with chef de cuisine Dirk Hoberg And we also tracked down sommelier Hinze in his spacious wine cellar. Walter and sommelier Werner Hinze About the Riva – the hotel on Lake Constance Hotel Riva on Lake Constance Main wing of the Riva on the right and its villa in Jugendstil style next door The hotel’s modern, elegant main building rises majestically on the shore of Lake Constance. Butting up against it is a renovated Jugendstil villa dating from the year 1909. It houses the lucullan as well as bucullan top quality of the Ophelia gourmet restaurant. The main building has elegant, generously sized hotel rooms and a heated pool on the roof. This is the ideal place for sobering up and then buckling down to work ;-) Shower with a view of the hotel room Swimmer sculpture by the hotel pool on the top floor Walter hard at work. In his bathrobe. Travel blogger on the roof terrace Restaurant Adress Ophelia Gourmet Restaurant, Riva Constance Hotel Seestrasse 25 78464 Constance Germany Check out the restaurant website here { "@context": "http://schema.org/", "@type": "Review", "itemReviewed": { "@type": "Restaurant", "address": { "@type": "PostalAddress", "addressLocality": "Constance", "addressRegion": "Baden-Württemberg", "postalCode": "78464", "streetAddress": "Seestrasse 25", "addressCountry": "DE" }, "name": "Ophelia", "openingHours": [ "Do-Mo 19:00-24:00" ], "priceRange": "$$$$", "servesCuisine": [ "Mediterran" ], "email": "mailto:welcome@hotel-riva.de", "image": "https://travelmemo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Ophelia-gourmet-restaurant-Riva-Constance-4.jpg", "telephone": "+49 75 31 3 63 09 0", "url": "https://www.restaurant-ophelia.de/index-en.html" }, "author": { "@type": "Person", "@id":"https://travelmemo.com/#person", "name": "Walter Schärer", "url": "https://travelmemo.com/author/walter-schaerer", "sameAs": [ "https://www.google.com/search?kgmid=/g/11vyy41ctv", "https://github.com/webmemo-code", "https://www.facebook.com/walter.schaerer", "https://x.com/walterschaerer", "https://www.linkedin.com/in/walterschaerer/", "https://reisememo.ch/reiseblogger/walter-schaerer", "https://webmemo.ch/author/walter-schaerer", "https://medium.com/@WalterSchaerer", "https://youtube.com/channel/UCfzTIuCp9FsfG-pb47gYdhg", "https://www.xing.com/profile/Walter_Schaerer", "https://search.ch/tel/zuerich/trottenstrasse-3/walter-schaerer", "https://www.flickr.com/photos/schaerer/", "https://www.moneyhouse.ch/de/person/schaerer-walter-andres-121995368901", "https://ch.pinterest.com/reisememo/", "https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/109085359766489191785/", "https://www.local.ch/de/d/zuerich/8037/schaerer-walter-hLD7T9-dHVA0oaxqe4XyIQ", "https://www.swisstravelcommunicators.ch/mitglieder/walter-schaerer/", "https://about.me/schaerer", "https://www.reddit.com/user/Chemical_Pin_6793/" ], "gender": "Male", "birthDate": "1966-02-24", "worksFor": [ {"@id": "https://webmemo.ch/#consulting"}, {"@id": "https://kpmg.com/ch/#corporation"} ] } }, "publisher": { "@type": "Organization", "name": "travelmemo.com", "url": "https://travelmemo.com", "@id": "https://travelmemo.com" } Our thanks this time go to… … Oliver Sefrin of the German Tourist Office (Deutsche Zentrale für Tourismus – DZT). He introduced us to Markus Otto Graf of Graf’s Kontor, responsible for marketing the Riva. This charming promoter had little difficulty convincing us of the merits of the Riva Hotel ;-) Many thanks also to Frau Dauwalter for the nice welcome and tour of the hotel! ## Castle fit for a princess: Château d’Ouchy in Lausanne Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-chateau-ouchy-lausanne Having heard quite a bit about hotel Château d’Ouchy over the years, I’d always wanted to spend a night as a princess in that castle by Lake Geneva with a history that dates to the 12th century. So, what did I find out when I finally made it there? The Château also once did duty as a prison! A few years ago, when my work involved staging recognition events, a colleague in Lausanne asked my opinion of a venue for a special occasion in Romandy, the French-speaking region of Switzerland. The pictures she sent me were of Château d’Ouchy. Even without ever having been to the hotel myself, I was sure it would be a perfect fit. Château d’Ouchy by Lake Geneva A castle far away, with a pretty garden and tall trees on the Lake Geneva shore — what more could anyone ask for? My inner movie even then started playing; it starred me as the princess of the castle and hostess, greeting the guests garbed in gorgeous outfits, sipping their Champagne and savoring the lovely setting’s ambiance. Picturesque ambiance envelops the castle When Walter recently mentioned a discovery of his, namely the designer bar at the Hotel Château d’Ouchy, I could not resist any longer: I had to finally visit the hotel myself. By way of Lavaux wine country to Lausanne-Ouchy Accordingly, on a splendid early summer’s day, we set out on the road to Lausanne and Lake Geneva. As we traveled along the Route du Lac through picturesque Lavaux wine country and past Château de Montagny, nestled picturesquely among the vineyards, it was easy to see what an attraction the road there is in itself. Getting there is half the fun! Route du Lac and the Clos des Moines winery Château de Montagny in Lavaux wine country When we set out on one of our journeys of discovery, we make it a point to research our intended destination a bit first. Confession: we often do it just before setting out or even shortly before getting there. Ever primed for adventure, Walter reads to me as we drive what he is finding out about the Château: during the Reformation, it served the occupiers as a prison! Huh? So, you’re telling me we are going to spend the night in a former prison? This was not part of my dream when planning the trip. For a moment, I am suddenly back down on earth, feeling deflated. Just like that, all my princess dreams have been punctured! But, gradually, I collect myself, not least because Walter reminds me that, ever since our recent visit to Schloss Schauenstein, even spooky castle ghosts cannot faze us. Surprising Château d’Ouchy So, never mind, let’s get back to French-speaking Switzerland, where we have arrived at our destination. More curious than perplexed, we enter the castle. What once upon a time was the castle bailey, today is a modern hotel lobby suffused by light under a glassed-in framework that allows a view of the castle’s ancient exterior. This mixture of modern design and historical building help assuage any lingering doubts for us. Nothing here reminiscent of a prison, right? But, hold on, not so fast: we have yet to take possession of our room, after all. What if it used to be the tower dungeon once upon a time? The hotel lobby’s atrium The reception desk with its unusual time piece that spells out 10:15pm in French Lounge in the hotel bar Atmospheric hotel bar Feeling a bit queasy once again, we climb the circular stairway to the princess quarters. The sculptures on display in the hotel do not exactly help steady my wobbly knees… Stairwell with circular stairs The stairwell ceiling Total relief sets in as we enter our room, however: beguiled by the magnificent view of Lake Geneva and the modern interior, I find that I need to sit down for a bit to fully let the fairy tale-like scene set in. Superior room with lake view Modern design Generous bath room under sloping roof beams A prison you say…? When I read that only the original castle keep was preserved during the medieval castle’s demolition in 1885, I resolve to let go of the past once and for all and, instead, savor the present moment – or, to put it succinctly, the wonderful room I find myself in with the lovely view before me. Later, against this as the dreamy background, we promenade through the pretty castle garden and past the pool before sitting down to dinner in the castle’s restaurant, indulging in that Riviera feeling on the Lake Geneva shore. The castle garden with pool Apéro by the pool Restaurant in the Château d’Ouchy “Eole” sculpture by Clelia Bettua Walter in action with the new Huawei smartphone camera Not only am I kissed awake by a prince but also by the sun the next morning. Hungry enough to eat a horse, we make our way to “breakfast in paradise.” Invariably, that is the term we apply to breakfast when we are impressed not just by its culinary high notes but by the surroundings they are served in. Who wouldn’t enjoy a lake view with a breakfast fit for a princess? At dawn Sun’s up over Lake Geneva Breakfast in Paradise! Prince, princess or peasant, I can highly recommend a getaway to Château d’Ouchy. Not only is the hotel impressive, the surroundings are simply dreamy! Hotel address Château d’Ouchy Place du Port 1006 Lausanne See photos and prices on booking.com ## The Living Circle – an exceptional Swiss hospitality brand Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/the-living-circle-swiss-hospitality-brand Take two luxury hotels, add two unique restaurants and mix in two modern farms, combine the six establishments into one and, voilà, a new Swiss hospitality brand is born: “The Living Circle.” Different though the six may be, together they share the same purpose: to create an experience that sophisticated visitors won’t soon forget… The Living Circle – the hospitality brand Gratian Anda, the owner, and a man of the world who wears beautifully-cut suits, is also a man of action, who likes nothing better than making projects work, especially ones belonging to his own family. As the grandson of Emil Georg Bührle, founder of the Bührle Group, and himself an energetic entrepreneur and hotelier, Anda has the right DNA. His mother, art and music lover Hortense Anda-Bührle, contributed her share to sensibilizing her offspring to the finer things in life. When the opportunity recently presented itself of uniting under one organizational umbrella the properties divided among different branches of the family, Anda grabbed it. The concept guiding the owning Anda and Franz Bührle families in this project was that by combining their operations they could offer their hotel guests a special hotel and restaurant experience. And this was the kicker: natural ingredients that come to table direct from their sources: the family’s agricultural operations, Schlattgut in Herrliberg and Terreni alla Maggia in Ascona, their in-house purveyors of fare as fresh as it gets. And so “The Living Circle” hospitality brand came to be The Living Circle came to life in April 2017, composed of the following businesses, all wholly-owned by the Anda and Franz Bührle families for decades: in Zürich, Hotel Storchen with Restaurant Buech and the Schlattgut farm in Herrliberg; in Ticino Canton, the Hotel Castello del Sole with its Rustico del Sole and the Terreni alla Maggia estate in Ascona. Hotel Storchen Zurich Hotel Storchen illuminated by lighting artist Gerry Hofstetter Zurich’s Storchen was recently renovated in what may well be a record-breaking time of just over six weeks that turned it into a 5-star luxury hotel. The hotel may have enjoyed its spectacular location on the Limmat River facing City Hall previously, but now the inner spaces also glow in mellow hues and with many allusions to the eponymous storks. At the grand opening, Guild Master Dr. Peter Neuenschwander remarked that members of the Mariner’s Guild would continue to feel at home in the old-new guild hall. Although he did not let on just what he meant by that… Lounge at Storchen Hotel Cigars Lobby at Storchen Hotel Hotel Storchen and the Great Minster of Zurich Restaurant Buech Works of art and culinary culture in Restaurant Buech Also located spectacularly– to be exact, in a Herrliberg vineyard with views of Lake Zurich — is the Buech, that gem of a restaurant. The restaurant commands a terrace beautifully ingrown with greenery and inside spaces that say “romantic.” Schlattgut Farm Directly behind the Buech, you will find the Schlattgut farmstead, operated by the Ledergerber family. With the federally certified master farmer Peter Ledergerber running the agricultural operation, his wife Dora, herself a certificated farmer, looks after the farm store and the household. With the parents nearing retirement, two sons are working their way into the farm operation to prepare for taking it over in a few years. Andrin, also a federally certified farmer, already today oversees the dairy operation; Domenik, with a Bachelor’s of Science in agronomy, runs the Stübli (“cozy living room”) eatery. The siblings get along so well that they have made it their stated goal to manage the farm jointly in brotherly fashion. During a guided tour of the farm, I did not miss the chance to savor a glass of fresh milk. It came practically straight from the cow. And, surprise surprise, at least for this urban dweller — milk doesn’t come in cartons! And it tastes beastly good? And just a touch creamy? Walter with his glass of fresh milkFoto © Philippe Wiget, with thanks! Fascinating! For part two of The Living Circle experience, it just takes a very short train ride to Ascona in Ticino, Switzerland’s sun porch, and the Maggia Delta. Hotel Castello del Sole Main building and park of the Castello del Sole The Castello has been known for years as a luxury hotel on Lake Maggiore. Starting this season, a young wild one took up the kitchen apron and now wields the cooking spoons enough to make your palate reel! Chef Mattias Roock hit the road personally to find the best suppliers in Ticino for his French-Asian inspired cuisine. For goatlings, he dared to venture into the remotest Verzasca Valley; the twenty-year old vinegar he dusted off from an ancient Ticino attic; the best local quail he managed to get only after protracted negotiations that called on all of his Northern German Hanseatic charm! But, for most ingredients, Roock does not have to go far: either he harvests them right in the in-house subtropical garden or even in the hotel park. Or, with just a few more steps, he supplies himself from the adjoining estate, the Terreni alla Maggia. There he gets not only the local wine or rice for his polenta, but asparagus as well, and even the rice for that obligatory Ticino treat, asparagus risotto! Adding fish from Lake Maggiore, Roock sources so many ingredients locally that he devotes a separate menu to them. You can order this pleasure under the auspicious name of “sapori del nostro orto” (“flavors from our garden”). Highly recommended! For all the details on this palate pleaser, see our article on the Locanda Barbarossa restaurant. Terreni alla Maggia Under the Ticino sun, in the sandy soil of the Maggia Delta, grow all sorts of wondrous ingredients. Along with the Merlot, ubiquitous hereabouts, there grows the aforesaid exclusive gourmet risotto, “riso nostrano ticinese da risotto loto” (risotto rice ‘loto’), making this the most northerly cultivation area for it in the world! Local “loto” risotto rice from Terreni della Maggia Anyone who finds himself or herself in Ascona, stay in the Castello and make sure to stop in the Terreni alla Maggia food and wine shop, the Enoteca Alimentaria. Rustico del Sole Last, but far from least, The Living Circle offers a lofty exclusive: as arranged for guests by Castello del Sole hotel manager Simon Jenny, a rustic lunch at Rustico del Sole high above Lake Maggiore, very much in keeping with the “Best of Castello” motto. And because the lunch venue is located in difficult terrain in the forest above Brione, Jenny will charter a helicopter to whisk you up there as part of this unique experience! Lunch with a view It was too much (almost) for Katja’s nerves, as she bravely recounts in this retrospective. Many thanks for The Living Circle initiative! Well, what can we say but that we are smitten! Many thanks, Gratian Anda, for the invitation, and thanks to the local hosts for the tours of their establishments. We had some delightful conversations and were entertained in world-class fashion! Thanks also to Carla Loustalot with Castello Marketing and Caroline Wyss with Schlattgut Marketing for all the information and support they provided us. Hearty thanks also to Julia Faulhaber of Faulhaber Marketing for organizing the travel blogger events in Zurich and Ticino. You can find out all about The Living Circle concept here at www.thelivingcircle.ch Ah! Not to forget: Until October 20, 2017, the Zurich “steel worker” James Licini will exhibit his steel sculptures in the expanses of Castello del Sole’s hotel park. Early risers can expect to be treated to stirring sights like this: Steel stela by James Licini at sunrise ## Stellar skiing in Cardrona Alpine Resort Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/cardrona-alpine-resort-skiing Justine Tyerman sets a new tradition on her best day’s skiing ever at Cardrona Alpine Resort . . . Our pristine, blue-bird day at Cardrona. Picture by Jen Houltham Blood-curdling screams stopped me in my tracks as I came over the ridge at the top of Powder Keg. We were on our first run on a pristine, blue-bird day at Cardrona, the day after a massive snow dump late in the season, and my heart was singing . . . until I heard the screams. Below me lay a girl with her leg at a horrible angle, and a man in a tizz, not knowing what to do. I yelled up to a skier above me to raise the alarm at the base of the Captain’s lift, grabbed the man’s skis and erected them in a cross above the girl to alert others to the accident site while my husband skied down the slope to what looked like red-jacketed ski patrollers far below. As I debated whether to try to relieve the pressure on the girl’s leg by releasing her bindings, Mr Red Jacket himself appeared out of nowhere. Whew! Sam was one of those capable, outdoorsy Kiwi (New Zealander) blokes who are used to handling such dramas. Just the sound of his reassuring voice calmed the girl even before he promised her that pain relief was on its way. A minute later, Sarah, Cardrona’s mountain doctor, appeared followed shortly thereafter by another two ski patrollers with a stretcher. With the professionals on the scene and situation well in hand, I skied off, marvelling at the speed and efficiency of the emergency response on the mountain. Having skied at Cardona since its infancy 36 years ago, I was mightily impressed with how far things had come since those early days. It’s the safest of mountains with an excellent safety record. It puzzled me how the girl had managed to injure herself on such an open, obstacle-free slope with perfect snow and few other skiers. However, I skied a little more sedately than before but still had one of my best-ever days at Cardrona. Chris and Justine on a perfect day at Cardrona The mountain had a huge smile on its face that day – the sun was beaming down from a cloudless sky on slopes sparkling with late-season powder snow that squeaked underfoot and there was no wind, not even a zephyr, which is unusual for Cardrona. The mountain had a huge smile on its face that day The Eagles’ ‘Take it Easy’ was blasting from the PA system at Captain’s and the lifties were dancing while dispensing sunblock to over-excited skiers and boarders, in between sneaking off to take a run or two. My brand new Dynastars, on loan from my old friend Kazu at Outside Sports in Wanaka, were humming, and my boots were supremely comfortable after their annual trip to Paul, the Scottish boot doctor at the Wanaka shop. Cold start to the day. Justine with her new Dynastars on loan from Kazu at Outside Sports in Wanaka We even indulged in a glass of cider at lunchtime, breaking our long-held no-alcohol-while-skiing tradition. It tasted so good as we basked in the September sun, eating pizza and chips, we had another. Super-relaxed, I skied better than ever in the afternoon so cider at lunchtimes on sunny days with fresh powder will become the new tradition. Lunch at Captain’s Cafe No doubt there would have been a high degree of absenteeism amongst Wanaka workers that day so I chuckled to see the café staff wearing T-shirts with the words ‘Cardrona – promoting sick days since 1980’. Fresh snow creates a kind of mass lunacy in a community like Wanaka. At the mere mention of those magical words, snow-to-low-levels, people’s behaviour changes. They gather in groups to sniff the air and study the cloud formations, making wise prognostications about how much of the precious white stuff will fall, from which direction, what field will get the most, whether it will suit skis or snowboards best, and how early to hit the slope – before heading home to tune their gear. That morning, keen to be among the first on the mountain, we left home ridiculously early. The notice to fit chains to all vehicles including 4WD was right at the bottom of the road so I fully expected a white-knuckle trip up the mountain, and even considered jumping on the shuttle bus. But the road crew had been on the job all night and had the road in tip-top condition, graded and perfectly gritted. I was impressed to see a couple of Cardrona guys assisting people to fit chains which was an enormous help to some of the overseas visitors who were struggling with the notoriously tricky procedure. While other resorts were still digging out their carparks and lifts, Cardrona’s facilities were cleared of snow and fully operational by 9am. We already had lift passes so we snuck into the lowest carpark at the foot of the Valley View lift which now has a little café and toilets in a smart converted container. It was a déjà vu of the early days when there was just a small day hut where the extensive base complex now stands. The day was pure magic, the stuff of legends. We skied every possible on-piste and off-piste combination. Justine heading to Captain’s Basin Our last run of the season was the re-enactment of yet another tradition – Queenstown Return – a scenic glide along the cat-track on the Cardrona boundary, with breath-taking panoramas of row-upon-row of the Southern Alps and the entire Wakatipu Basin. In the distance, we could even see Arrowtown where I spent all my holidays as a child. Queenstown Return, the last run of the day As the sun set on a perfect day in the mountains, we had a glass or two of glühwein beside the roaring outside fire at the iconic Cardrona Hotel, another tradition after a day’s skiing. The blizzard returned overnight and it snowed heavily again. There were even wispy flakes falling to lake level in Wanaka. I went outside to watch the celestial pillow-fight and catch a few flakes. Born a Southerner, I took lungfuls of pure mountain air and eyefuls of alps to sustain me in the tame, green North Island landscape I now call home . . . until the next pilgrimage to my turangawaewae, my homeland. Cardrona Chondola * In time for the 2017 winter season which begins on June 10, Cardrona is unveiling a new $10 million Doppelmayr ‘chondola’, McDougall’s Express Chondola a lift combining eight-person gondola cabins and six-seater chairs. The new McDougall’s Express Chondola will be the first cabin-style lift on a ski area in New Zealand, replacing the existing McDougall’s Quad chairlift. The Chondola will increase the lift’s capacity by 150 percent, with an hourly uplift of 2,550 skiers, snowboarders and sightseers. The Chondola under construction FACTBOX: Justine skied courtesy of Cardrona Alpine Resort Outside Sports has shops in Queenstown, Wanaka and Te Anau. You can pick up your sporting gear at one shop and drop it off at another. So convenient. Justine travelled to Wanaka in a JUCY Casa Plus motorhome, warm and cosy regardless of the weather. ## JUCY SNOOZE HOTEL – Justine Tyerman snoozes in a ‘pod’ in Christchurch Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/jucy-snooze-hotel-christchurch I’ve stayed in many hotels and lodges around the world, from ritzy to rustic, but Snooze in Christchurch is the coolest of them all. The communal concept really appeals to me. Warm, welcoming, friendly and decidedly quirky, it fills a yawning gap at the affordable end of the Christchurch accommodation market. Walking distance from the airport, the accommodation complex, owned by New Zealand company JUCY, opened on November 1, 2016 and has already welcomed over 25,000 guests. Manager Anna Flores from Barcelona says the occupancy rate went from about 60 percent in the first few months to 85-90 percent at the start of this year and is now hovering around 80 percent. Manager Anna Flores from Barcelona who showed Justine around The 2-storey facility sleeps over 270 guests in a variety of formats. Snooze Accomodation The majority of the accommodation is made up of rooms with eight semi-enclosed ‘pods’, four at ground level, and four accessed by ladder. Each pod has a king-single bed with a comfy mattress, fitted lower sheet, pillow, duvet, light, fan, temperature control, mirror, power and USB points, free Wi-Fi, and blinds to enclose the space. Unlike the Asian sleeping capsule concept, the pods are surprisingly spacious with plenty of head room to sit up and move around. Underneath there’s a sizeable locker with a combination lock for secure storage. Simple, cosy, private and attractive to the eye, pods can be rented per night, per week or by the hour for travellers wanting to sleep between flights. Pod-dwellers share generous, immaculately-clean bathroom and shower facilities just down the hall. One of the pod rooms at Snooze. Justine checking out a pod at Snooze. Snooze also offers private single, twin, queen and family rooms with ensuite bathrooms. Cleverly designed to maximise the use of space, the super-comfortable beds are raised higher than usual off the ground providing ample room for bulky cases and packs underneath. Justine in one of the private bedroom suites. The rooms have a large flat screen TV in a wooden frame, a shiny white bathroom with a big mirror, roomy shower, great water pressure . . . and a hairdryer in the bedside cabinet with a note saying ‘It’s the little things that matter’. After two weeks on the road in a motorhome, I beamed at the hairdryer as if I had found a hidden treasure. Justine’s first hairdryer in two weeks. The decor is predominantly white which gives the rooms a clean, bright look but JUCY’s trademark colours pop up on the green doors and purple ‘proverbs’ on the walls like Why stop dreaming when you wake up?andWish it, Dream it, Do it. Shared kitchen and common room The ‘bonhomie’ in the shared kitchen and common room reminded me of the fun we’ve had in tramping huts over the years – travellers from all parts of the globe speaking many different languages, making new friends, cooking together, sharing food, wine and beer, swapping recipes and addresses, and planning the next stage of their adventures. The kitchen, with its long stainless steel bench, cookers, ovens, dishwashers and fridges, was abuzz with activity and animated conversation at dinner and breakfast times. Such a warm, congenial, colourful scene. It was heart-warming to see young travellers from countries whose leaders are not on good terms with each other ignoring the feuds and getting on so well together. The communal Snooze kitchen was abuzz of activity in the evening. Travellers sharing meals and conversation. The large high-ceilinged common room has a variety of dining, sitting, lounging and relaxing options including hammocks, a garden swing, comfy bean bags and oversized cushions. Wi-Fi is free and there are ample power points to recharge technology. During my stay, I noticed a collection of camping gear in one corner of the common room: sleeping bags, tents, eating and cooking utensils, fold-up chairs, a multi-plug board and even a couple of candles, all in good order. A note from Simon, Mieneke and Marjet said: ‘Free camping stuff. Everything is complete and works properly. Enjoy!’ To me, this seemed to typify the generous-natured ethos of the place. Justine checking out the Snooze common room. The Snooze common room has hammocks to relax in. The Snooze common room has hammocks to relax in. A garden swing in the Snooze common room. From Tuesday to Saturday between 3pm and 7pm, a JUCY travel consultant gives free advice and information about what to do and see around New Zealand. The weather was appalling while I was there so Mike was fully occupied, offering suggestions about what to do on a rainy day in Christchurch. JUCY travel consultant Mike offering some rainy day advice to a couple of travellers. Aotearoa/New Zealand – so much to see and do . . . The reception desk is manned 24 hours a day with friendly, knowledgeable, capable staff like Alannah who has been at Snooze since Day 1. There are also two booths providing a computerised check-in process. The reception desk is manned 24 hours a day with friendly, knowledgeable, capable staff like Alannah who has been at Snooze since Day 1. Snoozers also have access to luggage storage and a laundry with coin-operated washing machines and dryers. A free shuttle service runs at regular intervals between Snooze, JUCY Rentals and Christchurch Airport. Right next door to Snooze in Spitfire Square, there are cafes, bars, restaurants and a supermarket. Assistant manager Juan Barrera from Mexico says the majority of the guests come from Europe and Asia and are in their 20s and 30s although Snooze is also popular with older travellers and family groups. Assistant manager Juan Barrera from Mexico. The guests I chatted to raved about the Snooze concept with its informal, convivial, communal vibe. Solo travellers told me it’s a great place to make friends and find travel companions. There’s no such thing as loneliness here, they said. Travellers from all parts of the globe speaking many different languages, making new friends, cooking together. The whole place exudes personality, even the stairwell – it’s decorated with colourful murals depicting Christchurch street scenes. Artist Wongi Wilson calls them ‘Pockets of Awesome’. Pockets of Awesome murals by artist Wongi Wilson. Pockets of Awesome murals by artist Wongi Wilson. Pockets of Awesome murals by artist Wongi Wilson. FACTBOX Pods range in price from $30 and private rooms from $99 There’s a Snooze in Auckland and one planned for Queenstown www.jucysnooze.co.nz ## Explore New Zealand’s South Island Lake District by motorhome & e-bike Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/lake-district-south-island-motorhome-e-bike After our idyllic motorhome trip in late winter-early spring, we couldn’t wait to get back on the road again in late summer-early autumn. Travelling outside the peak holiday period at the change of seasons means there’s less traffic on the roads and the weather is usually more settled. Dirt road to Paradise amid spectacular scenery, 68km from Queenstown Our latest adventure began in Christchurch where we picked up two Kiwi-designed SmartMotion e-bikes from The Electric Bicycle Company and a self-contained motorhome from JUCY Rentals, nicknamed “Lucy” after the curvaceous lady on the outside. Recipe for freedom: a JUCY motorhome and SmartMotion e-bikes We joined forces with old friends Dave and Libby, who have a camper trailer, and spent the next two weeks cycling every day, working our way from Hanmer Springs in the north to Glenorchy in the south with two or three-night stops en route. Cycling the Kinloch to Greenstone Valley road – Dave, Libby and Justine Chris biking the Clutha River track Justine on the Clutha River track The highlights In the Hurunui district north of Christchurch, we biked forest pathways at Hanmer Springs and then ventured into the magnificent St James Conservation area with its massive scree slopes, sparkling rivers and vast, open spaces. In the MacKenzie Country, we rode alongside the deep turquoise canals that link lakes Tekapo, Pukaki and Ohau in the massive Waitaki hydroelectric power scheme. Whizzing along the smooth, flat, broad roads at 30kmh-plus was a huge thrill. In Wanaka, we cycled the scenic lakeside path to the start of the Millennium Track and the spectacular Clutha River loop track from the river outlet to Luggate and back, the only time I was outside my comfort zone. In places where the track was narrow, windy, rocky and had sheer drop-offs to the river below, I utilised SmartMotion’s clever pushing-up-hill mode. Justine biking in the Hanmer forest St James Cycleway with Dave a speck in the distance MacKenzie Country tussock land Our JUCY motorhome beside Lake Tekapo Justine cycling in a cycle lane from Lake Tekapo to Lake Pukaki Ridiculously famous Lake Wanaka tree The entire Wakatipu Basin including Arrowtown, Lake Hayes, Gibbston Valley, Frankton, Queenstown, Kelvin Heights and Jack’s Point is criss-crossed with a network of immaculately-maintained hiking and biking trails. We rode along the Arrow and Kawarau rivers to the famous Gibbston Valley wineries crossing a variety of historic suspension and purpose-built bridges. The trails have opened up stretches of the Shotover and Kawarau Rivers seldom seen except by jetboat. The tall poplars were dazzling in their autumn colours. The only time we were on the open road was from Kinloch to the Greenstone Valley along the shores of Lake Wakatipu. There we encountered one 4WD vehicle and a lone Frenchman named Hugo, who was walking the length of New Zealand on the 3000km Te Araroa Trail, The Long Pathway. Lake Wakatipu is seldom like a mirror but that day, the whole lake was glassy calm. The original A.J Hackett bungy jump on the historic Kawarau Bridge, Arrowtown to Gibbston Valley cycle trail Chris on the Edgar Bridge over the Arrow River en route to the Gibbston Valley Suspension bridge over the Clutha River Lower Shotover Bridge Kawarau River jet boat Kawarau River Lake Wakatipu was glassy calm on the day we cycled from Kinloch to the Greenstone Valley Lake Wakatipu on the Kinloch to Greenstone Valley road Chris and Justine at Bennett’s Bluff lookout, Lake Wakatipu The braided Dart River We also paid a visit to Paradise Trust Lodge to see the rebuild of the property after fire destroyed the historic homestead in 2013, a few months after we had stayed there on our first-ever cycling expedition. Matt and Kate Belcher’s Revolution Tours was an unforgettable experience in an astonishingly-beautiful area seized upon by Sir Peter Jackson as Middle Earth for his Lord of the Rings trilogy. Paradise Lodge after the 2013 fire. The three stone chimneys were kept as a poignant memorial to the original historic homestead. Lodge manager Mandy Groshinski showed us the painstaking work undertaken to restore the place and how they had retained the three stone chimneys as a poignant memorial to the original homestead. The bedroom-bathroom wing was untouched by the fire and the same high standard of boutique accommodation and gourmet cuisine that we enjoyed is available today. The local school donated a beautiful old building which is now used as the dining room. Following Mandy’s instructions, we cycled a loop track through the forest, past rustic cottages with outside baths and saunas to a vantage point high above the Dart River as it carves its way from deep within the Southern Alps. We watched Ngai Tahu Tourism’s Dart Jetboats thunder up the valley, shooting curtains of spray metres in the air as they thrilled their passengers with their 360 spins. Dart River jetboat We parked Lucy at Mrs Woolly’s super-friendly camp ground at Glenorchy, a temporary site while an impressive complex — New Zealand’s first sustainable net zero energy campground — is under construction next door. Mrs Woolly’s camp at Glenorchy First net zero energy campground Sustainability at Camp Glenorchy Head of the Lake activities booking centre at Glenorchy General store at Glenorchy General store at Glenorchy Chris exploring the food section Staff at Glenorchy general store While at Glenorchy, we took a day off cycling and went horse-riding with Dart Stables. It was a peaceful, scenic, relaxing amble along grassy country lanes and across the broad shingle flats of the braided Dart River. Towards the end of our trip, the first snow of the winter arrived, dusting the high peaks surrounding us. We parked at Round Bush campsite on the shores of Lake Ohau, intending to bike a section of the Alps 2 Ocean Trail. The mountains were shrouded in mist and the wind off the Southern Alps was bitterly cold so we gave up after an hour or so and headed for home. Thanks to Lucy’s super-efficient gas power, we had hot showers and prepared dinner in a cosy, warm environment without setting foot outside. Taking pity on a couple of young campers in a little tent under the trees, trying to cook outside on a tiny gas cooker, we asked them to join us – but they said they were happy doing their own thing. Next morning, they dismantled their saturated tent, packed their meagre belongings into a couple of saddle bags and pedalled off up the hill on the next leg of their quest to cycle the length of New Zealand. Chris happy with a simple dinner for two Hugo the Frenchman en route to the Greenstone Valley Now in our early 60s, we’ve done our days of roughing it in tents and riding leg-powered-only bikes. We now like a few creature comforts so a JUCY motorhome with a couple of e-bikes on the back is the ultimate holiday, offering freedom, flexibility and activity without sacrificing comfort, warmth and convenience – the ability to lead a nomadic life within the luxury of your own self-contained apartment on wheels is bliss. JUCY Motorhomes Travelling by motorhome is like living in a spacious, self-contained cabin on a yacht – you unpack once at the start of your trip and have access to your belongings at all times. Compared with travelling by car or coach where you are packing and unpacking whenever you move on, it’s stress-free and a great time-saver. You can stow your bulky luggage in the under-vehicle locker which holds two or three large suitcases as well as the picnic table and chairs provided by JUCY. Better still, you are the captain of your own ‘yacht’ and can determine which route to take every day. There’s no fixed itinerary or check-in, check-out times, and you can stop wherever and whenever the spirit wills, to cook, eat, sleep, use the bathroom, read, write, work on your laptop, watch a DVD, or just relax and dream. Chris happy at the wheel of the Fiat Ducato Bennett’s Bluff lookout beside Lake Wakatipu on the way to Glenorchy Paradise to Glenorchy road Round Bush DOC camping ground by Lake Ohau JUCY motorhome beside Lake Wanaka Paradise, 20km from Glenorchy Chris watching a cyclone closing in Autumn colours in Arrowtown Water powering through the penstocks at the power station on the Lake Pukaki to Lake Ohau canal Top of the JUCY Rental range, the Italian-made Casa and Casa Plus motorhomes have automatic transition and are powerful and easy to drive despite their substantial size. They are economical, using diesel rather than petrol, and are high off the ground with excellent visibility. With two or three generous-sized double beds, you can accommodate your children or friends. The heating is super-efficient so you can travel year-round in a warm, cosy ‘house’ regardless of the weather. It’s run by battery while the vehicle is moving; mains-power when plugged in at a camping ground or gas-powered when freedom camping. There’s even a booster to heat the water which is hot by the time you’ve had a beer or a glass of wine. With a fridge-freezer, pantry cupboards and full kitchen with oven and gas hobs, meals for hungry travellers are only ever minutes away. My husband Chris assured me the process of emptying the toilet was easy and completely odourless. The fully-sealed storage canister is accessed from outside the motorhome and JUCY supplies sachets that deodorise and sanitise the contents. Dump stations to dispose of ‘grey’ and ‘black’ water are well-marked all around New Zealand. We were astonished by the number of JUCY vehicles on New Zealand roads – cars, RVs, people-movers, campervans, motorhomes, trucks and buses. There’s a quirky kinship among the drivers. Every five minutes or so, there were waves, thumbs-ups, beaming smiles, and other extraordinarily friendly gestures from drivers and passengers approaching or passing us on the open road. We called it the JRW (JUCY recognition wave), brand bonding on a vast scale. JUCY even has a cruise ship on Milford Sound . . . and Snooze hotels in Auckland, Christchurch and soon Queenstown. Chris relished the Scoot Wi-Fi which enabled him to keep up with his emails and watch the news on his iPad in the middle of nowhere. Skiers and snowboarders will love JUCY’s Ski4Free winter deal which provides one free lift ticket at Treble Cone near Wanaka per day of rental. When we picked up our the motorhome in Christchurch, we were delighted to find a surprise awaiting us: a ‘Posh Nosh and Little Treats Gift Box’ loaded with goodies such as jam, peanut butter, coffee and tea bags, cookies, chocolate, wine, salt and pepper grinders and paper towels. Furthermore, after a week on the road, you get a free linen change in Auckland, Christchurch and Queenstown and a free valet service every fortnight. With the liberty to design your own flexible itinerary and move from one beautiful Aotearoa-New Zealand landscape to the next when you want to, there is no better way to travel. The only downside is handing back the keys at the airport. SmartMotion Electric Bikes Having two SmartMotion e-bikes strapped onto Lucy’s bike rack added to the giddy sense of freedom and excitement we discovered on our first motorhome trip last year. With a five-level pedal-assist function and a throttle to add extra oomph when needed, for the first time, I was able to keep up with my husband and explore rugged back-country terrain I have never been able to access before. Steep hills and long distances are no problem on an e-bike. We covered 50-60km a day which barely made a dint in the 36v15.6ah Samsung lithium ion battery. Justine taking a break at the top of a steep climb on the Clutha River track Justine at Peregrine winery Justine biking the Clutha River track Justine beside the Clutha River Chris biking along the vineyards Chris at the Clutha River E-bike on Lake Pukaki Justine in e-bike action You can get as much or as little exercise as you like, depending on which power mode you select. I had my setting on two for most of the time which meant I got a healthy amount of exercise without exhausting myself. What’s more, I was not lagging behind all the time, holding other people up. Where the tracks were too technical for my novice abilities – narrow, rocky or steep with sheer drops – I used the clever SmartMotion pushing-up-hill mode which is a god-send when you need to get a 25kg machine up a steep slope. Cycling purists tend to be scornful of e-bikes but they level the pedalling field for people like me who are not super-fit but still want an active, outdoor holiday. SmartMotion has an interesting history. Established by New Zealander Anthony Clyde in 2007, the company evolved from the development and deployment of mail delivery bikes for the New Zealand Postal Service. Clyde subsequently designed the SmartMotion range specifically for New Zealand’s varied and rugged conditions, the aim being to produce a durable bike with quality components at an accessible price. By late 2013, sales exploded and the brand became New Zealand’s top seller and best reviewed. We have now been designing our own e-bikes for six years and export to Europe, North America and Australia, says Clyde. There are eight models to choose from with several new models coming on stream this year including a full-suspension mountain bike. In 2013, Clyde sponsored Kiwi Catriona Williams on the first-ever hand-cycle ride by tetraplegics from Lhasa to Kathmandu via Everest base camp, a distance of more than 1000km including 10 Himalayan passes. A higher torque 300w system was developed for Catriona’s front, hand-driven wheel and the machine was powered by a larger battery. Catriona’s was the only e-bike to make it all the way without failure. She even towed one of the other trikes after it broke down on the climb to base camp. FACTBOX Transport: JUCY Rentals Casa motorhome www.jucy.co.nz E-bikes: SmartMotion electric bikes www.smartmotionbikes.co.nz Horse riding: Dart Stables at Glenorchy www.dartstables.com ## Sapori Ticino – Three ambassadors of fine Ticino cuisine come to Berne Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/sapori-ticino-fine-ticino-cuisine S. Pellegrino Sapori Ticino is a gourmet festival with star allure: 36 Michelin stars in total distinguish 21 chefs, each representing one of 21 deluxe hotels that themselves bear the five-star seal of approval. At 26 events throughout Switzerland, these emissaries present the exalted cuisine of Ticino. Three of them, however, took place outside Switzerland’s sunny southern canton. So, it came that in the city of Berne I, too, got the chance to reach for the stars! After the Dolder Grand Hotel in Zurich, next it was the turn of the Bellevue Palace in Berne before the feast would move to Geneva’s Le Richemond. In this version, the series of events is called “Serate Oltre Gottardo” (“Evenings beyond Gotthard mountain”). Dany Stauffacher, Sapori Ticino’s initiator and CEO, had invited a high-powered group of sponsors to cop a preview taste of the Ticino gourmet events. By some miracle, I had also received an invitation. Sometimes running a travel blog does come in handy ;-) So, I make like a discerning food blogger and try to blend in unobtrusively with the other guests. Walter acting like a keenly interested food blogger© www.steineggerpix.com & www.saporiticino.com 2017 / photo by Rémy Steinegger Photographers Rémy Steinegger and Carmen Sirboiu in action Fine and dandy, but with our giant telephoto lenses in front of our faces we do tend to stand out. But that at least they put us food bloggers all at one table is a good thing. This way, no one has to wait for us until we have the food porn in our shutter boxes… The Gault Millau Chefs The culinary arts this evening emanate from downstairs: While we are still studying how to compensate for the difficult lighting conditions, toiling in the canteen kitchen of the Bellevue Palace one floor below are three chefs that dazzle with Gault Millau points: Chefs Egidio Iadonisi from the Swiss Diamond Hotel in Vico Morcote, Andrea Bertarini from the Conca Bella in Chiasso, and Frank Oerthle from the Galleria Arté al Lago in Lugano. And soon, it’s kick off time! To simplify things, I will edit out here the many apéro tidbits we were served. There is still plenty of high quality to come… Case in point: the amuse bouche, a brittle-covered dough ball by Andrea Bertarini turns out to be a visual marvel: After I photographed it as a pristine sphere, I’m about to reach for knife and fork to please my palate, when I notice that my tablemate Carmen has broken hers open and is still photographing it. Oww!That looks even more appetizing! Since my own serving is already irredeemably and unphotogenically demolished, I make use of the already mentioned telescopic lens and, sheepishly smiling, lean over into Carmen’s plate. But then, we food bloggers have this mutual understanding ;-) Amuse bouche: Brittle-covered doughball with arugula and cream cheese Even better: the same brittle-covered dough ball but food-styled by tablemate Carmen So, I’m still able to enjoy the fine arugula and cream cheese. This little interlude furnishes plenty of fodder for small talk, so much so that we’re nearly taken unawares by the entree appearing. But, our cameras being practically never quite out of reach, we recover almost immediately and start clicking away. Egidio Iadosoni surprised us with red shrimp from Mazara del Vallo. Sensational, with caviar, burrata, and liquid salad(!) The entree: Shrimp from Mazara del Vallo The shrimp are practically raw. It is not everyone’s thing, as we notice around us. I, for one, find them very tasty. So much so, that afterwards I had to google where in the world this Mazara del Vallo might be? Aha, there it is: they are caught off southwest Sicily. Or maybe they farm them there; I can’t quite make out which. The entree: red Mazara del Vallo shrimp with caviar, burrata and liquid salad Whatever. Here comes the next course from Andrea Bertarini, who treats us to a risotto gran riserva gallo with “Bosco di Palli” asparagus (from Piemont), cocoa beans, and the obligatory lemon. This time, I can’t think of a clever perspective to make the fine dish visually interesting — even on Carmen’s plate. Somehow, it is just too round on the round plate. At this point, let it suffice to say that they know how to make risotto in Ticino. Even if the gallo is really an Italian, in the nearby Terreni alla Maggia by Ascona the Ticino people command their exclusive own area for growing the rice. We had Chef Mattias Roock of Castello del Sole in Ascona demonstrate the benefit this brings on another, spectacular occasion. Incidentally, on May 22, 2017, as part of Sapori Ticino, he will host Lionello Cera of the Antica Osteria Cera from Venice. Verdict on the main course: it’s hog heaven! As the evening’s high point, Frank Oerthle has prepared “the best of beer-fed pork.” Thus it is described on the menu. Finely arranged with creamy chorizo sauce and smoked potato foam. Even if you are not a beer lover, do not pass up pig that has been raised on beer yeast and its lees! You will be in hog heaven, guaranteed! The main course: beer-fed pork with creamy chorizo sauce and smoked potato foam Phuh! Let’s take a little break! The courses may be suitably light; but I have room left for just a small dessert at most… The final “rounding out”: dessert … and the dessert also comes to us in an unconventional guise: somehow, Lucas Meier, sous-chef at the Bellevue Palace, has managed to keep a transparent, wafer-thin ice shell ball from melting, apparently for all guests. This time, I watch Carmen’s sculpting skills before I destroy my serving. It’s possible to learn, after all… But, maybe I just don’t have the knack, or the ice melted too quickly, or I need more practice — in any event, Carmen once again has the more beautiful plate. With another “beg your pardon,” I lean over just a tad. The things we go through just for the sake of getting a clean report to our hungry readers… The iced ball with yuzu-woodruff seasoned zabaglione, mountain honey ice cream and red berries perfectly rounds out the meal. And threatens to turn me into a ball as well. The dessert: ice ball with yuzu woodruff, mountain honey ice cream and red berries I truly ought to pass up what comes next as the chocolatier from Cailler starts building his friandise towers. Well, I must confess, I did find one or two pieces irresistible in the end. You can’t be inhumane with yourself, after all… The Cailler chocolatier and Bellevue’s sous-chef building the dessert Friandises: chocolates by Cailler Sapori Ticino gatherings between April 3rd through June 18, 2017 The gourmet occasions of S. Pellegrino Sapori Ticino are recommended for everyone! The best way to enjoy them is to combine one or more with a restorative stay in Ticino, also known as Switzerland’s “sun porch.” …ah! before I forget, what with all the alcohol: the wine accompaniment naturally also comes from Ticino. To be exact, from Swiss Premium Wine! The four guys from Quattromani do a super job! From left: Chefs Egidio Iadonisi, Andrea Bertarini and Frank Oerthle Sapori Ticino Founder Dany Stauffacher (middle) and the four Quattromani vintners For booking one of the gourmet experiences, contact info@saporiticino.ch. Check out their program here. Prices range from CHF 70.- for the Lounge Nights and CHF 390.-, when Franck Giovannini of the Hôtel de Ville de Crissier showcases his 3 Michelin stars in Ticino. My thanks go to: Dany Stauffacher for organizing the event; highly successful! Paulo Zenz and Bruno Wirz of Barino Consulting for the fine invitation! and the stimulating table conversation ;-) A special thanks to host and hotel director Urs Bührer: he personally identified his colleagues in my photographs ;-) Also, a big thank you to Carmen Sirboiu of NewInZurich.com for generously making her food stylings available to me. Obviously, I still have much to learn here… And, finally, mille grazie also to Rémy Steinegger of steineggerpix.com for the snapshot! ## Locanda Barbarossa – farm to table in Switzerland’s Castello del Sole restaurant Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/locanda-barbarossa-restaurant-castello-del-sole A gourmet restaurant belongs in a luxury hotel. So far, so good. But what if the highly-decorated head chef retires and is replaced by a “young wild one“? The new man clued me in personally… Gourmet restaurant Locanda Barbarossa It was in the Locanda Barbarossa, afore-said gourmet restaurant belonging to Ascona’s Castello del Sole luxury hotel, where the widely praised Othmar Schlegel cooked himself to 18 Gault Millau points. Bravo, well played! Long dining table in Locanda Barbarossa Set dining table Table decoration by the house florist But, when Schlegel retired to his well-earned pension in early 2017, a successor had to be found. A worthy one, naturally…Putting his wide-ranging contacts into play, hotel director Simon Jenny found at the St. Moritz Kempinski a young man going places by the name of Mattias Roock. Local cuisine also means local suppliers Many big-name chefs boast of a “local cuisine.” So what if it is gussied up by the obligatory French haute cuisine element. But Roock, at all events, takes “local cuisine” a step further. Here in Switzerland’s sunbelt, in his “garden” on the fertile foothills of the Maggia Delta, the Terreni alla Maggia, just about everything grows: from white and red wine grapes to asparagus to corn for polenta, to homegrown rice (!) for the risotto. He sources everything from practically outside his front door. Besides other seasonings, the house garden is even supposed to yield lemons from the Japanese yuzu tree. Although it is totally sour, it is a rich-tasting addition for dishes and even the occasional dessert. Gregor Zimmermann in the Bellevue Palace in Berne, when he wants to come across as Mediterranean. --> The wild garlic is also homegrown: Roock can pick it right there in the spacious hotel parklands. Chef in his element: wild garlic growing on the hotel grounds Photo © Mattias Roock Decorated with 17 Gault Millau points himself, Roock is not above doing more than just checking the ingredients himself on the spot: from time to time, he will climb into the Maggia behind the hotel and collect stones on which to present his dishes! You can’t get more local than that… When Roock and his kitchen brigade put all the ingredients together, the result is a whole menu of locally-sourced cuisine. “Sapori del Nostro Orto” or “Aromas from our vegetable garden” Fittingly, even the gourmet local menu here begins with an amuse bouche. On his handpicked Maggia stones, Roock drapes a dry-cured ham from Alp Piora. Amuse bouche on a Maggia stone Fish for starters? In the case of Castello del Sole, “locally sourced” also means “Lago Maggiore“: it can comfortably be freshly-caught trout from the lake practically right next door. Prepared with cucumber, yogurt, radish and a shot of yuzu from the front garden, it makes for an outstanding appetizer! Appetizer: Lake trout from Lago Maggiore with cucumber, yogurt, radish and yuzu Essence of fine quail Logic would have it that Roock needs quail for the entree of Magadino essence of quail with wild herbs, agnolotti and peas. Problem: the best supplier from the Magadino Plain abolutely refused to deliver any. He merely said: Work with gourmet chefs and your grand kitchens is just too stressful! Roock had to be his totally refreshing and convincing self to change the stubborn quail man‘s mind. Am I glad! Soup ingredients before adding the Magadino essence of quail: wild herbs, agnolotti, and peas. Love those peas! The obligatory Risotto Ticinese For the risotto with green asparagus, Roock is clearly playing on home turf: not only does green asparagus grow on the Terreni alla Maggia and just any rice variety, but the gourmet rice marketed under the Riso Nostrano Ticinese da Risotto Loto brand. This long-grain variety is ideally suited for risotto and easily holds its own against other popular rice strains like Carnaroli or Arborio. Local Loto Risotto, green asparagus, white Merlot, Alp Piora cheese. On a Maggia stone… Main course from the Verzasca Valley For his gitzi (kid) that is famous even north of the Gotthard Mountains, Roock puts on his big rubber boots and sets out on the difficult trek into the remotest part of the Verzasca Valley, looking for the best possible supplier. Because hiding in this remote valley are the Nera Verzasca, a goat breed with special qualities… Executive Chef Mattias Roock (right) with gitzi farmer (middle) in Valle VerzascaPhoto © Mattias Roock The main dish arrives on the plate looking like this: Gitzi from the Verzasca Valley on wild garlic, red polenta and onions With it, the so-inclined reader imbibes a local wine from the Terreni alla Maggia. Goes without saying. We start with a “Castagneto,” a 2014 Chardonnay, then switch to a “Querceto,” a 2011 Merlot. Dessert with an extra kick After the amuse bouche had already served as a strong indicator of the fine-motor skills in the kitchen, they go to the next level with the dessert. Conveniently, Roock brought his chef-patissier David Potier with him from the Kempinski St. Moritz. To some, he’s the second most-important actor in the kitchen… David Potier and his troops give it their all, even with a shot of vinegar for the dessert! Of course, only in dribs and not just any vinegar, but a 20-year old found in an obscure Ticino attic: a passionate producer from Losone thought to accumulate vinegar as part of his daughters dowry. When things didn’t turn out with the wedding, he was left sitting on barrels of the excellent stuff. Roock followed his nose, tracked him down and convinced him to become his supplier… That’s the way it’s done! Chef Patissier David Potier prepping dishes of rhubarb dessert. With a shot of 20-year old vinegar! Dessert of rhubarb with vinegar from Losone, tarte, glace and ragout Just so no one spends too much time wondering: yes, the rhubarb, of course, comes from the garden… Friandises with the coffee Many thanks, Mattias Roock, for the informative kitchen tour and countless anecdotes :-) Walter Schaerer doing a taste test with Executive Chef Mattias RoockPhoto © Marina Cantafio of lovefoodish.com And, for those who may find all this appealing, but would like STILL MORE local color: give the hotel’s remote mountain rustico cottage adventure a go. You will have nothing left to wish for! Address Castello del Sole Hotel Via Muraccio 142 6612 Ascona Switzerland Visit the restaurant website. { "@context": "https://schema.org", "@type": "Review", "itemReviewed": { "@type": "Restaurant", "name": "Locanda Barbarossa", "image": "https://travelmemo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Locanda-Barbarossa-restaurant-Castello-del-Sole-Switzerland-11.jpg", "address": { "@type": "PostalAddress", "streetAddress": "Via Muraccio 142", "addressLocality": "Ascona", "addressRegion": "TI", "postalCode": "6612", "addressCountry": { "@type": "Country", "name": "Switzerland" } }, "telephone": "+41 91 791 02 02", "email": "info@castellodelsole.com", "url": "http://www.castellodelsole.com/en/gourmet/locanda-barbarossa", "priceRange": "$$$$", "servesCuisine": ["Mediterran"] }, "author": { "@type": "Person", "name": "Walter Schärer" }, "datePublished": "2017-05-07", "reviewBody": "In the gourmet restaurant Locanda Barbarossa they put all the ingredients together, the result is a whole menu of locally-sourced cuisine.", "name": "Locanda Barbarossa - farm to table in Switzerland's Castello del Sole restaurant", "reviewRating": { "@type": "Rating", "ratingValue": "5", "bestRating": "5" }, "publisher": { "@type": "Organization", "name": "travelmemo.com" } } ## NENI restaurant in 25hours Langstrasse – Zurich’s newest in-eatery! Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/neni-restaurant-25hours-hotel-langstrasse-zurich Zurich has a new NENI restaurant. It comes with a hotel: The 25hours Langstrasse, which sparkles not just because of its special location between the red-light district and Europaallee (Europa Avenue), its colorful design rooms and Kamasutra-themed bar, but also because of this restaurant serving Mediterranean fare with a Middle Eastern flair. But, don’t even think about spontaneously dropping in, especially evenings: ever since the opening, this is an in-destination and, for all practical purposes, booked solid! It was only fairly recently that the design oasis of the Hotel 25hours Langstrasse rose on the border between Zurich’s Europaallee and the red light district. Outside it, the still somewhat unfinished forecourt looks “urban” at best, if not to say ugly: scattered about the buckling asphalt stand “vintage” brand garden chairs, and you’ll search far and wide for shade. As I enter the building at the corner of Langstrasse and Lagerstrasse, a slight irritation sets in again: can this really by the official entrance to the hotel? A house cat fixes me in its stare while sunning itself comfortably on a luggage trolley. And what are those bags hanging from the concrete ceiling? It’s not Friday shopping night, is it? And what’s with the many kinds of exotic-looking colored luminaires? House cat on a luggage trolley Lobby hung with Freitag bags But, I really shouldn’t be surprised; after all, the design for 25hours Langstrasse sprang from the pen of Werner Aisslinger, the pro who did the interiors of the spectacular 25hours Bikini hotel in Berlin (read our review here). And designer Aisslinger goes for the “wild mix”! In Zurich, he might have found himself inspired by the contrasts between banks and the red-light district or between art and railway tracks. Makes sense, since “urban nomads” is the demographic targeted by the newly-opened hotel. It includes not just bankers but also creative types who make culture or artsy tourists. And hungry city dwellers! NENI Restaurant – congenial chaos NENI is the establishment and culinary concept of the Molcho family, originally from Tel Aviv. It is fielded by kitchen virtuoso Haya Molcho and her four sons, Nuriel, Elior, Nadiv and Ilan. The first letters of her son’s names go to make up the “NENI” name. In Tel Aviv, family and friends are an important part of life of city life and so they remain for the exuberant Haya Molcho. Her family’s Israeli, Romanian, and Spanish roots help shape her concept. At NENI, life revolves around shared dishes, passion and joie de vivre — in short, it is balagan, i.e. “congenial chaos.“ At the side table, the high-spirited Haya tests various dishes with her boys. It’s easy to see why the family motto is: Life is beautiful. Be part of it! There are already successful NENI restaurants in Vienna, Berlin, and Hamburg. In Zurich, along with the Middle Eastern meze of hot and cold dishes, premium meats from the glowing hot Josper grill are supposed to delight. In fact, they do so excellently! Not only are we gaga over them, but also over the attentive service by Anke, our server seconded here from the Berlin NENI to break in her new Zurich colleagues. Anke of the 25hours Bikini Berlin NENI Restaurant NENI in neon in the hotel restaurant Table with the construction site look Hors d’oeuvres of olives with pita Sabich is a street food specialty from Tel Aviv The NENI restaurant’s open kitchen NENI restaurant tab and the Molcho family Haya Molcho with three of her four sons in the hotel kitchen Night time view from Zurich’s NENI restaurant Be sure to make your evening reservations here! The restaurant has enjoyed great popularity from Day One! Hotel 25hours Langstrasse – the restaurant comes with a hotel To be sure, bare concrete in the red-light district is not everyone’s thing. Moreover, since the Cinchona hotel bar is decorated with an outsized Middle Eastern love scene. But, bear in mind that 25hours CEO Christoph Hoffmann and hotel director Anita Vogler after all envisioned it as a design hotel for the daring… Challenge accepted! Daredevils that we are, Katja and I thus bedded down to listen into the urban night in the colorfully-decorated hotel room. Katja and Walter in the elevator of the 25hours Langstrasse Shower with a view Bathroom View through the shower There was not much to be heard in the hotel room until the alarm clock sounded the next morning to remind us of the task that we had set for ourselves: testing the Middle East-inspired breakfast buffet… But, not before I get under the rain shower first. So what if the shower head is not quite the size of a satellite dish, like the one in the Vals Thermal Spa? The shower stall still measures almost 2 meters across diagonally; it must be one of the largest of its kind. And it’s all glassed in. Fantastic! Wide awake and fresh, we set to the ample breakfast buffet. For “normal guests,” there are the usual muesli, bacon and eggs and the like. But, adventurers that we are, we go for something Middle Eastern: Having been turned on to the taste of menemen (a dish of eggs and tomatoes) for breakfast in Istanbul, this time I went for the shosushka! The Israeli variant of this egg dish measures up in every way. But, that said, shouldn’t the skillet really be the same size as the shower head? Well, ok; the portion in any event is enough to let me survive until lunch… NENI restaurant breakfast buffet Mashawsha: Garbanzos and avocado from the breakfast buffet Shoshuka egg and tomato dish for breakfast Invigorated, we finally tore ourselves away to dive into the commercial bustle in the design oasis conceived by the Zurich architectural studio E2A. Like Pia Simmendinger, who heads up PR for E2A, we are curious how the district’s social scene will change: Will the 25hours hotel crowd, district residents, the red-light district denizens, the business people and Googlers hit it off? Add to the urban mix that the KOSMOS Culture Center right next to the 25hours hotel is slated to begin drawing visitors starting in September 2017… Address Restaurant NENI Zurich in 25hours Langstrasse Hotel Langstrasse 150 8004 Zurich To the restaurant’s website Warm thanks! Hearty thanks to Anita Vogler for the invitation! Thanks also go to Anke and the Molcho family for the memorable description of the restaurant’s business background: the chefs were trained at the Molcho headquarters in Vienna, some even flown to Tel Aviv to really absorb the culture in authentic fashion! Also, a great thank you to Pia Simmendinger for filling us in on the new construction for her architectural studio! Lamp shade in the lounge Lobby with kiosk Corridor with knitted room numbers Cinchona Bar with Middle Eastern love scene Stairs to restrooms in the basement Basement staircase ## Rustico Castello del Sole – Lunching between Heaven and Earth Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/rustico-castello-del-sole-ascona Bond’s bungee jump from the 220-meter high Verzasca Dam – who doesn’t remember it? However, we would just as soon not book this ultimate adrenaline rush by Lago di Vogorno — because a helicopter ride to “Rustico del Sole,” a restaurant located a scant 5 km as the crow flies from the dam, is no less spectacular! The by-now legendary “James Bond” Verzasca dam This time around we are lodging in the Castello del Sole in Ascona, where they specialize in spoiling their guests all day long. Living up their motto “Best of Castello,” a noontime excursion to the hotel-owned Rustico is on offer, for a rustic dining experience in what might be called difficult terrain. Not unexpectedly, Walter is head over heels for the idea, with me trailing along behind to keep him out of getting into too much trouble. But let’s take it one step at a time… The Rustico – a country cottage counterpoint to your usual 5-star hotel – sits at an altitude of nearly 1,000 meters, offering a breathtaking view that sweeps from the dam over the Maggia delta all the way to Lago Maggiore with its famous Brissago islands. The only way there is by helicopter. Or on foot, to be sure. But, hey, even James Bond would not have hiked up, but, true to type, would have let himself be lofted to those heights by an aircraft. Hence, a ride in a Swiss Helicopter whirlybird awaits us now on the Castello del Sole’s own heliport. Let the airborne adventure begin! Pre-flight prep for destination Rustico del Sole (From left) Hotel manager Jenny briefing Swiss Helicopter pilot and ground crew Damiano Talleri, the ‘Hollywood in Ticino’ guy, as we will learn from the video… By Helicopter to Rustico del Sole Once hotel manager Jenny has issued his final instructions, the action starts. Walter, complete film studio strapped to his back, readies himself as if he will be directing the next James Bond film. Whew… only pure chance keeps the helicopter’s rotor wash from whipping his huge directional mic past his ears! Helicopter landing at Castello del Sole Walter with a film studio on his back up front and close to the action All right, with everyone’ strapped in, off we go! Once we are all strapped into our seats, the pilot lifts off. We fly over Ascona and Locarno toward Brione above Minusio. As Walter catches sight of the Verzcasa Dam, he is fully caught up in the fantasy! I, on the other hand, sit there mute with the jitters as I see the pilot heading straight for the mountain on which the Rustico sits. Where, for heaven’s sake, is there room for him to put the machine down? Will we, in fact, have to bail out of the helicopter like Bond with a parachute? When he typically doesn’t even wear a chute? I can already see myself over the abyss hanging on for dear life to the helicopter skids. But, with my fellow flyers acting all enthused, I, too, pretend I’m cool with it and force a smile. No doubt, Bond will materialize to rescue me – or maybe he won’t? After the accomplished landing, first I need a drink, now please, and make that stirred, not shaken! Apéro served with view of Lago Maggiore The cliff-edge Rustico helipad Culinary Flights of Fancy Host Antonio Ferriroli and the Castello del Sole team around chef de cuisine Mattias Roock are all smiles already waiting for us. In these lofty environs (no electricity!) they have prepared a traditional meal from regional ingredients. First, they serve up delicious Ticino antipasti, before dishing out for us a ragout with polenta from Castello del Sole’s own Terreni alla Maggia estate. Castello del Sole chef de cuisine Mattias Roock at the Rustico You could not ask for a more idyllic sun terrace than this Lunch with a view The Terreni alla Maggia estate is known not only for growing maize and for being the only area in Switzerland where rice is cultivated, but also for its nearly 26 acre vineyard where agronomist Fabio del Pietro oversees cultivation of Merlot grapes and other flavorful varieties like Kerner, Chardonnay, and Bondola. Rosso del Ticino from the Terreni alla Maggia Ha! Bond would never have the time to indulge in a leisurely lunch at such an idyllic place. Whereas I do! And, while I’m at it, I am not going to pass up the fine apple cake prepared by chef de cuisine Roock from his grandmother’s recipe! Fine apple cake, grandmother-style Brewing coffee without electricity… Wine and grappa from the Terreni della Maggia We are told that, next year, they plan to expand the Rustico so that the exclusive retreat can accommodate up to six overnight guests by 2018. But, for now, we let Swiss Helicopters take us back to Ascona and the Castello. Taking off in direction valley It goes without saying that the excursion to Rustico is not included in the standard room rate. And let it be understood that it is not inexpensive either. But hey, then Bond had the government to pick up his tabs… Our Thanks go to… …Simon Jenny, manager of the Castello del Sole Ascona, for the generous invitation, and to Julia Faulhaber of Faulhaber Marketing Services for organizing this travel experience! Sincere thanks also to FeiyuTech for the SPG Smartphone Gimbal: the sequences shot with smartphone on the run “Hollywood in Ticino” style using the gimbal really turned out impressively well. ## Dave and Emma’s house — our TV Star Setting Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/dave-and-emmas-house-our-tv-star-setting The occasion was our annual get-together, a time when our daughters fly in from far-away places to reconnect as a family. We chose Auckland’s West Coast beaches because the region is close to the city and none of us had ever been there before. Just 50-60 minutes’ drive from the airport, it was easy for us to collect our far-flung family and run away for a long weekend. Our team half way up Lion Rock Bridget and Jeremy on the deck overlooking the Waitakere Ranges at Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap house Accommodation was scarce at the height of the summer, but thanks to my membership of the international home swap club, Love Home Swap, and our super-efficient, friendly concierge Dalton, we found the ideal place, perched on the ridge between Piha and Karekare beaches. I’ve always been strongly attracted to symmetry so the visual impact of Dave and Emma’s house was an instant hit with me. The two cubes of different heights, the larger, taller one resting on the smaller, lower one, with a square void in between, creates a striking silhouette. The aesthetics of the house have attracted the attention of film-makers too. Used as a set in the TV series 800 Words, the place has celebrity status! Living there, we felt like TV stars. I loved the silvery Lawsons cypress of the cladding and the Australian blue gum decking that runs right through the centre of the house Sunrise at Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap house Comfy bean bags, built-in seating and a wood-burning fire create a snug, intimate feeling in the lounge White leather couch in the sitting area The kitchen-dining space at Dave and Emma’s house Garden view of Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap house I loved the silvery Lawsons cypress of the cladding and the Australian blue gum decking that runs right through the centre of the house, providing a large expanse for outside living on both sides. The front north-facing deck leads to a tropical sun-filled garden and outside dining area with a massive macrocarpa table, while the back deck is suspended above the moody Waitakere Ranges with the black sands of Karekare Beach shimmering in the distance. Made famous as the backdrop for the 1993 Academy-Award-winning movie The Piano, Karekare was recently voted one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. On cooler evenings, Dave and Emma get a lot of use out of their chiminea on the sheltered front decking while the spa pool beside the rear decking is their favourite relaxation spot in winter. The covered passageway between the two cubes, which shelters the fire engine red main entry on one side and the laundry/bathroom/bunkroom complex on the other, frames the Waitakeres and the sky like a living artwork. Substantial glass doors can be swung into place to enclose the passageway and provide shelter in wet or windy weather. Designed by Tim Dorrington of Dorrington Atcheson Architects, the house was sturdily built to withstand the rigours of a growing family. The polished concrete floors, black laminate kitchen cabinets, Strandboard staircase and low-maintenance garden with natives such as ferns and flax are hardwearing and easy-care. A huge macrocarpa servery board, hand-made by Dave, sits on the recycled oak kitchen island, to protect the timber. The main workbench is stainless steel against a wall/splashback of dark green tiles. A dining and living area with an eight-seater wooden dining table and a six-seater white leather L-shaped couch and coffee table adjoins the kitchen space. The kitchen, living and dining area steps down to a cosy, carpeted lounge with panoramic windows overlooking the wooded Waitakeres and Karekare Beach. An impressive TV/home entertainment centre lines one wall while comfy bean bags, built-in seating and a wood-burning fire create a snug, intimate feeling. Upstairs, two spacious, airy bedrooms and balconies facing north and south have magnificent views of Piha and Karekare. But the main bathroom, located between the two bedrooms, has arguably the most spectacular outlook of all. With windows to the ceiling, lounging in the bath or showering in the walk-in glass enclosure is a sublime and dreamy experience which can run away with far too much precious rain water in dry summer weather. A favourite spot for reading and relaxation is the lower deck at the rear of the house with a pair of S-shaped recliners. You feel as though you are floating above the Waitakere Ranges. It was the ideal location for our family to rebond after too long apart. With ample space to spread out on the deckings and in the garden and living areas, a cleverly-designed kitchen that accommodated all the would-be chefs, a well-stocked pantry with free use of all the basic ingredients, indoor and outdoor dining options, a relaxing spa pool and views to die for . . . the place was welcoming and had a feeling of freedom, warmth, airiness, light, tranquillity. Chris and Sophie having fun in the kitchen at Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap house Chris preparing lunch at Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap house The main workbench is stainless steel against a wall-splashback of dark green tiles Stylish kitchen FACTBOX Justine Tyerman stayed at Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap property. Visit Love Home Swap to view over 100,000 properties in 150 countries! Getting there: JUCY Rentals. The sphinx-like rock formations at Mercer Bay Sophie and Bridget at The Gap Sophie and Bridget at Te Ahua Point Lookout Sophie and Bridget at The Gap View of Lion Rock from the Tasman Lookout View of Piha from the Marawhara Track View of Taitomo Island from the Tasman Lookout Track The Watchman at Karekare Beach Justine at Te Ahua Point Lookout ## Love Home Swap — I Love It! Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/love-home-swap-at-the-tv-star-set I joined Love Home Swap in 2013 and Dave and Emma’s house is one of many fabulous private homes we’ve stayed at around the world. We stayed five nights and paid precisely nothing . . . unless you take into account the beer and nibbles we shared with owners, Dave and Emma, who joined us for a chat one evening. That’s one of the awesome things about Love Home Swap – you make new friends wherever you go, people who not only entrust you with their lovely homes but also introduce you to their communities and networks, and give you the inside goss on where to wine, dine, hike and sightsee. Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap house. Picture © by Emma Shand Dave, an advanced para-medic and former Piha lifeguard, and Emma, who works for the design label Sabatini, were delightful company with a wealth of knowledge about the area. We felt like celebrities after they told us we were living in a film set for the new TV series 800 Words which screens on TVNZ1 on Sunday evenings. When they approached us to use our house, we thought it would be a pretty cool thing to do, says Dave. Little did we know they would take over the entire street with their trucks and gear which caused a bit of grief with the neighbours. They strip the house bare and fill it with all their own furnishings. Sometimes they leave things behind which is a bonus! We’ve kept in touch with many people we’ve met through Love Home Swap over the years – Chantal in Santorini, Niko in Crete, Melissa and Mark in the French Alps, Anne in the Swiss Alps, Catherine at Palm Beach (Australia) and Kate and Doug in Wanaka. The ‘stays’ are managed by an exchange of points, a form of currency, rather than an actual home swap, although that’s always an option. It often does not suit members to swap simultaneously so the points system provides the flexibility and freedom to stay wherever and whenever you choose. Dave and Emma earned 750 points for the five nights of our stay which they can ‘spend’ anywhere in the world at a time that suits them. Keen surfers, they may well turn up on our doorstep in Gisborne some day. Dave and Emma’s house deck overlooking the Waitakere Ranges ## The lowdown on Love Home Swap – Interview with CCO Ben Wosskow Source: https://travelmemo.com/interview/love-home-swap-lowdown The concept of home swapping has always appealed to me so I took the opportunity to meet UK-based Ben Wosskow, Chief Commercial Officer of Love Home Swap, when I was last in London. Dave and Emma’s New Zealand Love Home Swap house Ben, when was Love Home Swap established and why? Ben Wosskow: Love Home Swap was set up in 2011 by my entrepreneurial sister Debbie Wosskow. The idea for the company came after Debbie experienced a particularly bad and expensive family holiday – from this and with a little inspiration from home-swap rom-com The Holiday, Love Home Swap was created. The aim of the company is to help thousands of people to experience better holidays through the power of swapping. How many members, properties, countries and staff are involved now? We currently have 100,000 plus properties listed in 150 countries, with a team of around 50 people based out of our London HQ. Why is it so popular? One of the main reasons why home swapping is so popular is the amount of money that is saved on holidays. Our members save an average of 90 percent on their accommodation fees (around $3,500 per swap). Not only is home swapping excellent value for money, it can also be a lot more comfortable and a lot more fun compared with traditional accommodation options. Love Home Swap allows for more authentic holiday experiences too – many of our members enjoy living like a local when they’re away. New services and products? Our innovative Points system makes home swapping even easier for our members – taking away the need to match exact dates and locations. We have also recently launched our iPhone app, which has been a big hit and has been featured by Apple on the iTunes store in 100 plus countries worldwide. Plus we’ve recently introduced our new Traveller + tier, which includes accidental damage and trip cancellation protection for every swap (plus a range of additional travel perks) in order to give members extra peace of mind when they travel. Extra membership benefits? We offer a wide range of extra benefits for our higher tier members with special offers from hand-picked partners including La Belle Assiette, Touriocity, Get My Boat, WeSwap and more. With Get My Boat, Love Home Swap members can enjoy a special concierge service for free. We’ve seen explosive growth at Love Home Swap over the past 12 months – with more and more holidaymakers looking to stay in homes rather than traditional travel options, as peer-to-peer travel becomes part of the mainstream says Ben. Our Swap Points system is a big part of this – we’ve transformed the home swapping experience by making it even easier for members to travel without needing to match dates and timings. With the recent launch of our new iPhone app, we’ve also made it possible to agree swaps on the move – something members have been wanting for a long time. We’re expecting an exciting 2017 ahead, with lots more developments to come we continue to grow our community of home swappers around the world. Here’s a statement by Debbie Wosskow on why they launched Love Home Swap. FACTBOX Visit Love Home Swap to view over 100,000 properties in 150 countries! ## On the Wild Side — Auckland’s West Coast Lifeguards don’t sit in a Tower… Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/auckland-west-coast-lifeguards Justine Tyerman finds high drama and spectacular landscapes at Auckland’s West Coast beaches. Piha and Auckland’s wild West Coast beaches Lifeguards at Piha Beach don’t sit in a tower – these guys stand knee deep in the water with their IRBs (inflatable rescue boats) and rescue tubes at the ready, on high alert, constantly scanning the surf. Lifeguards at Karekare Beach The Watchman island off Karekare Beach. © Auckland Council Piha Beach reflections. Picture by Luke Harvey, Auckland Council We were wandering along the beach after a day’s hiking when the sirens rang out. The lifeguards leapt into their IRBs, gunned the engines and got airborne off the mountainous waves as they roared out to rescue a swimmer in distress. They hauled a youngster out of the sea and thundered back to shore where they worked frantically to resuscitate the figure sprawled motionless on the sand. Emergency services were soon on hand and the ambulance sped off. Conditions were so unpredictable that day, the lifeguards lowered the flags and ordered everyone out of the water. This was our introduction to Piha and Auckland’s wild West Coast beaches. Having watched the television series, Piha Rescue which features the courageous deeds of the local lifeguards, we knew we were in for an adventure but what we did not bargain on was being transported to a place of such drama and spectacle, we were sensorially overloaded the whole time we were there. Rescue services at Piha Beach Lifeguards at Piha Beach The flags down and the beach closed after a rescue at Piha The lifeguard’s vehicle at Karekare Beach The landscapes confront the senses – the ferocity of the waves; the texture and colour of the black pearl sands; the staggering height of the cliffs and rocky headlands; the beauty of the waterfalls; the cool, verdancy of the nikau palm forests; the vast, empty expanse of the Tasman Sea; the dark, misty Waitakere Ranges; and the dazzling fire of the West Coast sunsets . . . such a novelty for East Coasters who, by virtue of geography, specialise in sunrises over the ocean. The people are different too – super-friendly, relaxed and slightly eccentric. View of Karekare Beach from Coman’s Track © Auckland Council The view from Lion Rock showing Taitomo Island The view from Lion Rock showing North Piha Silver surf and black sands at Karekare Beach Sunset over the Tasman Sea with Taitomo Island on the left Hiking the Hillary Trail We spent our days hiking sectors of the magnificent 76km Hillary Trail that runs from the Arataki Visitor Centre in the Waitakere Ranges to Muriwai Beach. The trail is named in honour of Sir Edmund Hillary who came to the rugged Waitakere Ranges to prepare for his Everest expeditions. His family have had a holiday bach at beautiful Anawhata Beach since 1925. In four days, we chocked up a sizeable chunk of the trail, all the way from Whatipu to Anawhata. In the past, we’ve lugged ridiculously-heavy packs around back country huts but this time we did it the cruisy way, returning to a luxurious home-base every night and a fridge stocked with delectable food and wine. I was never brave enough to wade more than knee-deep in the turbulent surf at Piha but we found the perfect alternative. The Blue Pool at The Gap, a deep sandy, swimming hole sheltered from the sea by rocky headlands, was replenished every day by the tide and provided a delightful, safe spot to cool off after a long day of hiking in the heat. Heading up the Zion Hill Track View of The Gap and Blue Pool from the Tasman Lookout Track Taitomo Island from Lion Rock Pretty Kitekite Falls The steep descent from Kitekite Falls The Hillary Trail A Maori carving of the ancestress Hinerangi at Te Ahua Point The cliffs at Te Ahua Point The Keyhole in Taitomo Island View of Nun Rock from the Marawhara Track Walking back along the beach after Marawhara-White-Laird Thomson circuit View of Piha Beach en route to the Tasman Lookout Mercer Bay from the Hillary Trail walkway Karekare Beach and the Watchman island off the coast FACTBOX Justine Tyerman stayed at Dave and Emma’s Love Home Swap property. Visit Love Home Swap to view over 100,000 properties in 150 countries! Getting there from Auckland, New Zealand: JUCY Rentals. ## The ghost of Schauenstein Castle — outclassed by star chef Andreas Caminada Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/ghost-schauenstein-castle-restaurant-chef-andreas-caminada Schauenstein Castle (“Schloss” in German) in the village of Fürstenau (Swiss Graubünden canton) provides the backdrop for star chef Andreas Caminada and his out-of-this-world culinary arts. A lesser known bit of local lore has it that a specter haunts the castle, consumed by wanting to wield the cooking spoon in Caminada’s gourmet restaurant. I had to get the full story… On the drive to Schloss Schauenstein up in the Domleschg valley, past all those Graubünden castles of both the intact and ruined type, we can’t help but ruminate if Schloss Schauenstein really is haunted and if it indeed has a full-fledged castle ghost? Like they do in so many other castles? While we’re still on the autobahn, Wikipedia enlightens us that Schloss Schauenstein dates to the year 1670 and cousins Rudolf and Johann Rudolf von Schauenstein. Or at least the name dates from then; the castle had been owned even earlier by the Catholic bishop of Chur. By the time we arrive for lunch prepared by the world-renowned star chef Andreas Caminada, we are all prepped for a goodly portion of history. And some late Middle Ages groove, because the photos on the Schauenstein website shine with old-style wooden striped armchairs. Schauenstein Schloss Restaurant When we enter the castle garden, we are startled to make the acquaintance of assorted mysterious sculptures. All of them seem to allude to the castle ghost. It feels totally like we have landed on the set of that popular movie, “The Little Castleghost.” Schauenstein Castle Castle garden sculpture Casting nervous glances over our shoulders, we ascend the stairs to the piano nobile, peer into the massive front door only to be suddenly welcomed with open arms while the door swings shut behind us. But it’s ok: not a ghost anywhere in sight. We breathe a sigh of relief! It dawns on us that we might have gotten a little too worked up about the ghost story. We are whisked into one of the restaurant’s two dining rooms. The decor is muted in a refined and elegant way. A young woman appears at our table to ask if we would like some water. It is only later, when she unlocks the riches of the castle’s wine cellar for us with her corkscrew, that we will discover she is no lesser a personage than sommelière Anna Jung. But, now I ask her who by chance would be cooking for us today. As a well-traveled gourmet blogger, I know all about the super-busy star chefs who command several restaurants but can’t be in all of them at the same time, consequently they rely on their respective sous-chef to do the honors instead. Anna seems puzzled by the question and only responds that, as usual, the kitchen brigade is at its full complement of 13 staff. I don’t press the matter. After all, I just walked in. But, I plan to find out sooner or later who did duty at the stove. I doubt it was the castle ghost… Let the feast begin. It starts with a quick succession of amuse-bouches. We knew what to expect, as we chose the 4-course menu and resisted the seductive 5-course menu. Still, I quickly loose track as the many different apéro tidbits in all colors and at various temperatures materialize. I am grateful that, besides the waitstaff, we have place cards to enlighten us what all the marvelous formed and frothy delicacies they serve to us are. Next follow two courses of hors d’oeuvres. They are pleasingly small, so that we don’t ruin our appetites for our 4-course meal. Because it hasn’t even started yet! Obviously, the kitchen crew knows what it is doing: Not only do the highly-decorated plates arrive at the table tasting of 19 Gault Millau and 3 Michelin Stars, the timing of the courses is completely in phase with ours! Entryway in Schloss Schauenstein Water bottle with wine glasses Bell pepper tartelette Caminada style tacos Announcing the next course: amuse-bouche 1 First amuse bouche pumpkin and dried pear Caminadas classic dish from 2008: Longust and lemon Another view of the longust Beef tatar with topinambour and truffle Local lamb with onion and mushroom Zander with fennel, tarragon and spinach Apple dessert with joghurt and cinnamon The other restaurant dining room In a class by himself – Andreas Caminada The appetizers and main dishes taste — dare I even whisper it? — out of this world. After all that eating delight, even before coffee and its pralines, I ask if I might take a couple of snapshots of the kitchen. I’m racked with curiosity about who so heroically executed Caminada’s menus for us today! But, then — before I can get out of my chair — there he stands! In the middle of the room. The man himself: Andreas Caminada, superstar! One of the world’s top 50 chefs. In the flesh! Katja nearly swoons as he walks over to our table to greet us, but she manages to pull herself together reasonably quickly. And so, it came to pass that I could ask the lord of the castle in person about the spooky castle wraith. Just as a feeble joke, nothing more. But Caminada comes back immediately with: Our castle ghost? Pantaléon? Of course he’s here! Gulp?! Furtively looking over his shoulder and whispering, he entrusts his latest project to us: Caminada Documenta, his semi-annual recipe magazine. Quickly, I flip through it. And, yes, indeed! Author Gion Mathias Cavelty tracked down Pantaléon, the 500-year old castle ghost. An ominous feeling takes hold of me as I read that Pantaléon is mad as hell at Caminada and has had it with playing second fiddle to him. Allegedly, he is plotting to dethrone him so that he can once more wield the cooking spoons in the castle. Well, let’s just hope that the house blessing plaque is not out of whack! The kitchen and Schloss Schauenstein values:team, respect, responsibility, integrity, fun! Swiss precision at work Busy cooks in the kitchen Sous-chef Ollie Schuiling Andreas Caminada with Walter and the new magazine But, let us at last proceed to the coffee and pralines! Preferably, on the upper floor, either in the bar or the smoking lounge, depending on smoking preference. Colorful lounge décor Bar in the lounge Elegant lounge in the upper floor Stylish lamp in the lounge The smoking lounge Reflecting humidor Decorative candle in the lounge René Salzmann serves friandises with the coffee Tempting friandises Candles and their friandises Fruit jelly and chocolate Lollipop for coffee A man’s haunted castle is also his…hotel We purposely showed up for lunch, thinking that we could indulge more at that time of day than in the evening. But that was because of two things we had no inkling of: For one, you do not stuff yourself here; instead, even after uncounted courses, you still feel light as a feather. Second, the hotel rooms warrant much better than my earlier shorthand attributes of “wooden” and “striped,” when they are, in fact, “generous designer suites“! Simply sensational, how a 500-year old guy like Pantaléon has ensconced himself here under the castle roof! It doesn’t get much better than this, for spooks or us more solid types. Sofa in the lobby area Staircase in the castle Mystical stairwell The “Fire” room Another castle suite The “Chestnut” room The Tower Suite’s bathroom Living room and bedroom in the Tower Suite The Tower Suite’s bedroom Bravo, bien joué! Address For anyone ready for the ghost hunt: Schloss Schauenstein Restaurant Hotel Schlossgass 77 CH-7414 Fürstenau Switzerland Telephone: +41 81 632 10 80 Email: kontakt@schauenstein.ch Reservations: schauenstein.ch Listed among The World’s 50 Best Restaurants { "@context": "http://schema.org/", "@type": "Review", "itemReviewed": { "@type": "Restaurant", "address": { "@type": "PostalAddress", "addressLocality": "Fuerstenau", "addressRegion": "Graubuenden", "postalCode": "7414", "streetAddress": "Schlossgass 77", "addressCountry": "CH" }, "name": "Schauenstein Castle Restaurant", "openingHours": [ "Th-Su 12:00-17:00", "We-Su 19:00-24:00" ], "priceRange": "$$$$", "servesCuisine": [ "Modern French" ], "email": "mailto:kontakt@schauenstein.ch", "image": "https://travelmemo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Swiss-gourmet-restaurant-Schloss-Schauenstein-24.jpg", "telephone": "+41 81 632 10 80", "url": "https://www.schauenstein.ch/restaurant" }, "author": { "@type": "Person", "name": "Walter Schärer", "@id":"https://travelmemo.com/author/walter-schaerer", "url": "https://travelmemo.com/author/walter-schaerer", "sameAs": [ "https://www.google.com/search?kgmid=/g/11vyy41ctv", "https://github.com/webmemo-code", "https://www.facebook.com/walter.schaerer", "https://x.com/walterschaerer", "https://www.linkedin.com/in/walterschaerer/", "https://reisememo.ch/reiseblogger/walter-schaerer", "https://webmemo.ch/author/walter-schaerer", "https://medium.com/@WalterSchaerer", "https://youtube.com/channel/UCfzTIuCp9FsfG-pb47gYdhg", "https://www.xing.com/profile/Walter_Schaerer", "https://search.ch/tel/zuerich/trottenstrasse-3/walter-schaerer", "https://www.flickr.com/photos/schaerer/", "https://www.moneyhouse.ch/de/person/schaerer-walter-andres-121995368901", "https://ch.pinterest.com/reisememo/", "https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/109085359766489191785/", "https://www.local.ch/de/d/zuerich/8037/schaerer-walter-hLD7T9-dHVA0oaxqe4XyIQ", "https://www.swisstravelcommunicators.ch/mitglieder/walter-schaerer/", "https://about.me/schaerer", "https://www.reddit.com/user/Chemical_Pin_6793/" ], "gender": "Male", "birthDate": "1966-02-24", "worksFor": [ {"@id": "https://webmemo.ch/#consulting"}, {"@id": "https://kpmg.com/ch/#corporation"} ] }, "publisher": { "@type": "Organization", "name": "travelmemo.com", "url": "https://travelmemo.com", "@id": "https://travelmemo.com" } } Prices Per person menu prices start at CHF 200.- for a 3-course meal; the 6-course menu goes for CHF 261.- Room prices start at CHF 370.- on weekdays and CHF 390.- on weekends for a room for one night , the suites are available starting, respectively, at CHF 580.-, or CHF 600.- . The airy Tower Suite costs respectively CHF 660.- and 680.-, and an additional Tower Room — probably shared with Pantaléon — another CHF 180.- Breakfast the next morning costs CHF 42.- per person Opening hours Days: Thursday through Sunday, starting at 12 noon Nights: Wednesday through Sunday, starting at 19:00 hours Make sure to be there at the hour sharp. You’re in Switzerland after all ;-) ## Franz Josef Glacier and the beautiful Maori legend Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/franz-josef-glacier-maori-legend Justine Tyerman learns about Franz Josef Glacier and the beautiful Maori legend of Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere: The Tears of the Ice Maiden. Franz Josef Glacier is stunning at any time of the year but a crystal clear winter’s day with fresh snow on the Southern Alps is the primo time to visit. The mist cleared to a perfect sunny day We took a thrilling helicopter ride from Franz Josef village to a landing site at the “Pinnacles” where the ice fractures and tumbles in massive chunks over the edge of steep terrain. The panorama was literally breath-taking. After a thorough safety check to make sure we had our crampons fitted correctly and knew how to use our poles and the fixed lines, we followed our guide Tim Bluett along deep crevasses the colour of blue-white marble, between sharp peaks like stiffly-whipped egg white and up steep staircases chipped into the ice. Along the way, Tim shared his vast knowledge of the glacier with our international group of eight. Guide Tim shows us how the crampons fit onto the boots Guide Tim doing track maintainance Justine following guide Tim up a steep set of steps Our team heading up the glacier on the Ice Explorer expedition Inside a narrow crevasse on Franz Josef Glacier The Franz Josef Glacier lies in Westland Tai Poutini National Park on the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The area is part of a Unesco World Heritage site, Te Wahipounamu – the Greenstone Waters. The glacier is an 11-kilometre river of ice which descends from 3000-metres high in the Southern Alps, to 350m in lush rain forest. Moving at a rate of 1 to 2 metres a day in the winter and 3 to 4 metres a day in the summer, the Franz Josef is the world’s steepest and fastest-flowing commercially-guided glacier. New Zealand’s fourth largest glacier, it’s also one of the most accessible on the planet, terminating just 18km from the sea. The glacier is only five kilometres from the township of Franz Josef so you can hike/bike there or take a guided walk to a look-out where you can safely view the terminal face. The chopper ride took us up the glacier to the “Pinnacles” Despite advances in 1983 and 1999, overall, the Franz Josef has retreated about three kilometres since the late 1880s. Since 2008, the glacier has been in major retreat mode, losing 800 metres in length. In 2012, a dramatic change occurred. A hole in the ice resulted in the loss of over 250m from the terminal face in just over 12 months leaving it unstable and unsafe for hiking. Helicopters are now the safest way to explore this awe-inspiring natural phenomenon with its maze of crevasses, caves, peaks and curious ice formations. Sharp pinnacles on the glacier Maori name of Franz Josef Glacier At the highest point gazing down the valley with the Southern Alps towering above us, Tim also told us the legend behind the Maori name for the glacier – Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere: The Tears of the Ice Maiden – a beautiful love story handed down to him by Ngai Tahu, the kaitiaki or guardians of the land. Long before the Europeans came to Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the days when magic ruled, there was a young woman named Hine Hukatere who loved to climb mountains. One day, when she was climbing a steep slope in the Southern Alps (Ka Tiritiri o te Moana) using magical ice tools carved from pounamu (greenstone), she struck a rock and her ice axe shattered into pieces. Hine climbed down from the mountains and walked along the valley to the seashore hoping to find pounamu that she could craft into a new axe. A stone-carver named Wawe was walking along the beach and stopped to introduce himself. He offered to help Hine find some pounamu and make a new axe for her. They spent many weeks together and fell in love. Although Hine was happy with Wawe, she longed for the fresh, crisp air of the mountains and the cry of the kea (mountain parrot) so asked him to go to the alps with her. Wawe agreed to go with Hine but there was doubt in his mind as the terrain above the snowline is tapu (sacred) to Maori… however his love for Hine was stronger than his fears. Hine was so happy to be climbing in the mountains again, she was overcome with “summit fever” and left Wawe far behind. He became afraid of what might happen because of breaking a tapu from his ancestors, and in a panic, he slipped and fell. The angry weather god Tawhirimatea seized the opportunity and used one of his strong winds to push him off the rock he was clinging to. Hine heard Wawe’s screams as he tumbled down the rock face landing with a fatal bone-crushing crash on the valley floor. Hine was so distraught, the valley where Wawe’s body lay was filled with her tears. The gods took pity on Hine in her distress and froze her tears into an ice coffin to protect Wawe for eternity. This is why Franz Josef Glacier is called Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere – The Tears of the Ice Maiden. The helicopter returned just as the sun began to slip behind the mountains. As we flew back down the glacier, I thought of Wawe buried deep beneath the ice and Hine Hukatere still grieving for her lost lover. The helicopter arrives to take us back to Glacier Base Back at NZ Glacier Guides’ Base in Franz Josef, a delightful treat awaited at the spa and beauty centre. Masseuse Nikcola administered a sublimely relaxing massage after which my husband Chris and I spent a dreamy hour soaking in a private pool at Glacier Hot Pools. According to Maori, the waters revive your tinana (body), hinengaro (mind) and wairua (spirit)… a blissful way to end a perfect day. The hot pools at Glacier Base in Franz Josef township Glacier Hot Pools at Glacier Guides base in Franz Josef A relaxing massage after a day on the glacier was bliss Tips: Franz Josef Glacier Guides run the four-hour Ice Explorer; three-hour Heli-Hike; five-hour Heli-Ice Climb and three-hour Glacier Valley Walk year round except for Christmas Day (depending on the weather). Admission to the Glacier Hot Pools at Glacier Base in Franz Josef township is free with the Ice Explorer and Heli-Hike experience. Glacier Guides provide jackets, over-pants, woollen hats, mittens, socks, boots, crampons and a carry-bag. Justine Tyerman did the four-hour Franz Josef Glacier Explorer heli-hike expedition and visited Glacier Hot Pools and Spa courtesy of Ngai Tahu Tourism who own Franz Josef Glacier Guides NZ. JUCY Rentals provided land transport. Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Queenstown. ## E-biking the Clutha River, Wanaka, Otago Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/ebiking-clutha-river-wanaka Justine Tyerman discovers e-biking, and her husband performs a heroic deed… Whizzing up a steep hill on my e-bike, passing my super-fit husband, is an experience I will always treasure. I stopped at the top with a look of triumph on my face and cheered Chris on as he heroically pedalled his way up to meet me, sweat pouring from his brow. It was the end of our first ever e-bike expedition and I had unwisely squandered my battery during our 50km ride while my chivalrous husband had conserved his, suspecting I would need it to get back to home base. As anticipated, my battery conked out at the foot of the last hill so we swapped bikes and I coasted home with the aid of the turbo boost while Chris got a week’s exercise in one hit. Justine on the cycle track from Wanaka to Luggate Pedalling an ordinary bike uphill is tough enough but an unpowered electric bike is a different story altogether. They are heavier than their traditional cousins, thanks to the grunty battery pack attached to the frame. We hired SmartMotion e-bikes from Solar Cycles, a small rental business in Wanaka which was far preferable to driving an hour to Queenstown and renting bikes at more than twice the price. Designed by a clever Kiwi called Anthony Clyde, SmartMotion e-bikes are simple to operate and incredibly zippy. They are New Zealand’s top-selling brand and are exported all round the world. We spent the day cycling along the banks of the mighty Clutha River on a gloriously clear winter day with a fresh dusting of snow on the mountains. The loop track took us along the edge of Lake Wanaka to the outlet where the aqua-turquoise Clutha, one of the swiftest rivers in the world, begins it 338km journey to the sea. The river near the outlet from Lake Wanaka The mighty Clutha River near the Wanaka outlet We followed a narrow, rocky, uppy-downy path right on the water’s edge for about 25km, crossing a bridge just before the small township of Luggate. The return trip on the other side of the river was on a broad, straight, relatively-smooth track high above the river with magnificent views of the ancient glacial terraces enclosed within a necklace of mountains. En route, we stopped beside the river in the warm sunshine for a picnic lunch. The Clutha River outlet with Lake Wanaka in the background The cycle track to Luggate alongside the Clutha River viewed from the opposite side of the river on the way back to Wanaka Chris taking a break on the way back to Wanaka Justine high above the Clutha River on the track from Wanaka to Luggate. The return track can be seen on the other side of the river. The ride was quite an adventure. The terrain was probably too technical for me as a novice rider but the experience was hugely exhilarating. The exercise factor was as strenuous as I wanted it to be and when I was tired, I relied on the battery to assist my pedalling and just cruised for a while. I obviously cruised a little too much… but Chris saved the day. A former flat-terrain-only cyclist, the e-bike concept has opened up a vast world of possibilities to me. It’s levelled the pedalling field for Chris and me and means we can enjoy cycling together… up and down. We’ve joined the e-bike revolution and we’re even planning to go e-biking in the Swiss Alps later in the year! Justine gives her SmartMotion e-bike the thumbs-up Factbox Justine travelled to Wanaka with JUCY. For more information about SmartMotion e-bikes. ## Cervo Sunday Brunch – the Mountain Boutique Resort way! Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/cervo-zermatt-sunday-brunch My preferred way of launching into Sundays is with a long, leisurely brunch. To heighten the “brunch” experience even more for us, Zermatt Tourism came up with an interesting experiment: the night before they packed us into a real igloo at minus 20 degrees! We make it to brunch the next morning anyway! I can’t imagine why, but everyone seems to know by now that I’m a pushover for a good Sunday brunch. I love getting a start on the day comfortably and in a relaxed manner, surrounded by tasty deli fare, fresh jus, and coffee galore, And in good company, of course. The igloo experiment It seems, however, that Corinne Ulrich of Zermatt Tourism took this as a challenge: She didn’t just invite us to the standard brunch review, but instead proposes to let us “prep” the night before in an igloo! Make that “shiver,” of course, because at 20 below zero even we are no longer just cool… However, we can never resist a dare either, so we took her up on this challenge — and survived it. With flying colors! Dawn over Zermatt Igloo Village So, the next morning, freshly thawed out, we make our way from our igloo to the Gornergrat railway, which we take down to Zermatt where we plan to stop in at Cervo Boutique Hotel for its much-praised Sunday brunch. With towering expectations! There is also the Cervo’s legendary reputation: while it may not have invented the “Alpine chic” concept, it did much to help shape it. We are excited like newborns — or Arctic explorers! Cervo Mountain Boutique Resort When the e-taxi deposits us in front of the Cervo, it quickly becomes clear where the good rep comes from: Nestled against a slope in Zermatt at the edge of the forest in sight of the Matterhorn are eight elegant stone, wood, and glass chalets, each bearing a discreet stag emblem, the “cervo,” which means “stag” in Italian. Or possibly even alpha stag, as we shall see? The Cervo Mountain Boutique Resort chalets Entry staircase to the Cervo Mountain Boutique Resort Painting of a stag in the Cervo Resort The first impression is of a modest space. You enter the main chalet not through a big driveway and revolving door, but up a set of small stairs to then stand in front of a rather plain little reception desk. Another narrow wooden stair then leads up one floor into the Puro Gourmet Restaurant decorated with 14 Gault Millau points. With its low wooden ceiling, it too feels rather small and easily taken in with one glance, although we are told later that it seats 70. But, we have barely been seated when a pleasant feeling like being at home settles over us. Not that we live in a chalet or hunting cabin, but this is what it might feel like if we did. The cheerful and attentive staff does its part to make us feel welcome and wastes no time making our table practically disappear. Under all the delicacies that grow up here. À la carte Sunday brunch We feast on Bircher müesli, croissants, and cheese and more brunch fare before we move on to our tried and proven “Eggs Benedict test.” How high will their version of the famous dish be stacked, what garnishes will they serve with it? Does it come with a side of avocado? Possibly also with some ham and its chives? Berkel meat slicer Brunch table at the Cervo Cheese, Bircher müesli and more good stuff Still more cheese, coffee and sundry temptations Eggs Royale with salmon Eggs Benedict The Eggs Benedict tastes outstanding. No contest. Optically and as regards garnishes, however, it is not quite ready to top our Eggs Benedict rankings ;-) No matter, the overall experience is tops! Along with ample views of the Matterhorn, we “digest” the adventurous night we just passed and now this fine à la carte brunch. Well played! Getting that Cervo feeling… The brunch price of CHF 49.- per person is a fair price given the whole experience, in my opinion. The brunch, incidentally, is open to all, not just hotel guests. So, if you book one of the many Zermatt designer chalets, you can still get a good taste of Cervo. To put it another way: The Sunday brunch is the budget-conscious traveler’s way to the Cervo feeling, given that the rooms rent in the upper price range. View of the Matterhorn Signpost to the Cervo Chalets Room with a view Spa area Terrace with view Hotelier Daniel F. Lauber Watching benignly to make sure that all is done just right is Cervo’s senior partner Daniel Lauber. Engineer, member of the Council of States, and longtime mayor of Zermatt, he sees to it that his son and young hotelier Daniel F. Lauber stays solidly grounded despite all the successes that Cervo can regularly proclaim. Grand seigneur Daniel Lauber in Cervo’s “Puro” Restaurant When the hotel opened in December 2009, the scion had not yet turned 30 and his — at the time daring — “Alpine Chic” hotel concept on the outskirts of Zermatt at the forest’s edge was given little chance of succeeding. Today, the then-newcomer and hotel designer is after all one of Switzerland’s most successful hoteliers… Ah! And, by the way: if you think you’ve consumed the last crumb of your brunch, that’s when things really get started! Now, the kitchen goes freestyle and serves up magnificently spiced beef cubes. Followed by desserts that seem to never end… Beef cube in spicy stock Dessert variations Enjoy! The indulgent reader at this point may object: isn’t that bit too much food on the table for just two? Correct! At table were eight people, because we turned up with other travel bloggers and Instagrammers. The hilarious photos of bloggers eating will follow later in a “making of” account of this blogger trek… Many thanks to Zermatt Tourism and the Cervo team for the generous invitation and the outstanding hospitality! Address: CERVO Mountain Boutique Resort Riedweg 156 Postfach 388 CH-3920 Zermatt Phone: +41 27 968 12 12 To Cervo’s Website { "@context": "http://schema.org/", "@type": "Review", "itemReviewed": { "@type": "Restaurant", "address": { "@type": "PostalAddress", "addressLocality": "Zermatt", "addressRegion": "VS", "postalCode": "3920", "streetAddress": "Riedweg 156" }, "name": "CERVO Mountain Boutique Resort", "priceRange": "$$", "servesCuisine": [ "Brunch" ], "email": "mailto:info@cervo.ch", "image": "https://reisememo.ch/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Cervo-Mountain-Boutique-Resort-Logo.jpg", "telephone": "+41 27 968 12 12", "url": "http://www.cervo.ch" }, "author": { "@type": "Person", "@id":"https://travelmemo.com/#person", "name": "Walter Schärer", "url": "https://travelmemo.com/author/walter-schaerer", "sameAs": [ "https://www.google.com/search?kgmid=/g/11vyy41ctv", "https://github.com/webmemo-code", "https://www.facebook.com/walter.schaerer", "https://x.com/walterschaerer", "https://www.linkedin.com/in/walterschaerer/", "https://reisememo.ch/reiseblogger/walter-schaerer", "https://webmemo.ch/author/walter-schaerer", "https://medium.com/@WalterSchaerer", "https://youtube.com/channel/UCfzTIuCp9FsfG-pb47gYdhg", "https://www.xing.com/profile/Walter_Schaerer", "https://search.ch/tel/zuerich/trottenstrasse-3/walter-schaerer", "https://www.flickr.com/photos/schaerer/", "https://www.moneyhouse.ch/de/person/schaerer-walter-andres-121995368901", "https://ch.pinterest.com/reisememo/", "https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/109085359766489191785/", "https://www.local.ch/de/d/zuerich/8037/schaerer-walter-hLD7T9-dHVA0oaxqe4XyIQ", "https://www.swisstravelcommunicators.ch/mitglieder/walter-schaerer/", "https://about.me/schaerer", "https://www.reddit.com/user/Chemical_Pin_6793/" ], "gender": "Male", "birthDate": "1966-02-24", "worksFor": [ {"@id": "https://webmemo.ch/#consulting"}, {"@id": "https://kpmg.com/ch/#corporation"} ] } }, "reviewRating": { "@type": "Rating", "ratingValue": "5", "bestRating": "5" }, "review": [ { "@type": "Review", "author": "Walter Schaerer", "datePublished": "2017-02-14", "description": "Stellar sunday brunch in friendly alpin chic environment. Very commendable!", "name": "Alpin chic Sunday brunch in Cervo Zermatt Resort" } ], "publisher": { "@type": "Organization", "name": "travelmemo.com", "@id": "travelmemo.com" } } ## Findeln chalet village near Zermatt and a mountain gourmet trifecta Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/zermatt-gourmet-findeln-chalet-village Zermatt is known far and wide as a gourmet destination. Visitors really face the agony of choice with over 100 restaurants and counting. Should you go for something “simple and down to earth”? Or make it something on the refined haute cuisine side? In our case, we tasted our way through a total of 41 Gault Millau points in the chalet village of Findeln… This review first appeared in German on reisememo.ch Findeln Chalet Hamlet Findeln perches at an altitude of 2,020 meters above sea level. This petite hamlet above Zermatt is not only known for its picturesque little chalets and the most perfect perspective on the Matterhorn but also for top flight gastronomy! It is a comfortable walk to Findeln, with the Matterhorn always in sight On the invitation by Zermatt Tourism, we follow the “Gourmet Round” through the following three restaurants. The plan: have the first course in the “Paradise” restaurant, feast on the main dish at “Chez Vrony”, and delight in the dessert in the “Findlerhof”. Pointing the way to restaurant “paradise” ;-) Paradies Restaurant, 13 Gault Millau points Native Gaston Zeiter, our host in Paradies Restaurant, is ready for us with the appetizer. As is often the case with star chefs, Gaston, too, comes across as a bit reticent and shy. But, when he dishes up the starter (together with plenty Heida wine) and sees how beside ourselves with enthusiasm we react, his face beams. The ice is quickly broken between him and the bloggers and Instagrammers oohing and aahing over the dish and taking pictures of it from every angle! Our host Gaston Zeiter He proudly presents the first course he created especially for us — or so he pretends — , a barley soup with chives, a raclette with Heida cheese and a boiled beef salad. What a special combination! Gaston also lets us in on a secret: for him, butter is the be-all and end-all and so it often plays a supporting but important role in his menus. When it finally quiets down around the table after the initial excitement, we settle down to enjoying the first course, reduced to nodding appreciatively to each other now. Just sporadically picking up the camera and shooting… The table is set. Let it begin! Boiled beef salad, raclette and barley soup first course Address: Restaurant Paradies Findeln CH-3920 Zermatt Phone +41 27 967 3451 Paradies Website Chez Vrony, 14 Gault Millau points The moveable feast moves on to Vrony, known everywhere around here. Her husband Max is our man this time, and he is already waiting for us, beaming at us as if we travel bloggers were emirs from Qatar. Things are moving a bit faster at Vrony than earlier in the day at Paradies. Here, the terrace is already very well occupied. No wonder — with this view! Having briefly perused the menu, the consensus at the table is clear: the Original Vrony Burger times seven if you please! The Original Vrony Burger in the Ladies’ Cut version Burger with a view. Like a postcard… While the women can’t get enough of looking at the Matterhorn and taking pictures of the majestic mountain as if there were no tomorrow, Walter is stalking the inside of the building, camera at the ready. After all, there are beautiful subjects to be photographed here, too, starting with the design luminaires and furniture by famous designer Heinz Julen – Vrony’s brother. As a side note, Vrony took over the restaurant in 1995 from her father and since then has been the hostess with the mostest, in body and soul! Evidently so! Chalet Chez Vrony The spectacular Matterhorn Hosts Max and Vrony Address: Chez Vrony Restaurant Findeln CH-3920 Zermatt Phone +41 27 967 25 52 Website Chez Vrony The Findlerhof, 14 Gault Millau points At long last, dessert awaits us at the Findlerhof. Heidi serves us a warm chocolate cake with fruit. With it comes an “evil coffee,” it goes without saying. The cake’s inside is still slightly viscous and simply melts on the tongue… what a crowning finale to this gourmet trifecta in Findeln! Entrance to the Findlerhof Restaurant Hospitality with heart in the Findlerhof Zermatt Sweet seduction at the Findlerhof Zermatt Address: Findlerhof Restaurant Findeln CH-3920 Zermatt Phone +41 27 967 25 88 Findlerhof Website Our thanks go to… … the three hosts that made this Gourmet Round possible! Many thanks also to Corinne of Zermatt Tourism for seeing to it that we showed up at the right time in the right place every time so that nothing was burned on the stove or got cold ;-) ## Miss Zermatt has a black nose — at Tradition Julen Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/zermatt-blacknose-sheep-tradition-julen Zermatt even has its own beauty contest! Mind you, here the contestants tend not to be tall and lissome, but short and rather plump. But, for this contest, too, they need flawless legs — complete with blotches! As we walk into the spacious pen where the Julen family keeps its Valais blacknose sheep, we are greeted by the sound of loud “Määähs” and the clomping around of the droll sheep. With their black noses and vaguely Rastafarian locks, the one word that comes to mind is: cute. Not by chance is Zermatt’s mascot a little blacknose sheep named Wolli (almost sounds like “Woolly”). Paul-Marc Julen with a 2-month old blacknose lamb The sheep peek at us curiously from under their curls and even come up to the fence to greet us. That’s how trusting they are. Visibly proud of the his blacknose sheep raising operation, the world’s biggest, Paul-Marc Julen shares several facts about his animals with us. So, we learn among other things that during the summer they are allowed to roam completely free on their unfenced alp above 2,400 meters altitude. This is because the blacknose sheep have a very good sense of place. They can be relied on to always hang around where they were fed the last time with their favorite “Gläck” — a mixture of salt and hard bread. A trusting blacknose ram Show those legs, Wolli! In blacknose sheep husbandry, very precise criteria must be fulfilled. So, in addition to a black nose – naturally – they also need to have regular markings on their legs below the knees down to their fetlocks. And the females must have a black marking on the tail. And, it goes without saying, candidates vying to become “Miss Zermatt” in the beauty contest held annually the second weekend in September have to meet these requirements when they line up for the judges to choose the fairest of them all… The current year’s Miss Zermatt reigns among the Julen’s flock of sheep. Goes without saying! Blacknose sheep with characteristic hind leg markings The herd’s proverbial black sheep hold the key to genetic diversity in the flock. Without such outliers, the breed would degenerate over the generations. Julen accordingly keeps a close eye on the libidinous “doings” of his rams. For that reason, the rams don’t get to frolic on the alp in the summer. Otherwise, birth control and hence successful breeding would be impossible. Incidentally, in one season, a blacknose ram can tup as many as 35 ewes! Mamma mia — almost like rabbits! Just in sheep’s clothing… Hiking to where the blacknose sheep graze Every year, father Paul and son Paul-Marc invite their guests to hike with them up to the alp where the blacknose sheep spend the summer grazing. That always makes for a special experience — as this photo of the sheep on grazing below the imposing Matterhorn north face proves. Blacknose sheep on their pasture below the Matterhorn© Paul Julen Later during our visit, in his cozy Schäferstübli Restaurant Paul Jules show us a photo of his flock of sheep, his eyes shining. Gradually it sinks in how he and his family feel about these animals. Instagrammer Rayana Gasparotto finds the sheep nearly irresistible ;-) Instagrammer Rayana Gasparotto with blacknose sheep Blacknose sheep and Tradition Julen Besides the 300 blacknose sheep, Tradition Julen comprises 3 hotels and 6 eateries. Paul and Paul-Marc seek to combine tourism and husbandry. So, for example, everything they produce on their farm gets used in their nine family-owned hospitality operations. The meat they serve up in the restaurants, the sheep’s wool is turned into blankets, duvets, and pillows for the hotels and the horns and hides are repurposed as decorations. Tradition Julen’s blacknosed electromobile The Schäferstube Grill serves blacknose mutton specialties And even that is not enough: in its biogas facility, the tradition-rich family enterprise since 2015 has been producing energy from Zermatt’s trash. But thereby hangs another tale… Warm thanks to… … Paul-Marc and Paul Julen for the interesting information on raising blacknoses and the hospitality you showed us in Restaurant Schäferstübli! Many thanks, too, go to Corinne Ulrich of Zermatt Tourism for organizing everything and the invitation. ## A winter hike to Fluhalp — Matterhorn (almost) always in view Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/winter-hike-fluhalp-matterhorn The hike from the stylish Blue Lounge to the Fluhalp is easy peasy. It takes you along a glacial moraine high above Zermatt on an ever so slight gradient through the alpine mountain landscape. But even those scant few meters of altitude differential pay off, because the view… Yes, it simply is magic — both there and back again. Reading time: 00:03:29 Starting point Blue Lounge You can reach the Blue Lounge from different points of the compass by taking the Sunnegga-, Gant-, Patrullarve- or Blauherd-Rothorn Paradise railways. The Blue Lounge is distinguished not only by its elegant interior but also, as is true of so much in Zermatt, by its spectacular views of the Matterhorn. View of the Matterhorn from the Blue Lounge terrace Skiers before a Matterhorn panorama Depending on how you choose to make your way up to the Lounge — on foot via Findeln and Paradise or Tuftern, or by railway — you either fortify yourself on the terrace or gorge on Matterhorn views. No, of course, that won’t do; in any event, sooner or later everyone has to continue on and leave this powerful place behind. Fluhalp mountain restaurant — and hotel It so happens that very soon after setting out from the Blue Lounge toward Fluhalp you glimpse a new optical destination: in the distance below the boldly chiseled Adlerhorn peak you can already see the bright red window shutters of the Fluhalp Hotel and Restaurant shining in the sunlight. You skirt the famous Stellisee lake (this is the photo opp where all those spectacular pictures of the Matterhorn reflected in the lake at sunrise originate) and then gently walk the curving path uphill, getting closer to your day destination with every step. At least in our case. The picturesque view here is like it is at the Matterhorn: you simply never tire of looking at the scenery and just can’t stop snapping pictures. As far as I’m concerned. And woe unto anyone that turns for a look back! Not that you will turn into a pillar of salt, à la Sodom & Gomorrah, but you will turn into a photographer’s bipod, because you simply won’t be able to stop shooting the Matterhorn… Groomed winter hiking trail Exposed location in front of the Adlerhorn The Fluhalp fronting the Adlerhorn Fluhalp Hotel in front of the Strahlhorn and Adlerhorn peaks (Really) red shutters on the Fluhalp Hotel and Restaurant with Adlerhorn at right Continue contentedly on to the Fluhalp and you will be rewarded with a sun terrace and a novel perspective of the Matterhorn. As if there weren’t enough of those already. Along with it, you can have sliced fried potatoes with bratwurst or a fondue. Swiss style. Or you may order something else from the menu, that’s totally fine, too. At most, it won’t be quite Swiss style any more. To each his own. But be sure to finish up with an “evil coffee.” A shot of digestive of plum or apricot brandy never hurts. And the cream to go with it, naturally… Be that as it may, you can easily compensate for alcohol or calorie excesses, if any, on the hike back. Especially since the Matterhorn remains to be photographed a few more times. The Fluhalp view terrace Balconies on the Hotel Fluhalp The sun setting behind the Fluhalp Walter studying the menu with a view Walter with his apricot “evil coffee” Fluhalp @ 2,620 MASL Guest-ready cutlery on the Fluhalp terrace A bit more Matterhorn on the way back… Better take an extra-long roll of film with you on this hike, because there is plenty to capture on it. And then it could happen unexpectedly anytime that an Air Zermatt helicopter makes a stopover in your shot… And if the hungries should hit unexpectedly on the way back, do yourself a favor and detour around the Blue Lounge, take the Sunnegga gondola and then wander in the direction of Weiler Findeln. Here you’ll have the agony of choice, not just of beautiful Matterhorn photo subjects with cute wooden chalets, but no less than three exceptional restaurants. How what pleases the palate where there, Katja will dish on soon in a special restaurant reportage. One thing you can be sure of already: here, too, they serve that evil coffee and desserts! And, so you can once more walk off the buzz and the calories, you are offered the hike along the Findelnbach creek all the way down into Zermatt. By the time you get there, everything should be back in balance… Walter taking his wicked DJI Mavic Pro Drone for a spin Paraglider over Dent Blanche and Ober Gabelhorn peaks This way to the Matterhorn… Matterhorn and hiking trail with Air Zermatt helicopter Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Ober Gabelhorn and Wellenkuppe Chairlift on the way back Matterhorn majesty! Thank you for the tour, Nicole! Zermatt Tourism delivered us confidently into the hands of Instagrammer Nicole Hunziker for this tour, because of how well she knows her away around the neighborhood. Indeed, she expertly led us on the wide, groomed way and also found the table reserved for our lunch right off the bat ;-) ## For Events: Get stoked at Turbina Zermatt! Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/turbina-zermatt-stoked-experience What do you do when you want to buy a chalet in Zermatt and along with it you are offered a mothballed hydroelectric plant? Simple – you restore the turbine building as the “Turbina Zermatt” event location! Swiss Aargau native Christian Meier in 1994 started the Stoked Snowboard School in Zermatt. As it grew and grew, he needed a place where he could house his many snowboarding instructors. A vacant chalet in Zermatt’s Winkelmatten neighborhood close by the Matterhorn struck him as just the thing for his young troops. But, of course, it didn’t quite turn out as expected… The Matterhorn viewed from Turbina Zermatt What Meier had not counted on: The owner did not just want to dispose of the chalet, but also get the Gornergrat railway’s turbine building next door off his hands in the bargain. Good gracious — a turbine building for what?! Turbina Zermatt Event Location Here’s what for: the hydro station was built in 1898 to power the Gornergrat electric railway. In those days, it would have been more expensive to build but cheaper to operate than a steam-powered train. The 750 horsepower turbine was retired in 1947; meanwhile, the building had become seriously dilapidated. It is now 2014, and Christian Meier with his brothers Jürg and Michael get to work restoring the building themselves to repurpose it as an event location. They retain many of the original distinctive features, and, naturally, those turbines. Even the machine noise and the steam from the turbines are still going full blast ;-) That’s DJ Electric Steve high up in the turbine hall A generator in the turbine hall The founder: Christian Meier tells the Turbina story Hydroelectric turbine by Brown Boveri Candles on wood blocks help create mood Besides the ski and snowboard school, the bustling (“stoked”?) Meier brothers today also operate Boot Fitting & Biomechanics, the event planning agency Stoked Experience, Stoked Real Estate and the Sports Shop & Rental at Bahnhofstrasse 72 in Zermatt. And hey, who can claim to have bought a turbine building to go with his chalet? Address: Turbina Zermatt Turbinaweg 1 3920 Zermatt Schweiz +41 27 967 70 30 info@turbina.ch turbina.ch Another view of the Matterhorn from the Turbina Our thanks go to… …Corinne Ulrich of Zermatt Tourism for organizing the visit! Warm thanks also to Christian Meier and his team for the adventuresome explanations. We wish you continued success with your numerous enterprises! Und also a big thank you to DJ Electric Steve! He looks after laying down the sound rug from the DJ cockpit ;-) ## Gone with the wind — thanks, Air Zermatt! Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/heli-skiing-air-zermatt-helicopter Travel blogging is hard work. This is common knowledge. And sometimes it’s even enough to make you “go ballistic.” Like when Switzerland’s Zermatt Tourism wants us to try heli skiing… Do not envy us travel bloggers – please. Blogging takes all kinds of effort. Honestly, it is no fun! Really. Complete disaster, it’s true! That no one believes us is the fault, among others, of committed tourism experts like Corinne Ulrich at Zermatt Tourism. And the weather gods. Taking advantage of a get-together of travel bloggers and Instagrammers, Corinne seizes the chance to put the excellent weather and the destination entrusted to her in the best possible light. Normally she would commandeer two gondolas or two electromobiles to transport a group like ours, but because she wants us to experience heli skiing on the Rothorn, without further ado, she orders two Air Zermatt helicopters! Wow! Every so often even we travel bloggers get a break ;-) Air Zermatt heliport Hitching a ride on village public transportation, we adventure seekers take the bus a couple of stations down valley to a nondescript blue Air Zermatt cargo elevator. We take it up to the Air Zermatt heliport. It is early morning and all is quiet and empty on it except for a single helicopter squatting off to one side, but looking anything but ready to transport anyone anywhere any time soon. We act like we do this every day and just stand there with our cameras looking professional. And since there is a bright, thick red line painted on the helipad’s surface, we make sure to plant ourselves well behind it. Can’t do any harm. The quiet before the storm Next thing we know, a cool type dressed as if ready for duty on an aircraft carrier deck shows up. And then another one. And another. All three have on identical red down jackets and white helmets. Other than this opening act, it is still nice and quiet here – and mostly empty. The crew stand there in a circle, casually chatting. Lookin’ good, gentlemen. We professionals look at each other, not quite sure of what is happening, and take a few snapshots. After all, there is the Matterhorn emerging behind the heliport as the day brightens. Cargo elevator for equipment and people “Deserted” heliport with Matterhorn in the distance Oliver Fuchs with Air Zermatt helicopter The crew Oliver Fuchs keeping an eye on the arriving Eurocopter But then! There’s no mistaking it! In the distance, we make out a low thudding noise. It grows louder and louder until two roaring, clattering helos approach and set their runners gently down on the heliport. Suddenly, all hell breaks loose with a flurry of activity: Unload guests and baggage; load up travel bloggers and cameras; put on the seat harness and pull it snug; put on headphone, adjust mike. Before you know it, we take off and rise into the Zermatt sky! Via Weisshorn and Matterhorn to Rothorn heli skiing Practically laying the choppers over on their sides in a rolling bank, the helicopters with their filming freight fly over the maintenance depot and chopper up to the spectacular Weisshorn with its Weisshorn lodge. In the next long right banking turn, the Matterhorn majestically heaves into view. Expertly done… And a few moment later, as the Rothorn comes into view through the chin bubble we get set to jump out. Well, ok, it was not that dramatic as it turned out, because the helos land soft as butter in the snow and we climb down quite normally, like we were getting out of the back seat of a limousine – only to be met by an icy nor’easter blowing over Rothorn’s peak while enduring the rotor’s ear-splitting racket and the snow that it whips into our eyes. Roughing it… Up here, too, the unloading and loading are done in a great hurry. My grey camera backpack describes a high arc through the air before landing roughly in the snow. That hour flight time in the helicopter won’t come all that cheap… And then we had best duck once again and cover our eyes and ears as best we can in our bulky gear while holding our breath: Scattering snow and making big noise, the fire-engine red Air Zermatt thunderbird HB-ZAZ lifts off and does an even more daring sideways rolling bank before heading down into the valley. All that remains is the howling wind and a passel of bewildered travel bloggers and Instagrammers. It actually takes us a few moments to pull ourselves together and get our cameras to focus. Now that was some action! For a better video flight: Bump up the volume! Instagrammer Nicole Hunziker on a joy ride Travel blogger Walter hard at “work” Walter in the co-pilot’s seat checking on Katja The Matterhorn seen from the helicopter A brace of Air Zermatt choppers on Rothorn Helicopter parked on Rothorn Air Zermatt takes off from Rothorn Katja and Nicole hunker down as the helo takes off Rothorn peak with Matterhorn in the distance And because we came to really test EVERYTHING up here, travel blogger Sonja Hüsler with Instagrammers Rayana Gasparotto and Fabio Zingg join up with Nadine Rüdisühli and Corinne Ulrich, both of Zermatt Tourism, ready to take off downhill on skis, while travel bloggers Ellen Gromann and Katja with Instagrammer Nicole Hunziker and yours truly take the gondola back down into the valley to set out on foot on the winter hike to Fluhalp. Phuh, please note, the blogger’s simple life is not that simple…! And if anyone should accuse me of not even getting into the heli skiing, could it be you didn’t watch the video all the way to the end? Warm thanks… … to Corinne Ulrich and Zermatt Tourism for the invitation and organizing this extraordinary, unforgettable adventure trip! A big thank you also to the Air Zermatt crew! You made our day! And another thanks to our lively writer and photographer troop; it was fun being with you! ## An overnighter in Zermatt’s Igloo Village – at 20 below! Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/igloo-village-zermatt-overnight Having stayed in Sweden’s ice hotel, Walter is a clever rabbit when it comes to spending the night in ice. Also an Alpine hare, as it turns out. I, being Italian, like my ice in the form of gelato melting in the sun. Nevertheless, good sport that I also am, I let myself be inveigled to spend a night in Zermatt’s Igloo Village… Welcome to Zermatt Igloo Village! A beach chair crying out for an ocean I really have no cause to complain about bad weather: the view of cloudless Matterhorn is overwhelming! It’s just that, without any protective cloud cover, the temperature drops so abysmally that during our overnighter the mercury hovers around minus 20! Oh lord, how is this ever going to end well? Dressed in about five (!) layers of thermal undies, functional shirt, fleece pullover, down vest and ski jacket we tromp up to Igloo Village, located between Riffelberg and Gornergrat at 2,727 MASL. Oh, yes, I forgot to mention the wool cap, gloves, and two pair socks that I’m also wearing. Hey, it’s not like I jump for joy at ice and cold like a penguin…although dressed like this I could be mistaken for one. Or, at the outside, maybe even for the Michelin Man? Katja and Walter all layered up Well, be that as it may – the 360-degree panorama with Matterhorn and 28 more 4,000 meter peaks is still overwhelming. So much so, that I forget for a short while how cold it really is and am content to simply take in the stunning Alpine scenery around me. The Igloo Village at dusk The Romance Igloo Suite Aldo Balatti, the pleasant manager of Zermatt Igloo Village, brings me out of my reveries back into the cold present. He gives us a tour of Europe’s highest-altitude igloo village including a quick peek in the Romance Suite before the lovebirds who have booked if for the night arrive… I am pleasantly surprised by the impressive snow and ice artistry on display. I really had not imagined the cold stuff could be this stylish and romantic! The suite comes with its own whirlpool and a terrific full-frontal view of Horu, the name the natives give the Matterhorn. Fantastic! Sunlit Matterhorn viewed from the Romance Suite The Romance Suite bedroom After the mulled wine apéro and a tasty fondue, the Igloo team takes us on a short snowshoe hike into the frigid, starry night! But I’m slowly getting used to the cold and could swear I’m beginning to discover the Eskimo in me. Still and all, I just cannot warm up to the thought of hopping into the hot communal whirlpool before going to sleep. Although everyone talks a good game and they bravely put their names down on the sign-up list. Because not all 30 guests are going to fit into the whirlpool at the same time. Of course, Walter, acting cool as always, tells me: “Oh, c’mon, go for it!” …When hell freezes over! Instead, I take a cup of tea close by the fireplace in the adjoining Kota log house and let the blaze warm me, so that not only is my heart warmed but my whole body. (A small editorial note: “Cool Hand Walter” also passed on the whirlpool. He said he was doing it for me…). Finally comes the time to retire for the evening, in our case to a Romance Igloo Room. Clad in nothing more than thermal underwear (!!!) we crawl quickly into our double sleeping bag. The air is biting cold; I pull my cap down lower over my face and wrap a thick muffler around my neck. Sweet dreams… To my surprise, I don’t freeze once during the night and feel like I had a pretty good night’s sleep. The Romance Room A different Romance Room The morning after… The next morning, Aldo’s team wakes us with a cup of hot tea. I get dressed quickly, having had the foresight to take my clothes into the sleeping bag with me. Emerging from the igloo, we step into a fairy tale scenery: it is an overwhelming sensation… this quiet, the majestic Matterhorn at sunrise while all still slumbers in the Village. No doubt, I will remember this overnighter for a long time. An experience that you won’t mind turning into a penguin for! “Horu” at sunrise The quiet on the morning after An igloo world record The Igloo Village GmbH by now has seven locations: Davos-Klosters, Engelberg, Gstaad, Zermatt, Stockhorn in Switzerland and abroad there are Igloo Villages at the Zugspitze, Germany’s tallest mountain, and in tiny Andorra. The company celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2016. For the occasion, a 14-person team built the world’s biggest igloo! At nearly 10 meters high and 12.90-meter diameter, the snow and ice structure made it into the Guinness World Records Book. It took them 2,000 hours to finish the job. Wow! Icy congratulations! Many thanks… …to Corinne Ulrich of Zermatt Tourism for the invitation and Aldo Balatti and team for the explanations and the “village tour.” :-) Aldo Balatti, the manager of Zermatt Igloo Village More impressions of Zermatt Igloo Village: And here, Walter the photographer stages Instagram star Fabio Zingg. Or the Matterhorn (in the visor). Or himself. You can never be quite sure with him… Instagrammer Fabio Zingg in the Igloo Village ## Dining with the stars (or with the gods) on Gornergrat Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/zermatt-stargazing-dinner “Dining with the Stars” is one of the special experiences in Zermatt. But if at this point you imagine an exclusive dinner with celebs and starlets — sorry to disappoint, that’s not what this is about. But it is still divine… Dining with the stars on Gornergrat What this experience is about instead is astronomy and constellations! But first we need to take Europe’s second-highest mountain railway and clatter up to the top of Gornergrat. Incidentally, the Gornergratbahn railway since January 1, 2017 is controlled from a Siemens data center in Wallisellen! It means that the computer remotely sets the railway shunts and signals and does so even as the trains depart, arrive, stop or pass each other in Zurich. Crazy, huh? Gornergratbahn railway with Matterhorn in the background Gornergratbahn railway line Cogs in the Gornergratbahn railway track But let’s head back up the mountain… Greek mythology and the stars… Once you arrive on top at 3,100 meters, on a given Thursday from January and March, Zermatt’s Peter Salzmann will point out the signs of the zodiac for you. He also will show you how to use a celestial chart to orient yourself and navigate by. Just make sure to hold it the right way… Peter Salzmann explaining the zodiac signsWe’ll get to Callisto, Artemis and Zeus in just a bit While he instructs us, the Zermatt native star guide also regales us with legends from Greek mythology. It seems that the Greeks, still lacking TVs, spent a lot of time staring into the night sky. And over time — or thanks to the ouzo — they started to imagine seeing pictures in the heavens. So, for example, we learn that Zeus father of the gods, fell in love with Callisto, one of the nymphs of Artemis, goddess of the hunt and nature. Callisto found his divine charms irresistible and she broke her vow of chastity. Well, admittedly, Zeus pulled a trick by assuming the form of Artemis so that he could approach Callisto unrecognized. Sneaky… Callisto consequently got pregnant and gave birth to a son named Arkas. When Hera, the goddess wife of Zeus, found out about his affair, she was incensed. So much so, that as punishment she changed Callisto into a bear and set her in the heavens as a constellation. Callisto still shines today as the Greater Bear (the “Big Dipper” forms part of it). However, father Zeus did not want to leave his son Arkas on the planet. So, he turned him into Boötes (“Bearkeeper“) and hung him, too, up there in the heavens as a constellation, where ever since he has been watching over his mother. … or why we have a “Milky” Way Salzmann never tires of bringing up other hair-raising myths. Without getting into too much detail, I would just like to point out that the color of the Milky Way has something to do with Hera’s spilled mother’s milk. It was our randy Zeus once more who, by placing Hercules, one of his numerous earthly offspring (this time Zeus had fallen for beautiful Alcmene), on Hera’s breast wanted to give his son divine powers. I’m losing my thread here… To make a long story short, Hera awakens suddenly with a start and her mother’s milk is spilled all over the “Milky Way.” And so, this is how it got to be white… And if they haven’t passed away yet, all these characters continue to sparkle ever after in the present-day sky over Zermatt. Table setting with zodiac signs and Greek myths Between myths, we indulge ourselves to our heart’s content at the Fondue Chinoise buffet. But just as we’re ready for dessert, comes the call: outside, into the cold, to experience the unparalleled starry sky and the many constellations live! Walter’s photographs for once did not turn out very sharp (grumble, grumble). Not sure if the cause was the Siberian cold, a shaky tripod, or the alcohol… The Matterhorn seen from the Gornergrat – with a hefty shot of ouzo while focusing… With temperatures hovering around – 15 degrees centigrade, you hardly dare let an “aaah” or an “oooh” steam from your lips, what with the air at 3,100 meters being so thin to start with. But when it came to Orion, I could not contain myself. After all, legend once again has it, Zeus, Poseidon and Hermes the messenger of the gods line up to glitter so elegantly that to my eyes they form the most beautiful constellation! Orion in the starry skies above the chalet The Gornergrat observatory The finishing highlight to our visit was a tour of the domed observatory, which dates from the 1950s. One of the astronomers showed us the giant telescopes. By now the observatory is no longer used for scientific research. Instead, it opens its doors to school children, university students and others; the idea is to inspire in visitors an interest in scientific research by letting them observe the fascinating night skies. Here, too, modern technological progress has made inroads: now the observations can be controlled via the Internet! Steering the telescope Regardless of whether it’s an interest in Greek myths and their zodiac signs or the Fondue Chinoise that draws you up to the top of Gornergrat: it’s all worth it! The Thursday experience is available January to March and can be booked online here anytime. The cost is CHF 99.- per adult and youngsters aged 6-16 pay CHF 39.- Our thanks go to… Corinne Ulrich with Zermatt Tourism for inviting us on this adventure! Many thanks also to star guide Peter Salzmann for the entertaining star lore! ## The shave of my life — with corrugated metal yet… Source: https://travelmemo.com/india/wet-shave-in-rajasthan It may have just been in a corrugated sheet metal container somewhat off the beaten path in India, but the service was unbelievably good, with a haircut, head and neck massage thrown in, and a close-as-it-gets wet shave — with no razor burn! Never in my life had I experienced anything this good (but the opposite definitely…). On a three-week tour of India’s Rajasthan province, logic will have it that an occasional shave is called for. A smooth shave seemed even more de rigueur, considering that we lodged in some grand maharaja palaces. It was either shave or grow a full beard. But the latter would take more time than we disposed of, so a tidy wet shave was the default move. The coiffeur “salon” While we were stalking the tiger in the rough terrain of Sawai Madhopur in southeast Rajasthan, we would see hair styling salons set in small corrugated metal boxes on stilts lined up randomly, not along the high street, but perched along the roadsides. “Rough” terrain in Rajasthan Somnolent customer in coiffeur salon Corrugated metal container doing duty as coiffeur “salons” Hiking up my courage, I settle into the raised chair in the first box waiting for a customer, ready to let myself be cossetted. So I thought at any rate; as it turns out, my barber does not command the King’s English. But he has a buddy who does and has no other duties apparently; in any event, he doesn’t touch a hair on my head. Only later does it dawn on me why he so accommodatingly just sits there doing his interpreter thing… Be that as it may, I proceed to express with lots of gesticulating and in my broken Indian English that I would like my hair cut. And that a wet shave would also be cool. The interpreter catches my drift and lets the youthful barber in on what I’m after. Instantly he sets to work, snipping away at me in silent concentration. Soon half the village has converged on our container. I suppose they have never before seen a grey-haired white guy get his stubble cropped. Walter getting meticulously trimmed The interpreting comes from my right and in white. But was there really much to say? Not your ordinary wet shave And so, once my hair had been meticulously trimmed, I am lathered up. For quite a while. And one more time. And after a little bit of waving the razor in front of my nose, we get down to the nitty-gritty. To my surprise — not the least razor burn! Much different from what I had experienced with barbers at other times and in other places… Having come through it all without a scratch — another surprise — a head and neck massage is administered! The barber’s hands are everywhere, simultaneously it seems: he’s too fast even for the camera… Steady does it… Head and neck massage at light speed! The “price negotiation” Stepping down from my high seat, satisfied with the insanely luxurious treatment, I ask how much for the sartorial wonder. Suddenly, everyone seems super embarrassed and there is quite a bit of hemming and hawing. I don’t understand and, a bit nonplussed now, ask for the price again. Come on, there must be a charge for the service? The interpreter suddenly clams up and just smiles sheepishly. And Figaro himself doesn’t even seem to get it when I wave my bankroll at him. There simply is no getting a price out of them… Ok, so to put an end to it, I peel off about 2 dollars worth of the local currency and ask if that’s enough. I give the interpreter another two bits for his services. All heads now are nodding emphatically as the dough disappears instantly into their pockets. Since everybody seems to be happy, I saunter away satisfied, freshly shaved and with a new haircut. Just to clarify… Thinking about the scene later, it is still puzzling enough for me to ask our driver what’s the price of a haircut and shave hereabouts? He says, I would have to be prepared to pay around 20 cents or so for the works! AHA! The light goes on: I know now why all those people suddenly converged on our coiffeur box! That’s why the interpreter had so much time to spend! And that’s why, after the haircut and shave, a massage topped it off! And now I know why they don’t want to name a price: it would embarrass them to demand an outrageously high sum…but if a tourist volunteers it and is happy to hand it over, then of course they’ll take it ;-) As it turned out, that afternoon the box was shuttered. What with a week’s income already “in the till”?… For guys who happen to be in the neighborhood: “My” coiffeur salon is located on Ranthambore Road, Sawai Madhopur, Rajasthan, India. Highly recommended – unforgettable! ## Arabian Nights (complete with camels) – in Austria’s Bregenz Forest Source: https://travelmemo.com/austria/arabian-nights-experience-bregenz-forest Yep, you read that right! Every Thursday, the Cuddle Hotel Gams celebrates an evening right out of “A Thousand and One Nights” in Austria’s Bregenz Forest of all places, wafting its guests away on a genuine flying carpet into an Arabian Nights fairy tale! Entrance to A Thousand and One Night To be sure, usually when we think “Arabian Nights,” we picture ourselves sitting in a plane heading toward the magical East — on an imagined flying carpet of sorts. But, in this case, we’re flying along in our car in direction Bregenz Forest headed for the town of Bezau to be exact. This is where the Cuddle Hotel Gams beckons with its special adventure night. Every Thursday, in fact, the hotel is completely transformed into an enchanted grotto that might come straight out of the Arabian Nights. Uncounted numbers of little lamps, candles amidst Eastern scents, nuts and fruits, two Arabian camels, colorful pillows and baldachins serve to create a puissant mood … Lobby mood lights Lobby in the Cuddle Hotel Gams Eastern mood with Arabian camel Another camel decoration for Arabian Nights Champagne and tuna morsels as welcome greeting For the blink of an eye, we forget that we are in Austria… until the friendly desk clerk prompts us in her pleasant Bregenz Forest accent to step onto the flying carpet that will indeed waft us to our Cuddle Suite. An oversized fan provides the necessary airflow… So, now the trip starts in proper style after all! A Cuddle Suite straight out of Arabian Nights Canopy bed in the Cuddle Suite We land in our equally Eastern-themed Cuddle Suite to find our bathrobes and slippers already laid out for us. For this special night, the entire hotel premises (including the bar, lounge, lobby, and wellness oasis) become bathrobe territory. Pillows and blankets are scattered about for getting comfortable anywhere. No doubt about it! Walter and Katja in their Thousand and One Night outfits Cuddle Team bathrobes Curiosity piqued, we explore the various spaces: in the Pur Pur Bar and then in the spa lobby, aphrodisiac delicacies waft past temptingly before we move on to sate ourselves on the culinary flights of fancy spread out on an Eastern-style buffet. Fruits and nuts as starters Eastern delicacies from the buffet Never-ending buffet… In the Da Vinci Spa For this evening until midnight, the Da Vinci Spa offers refreshing infusions and Eastern cleansing rituals. What’s more, we treat ourselves to the “Thousand and One Night” Ceremony — a relaxation treatment that precedes the sisha and sweetened mint tea with which we close out our wellness evening in the spa. Decorated lobby of the Da Vinci Spa Romantic candle arrangement in the Da Vinci Spa You can read how we experienced the hotel on “normal” days in this comprehensive separate report. ## Time for two – in Austria’s Cuddle Hotel Gams Source: https://travelmemo.com/austria/cuddle-hotel-austria Not long ago we were abducted into “A Thousand and One Nights” by Austria’s Cuddle Hotel Gams as it does for its guests every Thursday. But, it is also possible on any other day to be seduced into a time for two in this special ambiance… Love has the starring role here, with the Kuschel Hotel Gams in the town of Bezau, located in Austria’s Bregenz Forest, providing the suitably romantic setting. Picture the 4-star Superior Hotel as divided into different buildings: there is the main “Gams” house dating from the 17th century where you find yourself in the public areas like lobby, bar lounge and restaurant. From there you retire to romance in the “Flower Palace” or the “Cocoon” with their so-called cuddle suites. Flower Palace room tower of the Cuddle Hotel Gams This is more or less how it goes then: From the cuddle suites in the Flower Palace A canopy bed, a whirlpool under a starry sky and many Oriental details guarantee unforgettable hours for two. Because this is exactly what the hotelier couple Ellen Nenning and Andreas Mennel specialize in: for more than 20 years, they have spoiled guest couples who want to give each other the gift of time, time for two as it were… be they newly in love, fallen in love again or still in love. Or it could be a mother and daughter or two women who are best friends for that matter. This time around, we did not catch sight of any father and son duos. But guys absolutely should not let themselves be put off by the “enchanting” (or for them possibly “disenchanting”) term cuddle hotel. There is only one way to go: Close your eyes and charge ahead! Even Walter finally came around… for the second time in ten years, no less! The hotel is said to be especially popular with young parents traveling without the next generation in tow during the Thousand and One Nights events happening every Thursday. Just a few hours driving time from home, they can savor an Orient experience of the choicest kind. If need be, they can make it back home in time, just in case the kids did not hit it off as hoped with the babysitter. As for the colors in the cuddle suites, you are met there by the four “house colors” of gold, blue, green, and even purple… Cuddle suite canopy bed Sofa with pillows to make it just as cozy as can be Oriental-style lamp Bathroom with oriental screening Cuddle hotel style relaxing in the Da Vinci Spa The “Da Vinci Spa” wellness oasis spreads over 2,000 m2. The cuddle and gourmet philosophy continues here. This dream world consists of a wellness lounge, various lounging rooms, a Kneipp Walk barefoot walkway, diverse saunas, a heated outside pool, a whirlpool with a view of nature and a heart-shaped pond in the romance garden. And, of course, various treatment rooms are available for individual applications. Spa lobby with reception In contrast to the turquoise-blue Thousand and One Nights the previous evening, today in the spa lobby warm earth tones predominate. Inspired, we go for a chocolate-coconut treatment. ..it’s done by applying the warm packs on each other’s skins in a private steam bath. The pack really consists of coconut and chocolate! But not for eating (it really has a brutally seductive taste), for afterwards come cups of hot chocolate with whipped cream before we round out the treatment in the cuddle suite’s own whirlpool. Accompanied by assorted chocolate sticks and a chocolate cake! Hot cocoa with whipped cream following the choco-coco pack… Restaurant Goldstück and the Pur Pur Bar After the indeed rather sweet choco binge, we are looking forward to something salty, more specifically to dinner. Not before indulging in a prior apéro in the atmospheric Pur Pur, it goes without saying. Pur Pur Bar with (really) high back chairs Fauteuils in the Lounge and hotel bar The restaurant with view into the open show kitchen is stylishly appointed. With swanky fauteuils upholstered in purple and blue it almost seemed we were invited to sup at a king’s table. Anyway, that is what we felt like ;-) Table set for two in Restaurant Goldstück David, the friendly, jocular waiter led us through the selection of appetizers, main courses and desserts found on the day’s menu. We decided on the following: Variations on pumpkin appetizer (Terrific, but why the muesli bar?) Main course: Back of suckling pig with leek tart on white cabbage with potatoes Pear with caramel ice cream for dessert By the way — the literally towering cheese selection is outstanding! Absolutely leave a little room for it before the dessert. Or grab some the next morning! Copious breakfast with view The cuddle hotel really does offer the perfect place to stay for an enjoyable time that lives up to its motto — a time for two, that is. If you are interested in the somewhat choicer wellness experience, you will not regret booking the Thousand and One Nights event on which the curtain rises every Thursday. Our thanks this time go to… … the bustling hotel directress Ellen Nenning and her team! Thanks for the invitation and the interesting disquisition on hotel operations. And finally, a sincere thanks to Christiane Hannsmann of the PR agency MAROundPartner for facilitating our stay! ## Justine’s tramping boots go on a roadie Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/justine-tramping-boots-motorhome-wanaka Justine Tyerman’s TBs (tramping boots) spend an idyllic week with a beautiful Italian… The TBs were deliriously happy travelling with Lucy. She was everything they had ever dreamed of – buxom, powerful, aristocratic… and Italian. Furthermore, they had no competition. They were the footwear of choice every day and there were no poncy HHs (high heels) strutting about to cause aggravation. The TBs setting off for a day’s hiking We spent an idyllic winter week ambling from Christchurch to Queenstown via the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island in a luxurious 6-berth JUCY Casa Plus motorhome – nicknamed Lucy after the curvaceous woman on the outside of the Italian-made Fiat Ducato – stopping wherever we pleased for as long as we wished, which gave us a giddy sense of freedom. My husband Chris and I were like a couple of teenagers who had run away from home. Lunch by the camper LUCY at Hokitika Chris happy at the wheel The TBs were on my feet from dawn until well after dark when they snuggled up with their best mates, Chris’s TBs, beside Lucy’s efficient heater. They were in their element that week, hiking along mountain tracks, beaches, rivers and lakes we had always been in too much of a hurry to explore on earlier trips. The TBs loved the spectacular limestone rock formations at Castle Hill, climbing up to the Devil’s Punchbowl, a magnificent 131m waterfall high above the Bealey River at Arthur’s Pass, and trudging up the valley through ankle-deep snow on a gnarly side-track to the foot of Mt Rolleston. Castle Hill rock formations At Lake Brunner, we were treated to a watercolour sunset over a golden lake. We walked across a long swing bridge over the river and spotted the whio or rare blue duck which inhabit the area, a thrill for the TBs who are wild-life aficionados. Wandering along deserted West Coast beaches with the occasional dip in the Tasman Sea was a new experience for the TBs who are more accustomed to river silt and snow. Okarito Beach At Hokitika, we lunched beside a calm, silver sea and strolled down the beach to the river mouth past a memorial to the many ship wrecks that have occurred on the coast. The West Coast sunsets were dazzling especially at remote Okarito Beach where we sat on a driftwood log and toasted the fiery orb as it sank into the sea in a kaleidoscope of gold. Sunset at Okarito A stunning sunset at Okarito Beach on the West Coast of the South Island Sunset at Okarito Beach We parked up overnight at the tiny settlement of Okarito by a sparkling lagoon, the nesting ground of the rare kotuku (white heron), sacred to Maori. Thousands of native birds from more than 76 different species visit the lagoon, another thrill for the TBs. A small population of rowi or Okarito brown kiwi also lives nearby in an area of bush protected by the Department of Conservation. Hiking Franz Josef Glacier One of the few times the TBs were upstaged was the day we did the Franz Josef Glacier heli-hike expedition which required special boots and crampons. They were consigned to a locker with Chris’s TBs, both plotting karmic backlash for the ignominy of being incarcerated in an airless box for four or five hours. We flew by helicopter from NZ Glacier Guides’ Base in Franz Josef village to a landing site at The Pinnacles, high up the11-kilometre river of ice. We spent an afternoon with expert guide Tim Bluett exploring the maze of blue crevasses, ice caves and fractured chunks and spikes on the world’s steepest and fastest-flowing commercially-guided glacier. A perfect day on Franz Josef Glacier Hikers dwarfed by the immense size of Franz Josef Glacier© Ngai Tahu Tourism Guide Tim posing with some of our glacier group Justine and Chris on Franz Josef Glacier The day ended with a massage and a soak in the hot pools at Glacier Base – absolute bliss. By the time we retrieved the TBs from their ‘prison cell’, there was steam coming off their soles. To appease them, I promised we would do their favourite hike once we reached Wanaka. They recovered their good humour as we hiked around Lake Matheson, famous for the reflections of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman in the black satin water. The walk took us through rainforest where the moss was iridescent green, sparkling with diamantes of dew. We struck wild weather at Jackson Bay at the end of the West Coast road but being fully self-contained with kitchen and bathroom facilities meant we did not have to set foot outside. The pounding sea just metres away added to the sense of cosiness and security we felt inside sturdy Lucy. Even the TBs were happy to hunker down and wait out the storm. Wanaka At Haast, we farewelled the West Coast and headed for Wanaka. En route we hiked through native forest to the Blue Pools where the Makarora and Blue Rivers meet. The glacier-fed water is described as azure-blue but the TBs disputed this saying the water was startlingly turquoise-green. For once, I had to agree. Sunset in Wanaka In Wanaka we parked on the lake edge at Glendhu Bay and as promised, took the TBs on their favourite hike to Rob Roy Glacier in the Mt Aspiring National Park, part of Te Wahipounamu UNESCO World Heritage site. They knew the route so well, I had trouble keeping up with them. We’ve climbed to the foot of the glacier a dozen times in all seasons but it never ceases to astound and delight me. The cold blue gleam of the glacier face is mesmerisingly beautiful. Occasionally, huge slabs of ice on the terminal face lose the fight against gravity and thunder down the valley in a white cloud, an awesome sight from a safe vantage point. Mt Aspiring from the Millennium Track, Wanaka The TB’s favourite hike, Rob Roy Glacier The following day, we hired SmartMotion electric bikes from Solarcycles in Wanaka and cycled along the mighty Clutha River to Luggate and back, 50km return. It was such a thrill for me to be able to keep up with my super-fit husband for once. The TBs happily stayed home with Lucy that day. Cycling is not their thing. They get dizzy with all that pedalling. Our e-bike expedition on the Clutha River near Wanaka Justine with her Smart Motion electric bike from Solarcycles We also hiked the 15km lake-edge Millennium Track which links dozens of pristine beaches with stunning views of Mt Aspiring, and skied at Treble Cone with free lift tickets thanks to JUCY’s Ski4Free deal. On our last day we drove over the Crown Range to Arrowtown, my childhood holiday home. We parked Lucy by the Arrow River and walked up the gorge towards the old gold mining ghost town of Macetown, retracing the steps of my childhood days. The TBs found all the reminiscing a bit tedious but they did enjoy splashing through the river and getting a good coating of silt. The iconic Cardrona Hotel on the Crown Range road Handing over Lucy’s keys to Megan at the Queenstown Airport JUCY depot was an emotional moment. She had carried us safely for 1000km over mountain passes and down the length of the West Coast through snow, rain, gales and sunshine, and for such a big rig, she was a dream to drive and operate. The TBs loved Lucy for her European sophistication and good looks but for us it was her capacity to look after all our needs and grant us freedom from a fixed itinerary that won our hearts. Loaded up with enough supplies for a week, we thought we might have to stow some non-perishables in the outside storage compartments but we were surprised to find everything fitted in her ample fridge and cupboards. And having a bathroom with shower and toilet facilities was the ultimate luxury… not to mention wifi, a DVD player and GPS. Despite predictions from our friends that we would freeze to death in a motorhome in the winter in the South Island, Lucy kept us warm at all times, even when temperatures plummeted to minus-something. On our first night in a blizzard at Arthur’s Pass, we tossed out our hot water bottles, threw off the extra duvets and opened the skylights. We both relished the simple life we led on the road and didn’t want to return to our high-pressure lives ruled by deadlines and a fixed abode. The TBs shed a tear as we said goodbye to Lucy – they whispered ‘arrivederci… see you again in the summer’. Factbox Justine Tyerman travelled in a JUCY Casa Plus motorhome courtesy of JUCY Rentals. JUCY’s Ski4Free deal gives you free skiing at Treble Cone near Wanaka. Franz Josef Glacier Guides NZ run the Glacier Explorer heli-hike expedition. Getting there: Air NZ flies direct Auckland to Christchurch and Auckland to Queenstown, return. ## A weekend city trip to Sofia with the gang Source: https://travelmemo.com/bulgaria/weekend-city-trip-sofia At the moment, Bulgaria is not quite considered a normal excursion target. But that makes it even better suited for our annual boys’ weekend getaway. And so, the seven of us hit the road to start a conversation with Sofia. Reading time 02:22 minutes. Design Hotels Walter in a design trance Choosing a hotel is no problem: DesignHotels.com has the centrally located Sense Hotel. It is supposed to have a nice restaurant to boot and a legendary rooftop bar. Together they are the epicenter of Sofia’s “see and be seen” jet set: apparently, a drink at the bar with a 360 degree view of the Old Town is de rigueur after a lengthy dinner. What more can we ask for? Drinks in the rooftop bar looking at the Saint Alexander Nevski Cathedral But, of course, once the boyz hit town, they are going to expertly explore it. On foot. (Because the sightseeing bus strikes us as a bit dubious. Anyway, it left us standing – took off right before our noses!) In line with our cultural proclivities, the very first thing we explore is the Cathedral of Saint Alexander Nevski glistening in the sunlight, followed by the catacombs beneath the Sveta Temples built one top of the other over the centuries. Four in number to be exact! (Gratefully, they stack up right across from the hotel.) In the Sveta Sofia Temple After so much heavy history, we let hunger be our guide and reconnoiter the quarters around the pedestrian mall. Shops and street restaurants line up along it as far as the eye can see. With the whining getting louder by the minute, we jostle our way into the “Samurai“. Despite the Asian come-on, they dish out good and solid fare in quantity here. And the well-matched local beer – a Kamenitza – tastes great. The only thing we turn thumbs down on is the red wine; no doubt, it’s a direct consequence of the previous evening. We make do instead with copious Bloody Marys. We felt better after that. Freshly fortified with carbs, proteins and the accompaniments, we head back to the hotel by way of the “artist’s districts.” Well, maybe that’s being a little generous; still, the graffiti was definitely tops. The former House of the Communist Party Roofed-over archeological dig “Traffic light control” Speeding tram Spectacular evening meal in Sofia To connoisseurs of local color, we can recommend the Moma ‘Bulgarian Food and Wine’. The waiters volubly indoctrinate us in the typical local appetizers and main courses and then bring us the matching Bulgarian Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and the — highly recommended — excellent red Mavrud! The red that tastes of roses you can easily do without. But all other recommendations were on the money! Bulgarian Restaurant Moma If you want to let yourself be distracted slightly by dolled-up women while at dinner, give the Sense Hotel’s restaurant a try. The fare here presents itself designed in the same fashion the hotel and its guests are. As already pointed out, you’ll do well to head to the top floor for that after-dinner drink. Restaurant in the Sense Hotel Mornings, they pile up a “dazzling breakfast buffet,” to our general bemusement (and sleepy blinking.) With VERY attentive personnel: the ladies and gents knew what I wanted practically before I did! Well played! Breakfast table in the roof restaurant Breakfast plates with view of the Saint Alexander Nevski Cathedral At first, Sofia does not seem to offer quite sooo much as other European metropoles. But it will do if you want to pull a long weekend here… ## Ecco Restaurant – Zurich’s gourmet palace with a view Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/ecco-gourmet-restaurant-zurich-atlantis-hotel Ecco Restaurant in the Hotel Atlantis by Giardino. At the foot of Zurich’s very own mountain called Üetliberg. Much buzzed about. Often praised. Does it live up to the promise? Let’s go check it out… Reading time 04:08 minutes The Giardino Hotel Group is justly famous for its refined hotel arts, something we knew enough to report on shortly after launching our travel blogger career. That time we made much of the Giardino Mountain (but obviously before I knew that food photos tend to have a yellow cast…). For practical reasons, beautiful hotels often also come with superior restaurants: But, what Executive Chef Stefan Heilemann and his young kitchen brigade dish up here by the Üetliberg is well-nigh an unending parade of culinary highlights. Or call it a sequence of little and big dishes for the gods. But let’s take it one at a time… It so happened that, on a gorgeous summer’s day, we also treated ourselves to a beautiful meal at Ecco. To let us eat a little more without upsetting our beauty sleep, we met for lunch instead of dinner. It leaves more leeway for digestion. In hindsight, this revealed itself as a wise choice, for when Ecco announces a 5-course meal it means that the bustling servers feelingly appear at least 10 times with amuse-bouches, pre-amuse bouches, pre-appetizers and so on. Naturally, they do not count against the official 5 courses… The butter here incidentally does not melt in the mouth because they froth it with buttermilk. Or serve it in a second bowl as smoked butter. Brutally seductive! At all events, almost too much of a good thing: barely have you dipped into the pretty butter puff just once, already they proffer a pristine new one… Butter frothed with buttermilk and smoked butter A bit about amuse-bouches and appetizers… When a restaurant review dwells at length on a little thing like butter, the well-disposed reader can already see rough going ahead: if not reading this with a full stomach, he or she now ought to conveniently click ahead to a pizza delivery or something. I hereby assume no liability for any hunger attacks.. So, now into the fray, drawing on all our reserves! Even while we are still all oohs and aahs about the spectacular view of Zurich or the elegant restaurant’s interior, the troops commanded by Stefan Heilemann are already working up little works of art like poached oysters or marinated anchovies. But it could just as easily be watermelon between sheep’s cheese or a cannelone of calf. Or a smoked quail with fake champignon mousse, real champignon and bean. Just a few amuse-bouches, that’s all… Ecco Restaurant rooftop terrace with view of Zurich Dazzlingly elegant interior … on to the main dishes… Naturally, the amuse-bouches are invariably served in small bites – no wish to compete with the main course – and always with an explanation of each ingredient and how prepared. I would not be surprised if the staff spends most of the preparation time memorizing the ingredients. In any event, for the most part I managed to get my photos shot while the menu creations were declaimed with drumrolls and fanfares. It could be about salmon trout with crayfish on cauliflower, or also Dublin Bay prawn (a langoustine, in our book) with porcini and calf’s head. But then, it could just as well be an Atlantic sea bass with artichoke and chanterelle or Ormaling pork with pointed cabbage and apple. And if that is not enough hyperbole for you, give the grained Wagyu beef a try. To be sure, I should add, we were a party of four. Besides me, there was another young man, so that there was quite a bit of carnivorous devouring going on. Which accounts for the rather large number of dishes, considering it was “just a Sunday lunch.” Salmon trout with crayfish on cauliflower Dublin Bay prawn with porcini and calf’s head Atlantic sea bass with artichoke and chanterelle Ormaling pork with pointed cabbage and apple Wagyu Beef Wow. Sheer poetry! Words fail us… Each dish is not merely presented attractively, but it impresses as being coordinated to make you eager for the next course. Or a sip of wine, naturally! Can’t go wrong with that! After all, the health fanatics always preach that you should stay well-hydrated… White wine with its cress bed and fitting scissors … on to the desserts! As is their wont in establishments with high aspirations, guests are not sent on their way after the main dish. Restaurant Ecco is no exception and the staff segues with a gentle smile into the dessert menu selection: those little cream cake slices really make a fine “in-between dessert“! Or perhaps you would prefer instead a little home-made ice cream? As the final act, with help from watchmaker Hublot, they open a small jeweler’s case that holds a desert going by the explosive name Big Bang Tutti Frutti! All right, it is possible to end on a quieter note by settling for the Felchlin “Elvisia” chocolate with cherry and grains. And as the drawn-out luncheon then finally threatens to end with an espresso macchiato, the attentive hosts up the ante just one more notch with seductively filled pralines for us… Hublot Big Bang Tutti Frutti dessert Felchlin “Elvisia” chocolate with cherry and grains Kitchen magician: Executive Chef Stefan Heilemann The Restaurant Ecco terrace The perfect Sunday menu! Or as we Italians say, “Ecco lo qua,” “there it is!”… Price list Logic has it that there is no paradise. These lucullan flights of fancy come with a price tag. And by no means a small one. But, still, it struck us as “well worth it.” If not every Sunday… 3 course menu CHF 148 4 course menu CHF 162 5 course menu CHF 174 6 course menu CHF 184 7 course menu CHF 194 8 course menu CHF 204 And if you go for the “chef’s special,” that is, the pan-fried entrecôte of Japanese Wagyu skirt, be prepared to plunk down an additional CHF 98. For 50 grams. Address Restaurant Ecco im Atlantis by Giardino Hotel Döltschiweg 234 8055 Zürich To the Restaurant website ## Seerose Resort & Spa – cocooning by Lake Hallwil Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/seerose-resort-spa-cocooning-by-lake-hallwil On a cold, drizzly autumn day, is there anything better than retreating into a warm, cozy cocoon? This is exactly the autumn delight that the Seerose Resort & Spa on Hallwilersee (Lake Hallwil) celebrates in multiple ways… Lake Hallwil with its lakeside resort is, of course, reputed for its charms even when the sun is shining (the 500 parking spaces are far from enough then). Summer is when Seerose Resort & Spa guests can hang out and relax to their hearts’ delight in its terraces and gardens, balconies and wooden bath tubs, restaurants and bars. But even during grey fall weather, the Seerose never disappoints its guests. Jetty by the Seerose on Lake Hallwil Thai Spa with colorful cocoons The atmospheric, two story Cocon Thai Spa with view of the fog-draped meadows bordering Lake Hallwil practically melts your seasonal blues and everyday cares away. Entrance to Cocon Thai Spa A cold, grey drizzle outside makes it even more of a treat to escape into a series of hot-colored cocoons inside: from the gold-and-white salt air cocoon, spa aficionados can wander over to the (blue-green) steam bath cocoon or the (violet) sauna cocoon. These units, white on the outside and positioned around the spa, in fact resemble big cocoons. And on the upper floor, guests can enjoy treatments in rooms also laid out honeycomb-fashion that are named after Thai cities or islands. The selection of treatments and massages on offer here is gigantic! Cocoon and recliners in the Thai Spa The Cocoon and Junior Suites In the Cocoon Suite, the interior concept is “the exotic in the familiar”. It riffs on the boat houses that are a common sight around Lake Hallwil. But here they used dark-stained applewood from this region instead of weatherproof oak. The contrasting colorful curtains and fabrics are inspired by Thailand’s vibrant water markets. We confess we might not have made the connections had it not been for a few murmured helpful hints. Junior Suite South The Junior Suite is also very generously sized, as is the bathroom with the cool rain forest shower that changes colors while you are showering. “How original”, thought Walter (I could hardly get him out of the shower!) But, for me, the faucets in the form of brass tubes suspended from the ceiling were not just attractive and original: you can actually get your hands under the water jet! Not always possible in designer hotels… Bathroom with a view One amenity that we did not try (partly for lack of time but also because of the weather) was the bathtub on the balcony: the tub fills with warm water at the push of a button, offering an al fresco bath experience while enjoying the view of Lake Hallwil! Junior Suite with balcony bathtub Note that in the adjoining “Classic” hotel wing you can overnight in Natural Chic style or else in the “Elements” wing, where the room decor plays off the four elements earth, water, fire and air. Classic room Element room “Water” The man behind the cocoons The “cocoon concept” is the brainchild of go-getting hotel owner Felix Suhner. He developed his love of things Thai when he helped another class act hotelier, Urs Karli, roll out THE Thai Restaurant in Lucerne some years ago. Ever since, the philosophy of the “land of smiles” has had him in its grip, as evidenced by how it pervades the Seerose Resort & Spa. Marketing manager Karin Zubler with hotel owner Felix Suhner A bit of history: in 1994, Felix Suhner took over the hotel from his father who had opened it as Hotel Seerose Classic in 1977. Some ten years after taking charge, in 2003, Felix expanded the hotel with the Seerose Elements addition and a Thai restaurant. A decade later, came the Cocoon wing expansion, when the Hotel Seerose became the Seerose Resort & Spa with its on-site Thai spa. The personable hotelier and entrepreneur who, by now, heads up a small hotel empire – the Balance Hotel Group – does not like routine. He thrives on change and his many-faceted responsibilities. He also keeps up with the times; hence, the three differing design worlds in a single resort. The three hotel wings, incidentally, each had a different interior designer, our visibly pleased hotelier host informs us. Like his mentor Urs Karli, Suhner wants to set his hotels apart from the competition. With the Seerose Resort & Spa, he certainly met with success. Kudos! In Thailand, elephants bring good luck The Samui Thai Restaurant Thanks to a menu with several courses, we could let our taste buds tour the culinary arts of the Samui Thai Restaurant‘s chefs, who all come from Thailand, as do the the female Thai servers clad in traditional garb who looked after us. Authenticity to the utmost matters to Felix Suhner, and so he was personally involved in sourcing the decorative elements and tableware directly from Thailand. The only person in the restaurant without a Thai accent is the restaurant manager. He makes up for it with an Austrian one ;-) Restaurant Samui Thai The dishes are not especially hot spice wise. We actually would have liked a dash more authenticity here. Those who like their fare without exotic spice can opt for the Cocon Restaurant, where, besides breakfast, they serve Swiss dishes in Thai-style culinary variety. Or, you can go for traditional cuisine and have French-accented classic Swiss dishes in the Seerose Restaurant. And every one of them comes with lake frontage! Mental note duly made of that for the next hot summer ;-) Restaurant Seerose Our thanks go to… … Felix Suhner, owner of the Balance Hotels, for the generous invitation and interesting conversation. Warm thanks also to Karin Zubler for the informative tour of the premises. And, finally: many thanks to Julia Faulhaber, principal in Faulhaber Marketing Services for brokering our stay. We really enjoyed “cocooning” on a November weekend. Address and list of Balance Hotels Seerose Resort & Spa Seerosenstrasse 1 5616 Meisterschwanden Homepage: www.seerose.ch The Balance Hotels include: Hotel Sonne Bad Bubendorf Bad Ramsach Quellhotel Mürset Restaurants ## A hike in beauty: the trail to Seealpsee Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hiking-trail-seealpsee Recently, we lifted our heads and sniffed fresh mountain air again. Since we are not what you would call “hard core hikers,” we had settled for a simple walking tour in the Alpstein mountain range in Appenzell Canton. Once again, the beauty of these mountains and the lake they call Seealpsee just blew us away! Reading time 01:21 minute. We drive to Wasserauen, where we find hundreds of Sunday day trippers who likely had the same idea. The Alpstein region is known for having one of the densest networks of hiking trails in Switzerland. Most of the mountain lovers tend to simply make for the valley station of the Ebenalp Aerial Tramway that will loft them up to the legendary Aescher / Wildkirchli mountain inn, among other places. Could it be in fact the most photographed of Switzerland’s mountain inns? The queue is too long for us and so we put one hiking boot before the other and hike up through the green beechwood forest and the steep Hüttentobel ravine all the way up to the Hütten alpine meadow. From here already a magnificent vista opens before us with Säntis, the highest peak in the Alpstein range, rising in front of us. We hike on leisurely to the mountain lake with the peculiar sounding “Seealpsee” name. The way takes us past many small, abandoned looking alpine huts. After we have walked around – in good Appenzell dialect “rond-omm” – the lake, we arrive at the well patronized Seealpsee mountain inn. We revivify ourselves over coffee and cake, affected as always by the majestic mountain scenery all around us. Heading back now, we negotiate the steep descent along the overhanging rock face of the ravine carved by the Schwendibach stream until we’re down in the valley again that leads to Wasserauen. The round trip hike from Wasserauen takes about 2 1/4 hours – that is, only if you don’t count the photo opps and stopover at the mountain restaurant. Add however much time those will take up as a function of photographic agility or your hunger state… ## A 2-lake ramble: Mystical Cresta to picturesque Cauma Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/cresta-and-cauma-lake We surely have no shortage of mountain lakes in Switzerland. Granted, they’re not always easy to reach — or it may at least take a respectable hike first. Not so in the case of Lake Cresta and Lake Cauma! Let us show you here how to navigate to them for your mountain waterside enjoyment: Reading time 01:42 minute. I love lakes! Whenver we take off on one of our hiking trips, I almost alway pick a route that will take us past an idyllic mountain lake. Maybe it’s the watery element per se, but it may also be the opalescent blue-green color that casts a spell on me. When fog at our lower elevations was once again in a recent weekend forecast, we took off for sunny (hence fog-less) Graubünden. As we drove in direction Flims we were still weighing our final destination: should we go for smaller, less well known Lake Cresta or the turquoise waters of Lake Cauma instead? Well, why “instead”? You can do both lakes without problem: all it takes is a short hike through a stretch of the great Flims pine forest. Hiking the Flims forest in the fall Picturesque Lake Cresta Lake Cresta sits between the Trin and Flims municipalities. It suddenly opens up before you, ringed by greenery in a small forest clearing. With its abandoned jetty and a raft in the middle of the lake, it strikes me as almost mystical. Bench with a view of Lake Cresta As it were, Lake Cresta is listed as a protected nature landmark of Graubünden Canton and is only reached on foot. But, as promised, it’s an easy hike. Turquoise Lake Cauma After a relaxed hike through the forest, we come upon the more popular Lake Cauma. With an islet in its middle and the spectacular turquoise color of its water, it looks somehow paradisical and painterly at the same time. Lake Cauma in the vicinity of Flims Here you have our route: Trin-Mulin – Lake Cresta – Lake Cauma – Flims – Felsbach Gorge – Trin-Mulin. And, here you will find a few more details: a map, altitude, distances and my Walter’s pulse rate during the hike. In total, it took us 4 1/2 hours, but that includes lots of photo opportunity stops and a lovely picnic by Lake Cauma. For anyone interested in also catching a glimpse of the Rhine Gorge a.k.a. Switzerland’s Grand Canyon (highly recommended!): a little detour between the two lakes will take you via Conn to the “II Spir” viewing platform (“common swift” in the Romansch language). The view is absolutely worth it! ## Ridge hiking – single file, from Klingenstock to the Fronalpstock Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hiking-fronalpstock-klingenstock They’re here again… those days when people say: grey below, blue above.That was exactly what the weather forecast had in store recently. So, what are we waiting for? Strap on those hiking boots and lets go hike a ridge! This time we were drawn to Central Switzerland. Specifically, we were eager to hike the ridge from Klingenstock to the Fronalpstock. First stop: Stoos, at 1,300 meters above sea level. As a child, I made it twice to Stoos for ski camp. I have fond memories of this car-free mountain resort village, and, like a child, I can hardly wait to enjoy once more the glorious view of the lakes and Alps of Central Switzerland. Walter, too, is looking forward to the hike Our hike starts at the valley station of the Schlattli-Stoos funicular railway. Incidentally, right next to it they’re building a new one with a 110% grade that will be right up there with the world’s steepest when finished! Once arrived on the Stoos, we first pass the picturesque chapel on the way to the valley station of the chairlift that will take us up to the Fronalpstock. The little chapel on the Stoos — with the Mythen peaks looming behind it Good (and fit) hikers, of course, will tackle the ascent to the Fronalpstock on foot. We, on the other hand, opt to let ourselves be hoisted to the top in relaxed fashion and comfortably in the chair lift. Before we set foot on the ridge path, however, we absorb the glorious panoramic view before us, for in the distance west and north of here line up not just one but three of Central Switzerland’s most famous peaks: namely, Pilatus, Rigi and Mythen. And the fog blanket swathing parts of Lake Lucerne adds its own spectacular effect! Panoramic view of Lake Lucerne from Fronalpstock Another view of Lake Lucerne Normally, mountain or ridge hikes are fairly easy. But this one doesn’t start all that gently. Shortly after setting out, we hit a rather steep descent to the Furggeli and follow that with a climb up the opposite slope to the Huser Stock that threatens to have our thighs go into lactic shock. In parts, the ridge path is fairly steep and narrow. Fortunately, the tricky passages are secured with chains. We can thank Baumeler Reisen (a travel agent) for that! And yet, for this ridge hike, you still will need to be steady on your feet and not prone to vertigo, not to speak of owning a pair of sturdy boots. Katja and Walter before Lake Lucerne And so, after many ups and downs, we finally arrive at the Klingenstock, from where we cruise via chairlift back to the Stoos and next clatter all the way down to the valley bottom in the funicular. No question, but this ridge hike lives up to its billing. We truly relished our outing. Those who can get away during the week would be well served to do the hike on a weekday, however. That’s because on a weekend with good weather you can count on lots of “oncoming traffic.” And that means there’s only one way to do this hike then: single file. ## Our top 6 Ibiza beach clubs – lovely beaches, fine food worth a look Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/ibiza/ibiza-beach-club-ranking Funny thing about those beach clubs on Ibiza. On the one hand, they strike me as totally trendy and inviting, but then… do you really need that booming bass to go with the delicious seabass? Well, if you don’t go, you’ll never know. So, we went, and here you have the result: our Ibiza beach club ranking. 6. Elements Ibiza A remote beach club in the island’s north near Cala Benirras which lies north of San Miguel. elements-ibiza.com Restaurant patio with weathered furniture The advertised seclusion of Elements Ibiza takes nothing away from its parking lot. The traveler paying an off-season visit can’t help wonder what all the giant but empty expanses of parking spaces some distance from the beach signify. And that they charge a 3-euro parking fee on top of it. Gradually it sinks in: they must have a hell of a traffic jam here in the summer… From a distance, the Elements Ibiza Beach Club looks a bit scruffy. Close-up, it turns out the furniture is merely weathered. But with design pretentions, no less! You’re never quite sure if the faded colors stem from a creative urge or the raspy ocean breeze. The restaurant with its Mediterranean cuisine comes with a fresh juice bar. The fruit press may make a devilish noise, but the juices come across as heavenly health-wise. That they don’t taste good may have something to do with the healthy ingredients…they can’t help it, I suppose. But then their carpaccio of seabass is that much better for it. Let it also be noted that madam can book a massage or do some boutique shopping here. In Ibiza, little shops are de rigueur for just about every establishment it seems. Restaurants and beach clubs are no exception. Oh, well, while you’re waiting, at least you can loll on the beach and languidly draw on a cigar. Or something. Lounge with shopping annex Table settings in Elements Ibiza And on we go, heading south now… 5. Nikki Beach www.nikkibeach.com Nikki Beach is a phenomenon. A concept. Everybody knows it now. That’s because it’s everywhere! Just east of Santa Eulària, Nikki Beach rears up before you like a fortress. No more dilapidation or beach shackdom; this is design with a capital D. Sun lounges, pool, lounges, bar, and restaurant are staged along the sandy shore. As we set foot into the club on a Monday afternoon in the off-season, it is practically empty of people and therefore perfect for our purpose – to serenely sip a flavorful cortado! And we would have, if the DJane hadn’t made all hell break loose. Entrance to Nikki Beach Nikki Beach Pool The beach at Nikki Beach Club These two cortados – espressos Spanish style with steamed milk – gave their all We wait what seems like an eternity for the young gent in white shorts and suntanned sporty calves, but eventually we do get to slurp our “premium coffee.” Bottoms up! 4. Blue Marlin Location: West of Eivissa, i.e., Ibiza Town in the local lingo. Logic would have it situated on a beach as well. Because barring that, it wouldn’t be a beach club, now would it? Indeed, we found it located on Cala Jondal. www.bluemarlinibiza.com Wall-to-wall glitterati. Pounding basses already in the parking lot. Maserati everywhere. Noble ambiance, beautiful people, much Champagne, really much! Lots of sunglasses, too. A bit too much testosterone and silicone, too, in any case. Shrill and spectacular! Must see and worth seeing just for that! But we make our getaway before too long. It’s a tad too loud and crowded for a hot Saturday afternoon. It’s probably the warm-up for the closing romp later that evening…because at the end of September this island shuts down. Or at least the party clubs do. And with that, the airline connections also dwindle. Statue in front of the Blue Marlin Ibiza In the restaurant Stylish beach towels and beach lounges But now it’s on to our Top 3 beach clubs: 3. Cotton Beach Club Ibiza We’re sunning ourselves on Cala Tarida, a beach in the southwestern part of the island. cottonbeachclub.com The location on an oceanside cliff will blow you away! So will the legendary Ibiza sound – it’s LOUD. We can hardly hear ourselves speak. But the locals, unperturbed, are talking into their smartphones while gesticulating wildly. Or maybe they’re putting on a show. I mean, how can anyone understand them? It’s all Spanish to us… The staff strikes us as borderline arrogant, probably because the place is REALLY well-frequented. They give us a rather pitying look when we let on that we showed up without lunch reservations. They try to keep us in a good mood with freshly pressed fruit juices at the bar. Easy does it, we have time, it’s only 3 p.m. and the restaurant is only slowly filling up. Rescued! We do manage to snag some good service. And a table to go with it. We opt for more fish, this time a fish soup of perch with shrimp and scallop.Top flight fare! The Cotton Beach Club’s white Vespa Entryway to the Cotton Beach Club Cotton Beach Club Logo Beach view from the restaurant Fish soup with scallop and shrimp And the cortado naturally also is of the best. But that’s normalcy in Spain. They definitely have a knack for it. 2. Atzaró Beach Let’s head diagonally across the island now. That brings us to Cala Nova beach in Ibiza’s northeast. atzaro.com To visit Atzaró Beach means diving into a very relaxed atmosphere, slightly elevated above the bordering beach. Pleasant (cute) server Hot pants Cool sounds Hot snacks And a boutique. Natch! Once more with feeling! Part of the coast line fronting the Atzaro Beach Club Walter & Katja in Atzaró Beach Club. Love those sunglasses! Patio of the Atzaro Beach Club Chipirones fritters with fruit juice (well, why not!) Cortados on Atzaró beach Goes without saying, that the cortado here, too, was out of this world… And now on to our Top Pick, far and away our favorite! 1. Amante Ibiza Beach Club Point your rental car toward the island’s mideast to Cala Longa… www.amanteibiza.com The Amante Restaurant belongs to the beach club of the same name. Despite or maybe because here, too, the beautiful and the rich are present in superior numbers, the restaurant integrates style and elegance. The fish plates are delicious and attractively presented. Absolutely try the sea bass (lubina) from the grill! The service is classy. If you skip making a reservation (online is fine, too) you can wait in the noble lounge with ocean view and while away the moments doing much seeing and being seen. The restaurant may feel very small, but it actually occupies several levels on the steep shore. The waiters expertly balance the dishes on their huge trays up and down the white wooden stairs. Down on the beach, they also have a live band playing, or you can just throw yourself into one of the fatboys lying around and catch some outdoor cinema. Or hang on the beach. Whatever suits. It doesn’t get any better! Entering the Amanta Beach Club Ibiza Well-employed reception in the Amante Ibiza Waiting lounge with style and a view Dining table with view And they tell us there are even more beach clubs in Ibiza! Have a find to share? ## Ibiza: hippie and party paradise? A closer look x 7 Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/ibiza/ibiza-hippie-island I’ll admit it: when Walter floated the idea of flying to Ibiza, I was underwhelmed. What, Ibiza? … No, really? The infamous jet set island teeming with end-to-end parties? Count me out! When the Venga Boys sang “Yeah, I’m going to Ibiza” back in the 80s, I would have given anything to dance a couple of nights away on the fabled island. But with just a couple… of years now come and gone, I go for vacations with lots of nature and a modicum of the sort of crowd scenes you find in the Ushuaia Club, for example, never mind the heaps of people at the Playa d’en Bossa. Well, anyway, after a while of Walter being his persuasive self, we wound up booking the flight to Ibiza. There we found two cute places to stay that promised quiet and relaxation away from the party hubbub. And, yes indeed, — we spent a couple of gorgeous days at the Hacienda Na Xamena and the Ca Na Xica boutique hotel. Hacienda Na Xamena Ca Na Xica Naturally, because we just can’t see ourselves lounging around the livelong day, even in these lovely oases, we wound up exploring the island. Here’s one result of our exertions: pointers to 7 things no visitor to the island should miss… 1. Check out a hidden cove Whether its silken sand, wild rock formations, or pebbles: you’ll find beaches and coves aplenty where you can stretch out in the sun and linger a while. One of the most magical ones we saw is the Cala Salada cove. Cliffs, sand, and pine forest combine to create a splendid nature setting here. Cala Salada 2. Climb Sa Talaia, the “local mountain” Take your pick of shank’s mare, the bike or, yes, the car: it all depends on the conditions and temperature how you choose to reach Ibiza’s highest mountain. But look out: the unpaved mountain road winds in daring serpentine loops up to the top. In places, we had to shift down and proceed in first gear! Once on top, you get a terrific view of the coves all around and, in fact, of half the island. The view from Ibiza’s tallest mountain, Sa Talaia 3. Explore Ibiza’s Old Town The castle wall with keep and the cathedral all dating from the Renaissance are impressive. It’s an absolute MUST on any Ibiza visit to walk through the Old Town’s narrow lanes full of nooks and crannies — not least because the Old Town of Eivissa (the local name for Ibiza Town) has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. Just be sure, in any case, to wear a sturdy pair of shoes so that you can cut a fine surefooted figure at all times on the occasionally very steep lanes paved centuries ago with cobblestones. Ibiza Castle and cathedral Old Town Ibiza with fortress White pigeon on Ibiza, aka the white island 4. Do some shopping in a hippie market Every Wednesday, thousands of market hounds converge on the Punta Arabi hippie market, the oldest one on the island. The goings on are colorful and frolicsome here. It pays to arrive early, because by noon it gets crowded amid the general shopping hustle and bustle. Hippie market at Punta Arabi Leather bags at the Punta Arabi hippie market Personally, I like the Las Dalias hippie market in San Carles even a little better. It may not be quite as big as the one in Punta Arabi, but it’s still quite extensive with lots of stands selling jewelry, exotic musical instruments, colorful clothing, leather goods, decor items. But for all that, everything is still a bit more refined here, including the beautiful restaurant with live band. Restaurant in the Las Dalias hippie market Apropos decor articles, in many Ibiza villages you’ll find small, neat shops that sell home furnishings in addition to their main business line of selling clothes. One example is “La Tienda es Cucons” in Santa Gertrudis. Very cute! Take a few steps more and in the Café Musset you can get a fine “cortado” that’s just waiting to be concocted for you. It’s an espresso with a touch of foamy milk that hits the spot after so much shopping. Home furnishings for sale in the Es Cucons shop in Santa Gertrudis Cafe Musset in Santa Gertrudis 5. Visit one of many churches More generally, a visit to Ibizan villages like San Miguel or San Juan is highly recommended so you can let them work their magic on you. But, careful, don’t get carried away: there is literally a centuries-old church in every one of these unspoiled dazzling white villages. Church in Sant Joan If it’s Katja, Walter & Che before a church in San Miguel… it must be Bolivia ;-) 6. Have a great meal in a chic restaurant There’s definitely no shortage of lovely, specialty restaurants on the island! We got some great leads from Ibiza connoisseurs of places where they serve great food in a special ambiance. We devoted a separate post to our very own personally reviewed restaurant 6-pack. Restaurant La Escollera Fish soup with scallops Espresso with a view 7. Kick back in a beach club for sun, ocean, and more. All right, finally, do be sure to drop in on one of the many beach clubs. The island certainly has enough of them. They invite you not just to hang and catch some rays, but also to eat, drink and feel like you never want to leave. We actually checked out several of these and will share the results of our clubbing soon. Nikki Beach Club Lounge at the Atzarò Beach Club Entryway to the Cotton Beach Club Conclusions reached after a week of Ibiza Okay, with the week on Ibiza behind us, I don’t mind confessing that it was a surprisingly positive experience: If you do a beeline around parties and beach clubs overflowing with testosterone and silicone, there’s plenty to do and discover: untouched nature with vast pine forests, gorgeous coves, romantic restaurants and idyllic villages with their cozy cafés, markets and stylishly appointed shops. In two words: highly recommended! Well, yes… and for party lovers the island is still paradise for sure ;-) ## Six good Ibiza restaurant bets Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/ibiza/six-good-ibiza-restaurant-bets It’s no secret that foodies go for Ibiza cuisine. We asked around to get a line on some restaurants that were not just palate-pleasers but also had good vibes. Here we share six eateries culled from those recommended to us that we checked out for ourselves: The Giri Café in San Joan Positively our favorite! From the outside, it looks like a dark little robber’s den. That said, hidden inside the entrance is a really tastefully appointed restaurant with a felicitous mix of materials and furniture and a big garden with outdoor sofas. The menu lists Mediterranean dishes, spiffed up in novel fashion with exotic ingredients and spices. And their freshly-pressed juices are super tasty! Not only is the atmosphere inviting and friendly, but so is the service. There seemed to be a smile on everyone’s lips as they greeted us with a personable “welcome”! Entrance to the Giri Café The Giri Café | Plaza España, 5 | 07810 Sant Joan de Labritja | Asian Bambuddha near Santa Eularia Bambuddha Restaurant resembles a village somewhere in Buddhist Asia. The interior spaces are lit up with a splendid glow, there are Buddha statues and Tantric influences everywhere…The opulent decor with erotic overtones is almost overwhelming. The dishes are supposed to have aphrodisiac effects and in the restaurant’s shop, wouldn’t you know, they peddle adult toys – in exclusive designs, no less. The story goes that owner John Moon let himself be inspired by Asiatic influences and seductiveness when setting up the restaurant. He did a fine job of it, no question! The kitchen, too, makes an impression. You have your choice of an exquisite assortment of sushi, sashimi, and a cuisine that fuses the best of Mediterranean and Asian cooking. Whatever you do, don’t miss out on the desserts! Bambuddha Asian Restaurant Bambuddha | Carretera de San Juan, km 8.5 | 07840 Santa Eularia del Río | Aubergine in Sant Miguel As the name suggests, Aubergine Restaurant caters to vegetable lovers and vegetarians. But not exclusively! The motto may be “farm to table” but on the menu Mediterranean dishes with fish, fowl, and meat coexist with dishes built on ingredients from the restaurant garden. The location is quite special: A finca with a large inner courtyard and the vegetable garden provides the backdrop for these culinary mini-fireworks. The restaurant’s interior is done in all white and mint colors and so is the small store where you can pick up some products to take home. Restaurant Aubergine Interior in white and mint The Aubergine’s inner courtyard with the restaurant wing Incidentally, don’t hold your breath waiting for a smile from the staff, – but they sure do know how to cook. Aubergine Restaurant | Carretera de San Miguel | 07815 Sant Miguel de Balansat | La Escollera Across from the Beach Club El Chiringuito (where we had planned to go originally but found the hubbub to be a bit over the top once we got closer), we discovered in La Escollera a fabulous beach restaurant. The mood is casual, the Ibiza sound carpet relaxing, and the waiter sassy-cheery with a line of non-stop patter. Our usual cortado hit the spot so well in the light sea breeze that I even allowed myself another cava. Well, if others won’t, I’ll just have to treat myself… Espresso with view in La Escollera La Escollera | Playa Es Cavallet | 07817 Sant Jordi de ses Salines | Skuma in Santa Eularia On the promenade by the yacht harbor in Santa Eularia del Rio, you can choose from any number of inviting looking seafood restaurants. Skuma comes across as rather unprepossessing, but it has what it takes where it counts: not only does it sit at the very front of the harbor where you can appraise all the sleek yachts, but they serve outstanding seafood here. The seabass (lubina in Spanish) was the best ever – sheer poetry! Restaurant Skuma overlooking the yacht harbor Restaurant Skuma with sun sail Insanely tasty seabass from the grill Skuma | Lugar Port Esportiu | 07840 Santa Eularia del Ríu | Le Momento in Santa Gertrudis In Le Momento they serve Spanish dishes with a soupçon of French elegance – just as the name of the restaurant hints. My lobster fusilli and Walter’s risotto were delicious! Here, too, they create an effect with a dash of erotica on the wall. Do I detect a trend here? Restaurant El Momento Santa Gertrudis is really an interesting little village with inviting shops (Es Cucons) and an elegant café (Musset). Le Momento Ibiza | Calle De Venda Santa Maria, 12 | 07814 Santa Gertrudis | A word to the wise Ibiza is expensive territory and in some of the recommended restaurants, too, the prices have it in them. But their fine food, combined with a special ambiance and occasionally original decor, really are all worth it. Be sure to make reservations even if you alight on Ibiza during the off-season! Some of the restaurants let you make reservations online. We also frequently found very good restaurants in the beach clubs. Tune in next time to this channel when we present our Ibiza beach club rankings. And then there are… As we all know, it’s impossible to be in the right place at the right time all the time; if that were possible, our recommended restaurant list actually would have been a much longer. If you have the time and are hungry, we were told that your palate will thank you for giving these eateries a try: El Olivo in Ibiza Town La Brasa in Ibiza Town km5 in Sant Joseph Elephant in San Rafael La Casita in Cala Longa Bon appétit! ## Ibiza design hotel Ca Na Xica – white oasis on the “white island” Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/ibiza/design-hotel-ca-na-xica-ibiza Ibiza, the “white island”. Now, how on earth did it get that name? Not likely that it came from the new-age white beach clubs. We pondered the question in proper style at the white design hotel Ca Na Xica. Welcome in white The white ibicenco-style main building awaits the partying-averse guest in the vicinity of San Miguel in the northern part of the small island of Ibiza. Blue window casements, barely glimpsed behind a centuries-old olive tree, accentuate the dazzling white exterior even more… The white main building during the blue hour Little chapel at Ca Na Xica Designhotel Ca Na Xica The classic Ibizan-style main building The compact design hotel Ca Na Xica offers a pleasing contrast to the effervescent night clubbing scene in the white beach clubs (we’ll soon present the six best ones in our own little ranking). On this former estate on nearly 20 acres of surrounding nature you can enjoy the peaceful, rural side of Ibiza. Evidently, the island offers more than “just” partying… Designer suites, olive trees, and more The main house, rebuilt in the traditional style, and the designer suites that sprawl to the left of the elongated pool, surrounded by centuries-old olive, fig, orange and lemon trees are enveloped in a noble silence. Fleshy cacti against red soil and the scent of lavender exude that austral feeling. The small spa with bar and man-made beach on the pool’s right side are all you need to completely decelerate on the spot. Ancient history… With the obligatory “white Ibiza sound” in our ears, a light breeze ruffling our hair, and hands wrapped around an Alhambra beer with its caramel finish, we idly wonder about the peculiar local place names, like “Eivissa“. For that is what the road sign says, should you be inclined to head for Ibiza Town in your rental car. And, it turns out that our hotel is in the vicinity of “Sant Miquel” not “San Miguel.” As usual, history tells the tale: The Spanish language hereabouts is stamped by Punic, a Phoenician-Carthaginian dialect. It was the Phoenicians who founded Ibosim (Ibiza) sometime around 654 BCE and implanted their culture on the “white island.” This included building white stuccoed houses to shelter them against the big sunlight. Aha, there you have it! …and modern So much for the past; back to the present and our sun lounger at the Ca Na Xica paradise: owners Alex Piella and Carla Espinosa from Barcelona together with Ibiza architect Marc Tur Torres, converted what was then still a small country house in 2015. The modern, cubical additions are done simply and with Nordic-looking furniture. A private inner courtyard opens on the bedroom and bath so that you can shower practically in the great outdoors! What a way to launch your day! Cubical Premiere Suites are hotel additions Premiere Suite living room Incidentally, they peddle the rumor here that the Punic name Ca Na Xica (House of the Little One) originated with a pregnant Carla during the hotel’s upgrading. But, more correctly according to Alex, the farmstead was already named “Casa de Francisca” and, being a bit superstitious, they did not want to give it another person’s name. You don’t rename ships either, because it supposedly brings bad luck! Restaurant Ca Na Xica The breakfast buffet is served with plenty of panache in a slightly larger cuboid at the other end of the property. The menu selection is well-rounded: besides the customary jamon iberico and manchego cheese, we were smitten by the bread. It managed to surprise even us spoiled Swiss bread lovers! Super crusty, still slightly warm and fragrant, it comes in many varieties, even ready-made as a little ham bocadillo. Delicious! Breakfasting in beauty The kitchen crew passed our favorite “Eggs Benedict test” with flying colors: This is how the dish should look! And taste! Eggs Benedict with jamon iberico In the evenings, you can order local delicacies from a small menu. The setting is romantic, the staff highly attentive, and the dishes very much to be savored! And every evening, for that extra little touch, there is always a different bedtime treat beside your pillow. It can’t get more relaxed than this! The engaged team around Alex Piella and Carla Espinosa is passionate about one goal only: To make a vacation at Ca Na Xica an unforgettable experience by showing guests Ibiza’s authentic, unspoiled soul… … to which we can only say: well done! (And this despite Alex and Carla having no touristic training and having had to learn all the relevant disciplines on their own on the job!) ## Killcare Beach House by Luxe Houses Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/killcare-beach-house-luxe-houses Justine Tyerman spends a long weekend at a stunning beachfront home on the Bouddi Peninsula New South Wales Central Coast, highly recommended by Luxe Houses, an ultra-luxury villa rental agency based in Sydney. I tiptoe downstairs at first light to sit by the window in my favourite spot on a chaise longue, one of two, beside a powerful telescope so I can study the ecstasy on the faces of the early-bird surfers as they catch a perfect winter wave. I snuggle up under the softest faux fur blanket made by Cruz. The Luxe Houses beachfront villa at Killcare, 90 minutes’ north of Sydney, is warm but I love the cosiness of the blanket anyway. The elevation of the house gives the effect of watching scenes from a play on a broad stage below. I’m witnessing the theatre of the beach unfold as if from a private opera box above the beach. The all-glass frontage of Killcare Beach House with floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors offers no impediment to the seascape panorama. Killcare Beach HousePicture by Luxe Houses The main entrance at Killcare Beach House (and our JUCY rental car) The blue grey sea and the silver grey sky, merge into one in the gloom of an August dawn. There’s a dark smudge on the horizon suggesting a ship. Every morning at precisely 6.45am an elderly man appears on the beach with a small fluffy white dog. He strips off to his togs, dives into the surf and does some serious swimming followed by a brisk walk along the beach and 15 minutes of vigorous ball-throwing with his waggly-tailed canine friend. An elderly man and his dog on the beach in front of the house The silvery sky takes on a ripe apricot glow as the sun begins to climb back to its southern realm. Sunbeams strike the dark rocks of the headlands, painting them gold. Rows of waves rise up like moving folds in rumpled taffeta, then peak and smash on the shore in tongues of white froth. The foam is iridescent in the sun. Fishing boats chug over the humps and hollows of the heavy swell, heading for a reef where waves are breaking far offshore in a thin white line. Yachts with tall white sails lean this way and that, and whale watch boats cluster around a dark shape suggesting they have struck treasure. Humpbacks migrate south along this coast from October to November and north from June to August. I conclude that Killcare Beach House is a perfect spot to watch for whales given that there are two high-powered telescopes in the place, both in prime beach-facing locations. My vantage point on the middle level of the three-storey home places me almost level with the treetops. The stately Norfolk pine out front is a magnet for birds, a favourite perch for the districts’ feathered ones. A raucous flock of parakeets are regular visitors, squawking to each other about life. They settle at the very top of the tree, weighing down the slender branches in a most precarious manner. I also spot a kookaburra which is exciting for a Kiwi, and some small parrot-like birds with brilliant plumage. Parakeets visiting us A kookaburra on one of our walks I like to write about my experiences while I’m on location but so often here, a delicious doziness overtakes me and defeats my attempts. Relaxation sets in whenever I sit on the chaise longue and sleep comes in gentle waves, leaving my sentences unfinished on an open iPad, fingers lying languidly on the keys. In the afternoons, we all succumb to the soothing, lulling effect of the waves, drifting in and out of sleep. My favourite writing (and dozing) spot In these last few days, I’ve fallen in love with this beautiful house and the tranquil beach enclosed in rocky headlands. It’s 1.6km long, the perfect walking distance at dawn before brekkie and at sunset before drinks. What is it about a beach that compels me to walk from one end to the other, touching the farthest boulder at each extreme? Named Putty Beach because it’s the colour of fresh putty, somewhere near our house, it turns into Killcare, a place to kill your cares. Deserted golden sand beach at Killcare The Bouddi Peninsula is home to a string of pristine beaches, each one a jewel encased in rugged headlands where the waves at full tide thump the rocks, leaping metres into the air in walls of white foam. The coastal walkway on the Bouddi Peninsula Waves crashing on the rocky headlands at the end of Putty Beach Over the hill at Hardy’s Bay tidal inlet, it’s more heavily populated – there are restaurants, cafes, a general store, wine shop, art galleries and boat charters but we prefer quiet, secluded Killcare. A busy Saturday sees all of 25 people on the beach, usually outnumbered by their assorted pooches. Most gather at the nearby surf club kiosk for lunch. We sat at a table on the grass and had the best fish and chips we’ve ever tasted while watching children play in a warm, sheltered rock pool in mid-winter. Justine and daughter Sophie at the Killcare Beach Kiosk The sheltered rock pool For those looking for sophisticated dining, Killcare boasts the award-winning Manfredi at Bells. Chef Stefano Manfredi is rated so highly, well-to-do Sydney-siders often catch a seaplane there just for lunch. One day, we decided we really should explore the wider region and went driving up the coast to better-known centres such as Avoca Beach, Terrigal and Copacabana. We came back fast, having reached the conclusion that Killcare is far superior in every respect. There were sighs of relief as we arrived home. Why try to improve on the perfect? We have all the creature comforts we need at our Killcare home thanks to a mind-boggling array of services provided by our concierge. Our JUCY Travella on a coastal backroad Should we desire, we can have gourmet food delivered to our door, a chef come to cook lunch, dinner or canapes for a cocktail party, enjoy an in-house massage and beauty treatment, have a personal trainer call by to conduct a fitness session or take surfing or stand-up paddle-boarding lessons. There’s an abundance of everything at this house. Every room, including all the bedrooms and the kids’ bunkroom and rumpus room have magnificent ocean views, opening onto balconies. Lovely linens, cottons, and fine wool textiles. Picture by Luxe Houses The children’s bunk room. Picture by Luxe Houses There’s ample space for all age-groups. No one is disadvantaged, certainly not the children. Next door to the bunkroom, the younger ones have their own sunny, rumpus room with chunky couches, trundler beds, a play station, television and drawers stacked with books and games. The adults have the choice of the main lounge on the middle level or a quiet retreat on the top floor with arguably the best view of all from a balcony that extends the full length of the house. The lounge opens up to a wrap-around balcony. Picture by Luxe Houses The beds in all five bedrooms are festooned with pillows, seven apiece, and the wardrobes are stacked high with extra everything – Italian-made knit blankets, quilts, throw rugs and more pillows. The linens, cotton and fine wools are sensuous to the touch and echo the colours of the Australian landscape. Master bathroom Lovely Appelles spa products in all five bathrooms In addition to the five bathrooms, there are two outside showers for de-sanding prior to entering the house. The would-be chefs in our family were deliriously happy with the acres of marble bench and island space where they had their own preparation space and two large butlers’ sinks. There are table settings for 24, countless platters, and cooking appliances on hand in open racks, shelves and drawers. A row of stools at the island bench is the ideal spot for breakfast, snacks and kids’ meals. Husband Chris in action in the fabulous kitchen with daughter Sophie and friend Kitchen, dining and patio at Killcare. Picture by Luxe Houses If there was an option to open up a wall, the architect took it, incorporating huge sliding doors, louvres or shutters into the design to enhance airflow and light. In warm weather, solid walls are banished – the whole house can be thrown open. The poolside patio with its outside kitchen-BBQ station, eight-seater table and overhead heaters, is a masterstroke. The space is enclosed by louvres, shutters and sliding glass doors which can be opened, closed or angled to suit all manner of wind and weather conditions… including the roof. Killcare Beach House from the outside patio dining area. Picture by Luxe Houses Looking from the patio into the kitchen, dining and lounge beyond. Picture by Luxe Houses Luxe Houses must have bought out the whole range of Appelles’ spa products not to mention the exquisite bespoke Cocolux candle scents, selected by Cocolux for Luxe Houses – ‘Sweet Pomegranate and Acai’ is the fragrance for Killcare. It’s a big-hearted house which over-delivers in every respect. Cocolux candles – one of many lovely Luxe touches. Picture by Luxe Houses At the end of each day, I return to my ‘opera box’ to watch the final scene of the play – the last of the dog walkers, surfers, soft-sand joggers and couples hand-in-hand leaving the beach as the curtain of darkness descends. Killcare FACTBOX Justine Tyerman was a guest of Luxe Houses at NSW Central Coast property Killcare Beach House. All reservations with Luxe Houses include access to concierge services who can arrange (at additional cost) private charter jets, helicopter transfers, yachts, launches, jet-boats, private chefs, waiter staff for guest occasions, butlers, drivers, bespoke spa treatments, experienced nannies, guides, personal trainers and anything else to help make your stay flawless Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct to Sydney from Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown. JUCY Rentals assisted with transport ## Sumptuous Sydney waterfront home The Wharf Birchgrove Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/luxe-house-wharf-birchgrove-sydney Justine Tyerman finds Luxe Houses’ The Wharf Birchgrove sumptuous and luxurious… but above all welcoming, warm and inviting. It’s a cherished home with a myriad of personal touches… not a hotel suite. I can see I’m in for some tough decisions when I arrive at The Wharf Birchgrove so I mentally steel myself for the days ahead. Secluded, private and secure, the sumptuous Sydney waterfront home is marketed by Sydney-based ultra-luxury villa rental agency Luxe Houses whose bespoke VIP concierge services rival the most star-studded of hotels. What is included in the price is astounding. Yacht director and skipper Luke Magennis’ has invited us to cruise the harbour on the sleek and powerful 50ft MV Birchgrove moored a few steps from the door; celebrity chef Clancy Atkinson wants to rustle up a gourmet dinner party; and I’m keen to explore the cafés, restaurants boutiques, parks and walkways in the historic suburbs of Birchgrove and neighbouring Balmain. I also want to lounge languidly in the glass-enclosed, heated infinity pool outside on the patio, watching the ever-changing harbour stage before me, cocktail in hand; and every day, I must remember to have a chat to the in-house butler about what time would suit for the turn-down service and other vital housekeeping matters. Justine in the swing on the patio The MV Birchgrove moored at the wharf below the house It’s a tall order… but I manage to do justice to the lot. The Wharf Birchgrove I’m awake early on our first morning in Sydney. Sunbeams dance across the floor and flit up the walls, striking the bevelled-edges of a huge mirror, scattering a kaleidoscope of miniature rainbows around the living room of the habour-edge Wharf Birchgrove in Sydney. My eyes absorb the layers of texture, subtle colours, artworks, family treasures and custom-made furniture in this exquisite private home. I’m intrigued by the deliberate choice to divide the large windowpanes into black-edged squares and rectangles, each one framing a piece of the landscape, like multiple artworks. One frame captures the arch of Sydney’s iconic harbour bridge, another the silhouette of the city’s horizon and yet another the tall masts of moored yachts tilting left and right in the breeze like giant metronomes. The harbour bridge at sunrise The glossy white kitchen is a gorgeous show-piece, startling against the dark matte charcoal walls and grey slate tile floor. The mirror surface of the splashback brings images of the ferries and harbour life right into the house. The parquet kitchen table seats eight while a cosy, conversational nook is created by couches and chairs in front of a wall-mounted fire with a flat-screen television above. The mood is relaxed in this part of the house, an area the owner extensively redesigned, joining two parts of the original dwelling together to create space for an informal dining area where there was once a courtyard. I walk through glass doors to the formal lounge, just as the rays of sun begin to flood the room from the 7m-high atrium which extends the full height of the two-storey house. Glass walls enclose an internal courtyard, an oasis of green where tropical palms thrive in their sheltered microcosm. The formal lounge at The Wharf Birchgrove©The Luxe Houses The room is effortlessly elegant with exceptional attention to nuances of texture, hue and form thanks to skilful work by interior designer Simone Luppino. Urns, lamps, books and artefacts collected from the owner’s travels, adorn chests, tables and shelves. A plush floor rug in purple, black and cream geometrics softens the grey slate tiled floor. Plump armchairs and couches surround a low table and a magnificent floor-standing gilt-framed mirror adds to the feeling of space and light. A large flat screen TV is recessed into a wall cabinet. Up a step from the lounge, is the stylish formal dining room with a heavy wooden table flanked by a mirrored wall, framed mosaic, well-stocked wine rack, lush plants and a pair of tall black candelabra. Above the table hangs a huge wooden chandelier. Tasmanian dark oak flooring imbues the space with a warm glow. The dining room© The Luxe Houses Recessed behind the dining room, hides a fully-equipped state-of-the-art catering kitchen with metres of bench space and facilities that would be the envy of any top chef. A large laundry with even more preparation and storage space is adjacent to the kitchen. Just perfect for large-scale entertaining. A lavishly-appointed ground floor guest bedroom and ensuite opens onto the courtyard and beyond that to the living area and a harbour and bridge view. The regal queen bed has a padded satin headboard and matching chest at the foot of the bed, handsome brass reading lamps, and a magnificent crystal chandelier above. A grand gang-plank style stairway with heavy wooden steps suspended between two sturdy black iron beams with chrome handrails and wire sides links the two storeys. The staircase anchors the nautical theme of the house which is repeated elsewhere in exquisite pieces of coral, shells, an oversized sailor’s knot door-stop, porthole mirrors and shipping trunk-style chests. An imposing artwork ‘Flaming June’ – a copy of an 1895 oil painting of a sleeping woman in a voluminous orange gown by Sir Frederic Leighton – hangs at the foot of the steps. Upstairs, the dark oak floor in the main entrance contrasts with the sheen of the white gloss cabinetry. A pretty powder-blue guest bedroom with a white-tiled ensuite bathroom, opens onto a sheltered, sunny balcony with a view of the bridge above the tops of palm trees growing in the courtyard below. An eye-catching central light fitting, a cluster of intersecting circles like Saturn’s rings, encloses six candlelights. The master bedroom©The Luxe Houses I slept upstairs in the supremely comfortable custom-made king-sized bed in the master bedroom that night with the curtains wide open, watching the winking red lights on the iconic harbour bridge and the reflections of the city’s nightlights, distorted by the wind and the wash of wakes. The bed linen was such high quality, I thought it was doubled. The palatial ensuite bathroom has a step-up bath, glass-walled shower and a dressing room the size of a small boutique. I loved the abundance of Appelles spa products in every bathroom and the exquisite bespoke Cocolux candle scents, selected by Cocolux for Luxe Houses. The fragrance for The Wharf Birchgrove is ‘Sweet Pomegranate and Acai’, sweet and fruity with a hint of spice, just some of Luxe Houses’ special touches. Cocolux candle scents© The Luxe Houses It’s a high-tech house operated by touch screen pads for lighting, blinds, television and music. There are five television sets, one in each bedroom and the formal and informal lounges. The place has an excellent integrated sound system, inside and out. A private internal lift runs from the secure carpark at road level stopping on both floors. The place is ultra-luxurious and sumptuous and yet warm, welcoming, cosy, tranquil, light-filled and above all inviting. It’s a cherished home with a myriad of personal touches… not a hotel suite. FACTBOX The Wharf Birchgrove, built in 2009, is located on the site of a former shipyard owned by the Stannard Brothers boat building company, and sits directly above Sydney’s largest private wharf. Constructed in 1946, the 70m jetty was once a working wharf handling all manner of goods, and home to boat sheds and garages for ship repairs. Justine Tyerman was a guest of Luxe Houses: www.luxehouses.com, at The Wharf Birchgrove Justine flew Air New Zealand direct to Sydney from Auckland JUCY Rentals assisted with transport All reservations with Luxe Houses include airport transfers, personal greeting and Dom Perignon Champagne on arrival, housekeeping, Appelles bath and spa products, bespoke Cocolux candle scents and access to the Luxe concierge The Wharf Birchgrove includes a daily butler service for up to 6 hours, a housekeeping and turn-down service, private chef, food shopping and preparation. A two-hour sunset cruise on board Birchgrove MV with a bottle of Moet is inclusive when a guest at this property In addition Luxe Houses concierge services can arrange private charter jets, helicopter transfers, yachts, launches, jet-boats, private chefs, waiter staff for guest occasions, butlers, drivers, bespoke spa treatments, experienced nannies, guides, personal trainers and anything else to help make your stay flawless ## Cruising Sydney Harbour aboard the MV Birchgrove Yacht Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/mv-birchgrove-yacht-sydney The Wharf Birchgrove, built in 2009, is located on the site of a former shipyard owned by the Stannard Brothers boat building company, and sits directly above Sydney’s largest private wharf. Constructed in 1946, the 70m jetty was once a working wharf handling all manner of goods, and home to boat sheds and garages for ship repairs. A number of antique fixtures such as a derrick crane, hand winch and fire-fighting equipment have been salvaged and retained, acting as a fascinating reminder of the wharf’s colourful past life. Yacht director and captain Luke Magennis’ pride and joy, the 50ft MV Birchgrove is moored mid-way along the jetty opposite another sea-going beauty. The Norwegian-built Windy Triton Sports Cruiser holds the distinction of being the first luxury charter yacht in Australia with IPS drives (Inboard Propulsion System) in Australia. Luke suggests a sunset cruise on the harbour… Moet included. Who could refuse? Justine with Captain Luke on the MV Birchgrove The MV Birchgrove pulls away from the wharf The blustery conditions put the grunty twin Volvos to the test, skimming the choppy winter waves with ease. In fact the weather gave Luke the opportunity to display his superb captaincy skills, manoeuvring the boat effortlessly into the jetty with winds of up to 25 knots. He took us on a fabulous guided tour of Goat Island, Darling Harbour and Cockle Bay, under the harbour bridge and past the opera house. The iconic shells of the roof were glowing pink and gold in the fading light. Sydney Opera House from the MV Birchgrove Sydney Harbour Bridge from the MV Birchgrove The Windy Triton is pure luxury. With a spacious, well-appointed galley and lounge, two televisions with Foxtel, WIFI and Bose, the three-cabin, two-bathroom boat can sleep six and has ample entertaining space for 12. The MV Birchgrove moored at the wharf below the house The wharf and the MV Birchgrove (right) Luke is a versatile fellow. He used to work as a skipper for one of Australia’s wealthiest families, travelling with them all around the world, and has also had considerable event management experience. He’s just as at ease behind the wheel of a super yacht as he is overseeing cocktails and canapés for 50 on the patio by the pool . . . but I suspect he prefers the former. He’s helped entertain many celebrities, VIPs and the occasional Middle Eastern prince on the boat, by the pool or in the formal dining room at The Wharf Birchgrove. Next time we’re in Sydney, Luke has promised to take us whale watching – he has an excellent strike rate judging from his photos of humpbacks breaching the waters off the coast. ## The Birchgrove-Balmain neighbourhood Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/birchgrove-balmain-sydney Just 3.7km from the CBD, Birchgrove-Balmain is a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Before exploring the neighbourhood, we stopped for great coffee at the historic Gladstone Store. It’s a corner shop which dates back to 1886, one of a row of eight quaint terrace houses with their characteristic wrought iron balustrades, dating back to an era when the suburb was home to heavy industry and dockyard workers. Now the exclusive domain of the ultra-rich – celebrities, high-end executives, corporates and bankers – real estate in Birchgrove is among the most expensive in Australia, on par with the eastern suburbs. Neighbours include Tom Cruise’s co-star in the 2008 movie Cocktail, Australian actor Bryan Brown. The area resonates with colourful history and holds some quirky records such as the largest number of restored pubs in Australia including the Unity Hall Hotel, 1888, where the Labour government was formed in 1919, and Birchgrove Oval where the first professional NRL game was played in 1908. Birchgrove-Balmain area Wharf Road is book-ended by two lovely waterfront parks – the Oval on one side and Ballast Point Park on the other. In the late 1700s, the latter was the source of ballast for ships returning unladen to Europe and for much of the 20th century, giant tanks stored crude oil there for Texaco, later Caltex. The prime waterfront point is now a public park with walkways, artworks, shade structures, wind turbines and Australian native gardens. Steel stairways, recycled building rubble walls and panels from the curved sheet steel of the largest fuel tank are reminders of its earlier life as an industrial site. The historic Gladstone Store in Birchgrove The quaint terrace houses beside the historic Gladstone Store in Birchgrove The quaint terrace houses beside the historic Gladstone Store in Birchgrove Now the exclusive domain of the ultra-rich – celebrities, high-end executives, corporates and bankers – real estate in Birchgrove is among the most expensive in Australia, on par with the eastern suburbs. Neighbours include Tom Cruise’s co-star in the 2008 movie Cocktail, Australian actor Bryan Brown. The area resonates with colourful history and holds some quirky records such as the largest number of restored pubs in Australia including the Unity Hall Hotel, 1888, where the Labour government was formed in 1919, and Birchgrove Oval where the first professional NRL game was played in 1908. Waterfront Parks Wharf Road is book-ended by two lovely waterfront parks – the Oval on one side and Ballast Point Park on the other. In the late 1700s, the latter was the source of ballast for ships returning unladen to Europe and for much of the 20th century, giant tanks stored crude oil there for Texaco, later Caltex. The prime waterfront point is now a public park with walkways, artworks, shade structures, wind turbines and Australian native gardens. Steel stairways, recycled building rubble walls and panels from the curved sheet steel of the largest fuel tank are reminders of its earlier life as an industrial site. Ballast Point Park features reminders of its earlier life as an oil storage site The Australians know how to preserve and showcase their history . . . turning an unsightly industrial oil storage site into a stunning sculptural art installation. The boutique, café and restaurant culture is thriving in Balmain-Birchgrove. There’s no need to venture to the city to find outstanding eateries. We dined at a superb Asian restaurant called Blue Ginger and another night we had a delicious meal at the Italian Mantecato, hidden among houses on a suburban back street. In Darling Street, Balmain, we found the ultra-chic boutique Zambelli men’s and women’s wear store. It’s superb – well worth a visit. The range of ties was so irresistible, my husband bought a couple . . . and he’s no shopper. In Darling Street, Balmain, we found the ultra-chic boutique Zambelli. It’s superb – well worth a visit. The range of ties was so irresistible, my husband bought a couple . . . and he’s no shopper. ## Celebrity Chef Clancy Atkinson revisited Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/clancy-atkinson-celebrity-chef We had met the delightful chef Clancy Atkinson a few years ago at Luxe Houses’ La Corniche so were excited to see him again and savour what he had in store for us this time. The Australian celebrity chef worked for Gucci and other luxury brands for six and a half years in the world’s most exotic locations with the world’s most beautiful people including Elle MacPherson. Now the official chef for Luxe Houses, Clancy’s work involves preparing dinners and cocktail parties for celebrity, private and business events. Since we last saw him, career highlights have included cooking lunch for renowned Fat Duck chef Heston Blumenthal who was in Sydney hosting an intimate media lunch for Breville. Heston’s team asked me to design and produce a fun, relaxed menu showcasing local seasonal produce. Cooking for one of the world’s greatest chefs was a surreal experience. For the last 12 months, Clancy has been travelling extensively with a VIP Luxe Houses’ client on his private jet. “He’s a billionaire PR mogul from Riga in Latvia. I have cooked for him all over the world in some incredible locations: Jackson Hole, St. Bart’s, Cape Town, Kruger National Park in Africa, Dominica Republic, Capri, Riga and Istanbul.” Clancy always has a story to tell. “We were in Jackson Hole, Wyoming for New Year’s Eve. It was mid-winter and we were there for the world-class ski slopes. My client wanted white truffles for a New Year’s Eve gala dinner, a virtually impossible request as it was -25C and the day before NYE. Desperate, I called a friend of mine in New York who had truffles at his restaurant. He arranged for four white truffles to be FedEx-ed to Jackson Hole which was great. The only problem was when they arrived, they were frozen solid – $USD1000 for frozen truffles! All was not lost though, they still tasted fantastic shaved over the top of handmade gnocchi.” Clancy regularly contributes to charity donating a dinner to the Sydney Children’s Hospital Gold Lunch. He raised over $4000 for the hospital to buy a Cone Beam CT scanner for children in need of facial and dental reconstruction. Clancy is a real gem, and does not fit the modern image of a celebrity chef — he’s sweet-natured, smiley, affable, unpretentious, amusing and not at all temperamental. Check out his website clancyatkinson.com here! Dinner exceeded all expectations! Canapés: King Prawn, Celeriac Remoulade, Crisp Brioche; Buffalo Mozzarella, Peas, Pecorino, Mint, Salted Crostini Entrée: Burrata with Panzanella Salad Main Course: Pan Roasted Petuna Ocean Trout, Crisp Skin, Cauliflower Purée and Sauce Vierge Dessert: Rosewater & Pomegranate Eton Mess with Yoghurt Mousse and Candy Almonds FACTBOX Justine Tyerman was a guest of Luxe Houses: www.luxehouses.com, at The Wharf Birchgrove Justine flew Air New Zealand direct to Sydney from Auckland JUCY Rentals assisted with transport All reservations with Luxe Houses include airport transfers, personal greeting and Dom Perignon Champagne on arrival, housekeeping, Appelles bath and spa products, bespoke Cocolux candle scents and access to the Luxe concierge The Wharf Birchgrove includes a daily butler service for up to 6 hours, a housekeeping and turn-down service, private chef, food shopping and preparation. A two-hour sunset cruise on board Birchgrove MV with a bottle of Moet is inclusive when a guest at this property In addition Luxe Houses concierge services can arrange private charter jets, helicopter transfers, yachts, launches, jet-boats, private chefs, waiter staff for guest occasions, butlers, drivers, bespoke spa treatments, experienced nannies, guides, personal trainers and anything else to help make your stay flawless ## Far-out flying safari from Victoria Falls to the Okavango Delta leopards Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/flying-safari-okavango-delta The way to go for an unforgettable flying safari in Zimbabwe and Botswana is by small plane from mighty Victoria Falls to the Okavango Delta and its wildlife riches… Botswana ranks right up there as a ne plus ultra safari destination. Along with having the richest variety of wildlife and luxuriant vegetation you could ask for, it has a relative scarcity of tourists. That is because so few can be admitted at a time to its game reserves and small lodges or camps. Once you know this, the price tags that they bandy about here start making sense — no, you’re not using the wrong exchange rate. They really mean it’s that much and per person to boot! So, if you’re not used to paying astronomical prices, make a wide detour around those exclusive Botswana camps. And, in the interest of your inner vacation peace, at this point you might actually want to stop reading this article! As for me, I thought it behooved me to go all out in colossal fashion on the occasion of my 50th birthday. In spades! And so it came down to our letting Monika and Mirjam, safari specialists with The Safari Source, customize a birthday itinerary for us. Here it is, with adventure following adventure in rapid succession: Highlight right out of the blocks: Victoria Falls The adventure-inclined traveler reaches the town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe by plane from Johannesburg. It’s a minimal town with a maximal waterfall. Actually, the term “waterfall” does the natural phenomenon an injustice. That’s because the masses of water that fall here during the high season with a deafening roar and pour bucket loads of spray on visitors makes a lasting impression. In any event, despite a sun that just wouldn’t quit under the cloudless sky, it left us sopping wet… Instead of the hiking boots we wore, we recommend waterproof sandals for visiting the Falls! Our shoes took the entire sunny afternoon noon to dry at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge… Highlight: wildlife riches of Chobe National Park By SUV, you travel from Victoria Falls to the Botswana border. Here you pass through immigration control and cross the border on foot, then a safari jeep transports you to a lodge by the famous Chobe National Park. The reason why the park is justly famous dawns on the well-disposed big game hunter as soon he crosses into it. No need to look for the wildlife here; you practically trip over it! You bed down here in style in the Ngoma Safari Lodge. Just as along the Chobe River, the animal viewing is spectacular here. Don’t pass up an early morning “walking safari” with carbine on the shoulder. A really special adrenaline rush… Highlight: Flight safari into the Okavango Delta A few days later, you take off in a Cessna from the small Kasane Airport. Our bush pilot Michaela is at the controls and sets a course for the tent camps of the Okavango Delta! This is literally high adventure! To keep the drama of the journey building, we recommend the Tubu Tree Camp from Wilderness Safaris’ “Classic Camp” category as the next stop. Your lodgings in a romantic “tent for two” will be beguilingly airy. Freshening up under the outside shower surrounded by the bush is exquisite! The wildlife density here in the Okavango Delta is not as high as by the Chobe River, and so the well-disposed safarist has to work harder for sightings. But then it is all the more satisfying when you actually succeed in “bagging” a perfectly camouflaged leopardess and her cub. After what seemed like searching for a needle in a haystack! To be fair, let’s give credit where due: to our guide Kambango. It was only thanks to his immense tracking skills that we did not spend our days driving blindly past the leopardess and assorted other wildlife. Only the elephants and giraffes we had no trouble spotting without help…and the omnipresent impalas, to be sure. Also not to be missed in the Okavango Delta is a ride in a mokoro dugout. In the old days, these shallow-draft canoes really were hewn out of logs, but today they are plastic replicas. Katja and Walter in a mokoro with guide poling them through the Okavango Delta Even when hungry hyenas chew on our Cessna parked on the Tubu Tree airstrip and make it unairworthy for the next leg, it does not damp down the adventure. On the contrary… Aside from this typical bush mishap, our bush pilot Michaela has everything under control the next day as usual and soon we are airborne again. Highlight: The Kings Pool premium camp Barring a possible flight delay due to hyena attack, the flying safari brings the so-inclined frequent flyer to the journey’s climax: to a place where kings are wont to go swimming, to wit, Kings Pool. So long as there are no giant crocodiles wallowing in it… View of the Kings Pool at dusk From the moment you are welcomed in the open-air lounge of this premium camp by Wilderness Safaris, it’s clear you can set yourself up in elegance even in the bush. Where Tubu Tree Camp goes more for the picturesque colonial style, in Kings Pool you have landed in a designer camp: light hues, and clean lines combine with green color accents into a harmonious whole. Deck with a view Taking possession of the room, or rather make that “of the tent,” is, if anything, even more breathtaking: the “tent for two” with its gigantic dimensions is easily without equal when it comes to the interior furnishings… “Tent for two” Botswana style … or so we naively thought… Highlight of highlights: Little Mombo Camp However, nothing says that the flying safari has to end with Kings Pool. For our final destination, our two ladies at Safari Source had hit on a way to up the ante once more — with Little Mombo Camp… “Little” here refers to the camp’s size: With just five tents, it is inevitable that the guests will have every wish read in their eyes before they can even verbalize them! If Kings Pool takes your breath away, and you’ve recovered from that, then things get a tad more critical at Little Mombo: the lounge may be somewhat smaller, but the tents here will see your Kings Pool and raise it a bundle … or what else to make of the dressing table with its make-up and shaving mirrors completely open to a view of the Okavango? Dressing table with a view! Here, too, they offer spectacular safaris with leopard sightings. Man, oh man, it’s too much for my strung-out nerves! Here are our individual reviews of the lodges and camps highlighted in this post: Victoria Falls Safari Lodge Ngoma Safari Lodge Tubu Tree Camp Kings Pool Little Mombo Camp Booking pointers We took our 12-day trip in early June at the start of high season: this makes it shortly after the end of the rainy season, i.e., when the Victoria Falls are still running near full blast and the bush abounds in greenery. True, the better for the animals to hide in, but with so much wildlife, there’s always plenty to see anyway. Night time temperatures in winter hovers around 5 degrees Celsius; by noon, it tends to warm up to about 25 degrees Celsius. Dressing like an onion in layers therefore is a principle worth adhering to, including down jackets on the outside; with the wind chill, it gets even colder in the open safari jeeps. That said, they do put a hot water bottle on the seat for you in the mornings as well as one in your bed at night in the tent. The Safari Source is a local safari operator based in Zimbabwe that is run by two women, one from Switzerland, the other from Austria. They give very competent advice and the trip documentation is highly detailed. In it, they stress in several places not to pack more than 20 kg in small bags and you need to observe this rule religiously: otherwise, your gear won’t fit into the little Cessnas … But then you really don’t need a lot of clothes on a flying safari, since you can also have them laundered in the camps. A pair of hiking boots can handle just about anything — bar at Victoria Falls, where rubber sandals are definitely the thing … A pre-trip visit to a doctor specializing in tropical medicine also recommends itself. The Okavango Delta is known as a malarial region, especially during the rainy season. But we are happy to report having seen only three mosquitoes in June. Two of them got away… ## Little Mombo Camp – XXL tents for two Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/little-mombo-camp-xxl-tents-for-two Mombo Camp is the flagship camp of the renowned safari operator Wilderness Safaris. The pinnacle, in other words, of safaris and places to camp out in when in Botswana. It seemed to me like just the thing for my 50th… Dieser Review ist zuerst auf Deutsch erschienen bei reisememo.ch A birthday outing for my Big Five-O. Monika and Mirjam, safari specialists with The Safari Source came up with Little Mombo Camp as the grand finale for our safari adventure. True to its name, it’s a small camp with all of five “2-person tents.” Tent at Little Mombo Naturally, anyone celebrating a 50th birthday would be a little hopped up about an alleged climax and finish for a trip… On the other hand, I arrived feeling a bit blasé, sure that there was no way that the camps we had already stayed in could be topped. It may also have had something to do with the fact that as we flew in this time, our plane had not been chewed on by hungry hyenas again… Piece o’ cake… Lunch in the Bush – Little Mombo Camp Style Upon arrival, we are welcomed by camp manager Will, a South African. Since it was around noon, the young man lost no time in leading us straight to the lunch buffet picturesquely laid out in the open air lounge. Well, all right, this is a promising start… Lunch with a view at the Little Mombo Camp Light fare: Salmon skewer with avocado and lemon After this first pick-me-up, the much anticipated taking possession of our room is next. Or, rather, the move into the 2-person tent, of course, since there are no rooms per se here… Camping out in a tent for two By way of the raised wooden walkway that is typical in the Okavango Delta, Will escorts us to our tent. Already at a distance, you can sense that a pup tent this is not. And, then, stepping into it, it’s enough to take even a hard-bitten safari veteran’s breath away… … besides the obligatory four-poster bed with mosquito net (there were practically none, this being June and still early in the season), you find yourself taking in an awe-inspiring ensemble of lounge, cocktail bar, and a bathroom that is really something to write home about: with twin showers (!) and a make-up table with a view of the Moremi Game Reserve, it’s like nothing we’ve ever experienced! You can enjoy the same view, naturally, from the “loo with a view” and from the small, private gazebo. Or from the outdoor shower. It figures. “Two-person tent” with generously proportioned bedroom… … and the almost larger bathroom … … with view! And a twin shower. The day dawns at Little Mombo; it’s 6 a.m. and 6 degrees Centigrade. Sometimes, the safari already starts right at the tent: What it’s like to go on safari to stalk leopards we caught here in another video. A slightly bigger Mombo Camp Should the walls start closing in despite the wide-open layout of Little Mombo, take the wooden walkway a short way in the other direction and you’ll find yourself in the big Mombo Camp, legendary flagship camp of safari operator Wilderness Safaris. Ethno-look lounge in Mombo Camp Sundeck with pool And since you can never have enough variety, meals here are not invariably eaten in camp… Picnicking in style Back in Little Mombo Camp, the day goes pretty much on the same schedule as most safari camps: Wake up is at 6 a.m., breakfast is served at 6:30, then it’s shoulder your camera backpack and off we go on the hunt! We come back in from the wild side shortly before noon. After lunch, a brief siesta is granted, and then it’s back out on safari at 3:30 p.m., with time out before dark for a sundowner somewhere in the bush, and later a relaxed dinner for the guests by candlelight back at the camp closes out the camp day. I suppose you could say you’re always eating here, unless you happen to be out lying in ambush :-) Snacks and fruits On the second day, our guide Sevara, instead of driving us back to camp at lunchtime, takes us to a tree-shaded spot where they have already set up a lunch amid the greenery. Call it a picnic — and I mean a real one! Picnic in style, I like! Walter and Katja during picnic It doesn’t get any better than this! Sincere thanks… …to camp manager Will! Nothing could be finer than the way he attentively looks after his guests’ wellbeing while casually regaling them with his hair raising bush adventures! A big thanks also to all Little Mombo Camp staffers; they spoiled us around the clock. And, of course, many thanks go to our guide Sevara for the unforgettable safari outings! Sunset in the Moremi Game Reserve ## Moremi Game Reserve – on leopard safari in the Okavango Delta Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/moremi-game-reserve-leopard-safari-okavango-delta We were particularly keen on experiencing the Moremi Game Reserve: contrary to a Chobe River safari, here you have to work hard for sightings of the animals camouflaged in their natural surroundings. Unless you’re talking about rhinos or elephants, that is… Moremi is located in the eastern Okavango Delta. It has just about everything that makes for an unforgettable safari. For many people, it ranks at the absolute top among Africa’s wildlife regions. In this reserve, too, dead trees are part of the picturesque background formed by a varied landscape. And then, to top it all, the setting sun paints the whole scene in a rich variety of colors… The density of lions and leopards here is astonishing, given especially the latter’s reputation for elusiveness. They hunt the herds of buffaloes, giraffes, elephants, zebras and the ubiquitous impalas, the McDonalds of the bush, that roam everywhere here. The regal lion and his queen consort Leopard hanging around Cheek by jowl with leopards We are “camping out” here in the unbelievable Little Mombo Camp (click the link for our report on this Wilderness Safari premium camp). As we’ve learned by now, calling this “camping” is hugely stretching the meaning of the word. But then we so seldom indulge… Little Mombo Camp We spent two days out in the wilderness with our tall guide Sevara. As in other game reserves, here, too, the guides keep in touch by radio to help locate particular kinds of wildlife at a given moment. No sooner does Sevara learn that a leopard has been sighted in our vicinity, we take off as if bitten by a tarantula (no, they live in South American jungles only). This scrambling can even happen during a relaxing sundowner: the ice chest is snatched from the radiator rack and hastily stowed in the safari jeep while we clamber into our raised seats — camera in one hand, gin and tonic in the other. Then Sevara puts the pedal to the medal and roars off, raising a towering dust cloud in our wake. Hold on for dear life! … … now becomes the motto. In the event, we at most have saved a few drops of the gin and tonic by the time we come to a stop; the rest of it the ants and other crawlies are probably lapping up with delight. Fantastic! The hair-raising drive was worth it! There really is a leopardess romping around here with her youngster. The young one is still a little clumsy and looking a little uncoordinated as it pads around. Cheekily, he leaps up on a dead tree trunk using his mother’s shoulders as springboard before making his way higher up into the tree. As we know, kids just don’t know when to be scared. The leopard cub leaping up the tree via his mother’s shoulders The inexperienced little guy scrambles around way high above the ground on the dry brittle wood. Let’s hope that turns out all right! But I steadily aim my telephoto lens just in case…my companion Daniel from Hong Kong acts on the same instinct. This is not something to be missed! Safari paparazzi Daniel and Walter Almost as if by a (nature’s) miracle, nobody winds up getting hurt during the climb. But when hunger intrudes, playtime is over. Mama leopard lets her cub know with an unmistakable snarl that she doesn’t want any of his maladroit help while she goes hunting. It’s tough enough as it is. But it is actually even more complicated than it looks. This is because, once the leopardess has begun to stalk its target, the squirrels, birds, or baboons take note and sound the alarm in half the bush with their howling or whistling. That causes the leopardess to have to patiently pause in her ambush until the general excitement subsides again and she can get on with it…all this while we also wait just as patiently. With cameras at the ready. The leopardess waits until things calm down again We thought we would get to see it happening live when the leopardess reassumes the hunting stance on her lookout, her ears flattening against her head. But just when she gathers herself silently and lithely on a desiccated treelimb and is about to leap into the attack… … the rotted wood collapses with a loud crack under her and spooks friend and foe both… and gone is the prey. Empty claws again… still hungry, she moves off for the next try. Rhinos in the Moremi Game Reserve Near threatened white rhinos and endangered black rhinos were brought into the private Moremi Reserve from South Africa and successfully reintroduced into the wild here. Rhino poaching is a big problem in southern Africa: conservationists and environmental activists speak of a “war for the horn.” Powdered rhino horn traditionally has been considered a wonder drug and aphrodisiac in China and Vietnam. Hunting is prohibited across the board in Botswana. Poachers are tracked down by the military and subject to harsh punishment. Not even the omnipresent warthogs may be hunted. Which is why, in the towns, people lure them into their yards with alcohol, whereupon, slightly inebriated, they simply disappear — into the frying pan, as it were. Up to this point in our Botswana adventure, besides the “Ugly Five” (link to our report) we had already seen four of the “Big Five” African fauna also, and, of course, we hoped to see the fifth “big one.” For our guide Sevara, this was not much of a challenge. He knows where the grey giants congregate around the lead bull nicknamed the “Sergeant.” Sergeant was the first rhino reintroduced from South Africa. Rhinoceros “Sergeant” in the Moremi Game Preserve A big “thank you” to our guide Sevara of Little Mombo Camp for these impressive safari days! And warm regards also to camp manager Will and his team led by “KG”: the reception in the camp and refreshments after every safari outing were experiences in their own right ;-) ## Wildlife Paradise: on Safari in Botswana’s Linyanti Concession Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/linyanti-safari-botswana The Linyanti region lies north of the Okavango Delta. Its extensive rolling grasslands or savannas are what makes this another distinctive part of Botswana’s geography. Let’s get out of the plane and on the ground! Dieser Artikel ist zuerst auf Deutsch erschienen bei reisememo.ch. Aerial photo of the Linyanti region Rich in wildlife, the Linyanti concession is home to a variety of animals. Depending on the weather and temperatures, here you can expect to encounter warthogs, impalas, zebras, wildebeest and elephants, all competing for the rare grassy expanses. In turn, they make fine hunting grounds for predators, like lions and leopards. The Linyanti River is a special attraction for all kinds of birds. In summer its banks serve as a veritable incubator. As we’ve noted elsewhere already, we are not “birders”…but even we can’t just pass by this owl without returning the stare ;-) Photo safari: Stalking wildlife with Bobby and AB With our Kings Pool Camp (see our report here) guide Bobby and his apprentice AB (once again shorthand for a name that is a tongue twister for Europeans) we went on the hunt with our cameras. AB is unbelievable, possessed of eagle eyes that don’t miss a single animal! Not even the highly poisonous puff adder, extremely well-camouflaged with its predominantly brown markings. But just as quickly as AB spotted it, it disappeared (luckily!). There wasn’t even time to “shoot” it. Just for that, we photographed some other cuddly critters: Young leopard… …and his mama Buffalo! And, once more, here we have a fine warthog specimen representing the Club of the Ugly Five (find our report here). We were surprised to learn there was a counterpart of the famous “Big Five”… We continue to be overwhelmed by the wealth of wildlife on display: buffalos, leopards, and elephants are just some of the more visible Big Five creatures. As always, the elephants are a special treat as herds of them surge across the Linyanti River — it forms the border between Namibia and Botswana — not bothering with customs formalities at all. Elephant herd by the Linyanti between Namibia and Botswana Ah, and here also we find uncounted numbers of impalas. It took us just a few safari days to start taking them almost for granted, so prevalent are they here. For all that, we still admire them; they are lovely animals. The local people, however, have taken to calling them “McDonalds.” That’s because impalas on their furry butts sport a white “M” that, for all the world, looks like the logo of the ubiquitous American burger flipper. Grazing impalas When we spring a leak in the gas line after driving over a particularly resistant bush and have to stop in the middle of the savanna, it just feels like part of the adventure. Before AB can call for help over the radio, Bobby matter-of-factly had already fixed it. Self do self have…! Still, it takes the guys a bit longer when we get stuck in drift sand under the star-studded evening sky. With a lot of shoveling and Walter (totally at his ease in the jeep…) pointing out how he would dig us out of a snowdrift, we still make it back more or less punctually to the campfire for dinner… Linyanti – nature spectacle without end What we liked especially about the Linyanti region besides the varied wildlife was the contrast-rich landscape: open savanna that gives way to dense riparian forests, interspersed with mixed bush country, and the bone-dry Savuti Canal. I also especially like the impressive leadwood trees that grow up to 20 meters tall with their umbrella-like crowns. Even when they stand there dead and dry, they are still an object of fascination. Dead leadwood tree The Sundowner Any safari veteran will know that when you are about to return to camp from an afternoon stalk, shortly before the sun sets, you will be treated to the legendary “sundowner.” The pity of it is that, with all the picture taking, you hardly have time to sip your drink. That is how really marvelous is the show that nature puts on nightly without fail. Walter taking uncounted pictures of the setting sun Many thanks to… … Bobby, our intrepid guide, for all the new facets of Botswana that he showed us. And to AB, still in the Kings Pool training program, but we already know: you have the right stuff :-) Kings Pool guide Bobby sporting Wilderness Safaris’ claim“Our Journeys Change Lives” ## Kings Pool Camp, Linyanti – “camping out” in style Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/kings-pool-camp-wilderness-safaris Kings Pool Camp is one of the most luxurious safari camps in the Linyanti Concession. Their motto is “camping in style” and they mean it! Kings Pool, operated by Wilderness Safaris, borders on the western edge of Chobe National Park and sits right beside the Linyanti River and its splendid Kings Pool lagoon. The Linyanti Concession (see our report on a spectacular safari there) impressed us with its varied landscape: open savannas alternate with dense riparian forests, mixed bush and the bone-dry Savuti Canal combine for an engrossing background. Sunrise seen from near Kings Pool Camp After our adventurous Cessna ride over the Okavango Delta we are already eagerly awaited at Kings Pool. Apparently, they had been informed by radio of the reason for our lateness. The guest relations manager, who goes by Se, greeted us so warmly as if we had just missed calamity by a hair. But the delay was due to some hungry hyenas chewing on the tires and tail of our little Cessna. Relax; it goes with life in the bush. Right? Whatever. We quickly forget about it as we are received here, too, at Kings Pool, with the traditional “welcome serenade” sung a capella by the hospitable camp employees. Welcome to an African paradise! Designer open air living room When we make it to the camp’s common area, which comprises a lounge with restaurant and bar, we feel as if we are entering an African home furnishings exposition, so stylish is what greets our eyes: a giant sun deck with a smart semicircular cushioned lounges and colorful pillows that, for all intents and purposes, serves as the camp’s living room. Naturally, with a sublime view of the Kings Pool lagoon… Deck with a view We so like it here! This is where the Swedish king supposedly liked to splash around…hence the name “Kings Pool.” But as I spot the giant crocodiles on its banks, I am less inclined to believe the legend. But I don’t get into it… either the subject or the water. Think I’ll skip that swim… With dusk setting in slowly, rows and rows of oil lanterns are lit and the camp fire is stoked into life. On top of everything, it’s also becoming quite romantic! Dinner is shared with all guests at the long table The Kings Pool tents – doubles, to put it mildly The amazement keeps building, as Se conducts us to our “tent for two.” Here, too, everything is tastefully done, with a hint of colonial style. The first-class canvas tent, with mosquito net and protective reed ceiling, not only has a large sleeping area but also boasts a giant bathroom with double shower (!) that I can only dream of back home! And then there is the veranda: a place with lounge, private splash pool (without crocs) as well as an outdoor shower. The ensemble sits on a raised wooden platform, letting us enjoy a privileged view of the lagoon and, in the mind’s eye, of His Bold Royal Highness splashing around in it. Mamma mia – divinely beautiful! View of Kings Pool at dusk from our tent Culinary flights of fancy But Kings Pool is also tops when it comes to eating! Just the hors d’oeuvres served with tea or an aperitif are culinary highlights. And, of course, at every meal we revel in the mind-blowing view of the marsh. When a hippo occasionally yawns hugely in the river, the Africa feeling is perfect — and profound! We are still trying to absorb all the overwhelming impressions when, on the second day, we’re surprised by Se as she practically dragoons us to one of the two “hides” in the Kings Pool Camp. These are small lodges, hiding places really, from which guests can observe the wildlife up close without disturbing it. But today, the staff have turned the little pavilion into a private restaurant where we proceed to have a delightful tête-à-tête to celebrate Walter’s 50th birthday. Life is good at 50 and generally! Boma night at Kings Pool During our stay, a “Boma Night” is on the program. “Boma” signifies a circular piece of ground out in the open traditionally surrounded by high tree trunks or palisades. Many camps like Kings Pool make it a practice to serve a traditional evening meal buffet-style in the Boma. But before we settle down to the food, there is singing and dancing like there is no tomorrow. All the employees of Kings Pool Camp, from the cook to the chambermaids and the manager, get into it body and soul and invite the guests to join in the rhythmic doings. Not that we’re entirely tone-deaf and lead footed, but next to the agile Africans we do feel like slightly clumsy dancing bears… but then, after this warm-up round, they take us by the hand and lead us to the back part of the camp for the next phase of Boma night with the cry “Are you ready for your dinner?” Warm thanks… … to Se, for all the wonderful surprises she kept coming up with during our stay at Kings Pool. A big thank you as well to camp managers Kate and Peter, who look after all their guests very affectingly. Many thanks also to our guides Bobby and AB. How we got stuck in drift sand with these two gents and how Walter, sitting in the jeep and freely sharing his tips on shoveling your way out of a snowdrift, really wasn’t much help, you can read all about here in this Safari blog post. Guide Bobby proudly wears the Wilderness Safari fleece with the motto “Our journeys change lives” – how very true! And, last but not far from least: many thanks to Monika and Miriam of The Safari Source for the pointers and booking our adventure! ## Bush pilot adventure: on flight safari into the Okavango Delta Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/bush-pilot-flight-safari-wilderness-air To go on safari in the Okavango Delta, regardless of where, you will need to let yourself be flown by a bush pilot into the world’s largest inland delta. We were ready for it… Following our already spectacular safari in Chobe National Park (our travel report is here) the Okavango Delta was next and it was waiting for us. We had heard and read a great deal about it and were eager as beavers to fly into the huge wetlands! Because our initial safari leg had taken us to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, we were driven to the Botswana border, where we unloaded our gear and passed through the customs shack on foot to be delivered into the hands of the next driver on the other side. He took us a few more kilometers to the small airport at Kasane where he delivers us to a friendly safari staffer who checks our passports, tickets and weighs our baggage (in a Cessna the maximum baggage allowance is 20 kilos INCLUDING carry-on bag and camera). Even Katja having managed this time to pack the minimum, the young man confirms that everything is good to go and then he delivers us into the hands of a friendly airport employee who gets us through passport control. Our “light baggage” ready for the flying safari When we finally stand on the small airport’s tarmac, we are not surprised to be handed off once more, bags and all. The only intriguing thing is that we are taken charge of this time by a young blonde speaking Afrikaans-accented English who proceeds to lead us to a 4-passenger Cessna. “Yaaah”! Must be a student with a summer vacation job. Wearing a spiffy yellow reflective vest. Of course, standard article of clothing when you work at an airport. Katja getting ready for the air safari Well and good — but couldn’t the young passport checker himself have simply brought us to plane? After all, it’s just a few steps. All right, fine. Job-sharing Botswana-style… why not? There’s not much time for me to muse about the national economic sense or nonsense of it, because something astonishing happens in short order. The blonde hunkers down under the wing and starts unscrewing (!) a panel in the side of the plane below the cockpit. Without much ado, she stows our bags in a small compartment that looks like it’s about 20 centimeters across, then with the screwdriver tightens the cover again, next opens the airplane door and, looking at us clear-eyed with an encouraging smile, says “Ready for boarding?” Ahem, say what now? This just CAN’T be our pilot, right?! And where is our co-pilot? But now the dear girl strips off her yellow safety vest and proudly arranges her pilot wings on her chest and straightens her shoulder insignia: We are now looking in awe at Michaela Meiswinkel, bush pilot. All of 26 years young, already a flight instructor, she is one of only eight female bush pilots in southern Africa! Man o man! Experienced pilot that she is, she does the usual pre-flight checks, confers with the tower, closes the little window next to her and before Katja and I know it has us confidently airborne. It’s a bit bumpy up there, but that’s normal for the flight over the Okavango Delta due to the thermal rises above swamps, rivers, savannahs, meadows and lagoons differing quite a bit and creating a lot of air pockets as a result. Katja and Walter airborne on safari Quite a happening in its own right! Add to it is that the racket inside the plane makes conversation impossible: in lieu of it, from time to time Michaela points to a green and blue colored aeronautical map with many lines and markings, and then down to the green and blue colored Okavango Delta accompanied by a meaningful nod each time. Aha! Roger! Read you loud and clear! View of Okavango Delta from the air The approach to the small airstrip, a single, lonely runway of pounded sand almost lost in the bush, also has a special charm: Michaela makes a first pass at right angles across the runway to make sure no wildebeest, impalas or other anomalies are gamboling on it. Then, banking in a wide turn, she lines up the plane’s nose on the runway and sets us down right on target and soft as warm butter. Well done, Michaela! Wildebeest welcoming committee at the airstrip Bush pilot with a passion Two days later, we get a happy surprise when we see Michaela in the evening at Tubu Tree Camp again: We are told that she will be the one again to fly us to our next camp, the much-praised Kings Pool Camp at Linyanti. Michaela on safari We share a meal in the evening and let our bush pilot who obviously loves her job regale us with wild aeronautical tales, like the time an American refused to get into the Cessna when it dawned on him that Michaela would be piloting it. The next morning, they drive Michaela to the airstrip to pre-flight her Cessna A2-ANT for our hop. We are still sitting at our leisurely brunch, when we are suddenly told we would have more time in camp. Hmm? We look at each other nonplussed and then notice that there is a bit of commotion around the bank of radio transmitters. And then we find out: Hyenas! During the night they had chewed up the horizontal stabilizer and rubber tires on Michaela’s plane. We’re stuck. With hungry hyenas all around! Man o man o man! Hyena bite marks on A2-ANT’s horizontal stabilizer Fortunately, the Wilderness Air hub in Maun is not that far away, so that after only a two hour delay we are flown to our next destination by on-call duty pilot Kaone (or “Pink Panther” as everyone calls the tall, gangly bush pilot). Walter with bushpilot Kaone Grounded, Michaela can do nothing but wait for a mechanic to rivet the stabilizer to the plane again and bring some spare tires. A few days later, as we were leaving Maun, we see the freshly-riveted A2-ANT parked. And in the parking lot we bump into Michaela, now richer by one more tale to tell about hyenas. She’s there with her boy friend who is also a bush pilot! And also wears the dashing Wilderness Air pilot uniform. “Love in the bush,” you could say ;-) Flight safari boarding on Moremi airstrip Cessna wing with antenna Wilderness Air Cessna ## Beauties and beasts: the “Big Five” and “Ugly Five” Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/big-five-and-ugly-five Who doesn’t know them, the glamorous Big Five of African wildlife: the lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, and rhinoceros? Unbeknownst to many (including me, before I went on this safari), a few “ugly ducklings” carve out an existence in their shadow. Humorously called the “Ugly Five“, just what are the creatures that make it onto that ignominious list? The Big Five The moniker “Big Five” dates back to the heyday of big game hunting: Far from intended to pick out Africa’s best wildlife specimens size wise, to the big game hunters they meant the most difficult and dangerous when hunted. What follows is a quick recap of the trophy animals you’re advised to avoid entirely unless you’re an old, bold big game hunter or have stalked them in the bush with nothing but a bow and arrow or, better yet, armed only with a spear: Lion: the “king” of animals Leopard – the elegant big cat Buffalo – quick to attack, powerful Elephant – big, but subtle social intelligence Rhinoceros – Reclusive, but reportedly likes to stomp out camp fires. And that does it for the dangerous but celebrated Big Five. The Ugly Five Actually, the uglies can also be quite dangerous, but they were short-changed when it came to handing out gazelle-like elegance or even size — the textbook Ugly Five… In Botswana, we learned that they designate as the Ugly Five all the African wildlife that nature equipped with legs lacking in length, or with legs that are too long… or with a mix of both. Be that as it may, the bottom line is that any of them are unlikely to ever win a beauty contest. But then, as we know, beauty lies in the eye of the beholder: it just depends on how you look at things…still, for what it’s worth and in the interest of good safari reporting, here is the official “uglies” club: Marabou stork Ok, I’ll confess: I actually find the marabou stork fascinating in its own way… maybe because the big bird really does look like it did not come fully assembled. At least a neck seems to be missing? And the tail feather seem to have simply been cut off. That said, doesn’t the name still have an exotic ring to it though? “Incomplete” marabou stork Warthog Warthogs are not exactly the cutest things you’ve ever laid eyes on. With their bulgy eyes and their aggressive warthog tusks they do not make a good first impression. But when, despite their short legs, they still have drop to their knees to graze on the green stuff because of their even shorter necks, that’s where you draw the line! #gimmeabreak! Add to it that they’re not particularly smart and make up for it by being quite forgetful. Good grief, what an unflattering combination! Short legged, memory-challenged warthog Blue wildebeest When it comes to the proportions of the blue or brindled wildebeest, I’m not quite sure how to react: A solitary bull with his beard waving in the wind and curved horns actually looks kind of rakish. With his hide also supposed to sport a blue sheen, something I was not able to verify, however. Even when they are in full gallop, there is a certain elegance to their motion. But when blue wildebeest just kind of stand around, then their proportions with a lot up front and rather less behind does make them look sort of silly. Blue wildebeest in full gallop Hyena I don’t care for hyenas… That this dislike relates to the hungry hyenas Shenzi, Banzai, and Ed in Disney’s Lion King, I very much doubt. More likely, it has to do with their ungainly body shape and the excessively bared fangs… As it turned out, they used them and their strong jaws to maul the tail of our bush plane and its tires, so that we could not take off again and were stuck among the hyenas! Obviously, this present blog post witnesses to us escaping calamity and means we will be able to devote their own article to those bite-crazy hyenas… In any event, they really are so ugly that I did not bother photographing them. Purely from an optical angle, they actually somewhat resemble the no less predatory Cape hunting dog… Cape hunting dog…a reasonable hyena facsimile Vulture And last but by no means least, we have the vulture — esthetically, it almost seems “normal” — at least compared to its fellow Ugly Fives. But a closer look does make the vulture seem quite awful, the way it goes after its carrion meal and greedily tears at the hide of some accidentally killed creature. Vultures – greedy carrion clean-up crew I have no idea if the concept of the “Ugly Five” also has historical connections or if it was concocted as a marketing tool for curious tourists. I even tried googling it…no luck. Anyone? In the final analysis, however it originated, the Ugly Five collection supplies lively conversational material on safari… ## Okavango Delta: on a safari in earth’s largest inland delta Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/okavango-delta-safari The Okavango Delta is a one of a kind, must-see phenomenon for anyone traveling to Botswana. Being the largest inland river delta also means it has one of Africa’s highest concentrations of wildlife! It’s enough to make any safari lover’s heart beat faster. Ours included, to be sure! View of the Okavango Delta from the bush plane Alone the bird’s eye view of the Okavango Delta (much of it only accessible by small plane) is an impressive experience! Spread over some 20,000 km², the swamps, rivers, channels, water meadows and lagoons of this wetlands form a vast oasis surrounded by mostly barren desert. We couldn’t agree more that such a place richly deserves its designation as a UNESCO world heritage site. Wildlife watching in the Okavango Delta Even during the dry season, the delta’s pools and channels remain filled with water, which naturally attracts all manner of wildlife in large numbers and so it can boast of one of the highest year-round concentrations of wildlife anywhere on the planet. And with more than 400 kinds of birds in all sizes making themselves heard here, it’s also a “birder’s” paradise! Rare wattled cranes. Props to Kate Kenchington for pointing them out! We quickly learn to recognize birders by their giant telescope lenses. They use them to zoom the often small birds to considerable size — in total contrast to yours truly: I make do with a comparatively modest 200x mini-telescope. But then I’m after bigger game… Kambango, our guide from Tubu Tree Camp (click here to open our review in a new window) driving us from the airstrip to the camp soon realizes that in our case he is not dealing with “serious birders,” because when he points out a (small) owl to us, it takes me several minutes even with the jeep halted before I finally catch sight of the feathered creature in a treetop. This would never happen with a “serious birder” (Kambango’s affectionate term for bird lovers)… but because there is so much plumage to marveled at here, it can take him a good hour to ferry them the short distance to camp! In this way, Kambango establishes quickly that our preference is for the larger quadrupeds as opposed to wildlife on the wing. Still, the Marabou stork, which is classed among the Ugly Five, does somehow fascinate me. This homely fellow looks like some parts were left out during final assembly :-) Marabou stork at dawn Rare leopard sightings… We were not on our first safari here in the Okavango Delta: we got our safari chops a few years back in Kenya and South Africa where we observed wildlife without end. And we had arrived here directly from Chobe National Park (click here to open our video reportage in a new window), which is reputed to have the absolute highest wildlife density of them all. But never up to this point in our safari career had we encountered a leopard. So, when Kambango asked what we would like to see, I said only half-jokingly “a leopard would be great…” — since we already had checked off plenty of elephants, giraffes, buffaloes, lions and other game. He treated it as a joke, too, noting with a loud laugh that leopards indeed are very secretive and masterfully camouflaged, hence rarely seen. We know, we know. No problem. Just kidding, man! But the next thing we know, Kambango gets on the radio with his colleagues in a remote part of the bush talking east and south in a wild English-local dialect mix and then puts the gas pedal to the metal. Just so we all are on the same page: nowhere are there any guideposts in sight here, much less road signs, just a few faint tracks in the dirt. But somehow he seems to know exactly in which direction we need to tear along in such determined fashion. All we can do is hold on to our hats and cameras and let ourselves be shaken and stirred every which way in our seats. When Kambango comes to a skidding stop after a short but hair-raising road race through the rough terrain and the dust settles, there it is: A LEOPARD OUT IN THE OPEN! Leopard on the hunt We should have known from Kambango’s mischievous smile that conjuring up a leopard would not be much of a challenge for him — although he didn’t let on. In hindsight, we also know why: he closely monitors their tracks in the dust every morning and evening so that he knows which animals have gone where and when. We got pretty good at it ourselves after a few days of “sign reading” practice. Well, sort of. At least it was not long before we could definitely tell elephants footprints from tire tread marks. But at times Kambango was even able to tell us how fresh the tracks were and that the big cats must be nearby, to which we could only lamely smile. That isn’t really possible – or is it? Katja and I looked at each other knowingly, both of us thinking “talk is cheap — prove it!” To our total astonishment, our tracker takes only a few minutes each time to find leopards, lions, or even cheetahs, which aren’t even supposed to frequent the area! This is how he put it each time: “Look, here are fresh tracks. They must have come this way a short while ago…Oh, there they are!” And then he would point unerringly to a spot in the grass, or a bush, or tree. Or some place or other where there was nothing to be seen. Each time, we pull terribly interested faces. But he realizes quickly from our screwed-up eyes and disoriented camera pointing that he has to drive even closer. And then we reach a point where even we are able to distinguish the amazingly camouflaged big cats from the tall grass! Leopard with its cub Here are some more easily identifiable leopards… Leopard! Leopard snuffling around Relaxing Leopard Besides the rare(?) leopards, they tally countless other animals here, such as wildebeest, Cape hunting dogs, lions, giraffes, elephants, baboons, etc. Wildebeest herd Wild dog relaxing in the shadow Lion relaxing in the sun Giraffes But then they have plenty of water here besides… On the water in a mokoro dugout Another high point is to ride the Okavango Delta in a mokoro dugout, basically a four-meter long flat bottomed canoe. These watercraft used for fishing were formerly hewn out of the trunks of kigelia trees (aka sausage trees). Today they are made of fiberglass to keep the big trees from being cut down. In the flat Okavango Delta, the dugouts can be slowly poled across the water; the motion is reminiscent of a gondola ride in Venice. Well, they actually poke along more than they row, but in any event we glide silently and gently through the channels lined with reeds and water lilies… marvelous! As long as we don’t run into some ill-tempered hippo… Katja and Walter in the Mokoro in Okavango Delta Mokoro dugout Sunset in the Okavango Delta Many thanks to… …our guide Kambango, who took us up close to the beauty and uniqueness of the Okavango Delta and gave us three first-rate safari days! Ke itumetse! Guide Kambango Sinimbo and Mapula of Tubu Tree Camp ## Tubu Tree Camp – tenting on stilts in the Okavango Delta Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/tubu-tree-camp-tenting-okavango-delta The best way to get to Tubu Tree Camp in the Okavango Delta’s labyrinth of watercourses is by small plane. Once the plane sets down on the bush landing strip, there it is: just eight tents on elevated platforms that twine around a few trees with the ensemble adventurously connected by a raised wooden walkway. It’s life in mid-air in these ethno look “tents”. Dieser Review ist zuerst auf Deutsch erschienen unter reisememo.ch. By air into the Okavango Delta Okavango Delta seen from the bush plane Tubu Tree Camp sits on Hunda Island, the largest island in the Jao Concession, a private nature reserve located in the northwest Okavango Delta (see our photo safari reportage here). Alone the airborne approach over the Delta is enough to take your breath away… an adventure in its own right! We’ll have more to say about the flight with bush pilot Michaela and the hyenas that were after her in a separate article (click here). Beautiful Okavango Delta Sunset in the Okavango Delta This nature reserve’s unspoiled remoteness attracts many animals, typically elephants, lions, zebras, giraffes, wildebeest and more. The variety of bird life is also overwhelming; devoted birders with their giant telescope lenses will get their fill here of land and aquatic birds! Walter, however, stalks the big game equipped only with a small telescope lens. As for me, I even make do at times with just my smartphone, that’s how close we get to the game! Katja’s leopard close-up “Tenting” in Tubu Tree Camp Ok, to reiterate: Tubu Tree Camp consists of just eight tents on raised platforms connected by a mid-air boardwalk. Walter on the boardwalk at Tubu Tree Camp Now, “tenting” among wild animals far from civilization and bereft of cellphone service may not be everyone’s cup of tea. But rest assured, these tents owned by Wilderness Safaris are nothing like the pup tents for two that we pitch when camping back home. Far from it… Our tent in Tubu Tree Camp Canopy Bed in our tent Veranda of our tent Veranda at Tubu Tree Camp The guestroom tent structures at Tubu Tree Camp may also be intended for just two people, but that is where the similarity ends… each unit comes not only with a spacious, private veranda, canopy bed, and all kinds of room to roam, but even an extra shower outdoors! With early morning temperatures hovering around the zero mark, it was too chilly (and also still too dark) to shower in the bush. How much more pleasant, then, to duck under the alfresco shower in the warm African afternoon sun among the tree tops and sounds of the wilderness. Walter after a refreshing shower in the bush The (even) bigger tents in the central camp The common area of the Tubu Tree Camp has a spacious dining tent, a lounge, and an outside deck with pool. And then there is the outdoor bar that seems to be rooted under a gigantic Marula tree where every evening we contentedly savor our pre-dinner apéritifs. Swimming Pool at Tubu Tree Camp Open air bar with view Open air Bar at Tubu Tree Camp Decoration And last but not least: never ever have we experienced a loo with such a view! What about you? Tubu Tree Camp loo with a view Nature-driven days The day starts in more or less similar fashion in all the Botswana safari lodges: Our guide wakes us up at the crack of dawn around 6 a.m. and six degrees centigrade. The challenge now is to quickly roll out from under the covers and sleepily grope for the fleece jacket, followed by rapidly pulling on as many additional warming layers as possible. This is followed, around 6:30 a.m. by an ample breakfast buffet before we head out on safari around 7 a.m. as the sun comes up. It’s surprisingly rigorous. And surprisingly cold! We wore down jackets and wrapped ourselves in wool blankets in the open safari jeeps. Even resorted to gloves one time… and this in June; but then it is, of course, winter in the southern hemisphere. Then comes the end of the rains and with that the start of peak season hereabouts. During the day, the temperature now reaches a pleasant 20-24 degrees centigrade. Hence, we lived by the tried and true “peeling the onion” principle… Sunrise safari Katja & Walter snug on safari with guide Kambango In line with how many animals have been sighted, it’s back to the camp around 11 a.m. Waiting will be a copious brunch or a fine lunch repast. Then it’s siesta time, until around 3:30 p.m., when tea or coffee with cake sweeten the afternoon. Fortified and rested, we then settle into the jeep once more and head out on the second part of our safari. Naturally, in addition to observing the animals, we end it with the traditional “sundowner”! Evenings, we mostly dine with other guests at the long table and so have a chance to let the day pass in review in company. Naturally, everyone will have seen an even bigger lion… Guide Kambango on the lookout Katja and Walter ready for the sundowner out in the wild Dinner setting Sustainability in the Wilderness Camps Tubu Tree Camp, a classic camp operated by Wilderness Safaris – the largest purveyor of luxury camps and lodges in southern Africa – like their other Wilderness Camps is grounded in the principle of the “4C’s”: (Commerce, Conservation, Community, and Culture) and built with holistic and ecological perspectives in mind. We were simply blown away by it all! But a word of warning nevertheless: Anyone who plans to go on safari in Botswana and checks the price tags on the Internet or in the travel brochures is likely in for a shock. Be prepared to dig deep in the REALLY big wallet! For one thing, this is because the really impressive areas inside the Okavango Delta can only be reached by plane. For another thing, you will be far from any semblance of mass tourism whatsoever. But what you get in return is an exclusive safari adventure of the highest quality! By heading for the most beautiful, in part private, nature reserves, you will experience in Botswana what are probably the best safaris in Africa. A great big thank you… …to all the camp staff, especially the resourceful Mapula, who looked after us at all times and made our stay at Tubu Tree Camp a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Kambango, our guide, contributed greatly to making it a rewarding stay. More on this in our separate report on our Okavango Delta experience. Many thanks also to Monika and Miriam with The Safari Source for planning and booking our trip! ## Ngoma Safari Lodge – a wilderness outpost? Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/ngoma-safari-lodge-chobe-river The first place we bedded down in Botswana was at the Ngoma Safari Lodge. We’d heard and read a great deal about this luxury destination: the accommodations are supposedly beyond belief and the safaris as well. Naturally, we were curious as cats about what was waiting for us in the renowned Chobe National Park… It started in semi-adventurous fashion with our crossing the border (on foot!) from Zimbabwe to Botswana: after spotting my Swiss passport the black border guard greets us with the “Chuchichäschtli” shibboleth in perfectly unaccented Swiss German and with the biggest grin south of the equator! We have to be careful not to burst out laughing; who knows, it might get us arrested on the spot otherwise. This actually happened to acquaintances of ours, admittedly for more serious transgressions… Such may have been their fate, but we on the other hand are picked up at the appointed time on the other side of the border by the driver from the Ngoma Safari Lodge and chauffeured without major obstacles (relatively speaking…) through the heart of Chobe National Park to our lodgings. Obstacle 1 Obstacle 2 Obstacle 3 Grand arrival at Ngoma Safari Lodge The reed-roofed lodge with its rustic ethnic look clings to the edge of a plateau to offer sweeping views of a near-by water hole and the Chobe River, which here forms the border with neighboring Namibia. We actually were ushered into the lodge’s main building from the building’s back, but for a good reason: it let us move through lounge, restaurant, and terrace in a dramatic sequence of ever-larger spaces, a cascade of impressions that ended in the panoramic outdoors view and with being handed a welcome, moist towelette. Now this is how you do reception! Frontal view of the Ngoma Safari Lodge Entrance to the main building of the Ngoma Safari Lodge View with Chobe River The view from the terrace with rock pool Check prices and availability here: Lodge managers Judy and Peter bid us a cheery welcome as if they had known us for ages. And then there was Jona, the good-humored manager of the parent company Africa Albida Tourism, who did his level best to appreciate my well-worn witticisms and even top them now and then. In any event, the banter went non-stop. Jonathan Hudson of Africa Albida Tourism with lodge managers Judy and Peter Hepburn Adventuring at Ngoma Safari Lodge Ngoma Safari Lodge offers guests a variety of adventure activities: bush walks, game safaris, night safaris, and river cruises. Wildlife sightings are guaranteed, so dense is the population of all sorts of quadrupeds and bipeds here! We did “the whole nine yards,” including the bush walk (here is our review), and enjoyed it all immensely! The game safari and the day excursion into Chobe National Park are beyond the scope of this article, hence we posted separate reports on them. Because in Chobe National Park, there’s more than just swimming elephants to marvel at… Giraffe on the bank of the Chobe Sundowner by the Chobe River Those interested taking a break from being out in the wild can relax by the pool with a gin and tonic on the spacious terrace at sunset while watching a herd of buffalo pass in review. It just doesn’t get any better than this! At least so we thought; after all, this was only our first lodge… Sunny terrace with view of the Chobe River and Namibia on the other side Buffalo herd heading for the water hole Sunset over Chobe River Baobab tree at dusk Terrace and illuminated baobab tree The suites The lodge’s eight suites are just as stylish as the main building and appointed with just as fine an eye for detail. You can indulge in the spectacular view even from the canopy bed — simply sensational! Culinary Highlights The “aahh-s und oohh-s” continued when we sat down to the appetizingly presented meals: Here, chef Eva and servers Zita, Peter, and Sam see to it that your physical well-being also gets its due. And how well they do so, here in the middle of a wilderness! For as the title of this article already hints: We wonder if in the Ngoma Safari Lodge we find ourselves in an outpost of civilization in the wilderness or if it is really one with this wilderness outside the adjacent national park… Evening mood in the restaurant open on the river Marinated grilled chicken breast with Cajun cream sauce At dinner on the second evening, we are surprised by a birthday cake for me and a serenade joined in by the cook, service staff and rangers. How delightful! My birthday was actually a few months earlier, but the travel agent knew, and so presumably did the lodge operator, that we booked this Botswana trip for my 50th birthday. I guess they think it’s never too late to celebrate ;-) Just for that, I tried to bluff that it was only my 30th. If only Katja hadn’t burst out laughing, I’m sure I would have fooled everyone! Warm thanks go to… Judy and Peter of Ngoma Safari Lodge! They manage the lodge with a great deal of passion and, together with their staff, touchingly look after their guests’ well-being. Well done! Many thanks also to The Safari Source for the tip and for booking our trip. We will be happy to recommend you! Everything worked out beautifully ;-) All set for adventure! ## Chobe River safari walk – adrenaline, anyone? Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/walking-safari-chobe-river During our stay at Ngoma Safari Lodge, wild dogs, jackals, and lions all showed us their fangs. And then, Peter, the lodge manager, invited us on a walking safari along the Chobe River. To be sure, with a rifle slung over his shoulder in lieu of us riding safely in a jeep… so what could possibly go wrong? Peter, Katja and Walter on their early-morning safari walk Still, we were a bit uneasy: with buffaloes, zebra, and plenty of antelopes ringing the water hole yesterday, said predators were never far away. And here we were about to do a safari on foot? …even though the staff had assured us during the previous day’s excursion into Chobe National Park (here is our review) that only in the jeep were we really safe?! So, even with Peter telling us that (to date) nothing untoward had happened and that he was well-armed in any case, it was with some trepidation that we set out on our cross-country adventure, following in the countless, fresh(!) animal tracks. Skirting the man-made water hole — a magnet for elephants, giraffes, and assorted other quadrupeds — we made our way down to the Chobe, a mighty tributary of the even wider Zambesi. This morning, it was a rather quiet scene (fortunately!?). Reading the many tracks (corroborated by last evening photos), however, we saw that, besides the ever-present twitchy impalas, the elephants, zebras, giraffes, and water buffaloes, Cape hunting dogs, jackals, and other predatory fauna had also been around. Buffalo herd moving toward the water hole Life here happens against the imposing backdrop of the Chobe River: this being late June and the rainy season having ended, the river still ran high. The elephants happily splashed in it, hippos wallowed in its mud and the crocodiles snatched the occasional meal from it when not dozing in the sun on the river bank… Snoozing croc The elephant menace Most of the pachyderms eat their fill of the lush buffalo or caracao grass growing rank everywhere: introduced by Central American missionaries for domestic use in their small ponds, the invasive weed today thrives to the point where it sometimes chokes hydro power stations and even the river itself. The elephants and hippos couldn’t be happier of course. Indeed, given these paradisiacal conditions, their numbers have grown so large that they themselves have become the problem: Botswana alone has an elephant population of 200,000 of the animals; it could support 150,000 at most. In their present number, the herds lay waste entire forests with their destructive eating habits. It’s a piece of cake, after all, for an elephant to knock over a tree to better get at its leaves. Also, they enjoy scratching their hides on a tree trunk so much that they strip its bark, which also causes the tree to die, because with the bark go the capillary tubes that transport liquid up into the tree crown. In some places, the thick-headed beasts have created entire forests of ghost trees. It may look exotic, but this is not sustainable behavior! In fact, to protect the trunks of the last remaining baobab trees in the area from the elephants the tree trunks actually have had spiky fencing wrapped around them. The tourists couldn’t be happier, because it’s all so picturesque! But for the local population, it’s an elephant-sized headache. Zebra with dead tree stripped of its bark In the end, we got a lot out of our walking safari: peace and idyllic nature! And we learned quite a bit from Peter about behaviors of the animals populating Chobe National Park and how to read their signs: We were especially taken with the small beetles that dig a funnel in the sand to waylay passing ants. Any ant that tumbles into the funnel is done for: it can’t climb up its unstable surface again and is snatched by the beetle waiting in its hidey-hole Cunning! As our walking safari drew to its end, I asked Peter where we might spend the night in this wilderness. He came back with his mischievous advice: Many thanks for this adventure, Peter! Here is our review of the beautiful Ngoma Safari Lodge. ## The swimming elephants of Botswana’s Chobe River Source: https://travelmemo.com/botswana/chobe-national-park-elephants Botswana’s Chobe National Park, which takes its name from the river flowing through it, shelters one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in Africa. The largest remaining population of elephants on earth survives here. For us it was reason enough to mount our telephoto lens and start stalking the huge beasts — eye to eye, so to speak! For this part of our adventure, we “lodged” in the auspiciously-named Ngoma Safari Lodge (here is our review). Our guide, Mukamba – or “MK” as he introduces himself to simplify things – picks us up early in the morning for an all-day excursion through this famed national park. For starters, MK takes us straight through the middle of the picturesque park on a tarred road. Already on this highway we encounter our first elephants as they cross it in that characteristic ponderously deliberate shuffle. We’re in the great outdoors! Totally at ease, MK flashes an understanding smile at our greenhorn excitement. Naturally, he knows where we’re coming from… We drive down to the banks of the Chobe near the small town of Kasane, famous the world over for its baobab trees. The hollow trunks of these trees are large enough to accommodate people like us inside them. The giant trees are said to actually have been used as jails in colonial times! Baobab tree at dusk Cruising on the Chobe River I’m ready for the adventure And next we’re off on our river cruise. It only takes a few minutes before we see our first hippos, more elephants, crocodiles, a monitor lizard, vultures and African darter birds drying their wings in the sun that is gathering warmth. Beastly beautiful! Even if all that we see plowing through the water is just a bit terrifying … Darters letting the sun dry their wings Dangerous hippo duo Crocodile lurking Monitor lizard sunning itself Water lilies in the Chobe river Baobab trees And, to top it all, bathing elephants? They are actually excellent swimmers! In any case, an amusing spectacle: Elephants enjoying a bath and the “tall” grass Eye to eye with the elephant The intense drive back to the lodge next takes us over sand spits along the Chobe River. Here, too, we see a whole host of wild animals! For instance, we see giraffes doing their “splits” just so they can get at the water with their long necks. I learn something that I never realized: A giraffe’s heart has to put out a lot of pumping action in order to get the blood up that long neck into the head high above the ground. So, when they are drinking like this, too much blood rushes to their head and then, if they raise the head quickly, it makes them a bit dizzy at first. Like when we stand up too quickly. That’s the lion’s favorite moment for mounting an attack! Giraffe Incidentally, giraffes sleep lying on the ground; however, head and neck are always erect. You might say because of the excess pressure… Drinking giraffes And precisely where there is so much prey, there are lots of lions, too. Here they are; it’s siesta time after they’d eaten their fill on what must have been a rather large animal. They didn’t even bother to lick their muzzles clean. They simply fell asleep beforehand… Lion pride at siesta time Impalas everywhere… And buffalos Before turning the last bend in the river, we enjoy the obligatory “sundowner“: it’s how we enjoy one more natural spectacle — the African red setting sun. Many thanks… to our guide Mukamba (aka MK) for an unbeatable day of attractions! And thanks also to our second guide, Bevan, who navigated us on the Chobe River. Guide Mukamba with Katja and Walter, with second guide Bevan behind the camera ## Life by a water hole – Victoria Falls Safari Lodge Source: https://travelmemo.com/zimbabwe/victoria-falls-safari-lodge-water-hole The spot where the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is located is as unique as the view from here is spectacular: situated on a natural plateau, the lodge is just four kilometers from Victoria Falls and with its exclusive view of a water hole in Zambezi National Park, it promises beastly attractions and much more! View over the water hole from the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge Fortune – as luck would have, it’s our driver’s name – transports us from the Victoria Falls airport to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. On the way there, we catch a distant glimpse of the tremendous mist billowing up from the waterfalls that we had also seen earlier from the plane coming in. Soon after, in the lodge’s garden, we are greeted by our first warthogs. The little guys are not exactly grace in motion and they aren’t one of the glamorous Big Five, unlike their bigger cousins, but belong instead among the lesser-known Ugly Five. We Swiss office types, however, are pleased to encounter them, as they are completely in keeping with the character of our authentic lodgings… Victoria Falls Safari Lodge The lodge’s lobby entrance The lounge with a dazzling view The two restaurants, the open Buffalo Bar, and the spacious lounge with library reward us with wide-ranging views of the sunset and a water hole where buffalo, elephants, impala, kudu, warthogs and numerous other, less familiar two- and four-legged fauna congregate to slake their thirsts. Buffalo herd and other fauna at the water hole Sunset behind the water hole Every day at noon, they feed the vultures at the lodge. A spectacular happening, during which we can observe the carrion eaters from disturbingly close range. Not something for the tenderfoot when hundreds of these huge birds circle in the sky above you! Normally, feeding the wildlife hereabouts “artificially” is frowned upon. But the vultures have threatened status and since they are so important as cleanup crews in the area, the proprietors give them a leg up. Under their wings, as it were. Vultures on alert… …before they swoop into action. Suites with a view The lodge houses its guests in 72 rooms and suites, all of them decorated in striking colors and with stylish interiors. We reside in a split-level unit, with the living area downstairs and upstairs the four-poster bed with mosquito net canopy. And, need I mention it, we have a private veranda overlooking the water hole. And all sorts of gym equipment for the cheeky baboons! Their young make a considerable din cavorting about the woodenwork. Closing the windows tight is recommended, that is, if you don’t want to go hunting for your stuff or the suite’s decorative objects in the bush later. Obviously, we still inaugurate the veranda as the very top priority. But not until we’ve chased off the baboons with our wild gesticulations and European noises, that is. Let the vacation begin! A prosecco vacation start Our split-level’s living area Here you’ll find the relevant information on prices and availability: Care for a crocodile appetizer? The view is also terrific from the restaurant where we enjoy service Zimbabwe-style: Today, our waiter is “Talent” – I swear we did not make up his name or the others. If fact, we make sure, a little gingerly, if we had heard the name correctly. To which he straight-out answered: Sure. They don’t call me Talent for nothing! After this seemingly clever off-the-cuff but probably well-practiced remark, we let our talented waiter talk us into a crocodile appetizer. After having breezily agreed to it, however, I start feeling a little queasy at the not overly attractive reptile that now crossed before my mind’s eye. But, when the croc snack arrives, I give myself courage by invoking the motto “other countries, other customs” and resolutely pick up knife and fork, even if still with a slight squint and a somewhat soured mien… But all the mental turmoil was for nothing: the croc tastes like slightly chewy pan-fried chicken. Bon appetit! Check! Been there, done that! The next day, on our Zambezi River Cruise they again offer us appetizer brochettes of crocodile. Seasoned crocodile eaters by now, after we let the staff tempt us a bit, we help ourselves with expressly nonchalant mien and stoic look as if it was the most normal thing in the world. No crocodile here – in its place, a salmon amuse-bouche Oh! With all this to-do about the waterhole I nearly forgot the main reason for our coming to “lodge” here to begin with: the Victoria Falls, of course! But thereby hangs another tale… Our warm thanks… to Monika and Miriam with The Safari Source to the recommendation and for booking our adventure! Great thanks, also, to our waiter Talent and Fortune, our driver. We really grooved on the fascinating philosophical dialogue on fortune on the final transfer to Botswana ;-) Information on prices and availability: ## Zambezi River cruise (almost) to Victoria Falls Source: https://travelmemo.com/zimbabwe/zambezi-explorer-river-cruise-victoria-falls The Zambezi River plummets thundering a hundred meters straight down to make Victoria Falls. But before we get more into it, let’s take a little cruise on the river into the sunset. And they just happen to have a cruise for that here… aptly called, what else, the Sunset Cruise. Also, just to end the suspense: the cruise boats actually keep a safe distance from the roaring waterfalls; after all, engines have been known to quit. You’re taken only close enough to where you can just see the mist rising from the Victoria Falls. But at least it’s in all the rainbow colors! Victoria Falls misty rainbow But that takes absolutely nothing away from the sunset cruise. Afford yourself the Signature Deck of the Zambezi Explorer Cruise Line, and you’ll be assured not only a view from the uppermost deck but also have access to a lively lounge and are treated to a never-ending snack service. To confess, we were not as conscientious as usual in keeping track of all different courses so we won’t account for all of them here: but be assured that all the fare Isaiah served us tasted very good, in fact, so good that afterwards we could easily do without dinner. Isaiah serving fine skewers – these with crocodile! Cheese and vegetables on skewers Zambesi River sushi But all along, of course, it’s nature that plays first violin here: besides the enchanting stillness on the river and the panoramic views, it is the birds that captivate us, and the hippos and the occasional crocodile! At each sighting, the captain considerately steers the boat so close that we can just about retract our zoom telescopes. After each rush of excitement and gathering of photographers at the rail, we do manage to breathlessly exchange a few words – was that really a crocodile or just some branch after all? – and sink, the exhausted explorers, back into our lounge chairs, to restore ourselves by sipping from a gin and tonic and nibbling on our snacks. Walter & Katja enjoying the sunset cruise Signature deck bar with view Signature deck The Zambezi Explorer cruise boat during blue hour Safari life is rough! Many thanks to The Safari Source for the tip and booking this cruise for us! ## Victoria Falls – nonstop water, water everywhere! Source: https://travelmemo.com/zimbabwe/victoria-falls-waterfalls It so happened that during our South America travels we had missed out on the Iguazu waterfalls in Argentina. There’s just no way you can be everywhere all the time. So, for our African safari in Botswana I insisted all the more on including Victoria Falls in the itinerary. Just so we could get sopping wet — in brilliant sunshine! To be sure, yes, our Swiss Rhine Fall is absolutely spectacular — but even so, it “can’t hold water” to Victoria Falls. That’s because in Victoria Falls you see nature at play on such a gigantic scale that it could even be considered the largest waterfall in the world; it just depends on how you measure it. But more on this later… Victoria Falls make an earthshaking noise and, under the right conditions toward the end of the rainy season, the mist billowing so high above the falls can still be seen from more than 30 kilometers away! Or from your plane on its approach… We booked a guided tour to learn all we could about this thundering mass of water. We were guided to the falls by our expert “Clouds” (his real name!) of Africa Travel Vicfalls. The falls that have been roaring for millions of years offer a truly breathtaking spectacle from each of the 16 overlooks he took us to. At every stop and in between, Clouds filled us in on a multitude of factoids and historical dates about this wonder of the world. Our guide “Clouds” explaining Victoria Falls to Katja It was the famous British Africa explorer David Livingstone who “discovered” Victoria Falls in 1855. When he first saw the mighty falls from the only accessible speck of land in the middle of the Zambezi River (called “Livingstone Island” today) he promptly named them after his then-reigning queen. The indigenous people, it should be said, also call the spectacular show put on by nature “Mosi-oa-Tunya” (“the smoke that thunders”), which is a very apt description for this awesome ensemble of spray, mist, and the constant roar. Here is our attempt at capturing the grandeur: Victoria Falls were created when tectonic shifts opened a cleft in the hard basaltic rock surface. Even today, the geological situation is far from fixed: the subsurface consists partly of sandstone, which causes the waterfalls to slowly shift north as they wear away the rock. Close measurement of this migration lets scientists predict from what vantage points visitors in coming decades will view Victoria Falls. The only question is, what will happen to the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia? :-) Walter ready to “dive” into the waterfalls. In 1989, UNESCO declared Victoria Falls a World Natural Heritage Site. Although the waterfall is neither the highest nor the widest in the world, it is nevertheless the biggest, because measuring 1,708 meters wide and 108 meters high does make it the world’s single largest stretch of falling water. The Victoria Falls Bridge The venerable rail, automobile, and bungee-jumping bridge was erected in 1905 by Sir Ralph Freeman, a steel connector between what today are the countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe. (To be sure, there was no bungee jumping at the time…) The very same Freeman also threw the famous bridge across Sydney harbor, starting that project in 1923. It was Cecil John Rhodes who came up with the idea for a bridge over the waterfalls. His dream was to ride the train from Cairo to Capetown and feel the “spray from the waterfalls on the train cars” in between. Not exactly a small vision, I have to admit… Unfortunately, he bridge had not been completed by the time he died, so that he missed his dreamed-of train ride the length of the continent. The 198-meter long bridge spans the immense chasm at a height of 128 meters. The construction is also renowned in bungee jumping circles for a breathtaking 111 meter, 4-second bungee jump into the rainbow mist; the jump is known as the “Shearwater bungee.” We left younger adrenaline junkies to take that plunge, determined as were to keep terra firmly under our own feet. The Victoria Falls Bridge Pointers: The user fee for Victoria National Park currently amounts to USD 30 per person. And, do not forget your rain gear! All the sunshine in the world will not keep you from getting soaked by the spray. And not just soaked, but sopping, dripping wet: like it was raining buckets! Walter at least laughed uproariously every time a bucket doused him and his floppy hat. That’s how “shocking” the whole experience was ;-) Wet in sunshine: Walter, Clouds and Katja Had we known what awaited us, the hiking boots would have stayed behind high and dry and been replaced by rubber sandals… but at least the camera proved to be spray proof. Lucked out there! ## From asparagus field to gourmet kitchen – a contemplation Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/from-asparagus-field-to-gourmet-kitchen-a-contemplation Things are happening with the Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant association! Eager to highlight the uniqueness of the various Relais & Châteaux houses in Switzerland and create a better understanding of the passion and personal touch their maîtres de maison and chefs bring to these establishments and regions, we were invited to the venerable Mammertsberg in eastern Switzerland. What a treat! Preserve the richness and diversity of world cuisines and promote the tradition of hospitality is the motto of the globe-spanning Relais & Châteaux association of individually-owned exclusive hotels and top restaurants. The members’ commitment to protecting local heritages and the environment was set down in a manifesto that the association presented before UNESCO in 2014. It engaged the members “to contribute to sustaining our natural resources and ecosystems by using local and seasonal products and countering the waste of food.” It was against this background that we received an invitation from Mylène Oquidan of Relais & Châteaux and hosts Luisa and August Minikus to partake of the pleasure and hospitality of the Mammertsberg and so experience this vision up close. August Minikus guarantees soaring culinary creations there. With his young kitchen brigade, he celebrates light, creative gourmet dishes of the highest quality in which he marries regional and seasonal products with international influences. While at Mammertsberg, we had a chance to visit two local vegetable and fruit producers in the company of this distinguished chef with 17 Gault Millau points and 1 Michelin star. Gourmet chef August Minikus with his purchase of sweet Thurgau strawberries White asparagus from the Fahrmaadhof farm in Diepoldsau In a downpour, we went to the Fahrmaadhof owned by the Britschgi family in Diepoldsau from where Minikus sources his asparagus and other seasonal vegetables. They have been growing white asparagus since 2004. By now, on its 32 acres the family enterprise produces about 40 tons of white asparagus every year! Agronomist Simon provided an interesting behind-the-scenes look at how white asparagus is cultivated. We were interested to learn that it requires sandy, slightly permeable soil and that each spring they cover the sprouting asparagus with earthen mounds to keep the sunlight off them. Cutting asparagus, out of the rain under a protective tarp He also let us in on another little secret: they accelerate the growth of the asparagus spears with mini-tunnels and in-soil heating, so that they can harvest and sell them even before start of the official Swiss white asparagus season. Admiringly, we watched as women workers diligently sorted and packed the white spears. And this is how the light lunch of white asparagus by August Minikus looked afterwards: Freshly cut Thurgau white asparagus Strawberries from the Sonnenhof in Steinebrunn Our next stop was the Sonnenhof, a traditional family farm where they plant, tend, and harvest strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and currants with love and second-generation know-how. The farm was started in 1973 by Werner and Rita Müller. In 2010, the couple turned the business over to their son Matthias. He now carries on the berry business with enthusiasm and help from his wife and children. Our chef guide personally escorted us on a tour of the strawberry plantings and passed on to us a few facts about this sweet fruit of lovely shape and glowing color. Matthias Müller describing the characteristics of 8 (!) different strawberry varieties They grow strawberries at Sonnenhof in hanging gardens. Just like a potted plant, the strawberry plants grow in natural earth. Depending on the variety and atmospheric conditions, the taste of strawberries can vary significantly. We were given the chance to try 8 (!) different varieties (we had no idea that there even were that many?!) Besides the delicate Darselect, Joly, and Elsanta berries, Müller experiments every year with new varieties. Let it be told that strawberries actually have more vitamin C than oranges! Despite being 90 percent water. Thanks to a surprisingly small 32 kcal of food value per 100 grams and the high vitamin and mineral content, they are often found in diets — however, NOT when eaten with a piece of chocolate cake. Dessert with fresh Thurgau strawberries and chocolate cake A word of reflection It is not that we had no notion of where vegetables and fruit come from and that producing them takes effort, sweat, and passion. But this visit made us truly aware once again what all has to happen unseen by us so that we can pick ripe strawberries or finely sorted, bundled white asparagus from grocery store shelves just like that without a second thought. So we want to take this opportunity to express our respect and a great big thank you to all growers that, daily and in all kinds of sometimes lousy weather, lavish such care on the cultivation of these products and help us put those fresh fruits and vegetables on our plates. Photographer Walter enjoying the cloudy skies© Foto Christine Hinnen Warm thanks also to Luisa und August Minikus of the Mammertsberg as well as Relais & Châteaux and PrimCom for the invitations and the extremely fascinating “farm tour”! ## Gourmet experience in the Mammertsberg by Relais & Châteaux Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/mammertsberg-by-relais-chateaux-gourmet Recently, Relais & Châteaux extended invitations to one of their legendary gourmet adventures of the special kind. Happening this time: 17 Gault-Millau points, 1 Michelin star, 1 sommelière, 1 world champion chef in a manor house on the shore of Lake Constance. We naturally couldn’t wait to take it in with all our senses… Someone who is not yet familiar with Relais & Châteaux, the Paris-headquartered hotel and restaurant collection, but wants to savor a gourmet dinner should take a closer look at one of the establishments in the chain. Fortunately, they can be found all over the globe now :-) Being greeted personally by the host is standard practice in these hotels and restaurants. In the Mammertsberg, chef de cuisine August Minikus doubles as host – know that his hearty handshake comes with 17 Gault Millau points and 1 Michelin star! And standing at the innkeeper’s side is judicious wife Luisa Minikus, sommelière by profession and therefore just as important… August Minikus, Mylène Oquidan of Relais & Châteaux in the center and Luisa Minikus on the right So much for explanations… Let the good times roll. The Mammertsberg With the seigneurial Relais & Châteaux Mammertsberg comes a most beautiful panoramic view. It offers a view of the distant Appenzeller Alps, the surrounding apple trees, rape fields, and the shimmering Lake Constance. To complete the idyll: you’ll hear from time to time, besides the ubiquitous bird song, a donkey’s hee-haw accompanied by chickens cackling right along. Main building and entrance to the Mammertsberg restaurant The historic estate was renovated in 2013 by star Architect Tilla Theus, who is renowned and controversial in equal parts. Here, however, she has deftly demonstrated how to gently renovate a more than 100-year old house with filigree style elements and expand it with a modern addition. We were simply enthralled by it! The winding staircase that connects the restaurant with the lounge one flight up adds an extravagant, space-configuring element. Dining room with the extravagant circular stairs The lounge in the upstairs gallery Out of practical considerations, you access the six guest rooms (3 double rooms and 3 suites) in the upper floors of the venerable old main building not by the winding staircase but via modern glass elevator instead. Depending on the room you’re in, you revel in a magnificent view of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, or of Lake Constance or of the hilly Canton Thurgau landscape. Never mind for now, we won’t need the rooms until after the meal; let’s fire up that kitchen! Points and a star Exclusively guided by watchwords like pleasure and hospitality, Luisa and August Minikus regale demanding palates with a symbiosis of creative star cuisine and a first-rate wine selection. Genially, they don’t let it go at that: for the interested lover of haute cuisine, they delight in clarifying their gastronomic concept and discoursing on the noble vintages they pair with it. August Minikus in his element What combining so many Gault Millau points with a Michelin star achieves soon becomes eye-poppingly apparent. So much so, in fact, that we weren’t quite ready to dine on the three-dimensional works of art that appeared on our table. Were they really meant to be eaten? But it only took a little encouragement from the service staff to let us succumb to each of the lucullan temptations as they were served (but not before taking 2-3 snapshots of each) … Table setting shortly before the action started… Amuse-bouche of salmon, asparagus cream brulé and lemon gelee Variation on beef with carrots, radish, watercress and quail egg Sole and tuna on asparagus, wasabi hollandaise, spinach and tapioca Veal on its own raviolo with chanterelle, root vegetables, peas and potato Thurgau berries, pistachios, sour cream and lemon Sweetmeats on the etagère It goes without saying that the mouth-watering dinner was harmoniously accompanied by choice wines, elegantly paired and staged by hostess Luisa Minikus. We tasted absolutely nothing here but Dionysian delights… Hostess and graduate sommelière Luisa Minikus Wine cellar with selection of Clos d’Agon The individual courses really did appear like picture compositions! When we remarked on this, August Minikus shared a little secret of his craft with us: his first step in creating something new for the menu is to sketch it. So, a new chocolate cake dessert, for instance, might start out like this… Dessert sketch autographed by August Minikus …and then materialize like this: Dessert with fresh Thurgau strawberries and chocolate cake The World Junior Chefs champion and his passionate brigade Of course, the Mammertsberg does not just bear the imprint of two simpatico hosts. Creating in the kitchen is, among others, up-and-coming chef Yannick Hollenstein. The former apprentice under August Minikus (diploma with top grade) by now is a member of the Swiss Junior Chefs team and a world champion in his own right. Wow! And it really did taste world-class… Junior Chef world champion Yannick Hollenstein A final word about the service staff is, yes, absolutely called for: In NOTHING of what they provide do they take a backseat to the special architecture and high-flying gastronomy: Vanessa Schudel, Assistant manager and Chef de Service and Simon Wyss, deputy Chef de Service, know how to read every wish from their guests’ eyes before they even know themselves what next new thing they could wish for. They were always there for us at the right moment, with sure instincts, Madonna-like smiles, and a hospitality that says: there is nothing better in this world than cossetting our guests. First class! And not just because I would have left my smartphone if not for them… First-rate service by Vanessa Schudel and Simon Wyss Address: Relais & Châteaux Mammertsberg Bahnhofstrasse 28 9306 Freidorf Webseite: mammertsberg.ch Our thanks go to… The chef’s brigade supporting our hosts August and Luisa Minikus! An equally big thumbs-up goes to the exceptionally attentive service staff! (I can’t say enough about them!) Bien joué! You made it a perfect experience! Last but far from least, we thank Mylène Oquidan of Relais & Châteaux and Sabine Biedermann with the PrimCom PR Agency for the perfect event organization! ## Historic or hip, Vilnius has it all Source: https://travelmemo.com/lithuania/vilnius-historic-or-hip Lithuania’s capital was the 2009 European Culture Capital and you can sense with every step and every turn why. It is at once historic, baroque, a little bit nuts, and hip and trendy! Vilnius is young Europe but with its own unique personality traits. Communicating in English is the way to go in Vilnius. Since few visitors to their small country are expected to learn Lithuanian, it follows that the Lithuanians learn English in school. But if you want to be polite and try anyway: Ačiù means “thank you.” It’s pronounced Ah-tschiu so that it sounds almost like a sneeze. Labas is “hello,” when meant for one person but it becomes sveiki when greeting a group. The cashier at the supermarket checkout, in any event, gave me a mischievous smile as I thanked her for the change with ačiù. Either I can’t pass as Lithuanian by my looks or I didn’t quite lose the accent ;-) Museums Vilnius is a museum-dense city. Based on local input, I came up with the following list. The Vilnius Tourism website will provide you with an overview of each: KGB-Museum Money Museum Technology Museum Toy Museum Tolerance Center National Art Gallery Amber Museum Because my schedule was tight, I only took in the Amber Museum. Admission costs 60 cents, and with it you get a personal guided tour explaining how Baltic amber comes about. I marveled at ostrich egg-sized amber lumps and learned also how to distinguish genuine amber from the fakes. Amber Museum — Gintaro Galerija Muziejus Vilnius www.ambergallery.lt In the Vilnius Amber Museum Shopping in Vilnius The main shopping street is Boulevard Gedimino Prospektas; straight as if drawn with a ruler, it starts from the cathedral square. Small boutiques, cafés, and flagship stores of famous brands and chains line the boulevard. The grand buildings lining it on both sides give it a wonderful flair. Gediminas Prospektas, Vilnius In the Old Town, I came across original small stores practically every time I turned a corner. Senamiescio Krautuve, for example, is a little mom-and-pop shop selling local groceries. It’s perfect for picking up souvenir gewgaws. www.senamiesciokrautuve.lt If you’re more into trendy: You’ll find the Vilnius hipster district behind the train station. Here the cafés and bars alternate with the studios of young designers. You may find yourself comparing the mood here with Zurich’s Kreis 4. The secret tip for lovers of good design is the UPTOWN MARKET in the LOFTAS a fabulous old factory used for staging concerts, parties, fashion shows and all sorts of trendy events – it advertises itself as “a space for people to go wild in.” Check it out at www.menufabrikas.lt UPTOWN MARKET provides young designers a venue for exhibiting and selling their mini-collections (clothes, accessories, jewelry, bric-a-brac, and pottery.) Besides the hip atmosphere, you can find some appealing things here. 2016 dates — UPTOWN MARKET 5.29.16 Sunday UPTOWN MARKET Baltic fashion 6.18.16 Saturday SMALL MARKET Baltic pride 6.26.16 Sunday UPTOWN MARKET Less expensive, more fashionable 7.21.-7.24.16 Thursday – Saturday UPTOWN MARKET By the sea side 9.2.+ 9.3.16 Friday/Saturday UPTOWN MARKET We love autumn 11.5.16 Saturday UPTOWN MARKET What’s next in fashion 12.20.-12.23.16 Tuesday – Saturday. LAST MINUTE MARKET UPTOWN MARKET ‘we ♥ spring’ 16.4.16 Vilnius UPTOWN MARKET ‘we ♥ spring’ 16.4.16 Vilnius Where to bed down Because I slept there, I can recommend the Comfort Hotel. It’s a modern hotel, not quite located in the center but easily reached on foot from Old Town. The train station hipster district is close by; also in easy walking distance is the UPTOWN Market and the LOFTAS. The airport is just a few minutes’ taxi ride away. The rooms are furnished simply but offer enough space and comfort. The hotel’s TIME restaurant is on the recommended list here. COMFORT HOTEL LT ROCK’N’ROLL VILNIUS – pretty damn good, I’d say. www.comforthotel.lt COMFORT HOTEL LT ROCK’N’ROLL VILNIUS – pretty damn good COMFORT HOTEL LT ROCK’N’ROLL VILNIUS – Zimmer & Restaurant TIME For the more luxuriously inclined, there is the Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square located direct on… Cathedral Square. The breakfast honey comes from the luxury hotel’s own beehive on its roof. Alternatively, in the heart of Old Town, you have choice of charming boutique hotels, the Narutis and the Shakespeare Boutique Hotel. Hotels can be booked directly on the Vilnius Tourism website or with us if you want to do comparison shopping. Golfing near Vilnius For golfers interested in stretching a Vilnius city trip with a stint on the golf course, the Vilnius Grand Resort north of Vilnius is to be recommended. 19 km from Vilnius 18-hole, par 72. www.vilniusgrandresort.com Other golf courses near Vilnius: European Centre Golf Club 26 km from Vilnius 18-hole, par 71 www.golfclub.lt Capitals Golf Club 47 km from Vilnius 18-hole, par 71 www.capitals.lt See all my Vilnius pictures in this Flickr-Album. Pictures of the “UPTOWN MARKET — We ♥ spring” are assembled in this Flickr-Album. I’m most grateful for the invitation for this unforgettable getaway Marketing & PR Manager Severine Isaac, Chairman of the Board Urs A. Pelizzoni and CEO Tobias Somandin of Germania Flug AG and, last but not least, Simon Benz of PrimCom. ## Trakai – a castle by the lake and peaceful nature Source: https://travelmemo.com/lithuania/trakai-castle-by-the-lake It only takes about a half hour’s drive from the Vilnius city center to reach Trakai and its fairytale water castle. The nature idyll starts shortly after merging onto the autobahn. The land is flat, the sky big, the forests reach as far as the eye can see. The clocks here still tick a little slower. Heading from Vilnius to Trakai Happy are those who own a weekend getaway here. Birch and pine forests go on forever, from time to time they open up on a lake and right in the midst of one called Lake Galvé there is the restored, imposing water castle. The pretty vacation homes around the lake shore serve as a picture-book backdrop for it. It’s a peaceful scene, but I can imagine that in the summer time it gets very busy here, with streams of tourists descending on this now-quiet spot. I’m glad I could experience this way. Trakai Tourist Information Centre www.trakai-visit.lt Lake Galvé, Trakai The Trakai water castle More pictures of Trakai, its water castle and Lake Galvé can be found in this Flickr-Album. The castle is also a museum and is open to the public. TonyResort On stepping out of the car after another fifteen minutes’ drive, I experience an intense moment of deceleration. I had some of the same feeling of instantaneous throttling down on stepping out of the float plane in the Maldives more than 10 years earlier. Here, now, I am surrounded by forest — no bears lurking, but they do have wolves — standing and admiring the popular, modern-rustic TonyResort whose architecture blends perfectly with the surrounding nature park. This place is blessed with quiet, fresh air, and calming greenery. I like it here. I’m bemused by the notion that I can simply let all that I experienced in two eventful days in Vilnius drop away here by the lake before flying home. Judging by the resort’s website, during high season it is no doubt a different story. But even then there has to be a quiet spot somewhere on the TonyResort’s 100 acres of grounds. Tony Resort Anupriškiu kaimas 2, Anupriškės, Trakai www.tonyresort.lt TonyResort in Trakai Check out more pictures of the TonyResort in Trakai in this Flickr-Album. Getting to Vilnius and Trakai Since June 2016, the newest Swiss airline Germania Flug AG operates two direct flights daily on Mondays and Thursdays from Zurich to Vilnius. Trakai and the TonyResort can be reached by rental car in a half hour’s drive. A taxi presumably would not cost an arm and a leg. There are also guided day trips to Trakai and bus connections from Vilnius. Check out all my Vilnius and Trakai photos in this Flickr-Album. My thanks for the invitation to this memorable flying visit go to Germania Marketing & PR Manager Severine Isaac, Chairman of the Board Urs A. Pelizzoni and CEO Tobias Somandin of Germania Flug AG and, last but not least, to Simon Benz with PrimCom. ## 10 laid-back things to do in Vilnius Source: https://travelmemo.com/lithuania/10-laid-back-things-to-do-vilnius Wander through the picturesque Old Town of Vilnius, let yourself be pulled along by the urban scene, take a break in a street cafe and watch the coming and going, then maybe visit a museum or one of the many churches. All this is pretty natural urban enjoyment, but there are some additional things that, in my opinion, are fun to do. And here they are: 1. Ride the cable car up Gediminas Hill Your reward: a wonderful view of the entire city from the old fortress tower on top. Gedimino Pilies Bokštas € 2.– 2. Rent a bike A fine way to cover a lot of ground exploring the city on your own. www.cyclocity.lt 3. Get a guided tour of Old Town This is the best way to get a terrific first impression and learn a lot of the city’s history. To name just one provider, Vilnius with locals offers a free tour in English that starts in front of city hall at 12 o’clock noon. For the fastest non-vehicular city tour, you athletic types can book a Running Tour. TourismInformation Center Vilnius offers traditional guided city tours, hop-on-hop-off buses as well as Segways for touring. 4. Ride on one of the “ostalgia-inducing” city buses Buy your ticket for € 1 (one-way) directly from the bus driver on these people movers harking back to Soviet days. 5. Poke around in the iki supermarket Discover unreadable product packaging, feel sorry (or not) for the live sturgeon confined in a narrow tank in the fish section and puzzle over the very familiar COOP fine food packages. Answer to the riddle: the COOP chain owns 20% of iki. 6. Take a (cheap) taxi ride Taxi rides are generally cheap, sometimes costing less than the price of a beer. But the fares can vary substantially. One time we paid € 2.for a 15-minute ride; for the return trip (same route) the next driver wanted € 5… 7. Launch a heart’s desire On the cathedral square, next to the bell tower, a tile is let into the ground with the word STEBUKLAS written on it. Turn three times about your own axis on it (but with eyes closed), concentrating on your heart’s desire while doing this, and your wish has every chance of coming true. 8. Have at least one shot of Trejos Devynerios (999) The herbal liqueur made from 27 different herbs is more than just a liqueur. People use it as a cure-all for colds and little ouches. “A shot a day keeps the doctor away,” goes the saying. Moreover, it is also supposed to have miraculous power. Once more, if you want something really badly, Lithuania is your place: invoke the god or goddess in charge (hence better brush up on your heathen pantheon), tip some of the schnapps from your glass on the ground behind you and then drink the rest in a single swig. Does it work? Only one way to find out…and if at first you don’t succeed, try, try again… 9. Take a break Recommended: Rest up on a bench in the Bernardinų sodas park that stretches to the bank of the River Vilnia from behind the cathedral and do some visitor-watching. There is also a little café and a small botanic garden in the park. 10. Lift off in a hot-air balloon Not being quite of a mind to get into a basket and have the ground disappear under it, I did not follow my own advice here, but I’m sure more daring types enjoy it. We saw a few hot air balloons drifting over Vilnius; it looked spectacular, and I imagine it can be a memorable adventure. Various operators available with Vilnius Tourism. Vilnius Tourist Information Center Tourist information is located in the airport lobby and in two locations in the central city, with one of them by city hall. www.vilnius-tourism.lt More tips on what to do in Lithuania can be found at hekla.com. All my pictures of Vilnius and Trakai (see my report on this historic city also on travelmemo.com) are available in this Flickr-Album. My thanks for the invitation to this memorable flying visit go to Germania Marketing & PR Manager Severine Isaac, Chairman of the Board Urs A. Pelizzoni and CEO Tobias Somandin of Germania Flug AG and, last but not least, to Simon Benz with PrimCom. ## Vilnius – Lithuania’s buoyant capital Source: https://travelmemo.com/lithuania/vilnius-capital “Wow! There really are many great, “under-discovered” spots in this world of ours.” That was the brief note I received from a friend after I had euphorically sent out a plethora of pictures that I had taken in Lithuania’s capital city. It’s a fact: Vilnius is still a well-guarded insider’s travel destination tip, an authentic, distinctive spot on the map with a long history and people who know how to enjoy life. Here the clocks seem to tick more reflectively somehow than in the rest of Europe and that sense helps make Vilnius the incredibly congenial city that it is. The historic Old Town The Vilnius Old Town is reputedly Eastern Europe’s largest and prized as a UNESCO Cultural Heritage that some call the Rome of the East because of its many churches. Many of them stand on unconsecrated ground, having been suppressed during the Soviet era and used for other things, but they are being renovated now at a good clip and reconsecrated. The baroque Old Town truly cast a spell on me. The steel-blue, clear sky like that which I have experienced only in the far north and the marvelously bracing clean air naturally just heightened the thrill. And so it turned out that I took home with me nearly a thousand photos of the Old Town’s bell towers, roofs, churches in the most varied architectural styles, street canyons, row houses huddled against each other and colorful this and that that caught my eye time and again. And even though I’m already at a loss how to pick a handful of the best ones from this pictorial treasure, I’m already thinking about taking more photos on a next visit to Vilnius! Statue of Gediminas, the founder of Trakai (another historic Lithuanian city and resort) and Vilnius; the most famous of ancient Lithuania’s rulers. The Vilnius university quarter Dominikonų gatvė, Žibintininkas/Lamplighter Šv. Jono gatvé St. Ann church – Šv. Onos bažnyčia, St. Bernard church – Bernardinų bažnyčia Vilniaus Dievo Gailestingumo šventovė, Stiklių gatvė, Mažasis pub’as, Dominikonų gatvé From Zurich to Vilnius direct by air Germania direct air connection Zurich–Vilnius. Urs A. Pelizzoni and Tobias Somandin of Germania Flug AG management The newest Swiss airline, Germania Flug AG, will operate two direct flights per week from Zurich to Lithuania’s capital starting in June 2016. Urs A. Pelizzoni, the airline’s chairman of the board, is sure of the city’s potential. And not least because they have a good sense of humor there, he is quick to add with a smile. That Urs and the airline’s CEO Tobias Somandin personally shepherded us journalists, bloggers and travel agents on this familiarization tour speaks volumes about their enthusiasm for the airline’s new destination. And let me be up front about it: like me, all of their fellow travelers were very much smitten by this heretofore neglected Eastern European beauty. As I noted earlier, beginning in June 2016, Germania will fly you to Vilnius every Monday and Thursday and will do so at unbelievably low fares. Getting a bit ahead of the story of our first trip to Vilnius: Agné Mažeikyté, responsible for Vilnius Airport public relations, put the brakes on my enthusiastic notion of making a repeat trip on the airline’s June inaugural flight for a longer stay this time in her city: “Hold off until July. We get much too much rain in June, and also the students will have left town by then. That’s when it gets beautiful. We picnic along the river or in the park and there are uncounted events and concerts in the city.” Lithuania’s honorary consul Bruno Kaspar with us on the tour also gave us good advice: take a trip to the sea shore. A three- and-a-half hour bus ride (he discourages taking the train) will take you from Vilnius to the Baltic shore. The Curonian Spit National Park located there is one of Lithuania’s best known venues, also with UNESCO World Heritage status. It gets crowded accordingly. However, he reveals that there are other places along the Baltic shore more off the beaten path and deserving of a visit. Dainius Kinderis, Lithuania’s well-known globetrotter, then expanded my horizons even more by proposing to either get me kayaking in the northeastern high country with its many lakes and few tourists or mushrooming in the country’s southeast, the area that he maintains is populated by the happiest Lithuanians and ideal for picking chanterelles and porcinis. I would presumably have to apologize to every single mushroom of whatever sort I pick, considering that in the past I was never quite sure what to make of “Lithuania” on the supermarket package’s label of origin. Starting this coming fall, I will gladly buy them without a second thought. And I would really also like to beat the drums for an import treaty to get Lithuanian potatoes here. Yes — truth be told, to the amusement of my fellow travelers, I lugged two kilos of the Soraya variety home to Zurich. Regrettably, they didn’t taste quite as good as the ones I had eaten earlier close to where they grow them. And this brings me to my favorite subject: the Vilnius food scene. Culinary Vilnius Fortunately, I did not have to find a good restaurant on my own that first evening. “You have a table reserved here” it said on the slip of paper our tour hosts handed us. To our amazement, for a mere 2 euros a taxi took four of us in just 12 minutes to DINE Restoranas. I have to confess to being a bit disoriented at first as we began our meal: were we really so fortunate as to have one of the city’s, if not the country’s, most innovative young chefs cooking for us? And what a treat it was! Restaurant DINE in Vilnius L: Root vegetable soup; R: herring on marinated red beets L: Yellowtail tuna; M: Baltic sturgeon; R: Australian beef Chocolate cake ‘Marseille’; Corn almond cake with crème brulée ice cream The next day I realized that every member of our group had only raves about their individual culinary experiences. Based on their recommendations, I can suggest the following restaurants; all received top reviews: Dine Gedimino per 35 Sweet Root Uzupio g.22 Dublis Traku g. 14 Time Comfort Hotel, Kauno g. 14 Ertlio Namas Sv. Juno g. 7 Lauro Lapas Pamenkalnio g. 24 A brief food glossary Kepta duona: garlic bread they serve with the beer Cepelinai: potato dumplings with ground meat filling Kibinai: meat-filled pastries, similar to empanadas or Cornish pasties Ruginė duona: rye bread Šaltibarščiai: beetroot soup with buttermilk Grybai: mushrooms in cream sauce Sakotis: traditional Lithuanian baumkuchen For down-to-earth Lithuanian fare in an inn with brewery pub feel and a medieval flair I recommend a visit to Alinė Leičiai. The house-brewed beers are highly recommended. We were served a matching beer with every course! Alinė Leičiai Stiklių g. 4 Restaurant Alinė Leičiai in Vilnius Traditional Lithuanian appetizers: onion rings,bacon, cheese, crackling and garlic bread L: Mushroom soup in bread; R: vegan main course L: Cepelinai – potato dumplings with ground meat filling; R: rabbit with potatoes Sakotis, Lithuanian-style baumkuchen with ice cream A similar pub on the same street, but a bit more touristic and folkloric and able to accommodate larger groups, is Lokys. Here we tasted for the first time Trejos Devynerios, the bitter Lithuanian liqueur (see 10 must things to do in Vilnius) before they served up the hearty food. Order beaver here as a main course – if you’re feeling brave… Lokys Stiklių str. 8 Cool bars “We Lithuanians are beer lovers. Anytime we get together with friends, we have beer and Kepta duona,” my Vilnius guru Agné Mažeikyté told me. Here are some hip bars on her recommended list: Šnekutis – a quaint alehouse, located at Šv. Stepono g. 8 Turgus where the locals meet up for an after-work beer, Pylimo g. 59 Peronas behind the train station with a view of the tracks. Very happening. Geležinkelio g. 6 Nighttime view of Vilnius from the Horinzontas Bar in the Hotel Crown Plaza Vilnius “Delivering” our colleagues at the Crown Plaza Hotel late in the evening, we did not miss having a nightcap with them in the Hotelbar «Horizontas». The roof-top view is enchanting (unlike the rest of the hotel). Vilnius doesn’t just do baroque – they have skyscrapers on the other side of the Neris River! the Europa Tower being the tallest. I think I’ll have a closer look during my next visit – in daylight this time ;-) … Note: the Radisson’s Skybar could well offer a similarly spectacular view. See all my Vilnius and Trakai pictures in this Flickr-Album. My thanks for the invitation to this unforgettable whistle-stop tour go to Marketing & PR Manager Severine Isaac, Chairman of the Board Urs A. Pelizzoni und CEO Tobias Somandin of Germania Flug AG as well as to Simon Benz of PrimCom. ## Love Home Swap House by Lovell and O’Connell Architects Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/love-home-swap-wanaka After a recent hike to Aspiring Hut we stayed in luxury at a Love Home Swap house in Wanaka with magnificent views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Check out this architecture award winner! I found Kate and Doug’s fabulous architecturally-designed, three-bathroom house a few months earlier on Love Home Swap, the international home swap site I joined a few years ago. Now the biggest home swap club in the world with 100,000 homes in 190 countries including 1500 in New Zealand, I seldom look elsewhere for accommodation these days. Kate and Doug’s son Tim Lovell designed the house along with his business partner Ana O’Connell from the Wellington-based firm Lovell and O’Connell Architects. The striking cedar-clad home was a finalist in the 2014 House of the Year Awards and won two architecture awards in 2015. It’s inspired by the lean-to miners’ huts of long ago, remnants of which can still be found in the district, hewn into the silvery schist rock with a sheet of corrugated iron for a roof. Wanaka Love Home Swap House© Photo by architect Tim Lovell The house nestles low into the landscape against a thick concrete retaining wall – an echo of the schist walls of the miners’ huts. The long, low wall runs the length of the property, inside and out, sheltering the house from northerly winds. It’s imprinted with the texture of the rough-sawn horizontal timber planks that were set into the concrete, and is punctuated with cut-outs where Doug’s herbs trail down from pots. The inverted L-shaped dark steel roof rises abruptly from the concrete base, providing privacy from the road above. A chunk has been taken from the structure between the garage and kitchen to form a sheltered entry courtyard that catches the morning sun. Another courtyard opens off the north-facing dining area tucked in under the peak of the steep roof. The view of the lake and necklace of mountains is breath-taking. View of Wanaka from the top of Mount Iron Mount Aspiring and Lake Wanaka from Millennium Walkway We bonded instantly with the lovely friendly home. Although it belonged to another family, it welcomed us with its warmth and liveability. We felt truly at home amid the artworks, family mementoes, first-edition book collection, grandfather clock and the wall of stunning photographs in the master bedroom. Such a vastly different experience from the bland, impersonal, sparsely-furnished motel and hotel rooms we have had the occasional misfortune to stay at. I’ve always regarded concrete as a cold surface but I completely revised my opinion after just a few hours at Doug and Kate’s cosy house. With deep eaves and double-glazed windows perfectly positioned to capture the warming rays of the winter sun but shield against the intense heat of the summer sun, the concrete floor and substantial retaining wall absorb solar heat during the day, releasing it at night. Combined with hot water pumped through a network of pipes embedded in the concrete floor powered by an air-to-water heat pump, the house was so warm, we were soon peeling off the layers of wool we were accustomed to wearing in Wanaka at that time of the year. The evening we arrived, watching an angry storm brewing at the far end of Lake Wanaka, we were wandering around the house in T-shirts. And that was even before we lit the gas fire recessed into the wall beside the large flat screen TV. My tramping boots liked basking by the fire . . . The interior decor was as warm to the eye as it was to the touch. I loved the smoothness of the polished concrete floors, the mellow glow of the plywood walls and cabinetry, the richness of the luxuriant carpet and rugs, the splashes of colour on the doors, kitchen cupboards, guest bathroom, outside cushions and the gorgeous glassware on a display shelf. The pieces reflected and refracted the sun’s rays, bringing rainbows into the house. The kitchen was a delight for my foodie husband who found every herb, spice, ingredient and utensil he needed for all the dishes he wanted to create. That’s another wonderful thing about home swapping. It’s OK to use a teaspoon of mustard, a leaf or two of basil, apples from the tree . . . and the bicycles in the garage. What’s cooking, Chris? Dining with friends at our Love Home Swap house in Wanaka I felt a little like Alice in Wonderland in the cleverly-designed house. I kept ‘falling’ into secret spaces and rooms. It took a while to discover the full potential of the house, sometimes by chance, leaning on a wall and finding that it opened. Anything with a potential messy factor, such as the office, pantry, laundry, cleaning cupboards and linen storage, was brilliantly concealed behind sliding or touch-open doors. The overall effect was one of peacefulness and lack of clutter because items that did not please the eye or detract from the serenity of the house were able to be spirited away out of sight. The arrangement with Kate and Doug involved points rather than an actual home swap. Points are a form of currency whereby Love Home Swap (LHS) members can earn tradable credits when they have other members to stay which they can then “spend” at LHS houses anywhere in the world, anytime that suits them. Gone are the days when you have to negotiate a simultaneous or non-simultaneous home swap. Kate and Doug earned 600 points or six nights for our stay which they are spending when they go to Sydney later in the year. It’s a clever improvement to the original home swap concept and opens up a vast realm of flexible options. We did hearty exercise every day, hiking up Mt Iron early in the morning to earn a delicious cheese or date scone at Fed Diner, walking the magnificent lake-edge Millennium Track from Glendu Bay to town past New Zealand’s most photographed tree, and cycling the poplar-lined outlet track on the banks of the mighty turquoise Clutha, one of the world’s swiftest rivers. The autumn colours were dazzling and the temperatures ideal for vigorous outdoor activity. April is a perfect time to visit the region after the intense heat and crowds of the summer have dissipated. The week ended with my usual dissertation about why we should up-stakes and move south, to the land of my birth . . . apart from how healthy we would become with all the exercise we do in Wanaka, we also sleep better and smile and laugh more often. The TBs are happy there too . . . mainly because their arch rivals the HHs (high heels) never get an outing. *Justine stayed at this Wanaka house. Visit www.lovehomeswap.com to view 100,000 properties in over 190 countries. *Justine flew Air New Zealand to Queenstown. *JUCY Rentals provided transport Collect your JUC-mobile from Queenstown or Christchurch Airports. Here it’s waving goodbye on our last day… JUC-mobile waving goodbye on our last day ## Justine’s tramping boots go AWOL Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/justines-tramping-boots-go-awol Justine Tyerman has trouble with her wayward tramping mates . . . I couldn’t find my TBs (tramping boots) when I got up early on the morning of our much-anticipated tramp to Mt Aspiring Hut. The night before they were right there beside my pack, hiking stick, wet weather gear and other tramping-phernalia. The front door was open, letting a blast of chilly autumn air into our cosy Wanaka house. I sprinted up to the gate and looked left and right – there they were, bolting down the footpath, making a strange yodelling sound, laces streaming out behind them. Knowing I would never catch them on foot, I grabbed a bike from the garage and hurtled off down the road after them with visions of having to hike up to the hut in my jandals. Given the high degree of excitement the TBs had been exhibiting over the past few weeks on our training tramps, the escapade was not entirely unexpected. I had taken the precaution of tying their laces to my pack but they were obviously in cahoots with their old mate who no doubt assisted in their escape bid. Cutting the runaways off before they reached the lake, I planted my feet firmly inside them, tied a double knot in their leather laces and had a few words with my headstrong friends. It’s been a long time between tramps and you know that patience has never been one of our virtues,” they said in their defence. We had to sit outside the door for a whole week while you swanned around in your high heels at that last poncey place we stayed at in Queenstown – it’s our turn now. We just can’t wait to feel that South Island schist and shingle beneath our soles. Once I had retrieved the TBs, we set out on the stunning 60-minute, 54km drive from Wanaka to the road end at Raspberry Creek. The road skirts Lake Wanaka, passing by famous Glendu Bay with postcard views of magnificent snow-capped Mt Aspiring and the wispy waterfalls of Treble Cone. Golden autumn poplar trees shimmered in the rumpled satin surface of the lake. Snow capped Mt Aspiring Poplar trees on Clutha River Fifty of us had travelled to Wanaka for a special celebration, the 60th birthday of twins we had known for 40 years or so. The venue for the party was a remote back country hut in the shadow of Aspiring, deep in the heart of Te Wahipounamu UNESCO World Heritage site, known to the original Maori inhabitants as “the greenstone waters”. After champagne and lunch by the foaming green, glacier-fed Matukituki River, we hoisted packs onto backs and headed up the sun-filled valley for two and a half hours to the picturesque stone Aspiring Hut. The TBs were in heaven, wading through crystal clear streams, negotiating a couple of steep bluffs, and accumulating a coating of mud and cow dung and a dusting of silver silt. They happily teamed up with Hampi, the Swiss husband of one of the twins who yodelled his way up the valley, talking about how much he felt at home in New Zealand, ‘the Switzerland of the South Pacific’. While we Kiwis walked with the aid of our Leki walking sticks, Hampi strode along with a traditional long wooden hiking pole all the way from his home village, Klosters. Birthday twins Rebecca and Victoria by Matukituki River© Photo by Tim Meehan Aspiring Hut© Photo by Tim Meehan Matukituki Valley hike to Aspiring Hut© Photo by Tim Meehan You learn a lot on a tramp. I also walked with Hugh who taught me how to spot trout in the river, Alice who gave me a yummy chicken recipe, Edward who told me all about mussel farming on Banks Peninsula, Angus who extended my wine education, and James who attracted the attention of the local doe population by doing stag impersonations. We celebrated the 60th by candlelight, feasting on Mt Cook salmon, beef cooked on a barbecue, and a delicious array of salads, desserts and birthday cake prepared by the birthday girls, their daughters and friends, and carted in by 4WDs. After speeches, we danced until our feet ached and slept overnight in sleeping bags in communal bunkrooms. For those who had never stayed at a solar-powered, back country hut without showers or hot water and just a wood burner for heating, it was a real education. They were awed by the experience. Some even decided to take up tramping. Matukituki Valley hike to Aspiring Hut© Photo by Tim Meehan Aspring Hut candlelight crabapples© Photo by Tim Meehan Birthday festivities in Aspiring Hut© Photo by Tim Meehan The TBs didn’t mind being outside that night with 50 other pairs of rugged footwear. The canopy of stars on the clear moonless night, far away from city lights, was utterly breath-taking. The next day after a hearty cooked breakfast and an efficient clean-up operation, we set off back down the valley as the weather closed in behind us, dusting the mountains with the first snow of the autumn. The rest of the week, we stayed in luxury at a home swap house in Wanaka with magnificent views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Check it out here! ## 6 things not to miss in South Tyrol’s Bolzano Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/bolzano-what-to-do South Tyrol’s provincial capital radiates a straightforward warm-heartedness. Italian “dolce vita” and German thoroughness go hand in hand here. You have the picture-perfect Old Town to explore; churches, castles, and museums await your visit. Here are six tips for activities (with Google map) that I enjoyed and think you might, too. 1. Pay a visit to Ötzi the Iceman The South Tyrol Archaeological Museum is said to be frequently mobbed, with long lines out the entrance. I lucked out, having the good sense to visit the impressive collection in the evening shortly before closing time. There were just few visitors, so I had plenty of room and enough time to take it all in, to marvel, and, for the high point of my visit, to meet Ötzi. I had no idea that so many artifacts had been recovered with him. The exhibit is a thrill for young and old. Quite unexpected was the scent experience upon entering the museum: the whole place is fragrant like a spa! SOUTH TYROL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM | Museumstrasse 43 | I-39100 Bolzano | www.iceman.it 2. Have a look in the MUSEION Alone the architecture of the MUSEION, a museum of modern and contemporary art, is worth a quick visit. The reflections in its glass facade and the mesmerizing play of interior, exterior, and through views on the uppermost floor invite camera play. üdtirol MUSEION | Piazza Piero Siena, 1 | I-39100 Bolzano | www.museion.it 3. Stroll under the arcades and adjacent lanes in the Old Town The houses huddled shoulder-to-shoulder with their trim arcades downright entice you to saunter past and under them. Beware, shopaholics: Not just the shoe stores and leather shops are seductive…! ARCADES | from City Hall to Obstplatz Square 4. Have dinner in the garden of Park Hotel Laurin The wonderfully luxurious ambiance of this grand hotel continues in Restaurant Laurin in the hotel’s park. A mere glance into the park was enough to make me dream of a balmy summer evening under the leaves. PARK HOTEL LAURIN | Laurin Strasse 4 | I-39100 Bolzano | www.laurin.it 5. Eat ice cream Gelato lovers have a choice of some very good addresses. Perhaps the best-known ice creams in both familiar and unusual flavors are the creations of Officina del Gelo Avalo. On any given day, you can have the varieties shown on lighted signs above the counter. The shop is located on the Italian-speaking side of town across the Talferbrücke (bridge). OFFICINA DEL GELO AVALO | Corso Libertà 44 | I-39100 Bolzano | www.officinadelgeloavalon.eu 6. Get a different vantage point Walk along the Talfer River, then wander along Oswald Promenade to Magdalena Hügel (hill) and reward yourself with a hearty snack in the Eberle Hotel. Or: Let yourself be lofted up to Oberbozen (Upper Bozen) in the Rittner Cable Car. Once up top, take in the majestic panorama of the Dolomites while you walk to the Hotel Bergfink. Here, I recommend enjoying a South Tyrolean apple strudel and a cappuccino on its terrace. Read about my apple strudel experience here. You can find all my South Tyrol pictures in this Flickr-Album. My sincere thanks to Elmar Premstaller and his team of Booking South Tyrol at www.bookingsouthtyrol.com and equally to Eva Ploner, Ulrike Platter und Elisa Casagrande with the daviso pr agency. Thank you for the invitation, the warm hospitality, and the many unforgettable moments. I can only say “ci vediamo!“* *”See you again!” My Google-Map with pointers: ## The blue aprons of South Tyrol’s Sarntal Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/sarntal-south-tyrol-blue-apron On our day excursion to the Sarntal Valley, these “blue apron” artisans welcomed us in their workshops and let us look over their shoulders. Wearing their emblematic blue aprons, third-generation quill embroiderers Ulrich Thaler and his brother George, helped by three employees, decorate leather with peacock feather quills split into thin strips. To name just one prominent product, they make the handsome costume belts that are an important part of the traditional Sarntal garb. In July, when peacocks shed their feather dress, farmers in the vicinity supply the brothers with the raw material needed for their enterprise. Skill and deft fingers plus a generous portion of patience are required for this craft. A single piece of embroidery can take as much as three months to complete. The leather is embroidered in artistic motifs with the fine peacock quill strips. When I ask how they manage to split the quills into these slender strips, I learn that…it is a closely guarded company secret. Ulrich Thaler also smiles when I ask what he feels when he handles an antique piece entrusted to them for renovation: pride and respect, he says. Each is one of a kind, hence impossible to duplicate ever again. He tells me about a request for a quote from a German luxury fashion brand for embroidered leather jackets. They could not come to an arrangement because of the size of the order: 10,000 pieces. It was simply too much for them… For me, it was reassuring to know that here they still measure success by quality and not quantity. Thaler Quill Embroidery | Rohrerstrasse 41 | I-39058 Sarnthein | www.federkielstickerei.com Next, the wood shavings flew expertly in the workshop of the Fritz Wood Turnery. The scent of Swiss pine, known and beloved by us Swiss as Arve, always gives me a homey feeling. Let me just get a whiff of wood, sap, and varnish, and right away I feel that I’m in good hands, as I was with my father in his carpentry workshop. Fritz Unterkalmsteiner here let us immerse ourselves in his world by turning genuine Sarntal pine plates and letting us burn a Sarntal traditional hat into them, more or less adeptly, by using a wood burner tool. A turned product made of Swiss pine marked with three grooves means that it originated in the Sarntal; two more grooves will tell you “made with pride here in the Fritz Wood Turnery.” Stools used at EXPO 2015 Milano came from the Fritz workshop. The shop clock, which runs backward, loses about two minutes per day. Well, and why not? Nothing wrong with reminding us to look at life from a different angle occasionally… The bacon that I took home is served in entirely authentic fashion on a Sarntal plate in this image. Fritz Wood Turnery | Steet 37/A | I-39058 Sarnthein | www.drechslerei-fritz.com Lastly, when we stepped into the Unterweger Handweaving workshop, Albert Unterweger also put on his blue apron before sitting down for us at his old loom and letting the shuttle fly through the warp threads. I was touched by the old carding machine that he told us his grandmother already had used to card the sheep’s wool. And the hand weaving was impressive in all respects; here, too, a premium is put on manual processes. All the sheep’s wool that they bring in is sorted and washed by hand. Each and every fleece is checked. If the wool sample does not make the proper whirring sound when gently strummed next to the ear, it means the sheep was sick and the wool is discarded. All weaving, it goes without saying, is done in house. And so we saw how woven and knitted products of the highest quality are created here the old-fashioned Sarntal way. Unterweger Handweaving| Steet 26/A | I-39058 Sarnthein | www.handweberei.it More than a decade ago, our Sarntal Valley artisans and others joined together to spread the word far beyond the valley about the centuries-old craft tradition and time-honored manufacturing techniques still practiced here. They created the Sarner Gschick (roughly “Sarn style”) brand for their wares — what an apt name! You can find out all about it here: www.sarner-gschick.com This Flickr-Album contains all my South Tyrol images. I want to thank all our craftsman entrepreneurs for an unforgettable day and for the time you spent showing us your work. Also warm thanks to Booking South Tyrol at www.bookingsouthtyrol.com for the invitation and, last but not least, to Eva Ploner, Ulrike Platter and Elisa Casagrande with daviso pr agency for the organization and personal support. ## Spring delights in Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/bolzano-spring-delight-south-tyrol Longing for spring and curious about where my ancestors came from, upon being opportunely invited by Booking South Tyrol www.bookingsouthtyrol.com, the independent online booking platform of the South Tyrol Hoteliers and Restaurant Owners Association (HGV), I head south to visit South Tyrol’s provincial capital Bolzano, the Sarntal (Sarn Valley), and St. Ulrich in the Grödental (Gröden Valley). During the train journey via Innsbruck, spring shows itself in the most varied aspects. In Glarus, its first tentative green shoots are on display, during the climb up the Arlberg mountain it is all grey, and once on top, shockingly it still hides under a coat of snow, and then, during the change of trains in Innsbruck, it makes me shiver in the wind-swept train station. On the next leg of my journey over the Brenner Pass into Italy, beige, ocher, grey, and slime green colors persist, here and there dotted with precocious forsythias of such a glaring gaudy yellow that “what drugs are they on?” flashes through my mind, bringing a smile with it. I literally crave green; the thought of apple blossoms is lodged in the back of my mind. The gray sky hemmed in by mountain massifs only heightens my yearning for expanses, brightness and blue skies. Finally, once we are over the Brenner, after Franzenfeste, the valley widens and there lies Brixen peaceably in a valley bottom. But it all disappears again as the train enters a tunnel and, deprived once again of a view, I truly feel as if I’m being stretched on the rack. Not a moment too soon, we pull into Bolzano. I get off the Trenitalia, cross through the train station and emerge from it, astonished, in a park beneath a glory of blooming magnolia blossoms. I fill my lungs with the mild scent of spring, and I do believe a joyous smile must have spread over my face. Made it! But I was on a tight schedule — barely time enough to stand and take it all in… Waiting for me in the Hotel Greif on Waltherplatz square was a generously-sized maisonette. This 33-room design hotel, ranked first among Bolzano’s best hotels for the past three years, is a true treat for the eyes. The blissful hospitality that this establishment has made its hallmark is genuinely convincing. The motto “very personal” can be sensed in its every nook and cranny. Happy as can be, I extended my stay spontaneously into Friday and, shedding all obligations, I savored two additional days there. GRIFONCINO, the hotel’s fine little bar, opens its doors to guests at 5 p.m. HOTEL GREIF | Waltherplatz | I-39100 Bolzano | www.greif.it Traveling anywhere in South Tyrol, expect to get your money’s worth food-wise. Let me only mention here: Tyrolean wine, Schlutzkrapfen (ravioli), Krautsalat (coleslaw), Striezl (plaited bread), Krapfen (doughnuts), Speckknödel (bacon dumplings), Schüttelbrot (flat bread), Apfelkuchen (apple cake) … I was impressed by the “South Tyrol Restaurant” initiative ( www.gasthaus.it ) that 32 traditional restaurants have joined to date. The idea is to revitalize historical restaurants with authentic, high quality and regional cuisine, and it won me over completely. Florian Patauner hosted us in his family-owned restaurant and conjured up a wonderful spring menu for our table. We accompanied it with a Sauvignon that you can drink only during asparagus season. Sublime! RESTAURANT PATAUNER | Bozener Strasse 6 | I-39018 Siebeneich-Terlan | www.restaurant-patauner.net Leaf through the online brochure for South Tyrol Restaurants I 2016 | 2017 to find all the necessary details on the various restaurants taking part in the initiative. During the two-day “official” blogger trip, thoughts of spring at times took a backseat to other priorities. Here you will find my reports on culture, customs, and here my report about artisan crafts in the Sarntal Valley. And here is a list of 6 things not to miss during your stay in Bolzano. But spring was never far out of mind, even if it was still mostly out of sight in St. Ulrich in Grödental where snow still covered the ground. Yet, even here, the first harbingers of spring were presenting themselves. Then, while on a Sunday walk, I was rewarded not only with an unexpectedly perfect view of the mountain scenery but also with the heady scent of wisteria. And then, bam, right there in my path, were my longed-for apple blossoms, swarmed already by humming bees feasting on the nectar. So, like a miracle, here it was! Spring under a dazzling blue sky! But inevitably came the time to say good-bye. Before starting my homeward journey, I reveled in one more perfect morning in Bolzano: First, I enjoyed to the fullest the delicious breakfast on the terrace of the Hotel Greif. This was followed by a stroll through the Old Town, admiring the bright, picture-perfect house facades along the way. I sipped a cappuccino on the piazza, wrote my last postcards (!) and watched the daily colorful doings of the sellers on the Obstmarkt market square. Unable to resist, I bought a kilo of fresh white Terlan asparagus. At one of the many deli butchers, I stocked up on South Tyrolean bacon and smoked sausages. And then I waited, barefoot and smiling, in the shoemaker’s shop for ten minutes as he glued the insoles in my new Italian shoes. Later, on the way to the train station I made the obligatory quick detour to the PUR Südtirol and there, in that paradise of regional bio-products, bought a few last-minute little presents. With bag and baggage, it was high time to be off to the train station, passing once more by the once opulent but, alas, already fading magnolias. Ciao Bolzano! All my South Tyrol images can be accessed in this Flickr-Album. My sincere thanks to Elmar Premstaller and his team at Booking South Tyrol www.bookingsouthtyrol.com and equally to Eva Ploner, Ulrike Platter und Elisa Casagrande with the daviso pr agency. Thank you for the invitation, the warm hospitality, and the many unforgettable moments. I can only say “ci vediamo!“* *”See you again!” ## Customs and cultural heritage in Sarntal’s Roherhaus Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/roherhaus-sarntal-cultural-heritage The Sarntal Valley’s ancient Roherhaus farmstead, parts of which date back to the 13th century, today functions as a museum. Our visit let us experience farming life, living tradition, crafts, joie de vivre and a contagious portion of sly humor! Maria Kröss entertained us in delightful fashion with amusing, mythical, and historical tales. We were introduced to the Sarn traditional costume in all its finer points. And the more time I whiled away in this cozy parlor, surrounded by these warm-hearted people, the better and more content I felt. If only I could have stayed longer! The feeling was one of being right at home — as if visiting with relatives. The German spoken by South Tyroleans comes from deep in the throat with many a “ch” and reminds me of Swiss German. Some of the dialect’s words and phrases also recall German Swiss expressions. When Sarntalers switch to speaking Italian — the official language — it has a sharper edge to it than in the country’s more southerly reaches. A rolling “r,” normally absent from Italian, helps give the South Tyrolean version a unique characteristic sound. Here in the museum we also encountered the pipe (“Reggele” in Sarntal dialect) and cutlery maker Peter Ainhauser. He let us try our hand at his craft that has been handed down for generations. He taught himself the ancient metal, horn, and leather working techniques. The filigrees he incorporates by hand in knife and flatware handles as well as knife sheaths witness to his incredible dexterity. Each of the inlaid mystical signs is designed to protect the implement’s owner in a specific way. The farm women of Ollerhond Selbergmochts (roughly “all sorts of homemade cooking”) served us a delicious lunch. These down-to-earth women have not let the success of their catering enterprise go to their heads. As they let on with becomingly modest smiles, RAI, Italy’s national TV channel at one point had even flown them to Rome to display their traditional culinary skills on a cooking show. Rohrerhaus | Runggenerstrasse 10 | I-39058 Sarnthein | www.rohrerhaus.it Some of my ancestors come from South Tyrol, and so I somehow feel personally connected to these traditions so deeply rooted in the valley’s soil. On the information plaque in front of the Roherhaus I read: He who knows where he is rooted can give wings to his thought, words, and works. E. Ferste And suddenly I realize that even those who have left the Sarntal Valley to disperse into the wide world still know where home truly is. You can see all my pictures from South Tyrol in this Flickr-Album. I want to take this opportunity to warmly thank the management of the Rohrerhaus Society, the Sarntal Tourism Association, the traditional costume couple, and the women of Ollerhond Selbergmochts for all the insights they provided me into their living traditions. I also want to thank Booking South Tyrol at www.bookingsouthtyrol.com and, last but not least, Eva Ploner, Ulrike Platter and Elisa Casagrande with daviso pr agency for the organization and personal support. ## Hotel Tres: An oasis in central Palma de Mallorca Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/mallorca/hotel-tres-palma-de-mallorca I travel frequently to Palma de Mallorca, typically spending two or three days a month on the island. And when I overnight in the capital, I prefer the attractive four-star design Hotel Tres. From day one of my first stay there, it has felt like I was coming home. Entry to the Hotel Tres Whether you are on your own or traveling as a twosome, everything clicks here: top location, top rooms, and top staff. The guys and dolls of Hotel Tres will go the extra mile for you. And they do so in a genuinely helpful and friendly manner. A friendly reception courtesy of Dimas By now, I’ve developed a Tres arrival ritual: Following the familiar arrival chit-chat with Hauke or Dimas at the front desk, I take to my room where I know a delightful bottle of Cava on ice and wrapped in a white fabric napkin will be waiting for me. And then, rather than dealing with my carry-on bag, I head for the peaceful patio with its play of water and light and giant palm tree to chill out in a lounge chair with welcome drink in hand. The patio connects the 16th century city palace and the 1950s building housing the hotel to form a harmonious oasis in the heart of Palma’s Old Town. Or, when I arrive too late in the evening, I might instead just order a delicious hamburger with hand-cut fries from room service. I’ll eat it in bed then while watching TV and without a single dribble! That’s because every room is equipped with these sensational bed rollover tables – it’s like eating at a table while relaxing in bed. Hotel Tres features 41 bright rooms and suites furnished in Scandinavian designer style – hotel manager Svenn Rudow hails from Norway – and with a sexy touch throughout: the pictures on the walls bare a great deal of skin but all of it is presented with cool stylish restraint. This lifestyle boutique hotel’s roof terrace is another attraction that exerts a magic draw with its view of Palma rooftops shimmering in the most varied terracotta hues, of expansive courtyards and quaint balconies with their laundry lines or herb planters. Also unique is the roof terrace’s small pool from which you have a spectacular view of Palma’s sublime cathedral. Poolside is the perfect way to relax on returning from an exhaustive stroll through the town. Ready for a bite to eat or a cool libation to quench the thirst you built up? Just pick up the phone to order it! In the winter time, instead of jumping into the pool you can simply hop into the sauna. And should you not want to skip your workout during your urban stay, then the Tres personal trainer can make you sweat right here high above Palma’s rooftops. © Hotel Tres Tres is in one of Palma’s best locations — from here everything that’s worth seeing is within at most an easy ten-minute walk: the cathedral, the seaside promenade, the yacht harbor, trendy bars and delicious tapas restaurants or local temples of gourmandise. And the renowned shopping malls are practically at your doorstep. Here, too, the Tres offers an in-house special service: a personal shopper who will make sure that nothing escapes you to which you take a fancy. Despite the amenities and specials, the Hotel Tres is anything but a tricked-out temple of the fancy-schmancy. Its value proposition is simply this: friendliness with style in the best location at a fair price. This is what keeps me coming back. ## George Bar & Grill – feasting with food bloggers Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/george-bar-grill-food-bloggers Recently, local.ch extended invitations for a meet-and-eat of food bloggers at George Bar & Grill in Zurich, Switzerland. Since a good meal also falls into the “lifestyle” category, the renowned food bloggers from Harry’s Ding and Das Filet were joined by a few fashion and lifestyle bloggers. Personally, having up to that point only socialized at similar events for travel bloggers, I was stoked about the new mix… We started the evening at Max Chocolatier where it went down in a richly exotic fashion and where it was all about one thing: how to drive lovers of fine chocolate absolutely nuts… But before we got to the main act of the evening, I had a chance to share 14 tips for food photography, that at best will probably just be enough to make foodporn snapshots turn out better. After that, we charged through some fairly stiff wind and weather into the elegant George Bar & Grill Restaurant, professionally ranked an exultant third in the “Trend” category by Best of Swiss Gastro Award 2016. For the opening round of drinks, our blogger group was arrayed at bar tables next to the powerfully-voiced female pianist. They practically let us mix our own “Winter George” made of Cointreau, Amaretto, orange juice and a dusting of nutmeg — stylishly, from George Bar & Grill’s house hip flasks… George Bar & Grill hip flasks The interlude at the bar would be the starting gun for what would turn into a veritable photo orgy. When in the company of peers, bloggers will apparently mutate into camera freaks: all evening long, we shot, hash-tagged, instagrammed and snapchatted like there was no tomorrow. Katja in fact always feels a little uneasy when I haul out my piece of Canon 7D camera furniture to photograph our food (at least I never use flash!). But this evening, there were no such scruples! Some of the bloggers even hefted flood lights to achieve slick lighting effects. For want of better, we also lit things up for each other with our smartphones. Pure insanity ;-) Bloggers Sylwina and David at “work” Next, we took our places at a large dining table set slightly apart. A large glass pane screened us off acoustically from the rest of the establishment but without isolating us and still letting the other guests view the peculiar table etiquette of food and life style bloggers… For as soon as the mouth-watering grilled food is on the table, do food bloggers reach for knife and fork? No – its smartphones and floodlights first. It’s all for the sake of passion and glory, because only a tiny number of bloggers actually manage to make a living from their blog. Bone-in rib eye and tenderloin of Black Angus beef with split jumbo shrimp Fitting photos of the evening were also published by Christina of New in Zurich, by Sylwina of her eponymous blog and by Darya of Swissglam. In sum, it was interesting to hobnob with bloggers who have other style orientations. We had previously heard from other bloggers that it is much more relaxed in travel blogger circles than among the highly competitive (and jealous) lifestyle and fashion bloggers. But our evening was relaxing, and in the future we’re also going to holster a flood light. Just in case the ambient light is overly dim. Address: George Grill & Bar Sihlstrasse 50 8001 Zürich +41 44 444 50 60 Blogger outreach by local.ch The invite for the event came from local.ch (where I work as Head of Product). Since some 30% of search queries on their information portal relate to restaurants, the subject is highly relevant for them. After all, with Localina they offer their own restaurant booking platform and with Local Flavors they also publish their own foodie magazine. The related Instagram account is instagram.com/localgastro. The event was perfectly organized thanks to the combined efforts of Harry and Carrie of Harrysding.ch. And, our host Robin explained to us not only why the restaurant is fully booked every evening, he also showed us the fridge in which his restaurant’s “heart” is constantly aging… Robin Knobel, manager (acting) of George Bar & Grill and his head chef ## Max Chocolatier – pralines to love Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/max-chocolatier-zurich Are you up for once again falling head over heels for some sweet little thing? All it took for us was a visit to Max Chocolatier in Zurich to fall for… those little pralines! Max Chocolatier is a chocolate maker based in Lucerne with an offshoot at Schlüsselgasse 12 in Zurich’s Altstad (Old Town). Step inside, and you instantly know that here it is all about one thing: driving devotees of great chocolate mad. Pralines by Max Chocolatier If you want to take your taste buds to the edge, you’ve come to the right address and sales/marketing manager Claudia Wiedergrün to introduce you to the just-arrived spring collection. To name just one temptation among many that we encountered: it combined sub-tropical lychee jelly with spicy Thai chili. The really hot one… But before you get a chance to blush bashfully with your head on fire, a smooth Edelweiss chocolate soothes the palate and the soul. Wow, that was close… The distaff bloggers from Swiss Glam, Life of an It-girl, I am Metal Heart, Franziska Freiermuth and Nadja Mathis were also blown away by the new spring assortment! You’ll find their photos on Instagram under #localgastro. Exotic chocolate blends Other pralines in the assortment come when called by their simple but alluring names, like Java 64% or Crudo 70% or wanderlust-inducing Elvesia 74% from the Dominican Republic. No surprise here if the latter convinces the palate with notes of black tea and tobacco. Other delights insist on peanut, amaretto, champagne, port, wild rose and hibiscus, pine nuts or pistachios. Or perhaps even mandarin orange and saffron. Like it says, pralines to fall in love with! Alongside those fine pralines, a delicious walnut kugelhopf by Max Chocolatier A riverbank resort on the Mekong But, hey, why try to describe chocolate in detail? It’s like trying to explain love. My recommendation is, go there, taste test, and prepare to be smitten! To paraphrase a certain wise character by the name of Forrest Gump: life is like a chocolate box – you never know what you gonna get. Blogger event by local.ch What brought us to Max Chocolatier was a food blogger event organized by local.ch For the occasion, I took the liberty of sharing a few practical tips for photographing food. I put together these 14 photo tips for food bloggers that at best may even help turn out better snapshots. Click here for my 14 tips for attractive food photos! ## Visit Venice in February? Really? Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/venice-citytrip-february In our Swiss latitudes, February would be ideal for a stay in our snowed-in mountains. But for his impending 50th birthday, Walter wanted to be in Venice. February in Venice? Really? ## 14 photo tips for food bloggers Source: https://travelmemo.com/photograph/14-photo-tips-for-food-bloggers If you are an aspiring food blogger, you’ll find answers here to photography basics you need to get started: the different types of food photography, color management, proportions, i.e. Rule of Thirds and depth of field, and much more. About proportions: The Golden Cut Or where does the Rule of Thirds come from? Proportions are a key element in photography and the arts, like painting and sculpture, and in architecture. They create relationships between pictured objects and display them to greatest advantage. Best of all is when the proportions create tension between objects, with the edge or the background. But how to achieve this tension? This is where a particular kind of ratio enters the picture. In the design context, a ratio is the relationship between two values, e.g., 1:2 (mind you, 1 part and 2 parts add to 3, see the Rule of Thirds coming?). There is a ratio in nature that occurs particularly often: 1:1.618033. It seems to be an odd and accidental value. But if we analyze different natural forms mathematically, we very quickly come up with the number series 1 – 1 – 2 – 3 – 5 – 8 – 13 and so on. This is called the Fibonacci series, after the mathematician of the same name. You arrive at it by adding two numbers in the series to get the next value. What proportion hides in this number series? Golden proportions of the Fibonacci numbers The higher the values, for example, 3:5 or 5:8, the closer the ratio approaches 1.618033 better known as the Golden Cut, Divine Proportion, or Golden Ratio! We recognize this value as “naturally beautiful” because it is omnipresent in nature and our eye is used to seeing it. This is why it’s always better when buying flowers, for instance, to buy an odd number, say 3 or 5. When they fall in opposite directions in the vase, they will always do so in a relationship like 1 to 2 or 2 to 3, like in this example and so they look “naturally” beautiful to us ;-) Glad to be of service, guys! You can thank me later. Symmetry is also beautiful, as reflected in a 1:1 relationship, for example, but which is not particularly exciting. Ratios of 2:3 or 3:5 create more powerful tension between objects, a visual relationship that appeals to the eye. Or to keep things simple, comply to the Rule of Thirds by respecting a 1:2 relationship. That’s a pretty good proxy already for attractive proportions. And just what does that have to do with my photo shoots? First, it means that only rarely should you put people or objects in the center of a photo. It will probably result in a boring image. Better to position the subject to the right or left of the center, keeping the foreground or background in mind, and this way you will create that famous tension between the spaces to the left and right of the subject. You can see how the same principle would apply in food photography: keep the subject out of the middle, but preferably to one side in a ratio of 1:2. This is why many smartphone photo apps have two vertical and horizontal lines in the viewfinder: they put them there to help the user arrange objects precisely in a ratio of 1:2. This actually applies to both width and height. Food photo camera angles In food photography, there are two main angles to shoot from: “flat lay” or overhead shot and “spatial perspective” at roughly 30 to 45 degrees. The former means you photograph plates and dishes from directly above, the latter, from the side. So far as I can tell, which of them you choose is a matter of individual preference. It is simply a matter of taste. In any case, with a flat lay just make sure not to frame the dish right in the middle — unless how the food is arranged on the plate creates the requisite tension for an attractive shot. And when it comes to perspective, there is still a whole lot more to watch out for… And here they are: 14 tips and related design principles for food bloggers 1. Use flat lay with clipped plates to help distinguish proportions The proportions of round picture elements will be more obvious to the eye when you clip them so part of them is out of the picture frame. Creating tension between round objects is difficult because the irregular shapes between them are not easy for the eye to grasp. Basic geometric shapes are easier to recognize. This composition by Charlotte Meyer plays expertly with soft sidelight and the tension between the main motif and the out-of-focus “eye catchers” on the edge. The eyes tensely jump from one to the other and back again. © Charlotte Meyer of Chef’s Handyman 2. Use flat lay with soft sidelight The soft sidelight in this photo produces various shadow nuances. For publication in the business magazine Bilanz, the picture was suitably cropped, similar to Charlotte’s shot above. © Fabian Häfeli of fabianhaefeli.ch 3. Make creative use of reflection Reflections from lights or candles can enhance a composition. In “beautiful” restaurant lighting, you next need to pay attention to the photo’s color temperature: a yellow cast is almost foreordained. It is easily corrected with photo editing software like Adobe Lightroom. My own photograph suffers from a yellow cast and off rotation In Lightroom the image can also be rotated slightly if the orientation is off – as for tilted glasses. You can also dim “highlights” like candles or spotlights so that they don’t jump out of the picture. Image editing made easy in Adobe Lightroom Do this by moving the slider for white a bit higher; the plates will look whiter and the food will stand out more. Here, the overall yellow cast is easy to see in the unretouched photo in the gallery. 4. Use lower aperture setting for better depth of field Depth of field is controlled with aperture: a deep aperture number like 3.5 equals a big aperture, i.e. a large lens opening. This will reduce the depth of field. Small apertures like 16 or 18 will increase the depth of field. As the next photo shows, setting too large an aperture will reduce what will be recognizable in the photo. The newest generation smartphones simulate this effect with software. In the viewfinder, you let the phone mark the spot you want in sharp focus; the rest of the image will stay slightly out of focus. Too small depth of field and yellow cast 5. Capture motion at the plate (video allowed!) Have your camera at the ready to capture “action” on the plate… (if need be also with video). Have your video option ready if a dish lends itself for moving impressions 6. Shoot two plates if you got ’em When eating in good company, the second plate can figure as another element in the composition. Make sure that the other people don’t distract from the picture. © Walter Schärer 7. Use diagonals for dynamic picture compositions Photos that contain diagonal elements often look more lively. Christian Geisler of the Kunsthof in Uznach, Switzerland Commercial kitchens like Christian Geisler’s in the Kunsthof in Uznach, Switzerland generally are relatively well-lit, yet photography with external flash apparatus is always recommended. The chefs are almost constantly moving about while at work – unlike their food, which should be photographed always without direct flash (or it seldom will turn out well.) 8. Pay attention to obvious proportions and tension Although the following photo tries to make use of diagonal elements for dynamic effect, it places the main subject too much in the middle. The proportions go out the window as a result and hence the image’s power. Not to mention the yellow cast ;-) Bad proportions despite the diagonal – a strong yellow cast… 9. Develop your own visual style Over time, the devoted and demanding photographer will want to develop her or his own visual style. I’ve lately tried it with “eye catchers,” i.e., objects that actually distract but in so doing lead the eye to the object you want to call to the beholder’s attention. Eye catchers distract, yet lead the eye to the described object 10. Show up early in the restaurant As a food blogger, it pays for you to show up early in restaurants. It lets you do location shots before running the risk of copyright or privacy infringement with other guests present in the establishment. I recommend without qualification: never photograph other guests. It could also get the restaurant into copyright hot water… Stylish restaurant design in the Oitavos hotel, Portugal Table setting in the Mercedes Museum’ Star Nights event in Stuttgart, Germany 11. Focus attention with a vignette Depending on the subject, a vignette can be a suitable styling tool for putting focus on the center of a picture. It consists of reducing an image’s brightness or saturation around its edges compared to its middle to create a continuous, slightly dark border. Restaurant “Casual” of Hotel Stue in Berlin, Germany 12.Use a color palette that suits the subject The photo’s color scheme can enhance the pictured food, brown coffee in this example. © Nicolas Glauser of travelita.ch 13. Tell stories A photo can also reinforce the story you want to tell: in the following example, an article is titled “Not Tex-Mex.” And that’s exactly what the photo is about, says the kind reader and, curiosity piqued, goes on reading. © Harry H. Meier of Harrys Ding My advice is, in principle, be generous with storytelling: a terse description of a restaurant and food on offer can make for boring reading. Story telling methods allow building an arc of suspense that enlivens the story just as it does photos. Here is an example of how storytelling consultant Joel Blom pepped up the About Us page of our own travel blog. To summarize, the food blogger intent on good photos pays attention to: Proportions in the Golden Cut or Rule of Thirds Coloration Light direction Fore- and background Supporting objects Full or partial illustration Spatial perspective vs. flat lay White balance Depth of field And good food, it goes without saying ;-) But 13 tips still aren’t 14. Hence, here is one more little trick: 14. Bonus tip for better pictures and SEO: food bloggers, shoot the menu! Relevant keywords will boost search engine optimization (SEO). But photos can also be given names that describe their content. That makes it easier for search engines to display the relevant photos if someone is searching on pictures in Google or Bing. So that you will remember what it was you supped on later when editing your images, it pays to photograph the menu! Thanks to food bloggers and/or photographers Charlotte, Fabian, Nicolas and Anita, and Harry for making their photos available! Bon appétit, mes amis! ## Living on the edge in a Luxe House Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/jagged-edge-luxe-house Justine Tyerman stayed at Luxe Houses’ New Zealand flagship property, the spectacular Jagged Edge near Queenstown… My fingers trace the pale quartz veins snaking through the silver grey schist. The rough texture is a radical contrast to the sleek gleaming glass and steel beyond the tall opaque door. It’s slightly musty, softly lit and a cool 13 degrees C in the cave, a respite from the dazzling heat of the Central Otago summer sun. Twin eagles stand sentinel at the stacked stone entranceway, guarding bottles of wine from all over the world, lying in an orderly fashion on wooden racks either side of me. The polished concrete floor feels smooth under my bare feet and there’s a light dusting of silver powder on my toes from the schist. It reminds me of childhood holidays in nearby Arrowtown when we would come home covered in fine silt at the end of a long day of building rock dams on the river. The cave with schist and wood© Luxe Houses I marvel at the construction of this wine cave, chiselled deep into the mountain behind Luxe Houses’ Jagged Edge near Queenstown, our home for the week. In fact, the whole property is an astonishing feat of design and engineering. One of the owners and designers, mechanical engineer Julian McPike tells me 8000 cubic metres of rock were excavated to form a platform to build the house so a few extra metres tunnelling into the cliff to create the wine cellar was a minor task by comparison. Secured from above by 10 steel bars connected to anchors drilled 20 metres into the rock, the house appears to hang from the schist cliff like the prow of a ship stranded high above the turquoise-green waters of Lake Wakatipu. © Luxe Houses The sharp triangular form, with two walls embedded in the schist base rock, challenges every rule of plumb. The towering glass walls jut out from the base at an 18-degree angle soaring to a lofty 9.2 metres at the apex of the triangle. Floor-to-ceiling steel rods and heavy-duty triangular bolts hold the glass wall panels in place. Side-on, the structure is so transparent, it is almost invisible. You can see through it which allows it to blend into the surrounding mountains, lake and forest. It’s a house of light, reflections and space. The interior design is open plan and the décor deliberately understated. There’s no need for man-made adornments when the massive glass walls and windows bring nature’s ever-changing masterpieces right inside the house – the iconic, craggy saw-teeth of the Remarkables dominate the landscape rising perpendicularly from Lake Wakatipu, while a trio of lesser-known mountains, broad Cecil, tall Walter and rotund Nicholas, stand at a deferential distance. Nowhere are you safe from breath-taking panoramas, least of all in the three sumptuous bedrooms on the mezzanine floor suspended from the ceiling above the living area. Electric blinds descend from somewhere in the ceiling to cover the glass walls at night but I could not bear to shut out the grandeur of the mountains and lake. And at the touch of a button, panels emerge from their hiding places and float across the edge of the mezzanine, joining forces to form a solid partition, transforming the sunlit, airy bedrooms into cosy boudoirs. To escape the views, you need to take refuge in the wine cave, dressing rooms or the downstairs powder room. Even the freestanding Victoria and Albert bathtub in the vast, white porcelain-tiled master ensuite has a stunning vista of the Remarkables. And I could see the lake from the glass-walled, walk-in double shower that runs the full length of the bathroom. We arrived at the Jagged Edge in time to witness a spectacular light show just before sunset when the glass wall panels become giant mirrors, reflecting multiple images of the mountains, lake and cloud formations. Immersed in the 38-degree warmth of the infinity spa pool (at 5 metres by 6 metres, it’s more a swimming pool than a hot tub) with a glass of champagne in hand, I was mesmerised by the dart-shaped point of the roof above me and the many versions of Mt. Nicholas projected below it. My husband Chris said I was not, under any circumstances, to take the camera into the spa, especially not with a glass of bubbly in one hand… but how else was I to get the photos from the far side of the pool? It’s fair to say I became obsessed with capturing every aspect of the place on-camera… as if to affirm its very existence. Much later when my family finally extracted me from the water, I activated the pool cover function from the keypad by the door. The water level lowered itself by 170mm and the cover slid quietly across the pool from beneath the decking. Recessing the pool cover in such a way protected it from wind gusts, said Julian who designed the mechanism. The pool, accessed through a steel-framed glass portal at the front of the house, is fully childproof, of course, with safety glass barriers and a gate. The water temperature can be controlled remotely from anywhere in the world. Heaven on earth for foodies and techies Another slightly James Bond-esque feature of the Jagged Edge is the 3.7 metre long sickle-shaped bar. Camouflaged as a piece of timber flooring, the structure rises slowly out of the floor, complete with lights and stools – also designed by Julian who has a flair for the unusual. It was a favourite place for our young ones, perching on the bar stools, ordering cocktails and masquerading as celebrities. The foodies in the family were in heaven in the superbly well-equipped, gleaming black and white galley kitchen. Located at the rear of the house, it has a full view of the mountains, thanks to the height of the roof at the apex of the triangle. The Luxe Houses concierge offered to arrange a chef and waiters to look after us but our family love nothing better than to cook together. There was plenty of space at the four-metre white Corian island for all the would-be master-chefs, and the two full-sized dishwashers and the huge electric oven with five Miele gas hobs got a thorough work-out. The coffee lovers were also deliriously happy with the top-of-the-line built-in Miele coffee machine and stand-alone Nespresso with a wide selection of capsules. The ‘techies’ were in a nirvana of their own too with a 103-inch wall-mounted television, state-of-the-art Sonos sound system and a myriad of fascinating functions operated from a couple of iPads. Their eyes lit up when they spied a cupboard stacked high with humming black boxes, winking red lights and many dials. A master switch at the front door turns on all the lights when you arrive and turns them all off as you leave, saving time and electricity. To save even more energy, smart technology allows the house to be switched to unoccupied mode when empty. Chris managed to become an accomplished concert pianist overnight after mastering the art of mime while seated at the Yamaha grand piano which could be programmed to play all manner of impressive pieces. An old friend was astonished to find that he had become a virtuoso since they had last seen each other. One of few man-made adornments in a house dominated by the majesty of the landscape, is an eye-catching mosaic head from Mexico lit from within. Another is an imposing glass sculpture of a kiwi bird in the stairwell designed by New Zealander Peter Stoneham. With its acres of pale knotless timber flooring, the overall effect is one of understated elegance and clean, uncluttered lines. It’s a luxurious, restful place devoid of fussy detail and decoration. The owners have wisely allowed nature to take centre stage. The days slipped by in a haze of self-indulgence starting with a workout at the nearby guest house gym and some laps in the heated pool, followed by brunch on the balcony with jaw-dropping views of the mountains and lake, and walking or biking along the lakeside path below us in the afternoon… If we could prise ourselves away from our idyllic hillside hideaway with its 270-degree panorama. At $10,000 a night, the three-bedroom, four-bathroom Jagged Edge is among New Zealand’s most expensive and exclusive private holiday accommodation, and is now available for rent through Luxe Houses. The guest house If your numbers exceed six people, just a short stroll away down a pretty pebbled path is an equally palatial five-bedroom, six-bathroom guest house with a heated swimming pool, spa pool, sauna, gym, kitchen, an expansive living area with huge wrap-around deckings and the same jaw-dropping view as the mother ship up the hill. For an extra $5,000 a night, you have accommodation for 16 altogether. The Guest House © Luxe Houses © Luxe Houses © Luxe Houses © Luxe Houses Privacy, security and solitude assured! Once installed at the Jagged Edge and guest house, your privacy, security and solitude are assured. You need not see another soul until you check out apart, from your dedicated VIP concierge who will arrange anything and everything for you. Services (at an additional cost) tap into Luxe Houses’ extensive, highly-respected network of professionals who specialise in ensuring your stay is flawless. On the menu are private charter jets, helicopter transfers, yachts, launches and jet-boats, celebrity private chefs, waiters, butlers, drivers, bespoke spa treatments, experienced nannies, guides, ski instructors and personal trainers. Should you wish to venture beyond the Jagged Edge, the adventure capital of the world, is on your doorstep… Queenstown is the home of the world-famous Shotover River Jets, Dart River Jets and Funyaks, Revolution Tours’ Paradise cycle tours, Coronet Peak and the Remarkables Ski-fields, the Routeburn and Hollyford Tracks, heli-skiing and snowshoeing, jetboating, hiking, bungy jumping, sky diving, canyon swinging, rafting, fly fishing and scenic flights to Milford Sound. Queenstown has a myriad of excellent restaurants and boutiques, and there’s even a casino. Just 10 minutes from Queenstown, New Zealand’s premier all-seasons tourist resort, the Jagged Edge is private, secluded, secure and only 20 minutes’ drive or five minutes’ heli-transfer from Queenstown International Airport. You can be there in under three hours direct from Sydney… or a mere 24 hours from London. The Jagged Edge is Luxe Houses’ flag ship New Zealand property but CEO Jessica Kirkpatrick has secured the keys to many other opulent villas, super yachts and private jets around the world. For example, in Sydney, my childhood fantasy came true at Luxe Houses’ palatial harbourside apartment. And here’s my next destination: AQUA – I think it has potential! Factbox: Air New Zealand flies to Queenstown direct from Christchurch, Auckland, Wellington, Sydney and Melbourne and code-shares with Virgin Australia’s services between Queenstown and Brisbane. Jucy Rentals assisted with transport. Justine Tyerman was a guest of Luxe Houses at the Jagged Edge. ## The Capra – all prissy or what? Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/the-capra-hotel-saas-fee The German word “Ziege” meaning “goat” in that language can shade into negative connotations, as in “dumme Geiss”, which means “silly goat” (or worse). From there it is not much of a leap to “Zicke,” in American English a “priss” — an uptight person. However, in Italian the word for goat is “capra” and the sound alone is charming. Then calling something “The Capra” is high English style, and this is what happened with a new boutique hotel in the village of Saas-Fee named – The Capra. Alone the daring choice of moniker was reason enough for us to make the trip to Wallis Canton (Valais)…. But just how do you come up with a hotel name like “The Goat”? The Capra Hotel The Capra Hotel in the heart of Saas-Fee in the Swiss Alps was opened a year ago by a couple of English friends. It was a “soft opening” and they used the ensuing year to tinker with the construction and business operations until the hotel had its official grand opening in December 2015 under hotel director Raphael Herzog and assistant director Claudia Schibler. Hotel director Raphael Herzog The English were so taken with the plucky black-and-white Wallis mountain goats that they had the name for their little luxury oasis in no time at all. And this is how you encounter the goat again in the 14 generously appointed suites: You very well may use the light switch of turn the red “Please do not disturb” light on, but you can also be really authentic and hang a small wooden goat on the doorknob. Somehow, the little goat time and again sneaked into our photos. Walter loudly tried to shoo it away, but to no avail — it still managed to make it into this or that picture :-) Mirror, mirror, on the wall — which is the handsomest goat of all? Incidentally, the view of the heavenly Saas-Fee mountain backdrop from the balcony is truly splendid. The hotel interior is done in Alpine Chic with a slight British accent. At least the plaids admit to a relationship with the British background of the investors. Family suite living room La Locanda Restaurant The food at the Capra exceeds all expectations! The credit goes to Starred Chef Oliver Glowig whose restaurant of the same name in Rome has been awarded two Michelin stars. For “La Locanda” in Capra, Oliver Glowig imported no less than his entire team from Rome. And should he himself be away, Sous Chef Daniele Corona makes sure that his modern Italian cuisine is served with an unmistakable Swiss touch. Sous-Chef Daniele Corona at work The service, too, left nothing to be desired: the attentive, friendly waiters look after their guests in several languages. And even Assistant Director Claudia Schibler lends a hand when all guests are waiting to be served simultaneously. We totally enjoyed an evening of being wined and dined. La Locanda is made to order for gourmets who like dining in an intimate, personalized atmosphere. The Menu We were greeted with an amuse-bouche starter before getting down to the serious business at hand: Amuse-bouche of duck with sweet onion The bread is served with Cremania, a cream cheese made of buffalo milk Sophisticated appetizer: Lobster with burrata on artichoke bottom Variation on Eringer beef with celery puree, filet, cross rib on tartar sauce Walter could not resist the sweet temptation and ordered a pomegranate mousse (just because pomegranates are so healthful, of course…) Pomegranate mousse with raspberries But I didn’t do badly either! My espresso was served with a fine Zeppole. These are small, warm (!) Berlin “doughnuts” — albeit without filling. We really intended to each try only one. But the little things were so tasty that we simply HAD TO consume them! I also tried “bacio di dama”, simply delicious! Italian hazelnut cookies. Zeppole, orange tarts, pralines, bacio di dama for dessert We rounded out this exquisite menu with a nightcap from the well-stocked hotel bar. Walter found the Tequila Añejo worth a try and I sipped a Grappa di Brunello. Our drinks tasted all the better next to the fireplace. The occasional pleasant sound of goat bells only added to the sense of peace and well-being… Tequila añejo and grappa, with goat on the side As it turned out, life at The Capra is anything but uptight! What it does offer is attentive and warm hospitality in elegant surrounding with an outstanding gourmet cuisine. And it continues on “the morning after,” energized and in fine animal spirits after such a breakfast, ready to tackle the new day! Breakfast with smiley cappuccino Poached egg on avocado and salmon Oh, yes, a small spa is also part of the offering. It gets a bit tight fairly quickly when all the bushed skiers or hikers come in to relax at the same time. But this our English friends already know and have fitting expansion plans under way: right next to The Capra a new chalet is rising with another ten suites and a larger wellness area. Something to look forward to! Middle Allalin – The mountain in Saas-Fee’s backyard All around Saas-Fee many winter hiking trails invite to relaxed or athletic walks through a mountain winter wonderland. You can find details to the varied possibilities here. Walter and Katja on Mittelallalin with the Stellihorn in the background When you are in Saas-Fee, under no circumstances miss the highest subway in the world – the Metro Alpin! It will take you comfortably to the top of Mittelallalin (3500 MASL). Over food and drink, you can enjoy the marvelous view from the “Threes!xty, the highest revolving restaurant in the world. It turns a leisurely 360 degrees in an hour. View of the Stellihorn Saas-Fee idyll Oh, not to forget… although that little goat was almost everywhere else we went, it didn’t make it to this altitude and into any of our pictures here! ;-) Our thanks go to… Many thanks to Raphael Herzog, Director of the The Capra Hotel and Assistant Director Claudia Schibler. We really enjoyed our weekend at your establishment! A nice thank you also to Julia Faulhaber of Faulhaber Marketing for the tip and organizing our stay. ## Travel Writer Justine Tyerman’s Ski Boots Undergo Radical Surgery Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/justine-tyerman-ski-boots-surgery There’s fierce rivalry between the TBs (tramping boots) and the SBs (ski boots) in my life. The cousins have always competed for my affections and the honour of being chosen for the outdoor pursuit of the day. So when the TBs heard that the SBs needed radical surgery, they began gloating in a most uncharitable fashion. They love nothing better than to assert their superiority over the SBs and on this occasion they were trumpeting the fact they had never, even when brand new, caused the most minor of blisters. Through no fault of their own, the poor SBs needed to undergo a painful stretching procedure to accommodate the ugly bone spurs my feet had sprouted since I purchased them a few years ago. The once supremely comfortable boots had become instruments of torture in the intervening years to the point where I was nearly in tears at the end of a long ski run. I happened to mention my agony to Paul, the Scot at Outside Sports in Wanaka as I surveyed the dazzling array of expensive SBs for sale, bemoaning the need to buy a new pair to accommodate my bulging bunions. Paul, the Scot, about to operate on my skiboots at the Wanaka Outside Sports shop. ‘No need to buy new boots, lassie,’ says Paul after I explained the situation to him. ‘Bring your boots to me and I’ll have a good look at them.’ I was to deliver said torture instruments to him that evening and he would apply some judicious torture of his own in appropriate places. I shuddered as he showed me the tools of his trade and the hot iron rods he was intending to inflict on my unsuspecting SBs… but the prospect of saving a fortune overcame my qualms. When I showed him the offending boots later that day, he said ‘Och aye, I can fix them no trouble at all.’ I left the SBs in Paul’s not exactly tender care overnight. I had visions of them being shackled to a medieval torture rack in a dark, dank dungeon. But a couple of gluweins by the open fire at the nearby Cardrona pub seemed to soothe my conscience. Early next morning, I returned to the shop and nervously tried on the SBs. My feet tentatively tested the interior of the boot and uttered a sigh of relief at the space and wriggle room they discovered they now had. Ahh. Bliss. I nearly hugged the dear Scotsman. The procedure had been highly successful and the SBs once again fitted like a glove… albeit with a couple of bulges. Paul had heated the rigid plastic shell and given it a good stretch in precisely the right places. The SBs were very stoic about the operation and said it was worth the pain if it meant they would be able to continue in service… such good sports! Jack and Justine at the Wanaka Outside Sports shop. The Scotsman warned me against cooking my boots by the fire at night – would I do such a thing? – because plastic has a memory and it will return to its original form if it gets overheated. While I was in the shop, smiley Jack the ski rental lad, suggested I try a different pair of Dynastars as the ones I had been skiing on had skittery tips. Ski shop lads are the same the world over. Knowledgeable, entertaining, gregarious, cheeky – real characters. My feet positively purred that day at Treble Cone in the fresh powder, a late season gift from the Great White Snow Goose. And my tips behaved well too. And that night, basking by the fire, the TBs displayed a modicum of Christian compassion and charity towards their cousins… who wisely stayed away from the direct heat. It was heart-warming to see. The TBs could afford to be magnanimous. They knew it was their turn next day and they would be heading into Mt Aspiring National Park by Dart River Jetboat, then disappearing into the wilderness on an off-track Ultimate Nature Experience. Dart River Jetboat© Ngai Tahu Tourism They had seen many wondrous sights in their 10-year service and became quite garrulous as they bragged to the SBs about their exploits. A few years earlier, the TBs had ventured onto the Franz Josef Glacier with ice crampons attached to their soles to explore the massive ice field with its blue-green crevasses and afterwards, they had sat beside me while I soaked my tired limbs in the Glacier Hot Pools. They had also watched sheep being shorn at Rotorua’s Agrodome and met a nocturnal kiwi at nearby Rainbow Springs. Shearing a merino sheep at the Agrodome in Rotorua© Ngai Tahu Tourism Early last year they had hiked the Hollyford Track for a second time to celebrate an auspicious birthday and wedding anniversary, and also experienced snowshoeing which they found somewhat undignified. Lightweight, high-tech snowshoes Looking ahead, they were confident they would also be chosen as the footwear of the day when I finally got up the courage to do the world famous Shotover Jetboat trip which thrilled Prince William and Kate when they visited Queenstown in 2014, and the Huka Falls Jetboat ride near Taupo that takes passengers right to the foot of a thunderous waterfall. World famous Shotover jetboats near Queenstown© Ngai Tahu Tourism “There are many and varied thrills in store for me,” said the TBs. “You SBs however, are limited to skiing alone. You must get frightfully bored.” Factbox * Outside Sports has shops in Queenstown, Wanaka and Te Anau. We picked up all our gear from Queenstown Paul who expertly outfitted four of us in no time, and dropped it back to Wanaka Paul a week later. So convenient. *Justine Tyerman was a guest of Ngai Tahu Tourism which has a stellar line-up of tourist attractions in New Zealand: Shotover Jet, Earth & Sky, Glacier Southern Lakes Helicopters, Queenstown Snowmobiles, Dart River Adventures, Hollyford Track, Guided Walks New Zealand, Franz Josef Glacier Guides, Glacier Hot Pools, Huka Falls Jet, Rainbow Springs and Agrodome. * The writer flew Air Newzealand from Auckland to Queenstown return and stayed at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Queenstown. ## Cal Reiet – Mallorca’s 5-Star Boutique Hotel with a difference Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/mallorca/cal-reiet-boutique-hotel It never ceases to surprise on Mallorca; barely have you left a village on a side street and you find yourself in the countryside in no time at all. Already as I passed the first entrance gate, in the distance I saw a seigneurial and imposing country mansion dating to the year 1881. I could feel my anticipation grow. It felt as if an important family had invited me for the weekend — well, fantasizing is allowed, isn’t it. I like it when the hospitality already begins at booking — of course, no problem, looking forward to welcoming you! — and then when this promise is redeemed upon arrival. Swedish hotel manager Johanna greeted me with open arms, no sooner had I emerged from the car — just as I would expect a hostess who invited me to welcome me to her house. The Cal Reiet Holistic Retreat And so I became immersed in the Cal Reiet Holistic Retreat, which opened its doors for the first time in July 2015. In the main house, you can choose from ten deluxe and luxury rooms, all of them furnished in today’s trendy, bright, sophisticated country house style. You can tell right away; pros have been at work here. I had booked #10, known as the Tower Room; it had the bathroom on the lower floor and the bedroom above it with windows piercing its walls all around. This one looks out on the Santanyi village church, that one onto the pool and the garden, and another simply let you take in the distance. The tower living vibe is unique. Bedroom in the Tower Suite I slept wonderfully well on double bed’s high mattresses, just the way I like them — and the in-room swing is meant to be used :-) That said, for those who can’t give up their favorite TV series even when vacationing, you’ll need to catch them on your iPad via W-LAN, because none of the rooms have TV. A Luxury Room with freestanding tub Check out prices and availability here: Should you want to bring the whole family, you are best off booking one of the two casitas right next to the main building. In these two colorful guest houses a total of five one-or two bedroom suites are available, each with full kitchen and private patio. Inside the casitas, beautiful Moroccan and Asian wood accents beguile. Holism – a philosophy of life “Stress will leave you beat no matter how healthy you eat” counsels Johanna, who manages this holism refuge for the Swiss owner-couple that befriended her. Holism is a philosophy of life that, put simply, means being mindful of body, mind, and spirit. So, it is unlikely that there are many kitchens in Mallorca’s luxury hotels that consistently dish up healthy food like Cal Reiet, vegetarian delicacies (prepared with utmost creativity) exclusively made from seasonal produce of the island and not a bit of sugar, except in the excellent local wines that they decant for you. Choice breakfast buffet In addition to the healthy fare, social aspects are of great importance at this holism oasis. Hence, you can enjoy breakfast (the fermented bread comes fresh from the bakery every morning!) or dinner seated at long dining tables that encourage contact with the other guests. However, the huge idyllic strolling garden with its beautiful old growth trees (I could not stop feasting my eyes on these tall old trees!) also offers up a multitude of secluded retreats, as does the main house, starting with the cozy library with a view of the garden to comfortable sofa corners to the very large and attractively designed pool complex with bar. Please note: Cal Reiet is a non-smoking hotel, in- and outdoors. Hospitality genes The ten-person crew offers everything that you need to relax and revive. Every Cal Reiet team members in one form or another has a role to play in wellness; so it can easily happen that the yoga teacher or the personal trainer check you in when you arrive. “Everyone who works here must also have hospitality DNA,” confides Johanna as her most important hiring criterion. This is when it dawned on me why I did not feel like a guest in an anonymizing luxury ambiance but instead at home in a familial environment with style. Claudia Wyss enjoying the Cal Reiet I experienced this truly tastefully renovated seigneurial mansion with its two guest houses as a treasure of southeast Mallorca. That is because it does not simply fit into the usual 5-star standard but offers something above and beyond: a familial gathering point for travelers with an interest in a mindful lifestyle or simply wanting to nibble at it. Seen from that perspective, the price-performance ratio is just right. The specially-built yoga temple, by the way, is simply the ultimate, with its super pleasant soft wood floor, its generous space flooded with natural light. And it’s there for you to use even without teacher. Yoga temple© Cal Reiet ## Swissôtel Dresden am Schloss – Saxon hospitality meets Swiss design Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/swissotel-dresden-swiss-design The Swissôtel Dresden am Schloss was my home for the duration of my three-day Dresden visit. I have to confess that I slept better there than in my own bed. What better testimonial for a hotel could you wish for? A spacious hotel room is tops on my list of things when I want to explore a city in a relaxed and cheerful mood. To me, small rooms quickly feel like the walls are closing in, and they make me feel out of sorts. It was just my great good luck to have a plum of a room waiting for me on arrival in Dresden. The hotel The Swissôtel Dresden Am Schloss opened in 2012, built completely new from the ground up based on historical plans. It actually consists of five different facades which hide an interior complex of modern buildings arranged around courtyards, but on entering the lobby you would think you stepped into an intimate boutique hotel. And you would be right! But with its 230 rooms (197 Swiss Advantage, 24 Swiss Select, and 9 Grand class rooms) and 5 suites, you are also about to check into a good-sized hotel. Swiss design, local charm The well-appointed lobby was a first surprise, where homey Swiss pine scent mixed with a definite international ambiance.The large, Meissen porcelain-inspired peacock mosaic on the staircase proved a striking accent for the modern lobby design. Throughout the hotel, Swiss elements combine with uniquely Saxon touches. So, for instance, in every room you will find large wall tattoos that once again evoke Meissen porcelain motifs. The carpet pattern in the Swiss Advantage rooms alludes to the Villeroy & Boch hand-painted tiles in Pfunds Molkerei (dairy store), one of Dresden’s emblematic tourist draws. Visit the in-house spa and you will be pampered in a wellness atmosphere the likes of which you only find in the Swiss Engadine. Local lore also abounds. One anecdote has it that during excavations for the hotel foundation, they turned up oyster shells and broken Bordeaux wine bottles. These likely dated from Pöppelmann’s time(17th century). He was court architect to Saxony’s ruler, the Elector August the Strong. Pöppelmann was known for the extravagant feasts he put on in his home, which occupied the site the hotel sits on. What better foundation to build a hotel on! The Grand rooms These high-ceiling rooms feel like lofts and thanks to their generous square footage offer a wonderful feeling of spaciousness. The living area has a seating corner and a big work space. Next to it is the sleeping area, with the open bathroom off one end with a generous-sized sink area, free-standing bathtub plus shower and WC. The room leaves nothing to be desired. As I mentioned before, the bed had me sleeping better than at home. Corinne Miseer, the hotel’s sales and marketing director, confided to me that I was not the first guest that slept on cloud nine in the big box spring bed. In fact, she had given the supplier’s contact information to a few well-rested guests already. The suites Still more spacious and boasting even loftier ceilings are the superlative suites. The aforementioned big wall tattoos in the suites carry over onto the window curtains here. One of the suites with free-standing bathtub recently was even ranked among the most beautiful hotel bathtubs with a view. Restaurant Wohnstube Kevin F. Furrer, the hotel’s general manager, enthusiastically told me that on the Wohnstube (“Living Room”) menu his guests can find a sophisticated combination of Swiss delicacies and Saxon specialties. But with a knowing smile he let on that the “Züri Gschnätzlet” (a Zurich-style sliced veal and kidney dish) was out of this world. To our regret, a tightly-packed schedule did not leave us with time to eat in the Wohnstube, not even to indulge in a mid-afternoon tea break.* On the other hand, we did get to enjoy the breakfast. At home, I make do with a morning coffee, but when traveling I treat myself to copious, leisurely breakfasts.This one was the best ever! I can only call it breakfast paradise. And the very friendly, attentive staff helps make it so! *The in-house pastry chef has to be a divinely-inspired magician. Not only is his Dresden Eierschecke a dream (pictured), so is the unforgettable, sinfully moist chocolate truffle cake that we had with a glass of champagne as a birthday aperitif …thank you and thank you! Pürovel spa area Swiss pine scents greet guests upon entering the Pürovel Spa & Sport area, a fascinating combination of medieval construction and modern design. “Pürovel” is a Rhaeto-Romance derivation meaning “pure mountain stream.” Only the lack of leisure time kept me from having a wonderfully relaxing time here. The medieval brickwork helps create a comforting quiet throughout the spa’s various areas. The Pürovel Spa & Sport offerings include diverse treatments, massages, Finnish sauna and bio sauna, a gym and a relaxation room under the 15th century style vaulted ceiling. The Swissôtel Dresden’s location next to the Residenzschloss (August the Strong’s palace) is ideal. Within easy walking distance are numerous points of interest, such as the Semperoper opera house, the Elbe river, the Frauenkirche baroque church, the Catholic Hofkirche cathedral, the rococo Zwinger palace, many museums and also lots of shops and a sheer endless pedestrian-only shopping promenade. During Christmas Advent time, it is just a stone’s throw from the hotel to the Altmarkt, the site of Dresden’s famous Striezelmarkt Christmas market, Germany’s oldest and celebrating its 581st year in 2015. Swissôtel Dresden Am Schloss, Schlossstrasse 16, 01067 Dresden Check out prices and availability here: More posts about Dresden Dresden, Saxony’s charming capital Dresden’s Christmas markets My five Dresden To Do’s A great big thank you for the unforgettably warm hospitality to Kevin F. Furrer, General Manager, Corinne Miseer, Director of Sales and Marketing, as well as the entire team of the Swissôtel Dresden Am Schloss. Also a special thanks to Oliver Sefrin, head of press and public relations for Germany Travel and Markus Veit, associate for national and international markets, as well as Christoph Münch, manager for international marketing, press and public relations with Dresden Marketing. ## Spectacular golf safari on Cyprus, island of the gods Source: https://travelmemo.com/cyprus/golf-safari When the cool weather starts in our latitudes and the fog rolls in, we golfers head for warmer climes. This time around, Katja and I resumed our “running duel” in Cyprus. When it was all over, it couldn’t have been any closer… We enjoy puffing up our little golf jaunts into mini golf tournaments for just the two of us. But I went through a lengthy dry spell lately when I lost my touch and my swing along with it — and, of all things, right after I had walked off with the winner’s trophy at a (real) golf tournament. So, when I recently seemed to get my groove back, it felt like a minor miracle. After slogging through that mental and physical golf desert of wicked golf balls sailing embarrassingly off target, I actually started giving Katja a run for her money again, so that at least some of our rounds were up for grabs until the last hole! To close out this year’s golf season, we decided it would be game on, this time in Cyprus… Round 1: Minthis Hills Golf Club We were both eager to find out if the golf gods were really with me again….what better place to give it my best shot than on Cyprus, an island rife with legendary gods of antiquity? So it was that full of vim and light of step that I approached the first tee of the Minthis Hills Golf Course that is idyllically located in the island’s hill country. And promptly down came the first dampener! No sooner had I adroitly placed the ball and was waggling into my stance for what was to be my first wonder drive when the clouds burst right above me and drenched the green with a deluge worthy of Noah. Even the Scottish greens keeper, no doubt used to all kinds of weather, urged us to seek refuge in his hut where he was already sheltering. But, by the time we made it there we were already soaked to the skin. And what with the sudden shock, we forgot to snap any after-action photos…. Anyway, we were immediately handed towels and in the checkroom we let the hairdryers do their thing — as clothes dryers, of course. It took just a few minutes for the spooky episode to be over and soon we actually had the fairway under our golf shoes again. But still befuddled and all shook up as I was, the ball flights resulting from my first few artistic swings still left something to be desired. Fortunately, things improved steadily from hole to hole for me so that by the time we reached the club house I had outplayed Katja to a comfortable 7 point advantage! In professional golf that would be an infinity and even for us it’s quite a lot. Dear Katja, I thought, you will never ever make that up! So I thought, and said so, that’s how sure I was I had it in the bag… Walter freshly covered with glory in front of the Minthis Hills clubhouse. But anyone who knows anything about the game of golf will tell you: As soon as you think you know how it’s going to go… Watch out! Round 2: Secret Valley Golf Club On our tournament’s second day, we had sunshine in buckets and so instead of wielding hair dryers we sloshed on the sunscreen. As hinted by its name, the Secret Valley Golf Club hides away in a long side valley. It generally goes up and down one time and then it goes hither and yon where it is relatively flat. With a huge lead and the hot sun in my neck, I didn’t think it would be necessary to warm up on the driving range. It was warm enough, I was definitely hot and so were my clubs. Famous last words… on the first tee shot my swing almost totally deserted me once again. Hmm. But the frustration-proof golfer naturally shakes this sort of setback off with ease, and so I made my way to where my ball had wound up. It wasn’t that far away, to be honest…. My next swing promptly also missed. And the one after that. And the next one! Only then did it dawn on me what hockey sticks the caddy had stuffed into my golf bag: ramrod-stiff steel shaft clubs! Tiger Woods maybe would know how to get the most out of them. I, on the other hand, could only try to practice highly conservative damage control. To add to my general dissatisfaction, Katja had played up in a big way, so that half of my lead had melted away like snow on Cyprus cactus: altogether quickly and completely. I tried enjoying the partly picturesque landscape instead as my golf game suffered. It got so bad that even the lizards on the course would slink away from the fairway shaking their heads. And so what was bound to happen, happened: by the time we reached the last green, I, too, could only drag my tail onto it, burdened by a point deficit equal in size if not grandeur to the surplus I had the previous day. Ouch… Walter, not amused, plotting his comeback… Beer at the 18th hole is the best! Since Katja was riding high and not inclined to help me get better, I sought solace with a chilled blond. A cool Pilsner after a hot round of golf, incidentally, is among the best things money can buy! In Cyprus, the brand is Keo. It won’t make it on my Top 10 list of beers, but it certainly hit the spot for me after that hellish round… Round 3: Aphrodite Hills On Day 3 of our tournament, we headed to the course that promised to be high point of the island of the gods, located appropriately high on the coastal rise and named after the goddess of love herself: Aphrodite Hills. I was determined to live up to the venue, telling myself to get on the ball and leave it all on the course. Aphrodite Hills nestles between spacious golf villas and a luxury hotel. Golf carts are a must because of the long distances between the teeing grounds. With studied nonchalance, I thus drove up to the first tee and whetted my clubs. It seemed all sunshine and roses for my game at first, and I went at it like a fire fighter! The fairways, picturesquely laid out in the landscape, that day seemed to suit my game perfectly. Even the rental clubs once more had plenty of dynamism, so that the struck golf ball whipped through the scenery like nobody’s business. Regrettably, as time went by, more and more of them decided to take off in directions I never intended. I’m not sure if I was overpowered by the terrain or distracted by the villas or even Katja (?!); in any case, the longer I played the grimmer things looked. By the 18th hole, I was once more trailing so badly that the overall tournament victory was scarcely within reach any longer. Chastened, I returned the sleek golf-cart and walked to the club house where I could drown my sorrows in another comfort beer. Make that another Keo… “Why me?” Walter wondering why the golf gods deserted him… There was no denying it, going by my score, things indeed looked bitter. Would I on the last day be able to pull off a winning round so I could at least tie with Katja in golf rounds won? Only the gods knew… Round 4: Elea Golf Last but not least we played that fateful last round on the relatively new Elea golf course. It is situated near Paphos on a nondescript hillside. From below it is barely visible. and the drive up leads through a barren landscape. But arrive at the club house on top, and you are rewarded with a rare view of the southwestern coast of Cyprus. The course is built to very high standards with the clubhouse very attractively appointed. So, I couldn’t blame it on the course, and the rent-a-clubs seemed also of good quality. In high spirits, therefore, I made my way to the first tee, this time after warming up in spite of the sun on high. After all, a person can learn… The first tee shot turned out nearly perfect. Always an important indicator…But already with the second stroke that wayward ball disappeared into bush and scree, never to be seen again. Despite more hooks and shanks, somehow I managed to get on the green and sink the replacement ball in fairly good form. From then on, my clubs and I got hotter and hotter until I felt like I really was cooking, back in top form. Finally! Only thing is, Katja, too, was having a hot run that day. Having skylarked a bit too long after I took my shots, I turned back only to see that Katja had been holing balls like there was no tomorrow. So, we were still playing head to head down to the wire, just like the pros! At the half-way house, I still clung to a razor-thin, two-point margin. From here, we continued at the same hot pace to 17th hole, except that Katja by now had pulled up even! On this hole, you drive blind over much scree and bushes up quite a long fairway. It was a shot I promptly flubbed, meaning my ball pulled another disappearing act and even the replacement ball showed the same loser tendencies. Zero points! On the next to last hole! Jitters, jitters! But for once the love goddess Aphrodite brought me luck and Katja’s ball also arced into the bushes. Zero points, too! You could clearly hear the oohs and aahs coming from the gallery (what gallery?!). And so it came down to the last, decisive 18th hole…by now, the tension was nearly unbearable! Once again, I chose a particularly beautiful white ball and then risked it onto the upper edge of the sideways- sloping fairway. As if propelled by an invisible hand, it rolled past wicked sand bunkers and other hazards right onto the middle of the fairway. Wow, what a great lie for the approach shot! Pure thrills: Katja on the last and decisive tee at Elea Golf It’s do or die! Katja also has a good tee shot! Her ball flies straight and far — but then it trundles down the tilted fairway into the sloping rough! Gee, that’s too bad. Indeed, the poor lie gives her enough of a hard time that I can loft my ball and then sink it in the cup, to stay ahead of her and take the round by a hairsbreadth … I win! I did it! It’s a tie! 2:2 through four rounds! Walter riding high again: he won a round! Admittedly, I was outpointed by Katja. No argument there. But my form graph did slope up again. It’s just too bad that it was the last round of the season…Now we wonder: can my regained form be conserved during the winter break? Cyprus golf safari – the courses You can reach this Mediterranean island of the gods in less than four hours flying time from Zurich. With daytime temperatures averaging 20 degrees Centigrade even in the winter months, Cyprus is an ideal golf destination. We played the following courses in October, with temperatures still hovering around a summery 28 degrees: Minthis Hills Golf Club Minthis Hills golf course The Donald Steel-designed Minthis Hills Golf Course (formerly the Tsada Golf Club) is located about 15 km north of Paphos. The course is laid out around the 12th century Stavros Tis Minthis monastery and is fringed by beautiful fruit, walnut, and almond trees as well as grapevines. The 19th hole – the clubhouse, that is – is not to be missed. They serve fine snacks as well as menu items here in a stylishly modern ambiance. Secret Valley Golf Club Secret Valley green with flag In Secret Valley, you feel almost as if you are already in the desert. Uniquely embedded in a valley between cacti and Oleander shrubs — with the gigantic, reddish rocks always in view — the Secret Valley course winds through a beautiful landscape. Speaking of snakes: please poke around in the shrubbery for balls only with your 7 iron! We thought that the 14th hole with its “beach bunker” was particularly funny. Aphrodite Hills Golf Aphrodite Hills green with golf villas Quite close to Secret Valley lies the legendary and extremely well-tended Aphrodite Hill golf course. A 6,299- meter-long championship course, it stretches through hilly terrain. Time and again, spectacular ocean views reveal themselves. Incidentally, nearby is Petra tou Romiou, where legend has it that Aphrodite rose from the sea. One of the highlights on this course is the steep cart drive across a wild, serpentine path to the 7th tee. From here you must drive your ball across a shallow canyon onto what looks like a postage-stamp sized green, relatively speaking, on the opposite rim. The 7th hole: You just need to drive your ball across the canyon to the green on top of the opposite rim… In other words, not the place for a sudden case of nerves! Our adrenaline did suffice to get our balls to the other side without any problems. Elea Golf Course Elea Golf club house The Elea Golf Club sports the newest golf course on the island. The championship 18-hole course was laid out on a former carob tree plantation by Sir Nick Faldo, the English pro golfer and course designer. Great job! Thanos Hotel Almyra We stayed in the Almyra Design Hotel in Paphos during our golf week. Check out prices and availability here: All four courses are within a 22 km radius and so can be reached by rental car in short order. Driving on the left side of the road, to be sure! Elegante blaue Vorhänge Kyma suite in the blue hour Almyraspa Pool und Restaurant ## Dresden, Saxony’s historic capital: designed to charm Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/dresden-saxonys-historic-capital In Dresden, I encountered a proud, historic city with folksy inhabitants and imposing baroque architecture decked out for Christmas. 800 years old, rebuilt and vibrant today, this compact city is also known as the “Florence on the Elbe.” Dresden not only stands for renowned baroque architecture and a vibrant theater, music, and opera culture but also for the untiring, decade-long and now completed reconstruction of the Altstadt (“Old Town” – the city’s heart) after its total destruction in the closing days of World War II. The rebuilt 18th century Frauenkirche is the Altstad’s world-famous centerpiece. The large cobblestone market square the treasured church fronts on, the Neumarkt, is lined with colorfully restored apartment houses, shops, and hotels that give the square a storybook character. Nearby major buildings like the Rezidenzschloss, the palace of Saxony’s rulers, the Hofkirche Catholic cathedral, and another baroque (or is that rococo?) masterpiece, the Zwinger palace, today home to a museum complex, the cobblestone streets and stone arch Elbe river bridges that connect the Altstadt with Dresden’s Neustadt (New Town) made this visitor think not so much of Florence as another historic treasure of a city, Prague (it’s also on my bucket list to visit.) In other words, Dresden, ancient city of Saxon kings and prince-electors, simply oozes charm. And so do its people: Dresdners are witty, good at repartee, articulate, fun-loving and very hospitable. I enjoyed myself immensely in their company and had many a good laugh over their clever puns and wordplay (especially when spoken in unique Saxon accented German!). True, Dresden at the moment is getting some negative press because of the anti-immigrant demonstrations Mondays on the historic Theaterplatz. I just simply made a point of keeping away from the inner city during my stay; the rest of the week there was no hint of anti-foreign sentiment anywhere. Also, the eloquent, bold slogans calling on people’s better natures that I saw fastened on many of the most historic buildings made a deeply positive impression. Getting back to things to see and do: In the Residenzschloss you will find part of Saxony’s art collection, the staatliche Kunstsammlung. It also houses a veritable treasure chamber called the Grünes Gewölbe that is filled with mind-blowing, precious objects exquisitely-wrought of gold and silver, studded with diamonds and precious stones. After so much sensory overload, I passed up the museums in the Zwinger, being content to feast my eyes on its glorious grounds and exterior. I admit I was pleasantly surprised by Dresden, thanks to its warm people, many fascinating nooks and crannies, good food and authentic pre-Christmas traditions, including the bustling Striezelmarkt, Dresden’s famous Christmas market and Germany’s oldest (in its 581st year!) that is currently lighting up the city center and spreading its unique brand of good cheer through December 24th. If you can, join the lively holiday goings-on and don’t forget to try the Christstollen, a rich Christmas cake unique to the region (it’s genuine only if bears the official seal!) Click here for my report on Dresden’s Striezelmarkt Neustadt Neustadt (“New Town”) just on the other side of the Elbe river offers a modern counterpoint to the city’s baroque Altstadt heart. Urbane, sassy Neustadt feels like Kreuzberg, Berlin’s equally happening district. Here, too, the walls of the row houses lining narrow streets are full of slick graffiti art, and uncounted bars, clubs, restaurants and a potpourri of cultures beckon. Life is popping everywhere you look. It almost compels the visitor to blend in, to saunter down these streets, do some shopping here and there, and stroll through the must-see Kunsthof Passages. Or visit the famous Pfunds Molkerei (dairy shop) lined entirely with hand-painted tiles (photography is forbidden!) even if it is occasionally thronged with shoppers and gawkers stepping off the tourist buses at the curb. Right next door is the Senfladen whose immense selection of mustards, dips and spice mixtures nearly overwhelmed me. One door down you will find the Ostmarkt where they will sell you regional eastern German specialties and nostalgia items from the “good old” DDR days, when this was still East Germany. A funny thing happened to me in Neustadt: In one of the stores, the sales girl asked me “are you staying in the Swissôtel?” Surprised, I asked her “You mean you can hear it?” to which she laughingly confessed that she did. Now it was my turn to laugh and wonder if we Swiss overnight anywhere but the Swissôtel. Click here for my 5 tips on must-do activities while in Dresden. Restaurant recommendations Altstadt Pulverturm by the Frauenkirche and Sophienkeller in the Taschenbergpalais Kempinski Hotel are two of the most beautiful vaulted cellar restaurants in the Altstadt, both serving hearty fare… Augustiner by the Frauenkirche – Bavarian brewery pub with a Bavaria-Saxony menu… Kurfürstenschänke by the Frauenkirche – a historic tavern serving Bohemia-Saxony specialties… Kastenmeiers – Gerd Kastenmeier’s gourmet cuisine with regional and seasonal delicacies. Surprising fish dishes! Burgerei – A burger paradise. Out-of-this-world burgers, and not just for meat lovers… brennNessel – vegetarian restaurant and pub with rustic ambiance and wholesome dishes… Neustadt Lila Soße – Nouveau German cuisine, very happening… Die Pastamanufaktur – terrific homemade pasta dishes, ideal for lunch… Coffee breaks Cafe Schinkelwache – classic coffee house in baroque surroundings. Great cake selection and original Dresden Christstollen® with the seal of authenticity… Bakery and Coffee Wippler – a classic, within sight of the Blue Wonder antique bridge… Hofcafé in the Kunsthof Passages – A cute little café. The cakes are to die for… Miss Fein – for a real American cupcake or another sweet thing… Kleinert’s Specialties – gourmet foods shop with integrated café and chocolaterie… Café Kreutzkamm – in the Altmarkt Gallery, with a copious cake selection… Wohnzimmer – Club, bar and café… Practical infos SWISS offers an ideal flight schedule. You arrive in the morning and get home in the evening. Dresden is a mere 1 hour and 20 minutes flight time away. By train from Zurich, it will take a good eight hours. From the Dresden airport to downtown you can take public transit via a rapid bus/tram connection operated by DVB – Dresdner Verkehrsbetriebe AG . Take the number 77 Bus in direction Klotzsche Infineon to Infineon Nord and there transfer to Tram 8 in direction Südvorstadt and get off at Pirnaischer Platz. Avoid the transfer by taking the S-Bahn train to the stops at either Bahnhof Mitte or Hauptbahnhof. Tickets for train, tram, and bus can be purchased at the airport from machines (they accept coins, bills, and credit cards). A day pass will cost you € 6.– and is valid from time of purchase until 4 p.m. the next day. Available in several versions, the Dresden CityCard, besides offering free train, bus, and ferry rides, will admit you free to select museums and discount tickets to many recreation facilities, cultural events, gastronomy, and excursions. You can order it online before you leave home — which makes sense, because then you can ride hassle-free right on arrival. Or buy it on-site at Dresden Information at the Frauenkirche.The Dresden CityCard is a good deal if you make use of the additional discounts, otherwise a current day pass will likely be all you need. Incidentally, Dresden is just 2 hours by car from Prague. The train will also get you there in 2 1/2 hours. So, if planning a longer stay in Dresden, by all means, visit Prague. You can also reach the Czech capital by biking alongside the Elbe. A few tour operators offer bike tours from Dresden to Prague. Count on taking a few days if you decide to go this route, however… My thanks go to… Many thanks for the invitation and arrangements to Oliver Sefrin, head of press and public relations for Germany Travel and Markus Veit, associate for national and international markets, as well as Christoph Münch, manager for international marketing, press and public relations with Dresden Marketing. ## Five things to absolutely not miss in Dresden Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/dresden-things-todo The classic answer to the question “What are the must-see attractions in Dresden?” normally goes something like this: The baroque Frauenkirche church, the Semperoper opera house, the Residenzschloss ducal palace with its Grünes Gewölbe treasure vault, the Gemäldegalerie art museum, the rococo Zwinger palace and the Elbe river that flows through the city known as the “Florence on the Elbe.” And, of course, there’s much more for visitors to do: you could take a nighttime walk in the happening Neustadt across the river from the Old Town, visit the borough of Loschwitz on the banks of the Elbe with its funicular railway and a 19th century iron bridge named Das blaue Wunder or “The Blue Wonder.” There is so much, much more to explore in and around Dresden; it just depends on the length of your stay and interests. But if you want the full Dresden experience, there are some less-obvious things you really don’t want to skip … …and here they are: five of my top “don’t miss,” not-so-obvious things to do in Dresden: Climb up into the Frauenkirche dome Even in hazy weather, the sweeping 360 degree view from the dome across the city and far into the Elbe valley is unforgettable. I’m plagued by fear of heights, but I can assure fellow agoraphobes — it is eminently doable! And the satisfaction afterward of having been all the way up to the top is priceless. Stroll through the Kunsthof passages Sauntering through the Kunsthof passages art and dining quarter made up of five different-themed “passages” in the Outer Neustadt is a real treat!. Start on Görlitzerstrasse, continue down Louisenstrasse, Rothenburgerstrasse and Bautznerstrasse to take it all in! The passages are perfectly suited for shopping and dawdling. Take a break in the charming Hofcafe — it advertises itself as Dresden’s smallest coffeehouse — or stop for lunch in the Lila Soße restaurant-bar for some modern German cuisine or a cool libation (see my restaurant tips) before continuing to explore this fascinating, friendly part of town. Eat an Eierschecke (or two…) Eat an “Eier” what? What I’m talking about is a classic Dresden treat. Here is what the famous writer and Dresden native Erich Kästner said about it: “The Eierschecke is a kind of cake that humanity in the rest of the world has the misfortune of not knowing about.” What he and the other Dresdners seem to like about it is the delicate, light, sweetly airy custard-and-fruit topped cream cheese on a cake bottom. You can get yours and get hooked, too, in just about every cafe and restaurant. The one they serve in the Swissôtel Dresden’s Wohnstube Restaurant is to die for. I want to express my warm thanks here once more for this taste delight and the recipe! Tour the Semperoper at night On the frequent opera rehearsal days, the Semperoper is not open to daytime visitors, so they offer nighttime tours to those interested in seeing and learning about the gorgeous interior. I found it to be hugely entertaining. They tell you countless amusing as well as instructive anecdotes and stories behind the stage curtain. So now I know how and why the opera burned down in 1869. I also learned that afterwards the plaster walls in the foyer were treated with a beer-based stain that made them look like wood, a fire safety precaution demanded by the architect Gottfried Semper who didn’t want to see his creation go up in flames again. And now I also know where the best seats in the house are and the secret of the Semperoper’s world-renowned acoustics. I had to smile on learning about a problem that started when the Swiss herbal candy firm Ricola became an opera sponsor: now during opera performances, our guide complained, much too often you can hear the rustle of candy wrappers. Sighing that manners were going out of style, she shared with us this bit of Semperoper wisdom: “Every opera lover knew that you waited until the brass section started in before you sneezed…” Semperoper at Night Tour starts at 10:30 p.m. and lasts one hour Purchase your tickets online or from advance sales in the Schinkelwache on Theaterplatz across from the Residenzschloss palace. Be aware that you will need to buy a photography permit from the hatcheck lady for € 3.– if you plan to take pictures inside the opera building during the tour. Go on a river cruise Think of a river cruise on one of the antique paddle steamers operated by Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt as just like being on a city tour, except that it’s on water and not only in the city. Feet hurting from too many cobble-stoned streets? A leisurely sightseeing trip with stops up and down the Elbe from Dresden offers a welcome change. The cruise proceeds at a stately pace, through the Elbe river valley, past imposing palaces, ecologically restored meadow lands, and compact Dresden boroughs that alternate with picturesque villages. Its relaxing and captivating at the same time. You can easily keep body and soul together in the on-board restaurant with its ample menu that will satisfy any appetite. The cruise program offers a variety of cruises with seasonal themes. An Elbe river cruise when it has snowed I imagine would be simply magical. My thanks for the invitation and organization of the Dresden visit go to Oliver Sefrin, head of press and public relations for Germany Travel, as well as to Markus Veit, associate for national and international markets, and last but not least Christoph Münch, manager for marketing, press and PR for international markets at Dresden Marketing. A great big thanks also to Sächsische Dampfschiffahrts-GmbH & Co. for the wonderful palace cruise in one of its salon steamers. Simply marvelous! ## Festive lights and Advent bliss at Dresden’s Christmas markets Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/dresden-christmas-markets There are famous Christmas markets aplenty in Germany. First documented in 1434, Dresden’s Striezelmarkt is definitely one of the oldest — and rightfully renowned as one of the country’s most beautiful Christmas markets. Catch it now, it’s only open until December 24! There is so much to see, do, taste and buy from the near-endless, lovingly decorated Striezelmark stalls where traditional goods and foods of the Dresden region are sold. You’ll stroll past booths displaying handcrafted wooden ornaments and toys from the nearby Erzgebirge mountains, lace from the centuries-old town of Plauen, illuminated paper folding stars from the Erzgebirge hamlet of Annaberg, and last but far from least, the famous Dresden Stollen, the traditional spiced Christmas cake chock full of rum-soaked raisins, citrus peels, and almonds. There is also no end to food stalls spilling over with all the hearty foods, sweets, baked apples and mulled wine the holiday heart could possibly desire. Add Christmas carols and the ubiquitous scent of cinnamon and spice – it all combines for the special Christmas market feeling that the Dresden Striezelmarkt has enchanted locals and visitors alike for centuries. There is nothing to compare with the jolly mood you get late of an afternoon as twilight descends while wandering through the thronged aisles past wonderfully decorated booths, stopping to browse here and maybe buying a little something there, then listening to the musical offering of a band of musicians. The merchants all have a practiced sense of humor and do their hawking and bargaining jovially and lots of laughter, and so it goes as you let yourself be pulled along merrily, bemused and dazzled at the same time by it all. You could say that the Dresden Striezelmarkt is all about cheerful warmth even when it’s cold outside. It gets its name from the Middle High German word “striezel” meaning “stollen”. As you might expect, stollen has a key role to play in celebrations by the city in the days leading up to Christmas. For example, every year hundreds of spectators are treated in great style to the Stollenfest, a public celebration centered on a giant stollen carried on a horse-drawn wagon, a colorful parade and the Stollen Girl, the queen of the Stollenfest. The Striezelmarkt opening celebration, which took place on November 26 this year, is another mega community event celebrated in the world-famous restored Frauenkirche and then on the Altmarkt in front of the church by the city’s mayor and dignitaries. The mayor cuts a slice off that giant stollen, the market is suddenly ablaze with lights and the Striezelmarkt is open for all to enjoy. The event features the world’s largest wooden candle pyramid and a giant traditional Schwibbogen, a ceremonial arch-shaped candle holder like the smaller ones that Dresdners put in their windows during the Advent season, Both giants have made it into the Guinness Book of Records! Here is where I discovered ten reasons why the Striezelmarkt is thought to be Germany’s most beautiful Christmas market (in German, I’m afraid). Although it is the most famous of them all, the Striezelmarkt has company in the form of a few different sized Christmas markets. The one in the Stallhof (a large courtyard in the Residenzschloss, the ducal palace in the heart of Dresden) for example, has a medieval theme, since this is where they put on jousts in the Middle Ages. And the Frauenkirche church not far away every year is surrounded by a flock of handicraft booths. I, too, did not return home empty-handed. My Christmas tree, besides being graced by my grandfather’s Christmas decorations, will be even more gorgeous with the Plauen lace I purchased; it already has an Annaberg folding star hanging on it. And to bring our Christmas eve dinner to a glorious close, I plan to serve my guests homemade Eierschecke, that Dresden cream cheese and custard tart speciality. You can find more background information here: Dresdner Striezelmarkt Dresdner Stollenfest Dresdner Chiststollen Annaberger Faltstern Merry Christmas everyone! Many thanks for the invitation and arrangements to Oliver Sefrin, head of press and public relations for Germany Travel and Markus Veit, associate for national and international markets, as well as Christoph Münch, manager for international marketing, press and public relations with Dresden Marketing. ## Snowshoeing, jetboating and wilderness hiking Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/snowshoeing-jetboating-wilderness-hiking Justine Tyerman upsets her old tramping mates… again! My TBs (tramping boots) had a hissy fit – literally – at the prospect of being shackled to a pair of rectangular trays with spiked bottoms. It was not a pretty sight, steam pouring from their mouths, laces in disarray, hooks glowing red hot and lots of theatrical sole-stamping. But I was eager to try new experiences, broaden my horizons, blaze new trails and get out of my comfort zone but the TBs were stuck in the mud with conservative blinkers on. For them, tramping was tramping and no self-respecting TB would accept a tacky tack-on to aid ambulation. The idea of being harnessed to snowshoes was the ultimate insult. Lightweight, high-tech snowshoes Their petulance was becoming tiresome but I had to remember they were well over 60 in boot-years and I needed to indulge them a little. I said I was worried for their welfare – that they might suffocate in the deep snow at the top of the Remarkables. And that ‘raquettes à neige’- to give snowshoes their fancy French name – were a practical form of winter footwear with a fascinating history dating back five or six thousand years. I thought this might appeal to both their snobbery and strong sense of tradition and history. A flicker of interest. “You know, when Similaun Man (aka Ötzi the Iceman) who lived 3300 years ago was discovered in the Ötztal Alps on the border between Austria and Italy, he was wearing what archaeologists actually believe were snowshoes,” I said as casually as I could. Quick as a flash they pointed out that they were already well-versed in deep snow having hiked in the Italian Alps last winter. Then I played my ace card, a blatant bribe – in return for co-operation and goodwill, I would treat them to a wilderness hike up their favourite river, the Dart, with lashings of mud AND… a ride in a jet boat. Hallelujah! A deal! Snow-shoeing expedition I wasn’t sure how they would react when the time came for them to be strapped into said snowshoes but I knew in their soul of soles, like me, they would relish being up in the mountains all day, at one or in their case at two, with the Great Outdoors. And believe it or not, our snow-shoeing expedition up to Lake Alta near the summit of the Remarkables was one of the best days of their lives, they confided in me… much later. Our snowshoe prints across frozen Lake Alta below the summit of the Remarkables. As we climbed, the entire Wakatipu Basin unfolded below us like a 3D map, and across the valley, row upon row of mountains came into view, dwarfing Coronet Peak in the foreground. It was breath-taking. Lake Wakatipu looking towards Glenorchy© Ngai Tahu Tourism With the TBs and their new snowshoe mates bonding surprisingly well, we soon left the chairlifts, skiers and snowboarders of the Remarkables Ski Field far behind and entered the white wilderness of the Lake Alta glacial cirque, where the sound of silence was absolute . . . apart from the muffled shuffle of our snowshoes in the fresh powder and the occasional squawk of a kea, New Zealand’s mountain parrot. Snowshoeing party dwarfed by Double Cone, the highest point on the Remarkables.© Ngai Tahu Tourism It was a surreal experience hiking straight uphill in the snow, crossing a frozen lake and munching lunch on a ledge just below the summit of a mountain I had worshipped from afar all my life. Double Cone and the jagged black rocks of the Remarkables towered above us, the reverse side of the iconic sawteeth seen from Queenstown. They have always held a quasi-mystical, sacred fascination for me and it was a pinch-myself moment to be up there, communing with the mountain-tops… not to mention having got there, sans chairlift, under my own and the TBs’ steam. Helicopter option: a private charter to the Forbes Mtns.© Ngai Tahu Tourism Lunch on the Remarkables was simple but delicious. In fact the TBs were jolly good sports the whole day and, dare I say, even appreciated the ease of grip on the steeper terrain afforded by the spikes on the underside of the high-tech, light-weight snowshoes. They also enjoyed ribbing some Aussies who turned up wearing flimsy sand shoes and little else. I heard them guffawing uncharitably with some other TBs they were chatting to on our hike. The young couple had never been in snow before and our gem of a guide, Shaun from NZ Shoeshoe, kitted them out from toe to top without even batting an eye. The TBs spent the night in the cosy drying room at the posh Crowne Plaza, hanging out with TBs and SBs (ski boots) from all round the world. Then early next morning guide Pam from Guided Walks NZ collected us and we headed up the side of Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy. Jetboating in Mount Aspiring National Park As promised, we jumped in a Dart River jet boat and hooned 35km up the beautiful braided river. The TBs loved it when our cool young driver Daniel gunned the grunty twin Hamilton jet engines and spun the boat in a 360… Some of the passengers were green around the gills after five or six twirls on the 90-minute trip but I had a silly grin on my face the whole time and didn’t want it to ever end. Daniel gunned the grunty twin Hamilton jet engines and spun the boat in a 360!© Ngai Tahu Tourism Dart River Jetboat © Ngai Tahu Tourism Dart River Jet© Ngai Tahu Tourism We were deep in the heart of the Mount Aspiring National Park and the southern reaches of the Main Divide, encircled by the magnificent mountain peaks of the Southern Alps, gleaming glaciers, frozen waterfalls and hanging valleys. My spiritual homeland. The park belongs to Te Waipounamu (The Place of Greenstone), a region granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1990 in recognition of its outstanding natural beauty. Sir Peter Jackson put it firmly on the international tourism map when he filmed large chunks of his Lord of the Rings trilogy there. Late morning, Pam appeared as if by magic on the edge of the river, carrying a pack laden with lunch goodies. We waved goodbye to Daniel, shimmied up a shingle bank and wandered off into the wilderness for the rest of the day. The walk is an off-track experience so the TBs were in their element, their soles singing as they trod the soft moss carpet in the pristine native red beech forest. They even got their heart’s desire, splashing through a few shallow streams with muddy verges. It was late winter and the low-slung sun cast long shadows through the tall gaunt trees but the air was mild and felt like rose petals on my skin. A cheeky South Island robin hopped onto on my day pack at lunchtime and left his calling card before helping himself to the pumpkin seeds in my sandwich while I was busy taking photos of exquisite Lake Sylvan. A South Island robin joined us for lunch© Ngai Tahu Tourism Guide Pam and Justine eating lunch beside Lake Sylvan The TBs thought that was a huge joke. I heard them mutter something about comeuppance and karmic backlash for the snowshoe episode. After lunch we joined the DoC track which took us across a very swingy swing bridge over the Routeburn River to Sylvan Lake car park where Pam had left her vehicle before hiking through the forest to meet us on the riverbank. Mystery solved. There’s no snoozing on the 46km road from Glenorchy back to Queenstown. Rated one of the Top Ten scenic drives in the world by both Conde Naste and Lonely Planet, it’s a knock-out at any time of the year but especially after fresh snow. The view of Lake Wakatipu and the mountains from Bennett’s Bluff Lookout is among the most photographed in New Zealand. It’s jaw-dropping. view of Lake Wakatipu and the mountains from Bennett’s Bluff Lookout.© Ngai Tahu Tourism The TBs had excelled themselves so I gave them the next day off and took the SBs up to Coronet Peak. Bad move as it turns out. The TBs don’t like being side-lined. But that’s another story… Factbox Justine Tyerman was a guest of Ngai Tahu Tourism who own NZ Snowshoe, Dart River Jet and Guided Walks NZ. Dart River Jet is the only operator permitted on the Dart River, and Guided Walks NZ is the only company permitted access to the Ultimate Nature Experience wilderness area. Justine flew Air NewZealand from Auckland to Queenstown return and stayed at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Queenstown. Skis, snowboards, snowshoes and outdoor sports gear for all seasons: Outside Sports has shops in Queenstown and Wanaka so you can rent gear from one shop and return it to the other. ## Hotel Anassa – Queen of the Mediterranean Sea Source: https://travelmemo.com/cyprus/hotel-thanos-anassa Anassa – with a name that means “queen” in archaic Greek, little wonder that the hotel is known as the “Queen of the Mediterranean.” And it does indeed reign, dignified and slightly elevated, located on a sensational private stretch of the coast between the small town of Polis and Latchi, a picturesque fishing hamlet. Anassa Hotel and the Mediterranean Sea viewed from Neo Chorio Originally we only wanted to visit Designhotel Almyra – one of the three Thanos Hotels. Although we tried to explain to dear Thanos, managing director of the Thanos Hotels, that we rather like boutique and design hotels, he insisted that we visit the “queen” among his hotels. The Anassa is nothing less than a member of the “Leading Hotels of the World.” Driveway with small fountain So, consumed by curiosity, we set out for the 5-star hotel on the Akamas peninsula on the northwest tip of Cyprus. Hotel Anassa Cyprus, island of the gods, looks back on 9,000 years of history. Besides cultural sites and many legends of Aphrodite, the island also beckons with its natural diversity. The hotel is beautifully situated directly on the dark blue, shimmering Mediterranean, surrounded by unspoiled nature. In typical Mediterranean building style, it has white walls under clay tile roofs, wooden doors, and wooden shutters on the windows. Picturesque flagstone lane in the Anassa Resort The scent of the colorful, deep pink oleander blossoms and of a variety of other botanical wonders creates a feeling of great ease, heightened when strolling through picturesque lanes to the main building as you are reminded of the island’s rich cultural heritage by Roman mosaics, antique Greek motifs, and evocative frescoes along the way. Amphorae in a passage As time wore on, I seemed to feel the spirit of Aphrodite invade me. She is the Greek goddess of beauty and love who, so legend has it, rose out of the sea here on the Cyprus coast. No wonder then! Lounge with gorgeous view of the Mediterranean The rooms and suites The hotel operates a total of more than 166 extremely stylish rooms and suites. As it happens, you never notice its sheer size, because the entire resort is laid out in the style of a traditional terraced Byzantine village. Each room’s interior is a fresh Mediterranean-style mix of chalk white walls, warm woods, fabrics in natural colors, and forged iron accents. Diverse accessories create strong color accents and contrasts. Our Junior Suite Almost all rooms, incidentally, face the sea and come with wonderful views! Some of the suites even have a private pool or Jacuzzi! The scene from our balcony Where Aphrodite and Adonis said good night Special highlights of the house are two exclusive Adonis & Aphrodite Suites of 122 square meters each! Enter one of these sumptuous abodes, and you could swear you feel something in the air, like electricity. As curtains softly wave in the breeze, the imagination takes flight and you think of Aphrodite and Adonis turning in for the night. By now I really did feel a little like Aphrodite personified ;-) Too bad, then, that my Adonis was busy photographing the suite from all imaginable and unimaginable angles! Canopy bed in the Aphrodite & Adonis Suite Dining nook in the Aphrodite & Adonis Suite Well, never mind, back down to earth. The suite inside and out is simply overwhelming. Besides a romantic canopy bed, it has an opulently appointed living room, luxurious baths and on the terrace is a private Jacuzzi with a sweeping view of the sea and the Akamas peninsula. Whirlpool with a view Wow, there is no way to top this, you say to yourself. Oh…well…but what do you know! There just happens to be the palatial Anax Suite, “Anax” meaning “king” in ancient Greek. As it happened, it was already taken during our stay ;-) The hotel restaurants There is also no shortage of heavenly cuisine at the Anassa. Four restaurants, overseen by Executive Chef David Goodridge work their magic, turning seasonal and regional products into dishes fit for olympian gods. Amphora is the main and family restaurant, where you can also enjoy a varied breakfast in the garden with a bonus spectacular view of the sea. In the evenings, they serve up a buffet loaded with locally inspired dishes. Garden of the Amphora Restaurant The exclusive Helios Restaurant, inspired by the modern cuisine of the French Riviera, in the summer captivates with its idyllic garden and its wonderful olive trees; compact storm lanterns suspended from the trees help create a heavenly summer evening romantic mood. Lanterns and olive trees on the Helios dining terrace And if you have a weakness for Asian experience and fusion cuisine you can let them spoil you in Basiliko. In Pelagos, seafood lovers can enjoy fresh-caught fish and shellfish — straight from the sea, of course, not the nearby pools. Restaurant terrace near the pools During our stay, we took in a Cypriot evening on the hotel’s own “village square.” It came with traditional foods, live music, and a barbecue. It created a very special atmosphere: authentic and enjoyable and with really fine food! Anassa’s “village square” with chapel Restaurant tables on the hotel plaza The Thalassa Spa The Roman-style spa area comes with its own mystical aura. My imagination ran away with me again: would I turn into a beauty goddess by using the choice products based on the sea that they provide here? And what might they propose for my Adonis? Roman-style spa lounges with pool Relaxation room We had an extraordinarily pleasant stay at the Anassa. This hotel resort is not just a stylish venue for rest and relaxation. It is a colorful, authentic refuge and a picturesque stage for romance a la Aphrodite and Adonis. Come and see for yourself! Many thanks to… Thanos Michaelides for the generous invitation! Thanos Hotels and Resorts is a family-owned enterprise, directed by Thanos and his sisters Natasha and Anna. Many thanks also to Sabine van Ommen and Linn Villard for organizing and coordinating our visit! Check out prices and availability on booking.com. ## Design Hotel Almyra on Cyprus – Style & Dine by the Beach Source: https://travelmemo.com/cyprus/design-hotel-almyra-paphos Design Hotel Almyra sits in an idyllic location surrounded by a large garden complex right next to the sea. The lively center of Pάfos with its old fishing harbor and archeological dig sites is just a few minutes walk away. Here is more on the design elements: After we had spent three wonderful days in northwest Cyprus in the Hotel Anassa, we still wanted to experience its sister hotel Almyra. Its sign says that it’s the only design resort on Cyprus… The hotel entry and the lobby most definitely are stylish and were an immediate hit with us. Almyra Hotel entry Almyra actually means “aroma of the sea.” You indeed do savor the sea air, especially in the mornings and evenings, since the various hotel restaurants all come with open seaside terraces. For our readers’ sake, we diligently ate our way through their menus. Hotel restaurants in all weight classes Downstairs on the seaside promenade we found the Ouzeri Restaurant decorated in typical Cypriot style. The fare is light, with Greek salads, mezze, or local fish and seafood. In the evening, the house minstrel with guitar fills the place with his romantic songs. Romantic ambiance in the Ouzeri Restaurant Just upstairs from the Ouzeri, next to the main pool is the Japanese-inspired Notios Restaurant. It seduces not only with its fine sashimi and nigiri sushi but also with its elegant terrace and view of the Bay of Paphos. There are only a few tables at the very front, so reservations are recommended! Terrace of the Notios Restaurant A few steps above the main pool reigns the Mosaics main restaurant where mornings and evening they set up a generous buffet. This must be why it is also very popular with families. Interestingly, you can also sit down to breakfast in the Restaurant Eauzone of the Almyra Spa. Next to the elongated pool, enjoy one of three light à la carte breakfast sets in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere. Heavenly! “Breakfast in paradise” in the Almyra Spa And last but not least, you can go for snacks and drinks in the Helios Lounge Bar next door to the hotel reception. Definitely a venue to be enjoyed with the sun setting… Stylish lobby in the Almyra Hotel Brandy sour and pineapple-coconut libation And anyone still not satisfied after all this can enjoy excellent French cuisine in the Amorosa Restaurant next door in the Annabelle Hotel. Our fish dishes were exceptionally well-balanced flavor-wise. A fine address! Incidentally, the Annabelle Hotel happens to be the third of three Thanos Hotels on Cyprus. And since Thanos himself had invited us to stay at the other two, we at least wanted to be able to say we tested Annabelle’s kitchen. We surmised from the rooms, which are furnished in rather classical fashion, that the hotel positions itself to attract an age group above ours. The rooms and Kyma suites The Hotel Almyra’s 189 guest rooms are divided among the two main buildings and adjacent suite wing. Similar to the Anassa, these interiors are done in an airy-Mediterranean mix of chalk white walls, warm woods, naturally-colored linens and light blue sofas and easy chairs. Blue solar shades on the windows suffuse the rooms with a comfortably cool blue ambiance. A real achievement, given the nearly year-round heat on Cyprus. Elegant blue shades We splurged on a Kyma suite (“kyma” is Greek for “wave”). The Kyma suites with their private patios are located right by the sea. Our Kyma 08 moreover was protected from the aggressive sun by a venerable olive tree. Perfection! But we recommend the Kyma suites for another reason: their amenities as described help them live up rather more to our notion of a “standard” room than the hotel’s regular rooms. Our Kyma suite patio with olive tree A stairway takes you up to the highlight of the Kyma suites — a 44 square meter roof terrace with a breathtaking view of the Bay of Pάfos. Sunsets don’t get much better than this… The roof terrace of the Kyma suite wing Sunset behind the medieval harbor fort Check out prices and availability here: Regarding Paphos: Excursion destinations in Paphos We mainly went to Cyprus for the golf. All four of its 18-hole courses are located in the western part of the island and are relatively easy to reach from Pάfos. But pay attention with the rental car: The driver will benefit by getting in on the right side because that’s where the steering wheel is located for driving in left-hand traffic…but in the golf cart better make it the right side because the steering wheel has been switched again… The British-inspired entertainment district in Pάfos starts right behind the hotel. It seemed on a par with the Ballermann in Mallorca and so we made a quick beeline around the area. Along the seaside promenade, you’ll find small, tourist-oriented shops and restaurants. A leisurely 20 minutes walk, however, gets you to the somewhat nobler seafood restaurants by the medieval harbor fort. Paphos harbor From there it’s just a stone’s throw to the archeological park. Scattered over a broad expanse of dry terrain stand ruins of churches and mosques in all color and shapes. While rated number 1 for excursion potential by TripAdvisor, their condition, mind you, is not intoxicating. Only the amphitheater still bears witness to the original grandeur of the infrastructure. Walter im Amphitheater Let it be known that near Paphos sits the rock called “Petra tou Rominou,” where Aphrodite – the Greek goddess of love and beauty — is said to have climbed out of the sea. The Almyra Hotel is an excellent jumping off point for day trips for golfers, gourmands, and sun worshipers. Judging by the high kid quotient, the little ones apparently also find it to be a lot of fun. The graying set can get away from it all in the Almyra Spa with its in-spa restaurant and pool. Very handy ;-) Almyraspa pool and restaurant Check out prices and availability here. Our thanks this time go to… A sincere thank you to Sabine van Ommen of her eponymous PR Agency for acting as our intermediary with the Thanos Hotels! And an equally big thanks to hotel owner Thanos and his two sisters for the generous invitation! We really had a fine time, especially since guest services manager Thomas was always on hand to help with word and deed. ;-) ## Chäserrugg – New mountain restaurant on the Churfirsten range Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/chaserrugg-restaurant-churfirsten-range On Chäserrugg, the easternmost of the seven peaks that make up the Churfirsten range, since very recently shines the newest structure by Basel star architects Herzog & De Meuron: a mountain restaurant of colossal but elegant dimensions! We took its measure. Following the recent wine walking tour along the shores of the Walensee (Walen Lake), this time we tested the red Mammut hiking boots at an altitude some 1,800 meters higher: Departing from the valley station of the Iltios incline train in Unterwasser at 900 meters MASL, we hiked via Klangwelten by Schwendisee to the handy mountain station at 1,339 MASL. From there we let ourselves be hauled by cable car to the top of Chäserrugg mountain. Up to a fairly airy 2,262 MASL. Here, a vertiginous view of the Walensee and the Flums Mountains spreads out before the fearless hiker. But, since after the first hiking segment we already felt first hunger pangs, we put off the sightseeing until later and made a beeline for the new mountain restaurant. The summit station awaits the hiker or skier with lots of wood: A fan-like wooden plank curtain protects guests against the wind and weather and leads to the entry of the roughly 50-meter long restaurant. The interior is done in Swiss pine and looks very noble even with the floor being left “only” rough-finished. The elegant ceiling light fixtures hang in unbelievably exact arrays from their individual lamp cords: they all hang at exactly the same height! Meticulously hung ceiling lights The restaurant is split between a self-service area and a full-service restaurant. There you can either dine in the big main room or in one of the eating niches each with its own window and view of the Obertoggenburg. As long as thick fog doesn’t happen to block the view, of course… The Swiss steak nevertheless tasted great! Incidentally, the niches hold up to eight people depending on what they carry in the way of backpacks, etc. Refreshed and fortified, we then set out on an exploration of the new architectural masterpiece. That the pea souper fog had second thoughts in the meantime and decided to lift just made the thing more spectacular: Sitting on concrete strip footings, the stretched-out sun terrace runs along the building’s entire length. Above it, a tin roof that glistens when the sun shines connects the new restaurant building with the old cable car summit station. When the weather is nice, hikers bask in the sunshine on the big front steps and listen to a fitting Alphorn concert… View from the mountain restaurant Signposts on top of the Chäserrugg Alphorn blower on the Chäserrugg Panorama circle trail and Blumenweg Very conveniently, on the Chäserrugg you will find the Rosenboden, a sweeping high plateau. The signposted Blumenweg through it (“flower trail”), all of 3 km long with just 60 meters of height differential, is ideal for doing an easy digestive walk. Besides the mentioned view, not infrequently you get to see ibex. They rest majestically on rocky outcrops and occasionally scratch their backs with their horns. Spa treatment for the upper classes, you might say… Mountain restaurant Chäserrugg Ibex with view of the Walensee View from the panorama trail Hiking with Mammut As mentioned at the start, we were under way with Mammut gear, because we were testing the hiking shoes: After a (problem-free) 20-kilometer hike from Sagogn to the Caumasee and back, this time around we tried out their wearing comfort at altitude in the thin air of the Churfirsten, knocking off the kilometers but content to run the test at the lower end of the stress profile… Our conclusion: even in the thin air, the shoes breathe away comfortably and without making a sound! Walter tests hiking boots by Mammut And here base jumper Jeb Corliss shows us how to come down from Chäserrugg in style. You can talk the talk, but, in this case. we recommend: don’t walk the walk! ## Hiking along the Walensee – courtesy of Mammut Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hiking-lake-walensee-courtesy-mammut We tested: New hiking shoes by Mammut. The test took us to, on, and high above the Walensee… Mammut Sports Group AG, Switzerland’s world-renowned maker of mountaineering and trekking equipment, has a savvy social media manager in the person of Peter Erni. He has a habit of simply shipping a few pairs of Mammut hiking shoes to points in Switzerland, and then he sits back to see what the travel bloggers do with them. We didn’t have to be asked twice and stepped into the red and black best sellers for an exploration of the Walensee (Lake Walen) area. A mammoth from Mammut with his hiking shoes From Walenstadt to Quinten Along the peaceful Walensee, you can enjoy a “wine hike.” With a caution: Coming from the town of Walenstadt, before reaching the picturesque lakeside trail, be sure you put on really “good footgear” — hiking poles would help as well — so you can negotiate the steep forest hiking trail in good shape. And they who gather their strength in Calusa Beizli before the descent (or after the ascent) certainly won’t go wrong! It was here in any event that we broke in our Mammut mountain and hiking shoes over Birnbrot (Swiss pear bread) and coffee before starting out in earnest on the acid test. Seating corner with heart in Calusa Beizli Hiking shoes by Mammut We trekked along below the majestic Churfirsten mountain range, negotiated all sorts of serpentines across roaring creeks on the above-mentioned steep forest section down to the Walensee. Standing on its shore, the wanderer gets fantastic views toward the town of Walenstadt or the hamlet of Quinten. And naturally of the vineyards, otherwise this could not be a wine hike… Wine hiking trail along Walensee and the Churfirsten range Hiking trail along the Walensee View toward Walenstadt On arriving in the car-free wine village of Quinten, head for the Alte Post wine cellar. In the small tasting room, you can sample your way through the Quinten Rebli wines Chasselas and Pinot Blanc, Blanc de Noir and finish up with the Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir). Bottoms up! Tasting room cellar in the Alte Post Since there is not much to hike beyond Quinten, the wiser course is to eat and drink on the lake cruiser that very conveniently docks right by the Alte Post and then glide in sedate comfort back to Walenstadt. Quinten boat dock and the Alte Post About those Mammut hiking shoes Mammut’s advertising campaign with a Matterhorn theme is maybe just a bit “over the top” for the Comfort High GTX Surround model, the comfortable and relatively soft shoe that we tested. Honestly, I’m not sure I would make it to the summit in them. There’s also the shape I’m (not) in, of course… Matterhorn advertising theme by Mammut But then, for mountain climbing Mammut makes a “real” Alpinist model, the Magic Advance High GTX, among others (by the way, who thinks up these names? sounds like the shoes might fly you to the moon.) As indicated at the start, the shoes came to us courtesy of Mammut. Thank you, Per Eni, for the super-comfortable hiking shoes! No way are you getting them back :-) The wine hike with stops at Calusa Beizli, at a fire pit by the Walensee, and the wine tasting in the Alte Post was organized by Nina and Thomas of Outivity. How the Mammuts fared on the Chäserrugg high above the Walensee in the Churfirsten range is recorded in our travel report on a truly spectacular hike at altitude… ## Awake from slumber: Hotel Bellevue-Terminus Engelberg Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-bellevue-terminus-engelberg In the center of Engelberg, across from the train station, the Hotel Bellevue-Terminus holds sway — with a renovated interior that might just have been kissed awake like Sleeping Beauty … Admittedly, as you are about to step into the more than 100-year old building with its classical look you expect a somewhat “fusty” hotel interior with clunky, old-fashioned furniture. But as you enter the lobby, let yourself be appropriately surprised to find that dynamic hoteliers Sina and Roger Filliger did a boffo job updating its Belle Epoque charm: a clean look and a subtle 21st-century color palette combine for a marvelously light ambiance. It really seems as if the place had just awakened from a century-long sleep…! Lounge and bar with chandeliers The Filligers took over Hotel Bellevue-Terminus in May 2009 and wasted no time having one of its wings renovated. Built in 1898, the establishment had been treated a bit like a stepchild for some time. This prompted the hotelier couple to bring their acquisition into the 21st century, both structurally and otherwise “internally,” and it looks to us like they succeeded wonderfully! The colorful interior combined with modern and classical furniture creates a cozy atmosphere and sets fresh accents, for example, in the lovingly and decoratively furnished breakfast room. Colorful and cozy: the breakfast room By the way, the Sonntagszeitung newspaper in its hotel rankings recently rated Hotel Bellevue-Terminus a new rising star of mid-range hotels and Switzerland Tourism ranks it 24th of the 35 hotels in its Best Nice Price category. The hotel rooms The interior of the 57-room South Wing was completely stripped so that a modern interior life could be breathed into it. Here also they combine Belle Epoque elements with modern details, and in places they are even newly interpreted. Superior Suite in violet Superior Suite with freestanding tub The hosts themselves like to call the combination a fusion. Depending on the room, guests sleep in blue, violet, green or goldenrod yellow surroundings — all colors of the Belle Epoque. Restaurant Yucatan Yucatan Music Food Events Also belonging to the house is the already legendary Yucatan, a restaurant with a trendy bar where every weekend there are parties and music happenings. “Things really jump” there — so we let ourselves be told. Saturday evening — let it be said, at “normal” dinner time and not stepping out time — we enjoyed a fine, leisurely evening repast. The menu selection ranges from Asian to Mediterranean cuisine and on to Mexican specialties, hence the Yucatan name… It was choice! Scottish salmon steak under nut crust with apple-ginger chutney on beluga lentils with elderberry vinegar and sweet potato pearls During warmer times of the year, the Yucatan spreads out on the sun terrace with its lounge area and turns into a summer restaurant. Potentially with alphorn concert. Local color is obligatory… The Yucatan Restaurant Engelberg golf course This 18-hole course butts right up to the foot of the majestic local Titlis Mountain and is highly varied. Surrounded by imposing mountain country you can enjoy the glorious backdrop at every hole (just not when the clouds move in). Fairway in direction Engelberg Obviously, on a golf course in the mountains you are bound to bump into animals. The wildfowl at Loch 14 turned out to be kind of special: an eagle carved from a single oak log! This hole, by the way, has it all!. Play an eagle at this short Par 4 (holing your ball in two instead of four strokes), and you get to join coveted Engelberg Eagle Club! The eagle at Hole14 before a Titlis spur Here, too, Hole 19 of 18, as is so often the case, is definitely one of the most enjoyable holes :-) No matter what, be sure to stop in the beautiful clubhouse after your round of golf. The clubhouse restaurant Things to do around Engelberg Besides the golf course with the unique mountain panorama, Engelberg naturally has all sorts of activities for energetic vacationers: hiking, biking, freeriding, golfing, or climbing — there’s something for everyone here. And, by the way, Engelberg is the jumping off point for the Titlis – one of the highlights of Central Switzerland and the only developed glacier in the area. The Gross und Chli Spannort, a Swiss “Torres del Paine” seen from Obwalden/Uri All the hiking trails your feet can bear! Our thanks go to… Warm thanks to hosts Sina and Roger Filliger for the congenial invitation and the athletic golf round! We wish you much luck and every success with your future projects and many guests! Sina and Roger Filliger after our golf round Many thanks also to Golfclub Engelberg for the varied golf round! ## A host with heart – good vibes in Arosa’s Waldhotel National Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/waldhotel-national-arosa With temperatures breaking the 30℃ mark in Zurich and the street parade on top of that we had two good reasons to escape from the city and head for a weekend in the mountains. Arosa is wonderfully situated over 1,700 meters above sea level and offers everything it takes for spending a restorative weekend in fresh air… Partly hidden among trees, the 4-star Superior Waldhotel National reigns on a small rise above the village. It is easy to reach by car but also on foot, if you arrive by public transport, just a short 10-minute walk from the train station up a slightly steep footpath. Of course, at the train station you have the option of boarding the hotel’s shuttle and letting it whisk you up to the lobby. Panorama view from our garret suite On arrival, we were offered a fresh mountain herb ice tea in welcome, and the friendly desk personnel plied us with helpful tips and brochures about all there was to see and do in Arosa. The hotel is furnished in style and offers a variety of spaces to linger in. Particularly beautiful is the sun terrace with a view of the surrounding mountain landscape! Hotel rooms Our garret suite was in the newly renovated “Chesa Silva” wing and our accommodations really left nothing to be desired! You cannot help but feel good in a generous 58 square meters with living and sleeping area, two bathrooms and large balcony with mountain view. Surrounded by natural materials, among them noble oak and slate, and looking out from high up in the garret level only added to the feel-good vibes. Check out prices and availability here. Renovation Already in the works for fall is the next renovation project. The hotel will be closed for the duration, but everything will be finished right on time for the winter season opening. “The Waldhotel National, despite the industry doldrums, is investing millions. By end-November, roughly 2.1 million francs worth of renovation projects will be completed. In addition to a complete renewal of the lobby and bar area, 16 rooms will be renovated and four new, spacious suites are planned.” Wellness The spa is divided into the Aqua Silva area and the Spa Salus. The entire wellness oasis comprises more than 1,100 square meters. The offerings are gigantic; you’ll find here a sauna as well as a Kelo outdoor sauna, a steam room and swimming pool, a fitness gym, a sanarium and herb room. It is all topped off with wonderful nature and mountain views from practically everywhere. At nearly 30° it was almost too warm for wellness, but for colder winter days this has to be the ideal place for recuperating from a day on the snow. The hotel is also ideally located for winter sports enthusiasts: the ski run starts and ends in front of the new “Chesa Silva” wing, so you can get skiing right from the hotel. And for the annual Arosa Humor Festival you can ride the Weisshornbahn direct to the Mittelstation and from there continue on foot to the festival tent. Dining Every evening a five-course dinner is served as part of the half board room rate, with a vegetarian main course if desired. Special requests were also no problem, the chef de cuisine each time had a suitable alternative ready. In the winter, two more restaurants, including “Kachelofa Stübli” (loosely translated, “Tile Stove Parlor”) with 16 Gault Millau points and the red symbol in the Michelin Guide, will open to spoil guests with fine cuisine. Our appetizer was a Superiore salmon fillet Japanese style, followed by a fine zucchini cream soup with cubed pumpkin. For the next course, we were allowed to serve ourselves at the well-rounded salad bar. The two main courses were also delightful, with each plate moreover artfully decorated. For dessert, we were served a chocolate green tea parfait with pear sorbet and, if that was not enough, you could help yourself to the cheese buffet. Evening program Every Tuesday and Saturday evening a water and light show with music sparkles on the Arosa Obersee. The hotel also offers a weekly program of diverse activities including a guided hotel tour. From the 1024 jets of the fixed water show installation shoot powerful fountain streams that move elegantly in time to music from 30 loudspeakers. 200 light sources put the show in the proper light. The colorful show on the Obersee is free and for many vacationing guests a highlight of their stay in Arosa. Activities During the summer in Arosa, you can have the ‘All Inclusive Card’ that opens up a world of opportunities to explore the area around the village. Already on the first day we took a pedalo out on the Obersee and made a leisurely waterborne tour of the lake. If you’re keen on swimming, you can plunge into the Untersee. Then, on Sunday, we wanted to scale even higher heights and decided on an excursion up the Weisshorn. The hotel offers modern e-mountain bikes for rent, which they let you take on the mountain railway. You have your choice of varied hiking and biking trails both from the Mittelstation and the Bergstation that lead to the surrounding Alps and villages. The view from the top of the Weisshorn is fantastic through 360°. Be sure to stop in the Gipfelrestaurant, which, at 2,563 meters above sea level, has the additional distinction of having Europe’s highest show bakery-patisserie. Next, we rode our e-mountain bikes toward Ochsenalp, over hill and dale at speeds up to 25 km/hour. It was an extremely fun ride on those bikes, which make getting around surprisingly effortless. Management / Our thanks Christian Zinn, managing director of the Waldhotel National Christian Zinn took over as the Waldhotel’s managing director in March 2014. You can feel the good vibes of his whole-hearted engagement not only in the hotel operation but also in very positive fashion from the people working for him. Our thanks to Herr Zinn and the entire Waldhotel crew for the “magic” Waldhotel moments. We felt super in Arosa and look back fondly on a fine weekend well spent. ## Panorama trail from Gadastatt to the Zervreila Reservoir Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/panorama-trail-gadastatt-zervreila Far back in the Vals Valley, a side valley in Surselva, at an altitude of 1,250 meters lies the idyllic mountain village of Vals. Many people visit this Grisons (Graubünden) village because of the mythic Vals Thermal Bath by Swiss Architect Peter Zumthor. In addition, the region around Vals is ideal, multifaceted hiking country. For instance, take a hike with us along the ridiculously spectacular panorama trail from Gadastatt to the Zervreil Reservoir! In the Vals Valley Traditional Vals Valley wooden chalets Things move at a leisurely pace in Vals. Lining the village square you can still find the original houses roofed with Vals quartzite tiles, and in the pastures you see sheep grazing contentedly. While we’re on the subject: the saying goes that Vals has a thousand inhabitants, a thousand hotel beds, and a thousand sheep! We may not have counted sheep, but we saw plenty of them! And, no, we did not do a systematic count of the hotel beds, but the most beautiful ones we did inspect in connection with our review of Hotel 7132 and the Vals Thermal Baths Not bad, what several world-famous architects have wrought there… But back to nature… On to Gadastatt Anyone at all athletically inclined will naturally want to wander from Vals to the local Gadastatt Mountain. The trail map will tell you that it takes about an hour and a half for an uphill 600 meters. That we could handle it we knew from other hikes we’ve done and so this time we let ourselves be lifted to the lofty heights by cable car. The Panorama Trail from Gadastatt to Zervreila But look out! The cable cars operate only intermittently. So be sure to check the hours of operation. Over moorlands to Zervreila The hiking trail from Gadastatt to Zervreila takes you over rocky hills and leafy dells — more hills than dells at this altitude — through protected moorlands and past small mountain brooks. Here and there along the Panorama Trail rustic wooden benches have been placed to let you enjoy the breathtaking picture book scenery. This is what I did to full effect. Panorama Trail from Gadastatt to Zervreila Walter takes in the Vals panorama As befits a hike at altitude, after a few easy up- and downslopes you reach the Weiler Frunt, where the St. Anna Chapel has beckoned from a rocky cliff since 1754. From here, hikers are treated to a monumental view over the Zervreila Reservoir.Phenomenal! Weiler Frunt with view of the Zervreilahorn St. Anna Chapel by Frunt Zervreila Reservoir and Zervreilahorn Enthroned way back beyond the lake is the imposing 2,821-meter high Zervreilahorn, which, by the way, is also called the Matterhorn of Graubünden. Or simply, “the Original.” So say the local folks anyway. Zervreila Dam Whatever. A descent that is all the steeper for being short brings you to the Zervreila Dam. The name is all that remains of the village that stood here and the water inundated in 1957 as the lake filled behind the dam. How about that for drama! The massive arch-gravity dam slants slightly inward in the middle. Looking down is only for those not afraid of heights… Zervreila Dam Walter about to bravely stride across Zervreila Dam Zervreilahorn After walking across the imposing dam, refreshments await on the terrace of the Zervreila Restaurant where hikers can reflect on and recover from all the overwhelming impressions. A roughly two-hour trail hike will get you back to Vals from here. After we had done the first stage to the single-lane tunnel on foot, we let ourselves be chauffeured the rest of the way by mail coach, affectionately called “Poschi” by the locals. Walter in front of the tunnel between Zervreila and Vals After all, a ride in a “Poschi” is also a kind of adventure! In those tight mountain road curves, all you heard over and over again was “ah-ooh-ga, ah-ooh-ga”! Oh, sure, you can also whoosh down to Vals from the restaurant on a giant scooter bike. We could have been talked into it. But in the end, we were grateful for the warm Poschi because, with the chilly airflow and constant braking, we would have frozen our “pinkies” off… ## Hotel 7132 – where world-class architecture meets nature Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-7132-vals-thermal-bath The mountain village of Vals in the Surselva district of Grisons (Graubünden) is best known for its famous “Vals” mineral water or the legendary Vals Thermal Baths. And if you love masterpieces by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, be prepared to fall for Hotel 7132. From outside, the 7132 Hotel built in 1970’s style will not strike you as the typical design hotel. But once you learn that the best work of star architects from all parts of the globe in on display inside, you will not be too surprised by how fascinating a place it is. After all, it’s what’s inside the package that counts!… Entrance to the hotel and thermal spa Oh, yes, and for anyone puzzling over the hotel’s unconventional name “7132” we couldn’t make heads or tails of it either at first): it’s simply the Vals postal code. Well, of course! All clear now? The rooms in Hotel 7132 You quickly realize why the hotel is also called the “House of Architects” because international big-name architects collaborated to put their stamp on the hotel’s interior. It starts with the unfussy almost puristic Zumthor rooms and goes on to rooms by the Japanese artist Tadao Ando, who let himself be inspired by Japanese tea house design. But also the Stucco rooms with their bold color hues or the Kengo Kuma rooms designed in warm oak paneling that create a comforting “cocoon” ambiance are very popular with guests. Hotel room by Kengo Kuma Hotel room done in stucco lustro The Kengo Kuma suite Te most spectacular and exclusive rooms are the suites by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma that just opened in September 2015. Located on the top floor in the main building, their nearly 1,000 square feet of space take your breath away! Enormous picture windows give the guest a brilliant view of the Grisons Mountains and the idyllic mountain village of Vals. The room appointments are done in a minimalist luxury style. The native Vals quartzite used in the thermal baths here is staged with locally-sourced wood to create a sophisticated contrast. Living area in the Kengo Kuma Suite A little note of caution: a night in the suite will set you back a hefty 2,480.- Swiss Francs. To put it in perspective, it is only fair to mention that included in the suite price is transfer to and from the hotel in the hotel’s own brand-new Airbus EC 130 helicopter from anywhere in Switzerland and close-in foreign parts (as well as impromptu excursions during your stay). Guests who prefer to go the overland route can travel by limousine (also included in the suite price) So, yes, it is spectacular if you have the necessary “change” jingling in your pocket! Helicopter owned by Hotel 7132 Vals Here are a few moving impressions of our arrival by helicopter: We swooped serenely over the Alps with veteran helo pilot Daniel Diethelm at the controls. Weather permitting you can even customize the flight route! Amazing view from the helicopter Epicurean delights at 7132 From the culinary standpoint as well, Hotel 7132 has much to offer: In the elegant “Silver” Restaurant, lovers of good food let themselves by regaled by Sven Wassmer who understudied with Andreas Carmina among others. Not long after our visit, Sven was honored with 17 Gault Millau points and the title of “Newcomer of the Year.” Hearty congratulations! Refined ambiance in Restaurant Silver If a little more “casual” is your thing, let yourself by entertained in Restaurant “Red“. Here, too, by the way, architect Zumthor’s signature concentration on the essential finds expression: you’ll find no bric-a-brac on these tables. By contrast, the dishes are prepared with loving attention to detail. And our truly charming and attentive server Edina helps us feel totally at ease and enjoy the evening to the hilt. We can wholeheartedly recommend the butter-soft beef filet! Beef filet with au gratin potatoes in hotel Restaurant Red Naturally, we did not want to let the weekend pass without a “gourmet treat”. and so on Sunday morning, we let ourselves be spoiled by a Restaurant Silver à la carte breakfast. Well, what can we tell you? Best set the typewriter aside and let the camera tell the story…but we note in any event that the breakfast easily made it into our “Breakfast in Paradise” Pinterest collection! À la carte breakfast in Restaurant Silver Breakfast at its best! The Vals Thermal Baths The unique wellness landscape of the Vals Thermal Baths, rewarded already with at least 20 architectural prizes, is made with 60,000 slabs of Vals quartzite. With them, Peter Zumthor created an homage to the ancient world of the Vals valley. Here, too, the architect reduced the bath experience to its essence, with several interior pools at different temperatures, a flower petal bath, sweat and steam rocks and a large exterior pool with a view of the idyllic mountain landscape. Thermal Bath Vals with lots of stone and water© Therme Vals Hotel guests, by the way, can enjoy the thermal baths exclusively every morning until 11 o’clock. Occasionally, “night bathing” is also arranged from 11 P.M. until half past midnight. It means bathing in absolute silence — and possibly under a full moon. Simply mystical! Quiet zone with view © Thermal Baths Vals Want to get active and explore the mountain world? We recommend the spectacular panorama route from Gadastatt to the Zervreila reservoir, which we report on here in word and picture. Spectacular panorama route from Gadastatt to the Zervreil In our report, among other things we cover the mail coach: If you feel like getting to the hotel by public transportation, you have the option of taking the legendary mail coach. The best way is to take the train to Ilanz and transfer to the yellow mail coach there. After a winding ride, you arrive in Vals, with your stop located practically in front of the hotel! Our thanks go to… Many thanks to Tamara Löffel, Head of Sales for Hotel 7132, for the generous invitation and hotel tour! Great thanks also to helicopter pilot Daniel Diethelm for the safe and impressive flight and to limo driver Stefan for taking us home. It just does not get any better! A very big thank you also to Manuela Weber of Cinnamon Circle for arranging our stay. Cinnamon Circle provides marketing services to the hotel. ## Morocco – colourful, vibrant and astonishingly-beautiful Source: https://travelmemo.com/morocco/morocco-colourful-vibrant-beautiful-country Justine Tyerman surprises herself with her daring exploits in Morocco… I travelled undercover in Morocco. Being a bit of a coward, I was a little concerned about developments in North Africa and the Middle East. And just to make me feel even more anxious about my forthcoming most adventurous trip to date, my well-travelled boss’s parting words to me were “never identify yourself as a journalist in the part of that world”. A bus tour of Turkey, cruising down the Danube, sailing the Croatian coast, travelling by train around Switzerland, driving across Italy, skiing in the French Alps and lounging around in villas in Crete and Santorini had been the extent of my overseas adventures to date. So in my view, Morocco was a highly exotic but somewhat risky destination. An alleyway lined with souks in the Marrakech medina Fortunately my good friend Robyn Galloway, managing director at Innovative Travel Company with whom I was travelling, set my mind at rest by organising business cards for me with the nice vague title of ‘consultant’ rather than travel writer. She also reassured me that guides on all her Ancient Kingdoms tours were highly experienced and left nothing to chance. I needn’t have worried. The Moroccans I met were friendly, polite, hospitable and extremely welcoming, and our local guides accompanied us everywhere. I felt entirely safe and free to enjoy this most colourful, vibrant and astonishingly-beautiful country. I ended up doing things I never dreamt I was brave enough to do. Our charming Moroccan guide Nabil was highly experienced and accompanied us everywhere Having explored the ancient souks in Marrakech and Fes with our guides during the day, I felt confident to return with a few travel-mates in the evenings to do some serious haggling with the good-natured salesmen in their tiny shops crammed full of shoes, handbags, fabrics, ceramics, bronze goods and jewellery. It was huge fun. A souk selling colourful shoes in Marrakech The famous brightly-coloured Moroccan babouches or slippers Despite being snake phobic, I was so fascinated by the snake charmers and their shiny black cobras in Marrakech’s crowded Djemaa el Fna Square, I managed to overcome my horror of them. I astonished myself by being able to study the snakes out in the open — from a distance — and appreciate their beauty and grace. Shiny black cobras in Marrakech’s crowded Djemaa el Fna Square Marrakech’s vibrant Djemaa el Fna Square I rode a camel up sharp red ridges in the Merzouga Desert on the fringe of the Sahara to watch the dazzling sunset from a sand dune mountain just 55km from the Algerian border. Later, we sat around a campfire, drank Moroccan rosé, ate a three-course feast of salads, tagine, couscous and platters of fresh fruit, and were entertained by musicians and dancers from Senegal and Mali. Preparing to set off across the Merzouga Desert on a camel trek The Todra Gorge is a dramatic gash in the High Atlas MountainsI was happy to be alone in the breath-taking Todra Gorge after my friends had all gone on for lunch. Millions of years of river erosion had left a dramatic gash in the High Atlas Mountains 160m deep and only 10m wide in places. I waded knee-deep into the river, soaked my neck scarf in the cool, clear water and gazed up in wonder at the vertical canyon walls towering above me on both sides. The only time dark thoughts ever crossed my mind was when we were exploring the ancient fortress of Ait Ben Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains. My fear in this case was not for myself but for safety of this magnificent treasure in the province of Ouarzazate. The site has become famous as a film set for such movies as Jesus of Nazareth, The Jewel of the Nile, The Mummy, Gladiator, Alexander and the television series Game of Thrones. In an unstable country, its fame could make it a target but as Robyn wisely pointed out, “This is Morocco not Afghanistan. You can’t compare the two countries.” The UNESCO World Heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou Our accommodation, a mixture of modern five-star hotels, riads (traditional Moroccan extended family homes built around a central courtyard) and kasbahs (fortresses), was outstanding. Someone must have whispered in the manager’s ear because my elegant suite at the luxurious Riad Fes in the heart of the oldest medina in Morocco was secure in the extreme. My room at Riad Fes Relais & Chateau Once frequented by Fassi nobility, my rooms had decorative grillwork on the outside of the windows, massive wooden doors that covered the windows and doors from the outside at night, wooden shutters on the inside of the windows and elaborate flounced curtains reaching all the way to the top of the 4 metre-high walls. I felt like a princess… and was treated like one too! Riad Fes, Relais & Chateaux The Terasse at Riad Fes I did have one panic attack however. I had been looking forward immensely to the cooking school we were to attend at the prestigious La Maison Arabe in Marrakech but when it came time to actually follow our teacher Amina’s instructions, I was flummoxed. My husband does most of the cooking at home so I suddenly found myself way out of my comfort zone. However our gracious dada (traditional Moroccan chef) was at my side throughout the class, helping me prepare three dishes for lunch — a chicken tagine with preserved lemons, olives, saffron and many spices, a Zalouk salad with aubergines, tomatoes, garlic and spices, and a Taktuka salad with roasted green peppers, tomatoes and spices. ‘Dada’ Amina at La Maison Arabe cooking school I needed no help however to consume the delicious lunch… or the excellent Moroccan wines. It seems I’m getting bolder as I grow older — Robyn who travels regularly to places like Egypt, Oman, Jordan and Turkey wants me to become even more adventurous and go to Egypt next… as a ‘consultant’ of course. Elhamy ElZayat, the chairman of the Tourism Board of Egypt and one of 50 people nominated to write the new constitution for the fledgling democracy is a good friend of hers. He says many positive things are taking place in his country and tourists are welcomed with open arms. Acknowledgements Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of The Innovative Travel Company, a travel company with 25 years’ experience. They are specialists in designing group and private tours of Morocco to cater to individual tastes and budgets. She flew Emirates Airlines and stayed at the following hotels: Sofitel Marrakech Lounge and Spa in Marakkech; Kasbah Dar Daif in Ouarzazate; Xaluca Maadid Hotel in Erfoud; Riad Fes in Fes, and Gray Boutique Hotel and Spa in Casablanca. ## Hollyford Track – A walk in the park Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/hollyford-track-fiordland-national-park Justine Tyerman’s tramping boots (TBs) think they are going to Hollywood… but she has other ideas. In their excitement, the TBs misheard our conversations about the forthcoming tramp. From the confines of their box on the top shelf of my dressing room, the word Hollyford was muffled and easily misinterpreted. The TBs lace up for the Hollyford TrackThe flight on the Air NZ A320 packed with foreigners, and our salubrious hotel accommodation at the Hyatt Queenstown on the eve of the tramp seemed to fit their expectations. It was not until we were collected early next morning by driver Cam who welcomed us loudly to the Hollyford Track guided walk experience and loaded us aboard our coach along with day packs, walking sticks and wet weather gear that the TBs realised their ear-ror. Fiordland National Park There was a bit of foot-stamping and petulance when they realised they were not bound for Hollywood but by the time we reached the start of the track in the Fiordland National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Wilderness area, they had untangled their laces and got themselves sorted out. Lower Hollyford Valley© Ngai Tahu Tourism Being pragmatic adaptable Kiwis, the TBs made a quick reassessment of the situation and recalled that last time they hiked the Hollyford exactly a decade ago, it wasn’t half bad. An easy-paced, three-day, two-night tramp with light-weight day packs, luxury lodges with gourmet food and wine, hot showers, flush loos, real beds with quality linen… and drying rooms where the TBs could hang out at the end of the day in cosy comfort with other TBs from around the world. Not to mention an adrenalin-pumping jetboat ride bypassing the worst uppy-downy part of the track and a breathtaking helicopter flight out to Milford Sound at the end. Besides, the Hollyford Track held special significance for them because that was where they were christened in the crystal clear Hollyford River 10 years earlier. Upper Hollyford River and Darran Mountains© Ngai Tahu Tourism We have hiked many a track since then but the Hollyford guided walk (owned by Ngai Tahu Tourism since 2003) stands out not only because of the spectacular variety of the landscape — a journey from the mountains to the sea — but also the fascinating historical, geological, botanical, ecological, zoological and ornithological context provided by mind-bogglingly knowledgeable, ruggedly handsome guides. Even the TBs with little interest in such topics, were enthralled by stories told by senior wilderness guide Graeme Scott whose passion for his subject, especially botany, was infectious. Starting from the Gunn’s Camp Little Homer FallsThe 43km low-altitude, largely flat track begins beyond Gunn’s Camp 100km from Te Anau, and meanders along a glacier-hewn valley through vivid green ancient beech and fern forests beside the Hollyford River. On day one, swing bridges take hikers over sidestreams issuing from thunderous, foaming cascades like the exquisite Hidden Falls and Little Homer Falls (60m). After a picnic lunch on a sunny, stony beach beside the Hollyford River, with the Darren Mountains towering above us, we climbed to the track’s highest point at Little Homer Saddle, all of 168m. The TBs thought it was a doddle and cracked in-jokes with the other TBs about not needing oxygen to summit that one. Justine at the lunch spot beside the Hollyford River on day one Fiordland’s highest mountain, the lofty snow-capped Mt Tutoko (2746m), named after an important Maori chief in the area, was visible from the top of the saddle, peeking through a cloud shroud. Magnificent Mt. Tutoko – Fiordland’s tallest mountain© Ngai Tahu That evening we watched Graeme fed a family of huge eels fighting each other for our left-over venison in a nearby pool, and visited a glow-worm colony whose little lights were so bright they competed with the star-studded canopy above us. The second day started with an easy walk to Lake Alabaster where the term mirror lake was obviously coined. Wisps of diaphanous mist veiled the mountains giving the place an ethereal beauty. Mt. Madeline reflected in Lake Alabaster© Ngai Tahu Tourism The lake was an important place for early Maori who used it as a waka-building centre, Graeme said. They felled logs into the lake, cut off the branches and spun them in the water for several weeks until they were water-logged and achieved a natural balance. The logs were then taken across Lake McKerrow to a village where they were hollowed out and fitted with outriggers and sails. The vessels were fast. Captain James Cook once recorded that a waka paddled by four Maori men passed his cutter at a great rate of knots. We walked across Pyke River on Fiordland’s longest swing bridge — exceptionally high and swingy — to view the start of the tortuous 20km Demon Trail, so-named for very good reason. Pyke River, Darran Mountains and Mt. Madeline© Ngai Tahu Tourism After stumbling over gnarly roots and rocks for a few metres, we were happy to jump in the jetboat with driver Jesse and bypass the dreaded Demon, whizzing down the rapids of the Upper Hollyford River and along the satin waters of Lake McKerrow to historic Jamestown. Reflections on Lake McKerrow Standing by a small plaque at the centre of where the ill-planned settlement once stood, Graeme explained Jamestown, founded in 1870, was supposed to become the capital of the South Island. He told us heartbreaking stories of years of deprivation as promised coastal supply ships sank or bypassed Jamestown due to foul weather and the treacherous Hollyford bar; a mother giving birth alone at night in a fierce Fiordland storm with flood waters lapping at her bed while her husband rowed and ran for help; the same woman and her husband slashing a trail through dense bush for days to reach a cow to feed her infant only to find the animal had gone dry; and parents who lost five of their seven children at Martins Bay. Guide Graeme Scott in story-telling modeWe also heard about the legendary Davey Gunn, “the Trampers’ Friend”, a larger-than-life bushman and cattle farmer who began guiding guests through the valley on horseback as part of his cattle musters in the 1930s. Davey became a hero on December 30, 1936 when a light plane crashed into the sea at Big Bay, injuring the pilot and five passengers, one of whom died soon afterwards. Davey ran and rowed for 20 hours to fetch help, a 90km journey that would normally take four days. He was awarded the King George VI Coronation Medal for his heroic deed. Davey died tragically on Christmas Day in 1955 while crossing the Hollyford River on horseback with a 12-year-old boy seated behind him. The horse stumbled and both riders drowned. His body was never found and there was talk he had run off to Las Vegas with one of his many female admirers. Late on day two, we emerged from the podocarp forest of giant rimu, totara, kahikatea and rata, at Martins Bay to the deafening sound of the Tasman Sea pounding the remote West Coast beach. Sunset at Martins Bay© Ngai Tahu Tourism A colony of fur seals inhabits Long Reef, the exposed headlands at the northern end of Martins Bay. The TBs showed off their rock-hopping prowess as we ventured out to see the young seals playing in pools, sheltered from the ferocious waves by house-sized boulders. Graeme warned us not to pup-nap the appealing liquid-eyed babies who were happy to pose for close-ups. The other residents of Long Reef, the rare Fiordland crested penguins, were sadly elsewhere that day. Fur seal pups at Martins Bay© Ngai Tahu Tourism Our last day was spent at Martins Bay Spit, exploring the 8km stretch of granite- sand beach and surreal, storm-blasted sand dunes. The area had been subjected to extraordinarily violent weather, and possibly a tsunami in the 1700s. We saw evidence of Maori fire sites, umu (earth ovens), and middens (rubbish dumps) dating back hundreds of years. In ancient times, the kilometre-high glacier that carved the Hollyford Valley stretched 10km out to sea from where we stood. Stunning West Coast sunset at Martins Bay© Ngai Tahu Tourism After three days, we had built up an impressive compendium of the botanical, Maori and common names of hundreds of plants and trees and natural remedies for scurvy, insect bites, wounds, vomiting and diarrhoea, depression and even impotence. Graeme said everyone should have koromiko or hebe in their gardens because of its exceptional healing properties. During World War 1, soldiers chewed the leaves to combat dysentery, and Graeme had first-hand experience of his son’s rapid recovery from a bout of diarrhoea and vomiting after chewing on a few leaves. It was also used for morning sickness in pioneer days. And because it burns very hot, hunters used it to cook moa. It will grow anywhere, he said. Another useful plant to have dotted around a sandfly haven such as Martins Bay is the native flax which produces a black jelly at the base of the plant, an effective remedy for insect bites, heat rash, blisters and gashes. Maori used the fronds to make roofing, flooring, clothing and kete (woven baskets). Cobwebs are also good for healing wounds and great for the digestive system . . . if you can bring yourself to eat them. In the evenings after hot showers at the lovely lodges along the track, we sipped fine New Zealand wines by a roaring fire, feasted on salmon and venison, and enjoyed animated conversations with our overseas track-mates, lodge hosts and guides, cheeks rosy from a day of hiking. Pyke Lodge by night© Ngai Tahu Tourism Welcoming fire at Pyke Lodge Salmon dish at Martins Bay Lodge © Ngai Tahu Tourism Selection of fine New Zealand wines At the end of the trip, we could have retraced our steps back up the valley but we took the quick and easy way out, a thrilling helicopter flight from Martins Bay Lodge down the West Coast and up the whole length of beautiful Milford Sound. It was literally breath-taking — I was on the edge of my seat, holding my breath, my heart pounding with sheer excitement for all 1200 seconds of the flight which took us close to world-famous Mitre Peak and the stunning Stirling and Bowen Falls. The TBs decided it was better than any Hollywood show. In fact they have already booked to tramp the Hollyford again in another 10 years’ time. By then they – and their owner – will be too elderly and decrepit to lug heavy packs up steep mountains and doss down in back country huts. Besides by 2025, they will have deserved another treat for their sterling service… before retiring. Justine Tyerman was a guest of Hollyford Track. She flew Air NZ direct from Auckland to Queenstown. The Hollyford Track The Hollyford Track is an easy-paced, three-day/two-night all-inclusive guided wilderness experience from the mountains to the sea, along the glacier-hewn Hollyford Valley by foot, jet boat and finally helicopter to Milford Sound. The track is 56km long of which hikers walk 43km. The low-altitude, largely flat track begins 100km from Te Anau in beech and fern forest, descends to coastal podocarp forests and ends at the sand dunes of Martins Bay at the mouth of the valley. Expert guides, first-rate cuisine, comfortable private lodges, transport from Queenstown or Te Anau, day packs and rain jackets are included in the price. Hikers carry a light pack with clothing and lunch on their first day and thereafter an even lighter day pack to hold wet weather gear and water. A maximum number of 16 guests provides for a personal experience. ## Playing breezy golf in Budersand on Sylt Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/golf-budersand-sylt Sylt. Legendary celeb island playground. Endless sand and wicker beach chairs. Gourmet restaurants at every turn. 360 degree wind and weather. This was roughly how I imagined the island in the far northern reaches of Germany to be. As it turned out, the wind regardless of direction had quite a kick to it… I’d always wanted to make it to Sylt. Kind of the way I always longed to see Zanzibar. Adding to the allure, the legendary beach restaurant “Zanzibar” flies its flag there! How could you not head for destinations with names like these… And the golf courses here are supposed to pose all sorts of challenges. Undaunted, we headed for the green expanses. Golf Club Budersand After a short drive we found ourselves standing on the frequently “invoked” and highly-decorated Budersand golf course on the island’s southern end. Let it be said that Budersand counts among the Top 10 courses in Germany! That didn’t exactly dampen our expectations… but what was dampened, and in the parking lot in fact, was our enthusiasm: to put on our golf shoes, we had to shelter in our rental car, that’s how strong and chill that Nor’easter blew! But just as it holds true in other sports: There is no bad weather, there’s just poor equipment. So we assembled all the vests, caps, windbreakers, and golf gloves within reach and then stomped with heads down, shoulders raised, and eyes squinting against the wind in direction of the clubhouse.. Let it be noted that we are talking about a round of golf in summer in late June…… The clubhouse is very elegantly appointed and offers a generous view of the golf course stretching away over the dunescape and of the Budersand Golf Hotel next door. Golf links and Hotel Budersand under fitful skies Here is one more harmless sand bunker… Once safely in the club house we breathed a sigh of relief; that first weather shock had rattled us in our bones. Of course, we did not let on and reached nonchalantly for the rented clubs waiting for us. Then we pushed off back into wind and weather and to the starter’s hut at the first tee. The nice starter wised us patent foreigners up on the pitfalls the course held in store, not neglecting to mention the stiff crosswind. Oh, really; wind you say? Then I was ready, squared up on the famous first tee. Without my own clubs. Without having warmed up on the driving range. Instead, I was wrapped up like an Eskimo. Behind me, grinning from ear to ear, stood a starter who wanted to be right there for my first tee shot. Well, so what; pressure brings out the best in us. Plus, I just knew that my flight partner Katja would dazzle with long, straight tee shots. All right, bottoms up, the club that is, and smack that ball! But, of course, do it with an elegant swing, because, as everyone knows, only a smooth, relaxed swing produces straight, long ball trajectories. Just muscling it accomplishes next to nothing. It’s counter-intuitive, but it’s a fact. Now, executing a relaxed swing under the prevailing conditions, that’s a whole ‘nother thing… Be that as it may, somehow my cold hips, cramped up arms and the strange driver came together in wonderfully harmonious swing that rocketed the ball down the middle of the fairway, right on target. It was practically an epiphany! A pro couldn’t have done it better! I could almost feel how the starter’s secret smile faded as he watched the ball with a baffled look on his face. But I might have been a bit premature; his face-splitting grin reappeared with a vengeance because – recall that crosswind! – with the ball established on a mathematically perfect parabolic curve, suddenly it was intercepted by some perfidious, invisible force that caused it to veer off in a highly undesirable direction. And so, right off the first tee I wound up in the rough made up of Sylt dune grass waving in the wind. Thanks a lot! Now Katja was forewarned. But can you believe it, even her normally straight-flying ball oddly landed on the lee side of the fairway. Wonder why… A few strokes and first-hand experiences with the wind later, the ball was irretrievably sunk in the tall grass . Naturally, this does not in the least upset the seasoned golfer, and so I straightened my little crown and reached with supreme calm for the next ball. As it turned out, it was a move I would repeat, grinding my teeth, several times as the day wore on… Walter in the relatively harmless semi-rough At least the wind came from behind sometimes. Only to turn promptly into another headwind. In between, there was probably a crosswind. And the greens, cut down to 3 mm and also rollered, at ca. 10 feet on the Stimpmeter are pretty damn fast, and they undulate like crazy to boot. Good luck getting to the relative safety of the greens, because no fewer than 90 (!) pot bunkers of the most wicked design get in the way. To extricate yourself again, you practically have to play back. Avoid these at all costs! Tricky pot bunkers by the fairway edge What comes to mind at this point but the inimitable Robin Williams and his riff on the invention of this variety of obstacle course. It has never been said better… Yeah, those Scots had some fun with this one! And the Budersand version in any case turned out perfect… … rejoice, ye who make it relatively unscathed to the noble clubhouse or the Budersand Hotel’s coffee shop. Coffee and cake in the Budersand Golf Hotel Golf-Club Budersand Fernsicht 1 25997 Hörnum/Sylt Marine Golf Club For those who want it a bit calmer, choose a wind-still day and the Marine Golf Club on 200 acres of greensward laid out in the Scottish style. On those firm, fast greens you’ll leave your divot tool in the bag in good conscience… But watch out, here, too, the pot bunkers are mercilessly deep and steep and practically even more to be avoided than at Budersand! Expertly perverse – a typical sand bunker… Clubhouse at the Marine Golf Club Sylt Marine-Golf-Clb Sylt e.G. Flughafen 69 25980 Tinnum/Sylt Sylt Golf Club And then worth testing yourself on as well is the Küstenplatz Golf Club Sylt near the Kampen lighthouse. By the tidal flats, generous water hazards impede your march to greens that are also lightning fast. There he goes again…Walter in another bunker… Golf-Club Sylt e.V. Norderweg 5 25996 Wenningstedt/Sylt Lots of enjoyment and good playing… What more there is to do on days of calmer winds we put together in this overview. Looking for a gourmet experience? Consider the Fährhaus Restaurant by top chef Alexandro Pape. This man (and his wife) have their own way with salt… And should you want to relax after a romantic walk through Keitum, the village of captains, don’t pass up the Kontorhaus! The architect couple of Franziska and Wolfgang Zaeske have created an exceptional feel-good oasis… Even an overnight stay is possible in this “tea house”! ## “Designer tea” at the Kontorhaus in Keitum on Sylt Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/tea-kontorhaus-keitum-sylt Located at the edge of the captain’s village of Keitum on Sylt, the Kontorhaus represents a special sort of venue indeed: for in what tea trading post (“Kontorhaus”) can you not only sip from a seemingly infinite variety of teas, but also select your home furnishings or, if you choose, even try living in them before you make up your mind? And in a designer’s heaven at that? Quaint Keitum captain’s village in the heart of the North Frisian island of Sylt is known for noble, reed-thatched captain’s houses with romantic frontyards ringed by rosebushes. Mentioned in records in 1216 for the first time, in 17th and 18th century Keitum a goodly number of well-to-do captains built themselves homes to live out their lives on land, which is how it got its captain’s village moniker. Enriched by whaling, Keitum was actually the main village on Sylt until the mid-19th century. Today that title goes to close-by Westerland, where visitors arrive conveniently on Air Berlin, among other attractions. Symbolic anchor in the Keitum captain’s village The vast marsh grasslands and the panorama of the Wadden Sea make Keitum a special relaxation destination. And this is exactly what the Kontorhaus Keitum takes advantage of: Located at the southwestern end of the village beyond where the tracks and Keitum’s country lane end, the cluster of buildings lies at the edge of those green meadows and offers a sweeping view of the Wadden Sea. In 2004, the architect couple of Franziska and Wolfgang Zaeske took over what had been a carpenter’s workshop until the ’80s and then a tea house. A rare tea variety: Tai Mu Long Zhu Feelingly, with trained eye, they keep adding to the fine tea assortment more and more of an esthetic and of culture: since 2006, jazzman Wolfgang Zaeske invites artists and writers to their house and, since 2012, to the adjoining tea room and its sun terrace with wicker beach chairs and a vista across grassy expanses to the distant levee. Tea room in the tea trading post Tea pots in the Kontorhaus tea room (check out the reflections without the sly photographer…) In the tea trading post (Kontorhaus = trading post) not only do the hearts of tea lovers beat faster, for here anyone can find beautiful home accessories, designer objects, collector’s pieces and antiquities – all of them acquired in the same caring and detail-obsessed way. Decorative apples The Kontorhaus Suite Hotel And finally, since 2013, a guest house also invites you to stay longer. The architectural ambiance is keyed off the color white and in countless details lets on that someone who knows their stuff has been at work here: Asymmetric door knobs make it clear where to push, the handles are ingeniously recessed in closet doors. Every shadow gap is placed exactly where it should be. All suites either come with their own loggia or terrace. With wicker beach chairs. Goes without saying… Living room in the Kontorhaus Palatial Lambert furniture encourage guests to linger, the Swedish Hästens beds let them sleep on cloud nine. Double bed in the Kontorhaus However, the Zaeskes would not have arrived where they are today if they did not already have the next stage of expansion in their sights: for today the otherwise already indulged guests lack a wellness area. But since the suite hotel with only 7 suites and an alcove room will not want to add a giant-sized wellness zone, they plan on a small wellness oasis in the front garden that couples can reserve on an exclusive basis. A private spa, so to speak. Ingenious… There are even more reasons why we highly recommends a visit to Keitum: We ate very well in the Butcherei. We also heard Salon 1900 spoken of highly. Butcherei Grill & Bar In addition to the Kontorhaus Keitum, good lodgings are to be had, among others, in the Aarnhoog Hotel or the Benen-Diken Hof. ## Restaurant Fährhaus on Sylt – not your ordinary pinch of salt! Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/gourmet-restaurant-faehrhaus-sylt The island of Sylt is justly renowned for its high-flying culinary offerings. Even in restaurants without stars and toques we feasted exceptionally well. Still, we did not want to deprive ourselves of dining in one of the gourmet establishments. We chose Alexandro Pape’s Fährhaus, known for a kitchen that is “worth its salt”. The realm ruled by this distinguished gourmet chef with two Michelin stars is located in a historical Victorian-style captain’s house. It was after we had met Alexandro Pape by pure chance in his own sea salt works that we betook ourselves with joyful anticipation and some curiosity to the Fährhaus in Munkmarsch where the star chef plies his culinary skills to the max. Blue hour at the Restaurant Fährhaus Our highly personable waiter Mr. Pötter receives us as if he had been waiting for us the whole day. In an “elegantly Nordic ambiance“ we take our seats and begin by admiring our surroundings. The place is furnished simply, unpretentiously yet the classically elegant table settings with their perfume flagons, exotic receptacles and stemware hint that what’s ahead will not be your average experience… Simple but elegant furnishings in the Fährhaus Drinking vinegar for the apéro For an appetizer, we go straight for the exquisite Prunier Caviar (nothing like going out in style!) As Mr. Pötter leads us through the menu, we blissfully sip our drinking vinegar with pinky extended and eyes closed. Finest Prunier Kaviar We have the choice of two menus of the day with differing regional focus: The first is called „Fährhaus Menu 1999 – 2015“ and is an homage to the star chef’s sixteen year career. The second option offered is a “Sardinian Menu – my roots” in which Alexandro Pape (his father is Sardinian) melds his North German cuisine with Mediterranean ingredients. Naturally they let us select from both menus to compose our own meal. Distaff sommelier Sindy Kretschmar guides us through the wine selection for each course and decants the chosen wine for us. A sovereign wine accompaniment – kudos! But before we even launch into our gourmet menu, we are warmly welcomed by the kitchen… And, instead of describing how delectable one course after the other was, at this point we will let pictures save a thousand words: A little greeting from the kitchen Confit rabbit leg and cuttlefish in creamy pecorino, marinated white asparagus tips, dessicated dates, crispbread, and herbs in warm basil and wood garlic oil Turbot poached in nutbutter on fregola and verbena risotto, bergamot oil sabayon, green asparagus, sauté of turbot wing, roast pistacchios So, are we hungry yet? We could not recommend a visit to the Fährhaus more highly! There is also a connected hotel that the people at the next table recommended. Judging from the website, it would have made a pleasant lodging option for us… Oh, and about those perfume flagons: they were intended to dispense olive oil in nicely controlled doses, but the oil’s consistency got in the way, so that this little experiment is likely to be history by our next visit. Incidentally, that Pape’s dishes are always salted just so is due not only to his infallible touch but also to his owning a salt works… The sea salt works In late 2013, Alexandro Pape realized his dream of opening his own sea salt works. “The project” took this visionary seven years of hard work. It was a long road, but his persistence and dedication paid off. The Sylt Salt Manufactory extracts salt from seawater and processes it into high quality table salt. North Sea salt has a special consistency, one of its unmistakable quality features. And, of course, it’s his own salt that seasons all of Alexandro Pape’s dishes! Sylt sea salt from the oystershell In the trim salt works shop you will find all grades of Sylt sea salt, from fine to coarse in handsome glass jars that naturally also will double as excellent souvenir gifts – there is even a “Fleur de Sylt” ;-) Filled with sea salt from Sylt In charge of the shop is the no less charming Filiz, Pape’s wife. Enthusiastically and proudly she explains how they make sea salt on Sylt and sings the praises of the “salt maker” himself. Only when the the star chef happens to come in the shop do we learn that she is his wife ;-) The Pape couple in their Sylt sea salt shop in List Enjoy! ## Longing for Sylt – Wicker beach chairs by the sea Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/sylt-wicker-beach-chairs-wadden-sea Sylt, the largest North Frisian island, is known as the “Queen of the North Sea.” After our recent brief stay, we definitely know why… Colorful beach chairs, white sand beaches, dunes and imposing coastal stretches – this is how Sylt presented itself during our visit. With its stunning variety the island cast its spell over us from the very beginning. Sylt and its trademark beach chairs go together Vista from the bluff of Sylt’s Uwe dune The varied wellness and vacation island offers something for everyone: The west and north coasts are a paradise just made for bathers, sailors, wind surfers and kite boarders. Golfers on the other hand will find their challenging nirvana in the island’s south: here the Budersand Golf Course with its grand view of the North Sea was laid out in the dunes in a way that lets no one get off the green “unscathed.” We’re still trying to tame our tousled hair and find words to adequately describe the stiff crosswind. Let’s hope we manage to do both by the time we write our soon-to-appear blog article… And off the island’s eastern part is nothing less than the Wadden Sea that was designated a World Natural Heritage site in 2009 by UNESCO. It is truly a magic draw for all nature lovers! Lighthouse at the “Ellenbogen” (“Elbow”) in the island’s northern part But visitors who celebrate lifestyle and culinary arts will also get their money’s worth on the island. For over Sylt’s foodie landscape stretches a heaven filled with incomparable stars! You’ll find everything from beach bistros to gourmet restaurants here! Among the latter, we let ourselves be entertained with food and libations to the highest standards by Alexandro Pape in Restaurant Fährhaus. Kampen and its thatched roof houses Kampen is perhaps the island’s most prominent village, with a very special flair replete with glamor and gusto. Clubs, restaurants, bars and handsome boutiques selling exclusive brands invite you to partake and linger in the village with its characteristic thatched roofs. Bulgari boutique in Kampen, Sylt Luis Vuitton boutique In Kampen, incidentally, is where you will find Sylt’s highest elevation: the Uwe dune that soars to all of 52.5 meters! (Swiss visitors, laughing is verboten!) ;-) It offers a panoramic view of the entire island. Genuinely beautiful! View from the Uwe dune in Kampen Keitum, village of the captains This idyllic village lies directly on the Wadden Sea and with its venerable captain’s houses spins a very special charm. Picturesque, angled lanes invite you to stroll among cute clothing boutiques, artisanal shops and tea rooms. #Tip! A visit to the Kontorhaus is absolutely worth it! Containing a home furnishings store, designer tea room, and romantic hotel rooms it is truly a unique place to sample and enjoy. The anchor as symbol in Keitum, the village of captains. Witthüs artisan crafts and pottery in Keitum The Ellenbogen The northernmost part of Sylt looks like a bent arm – hence the “Ellenbogen,” German for “elbow.” This is also Germany’s most northerly land location. It is a nature paradise beyond compare! The entire Ellenbogen is a bird and nature sanctuary. Even the sheep have discovered this paradise for their own! Cop in sheep’s clothing…the sign says: No vehicles beyond this point. But on the south shore of the eastern Ellenbogen, the sheep have to share their paradise with wind surfers and kite boarders who find ideal conditions here when the winds blow. Sheep and kite boarders on the beach at Ellenbogen on Sylt Sheep in the Ellenbogen Kitesurfer Ellenbogen Sylt Kitesurfer Ellenbogen Sylt Kitesurfer Ellenbogen Sylt Kitesurfer Ellenbogen Sylt You will also encounter many cyclists and hikers here; the Ellenbogen is especially suited for exploration in hiking boots. Of course, you can also reconnoiter the area by car for small fee (toll) of 5 euros. The A-ROSA Hotel Sylt The A-ROSA Sylt Resort provided fine lodgings during our stay. Hidden among the protected dune landscape on the Wadden side in the village of List, the sandy beige of the hotel façade blends perfectly with the color palette of the surrounding dunescape. Attractive decorative objects and candles accent the lobby to instantly make you feel right at home. A-ROSA Resort Sylt The room is furnished in a rather sober style but is generously proportioned and highly functional. The breakfast buffet is superb and very ample! Seldom have we seen such an extensive selection of breads. Heavenly! The right way to start the day… We were also highly impressed by the 3,500 m2 award-winning spa area! The saltwater pool is divided into outside and inside parts – and heated year round (for people like us who prefer to shower warm)! The resort also maintains an exclusive original Thalasso center with its own piped-in seawater facility, six different theme saunas and steam baths with infusions and sauna routines that change daily. Spa entrance in the A-ROSA Hotel Sylt Another highlight is the “Spices” Restaurant: Served here are fabulous Far East specialties like sushi, maki, and nigiri that are created right before your eyes. We’ll let the pictures tell the story: SPICES Far East Restaurant #Tip! Very close to the A-ROSA Hotel you have the Erlebniszentrum Naturgewalten. In this “Nature’s Forces Adventure Center” some 1,500 m² of exhibition spaces is devoted to interesting presentations like facts and phenomena covering topics like “Forces of the North Sea,” “Living with nature’s forces,” and “Climate, weather, and climate research.” The Center offers many fascinating interactive exhibits. Involving and highly recommended! Our thanks go to… …the A-ROSA Resort Sylt for the pleasant stay and the “Spices” culinary experience! Warm thanks also to Oliver Sefrin of the German National Tourist Board for organizing this visit and to Martina Bauer of Sylt Marketing for the valuable pointers! By the way, Air Berlin has daily service to Sylt – and, on weekends, it offers direct flights to the island from Zurich (and back)! ## EXPO 2015 MILAN – Let’s not forget about Milan! Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/expo-2015-milan-citytrip Don’t forget Milan? That’s right, seriously. It just seemed impossible to me to spend a whole day only focusing on EXPO 2015 and absorbing impressions on the EXPO grounds. That’s why we treated ourselves to a daily portion of Milan. Here are three bites of the city that I found fascinating. The first day, right after our arrival on the lookout for a restaurant lunch, we strolled down the Via Vittor Pisani that starts at the main train station. At Republica the following the street vista opened up before us: My mother called out “good lord,” shocked by such a brutal architecture. We all had a good laugh about it. That we’d keep coming across these buildings later on again and again and that they would actually help us orient ourselves is something we did not anticipate at that moment. Piazza del Duomo – Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Something that I find is a must-do is to stand in the square in front of the Milan Cathedral. The square was full of people; the stage for a big concert took up nearly all of it. I absolutely wanted to stroll through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II — not necessarily to be awed window shopping the luxury stores but rather to look at the dome and at the crazy floor pattern. I got an eyeful of what I had imagined. At the end of the passage my father discovered a Leonardo Da Vinci exhibit which we spontaneously included in our itinerary. Incidentally a similar exhibit will soon travel to Switzerland. From the Piazza della Scala across the Via Santa Margherita with a gelato stop at GROM we sauntered back to the Cathedral and there disappeared again into the underground metro. We caught a train for our next target, the Navigli and a prospective lunch. I went astray once more in confusing the Porta Venezia with Porta Ticino. But as compensation, we discovered a terrific vegan restaurant. RADICETONDA made it onto Marie Claire’s list of the”10 vegan restaurants that you need to put on your bucket list.“ Ha! We found it without trying or even knowing about it. Porta Garibaldi and Chinatown In the run up for this trip, a friend had commended a radio broadcast by Bayern 2 to me. That’s how I found out about Milan’s Chinatown. It promised to be fairly exotic, so we went there by metro direction Porta Garibaldi. A quick orientation and then we simply followed the Asians who led us perfectly right into its center. If you don’t have anyone you can follow, you can also get to the heart of Milan’s Chinatown on Tram No. 14. It is a narrow street filled with small shops. You’ll see kitsch cheek by jowl with antique handicrafts in their windows. A vibrant, Asian city district. On the way back we wound up on the Piazza XXV Aprile. Serendipitously, the Corso Como that starts there took us directly back to the imposing building that had prompted my mother’s “good lord” on the first day. This enormous developing area is called Porta Nuova. The hanging gardens, modern architecture and the mega project under development surprised, astonished, and fascinated us very much. It is a parcel of monumental, modern architecture and not at all classical Italian. The Navigli My hairdresser was the source for this secret tip. He recommended it for the place to have dinner, to stroll and just to be. The Navigli, or Canals, once upon a time were Milan’s transport arteries. Today this area is booming and there’s lots of action here, especially evenings. On Saturday morning we took the metro to Porta Genova. I had to smile when I discovered a discreet handbill with “NAVIGLI” on it at one of the exits that presumably was designed to show tourists the way. We reached the canal on Via Casale and that’s where we discovered the flea market that wound along its bank. We strolled by the stands and hardly noticed how the time passed. A bit hungry by noon time, we happened on the MERCATO METROPOLITANO. My father steered us unerringly to the grounds. We enjoyed ourselves hugely here. We were enthralled by the animated goings on in this big market hall. Here we encountered sustainability, innovation, and vitality. But instead we had lunch in the garden of IL MONTALCINO. I prepared the Insalata di carciofi freschi con parmigiano stagionato from the recipe at home but regrettably neglected to photograph it. More culinary tips Manuela Tulli of Railtour recommends Mamma Rosa. I would very much have liked to try the cuisine at Trattoria Madonnina, would have liked to visit the Pavé Bakery and in Giulio Pane e Ojo no doubt they would have fed us well. Too bad we were out of time, but there’s always next time. Gelato by GROM we did try twice and were delighted ## EXPO 2015 MILAN – Gems that dazzle Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/expo-2015-milan-gems My EXPO 2015 totally subjective highlights The way I see it, there’s no such thing as one-size-fits-all general recommendations. The way we process esthetics or themes is so differentiated and personal that we all need to form our own opinions. Thanks for this souvenir photo, mom! These are my favorite places, selected based on sentiment and hence highly subjective: Ireland A wonderful world. I think I forgot to raise my camera because I was so emotionally hijacked by this rugged, green isle full of myths and nature. Ireland created a relatively modest pavilion, but impressively grand picture worlds let us dive in and dream. Out of this world beautiful. Morocco Reading about the Moroccan pavilion a day or so before our departure, it sounded wonderful. I’m now convinced of it as well. Morocco’s treasures are presented in a colorful, very appealing manner. Little wonder then that sales are brisk in the shop next to the exhibit area. Great Britain My absolute favorite venue. I love wild flower meadows. I love rusty walls and I like bees. I found my place at EXPO 2015! The English not only erected a fascinating mesh beehive, they also created a unique, delicate aura that surrounds the pavilion. In the evenings, as dusk falls, when the beehive lights up, all its beauty unfolds. Belgium On Facebook I’ve read many reports on the great chefs of many countries. By chance, in the Belgian pavilion we were able witness such a spectacle, watching famous chocolatier Olivier Delvaux at work. And, of course, we got to sample his creations, too. Japan Ah, yes, the Japanese pavilion with its impressive wooden exterior. The queues always stretched forever and it closed early in the evening. We passed by it several times, but unfortunately did not manage to see the inside. Just looking at it from the outside was an indulgence. We were especially taken with the xylophone walk. By their motion and by their touches, visitors passing by the wooden members made them oscillate and give off sound. EXPO Pavilion – Japan You can see all my photos in this Flickr album . EXPO 2015 Milano runs until the end of October 2015. All-inclusive deals incl. travel, hotel, EXPO tickets, and day passes for public transit are available from Railtour. This wraparound feel-good package is highly recommended. Should you want to focus on the EXPO exclusively, a hotel near the fairgrounds recommends itself. Oh, and by the way… If you travel to the EXPO 2015 don’t forget Milan! That’s right, seriously. It just seemed impossible to me to spend a whole day only focusing on EXPO2015 and absorbing impressions on the EXPO grounds. That’s why we treated ourselves to a daily portion of Milan. In a separate article you’ll find three bites of the city that I found fascinating. We want to thank Sandra Wohlhauser and Manuela Tulli of Railtour for the generous invitation, the expert and forthcoming advice, perfect organization and the terrific documentation, EXPO and transportation tickets. The little EXPO brochure was worth its weight in gold. Many thanks indeed! ## EXPO 2015 Milan – Exposition or amusement park? Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/expo-2015-milan-exposition Put on some comfortable shoes and know that the site of EXPO 2015 in Milan is gigantic. Those were the only clear guidelines I had in mind when my parents and I departed Zurich for Milan. Getting to Milan was smooth as usual and we found our hotel quickly. That allowed us to begin our EXPO 2015 Milano adventure the very afternoon of our arrival. Dad and I studied the metro map and thanks to Railtour we already had day passes for the entire public transit network. Heartfelt thanks for those; they really made it a lot easier for us! Because the little ticket office in the metro station in front of the hotel apparently had not been operating for a while… From the city to the EXPO grounds The ride from the hotel to the EXPO drags out. It took nearly an hour. The state of cleanliness of Milan’s Metro is remarkable, so much so that more than one metropolis would do well to take a page from its book. We let ourselves be rocked and rattled along and sprayed by loudly arguing fellow riders, until we finally reached the terminus of the red Metro line M1 Rho Fiera at the southwest entrance of the EXPO. Too late did I read this article. You can also get to the EXPO grounds with trams 12 and 19. If I’d known that ahead of time, I’m sure we would have tried it, because there is so much more to see from the tram than travelling on the metro underground. The entrance and security checks are intense. They scan your bags, photo gear, and drinking bottles. Once you’re through, you cross railroad tracks on a large overpass and then at the end of another ramp that seems to go on forever you are greeted by the scent from a wonderful hanging iris garden. It took us two day to solve the riddle of the scent. An Italian soldier that had the guard duty on the ramp solved the puzzle for us: here, iris grows vertically. So, finally, there we were, standing on the great main road called Decumano and practically knocked over by it. We had no plan, simply wanting first to get an overview and then just drift. Funny, but the first thing that looked halfway familiar to me was a small mobile stand of GROM, probably Italy’s best-known and -tasting gelateria. Primed by a portion of heavenly gelato we were ready to immerse ourselves in the EXPO adventure. The exposition grounds main axis is about 1.4 km long and is lined right and left by one country pavilion and theme cluster after the other. Roughly halfway is the “Cardo” cross street with the Piazza Italia. Here Italy comes to life. Go north toward “Albero della Vita” and all of Italy’s regions are represented. In the afternoons they put on folklore and musical performances. And at the “Albero della Vita,” Italy celebrates itself totally with shows galore. The whole thing at times brings Disneyland to mind. Here, too, the emphasis is on offering spectacles. On the Decumano, so to speak EXPO’s boulevard, attractions and parades are staged continuously; there is always also some kind of circus going on in front of the individual country pavilions. The first day, we simply went with the flow of the place and didn’t get very far. The amount of impressions is immense. There is an unbelievably amount of things to see; it’s difficult to know where to start. We did not plan anything and to begin with we just tuned in to the impressive exteriors, the spectacular architecture, and the lively goings on. Fantastic exteriors EXPO Pavilion – Chile EXPO Pavilion – Japan EXPO Pavilion – Vietnam World exposition or amusement park? I wasn’t sure that first evening. Should I regard the EXPO Milano 2015 as a world exposition or as an amusement park? Is it meant for visitors from around the world or is only staged for Italy? Somethings to seemed mostly show and little substance. For example, here and there we ran into language barriers, and especially with the big theme clusters, for instance on the subject of coffee, the shell is more impressive than the content. The architecture of the coffee theme area is definitely fantastic. The individual country boxes for the most part then unfortunately suffer by contrast. A second report on EXPO 2015 Milano highlighting my favorite gems is here. The only unfinished pavilion when we were there was the Nepalese one. EXPO Pavilion – Nepal Infos, directions and web links The info brochure that we received from Railtour with the travel documents, the official, EXPO 2015 Facebook page , as well as the official website of EXPO 2015 are helpful sources for getting up to speed before getting there. I did load the app on my smartphone but wound up not using it. In various spots, you can access the overview map on touch screens, along with the daily events schedule, as well as information on the country pavilions and theme clusters. But then it happens often that you are too late for a desired performance. If you want to be on the grounds at a specific time you are better off getting organized beforehand, because the grounds really are vast. I was impressed by the information tablet in Braille, something never before encountered in this format. You can see all my photos in this Flickr album. EXPO 2015 Milano runs until the end of October 2015. All-inclusive deals incl. travel, hotel, EXPO tickets, and day passes for public transit are available from Railtour. This wraparound feel-good package is highly recommended. Should you want to focus on the EXPO exclusively, a hotel near the fairgrounds recommends itself. We want to thank Sandra Wohlhauser and Manuela Tulli of Railtour for the generous invitation, the expert and forthcoming advice, perfect organization and the terrific documentation, EXPO and transportation tickets. The little EXPO brochure was worth its weight in gold. Many thanks indeed! ## A booming gastro scene in Berlin hotel restaurants Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/restaurant-berlin-gastro-scene-berlin Currywurst (curry sausage) is legend in Berlin and you might say that makes it the city’s culinary emblem. But Berlin in the last few years has turned into a true culinary hot spot and lately it is hotel restaurants that have come into the limelight. We let the following hotels dish up their best for us… Our long weekend in Berlin came on the invitation of the busy-as-bees visitBerlin and German National Tourist Board. Here in the capital you have the most Michelin restaurants in Germany as well as a fabulous diversity of taste sensations on offer. Reserving a table is a must in the newest gastro hotspots, since with their successful combination of cool and cuisine food aficionados tend to flock here… We did not for a minute fall for the trope that treats hotel restaurants as the “step children” of the gastro scene; Berlin proves that it is just a tired myth. For during our visit to the city we lodged in the 25hours Bikini and it was in the hotel’s Restaurant NENI that we launched ourselves ebulliently on our gastro tour… Restaurant NENI in the 25hours Bikini Hotel Specializing in Israeli and Eastern Mediterranean dishes, Restaurant NENI, reigned over by scene restaurateur Haya Molcho, invites to an exotic dining experience with a view of the no-less diverting Berlin Zoo. And the view of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church and the elegant Bikini complex naturally is nothing to scoff at either. Especially at dusk during the blue hour! View from the Neni Restaurant during the evening blue hour. Table setting with olives Falafel and hummus by scene restaurateur Haya Molcho Restaurant Le Faubourg in the Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm Close by is the completely renovated Restaurant Le Faubourg in the Sofitel Berlin Kurfürstendamm — elegant, fashionable and accented with Portuguese copper lamps and other eye catchers. French Restaurant Le Faubourg Hotel bar and lobby Head chef Felix Mielke prepares five main courses in tune with the season that you order prepared either in traditional style or in a modern interpretation. Recommending the wines is Mathias Brandweiner, at 21 years of age Germany’s youngest sommelier! Restaurant Grace in the Hotel Zoo Not all that far from the animal park over by the Kurfürstendamm, the new Design Hotel Zoo has opened its doors. It’s exuberant architectural argot and high-ceilinged rooms are most inviting. Were the chandeliers color- and form-wise possibly inspired by the orangutans hanging around in the nearby Zoo? The long fireplace is optimally arranged in the lounge for enjoying a digestive after an elegant dinner in the hotel’s Restaurant Grace. The menu invites to a culinary world tour with stopovers, among other places, in Thailand (Chiang Mai salad), Italy (Ricotta ravioli) and France (rack of lamb). Chandelier in the lobby Das Stue: Restaurant Casual by Paco Pérez Paco Pérez, absolutely one of the Iberian Peninsula’s kitchen stars based in Barcelona’s five-star Hotel Arts, practices his culinary skills in the Design Hotel Das Stue, located near the Tiergarten. In The Casual, fifty shades of grey and elegant wall sconces make for a stylish ambiance. This is where Paco Pérez presents his seductive tapas creations. Tables and luminaires in the Restaurant Casual in the Hotel The Stue Main course: Cod with asparagus and baby vegetables Pablo celebrates haute cuisine in the 5 – Cinco by Paco Pérez (Spanish for the number 5, because the appeal is to all five senses). But the very first sense to be challenged is the visual, for the collection of copper cauldrons and pans alone assures a powerful flood of retinal stimulation… Paco Perez’ copper pots in Restaurant In the Stue as well, the soigné digestive is to be had in the hotel bar. In the presence of inspiration by the nearby Zoo! Chimpanzee sculpture in the Hotel Stue bar Just to venture a bit away from the Tiergarten and also to rise above it all: Renzo Piano 11, Kollhoff Tower and Deutsche Bahn at night Restaurant QIU in the Hotel Mandala Located squarely in front of the Sony Center on spectacular Potsdamer Platz is the Hotel Mandala with its QIU Restaurant & Bar and the starred restaurant FACIL. Next to Hans Kollhoff’s brick tower or Renzo Piano’s glass palace the hotel comes across almost as unimposing. But, starting with the reception, it becomes quickly apparent that we are entering a design hotel. Service and kitchen do their utmost to offer culinary art that measures up to the sophisticated design. Green Veltliner in front of the Sony Center Shrimp with coriander, fennel and risotto All we can say is, well done! Restaurant Hof zwei in the Mövenpick Hotel Berlin Also not far from the Potsdamer Platz, in the opposite direction, however, you’ll come across the Mövenpick Hotel’s Restaurant Hof zwei in the atrium of the former Siemens building. Especially during the annual international film festival, the Berlinale, this is where the Berlin Bear dances! And in Hof zwei, they won’t burn things on the stove either… Atrium Restaurant Hof zwei Oh, yeah, you bet! We also treated ourselves to a Currywurst ;-) Try the original Konnopke’s curry sausage. They have four spicy variations: heavenly / medium hot / extremly hot and hot like hell! As hot as you want – at your own risk! Grillrunner with curry sausage on Alexanderplatz Once again, a hearty thank you to Christian Tänzler of VisitBerlin for providing the inspiration! Many thanks also to Oliver Sefrin with the German National Tourist Board for the flexible organization of our stay! And, of course, a high five to Air Berlin, flying five times daily (!) to the German metropolis. In addition, Air Berlin now also offers direct weekend flights from Zurich to Sylt – look for our next report from there. Brace yourself for a not negligible crosswind… ## 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin – hip and urban Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/25hours-hotel-bikini-berlin After the 25hours Hotels in Hamburg and in Zürich both had impressed us, it was high time for us to also visit the 25hours Bikini in Berlin – and not just because of that name… Let’s be clear right from the start: anyone who expects to see scantily clad bathing beauties in the 25hours Bikini Hotel, sorry, you’re in for a letdown… That’s because the hotel thanks the heritage-registered “Bikini House” that dominates the area between the Berlin Zoo and Breitscheidplatz for its name. View from the Neni Restaurant Here’s the lowdown on the name: The landmark was originally a factory for ladies outerwear, and it had an air space in those days that separated the lower sales floors from the production facilities upstairs, giving the structure a two-piece look — kind of like a bikini! It just takes a little imagination… Got it? Entrance to the 25hours Bikini Hotel Berlin In April 2014, the rebuilt Bikini House reopened as shopping center with hotel. The basic architectural concept combined the ideas of shopping, working, relaxing, movie going and – now we’re getting to it – the Hotel 25hours, in an urban setting. It turned out great, the way we see it! The 25hours Bikini Hotel Cool, colorful, hip, nostalgic, urban and with industrial chic – that’s how the different 25hours Hotels come across in Hamburg, Frankfurt, Vienna and Zurich. In Berlin, the team around designer Werner Aisslinger plays with the contrasts between nature and urbanism in a concept he coined “Urban Jungle.” That is why you’ll naturally find the hotel’s complement of 149 rooms split between two categories, “Urban” und “Jungle”. Jungle room with view of the Berlin Zoo The Jungle rooms have a view of the Berlin Zoo. This is why you also find natural materials and colors and even hammocks in the larger “XL” rooms. The Urban rooms offer a view of another Berlin landmark, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church on Breitscheidplatz. The room design on this side is more urban and a little more on the edgy side. Urban room The reception area invites the guest to linger; besides hammocks, you’ll find other tongue-in-cheek elements to cozy up to. Add to that a fine smoothie or a piece of cake from the in-house bakery and you’re ready to enjoy the urban ambiance with a view of the Zoo. It’s somehow fitting that while swinging gently in a hammock yourself you can watch the Zoo’s orangutans move gracefully hand over hand with long arms through their own rope jungle landscape. Hammocks in the lobby Bakery in the 25hours Bikini The witty wall letterings and drawing by the way were done by Japanese artist Yoshi Sislay. Wall decoration by Yoshi Sislay Many thanks to young, good looking Kalle (the name all his female colleagues call him) for being our friendly hotel tour guide! Alas, we need to clarify for blogging accuracy’s sake that this is how he described himself when it came to determining which member of the reception crew would act as our hotel tour guide. That bit of self-advertising again brought not a little protest from his female colleagues, but he did a great job taking us around. The rest is probably best left to the eye of the (female) beholder ;-) Receptionist Kalle in full motion Check out prices and availability in the following search box. Restaurant NENI and the Monkey Bar A great attraction, and not just for hotel guests, are the Restaurant and Monkey Bar on the top floor with a brilliant view of the Zoo and the city. Monkey Bar with view Alive and well in Restaurant NENI is the concept of the Austrian scene gastronome Haya Molcho by which dishes are shared and experienced, “en famille,” as it were. The kitchen offers a culinary mosaic of Israeli, Moroccan, Spanish, German and Austrian influences. Delectable! And Nino the waiter was extremely attentive and explained the concept to us in detail. Thank you, Nino, well done! Nino the waiter in Restaurant Neni As for the ambiance – we’ll let the pictures tell the story. It’s simpler that way… Table setting in the Neni Restaurant Our thanks go to… … 25hours Berlin and Christian Tänzler with VisitBerlin for the invitation! Many thanks also to Oliver Sefrin of the German National Tourist Board for organizing this trip. And, of course, a great big thank you to Air Berlin, flying five times daily (!) from Zurich to the German metropolis. In addition, starting on weekends Air Berlin now also offers direct flights to Sylt where we’re also slated to report from soon… Thanks, Air Berlin! ## Homing Instinct – Home Swapping Source: https://travelmemo.com/new-zealand/homing-instinct-home-swapping While meandering through some properties on my favourite accommodation website I found a gorgeous home in Auckland. Staying there was like living inside the pages of a design magazine!… Prisms of bright light dance across the warm limestone floor and flit up the wood-panelled walls like fragments of a fractured rainbow. Standing in the living room at Maureen and John’s house, I’m mesmerised by the play of the sun’s rays shining through the crystal pendants suspended from the horizontal Italian chandelier above the dining table. Italian Chandelier My head is on a swivel as my eyes absorb the myriad of artworks and design features in the six-year-old split-level house built into a hillside, a block from bustling Parnell Village in Auckland, New Zealand. Rainbow fragments on the feature wall Staying at the luxurious three-bedroom, three-bathroom home is like living inside the pages of an art and architecture magazine… or a sumptuous design store. And yet the place is cosy, tranquil, airy, light-filled and above all welcoming and homely. The architect has made clever use of eaves suspended from rods below the two-level single-pitch roofline, angled to allow the living areas and bedrooms to be floodlit with warm sunshine in winter but shaded from the intense heat of the summer sun. Sitting room Maureen, a graduate of the three-year Nanette Cameron Interior Design course, aptly describes the eaves as “eyebrows” above the windows. Eyebrows over the windows Home swapping I found this gorgeous home while meandering through some of the 68,000 properties on my favourite accommodation website, Love Home Swap, an international house swap platform. Long since sworn-off cramped hotel rooms and bland motel units for our rare family get-togethers, I could hardly believe my good fortune at finding such a perfect place — a few minute’s walk from some of the city’s best cafes and markets and a stone’s throw from Auckland Domain and the War Memorial Museum. Parnell house and garden Swapping homes is the next best thing to being at home. A family can spread out, sit by the fire and chat, watch TV, stay up late, sleep in, cook meals, do the laundry and make-believe they are actually at home. However, Love Home Swap comes with a warning. It’s dangerously addictive and makes you dissatisfied forevermore with “ordinary” forms of accommodation. Staying free at beautiful spacious homes around the world creates high expectations so on the rare occasion when we have ended up in a motel or hotel, there has been an undercurrent of grumpiness about lack of space, privacy and character. This time however, arrangements fell into place with great ease. We agreed to a points’ swap whereby Maureen and John earned credits for each night we stayed at their house which they can then “spend” at other Love Home Swap members’ homes anywhere in the world at any time. After the swap is agreed and security provisions met, the site allows you to communicate directly so Maureen and I had a chat before we arrived. A keen swapper, she told me of their recent non-simultaneous swap with an Italian couple whose fabulous apartment is near the Trevi Fountain in Rome. “They loved our place and now we are going to their place. We are so looking forward to living the Italian lifestyle for 16 days,” she says. There is a high degree of childlike excitement and anticipation when you arrive at someone’s home, unlock the door and tiptoe through the rooms like Alice-in-Wonderland. That’s part of the appeal, especially at a house like this where there is so much to discover. The first of many striking design features is dramatic palisade timber screen that covers the front of the house. “The palisade references Maori design and has multiple purposes providing shade, a subtle and aesthetic form of security, privacy and ventilation,” says Maureen. Maori skirt or piupiu At the entranceway I find myself patting the stunning off-white limestone floor tiles which begin at the front doorstep and continue throughout the house, inside and out, apart from the master bedroom. Quarried from limestone millions of years old near the ancient city of Persepolis in Iran, the tiles are practical as well as aesthetic. Laid on concrete which has a thermal mass underneath, they make the house warm in winter and cool during hot summer months. From the weighty timber front door, steps lead invitingly to the living spaces on the first level of the three-storey house. Maureen describes the entrance stairwell as “a cooling tunnel before entering the light, open space of the living room”. The juxtaposition of dark and light is dazzling. There is a sense of surprise and delight on arrival at the bright, airy open-plan kitchen, dining and living area at the top of the first flight of steps. I like the clean, uncluttered lines of the state-of-the-art kitchen with its three-metre long white crushed quartz bench, warm-toned, American maple cabinetry, Smeg double oven with gas hobs and pantry concealed behind sliding frosted glass doors. Kitchen When the tall sliding doors on two sides of the living space are pushed back, the area opens onto a sheltered tiled terrace and garden planted mainly in natives to attract birds. “It’s like cooking outside,” says Maureen. “We love it.” The dining area adjacent to the kitchen has a 10-seater oak table created by Ashton Grove paired with black leather dining chairs from Studio Italia. Dining table and chandelier Above the table is a modern eye- and light-catching crystal chandelier by Anthologie Quartett with an impressive international lineage. “It was designed by two Italians, made in Germany and purchased from Indice in Ponsonby. It took me three years to find the right piece,” says Maureen. An L-shaped six-seater lounge suite, covered in a gorgeous glazed linen with patterned cushions nestles beside a marble coffee table in front of an elegant gas fire which we light in the evenings with a flick of a switch. A back-lit wall in the living area features four delicate ceramic vessels by Hana Rakena and a Carrara marble “Saint de Glace” bust Maureen purchased in Provence. It’s smooth on one side and rough on the other, inviting touch. They sit well against the wamth of the maple cabinetry and panels, another constant throughout the house. Maureen likes smaller spaces that lead from larger rooms like the study and sitting room that open off the living space, making ideal retreats, she says. On the second level, two lovely garden-facing bedrooms share a bathroom and guest powder-room. Guest bedroom ‘Peony’ photograph in the guestroom The master bedroom on the semi-mezzanine third floor, is deliciously airy with two walls of sliding windows that are thrown open in summer to provide a sleeping-on-the-balcony effect. Master bedroom “Its elevated position just below tree-top height provides a wonderful view of the tuis, wood pigeons, fantails and kingfishers that are attracted to the native trees and plants in our garden. “On New Year’s Eve and other city celebrations, our ‘tree-hut’ offers a spectacular view of firework displays launched from the Sky Tower, domain and harbour.” Aqua tones and the only wall-to-wall carpet in the house enhance the quiet ambience of the room. The master bathroom is fitted with a free-standing bath, sloping marble basin and glass-walled shower. Limestone tiles with ancient watermarks cover the floor and a wall. Light floods in from high louvred windows. Free-standing bath Marble handbasin Persian rugs, artworks, photographs and a myriad of lovingly-chosen objets d’art add colour and intrigue to the home. Maureen’s favourite piece is “Il Grande Libra”, an unusual double-sided book by Italian artist Raffaele Rossi which sits in an eye-catching position on a shelf by a tall window at the top of the entrance stairs. Maureen and John found it in Galleria Regina in Venice. Il Grande Libra “We could have bought many works from that gallery — not only do we enjoy the art for its own sake but it also evokes wonderful memories.” Precious family treasures and heirlooms — a piupiu (Maori skirt) and two small pieces of pounamu (greenstone) given to John’s great grandfather in the 1850s — hang near the top of the stairs. Among many other artworks are a Hope Gibbons’ painting in the sitting room entitled “Challenge” and a limited edition print, “Peony” in the guestroom, one of several beautiful photographs by Anna Kilgour Wilson. When we could drag ourselves away from our home comforts, we wondered around the museum and domain and shopped at Parnell’s famous La Cigale French Markets to buy fresh produce for dinner. But mostly we stayed home, reacquainting ourselves as a family. It was a blissful interlude which further reinforced my LHS (Love Home Swap) addiction. I’m already plotting our next reunion but with more than 68,000 homes in 160 countries, the choices are mind-boggling. Meanwhile, Maureen and John are planning to spend their points in Europe later this year. Find Maureen and John’s house on love home swap here. ## Gili Lankanfushi – Barefoot paradise in the Maldives Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/gili-lankanfushi-barefoot-paradise-maldives All right – we knew we’d selected a 5-star resort on Gili Lankanfushi that would leave nothing more to be desired. But even so, what we found there far exceeded our expectations – welcome to an earthly paradise! Boats on the beach Waiting for us upon our arrival at the airport in Malé was a tanned, friendly Maldivian with a dazzling white smile and a placard made of noble wood (no paper or plastic here) that had “Gili Lankanfushi” carved into it. Barely had we settled into the cruiser waiting to ferry us to the island, we were “made” to take off our shoes; on Gili Lankanfushi they go by the motto “No Shoes, No News.” From that moment on we would only move about on bare feet – if at all… And this after I’d had packed our shoes for this trip faster than ever before – just flip-flops, oh yeah! By cruiser to Gili Lankanfushi – first, off with their shoes! Gili Lankanfushi – the island The paradisical isle Lankanfushi is part of the northern Malé atoll and is just 20 minutes by fast boat from the international airport on Malé. Friendly hosts (the term used on Lankanfushi for all who look after the guests – from waiters to housekeepers to the resort manager) already welcome us on the cruiser as it heads to the island, and we begin to learn more about our destination. Ready and waiting – your personal paradise. As we tie up at the dock, we are yet again met by an entire delegation this time, including resort manager Brad and our Ms. Friday – our personal “butler,” emulating the way Robinson Crusoe named his faithful companion. All guests (or villas) on Lankanfushi have a Mr. or Ms. Friday assigned to look after the guests for the duration, arrange excursions or fulfill whatever other whim they read in their eyes. Wow… An entire delegation awaiting our arrival Our Ms. Friday is Chinese and her real name is Rei. She takes us on our first tour of the island in a golf cart, introducing us to the beautiful white sand beaches, the restaurants, the pool bar and the dive center. She also helps us add the resort’s “open air movie theater,” library, boutique, souvenir shop and spa to our mental map. It only takes this first tour for us to be captivated by the magnificently located island with its rich green palm and mangrove forest encircled by the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. We find ourselves in a dream that becomes even more surreal the moment we step into our water villa… The water villas The 45 water villas built over the water on stilts are incredibly spacious. We first enter an “open living room” with an instant gorgeous view of the ocean and a sundeck with direct access to the water – what else? Now, that’s the way to have a drink… Our water villa’s sundeck Seating corners, dining table, sun loungers – everything is arranged for enjoying the ultimate relaxing vacation in a tropical paradise to the hilt, with ocean everywhere you look. We start our mornings with an all-pervading feeling of happiness: simply heavenly is the only way to describe starting the day with a (still) cool breeze gently ruffling your hair and the ocean’s soothing sounds in your ears! This way to the open-air shower The bathroom, too, is gigantic, generously laid out in an open plan with an outside private open-air-shower area. With a little luck, through the glass porthole in the floor, you get to watch a small shark or stingray swim by below. Beastly beautiful! A “small” stingray comes to visit. But where exactly is the bedroom? Possibly upstairs? Way off base – because upstairs there is another sundeck with view available. The no-less roomy bedroom is in line with the open bath and open living room. It is fully enclosed because it is the only air-conditioned room. Still, generous window walls let you watch the sunrise and sunset from inside. We guessed that the villa is some 20 meters on the long side! View from the bathroom Bedroom with view Walter thinks he deserves an office like this from his employer… Eating beautifully on Gili Lankanfushi As the name implies, the “Main Restaurant, “ built in rustic wooden style, is the principal restaurant where they offer both an extremely varied breakfast and put together individualized menus in the evenings. In no way, however, is this a run-of-the-mill restaurant, as the pedestrian name might suggest. While we were there, meals were prepared according to themes. So, for example, there was an “Asian food market” for which mouth-watering delicacies from the Asian realm were prepared fresh at various stations. In flying skillets. Seriously! Delectable appetizer To go it one better, one evening they served a Chef’s Gourmet menu. The food is delicious; vegetables and spices come mostly from the island’s own organic garden; the plates and buffets are arranged like little works of art and the super-busy patissier sees to it that each of the menus concludes with a brilliant treat. Tuna Tartar Confit lobster Banana mousse Pudding You can enjoy a light midday lunch in the “Overwater Bar” or can let yourself be cooled off with fine fruit juices and drinks. The bar sits on stilts over the water, and it hardly bears mentioning that here, too, you have a wonderful 360 degree panorama of the turquoise blue sea. Overwater Bar and Restaurant All you lovers of Japanese cuisine, do not fail to try the “By the Sea Restaurant”! We savored a first-rate Japanese gourmet menu here! If you like, you can watch as sushi and sashimi specialist Michio prepares her tasty rice and fish compositions behind the sushi bar. Because tuna is a local fish in these waters, she’s on her home game naturally. It tastes outstanding! Oh, yes, and there is also the gourmet wine cellar for staging wine and chocolates tastings. We indulged in a “wine & chocolate tasting” put on by sommelier Rohan. We wrote it up in a separate report to save space… Dining in the sunset Should you hanker for still more togetherness just for two: one of the possibilities for getting away on this paradise island is that you can ask Mr. or Ms. Friday any time to arrange private dining by moonlight on your roof terrace or anywhere along the beach. What a sunset!… Also feasible is spending the night under the star-strewn sky over your private roof terrace. We decided ultimately to skip this option, since even at night the 29 degree ambient temperature is rather warm for sleeping. Instead, we allowed ourselves to cool our bedroom down to a more comfortable 27 degrees… The “Meera Spa” Naturally, the “Meera Spa” is also built on stilts over the water, once again providing a simply wonderful ocean view. Offered here are various massages and treatments. We treated ourselves to a Balinese massage while watching the fish traffic below us through the glass floor… The relaxation room is – what else – an open veranda with ocean panorama. Infinitely relaxing! Sofa in the Meera Spa Our two therapists with sun umbrella… Besides the treatment rooms, you’ll also find a sauna, steam bath and, of course, the “obligatory” fitness studio. With our best weary look, we made a big detour around it every time. Also on offer in the mornings are yoga and tai chi sessions, for that highly relaxed start of a new day in paradise. Our thanks… … go to Roberto Arganese, Director Sales & Marketing of Gili Lankanfushi for the hospitable invitation! Hearty thanks also to Fazla Jaleel, PR & Marketing Communications Executive, who coordinated our stay. Also, host managers Steven, Brad und Aziz, waiter Erfan, sommelier Rohan, dive master John, marine biologist Debs, Michio and the many cooks and countless other helpers made ours a heavenly stay ! And, last but not least by any means, our best thanks to Rei, our Ms. Friday for all the good “pampering.” ;-) …and not to forget Bob, the gray heron, for always entertaining us, which got him his very own article here. Grey heron in front of the Robinson Crusoe water villas ## The Grey Herons of Gili Lankanfushi Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/grey-heron-gili-lankanfushi I knew from our trip preparations that there are grey herons in the Maldives. But little did I know how much effort it would take to find and photograph them… In getting ready for our voyage to Gili Lankanfushi in the Maldives, I learned from one of our fellow bloggers, that in fact grey herons live there. They had managed to catch a mature specimen in one of their snapshots. It was on the beach somewhere and apparently quite far from the water villas, but not bad! Then, on our first day there, I also caught sight of a grey heron on the beach across from our water bungalow’s sun terrace. Gone were all thoughts of leisure: as fast as I could, I took off with camera and telephoto lens to capture my own specimen of the fowl. Photographically speaking, that is. Wading slowly and ever so carefully through the shallow water, I got as close as I could and actually did manage to get the odd snapshot! Grey heron in front of the Robinson Crusoe water villas That was that, I thought. The little fellow is in the bag. Satisfied with self and world, I stomped through water and sand back onto our sundeck, to savor the day after my successful large animal hunt. A bit later, I was somewhat surprised when we spied yet another grey heron on the ride back from a dive. This time it was a stately specimen that greeted us by the entrance to the lagoon. Right up front there on “One Palm Isle” it was stalking through the shallow water on the lookout – for divers and no doubt even more so for finger food. One Palm Isle off Lankanfushi Island Imagine my even greater surprise the next morning when we were sitting at breakfast on the beach and another one of these grey herons was there to keep us company, and this time in really trusting fashion almost by our table! The excitement! Erfan, our waiter, seeing our big eyes and cameras going into ready mode, with a laugh that let his snowwhite teeth shine, finally let on that this was “Bob,” the island’s grey heron… He came at breakfast time every day, because now and then the tourists brought him something from the fish buffet. Well, great! Waiter Erfan and Katja Only now did I notice how Bob would hurriedly stalk to the next table each time that new guests arrived for breakfast. And now I also knew how that “intrepid” photo on this other blog came to be: not after an adrenaline-fueled hunt through mangrove jungle, but shot from a comfortable beach-side chair… Incidentally, the house grey heron was named after an investor in the resort who often passes through the island. From that morning on, Bob was a constant presence: not only did he show up daily for breakfast, one time he even paid us a courtesy visit on our sundeck! Bob on our sundeck Walter and Bob in stalking mode – who’ll be the first to blink? What an adventure ;-) ## Wine tasting in the Maldives. Really, they have wine cellars… Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/wine-tasting-gili-lankanfushi Sure, nobody flies to the Maledives just for a wine tasting. But here on Gili Lankanfushi, since they like getting it on with chocolate, which we know is not that partial to heat, they do have a cellar. That being the case, of course, there’s no reason not to lay in some wine as well. Tasting chocolate With barely repressed pride, sommelier Rohan presents his wine selection down here and combines it expertly with products made from the cocoa bean: to go with the select wine, he recommends for us chocolate with passionfruit or chili pepper or sea salt and the like. His selections really can’t be beat, and what his patissier colleagues conjure up just so absolutely lives up to Swiss chocolate standards. The wine cellar, let it be said, is not your grandfather’s idea of one: While a few stairs do lead down into the sand, they end in a room flooded by light from skylights. The room is all organic shapes that are repeated in the wine racks and the extraordinary table with its chairs. In fact, the only straight lines appear to be the shelves on which repose the bottles! “Wine cellar” Maldives style Buffet of chocolate varieties Chocolate variations with Manjari chili pepper and more Oh, and besides the chocolate, they also do lay in wine here… Wine selection and tasting The wine selection is self-consciously global. Since the Maldives must import most products, why not also a select few bottles of wine? For his Wine & Chocolate tasting, sommelier Rohan starts us off with a white “Honeymoon” Parés Balta from Spain and complements it with the passion fruit chocolate we had encountered earlier. Truly, a seductive combination! Without missing a beat, he switches to a red, a Whitecliff Pinot Noir from New Zealand, followed by a relatively young Barossa Valley Australian: Château Tanunda Grand Barossa Shiraz, a surprisingly good, medium-bodied wine from the land down under. We finished up with an Italian dessert wine (Recioto della Valpolicella) as well as a port that also goes over wonderfully with the dark chocolate. Glasses for the wine tasting Wine selection for the tasting Decorative wine glasses Laid-in wine bottles Lest I forget… On Gili Lankanfushi you indulge yourself according to the motto “no shoes, no news” (you ditch your shoes on arrival and only put them back on when you leave the island). So it was with some trepidation that we faced the thought of getting cold feet in a cellar a bit on the cool side. But even here the designers of this island paradise paid attention: so that those partial to epicurean delights don’t get cold toes, pre-warmed footrests (make that hot water bottles) are provided on which to toast those unshod feet. Is that hot or what? Cold cellar, warm feets… ## Hospitality in the Maldives: Hosted by the hosts Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/hospitality-gili-lankanfushi A good host will always be ready for his guests, will know their names and figure out their wishes and preferences as quickly as possible. We were surprised on multiple occasions in this respect during our stay at the Gili Lankanfushi Resort in the Maldives… On our very first day here, it struck us: All the workers here call themselves hosts regardless of job description. Whether they work on the service side, in the spa or the clothing boutique, the more than 280 resort employees are all simply “hosts.” And it shows in the positive spirit with which they perform their duties. Invariably, morning after morning you will find yourself greeted with a glowing smile and spoiled with so much hospitable warmth as if there were no tomorrow. At no time does their attitude come across as artificial or obtrusive. Our attentive waiter Erfan notes that we prefer non-carbonated water and in the mornings a fresh squeezed fruit juice instead of coffee. Ok, maybe just in the Maldives…That all workers daily address us by name flatters us no end! You really do feel like you are a welcome guest here. Waiter Erfan and Katja Gili Lankanfushi’s Host Village When Director of sales and marketing Roberto Arganese floats the idea of visiting the “Host Village”, we readily agree: We are curious to find out how and where the hosts live who pamper us so royally every day. Roberto Arganese telling Walter about the Host Village Part of the island is set aside for the employees and is in fact organized along village lines with a village shop, artificial turf soccer field, employee restaurant, a fitness center, surf center and a common room where they have frequent parties. These facilities are labelled in ways we find both funny and congenial: “Gili goes shopping” or “Gili gets fit” and “Gili gets together!” Simply simpatico! Entrance to the employee restaurant “Gili Licious” in the Host Village With the exception of the managers, all employees – pardon!…all hosts… live here, but that is not to say that management cannot frequently be encountered in the Host Village. And because it is a few meters from Resort to Host Village, hosts as well as guests all have their own bicycles… Bicycles belonging to hosts Gili innovates When we ask about the caption “Gili Innovates” written on a board, Roberto introduces their innovation program to us: all departments, such as food and beverage, housekeeping, engineering, and so on, are encouraged to submit new ideas every month. Suggestions can range from better or more efficient ways of doing thing to ideas for promoting team work. Recently they launched a campaign under this “Gili Innovates” program that they hilariously call “In Your Shoes” – it strikes us as funny, since no one on Gili Lankanfushi ever wears the things…Because this is one resort that lives by the motto “No Shoes, No News“. But three guesses if there is island-wide WLAN coverage or if that’s out of the question, here in the middle of the Indian Ocean ;-) Satellite dish for broadband Internet connection Well, so much for the subject of “no news”… But let’s get back to the innovation program! The goal of the “In Your Shoes” campaign is to let the management team slip into another role for a day. For instance, general manager Steven Phillips worked as waiter for a day. This forced him to listen constantly to Walter trotting out his well-worn sayings – and still keep smiling. He couldn’t have gotten a better insight into what his waiters have to endure every day ;-) Director of sales and marketing Roberto Arganese on a Sunday looked after the “private dining” in the villas. It seems to us an absolutely genial idea, this way of impressing on management what their team accomplishes day after day, and so lay the groundwork for understanding concerns that are bound to arise. Gili Innovates! and is to be commended for it. Bravo! Eco-consciousness on Gili Lankanfushi What impressed us most about the eco-chic Gili Lankanfushi Resort is how they walk the walk of environmental consciousness by working with natural and traditional building materials. But also the waste sorting was impressive (even the Host Village recycles!) Eco-thinking seems ever-present. For instance, the drinking water they distill on the island is served only in refillable glass bottles, and they give preference to imported products that do not come in plastic containers. Textiles for bathrobes, linens and towels are woven of organic materials. Most woodworking is done in the island’s own carpenter shop. And the bicycles that come with each villa are made of bamboo! Handyman Carpenter repairing the floor in a private villa Bikes made of bamboo And something that’s just being installed and now ready to be unveiled: a roughly 100 square meter raft covered with solar cells that will begin operations imminently and produce a respectable 20 kilowatts of local electricity. Gili goes green! Good for Gili, good for the planet! Sundeck in the Host Village with solar panel behind it The Gili Lankanfushi hosts contributed immensely to our enjoyment while we stayed on the island. The mere act of saying good-bye to part of our “Gili family” waving from the dock as we pulled away nearly had us feeling…a bit weepy… An entire delegation of hosts waving goodbye to us Thank you very much to all the hosts who helped make our stay on Gili Lankanfushi an unforgettable experience! Shukuriyya! ## Saying “so long” to the Maldives after nine years in barefoot paradise Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/farewell-nine-years-maldives Roberto Arganese, director of marketing and sales for the Gili Lankanfushi Resort, having lived for nine years on this Maldives dream island, in a few weeks will leave paradise for his new European base from where he will resume enticing tourists to “his” luxury resort. It should be a relative breeze – at least that’s how we see it, now that we’ve had the chance to visit this Robinson Crusoe island ourselves… Paradise on earth on Gili Lankanfushi While we were on Gili Lankanfushi, I had a chance to ask Roberto a few questions about his departure from barefoot paradise. Here is the interview: Walter: Roberto, what brought you to the Maldives in the first place nine years ago? Roberto: I started out as a tour guide in various countries and then was offered the position of “resident manager” in the Maldives by the Hotelplan Group. As a native Italian who grew up bilingual in Switzerland, of course I was primarily responsible for the Swiss and Italian markets. Walter: Did you think you would end up staying here that long? Roberto:No, my plan initially was to stay here for two years. The understanding was that you had to work at a job at least two years before getting promoted to the next one. As it happened, not long after, they made me contracting manager and later area manager for the Hotelplan Suisse Group and resident manager for Hotelplan Italy. Then, when the day came that they offered me the position as marketing and sales manager for Gili Lankanfushi (previously Soneva Lankanfushi), I realized how much I wanted to stay on because I found this country so fascinating. Walter: Why are you moving to Europe now and how do you feel about Holland as your new place of work? Roberto: My girlfriend and I want to get married and start a family. We’re both from the European sphere and so would also like to raise our child in Europe. Why Holland? My girlfriend is Dutch and at the moment it looks like we could rent a nice house in Elst close to Amsterdam. And that’s what I’m looking forward with anticipation to doing now. In Gili Lankanfushi, I have a very accommodating employer who supports me and makes it possible for me to do my job based in Holland. It’s also an advantage, by the way, because I have better flight connections from Amsterdam to all the continents. I’m going to be primarily responsible for the markets in North and South America, Europe and Japan. That means I’ll continue as a member of Gili Lankanfushi’s executive management team. Walter: You go by the motto “No News, No Shoes” here. Everybody runs around barefoot all day long, day in day out. It feels like paradise. What are you going to miss most? Roberto: The water – absolutely. I love the sea and the vastness of the Indian Ocean. I’m also fascinated by life here in the Maldives. There’s no “daily grind”; instead, you work according to your “own plan.” That means: no traffic jams, you don’t have to commute, and in the hotel business the weekend doesn’t play quite the same role as when you hold down a “normal” job. On top of it, the Maldivians are very friendly. And…yes, I will certainly miss being able to run around barefoot. Walter: How will you stay in touch with the “Lankanfushi family”? Roberto: I’ll return at least four time annually to Gili Lankanfushi. Besides, with today’s technologies like email, video conferencing and Skype, it’s almost “normal” to maintain daily contact with business colleagues. And I’m sure I’ll be able to keep up the private friendships formed during nine years in paradise.. Roberto at work As part of our reportage on the Maldives we visited the Gili Lankanfushi barefoot resort. The luxury hotel in the Robinson Crusoe style leaves no wish unfulfilled. At least we weren’t able to think of anything… and so, here is how we experienced this paradise. ## Istanbul concept hotel in the style of the ’50s: The Marmara Șișli Source: https://travelmemo.com/turkey/the-marmara-sisli-istanbul This hotel in the Mecidiyeköy district of Istanbul has been owned by the Marmara Group since 2008. The building was completely renovated and decorated with stylistic elements of the 1950s by the renowned Turksih design agency Autoban. An interesting mix of classical and modern. The 1950s-style lounge At reception you are already given a warm and friendly welcome and accompanied to your room, where many lovely extras await. Welcome morsels of figs and pistachios Premium Turkish wines The Marmara Group not only specialises in serving discerning guests, but also in pressing wine. A sample of the wine Vinkara can be enjoyed in your own room. The hotel’s own welcome wine Hotel rooms from Superior and Superior Plus up to the Junior Suite The 98 rooms in the Marmarma Șișli are able to fulfil every need. In the Superior Room we stay the night on a queen-sized bed and get to enjoy the view of the Business District. The interior of the room is seamlessly integrated into the ’50s flair of the reception area. Double bet in the Superior Room Also designed with impressive authenticity are the bathrooms with classic fittings, and the original washbasins are even still present in the Superior Plus rooms. Nostalgic armatures The chief unique feature of the three suites at the Marmara Șișli is the view over the Bosphorus and the Asian side of Istanbul, which may be admired from the king-sized bed or the whirlpool. King-sized bed in the Junior Suite From the modest sitting area guests can watch the sun set behind the skyscrapers in the evening. Stylish seating furniture in the Junior Suite Thanks to the favourable location in the middle of the Business District on the European side of this metropolis, the Marmara Șișli primarily accommodates businesspeople. The rooms are perfectly designed accordingly. Along with five conference rooms, there is also a Business Lounge with the necessary amenities, which naturally was a big help to us travel bloggers ;-) One of five conference rooms Café, restaurant, bar The dining area is modest but provides an extensive menu of foods and drinks. During the day the charming café offers a refreshing drink, with food and relaxation in the evening. Café during the day, bar at night While eating and drinking, guests are eyed from above by various bird characters, with two drunken penguin figures and a philosophical jester down below. The bar is watched over by this nice fellow Be it a quick snack or supper after a successful day of business, the servers have a suggestion for every occasion. The dessert menu is especially recommended for anyone with a sweet tooth. Turkish dessert of quinces with vanilla ice cream Check out prices and availability here. Many thanks to Mrs. Dinc of The Marmara Group for the invitation! And also a big “thank you” to Mrs. Olszok of the PR agency welllcom for providing this interesting address! ## The Marmara Taksim – luxury hotel in the vibrant centre of Istanbul Source: https://travelmemo.com/turkey/the-marmara-taksim-hotel-istanbul The crown jewel of the Turkish Marmara Hotel Group is located directly on the traffic epicentre of Taksim Square in the Beyoğlu district. It is perfect location for the discerning visitor to Istanbul. Upon reaching the reception you are already greeted with a competent the-customer-is-king smile ;-) Wonderful colour concept in the lobby The Marmara Taksim Hotel also has its own chocolaterie. As Swiss women, naturally we couldn’t pass up a tasting. The handmade chocolates can definitely hold their own against Lindt and Sprüngli! Beyond the impressive reception area, you are led into the lobby via escalator and into the restaurant Tuti. Here, too, everything has been perfectly stylised down to the last detail. The hotel’s own restaurant “Tuti” The restaurant’s décor is dominated by the colour blue The food at Tuti is exquisite. Along with the à la carte specials, guests can also eat from the superior buffet during any meal at their own discretion. An alternative is provided on the 19th floor in the form of Raika, which primarily serves local specialties. Salad with duck and oranges in sesame oil and lemon 270°-view from the Executive Suite The hotel comes with six different room types. All are furnished with a king-sized bed or two single beds. We had the privilege to stay the night in one of the most frequented rooms, an Executive Suite. The especially impressive feature of this corner suite is the 270°-view of the city and the Bosphorus. King-sized bed in the Executive Suite Wonderful royal blue cushions invite you to take a seat by the window… Classical seating with a superb view Usage of the Marmara Club Lounge on the 18th floor is inclusive for the rooms on the upper levels of the 19-story hotel. There guests can enjoy breakfast, as well as coffee and drinks until 10 p.m., above the rooftops of Istanbul. Included for all guests is usage of the hotel’s own spas with sauna, Jacuzzi and hammam. Massages and beauty treatments can also be booked. Check out prices and availability here. Thank you very much to hotel manager Ata Eremsoy for the aperitif with the room, what a reception! And a big “thank you” for the wonderful invitation to Mrs. Dinc of The Marmara Group. Our warm greetings are also extended to Mrs. Olszok of the PR agency welllcom, thank you for considering our blog! ## Design hotel in Istanbul’s “in” quarter: The Marmara Pera Source: https://travelmemo.com/turkey/the-marmara-pera-design-hotel-istanbul Situated in the middle of the trendy Beyoğlu district, the Marmara Pera Hotel with its 202 rooms in two classes and 3 suites offers the comfort that city tourists and business travelers desire. The designers of this Marmara Hotel have set it up tastefully and appropriately with elements from the ’30s and ’70s. The Marmara Pera, designer view of Istanbul Colourful décor in the reception hall The nostalgic-romantic layout is especially very well brought out in the restaurant area on the ground floor. A second restaurant, the Mikla, is located on the top floor. It is privately run and people say it is the best in all of Istanbul… Vivid colours at the hotel bar Breathtaking view from every room From the rooms, visitors can let their eyes fall over either the city or the Bosphorus. Either way, the view is phenomenal! Here you can enjoy the view of the Bosphorus The charm of the ’70s is also present in the room without being intrusive. The colourful wallpapers give the interior authenticity. Stylish colour combination in the suite Traditional Oriental dishes reinvented Especially exciting is the open kitchen in the restaurant area. The guest can make eye contact with the chefs and may, if they like, watch their own order being made. Falafel saladn The menu offers a combination of Western and traditional Turkish dishes. Traditional Hünkar Beğendi kebab over aubergine salad A visit to the rooftop terrace is worthwhile in the evening. The breathtaking 360°-view over Istanbul is especially unforgettable during sunset. Absolutely worth seeing: the sunset over Istanbul Briefly cooling off in the hotel’s own pool above the rooftops of Istanbul is also recommended Amazing: the pool with the 360°-view over Istanbul After eating you should definitely visit one of the countless bars and clubs in the nearby vicinity. The very accommodating hotel personnel is happy to prove you with tips. Guests can also get in touch with the hotel personnel with the innovative WhatsApp service for other matters around the clock, too. Thank you very much to Biçun Schwindt of Marmara Pera for the warm care and the extensive tour ;-) And a big “thank you” for the wonderful invitation to Mrs. Dinc of The Marmara Group, and many thanks to Mrs. Olszok from the PR agency welllcom for considering our blog! Check prices and availability here. ## Montreux Jazz Café in the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/montreux-jazz-cafe-fairmont-montreux-palace The Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Hotel is one of the leading hotels along the Swiss Riviera on Lake Geneva. Here visitors can enjoy a relaxed and jazzy atmosphere outside of the legendary Jazz Festival – namely in the restaurant Montreux Jazz Café. We let ourselves get inspired… For anyone who loves jazz and Montreux, the Montreux Jazz Café is a MUST. We took a look around one evening and were amazed! Bar at the Montreux Jazz Cafe Le Montreux Jazz Café The atmosphere in the Montreux Jazz Café is mystically inspiring, especially in the evening. The walls are decorated with a wealth of souvenirs and artefacts from Claude Nobs’ estate. Freddie Mercury’s kimono is also hanging up at the bar. Renowned jazz musicians, their faces furrowed from the long nights, smile at us from the walls. Is there a single jazz legend who never came to the Montreux Jazz Café? Ray Charles in his element The tables in the Jazz Café also cut a fine figure; colourful glasses, exquisite setting and decent decor are very inviting. During the dinner visitors can get inspired by the sounds of jazz played live next door at Funky Claude’s Bar. To start we ordered a prawn avocado cocktail. Served like a musical bouquet, the little work of art tasted absolutely delicious! Prawn cocktail with avocado For my main course I went with cod with grey shrimp. The kumbawa mashed potatoes were heavenly with their Asian flavour and only brought my attention to the little pan it had been served in. Fantastic! Cod with grey shrimp and kumbawa mashed potatoes The crowning finale of our meal was the crème brulée accompanied with decadent (homemade, of course) pastries. What the Montreux Jazz Café – actually a restaurant – looks like during the day Funky Claude’s Bar During the evening we “sounded out” Funky Claude’s Bar. Captivated by the live music of Luciano Del Gaudio (guitar) and Juan Carlos Gonzalez (on the piano) we enjoyed the laid back atmosphere of the bar. And the drinks. Fascinated, we took a look around and were amazed at the diversity of the clientele here! Juan Carlos Gonzales (on the piano) and Luciano del Gaudio Hotel Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Of course, after this atmospheric evening it was very convenient that we were quickly able to stay the night at the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. This five-star luxury hotel with Belle Époque architecture was constructed in 1906 and is a member of Leading Hotels of the World, as well as Suisse Deluxe Hotels. There’s nothing like going out in style ;-) With its suites, restaurants and bars, its own conference centre and the Willow Stream Spa, the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace is not only one of the most prestigious hotels in Switzerland but also one of the largest in the Swiss Riviera. We were certainly blown over by the hotel’s management who open up (nearly) endless possibilities to the guest. No wonder the hotel has already been granted numerous awards. Bien joué, guys! The rooms and suites The Fairmont Le Montreux Palace is equipped with 236 bright rooms and suites, most of which have a magnificent panoramic view over Lake Geneva and the Alps on the other side. The rooms are decorated with class and style. We were also able to snag a glance at the Freddie Mercury Suite, where the musical legend often stayed the night throughout his life (in the suite now named after him). Not bad! Here is our report of our experiences at the hotel. Our thanks goes out to… … Montreux-Vevey Tourisme for the wonderful invitation and Gretz Communications for organising this visit. A merci beaucoup to Michel Fouque, F&B Manager, for the highly informative tour, as well as to the attentive and friendly service personnel who always addressed us by name after checking in. Service at its best! ## Colossal Brunch at the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/brunch-fairmont-le-montreux-palace Every Sunday there is a brunch of colossal proportions in Montreux: If 120 guests are served during a “normal” Sunday brunch, then this could easily increase to a good 450 on Easter Brunch. We decided to figure out how that isn’t a problem at all for food & beverage manager Michel Fouque… Stairway to the brunch experienceThe Fairmont Le Montreux Palace not only bears a melodious name, but it also forms the epicentre of musicality during the annual Montreux Jazz Festival. Directly adjacent to the Miles Davis Hall and the shores of Lake Geneva, it lies at the foot of Montreux with its daffodil-inspired yellow awnings. Once you enter the foyer you are not only greeted by the authentic smile of the concierge, but the décor and chandelier are modern and surprisingly light. Appropriately elated, you ascend the stairs up to the second floor. The chandelier is a tad greater up here, and the interior decorations are more classical. Opulent Sunday brunch Yet one easily recognises the bustling movements of the men with the tall, white chef hats behind the columns, while the first guests are already sipping their Prosecco in the parlour. And after the pianist has already bundled up his notes, the last stations have sorted out their pans and the juices have been freshly pressed, it all starts at exactly 12 noon: Head chef Patrice Grappe gazes so proudly over his people and the opulent buffets that your head could spin by looking at it. Whether one’s mood is leaning more toward fish or meat, fruit or cheese, dessert 1 or dessert 2: The pain of choosing is guaranteed! It is known that you eat with your eyes first, and so little is spared when it comes to vividly colourful creations. The house’s pastry cooks insist on serving up entire batteries of desserts. But perhaps I will simply step out of the way for a moment and let the photos speak for themselves. After all, they save me 1000 words… Buffet stations with fish, pasta, cheese, and more Duck skewers with honey sauce Scorpionfish buffet from the North Haunch Chef Patrice Grappe among his buffets Mango mousse with coconut biscuit Raspberry Coconut Tiramisu Pineapple Chocolate Once you have feasted on the epicurean orgy and decided on a first entrée, you are seated at a table in the adjacent “greenhouse”: With a breezy view of the Petit Palais and Lake Geneva, you joyfully swing your knife and fork accompanied by repeated, appreciative nodding and raised brows. It doesn’t get any better than that! Breakfast in the house of palms The inclined reader will quickly argue that the “Palmeraie“, as the greenhouse is referred to in the local French, does not offer seating for 450 people. That’s true. Yet here is where food & beverage manager Michel Fouque puffs out his chest and proudly points to an entire series of neighbouring halls that can be opened as necessary. He is thus able to host occasions with up to 500 people without having to dribble. Châpeau! For CHF 85.- the hotel offers a high-class Sunday brunch. What we’re saying is: A crystal-clear must-try! Breakfast and brunch in the greenhouse with … … View of the Petit Palais of the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Anybody who essentially wants to enjoy brunch in bed, that is to say without arriving in the morning, will find room prices and availability here. Our review of the hotel room can be found here. ## Multicultural amenities at the Hotel Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/fairmont-montreux-palace-freddie-mercury-suite As you know, we usually visit smaller boutique hotels. This time, though, we went for a bigger place at the invitation of Montreux-Vevey Tourisme. Lo and behold, we were quickly surprised… Now we like the small, modern, personally run “enthusiast hotels” more than the large, classic 5-star buildings of the Belle Époque. With somewhat mixed expectations we arrived in Montreux with the GoldenPass Classic (here’s our review) train from Rougemont and walked along the shore of Lake Geneva, straight past the luxury cars in the front drive and into the belly of the beast. And already we were promptly surprised in the foyer by the incredibly friendly personnel of the Montreux Palace. Check-in was also swiftly taken care of so that we immediately found ourselves once more in a spacious Deluxe Room with a view of the “Swiss Riviera”. Deluxe Rooms on Lake Geneva The hall leading to the hotel room is also extra wide because the hotel was constructed in 1906, when the women wore wide sweeping skirts. The corridor was correspondingly dimensioned so widely that two women could cross paths in the hallway without ruffling up their frills. The decoration in the Deluxe Room is decently modest and kept in tranquil, bright pastel tones. Definitely not bad after a funky night at the Montreux Jazz Festival… The bed is also very comfortable. In any case I didn’t remember everything from the night; it was over in a heartbeat. But that was the fault of the nightcap at the hotel’s own Funky Claude’s Bar. The Montreux Palace has a surprisingly funky restaurant on offer with the Montreux Jazz Café… The view from the little balcony over Lake Geneva and the garden of the hotel is gorgeous. It is worth celebrating in the latter during the legendary Montreux Jazz Festival parties, the details of which our hotel guide Michel Fouque simply did not want to disclose. “What happens in Montreux, stays in Montreux…” is all we got out of him. So he showed us the Freddie Mercury Suite on the top floor, the counterpart to the Quincy Jones Suite opposite. These suites and their rooftop terraces are said to have hosted exuberant parties, too. But mum’s the word on that as well… If anyone knows more, please fill us in! Hotel bed in the Deluxe Room Reflection in the Deluxe Room View from the balcony of the Deluxe Room Freddie Mercury Suite, who would have guessed? Here is definitely a small tribute to the master: Multicultural interior decoration Especially impressive to us were the hotel rooms that are usually kept away from us “Westerners”: The guests from the Middle East clearly have different demands and different taste. They prefer the decoration to be as colourful and classic-original as possible. In this regard the Montreux Palace cannot be stumped: Even with the special requests during Ramadan you can be certain that the dear guests extend a weekly stay into one month! For the entire floor, if need be… Here are a few impressions from this “other world”: Anybody fortunate enough to spend a weekend in Montreux should not miss out on the brunch. It is very extravagant and looks like this. We thank Montreux-Vevey Tourism for the invitation and the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace for the great reception! Ursula Gretz from Gretz Communications was also a great help by facilitating this visit, thank you very much! Prices and availability are available here. ## Hotel de Rougemont – Chalet-style boutique hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-de-rougemont The Hotel de Rougemont was opened in December 2014. The four-star boutique hotel consists of a mix of tradition and design, making us feel fine right from the very start. The idyllic Rougemont lies in the Pays d’Enhaut, right on the border with the Bernese Saanenland region, and thus only a few minutes by car from the world famous town of Gstaad. It is a historic village established by monks from Cluny. Partially because of its centuries-old wooden chalet, the village radiates a unique charm all its own. Signposts to the Hotel de Rougemont Hotel de Rougemont in chalet style Sitting on a slight elevation, on a south-facing slope at the edge of the Rougemont, is the new Hotel de Rougemont. Embedded in nature and with its beautiful and locally traditional chalet construction, it fits into the idyllic village scene perfectly. Hotel de Rougemont in the idyllic chalet style That very idyll is enhanced with lifestyle and luxury upon entering the lobby. A remarkably modern, but cosy set-up, premium materials and lighting that hangs from the ceiling like glass pearls, instantly conjure up a certain magic. We know one thing right away: We’re going to like it here! Original seating in the lobby of the Rougemont Hotel The lights hang from the ceiling like pearls The wonder continues once we enter the lounge with its bar and fireplace. Here, too, we are amazed by the interior and are always discovering new little details that were skilfully arranged and combined with the natural materials. Lounge with fireplace Stylish hotel bar with quartz crystal An attractive Smokers Lounge with colourfully alternating room lighting gives cigarette smokers and enthusiasts a special “ooohmm feeling” ;-) The smoking lounge in blue. There are other colours as well. And located adjacent to it is another room dedicated to enjoyment: the wine store with select wines. Wine tastings and a private dinner with friends can be held here. The rooms with the chalet lifestyle look We usually take the stairs to the rooms – because we leave out the gym in most hotels. But Director Christine Perper (who we will get to speak with later) said that we “must” take the lift. Somewhat bemused and curious, we enter the lift; she very proudly shows us the lift cabin lined with cowhide on the walls. After 3 or 4 times taking the lift we had really taken to the cow in the lift, or “‘s Liftchueli” (how we called the cow in Swiss German slang). Walter always petted it like it was a guinea pig – albeit a rather large one. But we let him be :-) The 33 rooms, including 10 suites and 4 penthouse suites, are divided into the two chalets “le Rüebli” and “Videmanette” – named for the two local mountains of the region. Every room faces south, giving every visitor an astonishing view of the Pays d’Enhaut. Sunrise over Rougemont We were able to lodge in the penthouse suite, which has an extremely cosy character about it thanks to natural fabrics, brown leather and aromatic fir wood. And lots of small details in the decorations give the rooms that extra chalet-chic. Wonderful! We were also really happy with the bathroom, with its glass elements and black tiles – Walter was especially pleased with the extra strong Black Mambo hair dryer! And with his short hair, too… Never let it be said that us women are picky when it comes to hair dryers! Large rain shower, to Walter’s delight The art of pleasure at the restaurant “Le Roc” Thanks to lots of fir wood, warm light from designer lamps and the right decorations, the atmosphere in the restaurant “Le Roc” is cosy and chic. Hotel restaurant Roc Head chef Jean-Luc Daniel follows his leitmotif: “Bien manger pour bien vivre” (Good food is the basis for a good life). The native Belgian uses simple, honest dishes all in accordance with his philosophy: The art of pleasure lies in simplicity. For our first course we took a tuna tartar with herbs and avocado. Delectable! I went with a “tagliata de boef” with rucola, parmesan and a shot of truffle oil for my main course. Walter felt like indulging in his vegetarian side and elected for a spring risotto with asparagus, which I obviously had to try for myself; the mixture with asparagus and peas tasted exquisite. And my cherry tomatoes blended into his risotto superbly! Perhaps Jean-Luc Daniel should also try out this flavour contrast ;-) Tuna tartar Steak tagliata with rucola and truffle oil Spring risotto with asparagus and peas Unfortunately we did not have any room for dessert, but a covetous glance at the dessert plate on the neighbouring table let us decide that the desserts are good as well. Does anybody know more? The spa The spa is small but amazing. A black mosaic pool (10 x 4 metres) and the surrounding quiet area is the cornerstone of the wellness area. Once again, the select materials that combine earth and stone are impressive here. The candles and flickering fire in the fireplace grant the area a soothing warmth… How cosy! Small but amazing spa in the Hotel Rougemont©Hotel de Rougemont Rather less snug, but all the more practical is the current system in the pool. It allows you to swim for quite a long time in the same direction despite the “brief” 10 metres in length without having to turn every few metres. Along with the treatment room, the wellness area also boasts a steam bath and a sauna. The latter has a view of the pool and the large skylight above it. Management motto: “Chez nous – chez vous” The boutique hotel is managed by the pair of directors Christine & Alexander Perper, who worked in the hotel and travel business in New York for several years before moving to Rougemont. The young, kind couple prefer to win over their guests with hospitality, all according to the philosophy “Chez nous – chez vous“. And it’s true: Afer a comfortable aperitif with Christine & Alexander we felt at home ;-) Management couple: Christine and Alexander Perper Aperitif: A Hugo with the meat platter The Hotel de Rougemont, a member of the Design Hotels, since 2015, is the perfect abode for a luxurious chalet weekend in a cosy and warm atmosphere. We definitely enjoyed ourselves! Prices and availability can be seen here. Our thanks goes out to… Thank you very much to Christine & Alexander Perper for the friendly invitation and the interesting conversation! A “merci viumau” as well to Ursula Krebs of Gretz Communications AG for organising this trip! ## GoldenPass Panoramic Train – between the Bernese Oberland and Lake Geneva Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/goldenpass-panoramic-train The GoldenPass Line is one of the most beautiful railway panoramic lines in Switzerland. Between Zweisimmen-Montreux passengers enter a divine natural setting that shows up close and personal why tourists flock to Switzerland… Once we had already embarked on the Glacier Express, the next “train highlight” awaited us: the trip with the GoldenPass Panoramic! Or Classic? Along with the GoldenPass Panoramic, with its panorama cars flooded with light, the GoldenPass Classic also travels along the Montreux-Zweisimmen line, with cars in the elegant style of the Belle Époque – also not bad! Walter enjoys the GoldenPass Classic The GoldenPass Cheese Car During the wintertime passengers can also enjoy the “Cheese Car” – a train reserved for gourmands seeking authentic and original dishes. On this line passengers learn the old Swiss tradition of cheese-making by making a stop in Château d’Oex and visiting a dairy. We made a stop in the restaurant “Le Chalet” in Château d’Oex where they produce their own “Le Chalet organic” cheese, and on a log fire – just like it was originally made in a real Alpine hut! While we sat at the table eating fine fondue we also experienced first-hand how the cheese makers turn 160-200 litres of organic milk into a 16 to 20 kg loaf of cheese. The Le Chalet organic cheese ripens for some 5 to 6 months in the cellar after being produced before it can be eaten. Naturally at Le Chalet guests are served by local women in traditional garb. The restaurant has a rustic design and lying on the tables are place mats in the paper cutting style of Beatrice Straubhaar. Place mat with paper cutting from Beatrice Straubhaar Looking out the window you will spot the Swiss flag flapping in the wind; it doesn’t get any more Swiss than this! The restaurant also manages its own in-house shop with regional products from the Pays d’Enhaut; cheese made from cow, goat or sheep’s milk, meat specialties, honey or syrup. One thing you should not miss out on under any circumstances is the model train on the 2nd floor! The panorama of the GoldenPass Line was beautifully replicated and the trains run past each other like in real life. I felt like a dyed-in-the-wool railway worker! Ah… and during the summer, in place of the Cheese Car there is the Chocolate Car: Not exactly the Cheese train, but something similar… Additional information on the GoldenPass can be found on its website. In conclusion we took a look at the Museum “Vieux Pays-d’Enhaut”, which is also its own leg of the “Cheese Car Tour”. The private museum was founded in 1922 and over the years it has become one of the most popular museums of its kind. Here visitors are immersed in Swiss culture throughout various rooms and they learn how people once lived here as well as a few things about the Swiss art of paper cutting popular around the world. In addition, we recently reported on the paper cutting work of Beatrice Straubhaar, whose works of art can also be admired on the place mats at Le Chalet! Cooking utensils in the Heimatmuseum A merci beaucoup to… Pays d’Enhaut for the invitation and Julie Ferreux, Marketing manager, for accompanying us and for the interesting tour through Château-d’Oex. Many thanks as well to Niklaus Mani from GoldenPass for the interesting presentations during the ride to Montreux, and Ursula Krebs from Gretz Communications for organising this trip! Morsels on the trip from Château-d’Oex to Montreux ;-) Our mixed cheese and meat platter. Thanks Niklaus Mani! ## Water or beachside villa at the Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa? Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/water-beachside-villa-hideaway-beach-resort-spa The exclusive Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is located in the northern Haa Alifu Atoll, on the sickle-shaped private island of Dhonakulhi with heavily overgrown, lush vegetation and a breathtaking house reef! We had to choose between a beachside and water villa… While planning for our travels in 2015, the Maldives were at the top of the list: We wanted to dwell on one of the many islands strung along like a pearl necklace, where nature meets luxury and where the most exclusive resorts can be found. We were looking forward to a piece of land where rich green palms and the turquoise blue of the Indian Ocean form a unique picture book backdrop. Where you can feel the snow white sand between your toes early in the morning. Where the diverse fauna dominates and colourful fish both large and small bustle around the bizarrely formed coral reefs, providing a magnificent show for divers and snorkelers alike. And that is exactly what we got! But first we had to get there… Flight over the Maldives Up until recently the remote atoll could only be reached with a trans-Maldivian domestic flight from Malé and a subsequent boat transfer, requiring at least two hours in travel time (check-in time at the airport included). But those days are over! This is because during our stay, General Manager Carsten Schieck very proudly and happily announced the direct flight with Trans Maldivian Airlines between Malé and Dhonakulhi. We reported on this flight and the respective reception here in pictures and audio. Landing Twin Otter operated by Trans Maldivian Airways Thanks to the transfer via seaplane, the arrival itself becomes an experience and we are literally dropped off at the front doors! The island and its house reef Dhonakulhi Island is one of the largest islands in the Maldives with its 500 x 1,400 metres of space. There are only a few islands with such a large, untouched and natural island surface. For practical purposes the resort provides bicycles with every accommodation so that visitors can comfortably explore the various attractions on the island – that is if the heat or rain don’t force you into the ubiquitous buggy service. If ever it gets too hot, the distance is too long or it is too dark, simply call a butler who will come with a golf cart and chauffeur you around… Our means of transportation on Dhonakulhi The house reef borders the beach and the Meeru restaurant, and spans along the entire length of the island. From here fish of all sizes and colours can be seen as well as turtles, dolphins and even manta rays. Thanks to a slight current you can drift along with the marvelous spectacle and then slowly return to the shore. Dramatic sunset in Dhonakulhi Island The diving areas are also merely a short “Dhoni distance” away and offer all sorts of untouched coral banks and the tumult that comes with it. The Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa Completely restored in 2014, the Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa encompasses a total of 100 villas; 50 renovated beachside villas, each with a private garden and direct beach access. 50 large-scale water villas with a private pool were newly added, and stand on stilts in the lagoon. Depending on personal preference you will have to decide for one form of luxury accommodation or another. Or simply do what many Asians do: Change the room category during your stay so you can take even more photos of your wedding trip… Actually we prefer smaller resorts, yet because of the island’s size the villas are optimally spread out. In addition every guest, be they in a beachside or water villa, gets their own clear sphere of privacy. Beach umbrellas at Sunset Pool Café Along with the villas, the luxury resort includes a welcome area with reception counter, four restaurants, swimming pools, a diving and water sports centre, a spa area, boutiques and a Kids Club, and is optimally suited for both active holidaymakers as well as peace-seekers! Along with a football pitch (!), two modern tennis courts are also available. Prospective tennis greats like the former top player Nikolai Davydenko provide tennis lessons here. The villas Regardless which of the five types of villas one stays in, all of them are designed with an extraordinary love for detail by using traditional, handmade natural materials in balanced pastel colours. We stayed in a Deluxe Water Villa with a pool that suited our gusto to a T; stylish design, a large sun deck with a whirlpool and direct access to the Indian Ocean via a set of stairs – incredible! Who needs a pool? But of course when it’s so enticing with its massage jets then this option will be used in its entirety, especially as the water temperature is near 30 degrees. The same goes for the lagoon and 15 metres under water. Only then does the temperature sink to 29 degrees… Bedroom in the Deluxe Water Villa Bathtub in over water villa Sunrise in front of the water villas Upscale cuisine at the different restaurants Visitors to the island can treat themselves in four different restaurants; in the main restaurant Matheefaru, where the massive breakfast buffet is also served every morning, visitors can enjoy a relaxed atmosphere (on a sand floor) in the evening, as well as a buffet with international and Maldivian dishes. Matheefaru buffet restaurant Buffet chef at Matheefaru restaurant The Meeru Bar located on the beach offers delicious lunch dishes and captivates every evening with lobster, fish and meat specialties fresh off the grill. And that’s with a view of stingrays and blacktip reef sharks patrolling the water beneath the guests’ feet… Sun terrace of the Meeru Bar At the Sunset Pool Café fine snacks and seafood dishes are served, and Asian fusion meals are offered at the Samsara Restaurant that stands on stilts, with variations from India and Japan and an authentic teppanyaki! Poolside table at the Sunset Pool Cafés Pool and ocean access at Sunset Pool Café Of course private dinners in romantic corners of the island (and there’s no lack of those!) can be arranged upon request. Hideaway Spa and Beauty Palace The Spa Palace is spaciously laid out and brilliantly decorated with blossoms. Already upon entering one can pick up on a fine aroma. No wonder that we indulged in a soothing massage; and so we first chose the right aroma from the four massage oils available, and one of the various massage techniques. We went for the Balinese variation, as most masseuses in the Maldives come from Bali anyway. And despite the delicate posture, we were definitely “in good hands”: In the end we felt like we had been born again! Entrance to the Spa Palace assage oil selection Our thanks goes out to… … General Manager Carsten Schieck for the incredible invitation and Sales & Marketing manager Zara Burnazyan for organising the trip. Our heartfelt thanks also to Josef Umenberger, Executive Assistant and Food & Beverage Manager, for the detailed explanations and for having always provided our creature comforts ;-) THANK YOU SO MUCH! ## Maiden flight with seaplane on the Northern Maldives Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/maiden-flight-seaplane-maldives We had the pleasure of accompanying the maiden flight of a Trans Maldivian Airways seaplane from Malé in the high northern atolls of the Maldives: We landed in the luxurious Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa, where a full-blown reception committee, including a local “band”, was waiting for us. Here’s how that sounds like… The island of Dhonakulhi, with the elegant Hideaway Beach Resort, lies over one flight hour north of the capital of Malé. Until now the resort could also be reached with a Trans Maldivian Airways domestic flight, with a layover and a half-hour transfer by speedboat. Now that’s not bad, but… since April 2015 the island can also be flown to directly from Malé three times per day with a seaplane. The incoming flight over the many atolls is an experience in itself, as the 15-seat monoplane really flies closely above the scattered isles, thereby providing the best view of the turquoise spectacle. Hideaway General Manager Carsten Schieck had personally taken the initiative to allow his outlying resort to be flown to directly. The fact that he has already been successfully working in Maldivian resorts for 13 years certainly helped. In any case, local tourism managers envy the Hideaway for its busy German GM and his wife. Among other things, she works as a resort photographer and has a good eye for harmonious shots. Island hopping in the DHC-6 Twin Otter These planes originally developed by De Havilland Canada in 1965 are clearly not only designed to take off and land on remote Canadian lakes, but their STOL features (short takeoff and landing) make them an ideal method of air transport in the Maldives, too. The planes, which originally fit 19 passengers, only seat 15 here to make room for all the sunseekers’ luggage. However, hard suitcases are discouraged as soft travel bags are easier to stow away. The pilots are especially a sight to see: Their uniform consists of highly fashionable sunglasses and white dress shirts, with dark blue Bermuda shorts, and sandals if necessary so as not to burn their feet on the hot landing jetties. But then, they always fly barefoot… Cockpit of the seaplane Barefoot in the air: Maldivian seaplanes The sky at your fingertips, or rather the tips of your toes… Celebratory reception of the maiden flight The passengers of the maiden flight were welcomed with all the local pomp: A band provided the local musical colour in the elegant lobby while resort management gathered to greet the guests and pilots. Coconut milk and cool towels were handed out during the musical performance. It cannot get any better than that! Reception jetty for seaplanes and speedboats And the guests were then given this musical welcome: ## Winterwonderland in Sixt Fer à Cheval, Haute-Savoie, south-eastern France Source: https://travelmemo.com/france/sixt-fer-cheval-haute-savoie-south-eastern-france The tramping boots (TBs) were a little bewildered at spending January in the fierce cold of a Northern Hemisphere winter. I caught them looking around for their usual tramping ground of golden tussock in a sun-scorched Central Otago, New Zealand summer, far from the silver white snow-scape of the French Alps winter. But despite the topsy-turvy seasons, there was never a murmur of discontent. The TBs proved they could foot it in sub-zero temperatures with frozen laces and snow up beyond their ankles, just as well as in the heat, dust and river crossings of the Southern Hemisphere summer hikes. We spent a week in January in the exquisite little French alpine village of Sixt Fer à Cheval, staying at La Tibolire, a chalet I had found months earlier on the Love Home Swap website. La Tibolire in Sixt Fer à Cheval through the international home swap website Love Home Swap. Picture by Melissa Feeney. It did not suit our hosts Melissa and Mark to swap homes, so we agreed on a points arrangement whereby Love Home Swap members earn credits when they have guests to stay, a form of currency they can then “spend” at other members’ homes anywhere in the world at any time. We had our own superbly well-equipped, two-bedroom self-contained apartment on the ground floor of the three-storey Savoie-style chalet Melissa and Mark built in 2013 when they moved to France from the UK. So we enjoyed the best of all worlds – privacy, company and the benefit of our hosts’ local knowledge. Rated one of “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”, Sixt Fer à Cheval is named for the nearby Cirque du Fer à Cheval, a spectacular horseshoe-shaped natural amphitheatre 4km to 5km in length, with walls 500m to 700m high, crowned by majestic peaks — Tenneverge (2987m), the Cheval Blanc (2831m) and Grenier de Commune (2775m). Sixt Fer à Cheval with its pretty river and 13th century church and abbey, justifiably rated one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’ The cirque is a frozen silver-white chateau de glace (ice castle) in the winter but in the spring and summer thaw more than 30 waterfalls cascade from its steep cliffs and snowfields. Cirque du Fer à Cheval in the winter. As we hiked the snowy pathways in this enchanted winter wonderland of jagged peaks, frozen lakes and foamy turquoise rivers, I blessed the day I packed the TBs and left my silly street boots behind. Winter hiking in the Cirque du Fer à Cheval By early afternoon the sun emerged, brilliant against the blue sky. It was a dazzling sight but there was no warmth in the sun and the temperature remained well below zero. Another day, we climbed up the Gorges de Tines, a deep, narrow gash in the side of a mountain accessible only via a rocky pathway and a series of steep ladders. Quite an adventure for the TBs in a light blizzard. Refusing to be thwarted by an icy track, the TBs also made it up to the Cascade du Rouget, the “Queen of the Alps”, a beautiful waterfall high in the mountains that tumbles 80 metres in two tiers. The frozen spray from the cascade turned common-place spider webs and ferns into works of art in sparkling silver filigree. As the sun set over the mountains in a blaze of pink and gold, we drove back to La Tibolire to feast on raclette, a hearty alpine dish prepared by Melissa (see food story and recipe below). The TBs thawed out by the roaring fire, gloating to their arch rivals the SBs (ski boots), who were in a corner sulking at being left behind for the day. We shared many fun dinners with our hosts in their cosy dining room. My husband, Chris, and Mark discovered a common interest in curry so they cooked tandoori chicken one night, we did a Kiwi lamb casserole another night and on our last evening together, Melissa wowed us with a garlic chicken dish and a divine Galette de Roi, a dessert made with almonds, oranges and rum . . . not forgetting her delicious lemon drizzle cake. The galette is a special Epiphany dessert which traditionally has a bean hidden inside the filling – whoever gets the bean in their piece of pie is king for the day and wears a golden crown. Melissa substituted a little figurine of a character from the cartoon Asterix for the bean and I got to wear the crown. Talking of yummy food, we stumbled across the world’s best bread at a tiny bakery called Tiffanie in Sixt. I’d like to say we ate it with divine French fromage and a fine vin rouge but we never managed to get home with it . . . just the paper bag. Apart from wining and dining together most evenings, Melissa and Mark also provided us with an excellent information and mountain guide service. Being “locals” they knew the best ski rental shop, boulangerie, pâtisserie, hiking tracks, ski areas and restaurants to go to. At Melissa’s suggestion, we hired skis from Lionel at Lionel Sports, a delightful, modest Frenchman with a tiny shop in Sixt. I could hardly believe my eyes when I found a brand new pair of my favourite Dynastar Neva skis in my size among the racks of skis there. Lionel looked a little nonplussed when I hugged him and tried to explain in my limited français how thrilled I was to find such excellent skis in his little shop having ended up with mediocre rental equipment from some large, rental establishments in big, posh resorts. I also fell in love with his labrador who rested his head on one of my SBs whenever I came into the shop. A brilliant sales’ ploy. Melissa and Mark took us skiing, much to the delight of the SBs who had travelled all the way from New Zealand in their smart new zip-up carry bag. Sixt Fer à Cheval is part of the vast ski domain of the Grand Massif and without our “guides”, we would have been quite bewildered as to where to find the best snow and runs. It was bliss for once not having to decipher piste maps, argue about where to ski or seek information, en français, about how to get back to access lifts if we had skied too far . . . always a worry on an unfamiliar field. Consisting of five resorts – Samoëns, Morillon, Sixt, Les Carroz and the high altitude Flaine – the Grand Massif offers 265km of pistes, mostly north facing, so the slopes hold the snow well. Chris, Melissa, Justine and Mark at scenic, sunny Samoëns We mainly skied at the scenic, sunny Samoëns field accessed by the high-speed Grand Massif Express télécabine or bubble lift, an easy five-minute flat drive from La Tibolire. The SBs fell in love with Samoëns’ uncrowded slopes, wide, well-prepared pistes, and lovely mountain restaurants like the Igloo at Morillon. Sadly a lack of snow early in the season meant we were unable to ski the longest piste in the European Alps, the 14km “Piste des Cascades” which begins on the Grande Platières summit above Flaine and ends in a zigzag track alongside a frozen waterfall a few minutes from La Tibolire. I nearly cried when I saw Melissa’s photos of this extraordinarily-picturesque gentle run across meadowland, past iced waterfalls and through forests, where skiers even see chamois and alpine ibex. Next time, I thought . . . next time . . . Justine snow-shoeing About two months before our arrival, knowing dog-sledding was an excursion we were keen to do, Melissa kindly made a booking for us with Espace Nordique du Haut-Giffre at the Col de Joux Plane. High above Samoëns, the col (mountain pass) is a base for cross-country skiing, raquettes (snow-shoeing) and sledding of the dog and human-propelled variety. When we arrived after a 20-minute drive up a winding mountain road from the valley, our musher Fabrice Hazan and his team of huskies and other husky-ish canines, were awaiting us, barking mad to be under way. As soon as we tucked ourselves into the double sled, the musher kicked the spiked anchor/break out of the snow and we slid off, quite sedately at first, along a wide pathway. A beautiful blue-eyed husky at Espace Nordique du Haut-Giffre, Col de Joux Plane, above Samoëns It didn’t pay to think about what could have happened had the anchor come unstuck before the musher positioned himself behind us and took up the reins. After a few minutes, Fabrice whistled to the dogs and they gathered pace, happy to be running free. Once out of earshot of the vociferous complaints of the other canines still tethered at the base, we were surprised at the silence. The only sounds were Fabrice’s whistles and voice commands – he never once said much – and the swish of the sled runners on the snow. The 44 padded paws in a blur ahead of us were noiseless. The huskies on the run at Espace Nordique du Haut-Giffre, Col de Joux Plane, above Samoëns in the French Alps Travelling at the speed of dog along a well-formed track between trees laden with snow was incredibly exciting. We wore our ski helmets to be on the safe side but there was only one anxious moment when our teams met rival teams coming in the opposite direction on a narrow part of the track. The dogs snarled and barked ferociously at each other but our musher made sure his animals gave the others a wide berth. Our sled-ride was incredibly exhilarating The day was clear and sunny with an awe-inspiring panorama of the valley and the mountain giants beyond. To make the most of a perfect afternoon, we rented cross-country skis and did a few clumsy circuits of the beginners’ course. Competent downhill skiers, we misguidedly assumed we would adjust effortlessly to the longer, skinnier version of skis but we were sadly mistaken. It was fantastic exercise though, especially dragging each other out of snowdrifts in fits of laughter. The breath-taking panorama on our husky-sled ride The huskies lay down in the snow for a well-earned snooze at the end of their run We performed better on the raquettes – although the TBs did not approve of having things like tennis rackets strapped onto them. While exploring the countryside, we noticed many signposts pointing to refuges and alpine huts in the mountains. Melissa told us there are numerous staffed refuges in the French and Swiss Alps which enable trampers, cyclists or randonner (ski touring) skiers to hike, bike or ski high alpine tracks for days without ever descending to villages on the valley floor for accommodation. They offer basic dormitory-style sleeping arrangements with mattresses, duvets and pillows but also have hot showers, toilets, and – believe it or not – hearty food and wine! Hikers need only carry their clothing and a sleeping bag liner. The standard is somewhere between New Zealand’s cold-water, no-showers, BYO-food and bedding DoC (Department of Conservation) huts and the expensive, upmarket, everything-supplied lodges on our Great Walks. And they are huge, some sleeping up to 70 people. So the silly Kiwi (New Zealand) joke we often crack while tramping in remote areas in New Zealand — the one about a cafe being just around the corner or over the ridge — is actually true in the Alps. We loved our time in Sixt Fer à Cheval with the pretty River Giffre flowing through the village, the 13th century church and abbey, and Chalet La Tibolire which means “the barn” in the ancient Mourmé dialect. We also became good friends with our hosts. A highly-gregarious, amusing, food and wine-loving British couple who made the move from Northampton four years ago, Melissa and Mark now live and work in their lovely chalet a few minutes up the hill from the village. They occasionally commute to England to work but most of the time they manage their consultancy businesses from idyllic offices on the top floor of their chalet, looking directly at the jaw-dropping Pointe de Sales (2497m). How can you possibly work with a view like that? I asked Melissa. The view from La Tibolire – Pointe de Sales (2497m) . . . or an American Indian sleeping on his side.Picture by Melissa Feeney. “Not easy,” she replied. “I pull the curtains when I need to concentrate.” She had obviously spent considerable time studying the massive craggy hunk of rock because she said it looked like an American Indian sleeping on his side . . . even after a week of gazing at it from all angles, I still could not see him. The apartment is conveniently-located, spotlessly clean and extraordinarily well-equipped with a full kitchen including microwave, dishwasher, coffee-maker, washer/drier and every imaginable cooking utensil. A bottle of local wine awaited us along with essential kitchen and laundry requirements. The place sleeps six in two bedrooms, one queen, one twin, with a couch in the living room that converts to a comfortable double bed. It has stunning views of the mountains from the windows, doors and a large decking which would be a gorgeous spot in summer. The under-floor heating warmed the entire place, keeping it cosy even on the coldest days and nights. Heart-themed curtains, bedspreads, cushions, aprons, tablecloths and towels, add a traditional Savoyade flavour to the place. Stunning photographs of local landscapes adorn the walls, all taken by Melissa, a talented amateur photographer. For inside days and nights, there are three TV sets with hundreds of channels, a huge collection of DVDs and books and games of every description. If you feel the urge to entertain, there’s glassware, crockery and cutlery for about 12. I even spied a good array of baby-phernalia in various cupboards. We were never lonely with our hosts upstairs, and we often had furry and feathered company. Melissa and Mark’s two alpine “cattens” (overgrown kittens) appeared on our window ledges each day or snuck inside to snuggle behind the cushions on the couch, while their family of chooks (hens) used to watch us inquisitively through a small high window while we were showering. Definitely a first! After a week of fantastic hospitality, I suggested Melissa and Mark rebrand themselves as M&M’s Sixt Services, offering ski guiding, tourist information, in-house chefs, entertainment, a pet farm and a showering-with-chooks option. I casually mentioned that the only activity, or in this case non-activity, we had not managed to tick off while on our month-long ski tour of the alps, was soaking in a jacuzzi in the snow, sipping vin chaud or champagne . . . I wasn’t fussy. “Pas de problème”, replied the resourceful Melissa who speaks impeccable français. She did a quick mental search of her contacts and came up with a friend down the road who would be only too happy to oblige . . . the only thing Melissa couldn’t arrange was the snow, although if asked to do so, I’m quite sure she would have found another friend with a snowcat, snow maker or front-end loader to deliver a load of the precious white stuff to suitably surround the jacuzzi. Before we said our fond farewells, we invited Melissa, Mark, the cattens and the chooks to come and stay with us in New Zealand. If all goes according to the grand plan, we will host them next year using the Love Home Swap points system. We will take M&M hiking. The TBs would like that. •Justine Tyerman flew Cathay Pacific from Auckland to Paris via Hong Kong, then travelled by train to Geneva and rental vehicle to Sixt Fer à Cheval. Love Home Swap assisted with accommodation. Factbox: To book accommodation: www.lovehomeswap.com La Tibolire is also available on Love Home Swap to rent. Lionel Sports: www.lionelsport.com Dog-sledding:Traineaux Passion & Parc Nordique Best bread: Tiffanie in Sixt Fer à Cheval Ski wear: Mons Royale: www.monsroyale.com/ Nivose: nivosegear.com/products/ To fly Cathay Pacific: www.cathaypacific.com Travel Tips: About Love Home Swap’s points system: London-based Love Home Swap co-founder Ben Wosskow says the company launched the points system to make it easier for Love Home Swap members to travel to destinations of their choice throughout the year. “We have been delighted by how the points system has been received,” says Ben. “It has quickly overtaken traditional home swapping as our most popular way to travel as points allow you to stay at any member’s home around the world at any time without having to do a direct swap with them.” “The benefits of travelling this way are clear – you can save a few thousand dollars on the cost of accommodation and enjoy a much more local holiday experience.” “And you don’t need to have a mansion to be successful on our site – small and stylish properties in city locations are as much in demand as large and luxurious homes in the country.” www.lovehomeswap.com Fly Cathay Pacific voted the World’s Best Airline for the fourth time in the 2014 Skytrax Awards. Visit www.cathaypacific.com for the latest airfares from Auckland to Paris or Zurich via Hong Kong, and airfare/train combinations to Basel or Geneva. A tummy-warmer Warning . . . this is not health food. Justine Tyerman greedily consumes far too much of a good thing in the wrong country. Raclette machine used for making raclette, a traditional Swiss alpine melted-cheese-on-potato dish Raclette is a cheese and potato dish traditionally associated with Switzerland but it wasn’t until we were in the tiny French alpine village of Sixt Fer à Cheval that we got to try the delicacy. Hosts Melissa and Mark, at Chalet La Tibolire, said raclette was a popular meal on their side of the alps too, which seemed to make it OK. So there we were… Kiwis eating a traditional Swiss dish cooked by Brits in the French Alps. It was a treat well worth waiting for and all the tastier because it was prepared and served in a cosy private home by a roaring fire with fine company, rather than in a Swiss restaurant where we would have paid an arm and a leg, and possibly a few vital organs. But be warned, raclette is a highly dangerous dish, possibly addictive. I began the meal politely by taking a small cooked potato from a pot, melting my rectangle of smoked cheese under the grill until it was bubbly, then dribbling it over my little spud. I added cracked pepper and coarse sea salt, and ate it daintily with salad and charcuterie (cured meats). Thereafter, the potatoes just kept jumping on to my plate, lathering themselves in melted cheese which I had left under the grill long enough to turn slightly crispy, and disappearing down my throat of their own accord. The pot of potatoes, which I had conservatively estimated at the start of the meal would feed 10, was gone in no time, largely consumed by two greedy Kiwis with a little help from our hosts. They were delicious in the extreme and I found myself thinking: “Who cares about calories. It’s minus-10 outside and we need a few extra to survive in this climate”. That argument was not particularly valid as we were in T-shirts beside a red-hot fire. Mark then brought out his home-made liqueurs. Fortunately we did not have to drive through the raging blizzard to get home. Raclette is a simple, hearty, sociable, and tummy-warming dish which is fun to eat because everyone sits around the table, helps themselves and cooks their own. Raclette à la Tibolire INGREDIENTS A variety of cheeses — we had smoked, herb and plain Salad greens Small firm potatoes cooked with their skins on A variety of charcuterie (cold cooked meats), prosciutto or salami Method Melt a slice of cheese under the grill until it bubbles and starts to turn brown and a wee bit crispy Ladle it onto a cooked potato Season and eat with salad and cold meats Repeat… many times! :-) ## Design hotel: Kameha Grand Zurich – the hotel opening Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/kameha-grand-zurich Zurich has a new grand hotel! The lifestyle Kameha Grand with opulent design by Marcel Wanders opened its doors on March 1st. And this is how it went at the pre-opening… The groundbreaking ceremony less than two years earlier had already heralded a highly promising large-scale project in which star hotelman Carsten K. Rath had commissioned star designer Marcel Wanders to bring Zurich a grand hotel of the opulent kind. At the time, when we interviewed him, Marcel Wanders let us in on what “the next big thing” would be in the hotel sector: stars alone wouldn’t do any more – today’s guest expects an unforgettable experience! You can find the interview with Marcel Wanders here on our travel blog. From left: Architect Sebastian Knorr, founder/CEO Carsten K. Rath and designer Marcel Wanders Naturally, we were curious to find out how the trio’s high-flying plans were coming to fruition in the harsh reality of the hotel business. Kameha Grand Zürich The Kameha Grand opened its doors on March 1st with – what else – an open house. Located in Glattpark, the new urban district near the airport, the hotel is easily reached from all points of the compass, with the Zurich main train station just 15 minutes away. As in most of his projects, Hollander Marcel Wanders marries his opulent design language with local idiom and the accustomed wink: So, huge cowbells hang from the ceiling in the reception area, in the rooms you will find partitions that look like chocolate bars, and the mini bar is hidden away in what resembles a large bank safe. With the desk made to look like a bank vault, too, we clearly have a theme here. But it doesn’t stop there; the Appenzell paper cuttings and the Toblerone-shaped pillows also remind the guest: this is Switzerland! The new hotel strives to distinguish itself from the pack with clever individuality and richly varied design. Beyond that, founder and CEO Carsten K. Rath stresses the warmth and openness of his staff: The top-class team he has assembled is there to encourage all guests to find their personal favorite spot, be it the Smoker’s Lounge, the Shisha Bar, one of the hotel’s restaurants, the hotel room, or even the roof terrace. Whereby I was easily able to attach myself to the Puregold Bar ;-). Favorite spots for connoisseurs The exclusive Smoker’s Lounge with its noble armchairs and big selection of Cuban and somewhat milder Dominican cigars make the hearts of cigar aficionados beat up-tempo. Large-format backlit photographs further stimulate them to puff away soulfully at the dried and rolled up tobacco leaves. Smoker’s Lounge Right next door, the Shisha Lounge radiates a touch of authentic 1001 Nights ambiance. The Shisha Bar’s oriental ambiance Culinary Moments for Epicures In Restaurant L’UNICO, chef de cuisine Igino Bruni banks on house made pasta, fresh ingredients and craft-brewed Limoncello, no less! Here, too, Marcel Wanders was inspired to do something special: Hanging from the ceiling, a pasta plate six meters in diameter and an the oversized pepper mill spice up the Italian food with some “hot accents.” L’Unico, the hotel’s Italian restaurant Tommaso Cacciapuoti and chefs de cuisine Raoul Mühlan with house made pasta Stylish ambiance in NY NIJYO by Norman Fischer Japanese Restaurant YU NIJYO with chef de cuisine Norman Fischer treats sushi and sake lovers in a soigné dark ambiance. Offered during the day in the Puregold Bar & Lounge are coffee and fine variations on the cupcake, while in the evening the bar – decorated with gold coins – transforms into the perfect watering hole for sipping cocktails and long drinks in a relaxed atmosphere. Rich and varied cup cakes The hotel’s Puregold Bar Apéro snacks in the hotel bar The Rooms and Suites The 245 rooms and suites blend comfort with stylish design and “Swissness.” The rooms vary by size and location. Besides its 224 Premium and Deluxe rooms, the hotel has Executive, Business and Theme Suites (such as the Poker Face Suite, Fair Play Suite or the Diva Suite). We would have been especially keen on seeing the latter, but during the pre-opening they were still putting finishing touches on the suites. Bathroom The Kameha Grand Hotel deliberately dispensed with the usual star rating, because they want the guest to rate the hotel. There is also the fact that many companies have changed their expense account policies to keep staff from booking 5-star lodgings while on the road. A star ranking system hence would automatically shut the hotel out of an attractive market segment. But one thing is clear, stars or no stars: The Kameha Brand Zurich is definitely not your plain vanilla hotel! Check out rates and availability here. And here’s Marcel Wanders himself explaining the design concept: More impressions from the pre-opening event: ## Unique Hotel Post in Zermatt Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/unique-hotel-post-zermatt Following a spectacular panorama ride on the Glacier Express that took us through unbelievably beautiful mountain scenery and past picturesque mountain villages, across chasms and through valleys, our trip came to a fitting end at the foot of the Matterhorn in Zermatt in the Wallis… Zermatt and its Matterhorn Zermatt chose to show itself to us under a cloudy sky the day we arrived, but we still sensed the “certain something” that the renowned ski resort simply radiates: a mix of fashionable luxury destination and idyllic village. It was easy to like. Ancient farm house in in Zermatt The Wallis chalets outdo each other in rustic charm and as dusk slowly deepens into night the lights coming on in the village make for a fascinating show! Zermatt chalets at dusk We would have loved to photograph the legendary Matterhorn as night fell. But, “Horu” – what the locals call the mountain – simply didn’t want to pay us the compliment: time and again, it would drape itself in a hood made of clouds and snow; after half an hour’s wait in the cold my frostbitten shutter finger led us to beat a retreat. Too bad, because this is what it would look like in winter with nothing but sunshine: Matterhorn © Jutta Schilling The Unique Hotel Post Zermatt At the Zermatt terminus of our Glacier Express train trip, we spent the night in the Hotel Post. Renovated top to bottom in the summer of 2007, the hotel presents itself in modern-cheerful mountain lodge style on Bahnhofstrasse in the very heart of where it’s happening in Zermatt. Cozy lounge in the lobby area All 29 of the modern design rooms and suites are furnished with natural materials from the region, including sand-blasted wood and dry-stone walls. The individualized Junior Suites come with fireplace or private Jacuzzi! And anyone with enough change in their pocket and ready for an unusual treat might as well go ahead and without further ado book the Matterhorn Suite… Matterhorn Suite © Hotel Post The Matterhorn Suite’s bathroom © Hotel Post But to enjoy a whirlpool bath, you don’t absolutely “have to” to book the Matterhorn or Junior Suite; your soul can also wash its cares away in the spa area that comes with sauna, steam bath, Jacuzzi and lifestyle showers :-). Small but choice – the Hotel Post’s wellness area Culinary variety Let it be clear up front, no one is going to starve in the Hotel Post! Whether you’re interested in a Mediterranean treat in the Spaghetti & Pizza Factory or a delicious fondue in the Pöstli Stübli, or instead want to partake of the delicacies served in the Portofino Restaurant, there is something to be had for all tastes! Regardless, a fine way to start the evening is over a drink in the trendy lounge bar. Since we had been in Zermatt during the summer three years earlier and stilled our hunger in the Spaghetti & Pizza Factory, we naturally wanted to try something different this time. Upper level of the Spaghetti Factory Restaurant We opted for the Pöstli Stübli. Here they mainly serve specialties from the grill on hot stones, but also on the menu are cheese dishes (fondue and raclette). The atmosphere is rustic-cozy, with our hot stones sizzling to their stony hearts’ delight. Rustic decorations in the Pöstli Stübli Serving typical Swiss specialties Those inclining to more dignified surroundings won’t go wrong in the Portofino Restaurant. Here things proceed a tad more elegantly, coming and going. Portofino Restaurant in Hotel Post After dining in the Hotel Post, you can literally mail it in! Because the hotel has more bars and clubs with live music, no guest has ever not learned to slack off there (or been bored)! We should mention that the Unique Hotel Post moved up twelve spots (from 20th to 8th) during the latest ranking of best winter hotels in the 4-star category! If you enjoy being in the thick of things, and, after a “last one for the road” in the bar or lounge, you know how to value being just a short ride up the elevator from “home,” you will love this gem of a hotel. Check out prices and availability here. Rather have it a bit more sedate? In that case, we can recommend the Matthiol located on the edge of Zermatt. We stayed there two years earlier on the occasion of a family celebration. Our thanks go to… Sincere thanks to the owners Daniela und Martin Perrenas well as to Assistant Manager Marina Gelmi, for coordinating our stay! ## Hotel Chesa Stüva Colani – Hospitality Italian-style Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/design-hotel-chesa-stuva-colani For our ride on the Glacier Express from St. Moritz to Zermatt we were on the lookout for suitable lodgings at the jumping-off point. Since on this occasion the St. Moritz grand hotel scene had less appeal, we diverted to Madulain and checked into the designer Hotel Chesa Stüva Colani. The name alone held plenty of promise, as the design connoisseurs among us will know… Exterior view of the hotel at dusk Hotel Chesa Stüva Colani Madulain, home to this small design hotel, is an idyllic Engadine village about 12 km from St. Moritz. To get us there, we decided to put taxi-limousine operator blacklane.com’s service to the test. And what do you know; you can drive up in a really big, black limousine for not much more than a regular taxi! Not a bad start! The first thing that greets you on entering the lobby is the Italian designer furniture. That is, of course, unless the hotel manager opens the door for you, as in our case ;-). A giant chandelier floats above a long glass table and elegant chairs upholstered in white. After this first visual treat, the roving eye discovers many more eye-catching details, like the pictures frames suspended in air or the assorted candles on display. We are greeted by the Italian “Direttore” Jean Georges Comin and Claudia, the front desk receptionista. As the manager’s name suggests, he is French, but otherwise based in Sicily with the Exclusive Hotel Collection Group. Generally speaking, all of the staff (including the restaurant‘s) seem to have Italian roots. Italian is spoken so matter-of-factly in the hotel that you might think you are in Bella Italia. This also being the case in St. Moritz, where (almost) everyone speaks the language… we were accustomed to it. The Chesa Stüva Colani has a small spa (made up of a Turkish bath and sauna) and a small gym. Having these areas visible from the lobby and watching the fitness hopefuls behind the glass wall might take a little getting used to. No one was getting fit while we were there, so it was all very peaceful. The Rooms and Suites The hotel offers just 13 rooms, with three each of Suites and Junior Suites as well as rooms in the Classic Superior and Classic Standard categories. The rooms are furnished simply but are very comfortable, with plenty of closet space and a generously proportioned bathroom. Every room comes with floor heating that is adjustable by zones to suit personal temperature preferences. A cozy smell of Swiss pine wood pervades the entire house. It helps create a noticeably relaxing atmosphere; in fact, it made it very easy to treat ourselves to a little power nap not long after check-in ;-). The Restaurant The hotel’s restaurant seats a maximum 20 guests and is in the older part of the Chesa (“house” in the Romantsch language.) It is appointed in a rather purist, simple way that comes off as quite stylish. Besides pasta, the entrée menu lists other Italian specialties like broccoli flan with parmesan fondue or Culatello di Zibello “Salumificio Peveri” with pickled vegetables. I went for a smoked salmon in creamy cauliflower sauce. For the main dish I opted for a stock fish cooked in milk accompanied by buckwheat polenta. The dish did not quite come up to the level of Portuguese stock fish. But perhaps I was just idealizing in hindsight all the fine things we ate right by the seashore there… Walter on the other hand was very content with his cheek of veal on potato puree and vegetable fritters. Camera-wise, he may not have done justice to it, but the palate impression after all is what mattered most, sir! For dessert he consoled himself with a carrot muffin in hazelnut soup. And he did manage to get it on film in the attractive convex dish it was served in. Way to go, Walter! Also deserving mention is the respectable wine cellar. From Sassicaia to Ornellaia, here you can find, besides the “normal” Engadine wines, also the noblest Italian vintages. Anyone agonizing over too much choice can profit from the sommelier’s advice right there in the elegant wine cellar, very conveniently just a step from the restaurant. Lighting in the hotel restaurant Summing up: The hotel is well suited for couples looking for design and quiet and who like supping well in a beautiful ambiance. The spa area is not worth the drive to Madulain; for that you would be better off in one of the wellness hotels. Incidentally, we chose the train for the return trip to St. Moritz, not being at all sure of how many meters of snow would fall during the night. The train station is located an easy 100 meters walk from the hotel. Just don’t forget to push the stop button (stop on demand), otherwise the train will fly right through the station…but don’t push it too soon, because then it stops the train coming from the other direction. One push of the button is good for 15 minutes, although in Switzerland that can mean be good for more than one train. But it’s less complicated than it sounds here! And, for anyone intending to hop on the Glacier Express, there’s no need to drive all the way to St. Moritz, because the Gelati Express (to use the conductor’s slang) also stops in Samedan or Chur. Grazie mille… … to the “direttore” for the hospitality and to Claudia from reception for organizing our entire stay! ## By Glacier Express from St. Moritz to Zermatt Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/glacier-express-stmoritz-zermatt By Railtour’s invitation, we rode the rails in the world’s most famous train… and what a thrill it was! The tendency is to keep postponing a ride on the Glacier Express for far too long into the future: after all, it’s right there, practically on your doorstep; it’s doable “anytime”… But really, don’t keep putting off a trip on the “Gelati Express” (as our train conductor called it) – it’s a once-in-a-lifetime thrill! Glacier Express bar and observation cars There are indeed a number of trains with such evocative names. Just say them slowly and let their romantic promise sink in: “Orient Express” or “Rovos Rail” and “Blue Train” for Southern Africa. In the Canadian Rockies, there is the no less spectacular sounding “Rocky Mountaineer” luxury train. And then there is indeed the famous “Glacier Express” with its legendary observation cars and the highly fashionable departure and destination points of St. Moritz and Zermatt… The Glacier Express is titled the “the world’s slowest express train”: Normally, the trip takes you from St. Moritz via Chur, Disentis, Andermatt and Brig to Zermatt in about eight-hours. Or vice versa. It is a day trip that ranges over 291 bridges and 91 tunnels, past breathtaking mountain backdrops and quaint mountain villages, over chasms and wonderful valleys. Not wanting to shoot our bolt all in on one day (or sit in the train for that long), we broke the trip in Andermatt, where we overnighted in the much-commented “The Chedi Andermatt“. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves… The legendary Glacier Express Riding the Glacier Express is the classic among scenic journeys through Switzerland. One highlight chases the next here! They’ll tell you all you need to know over headphones (in six languages; you don’t need to speak all of them) about what lies along the route that cuts right through the Alps. Here is just a selection of highlights: Albula/Bernina – the UNESCO World Heritage route: Between Preda and Bergüng lies the most spectacular part of the route, with six high viaducts, three spiral and two loop-back tunnels making the climb up a 400 meter grade differential possible. It’s enough to give you vertigo…but it doesn’t; it’s not a Pendolino tilting train, after all. Swiss Rhine Gorge – Switzerland’s Grand Canyon. The rockslides that took place after the end of the Ice Age formed today’s unique canyon landscape. Oberalp Pass – the engine goes into cogwheel mode to work its way up to 2,033 meters above sea level, the highest point in the pass and on the Glacier Express route. The Rhone Glacier – a nine-kilometer long natural wonder in the canton of Wallis. Zermatt and the legendary Matterhorn. Naturally, here too the clever cogwheel system is engaged. Although the majority of tourists prefer to ride the Glacier Express during the warm seasons, we deliberately chose winter for our trip, because we are simply enthralled by snowy landscapes. Ortenstein castle and church of Tumegl/Tomils in snowy Graubünden Snowy landscape in Graubünden Samedan’s church in wintry magic Kudos to our Japanese friends from the “Swiss Fan Club“. Thanks to them I found out which castle and churches we actually photographed ;-) The weather was favorably inclined toward us – at least on the first route segment from St. Moritz to Andermatt. On the first day of our journey, the panorama offered itself to us like a Swiss winter’s fairy tale. The landscape covered with deep snow glistened everywhere like a fantastic winter wonderland! On the second leg, from Andermatt to Zermatt, on the other hand, we were not so lucky. But even with blowing snow and uncounted snowflakes whirling, the route still had its charm. In any case, we thought the trip was fantastic start to finish! On the way to Zermatt near Täsch But we got the chance to see the world famous Matterhorn during another trip we made to Zermatt. Chalets and Matterhorn in Zermatt If you need some inspiration what to do in Zermatt, check out our travelogues about Zermatt here. Service on the Glacier Express Just to complete the adventure with a bit of Swissness, you get entertained with Swiss music on channels 7 and 8. While on channel 7 they delight you with traditional Swiss music (Ländler, i.e. folk dance music), those less rooted in the local soil can avail themselves of channel 8, where Swiss singers like Bligg, Büne Huber and others will treat you to songs of Switzerland. Glacier Express seats To keep passengers from starving en route, scrumptious local delicacies are offered as well as a complete menu of the day. And they serve you right at your observation car seat! Drinks and snacks are also available in the Panorama Bar. It doesn’t get any better! Walter waving from the Glacier Express You can find all the details, such as trip information and schedules, on the Glacier Express website. Our thanks go to… Many thanks to Railtour for the generous invitation! Besides the Glacier Express journey, Railtour also offers other terrific adventures by train . With Railtour on Glacier Express expedition Ah! Lest I forget, the Chedi Andermatt is awesome! Here is the review to tell that story… ## Luxury at its Best – The Chedi Andermatt Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/the-chedi-andermatt Having read a great deal about the Chedi Andermatt Hotel and after getting many positive comments on it, we had planned for some time to visit this hotel setting new standards in the luxury Alpine hotel business. Our trip on the Glacier Express naturally was the perfect “vehicle” for slotting in a stop in the heart of the Swiss Alps to explore The Chedi Andermatt. Did we mention that it was chosen last December as the best winter hotel in Switzerland? Just one more reason to accelerate our timetable and finally make it happen! The Chedi Andermatt – The Hotel Right across from the Andermatt train station, this masterpiece by the Egyptian investor Samih Sawiris comes on like a super-sized chalet. And yet its appearance is anything but monumental. The complex made up of several buildings really blends quite naturally with its Andermatt context. Exterior night time view of the Chedi Enter the lobby and you bid adieu to charming reticence: We could hardly believe our eyes…instantly, the very modern reception area practically radiates a very special ambiance. Crystal designer lamps sparkling exquisitely like square cut diamond bracelets hanging over the bar add just one more perfect touch of glamor to the scene. Bar with designer lights Next to the reception, a generously sized and stylishly equipped seating landscape with fireplace raises the comfort level by another notch. Lounge with fireplace in the reception area But even as we continue to explore the hotel’s other public areas we are struck again and again by this “comfortable, nonchalant elegance,” radiating throughout. Everywhere, we encounter expertly staged Oriental-Asian elements with just a hint of Swissness. Cozy lounge Orchids flowers in the lobby The rooms and suites As we enter our generous Deluxe Suite, we are once more blown away by the same “wow factor” as earlier in the lobby. Stylish furnishings, noble materials and a multitude of small details captivate immediately! So, to give just one example, with the room’s iPad you control the butler service, adjust the room temperature, lights, and window coverings or you can hang out an electronic “do not disturb” sign for housekeeping. Technical infrastructure at its coolest! Generously-sized living area in the Deluxe Suite Wood, leather, stone and glass are stylishly combined in elegant fashion. Living room of our Deluxe Suite Deluxe Suite Bathroom of our Deluxe Suite The bathroom – nearly as big as my bedroom back home! – is equipped with a freestanding bathtub and one of the biggest rain showers anywhere. A sensor controls the ventilation in the toilet automatically – how ingenious! Bathroom with freestanding tub in the Deluxe Suite The Restaurants This 5-star establishment is a member of the GHM Group, which is especially strongly represented in the Asian area. It is therefore not much of a stretch that in things culinary as well a subtle Asian flair is evident. So, in the four show kitchens of the gourmet “The Restaurant” Asian and European dishes are prepared in full view of the guests watching the spectacle. Restaurant with show kitchen Rivaling the show kitchens, the five-meter high “cheese cellar” is another eye catcher! Cheese tower attention-getter in The Restaurant The breakfast buffet is top of the line! The selection on offer here leaves no wish unfulfilled, from a variety of breads to patisserie, cold cuts, cheeses and plenty of fresh-pressed juices, too; you really can find everything here to start your Andermatt day with plenty of energy. Delicious Eggs Benedict for breakfast Incidentally, what we noticed already at check-in was repeated in the restaurant: an extremely friendly and attentive service staff helped us feel instantly at ease. The unusually high proportion of Swiss on the service team is another surprise. Restaurant at Chedi Andermatt Beef filet with fregola Dessert Coffee with Grappa Not least to be found on the premises is the “The Japanese” restaurant, offering authentic Japanese delicacies at the tempura and a sushi/sashimi bar. Spa area of superlatives The 2,400 m2 spa and fitness area is overwhelming, especially the 35 Meter indoor pool with a companion heated outdoor pool! 35 meter indoor pool In addition to ten treatment cabins, the wellness area includes a sauna landscape with bio and Finnish saunas as well as a sole biosteam bath and hydrothermal bath. Hydrothermal bath Andermatt Swiss Alps Egyptian investor Samih Sawiris has big plans for Andermatt. The concept is to build the “Andermatt Swiss Alps” resort with six hotels in the 4- and 5-star categories, 490 vacation homes in 42 buildings and roughly 25 exclusive chalets and convention facilities when completed. Andermatt Resort concept With the Chedi opening, he has already achieved the first milestone, something he can be more than proud of without question. To us, the 5-star hotel seemed extremely well-executed and a delight despite its imposing scale! Sawiris himself confided in an interview with the NZZ (Neue Zürcher Zeitung, Zurich’s daily newspaper) that he was most impressed, among other things, with the lobby restrooms as well as the spa area with its outsized swimming hall. Floor done in Alpine Chic The indoor pool really is awesome! Still, we were also impressed by some entirely different hotel amenities; for example: the elegant ski room styled like a living room (we’ve NEVER seen anything like it!), the sensor-controlled restroom ventilation, and the modern iPad controls. Luxurious ski room in the Chedi Andermatt A Chedi stay is surely no steal. To indulge in this luxury during the off-season, you will casually count out cool CHF 700 for a room. You can have the Deluxe Suite during high season for just CHF 1,400! From the aspect of price, too, you will lodge here in the major leagues. But really…once you’ve saved up the necessary “change,” you really owe yourself the treat of a night at the Chedi for a special occasion. Come now, it doesn’t have to be the suite, does it? ;-) Know that the standard room already measures an unbelievable 52 m2, and the hotel with its public areas and the spa alone make it worthwhile. Our thanks go to… Great thanks to Sven Flory, Sales Manager and Christian Henker, Marketing & Communications Manager, who made our stay possible. Also, a big compliment to the extremely friendly staff. We felt completely taken care of without being fawned over. Great job! ## The Wing Lounge in Hong Kong, en route from Paris to Auckland Source: https://travelmemo.com/china/cathay-pacific-wing-lounge-hong-kong Six hours in the Cathay Pacific Wing Lounge in Hong Kong was just not long enough. I was sorely tempted to hide in the luxurious bathroom-shower cubicles and miss my flight so I could partake of even more of the fine cuisine and wines. Rejuvenated after an indecently-long hot shower with ceiling-mounted monsoon head and wall-mounted faucets, and pampering with all the toiletries, I proceeded to test all the food on both levels of the lounge. No disrespect to French and Swiss cuisine but after a month of chocolate, bread, cheese, creamy sauces, pastries and potatoes, the freshness and taste explosion of Chinese food was divine. I fooled myself the dishes were all healthy and ate them in greedy proportions. Healthy Chinese Food Populated by a mixture of smartly-attired Chinese and European businessmen, a handful of incredibly well-behaved lounge-seasoned children with their books and iPads and a sprinkling of Kiwis and Aussies, whose comfortable, capable, unremarkable looks seem to stand out all around the world, the lounge was an oasis of quiet and relaxation in the midst of the huge sprawling airport, one of world’s busiest. Elegant Wing Lounge in Hong Kong We became friendly with the upstairs barman, Brian, who insisted on keeping our glasses topped up with Moët as we perched at his elegant white marble-top bar overlooking the runway and the cable cars transporting people to Lantou Island. Customers were drinking all manner of exotic cocktails, beers and wines but I was happy with my bubbly. Barman Brian Brian insisted we stay until 5.30pm to watch the orange-red sunset, a spectacular site through the Hong Kong sea mist. Sunset from the Wing Lounge in Hong Kong Airport On his recommendation, we then went to the Noodle Bar restaurant to sample the famous Chinese steamed BBQ pork bao – sweet and tasty – and dandan mien Shanghainese-style noodles with crushed peanuts – hot and spicy. The Noodle Bar Other temptations were the Japanese ramen noodles in soup with assorted vegetables, Vietnamese noodles with shredded chicken, pan fried beef bao, egg custard bao, won tons with noodles and vegetarian ramen noodles with Japanese grilled green pepper. At the downstairs buffet, I tried the roasted chicken leg with coriander yoghurt sauce, shrimp and pork dumplings, sautéed mixed vegetables, steamed bok choy (my all-time favourite), fried rice with shrimps and chicken and hot, sour soup with seafood, followed by a huge plate of fresh fruit to make up for all that we had missed in the preceding month. For the smaller appetite or a snack on the run between tight flights, there were rolls and sandwiches with tuna and corn salad, “farmer” meat loaf, tomato and egg salad, cheeses, croissants, Danish pastries, sausage rolls, chocolate chippie muffins and vanilla loaf. The coffee lounge served designer coffee, sausage rolls and raspberry jam doughnuts sandwiches, rolls, biscuits, pistachio croissants, pain au chocolat and spinach puff pastries. After my epic bathroom and wine and food experiences, I played Goldilocks in the armchairs, couches, work spaces, IT and quiet zones and enclosed nooks and alcoves. It was such a treat to sit, snooze, feast, drink, read and recharge communications and personal batteries before returning to reality. Justine in the Wing Lounge Hong Kong Cloud warfare I was restless on the last leg of the journey home. After my vegetarian sea shell pasta with creamy spinach and tomato sauce, toasted pinenuts and parmesan cheese – as if I needed any more sustenance after my Wing Lounge food orgy – I lifted my window shade (I’m a slow learner!) to peek at Port Moresby by night. I wish I hadn’t. There was one hell of an altercation going on in the distance with the various local tribal cloud dwellers firing flaming spears at each other. It was getting out of hand so I slammed the shade down fast, disturbing a few fellow passengers in so doing, but I felt compelled to sneak a surreptitious peak every 30 seconds or so to ensure the war remained far away on the horizon. Flight attendant Thomas assured me it was all OK. I put in a special request, if need be, to limp on to Cairns rather than land in PNG. But by the time we were over the Torres Strait, all was quiet in the sky again. We had left the angry combatants far behind. Our pilot had obviously taken evasive action as there wasn’t even the slightest flutter of the wings to indicate any turbulence. We landed in Auckland without a hitch. Thank you! Justine and Chris Justine Tyerman flew Cathay Pacific* from Paris, France to Auckland, New Zealand via Hong Kong (CX 197, A340-300, 11 hours) enjoying Himalayas from on high. *Cathay Pacific was voted the World’s Best Airline for the fourth time in the 2014 Skytrax Awards. Cathay Pacific offers daily connections between Paris and Auckland via Hong Kong and will commence flying between Zurich and Hong Kong from 29 March 2015. Visit www.cathaypacific.com for the latest airfares. ## Himalayas from on high Source: https://travelmemo.com/china/himalayas-cathay-pacific-flight Flying out of Charles de Gaulle Airport was an emotional affair. Having spent a few weeks on a long-planned, European Alps ski tour with our far-flung adult off-spring, I was not sure when we would see them again… or whether this was my last-ever glimpse of Paris. Cathay Pacific’s CX 278, B777 300ER aircraft boarded efficiently and we had excellent seats to Hong Kong thanks to the super-friendly, helpful Fahd on the check-in desk in Paris, three seats for the two of us by the window. There was spacious legroom and a good degree of recline, unlike some seat backs that do not recline at all. A Kiwi voice came over the PA system and knowing (telepathically) how special this flight was to me, the pilot gave us a spectacular aerial tour of Paris by night. Paris by night It was a rare cloudless mid-winter evening as we circled Paris with the wing tip pivoting on the tip of the Eiffel Tower, like a ballerina doing a pirouette on a pointed toe. The powerful tower-top beam swept the city, illuminated with dazzling festive lights. Notre Dame in bright blue, the molten toffee of the Seine and the orange-ringed Île de la Cité where we had stayed before Christmas, were clearly visible below us. Tears streaming down my cheeks, I scrambled for my camera, fumbled the settings and lost the opportunity to capture some epic images. As we left Paris behind us, the cabin manager with the smoothest, sexiest voice imaginable, announced drinks and dinner. I consoled myself with a brandy over Koblenz, a chardonnay over Berlin or maybe Brandenburg and tasty pesto marinated chicken breast with sautéed gnocchi and chunky peperonata somewhere over Hungary – which seemed appropriate. Thereafter I watched the surprisingly-hilarious The Grand Seduction about a fishing village in Newfoundland, and The Good Lie, a tear-jerker about the Lost Boys of Sudan, interspersed with checking the flight map information. I dozed for a short time, then suddenly awoke and broke a cardinal long-haul flight rule. I peeked out the window during the official do-not-raise-your-window-shade period and to make matters much worse, I let out a squeal which was apparently audible above the noise of the jet engines and was met with mutterings in a number of different languages. I have to look out the window regularly while flying because I am obsessed with high-altitude geography and watching the flight map information. I need to look at the topography of the earth-scape and plot our course as we zip along at 500kmh. What’s the point of requesting a window seat if you don’t gaze in wonder at the sights below from 35,000 feet? It’s not something you get to do every day unless you are an angel or a pilot. We were over the Himalayas and I was wildly excited to see the roof of the world – but no one else seemed remotely interested. Himalayas from on high So I dutifully lowered my window shade, extricated myself from my window seat and went to hang out at the back of the plane where I had free and unfettered, shades-up access to the two rear door windows. Once the lovely flight attendants Janice and Rita from Hong Kong were confident that I was not intent on nefarious deeds, they were happy for me to flit from one window to the other. It was Janice’s first flight from Paris to Hong Kong and she was so impressed with the view, she began taking photos too. She also phoned the flight deck on my behalf to confirm we were in fact flying over the Himalayas. Janice and Rita on Cathay Pacific, Paris to Hong Kong, CX 278 It was a crystal clear day with bright sunshine and perfect visibility so I could see right to the curved horizon. It was like looking down at a 3D relief map with all the detail of mountains, lakes, rivers, valleys, deserts, roads and settlements laid out on a giant table below me. Breathtaking… Mercifully, it was a smooth, calm flight so I stayed down the back of the back for hours, my nose pressed against the frosted windows to get a better view of the staggeringly-beautiful landscape. At one stage we flew over a desert with vast white mountain ranges on either side. The grey-brown, snow-dusted expanse was broken only by the silver sliver of a river, the smooth white surface of a frozen lake, or alluvial aprons spilling from the deep valleys at the foot of the mountains onto the endless plains. As we flew on, squiggles of colour suggested human habitation, a patch of green land near a battery of solar panels, a glint from a vehicle on a road to nowhere, zigzag tracks up steep mountains sides terraced for cultivation, a cluster of dwellings on the narrow valley floor, a frozen hydro dam in a deep gorge. I couldn’t help but wonder at the harsh life those people must be living as we flew over in our comfortable, air-conditioned capsule. Another plane whizzed by far below, leaving a vapour trail behind to merge with ours as the mist and cloud stole away my view. I felt enormously privileged to have witnessed such an extraordinarily beautiful sight and told my cabin crew friends the route should be declared a scenic flight with compulsory window shades up on a clear day. It’s the closest I’ll ever get to the Himalayas. Before returning to my seat, I watched Janice and Rita preparing to serve the next meal, taking the hot dishes out of the oven and stacking the trays in the trolley. They moved so fast their hands were a blur. I was full of admiration for these petite, capable young women who managed to remain elegant, perfectly-groomed and sweet-natured despite 11 or 12 hours aloft. Meanwhile other flight attendants were busy cleaning and restocking the bathrooms with hand wash, hand cream, face moisturiser and tissues. I’m sure they cleaned the toilets after every passenger because they were immaculate, fully-stocked and fragrant whenever I visited them as part of my “survey”. To cap off our scenic flight, the landing in Hong Kong was textbook, the softest, gentlest touch-down I have ever experienced… in fact I did not believe we were actually on the ground until the engine noise and cabin manager with that wonderful mellifluous voice verified the fact. Good old Kiwi pilot! Once arrived at Hong Kong Airport we enjoyed the Wing Lounge. Justine Tyerman flew Cathay Pacific from Paris, France to Auckland, New Zealand via Hong Kong. *Cathay Pacific was voted the World’s Best Airline for the fourth time in the 2014 Skytrax Awards. Cathay Pacific offers daily connections between Paris and Auckland via Hong Kong and will commence flying between Zurich and Hong Kong from 29 March 2015. Visit www.cathaypacific.com for the latest airfares. ## A royal sojourn in Chalet Royalp in the Swiss Alps Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/chalet-royalp-hotel-spa-villars Justine Tyerman from New Zealand delights in the five-star pampering at a Swiss alpine resort in Villars-sur-Ollon. I had to put handcuffs on my husband when we arrived at the magnificent Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa high in the Swiss Vaud Alps village of Villars-sur-Ollon. As a Kiwi bloke – (i.e. a male New Zealander) – he is accustomed to carrying his own suitcases, parking his own vehicle, organising his own ski gear . . . and turning down his own bed. However, at the sumptuous five-star Chalet RoyAlp, guests are treated like royalty as the name suggests and the staff ensure that they are on holiday in every sense of the word. The only ‘duties’ guests need to perform are to relax and make good use of the superb facilities at their disposal. From the welcoming receptionists at the front desk to the friendly waiters and van drivers who scurry around making your stay effortless and trouble-free, the service is seamless. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, the RoyAlp opened in 2008 and comprises four interconnected traditional Swiss chalets with 63 rooms and suites overlooking the breathtaking Dents du Midi, a mountain range with peaks reaching a height of 3257 metres. Mountain view from the hotel The grand entrance to the luxury five-star Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa high in the Swiss Vaud Alps village of Villars-sur-Ollon The magnificent view of the mountains from the balcony of our room at Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa© Chalet Royalp Hotel & Spa The alpine panorama from the sun-drenched balcony of our spacious double room was so mesmerising, it was difficult to drag ourselves away, but skiing was top of the agenda. Hadrien fitting boots Short on time and wanting to maximise the opportunities on a sunny day with good snow, our lift passes were conveniently waiting for us at the reception desk. Jessy, the extremely obliging and personable RoyAlp courtesy van driver took us straight to Sports House ski shop where handsome Hadrien kitted us out in 15 minutes with the latest Dynastar Active skis which suited the conditions very well. Jessy then dropped us at the foot of the high-speed 6-seater Villars-Roc d’Orsay télécabine and told us to call him as soon as we had finished skiing for the day whereupon he would collect us. Never has skiing been so easy and stress-free. Hadrien & Jessy No queuing for lift tickets, no searching for a car park, no walking long distances in ski boots carrying skis and poles. My husband began to warm to the concept. The Villars-Gryon-Diablerets-Glacier 3000 domain at an altitude of 1300 to 3000m boasts 125km of pistes and 45 lifts. If that doesn’t offer enough scope, Villars belongs to the wider Alpes Vaudoises ski and snowboard area, a staggeringly-vast domain which includes 630km of pistes and 188 lifts. We skied early in the season on a gloriously sunny, blue sky day with just enough snow to ski right to the foot of the mountain at the end of the day . . . and the promise of fresh snow on the horizon. A ski poles’ salute by Justine to a fabulous blue-sky day at Villars ski area Thrill seekers can venture across the new 107m Peak Walk from the Glacier 3000 View Point Peak to Scex Rouge, the world’s first and only suspension bridge to connect two mountain peaks, opened in October 2014. (Check out Walter’s excellent account of his experiences.) Peak walk by Tissot on Glacier 3000 And at the end of a fabulous day on the slopes, there was our courtesy coach waiting to deliver us to the front door of our luxurious establishment. Absolute bliss. I headed straight to the Jacuzzi in Le Spa by RoyAlp complex. It’s a delicious treat to extricate your feet from the vice grip of ski-boots, peel off all the thermal layers and submerge yourself in hot bubbles, watching a flurry of snowflakes drift silently down outside. I was momentarily tempted to roll in the snow, Scandinavian-style . . . but I waited until the urge had passed and had another glass of bubbly instead! A day’s skiing was not quite energetic enough for my husband who proceeded to do a work-out on every piece of equipment in the state-of-the-art fitness centre, steam himself in one of the saunas and do several laps of the huge indoor heated pool with its own roaring open fireplace before joining me in the Jacuzzi. Unfortunately, he didn’t quite have time for a session in the marble hammam. Guests can leave their ski gear in the heated locker area, collect it in the morning and walk just 30 metres to the train station which takes them directly up to the Bretaye Plateau in the heart of Villars ski field. Next day, there was a serious blizzard which delivered much-needed snow to the slopes and enabled guests to ski right to the hotel door. After a comprehensive tour of Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa conducted by sales representative Jérémy Derhille, it is easy to see why the facilities have won the World Luxury Spa award and Best Luxury Destination Spa in Europe for 2013-14. The 1200sqm complex with six treatment rooms and a private spa with its own Jacuzzi, sauna, mini-bar and fireplace are a haven of relaxation and tranquillity. Massage and beauty treatments of every description are available including the exclusive CellCosmet (for women) and Cellmen (for men) anti-ageing, healing and revitalisation skincare range, unique to Royalp. There are over 50 different treatments – body scrubs, wraps, manicures, pedicures, eyelashes, brows and waxing – to pamper every part of the body. Le Spa by RoyAlp manager Estelle Gomes will design a treatment just for you. But for those who want to take health and beauty enhancement to the highest level, behind a discrete door in Le Spa is Laclinic, the famous Montreux-based beauty and appearance medicine practice whose specialists hold regular consultations with patients at RoyAlp. Established in 2002 by renowned cosmetic surgeon Dr Pfulg, Laclinic entered a collaboration with Chalet RoyAlp in October 2014 to offer Séjour, complete personalised programmes combining dietary and medical consultation, health treatments, fitness, revitalisation and relaxation. Designed for weight loss, the dietary programme (seven days or more) involves blood tests, ultrasound cellulite treatments, cardiovascular risk assessments, personal fitness training, culinary workshops, massages, detox and slimming Cellcosmet treatments. Those on the revitalisation programme (two days or more) also undergo blood-tests and a detailed biological analysis and receive daily injections of custom cells preparations and oxygenotherapy among many other aesthetic therapies. There could be no better place for such a clinic, within the spectacular uplifting alpine environment where even the air tastes pure and sweet after the grey gloom of winter in the city. For months of the winter season, the weather is sunny, bright and clear, a healing balm for the soul and spirit, as well as the body. There is something so energising and invigorating about the alps. The environment would put even the most stressed and dispirited person in a positive, refreshed frame of mind. Jérémy says the hotel regularly hosts famous actors, musicians, sports stars, royalty and other celebrities. Their anonymity is fiercely guarded but I was given a tour of several of the 23 salubrious apartments they call home. Mezzanine lounge These are palatial multi-level abodes up to 270sqm which would more accurately be described as substantial privately-owned homes within the hotel. The Royal, a four-bedroom, four-bathroom apartment, opulent beyond belief with magnificent artworks and statues, belonged to a member of the Spanish royal family. The Edelweiss is on three levels and is favoured by the owner because there is ample room for the nanny and driver to stay. The spacious living area, open fire and kitchen in one of the grand multi-level apartments at the Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa We were deliriously happy with our spacious beautifully-appointed standard double room, at least twice the size of a normal hotel room with a grand entrance way, walk-in wardrobe, huge corner bath, Italian tiled shower with dual rain head and wall-mounted faucets, Hermes toiletries, a large sunny balcony with gorgeous mountain panoramas and twin king-sized beds made up with the smoothest of sheets, feather-light individual down duvets and pillows as soft as clouds. Heavy woollen curtains and central heating kept the room cosy and warm while a blizzard raged outside. Our bedroom at the Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa with twin king-sized beds made up with the smoothest of sheets, feather-light individual down duvets and pillows as soft as clouds I loved the RoyAlp’s individually and creatively-decorated small intimate lounges, many with genuine open log fires, for guests to relax, socialise, read and daydream. All tastes and ages are catered for with a crèche and kids’ club for little ones supervised by trained nannies, a games room with a big screen for teens, an outside children’s playground, a billiard room, library-reading lounge, cinema and even cigar and smoking rooms. My preferred fireplace The Christmas decorations all around the hotel were gorgeous, especially the giant Christmas tree and curtain of lights at the main entrance. I was also intrigued with the fascinating wildlife sculptures and artwork throughout the RoyAlp. A boutique sells locally-made products and “lots of fur fashions for our Russian guests” who make up an important part of the clientele from January 1 until January 10, Russian Christmas and New Year, says Jérémy. The hotel has a number of excellent restaurants – The Grizzly, hence the bear statuary, is a typical woody Swiss restaurant with stone floors, woollen curtains and an open fire, devoted to traditional cheese delicacies like raclette and fondue; the Roche Grise is a brasserie serving delicious Mediterranean entrees, fish, meat, pasta, vegetarian, pizza and burger dishes; the BeAR’s Bar serves a wide range of tapas and snacks all day with a DJ playing music in the background. But the pièce de résistance is La Table d’Hôtes, the Host’s Table, a cosy three-sided dining alcove set up in the very heart of the kitchen, where guests can enjoy dinner while observing the culinary art of the master chef. A novel and highly-popular experience. The Grizzly at Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa, a typical woody Swiss restaurant with stone floors, woollen curtains and an open fire, serves traditional cheese delicacies like raclette and fondue Downstairs is a wine cellier where guests can sample the world’s best at degustations conducted by the expert winekeeper. The RoyAlp also has superb event and conference facilities for up to 250 delegates and hosts five to eight weddings a year. With access to outside terraces and gardens, conference organisers would need to keep the curtains closed or fit delegates with blinkers to avoid the distraction of the breathtaking views. It was still snowing on the morning of our departure so we could not ski and had time to indulge in a leisurely breakfast. Such an experience cannot be rushed at the RoyAlp as it takes some time just to explore the options available. I overindulged on the mini sausages, bacon, cooked tomatoes, roesti and fabulous bread, and then decided to balance my excesses with fruit, cereals and Swiss yoghurts. What a treat to enjoy such an array of fresh summer fruit while watching snowflakes fall from the heavens. Breakfast buffet The perfect mix of friendly and warm yet refined and professional; elegant and sophisticated yet personal and attentive; tranquil, restful and soothing but with a myriad of resources and facilities for activities, we found it difficult to move on from Villars and the Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa, especially with the promise of sunshine on a blanket of fresh snow. In no time at all, my husband had became quite accustomed to five-star lifestyle and decided that finding a car park and walking to the lifts at our next stop was all a bit of a chore . . . not to mention turning down his own bed cover at night. Justine Tyerman was a guest of Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa. She skied courtesy of Tele-Villars-Gryon, Villars-Gryon Tourism Office and Sports House and travelled in Switzerland on the Swiss Travel Pass. Justine Tyerman flew Cathay Pacific from Auckland, New Zealand to Paris, France via Hong Kong, then travelled by train to Geneva and rental car to Villars-sur-Ollon. Factbox To stay at the Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa: www.RoyAlp.ch To learn more about Villars-Gryon: www.villars.ch To rent or buy ski equipment: www.sportshouse.ch To learn more about Switzerland: www.myswitzerland.com To book the Swiss Travel Pass: www.myswitzerland.com/rail Travel Tips * For ease of travel in Switzerland, buy a Swiss Travel Pass which allows you to travel on all public transport in Switzerland – trains, boats and buses including the public transport networks of 75 towns and cities across the entire country. The Swiss Travel Pass (from three to 15 days) also allows free entry to more than 480 museums and gives holders 50 percent off most of the magnificent mountain railways. There are many options including the Swiss Travel Pass for Youth which gives travellers under 26 years a 15 percent discount and, best of all, the Swiss Family Card which entitles children under 16 accompanied by a parent with a Swiss Travel Pass, to travel for free. * Cathay Pacific was voted the World’s Best Airline for the fourth time in the 2014 Skytrax Awards. Cathay Pacific offers daily connections to Paris via Hong Kong and will commence flying between Hong Kong and Zurich from 29 March 2015. Visit www.cathaypacific.com for the latest airfares to Paris or Zurich and airfare/train combinations to Basel or Geneva. * Ski wear: We wore 100 percent fine merino wool ski wear designed and made by New Zealand company Mons Royale: www.monsroyale.com and New Zealand-designed mittens by Nivose: www.nivosegear.com ## La Petite Table Gourmet Restaurant in the Swiss Alps Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/petite-table-restaurant-gryon After a day’s skiing in the Swiss alps, Justine Tyerman is treated to a gourmet dinner in the village of Gryon. There is no better way to celebrate a stunning day on the ski slopes than with dinner by an open fire, fine wine and great company. After a day at Villars, tourism manager Dominique Geissberger took us to an exquisite restaurant, La Petite Table, in Gryon. Owned and managed by Jean-Paul and Beatrice Tossens, the establishment is warm and mellow with wonderful ambiance, and the food was lovingly prepared and proudly presented. La Petite Table Restaurant in Gryon after a fresh fall of snow© La Petite Table Beatrice and Jean-Paul Tossens, the owners of the La Petite Table Restaurant in Gryon The warm, mellow ambiance of La Petite Table Restaurant in Gryon© La Petite Table We began with a sablé, a local cheese biscuit and a delightful bottle of Les Menades white wine from the Meylan Cave in the Ollon district, followed by a rich, deep red fruity Gamay du Chablais from the Bernard Cave also in Ollon. We were then treated to a special scrambled egg mousse with bacon. Delicious. I chose blanquette de veau as my main course, a tasty, hearty veal casserole with mushrooms, potatoes and carrots while my husband opted for a tender beef steak and Caesar salad. We enjoyed the dishes immensely. The desserts were all too tempting but we finished with biscuits, sweets and tea. A stunning gastronomic experience in a beautiful, cosy environment. As we dined, Dominique told us about Villars and the history of the region. One of the first areas to be developed for winter tourism back in the early 1900s, Villars is a picture-perfect village on a natural terrace 1300m above sea level, overlooking the Rhone Valley. Switzerland’s first ski lift was built at Chaux Ronde in 1936 and by 1938, Villars was classed as one of the top resorts in Europe. Viewed by the über-rich as a safe haven for the education of their children, Villars has long been famous for its prestigious international schools. In the years before WW2 there were 37 such colleges. The five French and English language school that remain today educate more than 800 students a year aged from three to 18 years and are among the most expensive in the world. When their parents and families visit, they stay just up the road at the five-star Chalet RoyAlp Hotel and Spa. Dominique said the resort of Villars-Gryon (population 4000) had been highly innovative and courageous in tourism promotion, launching their Free Access Card in 2006 which gives free and unlimited access to over 30 mountain transport facilities and sports and leisure activities to all guests who spend a night in the resort from June to October. The card has been a great success, raising the summer occupancy in the resort’s hotels to 45 percent, close to the winter occupancy of 55 percent. The nearby 18-hole golf course, a rarity in the alpine setting, is a great attraction in the summer season, along with hiking and cycling. In the winter season, all children under the age of nine years ski free and stay free in their parents’ rooms in many hotels. Dominique said the resort was among the first to introduce a free activities pass, a move now copied by many others. The resort is also a leader in sustainability and minimising the impact of tourism development on the environment. Villars-Gryon is a stunning resort for all seasons. Lunch in the sun and the snow at La Petite Table Restaurant© La Petite Table FACTBOX To dine at La Petite Table: www.lapetitetable-restaurant.com/gryon To stay at the Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa: www.RoyAlp.ch To learn more about Villars-Gryon: www.villars.ch To book the Swiss Travel Pass: www.myswitzerland.com/rail Justine Tyerman was a guest of La Petite Table and Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa. She flew Cathay Pacific from Auckland, New Zealand to Paris, France via Hong Kong, then travelled by train to Geneva and rental car to Villars-sur-Ollon. ## Opulent Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron Source: https://travelmemo.com/austria/hotel-schloss-leopoldskron-salzburg I was ready for an unforgettable weekend at Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron. But what I ultimately experienced, discovered and tasted exceeded all my expectations. This patch of earth is unique and leaves a profound impression that makes you long to come back. Schloss Leopoldskron I can’t say I hang out much in palaces. But the ones where I did all tended to have in common thick red ropes, off-limits signs, and locked private rooms. It is a totally different story at Schloss Leopoldskron. Stay here as a guest and you are privileged with the freedom of the entire private estate. The private property is comprised of the Schloss (English: palace), the Meierhof, palace garden and a gorgeous park. You enjoy breakfast in the opulent Marble Room and roam freely through the other magnificent palace rooms. Throughout reigns a very special atmosphere. I freely confess that I was in awe during the palace tour. Already on entering the great hall, I felt deeply impressed and at the same time very much at ease. The turbulent history of Schloss Leopoldskron begins in the 17th century. It was built as the family residence for Salzburg’s Prince Archbishop Leopold Anton Freiherr von Firmian and remained in the family for almost 100 years . In 1918, Max Reinhardt, then Europe’s most famous theater impresario, bought the palace and together with Richard Strauss and Hugo von Hoffmansthal in 1920 founded the Salzburg Festival. In 1947, three Harvard students conceived the idea of organizing an international conference between Europeans and Americans from which developed the first session of the Salzburg Global Seminar. Today, the palace is used primarily for seminars, conferences, corporate events, congresses and incentives. Schloss Leopoldskron seems predestined to serve as a place for spiritual inspiration. You can practically feel the energy of legions of forward thinkers, peace makers, business greats and humanists who have come together and conferred in these energizing surroundings. You positively feel yourself wanting a peace treaty to be negotiated here in the near future. But besides that, they also celebrate glittering society weddings here and not long ago, for example, Karl Lagerfeld used the opulent baroque premises for the Prêt-à-Porter-Défilé Métiers d’Art 2014/15. The baroque rooms Hall in the Schloss Leopoldskron Salzburg It certainly makes an impression, this Great Hall, especially when you ponder the fact that Archbishop Firmian liked to be driven into the Hall in his coach to avoid getting wet during inclement weather… Staircase to the Marble Room or Venetian Room Striding up the staircase leading from the Great Hall, you feel exalted. Venetian Room I was nearly bowled over by the Venetian Room’s opulence. It counts among Reinhardt’s masterpieces. The Italian wall mirrors were skillfully staged with precious pieces from Reinhardt’s private Commedia dell’Arte collection. Marble Room Breakfast is served in the Marble Room with its high stuccoed ceiling and fabulous marble floor and view of Schloss Leopoldskron’s Weiher Lake. An inspirational atmosphere indeed. Close your eyes for a moment and you can easily imagine glittering ball nights in this room. Max Reinhardt’s Library The Library is my favorite place and the palace’s centerpieces as far as I’m concerned. Max Reinhardt commissioned it from a Salzburg cabinet maker in 1927/28 based on a single photograph of the original in the convent library of St. Gallen. The Max Reinhardt Suite that once was Reinhardt’s residence to this day is connected to the Library by a hidden spiral staircase. Chinese Room We can also thank Max Reinhardt’s inventive mind for the Chinese Room adjacent to the Library. Here the stage art pictures filling the walls also dating from the Max Reinhardt era blend elegantly with the remaining baroque elements. The Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron In addition to these splendid rooms, the palace contains 12 individual suites furnished with antiquities. The adjacent historical Meierhof, the palace‘s former administration building, houses 55 single and double rooms plus the front desk, lobby and the Meierhof Café. . All the Palace Suites were occupied during our visit and hence could not be viewed. You can get an enchanting look at them on the hotel website. Anyone who gets into the spirit of Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron with open eyes and senses will be inspired by the incomparable surroundings and delighted by the warm hospitality.. On the other hand, if you expect a “hotel palace” experience you are likely to be disappointed; in this regard, I like to repeat what another guest told me: “Once you understand that they are not a hotel then you will find it to be a very good hotel.” Nothing here resembles the standardized average. We overnighted in the Meierhof, in one of the “Sound of Music” theme rooms. The palace having been the setting for the 1964 Hollywood film of the same name “The Sound of Music “ they offer a few rooms that play on the theme. Meierhof Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron Salzburg Seldom have I so promptly felt an intense sense of wellbeing and welcome in a new place. The Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron’s hospitality is outstanding. The staff is superb in how it responds to the guest, is always ready to listen and always with a nice touch of good humor. I heartily recommend asking for a palace tour and absolutely recommend the bicycles – e-bikes actually – that hotel guest may ride free of charge. We spent an unforgettable, happiness-filled afternoon on the e-bike excursion to Hellbrunn’s Christmas market. Ever since that ride, we secretly dream of owning an e-bike… Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron sits on the shore of the Leopoldskroner Weiher Lake, with the Hohensalzburg fortress on one side and the Untersberg mountain on the other side. From the lake shore opposite from the palace, the local bus carries you in a few minutes into downtown Salzburg. A one-way ticket to the Salzburg central zone cost € 2.50. It takes ca. 25 Minuten to reach downtown on foot. Guests staying at Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron also have free use of a new smartfortwo electric drive vehicle.. See more pictures in my Flickr Album Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron Salzburg Warm thanks to General Manager Daniel Szelényi, Sales and Marketing Manager Karin Schiller and Walter und Katja for the unforgettable experience. Thanks also to you, Vroni, my cool traveling companion and blogger friend, for the terrific photography help, your company, and my new profile picture. I would love to come back, maybe for Shakespeare in the Park, or to write stories in the Library, take a walk around the lake, to partake of the cozy atmosphere at breakfast in the Marble Room, charge up my energy levels and to internalize this unique patch of ground. An acquaintance went ice skating on the frozen lake, which is also a really marvelous idea… ## Traditional paper cutting – is a revival happening? Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/traditional-paper-cutting-gstaad During our “Gstaad Tour” the other week, we came across “very traditional” looking paper cuttings by Gstaad’s own “paper cutter” Beatrice Straubhaar. I’d always thought that paper cuttings were a bit yesteryear. That is, until Beatrice asked me if I wouldn’t mind taking a “hurry up” picture of the Beyer Watches & Jewelry store’s display window in Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse with my smartphone and sending it to her. Well, I did, but not before I almost had my socks knocked off! Right there, on Bahnhofstrasse! Painting by Herbert Buchs in the 16 Art Bar Restaurant in SaanenI’m known to be more partial to linear or abstract art, for instance like that in the 16 Art Bar Restaurant by Saanen‘s Herbert Buchs, the painter. So it was that I paid no particular attention to the paper cuttings in Gstaad: the country motifs and partially rounded-off form vocabulary do not instantly speak to me. And if Beatrice Straubhaar had not taken a special interest in our Blogger Tour it’s possible her name would not have stayed with me like it did. I took shots of a few paper cuttings, more than anything for the sake of covering all the bases. I supposed it to be part of the Gstaad scene. After all, there has to be some local color. That’s fine. It’s very nice. Now we’ve seen it. Alpenrose Chalet Hotel in Schönried Papercuttings by Beatrice Straubhaar It was a few days after our return to Zurich when Beatrice asked me to kindly send her that quick smartphone photo of the Beyer Watches & Jewelry store’s display windows on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. She said something about them having been done with paper cuttings. Huh? Say what? they’re displaying watches and jewelry on the intricate paper cuttings? That works well? And it works for a display window on Zurich’s ritzy Bahnhofstrasse? Wait until I see it? No problem, the Beyer jewelry store is practically on the way home from work. The smartphone camera is always along and ready. Up and at ‘em. And then: whoa! Even from a distance, it was dazzling. It stopped me in my tracks. It looks like a million dollars! Beatrice had reinterpreted the traditional form vocabulary and, in collaboration with the Hauser & Partner, an ad agency specializing in three-dimensional communication, she had conceived a thoroughly modern looking display. It made me a fan! Paper cutting decoration in the Beyer display window on Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich. Beyer watches & jewelry before paper cutting backdrop by Beatrice Straubhaar I‘m so impressed that I’m curious now! So I just had to ask Beatrice some questions: Walter Schärer: Beatrice, how did the collaboration with Beyer come about? Beatrice Straubhaar: The contact and the commission came my way through the firm of Hauser & Partner there in Dübendorf. This is our third successful collaboration to date. Walter: How did you get from the rather traditional forms to the large format surfaces? Beatrice: Since the contact and commission happened on short notice, there was not enough time to create special paper cuttings. The motifs all evolved from already-existing winter motifs. Since I’m able to scan and digitize most paper cuttings with a high resolution, there was no problem coming up with suitable motifs. The files were transmitted and processed by Hauser & Partner – vectorized, enlarged, and then cut out. Walter: Your studio in Lauenen outside Gstaad is heavily booked. Who are your customers? Beatrice: Yes, Walter, you’re right! It’s really going very well and the waiting list in any event is not getting shorter. I have customers all over the place. Many are located here in Saanenland, who make presents of my paper cuttings to themselves or others. I also have many customers who are apartment and chalet owners in Saanenland, also tourists that take paper cuttings home as souvenirs. I have customers in Canada, America, Australia, Norway… all over the world, in fact. ;-) Walter: What do the customers commission? Do they give you a subject or do you trust your intuition? Beatrice: Of course, customers who order something from me can tell me what they want. Sometimes, these are special subjects like houses from photos, personalized motifs having to do with profession and hobbies, family, children, grandchildren, and many more. The most popular motifs, luckily, are still the traditional paper cuttings with a pretty Saanenland chalet or Alpine hut, of cows, goats, chamois, deer and ibex, marmots, etc. These motifs are best sellers in my studio, too, to the extent that I have something “in stock”… Walter: Currently there is a paper cut exhibition in the Zurich State Museum. Tell me more. Beatrice: Yes, the exhibition at the State Museum is wonderful. It’s the 8th Swiss Paper Cutting Exhibition organized by the Friends of Paper Cuttings. After Schwyz and Chateau Prangins, the exhibition was extended again and so will be shown next in a third museum. About two years earlier, I unfortunately had problems with my hands for a time and had to pass up the call for the exhibition. But after two operations I’m now able to cut intensively and free of pain. Walter: Are we in the midst of a paper cutting revival? Beatrice: To me it doesn’t seem like a revival! I did my first paper cutting 30 years ago and, especially here in Saaneland, the paper cutting is everywhere. There is hardly a farm house or chalet in the region that doesn’t have a paper cutting hanging in it either by an earlier or contemporary paper cutting artist. It’s simply part of the tradition and a very popular present for weddings, birthdays, births, retirements and anniversaries. Many hotels have paper cuttings hanging in them. Over the last few years, this use has really grown and that’s why today you get, for example, a picture of a stage set, hotel room and hotel bed, why, even a carpet based on one of my paper cuttings. I was on a few TV shows already, have been mentioned in books and magazines and a tour operator published his travel magazine with one of my paper cuttings as cover. A big honor for me at the moment is the brochure for the Gstaad Tennis Tournament. For this year’s 100th Tournament anniversary I was able to furnish the paper cutting that became the magazine’s front cover. Companies have discovered the paper cutting for advertising and use the motifs as customer gifts and giveaways. Maybe that’s why it feels like a revival! But unfortunately the copyright violations have increased along with the increased uses; I’m fighting them every way I can. It’s not by chance that my motto for life is: We all come into this world as originals, but most of us leave it as copies! “ Gstaad DVD cover art; paper cutting by Beatrice Straubhaar Globetrotter Travel Magazine100 Years Gstaad Tennis Tournament Hah, a pithy last word! More information on Beatrice Straubhaar and her paper cutting art can be found on her web site scherischnitt.ch The Exhibition at the State Museum in Zurich will run from January 9th through April 19th. Walter Schärer at the paper cutting exhibition at the State Museum in Zurich ## Hotel Bernerhof Gstaad – the “Hiking Hotel” Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-bernerhof-gstaad-hiking-hotel In the heart of Gstaad’s pedestrian mall stands the majestic Bernerhof, ready to welcome worn-out hikers to a confidently stylish abode. A number of rooms having been newly renovated, we had a look. We recently spent time in Gstaad in connection with the Blogger Events put on by Gstaad Saanenland Tourism. For the welcome lunch, we met the other bloggers and the organizers, Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs, in the fine Rialto restaurant, also located in the pedestrian zone. Afterwards, we seized the moment to pay a flying visit to the Hotel Bernerhof. To committed hikers in any event, the hotel is known as the “hiking hotel.” Be that as it may, innkeeper Thomas Freist is all over the social networks as “@Wanderhotelier (English: hiking hotelman)” and totally lives up to his moniker: he even likes to accompany guest personally on hikes and bring the spectacular Bernese Highlands terrain to life for them. Because of the good weather prevailing while we were there, we missed out on finding the host at home. It was our fault, since we really had not let him know we were coming at this particular time. Be that as it may, instead we prevailed on Mr. Stutz, another young Bernese highlander, to show us the guest rooms. He did a great job! If you did not already stray into the hotel through one of its restaurants – I’ll get to the culinary offerings shortly – on entering by the lobby you’ll be welcomed by a modern chandelier and warm colors. Lobby table with large chandelier That already looks promising and raises expectations… “Wispile” hotel room Bathroom in the Wispile hotel room As is the practice in many hotels, the Bernerhof also continually renovates different areas. So we saw quite a variety of room types, ranging from “classic” family rooms through different suites all the way to the ascetically modern “Wispile” rooms: we really fell for their rustic floors of oak planks and the restrained design vocabulary! A large window lets you see from the bath into the room. As desired, by simply drawing the curtain you don’t need to exercise this option. Rustic-ascetic “Wispile” hotel room Marvel at more and better photos by a professional, Marco Mostosi alias Mamo… All right, in all fairness, it needs to be said that he had all day to do his shoot, while yours truly took pictures doing dive rolls hustling after young Stutz. But enough of the excuses, more attractive subjects await us on the first floor. The Bernerhof Restaurants How big a place the Bernerhof actually is, impresses itself during a walk through the many restaurants: In the Stafel and La Gare you can feast on genuine traditional down-home fare from the Gstaad region, let’s say a thick Saanenland fondue or appetizing Swiss hash browns Highlands style. But the Cordon Bleus are said to be of legendary goodness and size, with 13 Gault Millau points yet… Traditional Swiss Restaurant Stafel Blun-Chi: Gstaad’s only Chinese restaurantIn Blun-Chi on the other hand, you are eating in Gstaad’s only Chinese restaurant. Also not bad! And not to be confused with Megu. That would be Japanese cuisine and offers itself a few meters farther up in the Alpina Gstaad (to our review). However, we enjoyed ourselves the most in Basta by Dalsass: South Tyrolean star chef Martin Dalsass lets one of his best troopers, the Italian Loris Meot, dish out Italian food with 15 Gault Millau points. Just like by our dear neighbors, at Basta you get your pasta not without first being served a few full-flavored olives and their focaccia. And it all happens in elegant designer restaurant… Bravo, guys! Bravi, Ragazzi! Lamps in Basta by Dalsass Designer bar “Basta by Dalsass Rebello wine and focaccia Olive gnocchi and Gambas We were ecstatic and Schweizer Illustrierte (Swiss illustrated weekly magazine) liked it too. And they should know! Last but not least, in the the smoking lounge, it’s not just the drinks that delight, but there is even an LP player (?!). Bar in the smoking lounge Spacious smoking lounge Honest to goodness, an LP player?Anyone still know what that is? A genuine “hiking hotel” And the ski room demonstrates point-blank that hiking hotelman Thomas Frei is serious about hiking: In the summer, here is where the trekking poles wait for enterprising hikers, while the snowshoes for their part are waiting for the next season. Trekking poles in the ski room Snowshoes in the ski room Anyone in a hurry to to get prices and availabilities, can find the relevant hot info here! Sincere thanks to Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs of Gstaad Saaneland Tourism for organizing the awesome Travel Blogger Event! ## Wellness- & Spa-Hotel Ermitage – Panoramic lobby as guest magnet Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-ermitage-schoenried During the Travel Blogger Events arranged by Gstaad Saanenland Tourism, we stopped in the Wellness- & Spa-Hotel Ermitage in Schönried for a coffee and cake break. We noted to our surprise that here once again we had a hotel whose website doesn’t tell the whole story. Frankly, we were quite astonished to see how good the hotel looked “in reality.” Driveway and lobby entrance I don’t wish in any way to step on the hotelman’s or the hotel photographer’s toes, especially knowing from Vieux Manoir in Murten (more here about the Harley Tour back then) the high standards that hotel CEO Daniel Ziegler sets, but going just by the website we would not have booked the Ermitage. Being there is everything, as they say; it all looks so much friendlier, airier, more colorful and entirely more attractive… Right away after stepping through the hotel’s front door, you find yourself entranced by the panoramic lobby soaring two stories high. The colors of the wingback chairs, of the cushions and even of the paneling look much livelier than promised by the website! The light-flooded room is very well frequented, especially since the torte and cake buffet is set up directly adjacent for hotel guest to indulge in. The warm light of the floor luminaires and the friendly staff help to make this the heart of the hotel. Let it be mentioned that right past the cake buffet you will spot the “One Million Stars” piano bar. Here Swarovski crystals sparkle to outdo each other and help to set a fittingly starry eyed mood – if one has not yet been conjured up by a Prosecco or Champagne in the visitor so inclined. Panoramic lobby and hotel entrance Floor luminaire in the panoramic lobby Cake and torte buffet for hotel guests Piano Bar “One Million Stars” with Swarovski-crystals We had such a good time in the panorama lobby, talking shop over latte and cake with our blogger colleagues Sandra Denier of baerner-meitschi.ch and Markus Maurer aka @Kusito of reisenund.ch that we nearly missed the evening meal… Senior Suite “Saane” We ourselves did not stay at the Ermitage; instead, we were just around the next bend in the road at the Hotel Alpenrose. However, Kusito kindly gave us a tour of his suite, while Sandra thoroughly checked out the spa. And yes, you practically do need a tour guide for a Senior Suite: the lodging is vast and furnished with all sorts of amenities like walk-in closet, whirlpool, or fireplace, and, of course, – it goes without saying – a decorative living area and the requisite hotel bed. Also, no need to grope for the light switch should you have to get up during the night; motion sensors and tiny light diodes at the foot of the wall will discreetly light up the way to the bathroom. Kusito was impressed! Senior Suite “Saane” Armchair with stylish pillow Decorative floor lamp Atmospheric living area with fireplace The Senior Suite is among the newly-renovated rooms. We were informed that not all rooms meet this standard. When booking, remember to check the room type. Find prices and availabilities here . Sincere thanks to Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs of Gstaad Saaneland Tourism for organizing the awesome Travel Blogger Event! ## Switzerland’s Glacier 3000 and Peak Walk by Tissot Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/glacier-3000-peak-walk-tissot Late October 2014 saw the opening of the spectacular “Peak Walk by Tissot” at the very summit of “Glacier 3000”: a 107 Meter long suspension bridge connects the mountain station with the Scex Rouge’s summit at 3,000 meters above sea level… From Col du Pillon, it’s an easy ride by giant aerial tram to the mountain station. On the way, the close-in rock faces and view of the Saanenland already give a tantalizing foretaste of what soon awaits you at the summit. Scex Rouge aerial tramway at Glacier 3000 Swiss Alpine Club‘s Les Diablerets Hut Down into the valley from Glacier 3000 The Glacier 3000 ski area (it is a hiking area to boot) alone is very impressive, but it comes with a stunning panorama presented by Oldenhorn, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and 20 more 4000-er peaks! And it is even more so by wind and weather. But now, since the end of October 2014, they “dotted the i” with the “Peak Walk by Tissot”: From the Glacier 3000 mountain station, designed by Swiss star architect Mario Botta, you first walk across a short bridge and then up a glassed-in staircase to the suspension bridge. Given said wind and weather, you will appreciate the shelter of the glass covered passage as a chance to check your gear and pull your cap on tighter. Then breathe deeply – at 2,990 m.a.s.l., the air is indeed a little thinner – and up you go the last few steps to a breath-taking adventure… First suspension bridge between two mountain summits The suspension bridge is 80 cm wide, 107 meters long and climbs a total of 7 meters as you make your way across to the summit of Scex Rouge with its second observation deck. The bridge is very solidly anchored and only wiggles a tad. Still, people in our group prone to vertigo were relieved to get to the far side without a hitch and an excuse to happily hug Anita, our guide. ;-) Since the handhold at 1.2 meters is relatively high, you feel safe at all times, although admittedly the wind did cause us to falter now and then! But the bridge was built for safe use at wind speeds up to 200 km/h. No doubt the aerial tram would stop running well before that point… You get imposing views from both sides of the suspension bridge, with the Saanenland and the Jura mountains spread out on one side and the glacier and Bernese Highland including the Valais on the other. The Matterhorn seen from this spot presents its “back,” rather than the typical “Zermatt” aspect. An unsolicited comment regarding our video: Yes, the microphone had the windsock mounted on it! Mountain restaurant “Botta 3000” After the descent, you warm up to advantage in the Botta 3000 Restaurant over a raclette and white wine. Or tea, of course, if so inclined. Non-skiers can take an easy walk on the glacier and revel in the spectacular view. In our case, we decided it was too cold and windy that day and so we ordered another round of the white… Mountain station designed by Mario Botta with Oldenhorn in the background The way up to the “Peak Walk by Tissot” Suspension bridge “Peak Walk by Tissot” on Scex Rouge Bundled up good and snug against the wind: Katja & Walter Glacier 3000 ski area and Matterhorn at upper right Oldenhorn and Glacier 3000 ski area Travel blogger Martin Hoch of Globesession.com hiding the Oldenhorn The view from Mountain Restaurant Botta 3000 Raclette served at Mountain Restaurant Botta 3000 Last but not least, here is “The Making of the Peak Walk Suspension Bridge” Sincere thanks to Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs of Gstaad Saanenland Tourism for inviting us to Gstaad and on the “hot ride” up to Glacier 3000 ;-) ## Hotel Spitzhorn – the little yet “stellar” pearl of Saanenland Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-spitzhorn-saanenland Just before we set out on our blogger trip to Gstaad, the “Sonntags Zeitung” (a Swiss sunday paper) in its list of best winter hotels ranked the Spitzhorn as tops in the three-star category. Reason enough for us to scope out the hotel ourselves. Already on entering the lobby of the 3* superior chalet hotel Spitzhorn, newly opened in 2013, a little “wow” hushes across our lips. The lobby is bright, and comfortable sofas and the fireplace instantly create a feeling of cozy hospitality. Lounge area with fireplace in the light-flooded lobby Clever Christmas card holder We also like the tasteful furnishings, clearly chosen with much attention to detail – and a wink. Or else how did that little ibex get on up there on the wooden beam? Little ibex watching over the bar… We are a 3*** Superior Hotel with 4**** infrastructure in a 5***** setting: that makes a grand total of 12 stars! With a broad grin, that is how congenial Dutch host Michel Wichman describes “his” hotel, as he proudly shows us around the house and lets us check out his realm. Michel Wichman shows me the magnificent view from the smoking lounge Throughout the hotel there is a great deal of wood, stone, and warm color hues, letting the sense of homey wellbeing run like a golden thread through our visit. Management wants its guests to experience “the lightness of being” and has made it the hotel’s credo. And we indeed felt very much en light ened as we stepped through our brief, delightful walkabout. This hotel truly is a little pearl. Not showy, not overloaded – instead it presents itself to guests with style, authenticity and understated luxury. Hotel rooms and features The 50 rooms are also very cozy, with much wood throughout and decorated in warm color hues. Family room with loft The house sits on the sun terrace of Saanen. No wonder then that practically all the rooms and the restaurant, too, are flooded with sunlight. During the summer, guests naturally enjoy the sun on their room’s balcony or on the hotel’s terrace with its splendid views of Gstaad and mountains with the Spitzhorn. View of the Spitzhorn We could easily see that children are very welcome here and not just because of the playroom furnished especially for them or the garden play area… Hotel bar with sweets The host thinks of returning guests as his “regulars” after just one year, and that is why each room comes with an individual, bound journal that the guest can update with every new visit. Hotel guest journal The hotel has a small but fine wellness world, with indoor pool, sun terrace, sauna, steam bath, Kneipp pool, tropical shower, rest area and gym offering the full range of wellness amenities. What more could you want? In any event, whether it’s a winter of skiing or a summer spent hiking, this is the ideal place for a perfect vacation. Wellness area We can easily see why the Wichmans keep turning their guests into “regulars.” They accomplish it in highly personalized fashion with their presence and with so much sincerity and a light touch that you gladly become a “repeat offender.” ;-) Really, the three stars are a colossal understatement. It shouldn’t be hard at all for them to FAR exceed the expectations of their guests. :-) Whatever will be, will be, and so we wish the host couple Ilse and Michel Wichmann continued great success! And many thanks to Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs of Gstaad Saaneland Tourism for organizing this travel blogger event so rich in impressions! Prices and availability can be found here. ## Art and Cuisine at Saanen’s 16 Art Bar Restaurant Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/16-art-bar-restaurant-saanen For the finale of Gstaad’s three-day Travel Blogger Events, they really knocked one out of the park. We had a chance to partake of a jewel of a restaurant well off the beaten path in Saanen’s historic village center. What we didn’t know beforehand: behind it was the Buchs restaurateur and catering family, renowned for how adept they are behind their pans… Walk just a few steps from the Saanen train station, and you’ll stand in front of the16 Art Bar Restaurant in the historic village center’s quaintly picturesque “Mittelgässli”. The traditional wooden chalets leaning against each other along the narrow lane will have you cooing “Oh, my,” so picture-perfect is the look. There, set back in a sunny courtyard, the equally picture-perfect 16 Art Bar Restaurant beckons to us. Even from a good distance away, seeing box windows filled with corks, the connoisseur will realize that something must be going down here, something very special must be up… And, indeed, venturing a look inside, you will not only see wooden tables with white tablecloths, but works of art ranging from paintings and sculptures to bells that also seem to be part of the inventory. Off to the side of the courtyard is the entrance to the bar. Ducking down a few steps, you enter something that might have been a cellar. Here there are more eye-catching artworks behind the bar and tables. It’s time now to quit being just a Nosy Nelly pressed up against the windowpane and instead bug the bustling restaurateur Simon Buchs for the background. And there you have it; his father, Herbert Buchs, is the one responsible for the many eye-pleasing artworks. Also, the collection of cow accessories is explained by the chalet-restaurant occupying what was once a bell foundry. No wonder then that Nik and Simon Buchs named their catering business “Art & Food”… Upstairs, you encounter more lucky finds, such as designer lamps made of wood and large abstract compositions by Herbert Buchs. They also made space here for a designer kitchen during the renovation. Again, little wonder: even father Buchs has his publican’s license. It’s really impressive, in every way… Directly upon leaving the bar, you stroll past a romantic seating corner into the captivating restaurant. Here, too, artistic decoration helps create an extraordinary ambiance that instantly will set your mood to “good” on the way to “couldn’t be better.” Restaurateurs and caterers Nik and Simon Buchs There were ten of us travel bloggers, on the road for the above mentioned Travel Blogger Events, now taking our places at one of the large tables, warmly tended to by landlord Simon Buchs, experienced restaurateur by trade and Saanen native. Previously, for eight years, together with his brother Nik he had successfully operated a restaurant named Refuge l’Espace in a converted container on the glacier at 3,000 meters above sea level. In all kinds of weather, guests could wander to the foot of the glacier, to just before where the rock face drops away spectacularly into the valley. The prominent guests from Gstaad showed their appreciation for the adventure with numerous endorsements and pictures that circled the globe. Chest pushed out, eyes half-closed and a swashbuckler’s smile playing in the corners of his mouth, Simon Buchs tells us how, when riding their “Schneetöff” (English: snowmobile) into the teeth of a storm, they would at times be unable to find the container restaurant and be forced to head back to the Scex Rouge mountain station. No doubt a capital idea, given the steep drop off the cliff up ahead… Thanks to their Wasserngrat Restaurant the brothers to this day still have a connection with a kitchen range high up in the Alps, although this one is located 1,000 meters lower than before. Anyway, that’s another story. Let’s head back to the valley, to Saanen’s 16. Thai-style rice “Funny,” but we were served a Thai dish, since our traveling blogger group was thought to be a Chinese tour group – at least during the reservation process. When we showed up, the surprise over our Western appearance and our fluency in Bernese German was fairly big and by then too late to make a difference. Since we were a well-traveled bunch and, first of all, very flexible, and, secondly, always interested in everything, we were happy to settle for the culinary artistry of Tan, the female Thai cook in the Saanen Boucherie’s (English: Butcher Shop) takeout kitchen. Here is our review of the aperitif party in that “grocery store” recently opened by the brothers a 100 meters farther up in the village. What made it exciting, of course, was that we were expected to be Chinese and accordingly, the spiciness, to put it mildly, was off the chart – for us Westerners. We discreetly eyed, but prudently left untouched, the chili sauces generously offered on the side. But even as we wiped away our sweat and tears from red faces, we did still manage to nod to each other appreciatively: it all tasted out of this world! An Amigne de Vétroz by Serge Roh with just a hint of sweetness helped put out the fire. This Valois white was the perfect match and will live in memory as a salutary grace note… Picturesque small alley in Saanen Place setting in the 16 Art Bar Restaurant Restaurant tables and wall art in the 16 Art Bar Restaurant Herbert Buchs, the father, created the art work. Hanging sculptures and cow bells in back of the bar Address: 16 Art Bar Restaurant Mittelgässli 16 CH-3792 Saanen Tel. +41 33 748 16 16 To the Website with “normal” menus. Hours of operation: Open daily from 5 p.m. Dark Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Big thanks to restaurateur Simon Buchs and his team for the generous invitation! And sincere thanks to Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs of Gstaad Saaneland Tourism for organizing these Travel Blogger Events so rich in impressions! ## Meat that’s out of this world: Boucherie Thai Takeout & Wine in Saanen Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/boucherie-thai-takeout-wine-saanen What is it that just landed in the village of Saanen? Did it come from another planet? From Italy? Thailand? From planet Takeout maybe? Far out? You bet! It’s the Boucherie (English: Butcher Shop), which just happens to be the latest (g)astronomical project launched here by those perpetual-motion brothers, Simon and Nik Buchs. On December 6, 2014, in the renovated historic Bircher House in Saanen’s pedestrian shopping zone, a grocery store of another kind opened its doors: besides lots of cheeses and meat (Boucherie!) you can stock up here on select vintages like the Cornarea Roero Arneis or a Serge Roh with just a hint of sweetness… You should really let Serge accompany you when you go for the Boucherie’s third discipline: authentically spicy Thai food. Sweet Serge is the perfect match for it! How do we know this? Because the kitchen of the 16 Art Bar Restaurant somehow had gotten notice they would be cooking for a Chinese tour group instead of what turned out to be our group of ten travel bloggers… Does that mean we should dig deep into little bowls of chilies and other hot stuff? Here is our corresponding spicy heat report from the 16 Art Bar Restaurant, another of the artful Buchs foodie family’s art and food projects, always with artistic support from father Herbert Buchs. However spicy hot you like them, the tasty Thai dishes prepared by distaff Thai cook Tan are also available for takeout. It just takes a phone call, you put in the order and, before picking up the “hot merchandise,” you may want to retire to the Mediterranean ambiance of this new food paradise for an aperitif… Just one more attraction in the Bernese Highlands! On the occasion of said visit by the travel bloggers, master mind Simon Buchs and manager Jérôme Lucas went all out and in short order turned half the store, which meanwhile was serving other customers, into a first class aperitif bar. There was most certainly no shortage of photo ops for the photo-obsessed blogger mob. And after everything was captured on a chip, we savored our photo subjects of cheese, ham, salami, dried meat and olives, topped off with that very same Cornarea Roero Arneis. Whoa, can blogging really get any better than this? Hope you, too, have fun shopping and indulging ;-) Address: Dorfstrasse 70 CH-3792 Saanen Tel. +41 33 748 16 18 Open daily from 10:30 until 14:00 and from 17:00 until 21:30. Except Tuesday, when it’s closed. The Boucherie’s Bircher House chalet in the center of Saanen Village Jérôme Lucas (on the left) and Simon Buchs setting up an aperitif party for the bloggers Tasty aperitif in the Boucherie Aperitif sauces Cheese is also on offer at the Boucherie A big thank you to restaurateur Simon Buchs and his team for the generous invitation! And warm thanks also to Kerstin Sonnekalb and Antje Buchs of Gstaad Saaneland Tourism for organizing these Travel Blogger Events so rich in impressions! ## A jewel in wood: the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau in the Engadine Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/in-lain-hotel-cadonau-engadine Converted from an over 450-year old house in Brail, the “IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau” is a jewel of a hotel that is also the life’s work for many generations of a family whose talents have complemented each other in ideal fashion. A brief history “IN LAIN” is the brand backed by the Engadine Cadonau family. The 450-year old Engadine house, in the family for many generations, housed a small eatery in the 1960s that had to close eventually when the grandmother took ill. Grandson Dario from early on felt at home in the kitchen and even in his youth nurtured the vision of bringing the shuttered restaurant back to life A vision that became reality! Main entrance: here begins the In Lain experience No expense was spared in renovating the stately old house with great care and in fitting style until it opened in early 2011 as the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau. Not long after that it joined the exclusive “Relais & Châteaux hotel consortium“. Dario Cadonau is a Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef. From the first design sketch to the place settings, everything – planning, design, and execution – shows the flawless Cadonau family touch. Dario’s brother Marco is a carpenter and CEO of IN LAIN Wood Works, which specializes in handmade and custom interior furnishings and furniture of all kinds. The “in Lain” term incidentally comes from the Romansch and means “wooden“. That wood plays a central role in the Hotel Cadonau is therefore no coincidence… Hospitality and warmth in one The two brothers formed a symbiosis of hotel culture and wood working. The result: a marvelous boutique hotel with a great deal of wood and atmosphere. Absolutely first rate! IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau “Wood is cozy” was an advertising slogan that I often heard during my childhood as a carpenter’s daughter. Many childhood memories surfaced as I stepped inside the IN LAIN Hotel and into the unforgettable fragrance of Swiss pine. I suddenly realized that there was a great deal of truth in that advertising jingle. And cozy, natural, and welcoming is precisely the effect of the hotel atmosphere. Reception desk with artful carvings Located in the main house you will find the lobby, three restaurants, and three junior suites. Available in the new hotel annex is the fireplace lounge with bar and an additional 11 upscale suites. Lounge with bar A beautiful garden comes with favorite amenities like the bio pool sauna as well as sun terrace. Here guests can simply let the soul meander while enjoying the matchless mountain scenery. Or they can indulge in a bath in the wooden bathtub with pine scented water heated to 38° by pine logs. The ultimate in relaxation is assured! Bio-sauna and pine tub in the garden For those who like it a bit cooler, there is the bio swimming pool for doing laps. The water comes from the hotel’s own natural spring. It simply can’t get more natural (or fresher) than this… Getting away from it all in the alpine world of the Engadine Managing the hotel are Tamara and Dario Cadonau. The young, friendly pair personally hosts guests with warmth that makes you feel instantly at home. Dario und Tamara CadonauFoto © IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau But let’s be fair to their staff and add that their cordiality, too, is without equal. ;-) I mean, how could you not feel welcome here…? The rooms and suites Spacious and inviting: this is how the suites present themselves. Natural materials and the finest linen and natural fibers plus the lovingly designed furnishings create a comfortable, warm atmosphere. The spacious and light-filled Deck Suite The suites, too, bear the signature of the IN LAIN Wood Works. Besides the beautiful Swiss pine parquet floor that feels velvety soft (!) and the elegant wood furniture, you notice the many details made of wood. So, for example, the key hook naturally is made of wood, while a carving of a moon outside on the door signals when the guest does not wish to be disturbed… In the bath it is quickly apparent that a woodworker has been busy here, too: trash can, Kleenex box and the ledge for soap and shampoo – of course, everything is made of… wood! Bathroom with a view The deck affords a glorious view of the Engadine alpine scenery, which, incidentally, can also be seen from the bathtub in the capacious bathroom! Interested in a sauna, a steam shower with light therapy, a whirlpool tub and lots of elbow room? We recommend the exclusive 85 m2 SPA Suite. It is a private wellness oasis where couples can while away blissful hours undisturbed. Should you, too, want to savor the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau, you will find all the information you need right here. Fine dining at the IN LAIN IN LAIN guests can let themselves be wined and dined in three different restaurants: there is the intimate, premium Gourmet Restaurant VIVANDA in its exclusive vaulted cellar richly appointed in wood that creates a very special, sensual ambiance, not least thanks to the candlelight and softly crackling fireplace. Harmonious ambiance of the Restaurant Vivanda For fine Engadine specialties served à la carte, we recommend Restaurant La Stüvetta. And on the menu in what formerly was the Cowshed, also used on some evenings as a demonstration cheesery, you will find a large assortment of homemade fondue variations as well as native meat and fish dishes. Cozy room in La Stüvetta Even if you chose not to stay in the hotel (a regrettable lapse, of course), a visit to the IN LAIN would be worthwhile just because of this man – host and top chef Dario Cadonau. A member of «Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe en Suisse» and a Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef, he cooks at the highest level for his guests. With this holder of 15 Gault-Millau points and one Michelin star, supreme culinary feats are guaranteed! Alpine salmon: Warm Arctic char with absinthe ice cream Our stay at the IN LAIN happened to coincide with the Relais & Châteaux Gourmet Festival. We previously reported on the event on our German blog in word and image. Recreation and activities in the Engadine The authentic hamlet of Brail sits in the heart of the Engadine, at the entrance to the Swiss National Park and it is a lovely area for outings and recreational activities . The Engadine is a hiking, climbing, riding or fishing paradise. Golfers also get their money’s worth: Engadine golf courses come with a glorious 360 degree panorama. We gave the Zuoz golf course a try for the first time and were delighted by the freshly mowed meadows. Aficionados will know what we mean… 5th hole, Zuoz Golf Course Acknowledgments Warm thanks to Tamara und Dario Cadonau for the generous invitation and to the entire team for the warm hospitality! Many thanks also to Sabine Biedermann of PrimCom for coordinating our stay. ## Hotel Widder Zurich – Up for more individualized lodgings? Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-widder-zurich Zurich’s Widder Hotel offers more than individually-styled, first-rate hotel rooms in lavishly renovated Augustine-era houses. We gave it a good look: The picturesque row of townhouses on the upper Rennweg dates from the 16th century. The five-star Widder Hotel today occupies nine attached medieval residences that Zurich architect Tilla Theus restored with utmost care. The antique interior decor of the Augustine townhouses with their rich murals and stucco work was refashioned in 2012 in keeping with the Widder Hotel’s unconventional design aesthetic. James Bond would cock an eyebrow not just at the glass elevator but also the electrical outlets recessed into his desk. Before staging any eventual escape across the hot roofs of Zurich, he could amuse himself under a rain shower in the spa-like bathroom, with Q briefing him on the latest mission via the mirror-embedded TV. Furniture classics by prominent architects like Le Corbusier, Charles Eames, Frank Lloyd Wright, Alvar Aalto or Eileen Gray are skillfully juxtaposed with pieces custom designed by architect Tilla Theus. Her unornamented glass tables and bed headboards cohabit artfully with these 20th century design icons in the historic rooms of the Augustine houses. The bed as recharging station clearly received special attention. The custom designed night table lamps configured as halogen lights with makeup mirror, the remotely adjustable bed sections and mattresses with varying degrees of firmness (!) do their combined best to provide a good night’s rest… Duplex Suites To anyone tempted to pigeon-hole the Widder Hotel, a bit cavalierly perhaps, into the historical category while professing an interest in something pretend modern, let the highly modern stairwell with its glass elevator designed 20 years ago be a hint: Tilla Theus can do it all… Or, put it another way: who would have thought that one would be in Zurich’s Old Town rather than a trendy loft in New York’s Meatpacking District when lodging in the Widder penthouse suite? Or in an artist’s loft with the latest design features? Man, what a study in contrasts! The Library Anyone who, just before sitting down to a meal with a significant other, wants to get his or her act together and mentally outline how to inspire the beloved during the impending tête-à-tête had better first retreat to the picturesque Library. An appetite-stimulating Isle of Jura whisky there will be highly conducive to musing how the architect Tilla Theus managed to have the wooden ceiling raised in order to carve out a continuous space above it for connecting the different parts of the building. And just how did she manage to persuade the historic preservation authorities to let her add so many modern features to the protected structure standing where once there was a Roman draw well? Several round design elements let into the floors of the erstwhile individual buildings are subtle reminders of this historic legacy. Anyone who, after so much inspiration or individualized lodging, still makes it to the restaurant then will not mind the short walk… The hotel restaurants and bar The Widder Hotel is also a cool place to stay from a culinary standpoint: just recently opened, owing much to a butcher heritage is the Boucherie “AuGust”. Just a few days after opening, this restaurant dedicated to carnivorous joys is heavily booked. Hardly surprising, really, since the price/quality ratio rises to unexpectedly stratospheric heights. AuGust-Restaurant-Boucherie-Eroeffnung wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("j7j10wry2l", { videoFoam: true }); In addition, there is Café Schtund, which is accessible from the Augustinergasse, and, in summer months, the Al Fresco Lounge in the hotel’s inner courtyard. But the establishment runs to true top form in the Turmstübli Restaurant and the Widder Restaurant by Dietmar Sawyere, decorated holder of 15 Gault-Millau points. Not only do the fresh ingredients flatter the palate, but the Chef here also draws on unlimited epicurean riches. And those still ready for more can mix with the beautiful people and others in the famous Widder Bar. Just for these selfsame locals, the Widder Hotel provides an exclusive car service: Guests dining in either of the two gourmet restaurants will be picked up at home in Zurich and immediate vicinity and safely conveyed back home afterwards. Fittingly, the ride is in a Maserati Quattroporte… It’s not quite James Bond, but then it is a slightly more comfortable ride than in his very latest Aston Martin flounder. Rates and availability Check out rates and availability here. Sure, it’s more fun when you can easily shake the necessary change loose. But, go ahead, spoil yourself just this once… ## A world first: Wellness Hostel in Saas-Fee Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/wellness-hostel-saas-fee In September 2014, the first Wellness YH in Saas-Fee celebrated its grand opening. Roughly a month after season start, we stayed at the new wellnessHostel. Here is our report: It is an interesting concept: affordable overnight stays featuring luxurious wellness set among Alpine fourthousander peaks. The Wellness Hostel, started by Swiss Youth Hostels and the town of Saas-Fe, is oriented toward vigorous guests interested in a soothing end to a day spent in the mountains. The wellnessHostel is located right next to the Saas-Fee bus terminal The rooms are plain and functional but not uncomfortably furnished. All room categories come with generous storage space for sports equipment and the like. The double and quad rooms all come with private bathrooms. Guests staying in the rooms sleeping six have use of a shared bathroom located on their floor. Double room with village view Meals In Bistro4000, the hostel’s modern lounge, they serve lassis, doughnuts and Alpine tapas. In the evenings, a comfy fire crackles in the fireplace to create a homey atmosphere. This is where people meet for a before-dinner libation or a beer to launch into the après ski socializing. The atmospheric Bistro4000 The breakfast buffet is set up in the lounge area. We had to experience on our own person that they unfortunately only serve breakfast until 9:45 a.m. even on weekends (he who can’t read, starves). You can also sign up ahead of time for lunch and evening meals for a small additional charge, or have them pack you lunch for a day spent on the slopes. The lounge area in the Saas-Fee Rather eat elsewhere? You’ll find plenty of possibilities in the village. We highly recommend the fondue menu in the Vieux Chalet Restaurant, just a few steps from the hostel. Sauna, steam bath, and glacier balcony But now let’s turn to the wellness YH‘s centerpiece: Aqua Allalin. That’s what they named the wellness area, which is open to all Saas-Fee guests as well as local folks. They really pulled out all the stops for this. Especially impressive is the view from the two (bio) saunas and the relaxation room. After having a sauna, soaking in the hot tub, or visiting the steam bath you can take a foot bath to cool down again. If you’re really hard-core (like us, of course) there’s also a glacier balcony. Standing barefoot on pebbles, enjoying a view of the Dom, Switzerland’s highest mountain, we felt like newborns. In addition to the wellness area, Aqua Allalin also sports a 25-Meter pool, a great water slide for young and old and a fitness room with state of the art equipment. But even that’s not all they offer: You can sign up for individual fitness training to give it all up and then let yourself be revived with a massage (we skipped the first part and went straight to the hot stone massage.) Images of Saas-Fee Our thanks to Patricia Mariani of PrimCom and the Swiss Youth Hostels for the invitation to Saas-Fee! You can check rates and availability here. ## A city trip to Brussels in the heart of Europe Source: https://travelmemo.com/belgium/brussels-city-trip You could say I picked Brussels, the capital of Belgium, as the starting point for my 5-day, 5-city trip by drawing a circle around it on the map with a set of dividers. From now on, I will forever associate Belgium with slippery cobblestone paving. As I exited the train station, I found all the streets around Brussels Central Station blocked. The annual marathon was in full press, and I almost missed my hotel’s entrance because I had to be hellishly careful not to slip and fall down in my leather-soled shoes while dragging the suitcase behind me and eyeing the running horde. That said, I felt very much at home in Belgium’s capital right from the get go. My memories of Brussels dated back at least 20 years, and I was pleased to see that the city had shed its former grunginess. Still remaining is the deep fry cloud that hangs over the whole city. The “fragrance” is everywhere. When you arrive by train in Brussels Central Station, expect to be greeted by the intense sweet/waffles variety… Brussels downtown My exploration started on a Sunday afternoon while the marathon runners were still coursing through the city. An easy stroll took me to the Grande Place in the heart of the quaint Old Town. Walking the narrow streets, I discovered house fronts decorated with gold paint and shop windows full of chocolate, and rows of gabled houses with fascinating facades, scrollwork, and wonderfully weathered walls. Dispensing with any plan, I simply let my feet take me where they wanted. A sign in a narrow side street caught my attention, and I was rewarded with an impromptu visit to the Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle (Museum of Costume and Lace). I entered the world of the glamorous 1930s, journeyed through a time warp of textiles and fantastic fashions and was fascinated to see how they make the delicate Brussels lace. Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle (Museum of Costume and Lace) | Rue de la Violette 12 | museeducostumeetdeladentelle.be Beguiled, I left the museum, sauntered through more streets and under the glass cupola roof of the Galerie Royale St. Hubert. Randomly, I made notes of this or that chocolate address before taking the metro to Louisa. This boulevard is renowned as an exclusive shopping street and yes, you feel somehow as if you are on the Champs Elysee in Paris. Name any of the brands that have cachet, and you’ll find them all lined up here. Since it was Sunday though, I didn’t really feel like shopping. Instead, I was drawn to Place Poelaert with its fabulous view over the city‘s roofs. I regret not taking the tram for my return trip via Rue Royale to the Place du Palais. Only later did I learn that this would have made for one eye-pleasing ride. I made Brussels my home base for two days. Antwerp was to be the next day‘s stop on my itinerary followed by Ghent a day later. A recommended hotel I stayed in the 9HOTEL CENTRAL close by the Brussels Central Station. This is the perfect city hotel with an inviting lobby and breakfast room, which also doubles as an ideal place for working in the evening. Free WLAN is ubiquitous in the house. I was positively floored that the staff members pictured on the website actually do stand behind the reception desk. This hotel is recommended for its generously-sized rooms and splendid views – from the 6th floor where I had my room. Thanks to the mirror wall, the room that is already large for a city hotel appears to be even larger. Incidentally, it is possible to order a flower bouquet for the room when booking the 9Hotel – for an additional €20. Though I love flowers, I stifled the impulse, since I was going to just be spending nights in the room. The location so close to the Brussels Central Station is ideal. Even for tired feet, the walk from train station to hotel is a piece of cake and happily there was an elevator to ride up to the 6th floor. Chocolate and such… Before I left Brussels three days later in direction Liège, I filled my suitcase to the very last cubic centimeter with Belgian chocolate. Mary, a small store, sugary-sweetly decorated, beckoned me invitingly and my visit there turned into special treat: the sales person welcomed me in perfect form and asked if I had heard Mary’s story. I said I hadn‘t, whereupon with an elegant sweep of his hand he pointed to the “Supplier to the Royal Court” emblem on the wall and regaled me with the factory’s history. The chocolate is exceptional, in the classic style; testing it, we noted no taste explosions. Mary | 28, Rue du Lombard | or Galeries St-Hubert. The second address that I can recommend without hesitation is ELISABETH. Not only are the window displays sinfully opulent, the chocolate is outstanding. Truly handmade, the packaging is also very beautifully done. Expect to experience extraordinary treats here. Elisabeth Chocolatier | Rue au beurre 43 Also, under no circumstances skip a visit to Maison Dandoy, the biscuit maker famous for sable biscuits and spiced cookies. Maison DANDOY | Rue au Beurre 31 The Brussels Card Shopping and exploring downtown on foot is a perfectly fine way to go. However, should you want to stay a while longer in Brussels and see more, ride the metro, tram, and bus with the BRUSSELS CARD. The card, available in 24, 48, or 72 hour versions, also offers discounts on museum admissions. It makes sense if you are planning on being in Brussels for more than two days; any less, and it is difficult to reap all of the card‘s benefits. You can also get the card online from VISIT BRUSSELS. I especially liked the themed city walks handed out as handy folding maps by VISIT BRUSSELS. The Visit Brussels office is located at Rue du Marché aux Herbes 61. You can view more of my Brussels photos in my Brussels Flickr-Album . Google-Map with my Brussels Hotspots. Travel arrangements by Liesbet Vandebroek of VISIT FLANDERS. My thanks also go to Fiorenzo Fässler of Smarket for the support! ## A city day trip to Antwerp, where the thrill starts at the train station Source: https://travelmemo.com/belgium/antwerp-city-day-trip I have no idea when and in what connection I came across Antwerp the first time. The city had been in my dreams ever since. I imagined it as being dark, with industrial grit, warehouses, a large harbor district… I always thought it would captivate me right from the start. But just how much it did and how it did so still came as a huge surprise… The Antwerp Centraal Train Station To get ready for my 5-day, 5-city tour, I started with some visual research: on Pinterest I discovered Antwerp’s train station and reacted with a “wow!“ On arriving by the Brussels train in the station’s lower concourse, a second “wow” escaped me. They say the French have voted the train station as the most beautiful in the world. The Americans ranked it in fourth place, and the Belgians believed the French. I haven’t yet seen America’s Grand Central Station, so I also tend to believe the French. And it is not just the fin de siècle architecture that is exciting. What fascinated me was the renovation completed in the 90’s. It gave the terminal its multilevel structure, with trains coming and going on four platforms stacked one on top of the other. Mindboggling! The old railway station building opens up in all its glory on the upper levels. Antwerp’s downtown Starting from the central train station, the DE KEYSERLEI and LEYSSTRAAT avenues will take you directly to the MEIR shopping street in the bustling heart of this city. I wasted no time buying myself a pair of decent rubber-soled shoes there, because in this city they love cobblestones… Antwerp lives for avantgarde fashion. It’s not obvious right away. On the MEIR, you’ll meet the same thing you come across and would recognize anywhere in the world. Leave the main drag, however, and wander around in the vicinity of the SCHUTTERSHOFSTRAAT, and you will discover the top Belgian designers and a surprising concentration of luxury labels. The people who call this city home seem to be very prosperous. And everywhere they are building, renovating, and restoring. Museums and the cathedral Because I was traveling on a Monday, I wound up standing in front of some locked museum doors. What a bummer. I would have liked to visit the MoMu Fashion Museum and MAS Antwerp Museum aan de Stroom. Well, there’s always next time. Instead, I took a look at the four Rubens paintings in the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal (Cathedral of Our Lady), which, incidentally, is Belgium’s largest cathedral. The winding backstreets all around the Cathedral hum with tourist business. Uncounted restaurants, cafes, and small shops line the streets and lanes that lead to the historic “Grote Markt” with its magnificent guild houses dating from 16th and 17th centuries and to the splendid “Stadthuis” (Town Hall). From there, it’s just a few steps to the water, for another splendid view of the Cathedral and Old Town. This is also the place to catch a relaxing 50 minute boat ride on the River Schelde. Regrettably, time constraints kept me from taking one. (There’s always next time…) Continue along the Schelde to the Bonapartedok and you can’t miss Antwerp’s famous landmark, The Museum aan de Stroom, standing on the “Eilandje.” Behind it stretches Europe’s second largest port. Antwerp City Card and De Lijn Tickets A good idea for tired feet: buy yourself a ten-ride ticket for De Lijn (Antwerp’s public transit) at the “Grote Markt” Tourism Antwerp ticket window (or better yet when you arrive at the Central Station). That’s because the Antwerp City Card is not valid for travel on the tram, bus, and metro… unaware of this, I rode blissfully as a fare beater when I first arrived. The De Lijn tickets are good all over Flanders, by the way, and can be used in a different city, for example. The Antwerp City Card offers various discounts but it takes a stay of at least two days to reap their full benefits, in my opinion. It was too bad that the evening came so soon. The next time, I plan to Hang out in the SINT ANDRIES district or in the Kloosterstraat Ride on what has to be the most beautiful wooden escalator, at the entrance to the Sint-Annatunnel. Indulge myself at The Chocolate Line Graze my way through the innumerable restaurants Take a look inside the unique restaurant The Jane or maybe stop in for a meal. Kick back in the Cafénation and, and, and… …oh, heck, I’ll just come back. Train travel Traveling by train in Belgium is very comfortable. The trains run often so that even during rush hour they are barely full. Tickets are dispensed by machine. Just select your language and you’ll have your ticket in no time. Pay by cash or credit card. For timetable information, I downloaded the app from NMBS/SNCB which gave me a perfect handle on all possible train connections. Unfortunately, you can only pay by mobile ticket if you have a Belgian wireless subscription. Anyone staying longer in Belgium and expecting to take the train often, by all means, give the rail pass and what it offers a closer look. Oh, right, the deep-fry cloud hanging over Antwerp comes from the potatoes. The smell of “Belgian fries” is in the air everywhere. Naturally, I had to try them. Reputedly they’re best at Fritkot Max with a quarter of the “normal” portion of mayonnaise – double fried the way Belgian fries should be. Very good! You can see more of my photos in my Antwerp Flickr-Album Google -Map with my Antwerp Hotspots Travel arrangement courtesy of VISIT FLANDERS. Many thanks to Susanne Gosch for the insider tips; thanks also to Fiorenzo Fässler of Smarket for the support! ## How they pamper you on SWISS Airlines long-haul flights Source: https://travelmemo.com/singapore/swiss-airlines-zurich-singapore Justine Tyerman is reluctant to disembark after being pampered on a Swiss International Air Lines long-haul flight . . . Flight LX178 Zurich – Singapore The sweetest words you will ever hear before a 13-hour flight . . . “Madam,” in that sexy European voice, “you have been upgraded to business class.” I utter ‘woohoo’ under my breath and sidle surreptitiously to seat 10D, praying a Zurich businessman bound for Singapore does not arrive at the gate late for his flight and swoop in on my precious seat. Flight attendant Silvia Bodmer beams at me and offers me a choice of three wines on a silver platter, OK, it’s a tray. I choose the bubbly – it suits my mood. She takes my jacket and hangs it away somewhere safe. My new best friend . . . Swiss International Air Lines flight attendant Silvia Bodmer I observe the cabin crew on the Swiss International Air Lines flight – they are trim, elegant women in their 40s and 50s, true professionals, smartly attired in suits and waistcoats, no trolley-dollies here. I settle back on the huge A340-300, and experiment with the functions on my seat console – lumber support, lower back massage, 101 different positions of legs, back and head. I’m a high-altitude geography nut so I love a window seat. I’m mid-ships on this flight, sans view, but it’s a night flight so I have no complaints. As we taxi and take off smoothly and on time, of course – this is a Swiss International Air Lines plane departing from a Swiss Airport so everything is super-efficient – I investigate my useful business class pack with socks, eye mask, toothbrush/paste, ear plugs and toiletries. Then the impressive business class menu arrives. “What would Madam care to order?” asks sweet Silvia. “Perhaps the venison carpaccio followed by Swiss corn-fed chicken with cherry chutney, white polenta and runner beans designed by our guest chef Siegfried Rossal of the Hotel Seerose in Aargau?” “Yes, that will do nicely, thank you.” Entree . . . venison carpaccio, Swiss cheese and a fresh salad with dates and orange I have a conversation with the charming German suited one beside me – he wants to know about New Zealand’s Great Walks and I quiz him about Angela Merkel . . . The discussion traverses professional, political, personal, aspirational . . . it’s amazing what territory two strangers can cover at such heady heights. Here comes the lovely Silvia with dinner and more drinks. Main course . . . Swiss corn-fed chicken with cherry chutney, white polenta and runner beans, and a generous glass of French champagne Another bubbly for Mrs Tyerman? She knows my name. “A glass of award-winning French Duval-Leroy-Vertus from Champagne peut-être?” It’s far too late for bubbles but I’ve lost all track of time as I am plied with fine cuisine and exceptional personal service. An hour later: “Would Mrs Tyerman like another glass of that French champagne with the gingerbread panna cotta?” Dessert . . . a gingerbread panna cotta with espresso cream Nein danke, you will have to carry me off the plane if I do. I gather that is not part of the service provided. But the Swiss chocolates are just too tempting to resist – two or three of them leap out of the box and on to my plate. Irresistible . . . Swiss chocolates on Swiss International Air Lines. Two or three of them leap out of the box and on to my plate I get half way through an excellent movie, The Immigrant, starring a mesmerising Marion Cotillard and Joaquin Phoenix but the moment my legs and feet are elevated, it sends a message to the brain and delicious waves of sleep begin to overwhelm me. I give in, achieve horizontal in less than 10 seconds, snuggle under my soft blanket and lie my head on a pillow like a puffy cloud. I play with my console and discover I can also change the consistency of the “bed” from firm to soft and squishy. Bliss! The choices are endless and threaten to use up valuable sleep time. The other wonderful thing about lying flat out is that your mouth doesn’t hang embarrassingly ajar when you fall asleep, thereby alleviating the temptation to use your eye-mask to secure the jaw in the shut position. Ahh, sleep perchance to dream . . . Seven hours later, here’s Silvia again, as bright as a button, serving me a breakfast of fresh fruit, muesli, cheese, cold meats, French bread, warm croissant and Nespresso. All too soon, it’s time to land, my jacket is delivered back to me along with a special Swiss International Air Lines business class kit as a keepsake. Seldom in my hectic life do I ever have no option but to be idle – to rest, relax, read, converse, eat, drink, sleep and be entertained and waited upon, guilt-free for 13 hours. I don’t want to leave. I disembark so fresh and chirpy, my family are astounded. “Good flight?” they ask. “Yes, busy though, I’ve been flat-out,” I reply. Justine Tyerman travelled courtesy of Switzerland Tourism and Swiss International Air Lines. To learn more about Switzerland, visit www.myswitzerland.com Flights are available with Swiss International Air Lines on www.swiss.com Singapore’s Merlion near Marina Bay Sands hotel ## Clancy’s fancy lunch at a Sydney harbourside apartment Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/lunch-sydney-luxury-apartment Justine Tyerman falls in ‘motherly love’ with Clancy Atkinson, the celebrity chef who prepared lunch for her birthday at a harbourside apartment in Sydney… Preparing exquisite canapés the size of a 10 cent coin so glamorous women in expensive attire can eat without opening their mouths more than 2.5 centimetres was one of chef Clancy Atkinson’s many briefs while working for Gucci. The Australian celebrity chef worked for Gucci and other luxury brands for six and a half years in the world’s most exotic locations with the world’s most beautiful people… including Elle MacPherson. It was an insane life-style, working 100-hour weeks, catering for Gucci’s in-store private events and cocktail parties. Creative director Tom Ford was very detailed and precise in his instructions about size and presentation. I once used black sesame seeds in a canapé and they got stuck in a certain Gucci VIP’s teeth at a cocktail party — that didn’t go down at all well. They’ve been banned ever since! Moving on four years, Clancy is now the official chef for Luxe Houses, a Sydneybased business founded and owned by young entrepreneur Jessica Kirkpatrick who specialises in renting prestigious private properties in Australia and New Zealand to wealthy and famous clientele. Luxe Houses CEO/owner Jessica Kirkpatrick at La Corniche Clancy’s Luxe Houses work involves preparing dinners and cocktail parties for celebrity, private and business events. I offer an exclusive, personalised service, working with the client from start to finish, from menu design right through to the washing of the very last dish, he says. Chef Clancy arrives at La Corniche to prepare lunch Luxe Houses is a premium brand and they hold the keys to the best properties in Australia and New Zealand. Trust is very important to our clients. They don’t want to brief me on an important event and then have someone else do the cooking. I handle the whole process and have a high level of respect for the lovely houses I work in. I feel privileged to be a part of Luxe Houses. Jessica Kirkpatrick (founder and CEO) and her team are amazing and support many charities like the Cancer Council Australia. In fact, one of our Luxe Houses’ celebrity clients, Ronan Keating recently hosted the Emeralds and Ivy Ball that raised $440,000 for CCA. Luxe Houses was proudly one of the sponsors offering a generous prize which raised $11,000. Clancy was private chef for actor Gerard Butler at a Luxe Houses mansion for three months earlier this year while he was filming Gods of Egypt at Sydney’s Fox Studios. Gerard is a really nice guy. He was on the set from 6am until midnight and I had to help him maintain his physique. He used to eat a high protein diet of three steaks and 12 eggs a day … and lots of coconut water. It was my job to keep him happy. There was one coffee product I searched all over Sydney for I but could not find anywhere so we finally got it in from LA. Clancy loves Italian and Japanese food and only eats organic products. He says they taste cleaner and better. But he cooks to order and does not impose his ideas on his clients. Chef Clancy with his goat cheese, braised leek and mint pie with handmade olive oil pastry “I focus entirely on what the client wants.” He says, food knowledge has changed over time and people are not as crazy about farout ingredients as they used to be. “My clients want honest, clean food these days.” Clancy’s next assignment is at Palm Beach where he has been hired as private chef for the next three weeks by a family from London who are staying at a Luxe Houses beachfront mansion near “Summer Bay” where Home and Away is filmed. So when Jessica suggested that Clancy could cook a birthday lunch for me “at home” as part of the concierge services offered at La Corniche, I had to pinch myself … and her … to make sure I wasn’t hallucinating. I accepted the offer … quite fast. Clancy is a real gem, and does not fit the modern image of a celebrity chef — he’s sweet-natured, smiley, affable, unpretentious, amusing and did not use the ‘F’ word the whole time he was preparing and serving our lunch. Yours truly with chef Clancy (right) and his partner Aldo He has a winning way with people, loves the interaction with his clients and is often invited to eat with them. He said while catering a recent wedding, the bride’s mother started calling him her son. I can see why. After half an hour in his company, I had also fallen in motherly love with him. Just what exactly did he put in that lemonade … or was it the brownie? Clancy prepares the homemade lemonade with fresh mint and cucumber slices The menu… • Goat cheese, braised leek and mint pie with handmade olive oil pastry • Salad of shaved cauliflower, fennel, green apple and hazelnuts with sweet and sour honey dressing • Chargrilled asparagus with parmesan, pickled red grapes, baby cos and pickling juices • Banana gelato popsicle dipped in Belgian chocolate • White chocolate, cranberry and quinoa cookies • Fresh blueberry and bitter chocolate brownie • Homemade lemonade with fresh mint and cucumber slices Salad of shaved cauliflower, fennel, green apple and hazelnuts with sweet and sour honey dressing Salad of shaved cauliflower, fennel, green apple and hazelnuts with sweet and sour honey dressing Ingredients (serves 6) FOR SALAD: 1 small cauliflower, finely shaved Juice of 1 lemon 1 fennel, finely shaved 1 green apple, cut julienne ¼ cup picked and washed mint leaves ¼ cup picked and washed Italian parsley leaves 2 cups picked and washed rocket leaves 2 eschallots, finely sliced 100g pecorino cheese, shaved 50g hazelnuts, lightly roasted and crushed Sea salt and pepper Method 1. Add all ingredients except for pecorino to a mixing bowl. Dress salad with enough dressing to moisten and gently toss together. 2. Place salad on a serving plate and garnish with shaved pecorino. FOR SWEET AND SOUR HONEY DRESSING: 100ml white wine vinegar 100g caster sugar 4 tablespoons of honey 1. In a saucepan bring white wine vinegar and sugar to a simmer and heat until sugar is dissolved. 2. Next add honey and stir. 3. Allow to cool then refrigerate until ready to use. Fresh blueberry and dark chocolate brownie White chocolate, cranberry and quinoa cookies and fresh blueberry and bitter chocolate brownies Ingredients (serves 8) 350g (1½ cups) caster sugar 80g (⅔ cup) cocoa powder 60g plain flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 4 eggs, lightly beaten 200g unsalted butter, melted 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 200g fresh blueberries 200g dark chocolate roughly chopped Method 1. Preheat the oven to 160ºC. Line a 22cm square baking tin with baking paper. Stir together the sugar, cocoa powder, flour and baking powder in a bowl. 2. Mix in the eggs, butter and vanilla until combined, and then mix in the chocolate. 3. Pour mixture into the tin and place blueberries on top. 4. Bake brownie for 40 minutes. Leave to cool slightly in the tin, then turn out onto a wire rack. 5. Cut into squares to serve. Heady stuff for a Gizzy girl … I can still taste those fabulous plump pickled grapes that were brined for three days and bursting with flavour. It’s fascinating how one can rationalise an experience if it’s a one-off or a special occasion. I’m usually a small eater at lunchtime but I somehow managed to find perfectly valid reasons to consume two pieces of the delicious pie, several large helpings of the salad and asparagus, a whole blueberry brownie and a cookie followed by a chocolate-coated popsicle! Not to mention the fabulous lemonade. The banana gelato popsicle dipped in Belgian chocolate Among my excuses were: “This will never happen again … I’m not wasting a crumb of this fabulous food because of the effort and care put into it … and we can’t take any of it back to New Zealand.” We enjoyed it so much, we set the table precisely as Aldo had done for us at lunchtime, and did it all again for dinner with the dazzling lights of Luna Park, the bridge and opera house as the backdrop. Aldo sets the table for lunch with great attention to detail A few days after Clancy prepared and served our delicious lunch, La Corniche became the venue for Ronan Keating’s birthday soirée for his girlfriend. So as we vacated La Corniche, the singer and his entourage moved in. Heady stuff for a Gizzy girl! Clancy served a selection of handmade bespoke canapés, followed by the same cauliflower salad we had, veal with potato dauphinoise and spring greens, finishing with a lemon and green apple sorbet and petit fours. Clancy said the evening was a fantastic success and Ronan loved the food. Ronan Keating, his girlfriend Storm Uechtritz and chef Clancy Atkinson Justine Tyerman stayed at Luxe Houses’ La Corniche. Here’s her review. The main balcony at La Corniche Take a tour of www.luxehouses.com.au to inspect 200 spectacular properties on offer in Australia and New Zealand. ## The princess and the Sydney palace Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/sydney-luxe-houses-holiday-rental-properties Justine Tyerman’s childhood fantasy comes true at a palatial harbourside apartment in Sydney . . . When I was a little girl, pretending to be a princess in a palace was one of my favourite games. My obliging friends played the role of my courtiers but I don’t recall them having a turn as princess! I remembered this game a few weeks ago when I found myself in palatial surroundings at La Corniche, a Luxe Houses holiday rental property on the Sydney Harbour waterfront. There were no turrets or moats at the 14-room fifth-floor apartment and I’m not sure if any princesses have stayed there but many celebrities and VIPs have called the place home for a time. And the degree of luxury, grandeur of the views and the services available to guests certainly make La Corniche fit for royalty. We arrived at sunset as Sydney’s iconic sights were at their breathtaking best. The arch and pillars of the Harbour Bridge provided a perfect frame for the Opera House and as daylight faded, Luna Park put on a dazzling display with the famous Ferris wheel lit up like a giant Catherine wheel. Luna Park is dazzling by night from the balcony at La Corniche It took no time at all for me to resume my princessly demeanour but my husband and daughter had some difficulty coming to terms with their new roles as “courtiers”. However I discovered La Corniche came with a concierge and a tantalising list of bespoke services I could order, if I so desired – lunch, cocktails or dinner prepared “at home” by Luxe Houses’ own chef-to-the-stars; fine wines and fresh produce delivered to the kitchen which my food-obsessed “courtiers” got very excited about; in-house yoga, beauty, massage, hair, skin and revitalisation pampering; a personal shopper to advise me on the latest fashions; cruising on board a luxury super-yacht; flights by private jet; and even some acrobatic manoeuvres high above the harbour in a fighter jet. It was so hard to decide, but after consulting with our concierge, we chose lunch for three prepared in “our kitchen” by chef Clancy Atkinson, and some feminine pampering. Chef Clancy (right), Aldo and yours truly Clancy worked for Gucci and other luxury brands for six and a half years before taking up the position as official chef for Luxe Houses. Sweet-natured, amusing and unpretentious, Clancy does not fit the modern image of a temperamental celebrity chef at all. He’s a charmer. Our delicious Gourmet Spring Lunch was presented on regal Pillivuyt French porcelain plates at the 10-seater round dining table by the picture window overlooking the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, but for once the view was upstaged by the food. Clancy’s fancy lunch served with a view… The menu was: Goat cheese, braised leek and mint pie with handmade olive oil pastry Salad of shaved cauliflower, fennel, green apple and hazelnuts with sweet and sour honey dressing Chargrilled asparagus with parmesan, pickled red grapes, baby cos and pickling juices Banana gelato popsicle dipped in Belgian chocolate White chocolate, cranberry and quinoa cookies Fresh blueberry and bitter chocolate brownie Homemade lemonade with fresh mint and cucumber slices In the days that followed, we explored the delights and surprises of this exceptional private home, owned by a New Zealand family. The sheer size of the apartment, which takes up the whole floor at La Corniche, one of Sydney’s most sought-after waterfront apartment buildings, is impressive. At 300 sq.m it is extraordinarily spacious, especially the grand entrance-way, living, entertainment, bar and dining areas with their marble floors and Italian sculptures. My favourite chair beside the high-powered binoculars in the living area I “held court” at either the oval walnut boardroom table in front of a pair of massive antique doors or the leather armchair and footrest set in the curved window of the living space beside a set of powerful binoculars – an ideal place to watch the daily parade of massive ocean liners cruising past at eye-level. A cruise ship glides past La Corniche on Sydney Harbour My “courtiers” preferred to sprawl on the huge white leather L-shaped couch in the living area where they could control the high-tech sound system and five televisions throughout the apartment. We lived an idyllic life, barely leaving the “palace” except to swim in the heated indoor pool, soak in the jacuzzi with super-charged bubbles, steam in the sauna and work out at the gym, all handily-located, a few steps downstairs from the apartment. Justine chilling out with a glass of pinot noir on the white leather couch In the sumptuous luxury of La Corniche with spectacular panoramas from every window and balcony, there seemed little reason to go anywhere else which made for a truly relaxing break from our hectic lives. For Foodies, too The foodies in the family were happy in the marble kitchen with its battery of German Gaggenau appliances and Nespresso machine, sans George Clooney, not to mention the well-stocked butler’s pantry. They cooked delectable meals from produce delivered to the residence as part of the Luxe Houses’ concierge service and we dined in style inside by the picture windows or on mild evenings, outside on the balcony, admiring Sydney by night. The main balcony at La Corniche La Corniche would be a prime spot to celebrate New Year’s Eve – guests are guaranteed box seats for the spectacular annual fireworks display launched at midnight from the Harbour Bridge arch. The apartment would also be a perfect venue to watch the annual Vivid Festival in May-June when the Harbour Bridge and Opera House are centrepieces of a fabulous light and music extravaganza. We had guests for drinks one evening, seated at the bar where many celebrities have entertained their A-lister friends. There were enough crystal glasses in the cabinets to invite the whole royal family. Your private spa At night, I sank up to my nose in the luxurious spa bath, one of two at the residence, and watched as the ferries criss-crossed across the harbour, calling at Circular Quay before dropping into McMahon’s Point jetty immediately below us. Even the hydro-therapy shower in the master ensuite had a stunning view. Hydro-therapy shower in master bedroom ensuite bathroom The three bedrooms had deep, plush carpet and tiled ensuite bathrooms while the master bedroom had a large dressing room for all my jewels and finery. The beds, made up with finest linen, were superbly comfortable – certainly fit for a princess. About Luxe Houses I was shown around La Corniche by Luxe Houses founder and CEO Jessica Kirkpatrick who has welcomed many a celebrity to the 200 prestigious private rental properties she manages in Australia and New Zealand. I was expecting a tough-talking, middle-aged Australian businesswoman but instead met a beautiful, clever young entrepreneur who has carved out a high-end niche market, securing Australia and New Zealand’s most desirable properties for her rich and famous clientele including Gerard Butler and Ronan Keating. Luxe Houses CEO Jessica Kirkpatrick at La Corniche The Sydney University economics graduate and former UBS wealth management advisor and competitive polo player, is married to Ben and describes herself as a “mumpreneur” having given birth to their first child, daughter Ayla two years ago, about the same time she began setting up Luxe Houses. In recent years we have seen the emergence of the domestic and international luxury traveller seeking more bespoke accommodation. says Jessica. The Luxe Houses portfolio provides these discerning travellers with an elite experience in some of Australia’s most exclusive private houses. It’s where stars, black-book celebrities and well-to-do expats call first to seek outstanding accommodation. La Corniche is one of our flagship properties but there are stunning multi-million dollar listings scattered all around Sydney including fashion icon Collette Dinnigan’s former Paddington home and stylish Tamarama mansions overlooking the sand, sea and coastal walkway to world-famous Bondi Beach. Looking ahead, we are planning to expand Luxe Houses globally – the UK is next on the horizon and then Switzerland. Luxe Houses are also used by businesses for corporate, public relations and media events, VIP client entertainment, product launches, advertising campaigns, movie/photography shoots and conferences. As we moved out, Ronan Keating and his entourage moved in to celebrate a birthday soirée for his girlfriend, catered for by “our Clancy”. Had Ronan known I was a princess, I’m sure I would have been invited. Dining in style like Ronan Keating’s girlfriend Meanwhile, my entourage and I spent the weekend at one of Luxe Houses beachfront properties, overlooking the famous stretch of sand at Bondi, a beautiful beach resort just seven kilometres from Sydney CBD, one of the world’s busiest cities. Bondi Beach at dusk from the balcony at the Notts Ave Luxe Houses apartment While a little more compact than La Corniche, the view from the top-floor, two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment was spectacular. The spacious living/dining area opened onto a large balcony and even from the kitchen at the rear of the apartment, you could see the surfers and paddle-boarders catching waves. A surfer rides a wave at Bondi Beach I claimed the armchair and footrest beside the floor-to-ceiling balcony doors as my “throne” although the lounger on the huge rooftop balcony with its splendid 360 degree view of Bondi was also a top contender. Rooftop balcony at the Notts Ave Luxe Houses apartment overlooking Bondi Beach The bed linen and towels were so thick and luxurious I thought they were doubled and the feather pillows were like resting your head on a cloud, while the tiled bathrooms had mirror walls which pleased the princess no end. Master bedroom overlooking Bondi Beach We slept with the doors and curtains wide open to the balcony so we could see the sun rising over the sea. Unforgettable! And for a special treat, we asked the concierge to organise a yoga session at home on the balcony. Everyone does yoga at Bondi . . . even princesses. Justine Tyerman stayed at the following Luxe Houses http://www.luxehouses.com.au/holiday-house/la-corniche/ http://www.luxehouses.com.au/holiday-house/notts-bondi/ Visit www.luxehouses.com.au to view 200 spectacular properties in Australia and New Zealand. Getting there Air New Zealand flies direct to Sydney from Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Queenstown and Rotorua with flight options also available on alliance partner Virgin Australia. A range of inflight products are available including; Seat, Seat + Bag, The Works and Works Deluxe. One way ‘Seat’ fares ex-Auckland start from $206 (inclusive of taxes). ## A Guys-only Trip to Edinburgh Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/guys-trip-edinburgh After a good deal of badgering, the way boys tend to do, Phoudy finally got around to organizing this year’s guycation. After an elaborate selection process Edinburgh got the nod for our customary city visit. A sophisticated selection system was needed first of all because so many guys put in their two cents worth, second, because the wives had to inject a few choice words, too, and, above all, because we had a few specialists who early on voted for a certain destination but then decided to bow out. And so it went… Picturesque Scottish Edinburgh Naturally, it was a bit awkward, politically-speaking, that we picked the very weekend the Scots were voting on staying in the United Kingdom or going their own independent Scottish way. So, we were unsure if easyJet would deposit us in Scotland or in the UK. We made a safe landing anyway. Fortunately! Fly more elegantly in a Super Connie And it absolutely had to be easyJet from Basel, because a couple of the guys didn’t want to get up for the early Swiss Air flight from Zurich. So that meant having to transport the Wild Bunch to Basel. Nine by number, as it turned out. Because Nick did take Swiss after all and Dan had to manage his son’s first day at school so he would follow later. For Lou, Olivier and I, the whole thing got too hectic, and we made do with the train’s restaurant car. So pleasant and comfortable! I’m still mystified today how Dan subsequently found us in a bar in Edinburgh. But then Phoudy had found his way out of Ko Pha Ngan by the red China Sea all by himself after we had lost him somewhere in the trackless jungle. But that’s another story… Back to Edinburgh: here we were in a neatly laid-out town with lots of cobblestoned streets, cheap taxis and plenty of whisky tasting. Taxi in camouflage The guys on the road, grey on grey, as already critiqued by the Facebook trolls…Colourful plaid just isn’t quite our cup of tea… We followed protocol and right away made whisky our number one priority and our first stop the venerable Scotch Whisky Excellence. Aptly, we conveniently had to make our way through a tantalizing whisky shop to get to the tasting bar and the Amber Restaurant. Dinner in the Amber Restaurant (and Bar) Once lined up at the bar for before-dinner drinks, we faced the agony of choice: try one of the countless beers or go straight for the even more countless whiskies? There are certain kinds that they decant to stimulate the appetite, such as Isle of Jura for example. That’s what I went for; as for the rest of the guys, some went for this and some went for that. It was all good. Workmanlike beer and whisky tasting We kept it going in the restaurant conveniently located right next door. Here, too, they offered a Scottish tasting menu, with no less than five courses. For starters, there were Scottish tapas with fabulous names like Haggis Bon Bons or Potted Hough. Well, we felt like highlanders in no time at all, and after a little Cullen Skink soup we followed up with Castle of Mey beef and West Coast langoustines in whisky butter on carrot rösti for our main courses. We found out: The Tartans polish off their obligatory oatcakes with a selection of Iain Mellis cheeses: Grimbister, Auld Reekie and Lanark Blue are the robust names on the cheese board. And, finally, to round out the whole thing, they dish up a preserved raspberry and whisky liqueur ice cream bombe topped with a wafer and sugar cone. Cheers! Raising the general merriment to another level, no, make that to the “off-the-meter noise level”, the 11 of us were joined by roughly 16 lads not averse to yelling battle cries who were also on a Scottish guys-only trip. Whether they were Unionists or Separatists or their swearing had some other explanation regrettably escaped me; not being fluent in High Scots, I didn’t understand a word… From their antics it was easy to surmise, however, why they call a bad tackle on flankers in the soccer pitch penalty box the “Scottish half-high.” Thanks, loads! Gothic St. Giles Cathedral, where John Knox once preached. Here somebody actually has the balls to park his jalopy right in the pedestrian zone… Edinburgh Castle while hunting for a suitable nightcap. After a fitting nightcap, it was back to our plush lodgings. Noble lodgings in the Old Town Chambers Trip organizer Phoudy did not trip up AT ALL by having us billeted right around the corner from the Parliament building in some stylishly renovated apartments, the Old Town Chambers. These two huge apartments came with lofts and all the necessaries. It was only right, I mean, after he made us ride into New York City in that stretch limo… Elegantly renovated Old Town Chamber Apartments in the heart of Old Town. The central location is outstanding, since it is halfway insulated acoustically by a courtyard. Well, ok, with emphasis on “halfway,” for like the other Northern Lights, they are known for having rather large glasses and big thirsts here, so that, on weekend nights, there would occasionally be a fair amount of revelry going on. Especially since we lived right by a steep flight of stairs… The boys on the “ascent” to the Hotel “Old Town Chambers” The apartments do come with kitchen and dining nooks. But for people like us who do not want to fill up the refrigerator for just a weekend, there is morning coffee and brioche to be had around the corner at Café Nero. But I suggest skipping the Italian and instead reserving a real hearty Scottish breakfast with the Frenchman in the Patisserie Valerie. It will help with possible alcoholic hangovers from the previous night and help ease you through the day! Hearty Scottish breakfast at the “Frenchman’s”. Things to see in Edinburgh Wale, Lou und Peschä in foreshortened pants Of course, the Castle that is visible from everywhere is a must-see. Especially since all sorts of curiosities line the Royal Mile to the Castle. And by that I don’t mean the sturdy gentlemen in their tartan kilts, but the guys in their (fore) short (ened) jeans… Also worth seeing is Rose Street, one of a set of streets laid out in a chessboard pattern by James Craig in the year 1767 with separate access roads. Today, it is lined first with shops and then farther down with restaurants. Depending on which end you start from… Rose Street planned by James Craig For a change of scenery, head for George Street, which runs parallel to Rose Street, and dive into Tigerlily, a stylish watering hole done in pink. Evenings, the tables are mostly taken by the ladies. Could it be because of the lilac tones? But probably the logic at work here is this: Take lots of pink and lilac to attract gentle femininity; once the word gets around, the boys will show up automatically (regardless). Besides the restaurant and bar, there are also 33 elegant suites and rooms. Once again, there’s plenty of lilac for those partial to it. Plush lilac atmosphere in Tigerlily In the evenings, the tables are mainly taken by the ladies. Also of interest, especially for fans of the Queen and Sir Sean Connery – or for architecture freaks like us – is the Queen’s Residence, the Holyroodhouse Palace and particularly the adjoining ruin of Holyrood Abbey dating from 1128. It became cannon fodder for the English in the 18th century and since then serves as an unusual photo subject. Still fancy! Ruin of Holyrood Abbey Dan and Lou like it! But be warned that before you can grope your way to the spectacular ruin, you first have to show your heels to the Royal Palace with its collection of the Queen’s chambers. And wouldn’t you know, Sean Connery was knighted in the Great Gallery! Or are knights knighted and sirs named? #whatever Be sure also to make an excursion to the harbor district. Take a taxi or, like us, get chauffeured in Nick’s Mercedes limo with Pädu as navigator with an iPhone whose battery went dead and assisted by me with Android phone with battery but without data roaming. Nick with aplomb in Edinburgh’s left-hand traffic Despite this, we of course made our way there masterfully and caught the sunset just in time. And also for our aperitif in the Loch Fyne seafood restaurant, we scarfed up or rather slurped down some oysters. After all, we indulge so infrequently… And that’s all he wrote! Have good flight home everyone! ## Park Weggis – Riviera feeling on Lake Lucerne Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/park-weggis-luxury-hotel The hotel’s name says it all: Surrounded by its magnificent park-like grounds, the renowned Park Weggis resides right on the shore of Lake Lucerne. With private lake access, beachfront and boat dock, and a stunning vista of the Rigi and the Swiss Central Alps, the hotel grounds instill a pure Riviera feeling! Update October 29th The hotel is currently closed. It is being refurbished and will reopen in the spring of 2019. Here’s our original review: We became aware of Park Weggis for the first time in 2006, because that year Brazil’s soccer team lodged here ahead of the World Cup in Germany. Ever since we had visited a training session by Ronaldinho and company in Weggis, Walter has harbored the wish to let himself be spoiled someday at the Park Weggis just like a Brazilian soccer star. He is sure he qualifies by virtue of his Young Masters soccer skills. Well, his long-held dream came true; so now he is half Brazilian ;-) The elegantly playful Park Weggis Hotel Excited and full of anticipation for a sterling weekend, we set out on a gorgeous autumn day for Central Switzerland. Almost as soon as we pull up to the front of the Park Weggis, we are greeted by the friendly concierge. With quick wit and without batting an eye he deflects Walter’s indefatigable clichés and welcomes us anyway. No doubt he’s seen and heard it all… Right away, we feel we are in good hands and the moment we step out on the terrace (with unobstructed lake and mountain view) -– we can see we’re going to like it here! Splendid view of the “Schlössli” wing and Lake Lucerne Park Weggis – the name says it all The gorgeous park with private beachfront on Lake Lucerne is a super place to linger, Riviera feeling guaranteed! For a taste of the atmosphere, just check out our little video: “Around the Park Hotel Weggis in 80 seconds.” But the amazement continues practically unabated inside the Park Hotel: Proudly, the personable hotel manager Peter Kämpfer shows us “his” hotel. The bustling host (the customary title given the manager in Relais & Châteaux Hotels) knows the Park Hotel’s history down to the smallest detail, having experienced and influenced all sorts of renovations, rebuilding, and expansions of the resort over the past 16 years. Throughout it all, he still greeted countless illustrious guests, among them Ronaldinho (and Walter…) personally. Host Peter Kämpfer in the Rachmaninoff Suite The whole house is filled with chic designer furniture and luminaires, that skillfully contrast with the traditional and classic hotel ambiance to create an animated, playful atmosphere. The rooms and suites The 42 rooms and suites housed in the main building and the Schlössli wing were joined in July 2007 by ten other lavish, elegant “Adara Suites” located in an adjoining wing by the Japanese garden. Japanese garden in front of the new suite wing Suiten-Trakt The “Adara” Suite has everything that appeals to us: simple design with premium materials and colors and, incidentally, a giant, two-level “Big Rain” rain shower with view (!) of Lake Lucerne. To Walter it seemed that in Switzerland he had only experienced a rain shower this size in the Vals thermal baths… Anyone out there know? Does the Park Weggis in fact have the biggest rain shower anywhere? Whatever the case, the junior suite surprises with still more amenities – such as the climate-controlled wine cabinet stocked with noble vintages. It doesn’t get any better! Adara junior suite with generous design But the Mark Twain suites in the Schlössli wing also leave nothing to be desired! Artwork by Howard Schatz, for example, helps set the mood here behind the free-standing bathtub. Free-standing bathtub and artwork by Howard Schatz Of additional interest, there is still also the two-story Rachmaninoff Suite to choose from…. We probably shot the most photos under the gables of the Schlössli wing. Sofa in the Rachmaninoff Suite bedroom Authors and composers seem to have enjoyed themselves in Weggis. And now we know why… And the Brazil stars, too, are supposed to have been housed one per room and not by twos, as we hear is normal practice for training camps. “Simple” fare at the Park Grill Taking meals in the Park Weggis means having the agony of choice! According to whim, you “must” decide between the Sparks Restaurant with its 15 Gault-Millau points or the promising grill restaurant Park Grill. Sparks Restaurant in with sunset mood We chose the Park Grill by André Jäger that just opened this past spring. This is the grill restaurant’s concept as developed by Schaffhausen’s Chef André Jäger who is endowed with 19 Gault-Millau points: pure and authentic. In other words, here is practiced the courage to be simple: what goes on the plate is a cut of meat – that’s it. But what a cut! Entrance to the Park Grill gourmet restaurant We had a Nebraska Wagyu tenderloin and a US prime Black Angus filet and were blown away by the quality of the meat! It needs no fancy frills; you let the star take center stage and just delight in every single bite of the beef as it melts tenderly in your mouth. Heavenly Nebraska Wagyu filet Ok, the price is not nothing… the Wagyu filet will set you back a hefty 90 CHF (side dishes are extra, and so are appetizers and desserts, of course.) However, never have we had such a succulent piece of beef in Switzerland! We need to hark back to Argentina to make it into the same league. And so it also came as no surprise when we learned a few days later that the Park Grill was awarded 14 Gault-Millau points! Sincere congratulations! Definitely worth mentioning is also the legendary house wine cellar, with more than 2,500 different wines – – among them unusual, rare and sought-after bottles from the world’s best vineyards. On the card among them you can also find very noble vintages from the Sine Qua Non wine estate. Depending on rarity, the prices for a bottle of wine are not exactly in the stamp money range. But selected wines are also served discreetly by the glass, so that even moderate wine drinkers like us can have a glass filled with a special variety. Definitely do not pass up this offering with the Wagyu! So, to your very good health! Park Weggis wine cellar The Spa Cottages As aficionados of private spas, we certainly could not pass up the chance to visit an Asian Spa Cottage! The 70m2 “cottages” are outfitted with whirlpool, Kneipp fountain, sauna or steam room, foot basin and relaxation zone with waterbed. They provide two hours of pure pleasure in a private space with Far Eastern ambiance. Private Spa Cottage Two more highlights of the “Sparkling Spa” – the name given the wellness area – consist, first, of the infinity pool of black natural stone in a temple-like structure with columns with a wonderful view of the lake and, second, the Tibet-inspired relaxation room. Out of this world! Tibetan-style relaxation room in the Sparkling Spa With thanks to… Sincere thanks to Host Peter Kämpfer for the generous invitation and the entertaining hotel tour, and to Nadine Kämpfer, Head of Marketing, for the perfect organizing! A further big thank you to the entire service- team for the hospitality, and to Cornelia Neefe, the Park Grill’s Chef de Service and her thoughtful team, for terrific service. If you are interested in staying at the Park Weggis, find out here about prices and availability. The Five Star Superior Park Hotel Weggis is a member of Relais & Châteaux and Swiss Deluxe Hot ## Swiss Alps: Mountain hiking in the Hoch-Ybrig Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/mountain-hiking-hoch-ybrig This time, on a bright Sunday, we traded our golf shoes for hiking boots to try an easy mountain hike in the Swiss Alps. Here is what we discovered… The Hoch-Ybrig region is especially popular with Zurichers because it is so close to the city: A mere hour’s drive from Zurich, we found a tolerably good ski area ranging over several slopes that offer more than a little variety. But this time we ventured out into green meadows to see how we would like a mountain hike here. Let’s cut to the chase right away: on our hike, we came across the Swiss National Critter, enjoyed the view, and finished the easy (almost) 2.5 hour trek in good shape. This is how we did it: the best way is to transport yourself by car or public transit (1 hour 50 minutes from Zurich) to the Weglosen-Seebli Aerial Tramway and then let it haul you up to the mountain station. From there, it’s on to the Klein Sternen mountain station of the Seebli chairlift. This is the first place you get a 360 degree panoramic view. Peer over the crest and you can even look all the way down into the Muota valley. The Muota valley seen from a Hoch-Ybrig mountain hike An easy hike along the undulating mountain crest brought us to Spirstock mountain chalet. This hike forms part of the Schwyz Panorama Trail, which has the following stations: Sattel valley station, Sattel-Mostelberg – Mostelberg – Mostelegg – Haggenegg – Holzegg – Ibergeregg Passhöhe – Sternenegg – Windegg – Spirstock – Sternen. Pretty exotic naming! Along the way we had beguiling vistas of Lake Lucerne, the Stoos, the Rigi and the twin Mythen peaks. Lake Lucerne seen from the Hoch-Ybrig mountain hike Be prepared to have the Swiss National Animal block your way now and then. The thing to do in case of such encounter is to fearlessly squeeze on by between the animal and the abyss so you can get to your well-earned hot soup in the next mountain restaurant… Cow / steer in the Hoch-Ybrig Looking back from the Spirstock Restaurant, we had another impressive view of the Hoch-Ybrig “ski area.” The entire scene becomes that much more dramatic when clouds move in from the Muota Valley to pile up above the crest… A view of the Hoch-Ybrig mountain hiking trail seen from the Spirstock Up to this point, it had been an easy trek of barely an hour (including time for the odd photograph). The simple way back to the aerial tramway is by taking the chairlift. But, of course, we still hadn’t had enough. And so, we made our way down on foot past a small mountain chapel. That, too, would normally be an easy hike. But, alas, it had rained on and off during the summer and left the ground very soft. You could tell from the hoof prints that the cows knew how to handle it, but yours truly, on the other hand, expected a bit too much grip from his hiking boots, and so, at one of the steeper places, I did a half backward somersault into the dirt . (Expletive!) After my fall … After a seemingly extra-long second in shock, a bit of deep breathing and stretching and wiping off the worst of the mud, we moved on. My pulse had slowed down enough by the time we reached the aerial tram that I could be Cool Hand Luke again and with my muddy outfit make like I was one of the Danger Guys. Quelle aventure! ## Romantic Son Penya Petit Hotel in Mallorca Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/mallorca/son-penya-petit-hotel Just a few kilometers from the village of Sant Llorenc in northeast Mallorca we discovered a small jewel of a boutique hotel! The stylish finca hotel Son Penya sits amid olive, almond, lemon and carob trees and seekers of serenity and lovers of nature could not ask for a better place to stay! Far from the touristic side of this Balearic island, here on the giant estate of Finca Son Penya time seems to have stopped. Comfortable outdoor lounge The owner-managed 4-star country hotel feels like a little oasis. You instantly feel at ease and instinctively sense: this must be what it’s like to arrive in paradise, where you can truly take a break from the ordinary, watch the sheep graze, fall asleep at night to crickets chirping and wake up next morning with a rooster crowing in the distance… Perfectly idyllic! Son Penya Petit Hotel Mallorca This small oasis with 12 exclusive room was created by Mallorca’s star architect and designer Toni Esteva from old houses formerly devoted to livestock farming. The Finca at dusk The finca casts a magic spell over its guests already starting with the wonderful outdoor amenities of pool, canopy beds and well-tended garden. As a bonus, you have a sublime view of the surrounding fields and forests! Wonderful property with olive trees and gardens Add to that the atmospheric architecture, a combination of rustic ambiance and elegant design, and you have just the right backdrop for a romantic vacation… Stylish interior You will find in the public area a small salon with fireplace, a “living room” with sofa patio and Internet corner complemented by a library and reading room. Library with loft But in the summer months, of course, life as ever takes place outdoors be it by the pool, in the garden restaurant, or on the private patio of your room. Lounge with a view Your hosts in this idyllic place are Aina and Gabriel Massanet. Together with their son Xavi they personally do their utmost to look after their guests’ wellbeing. It is therefore not by chance that the boss himself serves breakfast. As Gabriel explained to us during an interview, this is how he wants it on purpose. For only like this can he get to know his guests and get a sense of what their pleasure is. The interview with Gabriel Massanet (3:58, in Spanish) is available on YouTube. Gabriel is well versed in German. But most often it is Sonia Cordes, a German who grew up in Mallorca, who communicates with the German and Swiss clientele. So, language-wise, there are no hurdles of any kind; you can feel right at home here. The rooms and suites The finca has a total of 12 exclusive rooms: six doubles and six junior suites. All are bright, stylish and purist and feature upscale appointments, including bathrooms with Jacuzzi(!) OK, in the summer months the Jacuzzi will probably see only occasional use, but having it in the room somehow seems just right regardless! Double room with Jacuzzi The junior suites have a separate living area next to the bedroom. Each room comes with its own patio with sun lounges, for your enjoyment in privacy. View from private patio into room The finca has been furnished with great love of detail. Small, but posh – a genuine pearl! Better dining in the hotel’s own restaurant For your bodily nourishment, look no farther than the small restaurant with delicacies of Mediterranean cuisine and Mallorcan products. The ingredients are regionally-sourced; some even come from the organically-farmed hotel garden. But above all, in this wonderful ambiance everything can be enjoyed in a heavenly way! Garden restaurant with atmosphere Breakfast, too, made fans of us! A varied, continental buffet is served, replete with regional treats (the iberico dry cured ham was top notch!) Any egg dish you desire will be cooked to order. Also nice: the latte macchiato is not supersized like it is back home… Breakfast in paradise Wellness The small but beautiful wellness area provides more relaxation for body and soul. It beckons with a heated indoor pool, sauna, Turkish steam bath, and relaxation room. Naturally, massages or beauty treatments are on offer. Since we had gorgeous summer weather (30 degrees Centigrade), we skipped the wellness area. It was too heavenly in the garden or by the pool… Indoor pool in the spa Golf courses in northeast Mallorca Close by the Son Penya Hotel are three spectacular golf courses: Pula Golf, Capdepera Golf, and Canyamel Golf. The hotel offers reduced green fees for its guest and also takes care of reserving tee times. We recorded our impressions of these golf courses and how we fared on them in a separate report. Canyamel Golf Course ## A choice of varied golf courses on Mallorca’s East Coast Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/mallorca/golf-courses-mallorca-east-coast It’s not for nothing that Mallorca is one of the most popular golfing destinations for Europeans: the weather on Spain’s largest island is dependable, the island is easily reached by air in a couple of hours and it sports spectacular golf courses… This time around we took a look at Mallorca’s northeast. But of course we also made a side trip to Palma. No question, even on “golf-free” days the most popular of the Balearic islands unpacks all you need for a good time vacation. The vibrant capital, painterly landscapes, small picturesque fishing villages, fantastic beaches and coves make it a real out-of-this-world package deal! Oh, and of course let’s not forget the nightlife… On our most recent flying visit, we practiced our swing on these fine golf courses on Mallorca’s east coast: Scenic Canyamel Golf Course The 6,000 m long Canyamel Golf Course is exciting and challenging! The course (Par 73) actually starts in the spectacularly situated club house: A very stylish restaurant decorated in blue and white boasting awe-inspriring views from its sun terrace will stop you in your tracks. Steady now, head up, chest out, slip on that golf glove and act like you’re not impressed! Terrace of the Canyamel Golf clubhouse Golfers so inclined right away will ask why does the Golf Club’s logo display a tortoise? Explanation: playing around live tortoises on the course seems to be normal here. Alas, this time it was not meant to be… the only tortoise we saw was sculpted in bronze and it sat by the entrance to the grounds. Well, whatever; golf architect José Gancedo did a great job in 1988 blending the holes with the terrain: Long undulating fairways laid out with their sand bunkers call for playing a well thought-out game. Not exactly my forte, as everyone will tell you. Indeed, I’d rather swing first and think later…just like in real life. Terraced fairway at the Par 3 14th hole at Canyamel Golf While the first 9 holes are on rolling terrain, the back 9 are placed in the somewhat longer and flatter second part with stands of trees for scenic variety. Olive tree and bunker in Canyamel Since the course lies close to the ocean, some fairways offer marvelous and naturally diverting Mediterranean vistas. But, hey, otherwise it would be too easy… right? Layout of the Canyamel Golf Course But the flatter back 9 portion packs a punch at the very end: The spectacular 18th hole takes you back to the clubhouse. Before a backdrop of assorted spectators you are called on to master the 160 meter long uphill Par 3 and then sink your putt on a triple graded green. Not too tricky…. 18th hole: The tee shot got me on the green, but after that…don’t ask. Son Servera Golf: beautifully embedded in nature The Son Servera Golf Course is the second-oldest of Mallorca’s golf courses. Designed by John Harris and opened in 1967 it hides away nestled among mountains in the quiet backcountry of the Costa de los Pinos. Son Servera Golf Course with winding fairway Laid out between pine-covered mountains, the course is very idyllic, and you can enjoy a captivating view of the Bay of Levante – that is, if you want to let yourself be distracted. Bay of Levante vista The course was expanded from 9 to 18 holes in 2012. It is nearly impossible to tell which are the old fairways since they were so expertly integrated into the new course. Still, the place could use a little upgrade; the clubhouse is no longer quite among the most modern of its kind. But it is definitely still the place for a tasty Boccadillo with ham and cheese… Fountain and green – Son Servera Golf Capdepera Golf and Restaurant The Dan Maples-designed Capdepera Golf Course has a fairly flat profile. However, on the last few fairways, when you’re already a bit on the ropes, the course abruptly climbs mountainward and offers you a fantastic down-valley view. Capdepera Golf Course The six manmade lakes along the fairway and the very well maintained greens make playing golf in Capdepera a golf experience of the special kind. Because it can get hot here, we highly recommend a golfcart no matter how fit you are! 17th green Here, too, we very much liked the clubhouse in the style of a Mallorcan finca! Capdepera Golf clubhouse And the 19th hole aka Restaurant “Roca Viva“ is well-known for a fine dining experience. Capdepera Golf restaurant Or how about a plate of sea critter fritters with beer after a completed round? Well-deserved tapas and beer after 18 holes of golf Time your visit for late August, and you will enjoy being there after high vacation season and before high golf season… Also recommended in Mallorca’s northeast is Golfclub Alcanada. We will test it next time, because this was far from being our last time in Mallorca! ## Atacama – excursiones en el desierto màs seco del mundo Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/atacama-excursiones-desierto Aquí una breve reseña de los viajes y excursiones mas impresionantes en el desierto: Géiseres “El Tatio” Un impresionante espectáculo natural se puede contemplar al amanecer en los géiseres del Tatio. En la planicie a unos 4.300 metros de altura brotan varios manantiales calientes desde el interior de los Andes. Walter & Katja en los géiseres del Tatio Debido a los 80 grados de temperatura de los manantiales surgen espectaculares fuentes de vapor que alcanzan varios metros de altura. A fin de presenciar este espectáculo, tuvimos que levantarnos a las 05:00 porque el viaje a los géiseres tarda unas 2 horas y después de las 09:00 el espectáculo se reduce lentamente debido a que la diferencia de temperatura entre la fuente y la superficie disminuye y el viento dispersa el vapor. Géisers del Tatio al amanecer ¡ Pero en todo caso vale la pena ! ¡ Esta excursión simplemente no se puede perder ! ¡ Pero hay que vestirse bastante abrigado ! Por la mañana hacían apenas -6 grados … (Sí, esto es un “menos”) Esto es muy helado incluso para los Suizos acostumbrados al frío. sobre todo porque allí era verano! Más tarde, hacían mas de 20 grados de calor, hay que vestirse por capas de acuerdo al probado principio de la cebolla. Bañarse en la laguna Cejar Un poco más relajado, pero no menos fascinante, es el ir y venir en las lagunas. El Salar de Atacama se encuentra a 2.300 metros de altura. Actividades en el lago de sal Cejar Con una superficie de 3.000 m², es uno de los lagos de sal mas grandes de la tierra. ¡ Con todos sus cristales de sal que brillan como diamantes, los tonos de tierra y el cielo azul se produce simplemente una imagen sensacional! Reflexiones del volcán en el Salar de Atacama Si no lo hubiéramos sabido, se podría haber pensado, que estábamos caminando sobre la nieve congelada … taaan familiar. Guia Jorge y Walter En todo caso la natación está prohibida, debido a que las lagunas con gran contenido de minerales son el hogar de flamencos y otras aves. En todo caso no dejamos de bañarnos en la laguna Cejar y disfrutar la sensación de estar flotando debido al alto contenido de sal. Katja y Walter flotan en el lago salado “Cejar” El agua salada es siete veces más densa que el agua fresca “ordinaria”, se flota como un corcho en el agua. Simplemente ¡ fantástico ! Valle de la luna & Valle de la muerte Uno de los valles más famosos y más visitados es el Valle de la luna. El nombre del valle no es casualidad … El paisaje recuerda justamente una superficie en relieve del paisaje lunar con muchos cráteres y ofrece un espectáculo impresionante con las extrañas formaciones de rocas de sal. Bus de turistas en el Valle de la Luna en Atacama Entre las figuras más conocidas, está la formación de sal “Las Tres Marías” .. Ok, por supuesto se necesita un poco de imaginación … Formación de sal Las Tres Marías en el Valle de la Luna en el desierto de Atacama Igualmente popular es una gran duna de arena al borde del Valle de la Luna, desde donde se puede disfrutar una magnífica vista del Valle de la muerte. Al atardecer todos los turistas se reúnen para admirar la espectacular puesta de sol. Puesta de sol en el Valle de la Luna con el volcán Licancabur al fondo Pero nuestro guía Jorge Corante sabía, por supuesto, en qué rincón de la duna podíamos evitar las otras personas con ideas similares, para poder disfrutar la puesta de sol sin ser molestados :-) Canyoning en el desfiladero Cardone Bueno, llamarlo “canyoning” es en todo caso un poco exagerado, considerando que estábamos en efecto al medio del desierto, se puede imaginar algo así, pero con menos agua … Cola de zorro en el desfiladero Cardones La caminata a través de un desfiladero con colas de zorro y cactos era sin duda muy espectacular y tuvimos que apoyarnos con las manos en varias ocasiones con el fin de vencer los acantilados … Katja y Walter in el desfiladero Cardones Punto de observación Pucara de Quitor En las afueras de San Pedro de Atacama en dirección al Hotel Alto Atacama se encuentra un punto de observación histórico. Punto de observación Pucara de Quitor En la cumbre hay una cruz enorme con inscripciones para conmemorar las guerras del pasado. Lo mencionamos aquí para referirnos a la vista grandiosa y dejamos de lado el sangriento pasado del lugar … Observación de las estrellas Quien haya estado en el desierto, sabe que en ninguna parte se puede observar un cielo estrellado más impresionante que al medio de la nada. Por supuesto también el desierto de Atacama ofrece las condiciones óptimas para la observación de las estrellas. Muchas instituciones de investigación internacionales de renombre han instalado sus observatorios aquí. Durante nuestra estadía se inauguró justamente el “Atacama Large Millimeter / submillimeter Array” (ALMA). El Observatorio ALMA observa en el cosmos realmente una luz que es invisible para el ojo humano. Observatorio ALMA: Los telescopios están situados más atrás en la meseta Pero no hay que preocuparse, incluso con un telescopio “normal” se garantiza una experiencia impresionante y fascinante. Nos dedicamos un atardecer a mirar las estrellas con Jorge mirando en el desierto de Atacama ¡ Qué vivencia mas impresionante e inolvidable ! ¡ Nunca habíamos visto tantas estrellas errantes en una noche! Además la noche fue también muy instructiva. Porque en el hemisferio sur hay otras estrellas en el cielo que en el norte. Luego Jorge también nos explicó donde se puede ver La cruz del sur (la constelación más pequeña, pero muy llamativa y conocida). Además, también pudimos reconocer las dos Nubes de Magallanes, los pequeños acompañantes de nuestra galaxia, de forma irregular. Cruz del Sur vista del desierto de Atacama Pero realmente emocionante fue cuando también pudimos ver a través del telescopio ¡¡ los anillos de Saturno y las lunas de Neptuno !! Varias veces tuvimos que frotarnos los ojos … Pero la sensación no estaba influenciada por el alcohol o las drogas! No, ¡ A través del pequeño telescopio portátil de Jorge los anillos eran realmente visibles ! ¡ Literalmente “celestial” e impresionante ! ## Fascinaciòn Atacama – el desierto màs seco en el norte de Chile Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/desierto-atacama Es considerado el desierto más seco del mundo, pero ese hecho no impresiona aun (de hecho, todos los desiertos son secos. ¿ O no ?). Si uno ha explorado entonces el desierto de Atacama en todas sus facetas, queda fascinado entre todas las formas extrañas y paisajes impresionantes … Después que nos habíamos recuperado un poco de las emociones alternadas en Patagonia nos esperaba el siguiente punto culminante para nosotros; el Desierto de Atacama en el norte de Chile ! Camino de grava en el desierto de Atacama El desierto de Atacama está situado en la costa del Pacífico en América del Sur y se extiende desde la frontera con Perú en el norte a las fronteras con Bolivia y Argentina, al oeste. Aunque los cambios de clima el año pasado (2012) provocaron grandes inundaciones, hay lugares donde no se han registrado lluvias por décadas! El desierto de Atacama visto desde el avión Una vez más plenos de expectativas y ganas de conocer aterrizamos entonces en este horno ardiente, en forma precisa, en la ciudad minera de Calama . Mientras que en la Patagonia podíamos practicar nuestras propias habilidades para los rallys, en el norte de Chile nos dejamos atender por un guía de nuestro elegante hospedaje, el Awasi Hotel. ¿ Quién quiere perderse en el desierto más árido del mundo ? Y finalmente ya habíamos cambiado suficientes neumáticos … Awasi Guide Jorge con Walter Nuestro guía Jorge es el buen humor en persona. Creció en Calama y parece conocer el desierto como su propio bolsillo. Así no es de extrañar que de vez en cuando sale con su “doble cabina” 4×4 tipo pick-up de la carretera principal a la ciudad oasis San Pedro de Atacama, para mostrarnos panoramas únicos en el desierto. Puesta de sol con el volcán Licancabur San Pedro de Atacama es una aldea de 2.000 habitantes y se encuentra a unos 2.400 m sobre el nivel del mar. Es el punto de partida a muchos lugares de interés turístico en el desierto y está rodeada de varios volcanes. El más llamativo es el Licancabur que se alza a elevados 5’916 metros y se puede ver una y otra vez desde diferentes ángulos. Ciudad oasis San Pedro de Atacama con el volcán Licancabur Alojamientos en San Pedro de Atacama Como ya se mencionó, no dejamos nada de lado en el desierto de Atacama y nos quedamos dos días bien atendidos en el Hotel de lujo Awasi de Relais & Chateaux. Restaurante del hotel de lujo Awasi Podemos recomendar otro hotel fantásticamente hermoso y elegante donde pasamos dos días más, es la Alto Atacama Lodge. Hotel moderno Alto Atacama ¡ El desierto de Atacama ofrece atracciones en abundancia y asegura un viaje inolvidable ! Más impresiones se puede encontrar en esta lista ademas de comentarios sobre zorros andinos, flamencos o vicuñas. Y aquí publicamos una breve reseña de las 6 excursiones mas impresionantes en el desierto: ## El anhelo Patagonia – Torres del Paine, Glaciar Perito Moreno y pistas de tierra sin fin Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/patagonia-torres-del-paine-glaciar-perito-moreno Volamos a la Patagonia! Sí, LA Patagonia! Mencionada con emoción. De la que todos hablan con tanto anhelo. Esto, por supuesto despierta expectativas y estamos correspondientemente tensos como una cuerda para colgar la ropa por lo que nos espera en el fin del mundo. Como medida de precaución, alquilamos un jeep 4×4. Allí debe haber algunos caminos sin pavimentar y también caminos de grava. Ropa de abrigo habíamos empaquetado bastante, aunque allí será verano. Está situada bastante lejos al sur, nunca se sabe … Así plenos de expectación, viajamos desde Zurich invernal con SWISS via Sao Paulo a Santiago de Chile para mirar “la cosa” con los propios ojos. Llegada a Punta Arenas Desde el verano en Santiago de Chile volamos puntualmente en dirección a Punta Arenas, donde no mucho más tarde aterrizamos en el lluvioso y frío sur de Chile. ¡ Phuh, qué desengaño esta acogida! Punta Arenas parece en realidad estar de alguna manera en el fin del mundo. ¿O es “normal” que allí reine una especie de ambiente de acabo de mundo? Patagonia en ambiente de acabo de mundo Después que hemos recibido nuestro Jeep 4×4, nos ponemos en camino a través de la planicie sin atractivo hacia Puerto Natales. A través de mucha estepa y mucho … de nada. Siempre en línea recta, justo a punto de caer en un estado de letargo, porque el camino se convierte gradualmente en una cinta transportadora de asfalto. Camino monótono en la Patagonia De vez en cuando divisamos casas solitarias, o cabañas. ¿ Si alguien aquí se siente realmente en su casa? ¿Qué hacen aquí todo el día o incluso una semana entera. Por no decir todo el mes? … Casa aislada en Patagonia Pero tal vez es sólo el tiempo que hace que todo parezca tan desolado y lúgubre. Más y más decepcionados por la primera “recepción” en Patagonia seguimos camino en la carretera solitaria que para nuestra consternación, se llama incluso “Ruta del fin del mundo”. Bueno, entonces … por lo menos una vez ¡una carretera que merece su nombre! Ruta Fin del Mundo, el nombre lo dice todo … Parada en Puerto Natales Llegamos todavía con algo de ilusiones a Puerto Natales – ¡Qué nombre prometedor! (Aunque también “Punta Arenas” sonaba mejor de lo que era después …) El pueblo es el punto de partida típico para las expediciones al tan mencionado Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. El pueblo dormido – ¿O es hoy justo domingo? – nos parece consistir en un conjunto disperso de pequeñas casas de madera, coloridas con un pequeño centro dispuesto como un tablero de ajedrez con sus muchas calles de sentido único. Quien haya estado en Nueva York, sabe lo que quiero decir, pero completamente diferente … Por todas partes hay agencias turísticas y tiendas de equipo al aire libre. Fuera de eso Puerto Natales no ofrece mucho. Barco de pesca aislado poco antes del fin del mundo En todo caso, al límite de la aldea existe el Remota, un hotel moderno , que arquitectónicamente se destaca del paisaje estepario en forma espectacular … El informe detallado sobre el extraordinario Hotel Remota se puede encontrar en nuestro blog de viajes en inglés, los precios y la disponibilidad del Hotel Remota Puerto Natales se pueden encontrar aquí. Moderno Hotel Remota en el fin del mundo en Puerto Natales Después de nuestra primera noche en la Patagonia a la mañana siguiente nos sonríe, por primera vez el sol en el rostro. Plenos de expectativas emprendemos el viaje hacia el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. El jeep 4×4 lo habíamos elegido deliberadamente, pero que ya al salir de Puerto Natales no encontraríamos caminos pavimentados, nos sorprendió bastante. Son todavía algunos cientos de kilómetros hasta el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine … Patagonia Campo en el Lago del Toro Después de un “movido” viaje por las pistas de grava llenas de baches llegamos al Lago del Toro Patagonia Camp, donde pasamos dos noches en Yurten al lado del lago. Lentamente va mejorando ;-) Campamento de Yurten del Patagonia Camps en el Lago del Toro Pero cuando vamos con el guía del Camps de la Patagonia en la furgoneta del hotel en una excursión, nos sentimos algo inseguros … orgulloso y patriótico rastaman Rodrigo menciona TODO lo que vemos: cipréses (menos de dos metros y el chofer frena, para que podamos ver bien), Chimango-Caracaras (una especie de halcón Piepmaz, apenas más grande que un cuervo). La mayor impresión la causan algunos guanacos, que vemos de vez en cuando y un Ñandu una especie de pequeña avestruz, es ya un punto culminante de alta calidad! Los especialistas de aves en la furgoneta están ensimismados. El Ñandú común se inclinó en la estepa patagónica Poco a poco nos domina la decepción: La Patagonia es sobrevalorada … También podríamos haber ido al Grison en Suiza, nos hubiera gustado mas. Pero entonces – Parque Nacional Torres del Paine Pero entonces, de repente – como si el buen Dios, el Creador del paraíso Patagonia, nos hubiera escuchado – va de sorpresa en sorpresa: A medida que nos adentramos en el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, se percibe una impresión grandiosa. El paisaje es salvaje, áspero y algo místico. Un Cóndor volando bajo pasa zumbando al lado de nuestra furgoneta. Detras de la curva siguiente surgen elevados majestuosamente los Cuernos del macizo del Paine. Simplemente nos quedamos mudos y nos miramos con ojos grandes … Cuernos del Paine Torres del Paine National Park Y a medida que nos acercamos al Lago Gray, quedamos impresionados por las extrañas formaciones de hielo azul profundo, que flotan como fantasmas y que se han desprendido un par de meses antes del glaciar Gray. Montañas de hielo en el Lago Gray en el parque nacional Torres del Paine El Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, que fue declarado patrimonio de la humanidad por la UNESCO, promete panoramas impresionantes, glaciares, ríos, lagos, bosques y … bueno, admitámoslo, también una rica variedad de aves. Cuernos del Paine en el Lago de Toro Una palabra de advertencia: El Parque Nacional Torres del Paine es muy extenso. Si se quiere cruzarlo en dirección a Argentina, como nosotros, es esencial abastecerse al máximo de combustible en Puerto Natales. Dependiendo de la capacidad del tanque y del consumo de combustible del coche, alcanza apenas hasta el otro extremo en la frontera con Argentina. Con una gran sensación de alivio se divisa una gasolinera grande y bonita. No es de asombrarse que al cruzar la frontera con el coche haya bastante papeleo y que pagar una tarifa considerable. Y además una nota manuscrita de los funcionarios de fronteras en el folleto de la transferencia. Al salir de Buenos Airesse controla una huella digital y un retrato Webcam. Como comparan la nota manuscrita de las pampas con los datos de alta tecnología de la capital, no logramos imaginarnos … De todos modos, superado el infierno de grava y la guerra de papel, en Argentina, se toma un camino pavimentado, que no se encuentra en Google Maps, se disfruta la monótona carretera a El Calafate en Argentina, donde se llega después de 8 horas de la salida en Patagonia Camp. Phuh, logrado! Por ahora, lo primero descansar con las piernas elevadas… El Calafate, Eolo y el glaciar Perito Moreno Glaciar Perito Moreno visto desde los balcones El punto más destacado de la Patagonia fue el Mini-trekking sobre el glaciar Perito Moreno, lo que hemos comentado en nuestro blog de viajes en inglés. Mediante utensilios de escalador subimos espectacularmente sobre el glaciar. Glaciar Perito Moreno resquebrajado cerca de El Calafate Al glaciar Perito Moreno se puede llegar regularmente por El Calafate y el Relais & Châteaux Hotel de lujo Eolo “Patagonia Spirit”. Eolo “Patagonia Spirit” Hotel de lujo Sus habitaciones y restaurante tienen vista por todos los lados a un paisaje de pastizales espectacular. El lugar parece a pesar de o a causa de su lejanía muy inspirador y si hay buen tiempo de nuevo una visión clara de las Torres del Paine. Vista desde el Eolo Hotel a las montañas de los Andesn Esto en cuanto al tema “sobre estimación”… la Patagonia puede parecer monótona a primera vista. Pero si uno consume cientos de kilómetros de caminos de grava con el pedal del acelerador y avanza hasta el núcleo de la enorme zona de paisajes, ¡ las vistas se revelan en magnitud colosal! Quedamos encantados y ya con anhelos de volver a las extensiones relajantes y majestuosas montañas de los Andes. ## Relais & Châteaux Gourmet Festival at the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/relais-chateaux-gourmet-festival-in-lain-hotel-cadonau A 60th birthday deserves to be celebrated! The exclusive hotel association Relais & Châteaux shares the sentiment and launches its first Gourmet Festival in Switzerland. We went to the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau to partake of the diamond jubilee menu. Watch this… Relais & Châteaux Gourmet Festival Relais & Châteaux pulls out all the stops to celebrate its 60th birthday – not just for a day, but better yet all year long in different venues worldwide. To celebrate the jubilee, Relais & Châteaux cooked up the Gourmet Festival. This made sense, since the gourmet restaurants and hotels that belong to the association all lay claim to high gastronomic distinction. In Switzerland, the Gourmet Festival stops in a number of member properties. The Grands Chefs from each of two renowned properties together with their teams regale a small gathering of guests with culinary delicacies. The events take place all year round in diverse member properties in Switzerland and Liechtenstein. On July 19th, it was the turn of the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau in the Engadin. Host and Grand Chef Dario Cadonau held court, joined by guest Chef Heribert Dietrich from the Walserhof in Klosters. These gifted chefs gave their all to conjure up one culinary delight after another on their guests’ plates – paired with the choicest of wines, naturally… Grand Chef Dario Cadonau and guest Chef Heribert Dietrich at the Gourmet Festival in Brail Both gourmet chefs are each proud holders of 15 Gault Millau points and 1 Michelin star. These two have met their equal in each other! Imagine that a Relais & Châteaux-style Gourmet Festival goes something like this: IN LAIN Relais & Châteaux gourmet festival wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("ir2oq626pg", { videoFoam: true }); Starters The guests at this gourmet event were greeted in the comfortable lounge, where they were also served the aperitif: A millefeuille with melon and goat cheese, quail with onion, and ham on home-baked bread, accompanied by Pommery champagne. This starter at once made a promise and made you “wish for more”… Pommery champagne and seductive amuse bouches The jubilee menu that followed was served in the Restaurant VIVANDA. The IN LAIN Hotel’s comfortable upscale gourmet restaurant is in the hotel’s main building, an Engadin house dating back 450 years. No sooner had we taken our places at table, mini buns enhanced by diverse condiments made the rounds, including curry and black sesame, tomatoes with a dusting of mozzarella or pumpkin seeds. Served on a hot stone! How ‘cool’ is that? Pumpkin seed bun, curry bun and tomato bun with mozzarella dust A basil brioche quaintly served in a ramekin-like little flower pot complemented the mini bun trilogy. For seasoning to taste, there were Italian olive oil, butter and variety of salts. Really special was the salt mixed with Tasmanian pepper! This is Grand Chef Dario Cadonau’s preferred pepper… The Jubilee Menu The first course was all about Alpine salmon: Heribert Dietrich presented a marinated, smoked Arctic char poached in olive oil on absinthe ice cream. What made it really special on top of the flavor combination was the temperature contrast. Cool ice cream with the warm fish… unexpectedly heavenly! Alpine salmon: Warm Arctic char with cold absinthe ice cream Dario Cadonau’s first course was a marinated sea bream with tomato marmalade, dried olives, pesto cream, tomato foam and tomato ice cream. A dish with Mediterranean flair high up in the Engadin Mountains. Marinated sea bream with tomato marmalade, dried olives, pesto cream, tomato foam and tomato ice cream Next appeared tepid smoked sturgeon from the Bernese Oberland, served with mashed mountain potatoes, an egg yolk poached in olive oil (is that what makes it so red?) and OONA caviar. Heribert Dietrich swears by the distinctive taste of the mountain potato that these days is only cultivated in small quantities. And, yes, the “mini mashed potatoes” unleashed a mountain of taste! Smoked sturgeon from the Bernese Highlands A cup of frothy cream soup made from the purple haze carrot and calf’s head praline provided a brief interlude before the ricotta tortellini with eggplant caviar, chive beurre blanc and phyllo pastry chip materialized on our table. Ricotta tortellini with eggplant caviar The main course, a tender Angus filet on red pepper purée with jacket potatoes, celery and artichokes tasted out of this world! Wonderfully tender Angus filet on red pepper purée The two gourmet chefs had also planned something exquisite for dessert; Dietrich had a fluffy cheese dumpling on strawberry-mezereon compote and sour cream ice cream prepared. Cheese dumpling on strawberry-mezereon compote and sour cream ice cream Cadonau opted for an inspired chocolate space ball made with chocolate mousse, ganache, ice cream, brownies and beaten egg white. Just thinking of the brittle makes our tongues tingle today still! Or in our memory, at least… A slightly “spaced out” dessert with chocolate to spare We ended the day where it had started, in the comfortable bar lounge with fireplace. With the coffee we enjoyed a noble, 60-year old port and friandises artistically arranged in a “flower box” with lemon marshmallows, praliné in cherry blossom, almond cookie and summer punch. How original! Davidoff supplied the fine smoke to round it all out. Friandises in the “flowerbox” What a flowery denouement for this wonderful evening! The world class gourmet menu with its daring contrasts held many delightful surprises in store for us. Heartiest congratulations to the two Grands Chefs Dario Cadonau und Heribert Dietrich, both of whom have been elected to “Young Restaurateurs of Switzerland.” Incidentally, on September 7, 2014 the next Gourmet Festival takes place in the Walserhof with Heribert Dietrich in Klosters. The guest chef will be – surprise, surprise – his colleague Dario Cadonau from IN LAIN… The wine pairing Stefan Huwiler of the wine dealership Valentin Wine designed the wine pairings. Between courses, he explained the terroir and characteristics of his wines. For the appetizers, he decanted a Sauvignon Blanc from the Trentino (South Tyrol), followed by a French Côte d’Or chardonnay from Burgundy. He transitioned us to the red wine with a red from the Bündner Herrschaft, a Fläscher Pinot Noir Reserve, aged 12 months in the oak barrel, with a complex bouquet and subtle toasty aromas. Whites and reds from the wine degustation For the main course, Stefan Huwiler selected a Sassella San Lorenzo, Valtellina Superiore from the Veltlin. With its bouquet of cherries, dried fruits and cloves it harmoniously complemented the Angus filet. Sassella San Lorenzo, Valtellina Superiore from the Veltlin Dessert was sweetened with a Moscato d’Asti from the Piedmont. The Gourmet Festival was a first rate experience with many impressions gathered and a wonderful atmosphere – absolutely worth recommending! Cheese cellar next to Restaurant Vivanda The IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau After such a sense-beguiling gourmet evening, it was impossible to drive anywhere. And so we used the occasion to overnight in the hotel and the next day to poke around this charming boutique hotel managed by Tamara and Dario Cadonau. Here are a few images of what we found: Our thanks go to… Warm thanks to Tamara and Dario Cadonau for the generous invitation and to their entire team for their hospitality! Also deserving praise is the alert service team, for their always friendly and attentive table magic and their charming ripostes to my tired jokes. Many thanks also to Sabine Biedermann of PrimCom for brokering this stay! Spectacular! ## The Alpina Gstaad – Alpine Hotel Experience at the Highest Level Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/the-alpina-gstaad-alpine-hotel-experience Above Gstaad in the Bernese Oberland stands the elegant boutique hotel The Alpina Gstaad. With its 20,000 m2(!) of park-like grounds, luxurious premises and rooms, three extraordinary restaurants, a spa with indoor and outdoor pools and breathtaking view this establishment offers an Alpine hotel encounter of the superior kind! This is how we tested it… Legendary Gstaad Just the approach through the picturesque Saanenland in Switzerland’s Bernese Highlands is an experience all of its own: Life in all its facets here is still idyllic and authentic; Simmental cows graze on the pastures, the Swiss flag flies from the front of wooden houses and laundry hung out to dry flutters from the clotheslines. Chalets in Gstaad and “laundry hung out to dry” Those in the know take the GoldenPass panorama train to here. In the company of troops of Japanese tourists taking pictures, the Saanenland couldn’t be MORE beautiful! No sooner arrived in the chic and car-free Gstaad, you realize once again why the chalet village enjoys international renown: With its pretty luxury chalets and elegant shopping mile it could be a scene out of a picture book. Flagship brand names vie brilliantly from the discreet chalet shops. Because of the compact length of the “Gstaad Promenade” shopping mile, even the likes of Prada or Hermés must be content to hang out their shop signs on side streets… Still, Prada and Hermés are on the street leading to the Gstaad Palace. Also not bad! Especially, since this Palacestrasse after one more curve turns into Alpinastrasse. The interested reader knows what lies ahead… The Alpina Gstaad Boutique Hotel Unexpectedly, said Alpinastrasse then heads into a “tunnel“: It was part of the original plan to let the hotel grounds Alpina Gstaad be experienced as a park by not running an access road through them. Instead, a covered drive takes you directly to the spacious drive-up area and the hotel’s «Galerie Entrée» main entrance, its artistry heightened by a water wall. Unusual approach drive to The Alpina Gstaad No sooner do we pull up in the car, and already the friendly doorman Nevelin Prodanov waves welcome into our GoPro camera ;-) On entering the lobby of the boutique hotel you can’t help staring around in wonderment. You try not to show it of course; after all, this isn’t the first time you’ve slept away from home – but it really is impressive: Color-coordinated flower arrangements, not small; ornate paintings, quite evocative; noble materials and a lot of wood grace the interior and make it a total work of art. Stylish entrance area with staircase to salon, bar and restaurants But when you catch sight of the hover board that just happens to be there, it’s logical to briefly lose your composure. Insanity! For anyone not quite up to speed on this point: They brought us the hover board in “Back to the Future.” You know – the wheel-less skateboard that hovers instead? Well, whatever: At some point you do regain your composure. On with the text! I should probably not let myself be distracted so easily… Wood plays a key role in staging the alpine chic throughout the hotel. This mostly involves the artful use of recycled pine wood boards that formerly adorned ancient Swiss farm houses – a perfect symbiosis of Swiss tradition and discreet luxury. This way to the piano bar and the two restaurants Delicacies in the “Sommet” or “Megu” restaurants Expect to be served meals of the highest standard in The Alpina Gstaad – be it in the Sommet gourmet restaurant (18 Gault Millau points, 1 Michelin star) or in the MEGU Japanese restaurant (16 Gault Millau points). In addition, during the winter season the Swiss Stübli serves traditional Swiss cuisine. Entrance to the exclusive MEGU Restaurant It bears mentioning that MEGU is the first European foothold of the successful New York gourmet concept. The Japanese restaurant was an instant hit on the Gstaad scene, and it has ushered in a new culinary era in the tranquil Bernese Highlands. Demand is correspondingly high. Depending on the season, be sure to book well in advance if you want a taste of this exclusivity! Star chef Marcus G. Lindner as executive chef is in charge of guest gastronomic wellbeing. The eloquent Austrian is known for combining supposedly incompatible aromas and ingredients with precision and sensitivity. We were keen with anticipation… Top Chef Marcus G. Lindner in front of his Sommet Restaurant(18 Gault Millau points and 1 Michelin star) We started in on the brilliant menu they served us in the Sommet Restaurant with an amuse bouche of salmon on carrot puree with orange zest. Amuse bouche of salmon on carrot puree with orange zest Then came the first (of three!) appetizers, Coho salmon on cream cheese, cucumber and wasabi. Particularly the “meringue wasabi sticks” (what a combination!) not only had a surprising and unfamiliar effect visually but on the palate as well. Coho salmon with cream cheese, cucumber, and meringue wasabi sticks What a promising beginning… Then on it went: pork belly cubes on lobster (say again?!) with pumpkin and saffron. The subtle lime taste rarefied with soy sauce rounded it out exquisitely. Another surprise! Pork belly on lobster with pumpkin and saffron Pigeon on a bed of chanterelles and drizzled with blueberry jus served as entrée before the main course. This, too, we had never tasted before… For the main act, Marcus G. Lindner had decided on a veal tenderloin, seconded by asparagus, morel, and spinach. The meat had a buttery tenderness and the vegetables were crispy-soft. No idea really how to describe it any better. In any event, the taste was exceptional! Veal tenderloin with asparagus, morel, and spinach When they served us a Pistachio crème brulée with caramelized banana and lemon sherbet, we exulted over the fine dessert. As it turned out, this was revealed to be only a “pre-dessert,” to get us in the mood for the “main dessert course: a lime sorbet with raspberries and elderberry gelée. Delicious! Lime sorbet with raspberries and elderberry gelée Words fail at this point… Maybe just a few are left: each menu course was accompanied by the right wines as poured and professionally expounded on by sommelier Luca Padovani. And one more thing: The exquisite menu is served with outstanding service! Friendly, attentive and personable describes the team that revolves around Chef de Service Franco Paloschi in the pleasant restaurant ambiance. But caution is advisable: no detail escapes this man, and he has a different story for every table! If need be, he will get down on one knee before the lady of the table to “sell” us the New Zealand Pinot Blanc for a Swiss one. What a performance! That they were able to entice him to The Alpina Gstaad is a masterly, unparalleled coup: Along with the hotel, the restaurants and all the other amenities, Franco Paloschi alone is worth “the price of admission”! The amount of stories he dished out in several languages was simply unbelievable… We preferred to parley Italian with him, but could just as easily have chosen any number of other languages. The incredible Chef de Service Franco Paloschi standing by the “Pavarotti chair” Anyone who cares to indulge in a cigar after such a fantastic gourmet menu can dot that “i” in the Havana-themed Smokers Lounge. A chance to choose from more than 50 cigar types is sure to make any cigar aficionado’s heart beat faster. Especially in the company of a charming gorilla… “Black Smoke,” painting by Roy Nachum in the Smokers Lounge Rooms and Suites The 56 individual rooms and suites embody the chalet charm of the Saanenland. Plain fir wood covers the walls and on the ceilings classical carvings capture the attention. Living room with fireplace in the Junior Suite Swiss chalet style wardrobes and trunks also add to the homey atmosphere of the rooms, while noble materials, leather, and earth color natural tones impart elegance. Red color accents lend the rooms that certain extra touch. Chaise lounge with red accents Just about everything in the room is operated from a single control panel: Lights, curtains, sun blinds and…even the fire in the fire place can be ignited at the touch of a button. Like James Bond… Doesn’t he also live in the area? From the large balconies and decks you enjoy a direct view of the superbly landscaped and cared-for garden with pool area. Beyond, the vista extends far past Gstaad to the splendid Bernese Oberland Alpine panorama. Provided the weather is good. Garden with heated pool While we are on the subject of panorama…the hotel’s most luxurious suite is located on the top floor; its evocative name Panorama Suite is suggested by the view. Okay, for this you need to have enough “pocket change” on you. But then here we go: Living room area in the Panorama Suite The Panorama Suite features an impressive 400(!) square meters with a large living room area, three bedrooms, a private fitness room, its own spa on the top floor with fireplace, hamam steam bath, sauna and Jacuzzi on the deck. And a few other small details like that. Any other questions? Panorama Suite bathroom with freestanding bathtub The giant Grohe rain shower can conveniently be used together with the shower. This is one place where the usual either-or does not apply… Six Senses Spa The 2,000 m2 Six Senses Spa unites both Alpine and Asian ambiance in an unpretentious aesthetic. Beside five luxurious treatment rooms, ensuring the utmost in modern spa comfort are: a hamam steam bath, a flotation room, a color therapy and Ayurveda room, an Oriental treatment room, a Himalayan salt grotto, a detox room and relaxation areas. Pool in the Six Senses Spa Available in the spa are various body treatments, aromatherapy massages, fitness, rejuvenation, and detox programs and it offers weight reduction as well as acupuncture, chi gong and tai chi. There is also a mountain detox program… Well, how could you possibly not leave here in better shape? Especially, since the food by the way – in spite of the numerous courses – is astonishingly light! The only drawback perhaps is that the wet area is segregated by men and women. Perhaps a concession to Arab guests? The spa also includes an indoor pool, an outside pool in the garden, two whirlpools and a yoga studio. Oh, yes, there would of course also have to be a modern fitness room. But we didn’t want to overdo it during our short stay ;-) Hotel Management The Alpina Gstaad Hotel is managed by hotel director Eric Favre who has more than thirty years’ experience in the hotel business. He discreetly remains in the background in the public areas of the hotel and cultivates contact with his guests in his charming French accent. He may have grown up in the neighboring Château d’Oex, but he is a star hotelier to the core: Eric Favre, besides having managed Kempinski Hotels, also managed the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok that was ranked the best hotel in the world for ten years running … Walter and hotel director Eric Favre This five star luxury hotel opened its doors in December, 2012 and has already been singled out for numerous awards. These include, among others, having been chosen by Gault Millau Switzerland as the «Hotel of the Year» 2013 and, with the GALA SPA AWARD, it was named «Best Luxury Hotel – City/Resort». The hotel is a member of the Preferred Hotel Group as well as the exclusive travel network Virtuoso. If you insist on finding out more about prices and availability you will find the relevant information here. Our thanks go to… “Merci beaucoup” to Eric Favre, director of The Alpina Gstaad Hotel for the generous invitation! A big thank you also to Esther Beck, owner of ESTHER BECK PR for coordinating the visit and to Jenny Dean, Marketing & Sales Executive, for the very informative tour of the hotel. Also, the highly personable Chef de Service Franco Paloschi and his team are due a big “Grazie mille”! And last but not least, we owe our thanks to doorman Nevelin Prodanov: He supported us in word and deed during our filming. He also did the stunt with our Audi pulling up to the hotel ;-) Address The Alpina Gstaad, Alpinastrasse 23, 3780 Gstaad, Switzerland Phone: +41 (0)33 888 98 88 ## Boutique Hotel Palafitte – Living on Stilts on Lake Neuchâtel Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/boutique-hotel-palafitte-lake-neuchatel Sitting above the water by the shore of Lake Neuchâtel is a lake-dwelling settlement for our times: Hotel Palafitte here celebrates exclusive Riviera excellence of the highest level. Be prepared for something like this: Situated at slight remove from the outskirts of Neuchâtel is the five star boutique Hotel Palafitte. Half of its room-pavilions stand on stilts in the lake, the other half on the shore raised slightly above and behind them. Overlooking it all is the reception and the light-filled restaurant with sun deck. A promising start, I’d say… Even more so, since the restaurant has come up a notch both in service and in the kitchen since our last visit, and now its «La Table de Palafitte» restaurant has hit full stride, living up to its 13 Gault Millau points . Bon appétit! Terrace and evening lighting of the hotel restaurant Sea bass on freshly pressed potato stock Benches and tables nestle between the pavilions overlooking the lake and the spindly green rods planted in it that remind of waving reeds. If they seem familiar, it is because you have seen them either in Wangen on the Aare River or possibly when they were deployed at Expo.02 . Green plastic rods from Expo.02 Seen from outside, the cubical pavilions look relatively small. Inside, however, the hotel rooms are revealed as miracles of space planning, with refined interior perspectives and vistas of the outside : The bathroom is separated from the rest of the room by rotatable vertical panels that help create a pervasive feeling of roominess when in the open position. The pavilions in the front row practically bring the lake inside, for they have transparent balconies with individual stairs leading down to the cool wet. Pavilion deck with direct access to the water Various large and small windows not only flood the rooms with light but also open up views under the pavilions on stilts (“palafittes”) and onto the lake. Even from the bathroom! “Bathroom with a view” A classic #musthave! Waschtisch und Lamellen des Badezimmers Begrüssungsdrink im Wohnzimmerbereich des Pavillons Offene Lamellen und Sprudelbad zwischen Badezimmer und Pavillon Dusche im Hotelzimmer mit Aussicht Wohnzimmerbereich des Pavillons The fragrant soaps and shower gels are by Bulgari ; appropriately enough, seeing that the brand has a store only a stone’s throw from the hotel up the road in Neuchâtel. It happens to deal in watches and jewelry, but for the guest not in the local know the shoe will fit anyway ;-) And that the shower heads are also equipped with with red and blue color LEDs to get one going in the morning just adds that much more to the spectacular accommodations. That is, unless you already went for a quick dip in the lake before breakfast. Wow, I don’t think I have ever been that wide awake! Early morning idyll Be that as it may, whether by way of the lake or a shower, sooner or later you will make your way past the sumptuous breakfast buffet on the expansive breakfast terrace . Breakfasting to a splendid view Tischgedeck auf der Restaurantterrasse Sonnenaufgang über den Pavillons im See Schwan vor der Spiegelung des Palafitte Pavillons Schwäne auf dem Neuenburgersee vor dem Hotel Palafitte Sonnenaufgang über den Pavillons im See Storch-Skulptur im Morgengrauen Hotelrestaurant in Abendbeleuchtung Vierer Ruderboot vor einem Palafitte Hotelpavillon Spiegelung der Hotelfassade im Neuenburgersee Tischgedeck des Hotelrestaurants mit Serviettenhaltern Terrasse des Hotelrestaurants im Morgengrauen Palafitte Pfahlbau Hotel im Neuenburgersee Zimmer-Pavillons auf der Landseite in der Morgensonne 5-Stern Hotellogo des Palafittes vor dem Neuenburgersee Weisser Bentley vor dem Hotellogo Anyone who has to have the #must have, will inquire into room availability here. A round of golf at the Neuchâtel Golf & Country Club When you’ve had enough of paradise, you simply take off for the nearby Neuchâtel golf course. It will quickly enough help you snap out of your paradisical reveries. Sure, the course lies in a picturesque setting among the Jura hills and, when freshly mowed, the grass is more pristine than an English soccer pitch – but that does not guarantee that the balls will also sail like a dream over the terrain… Beautifully laid out, view of the Lake Neuchâtel included! Anyway, it’s worth a try…for the place is nothing less than idyllic: Typische Omega Uhr beim Abschlag 1 Empfangsgebäude des Golfplatzes Neuenburg Golfplatz-Review Baumgesäumter Fairway Golfturnier des Palafitte Hotels Our thanks go to… We warmly thank Yves Chavaillaz, manager of the Hotel Palafittes for the generous invitation and Manuela Weber of CinnamonCircle for arranging this stay! A “Merci beaucoup” also to François Dussart , managing director of the Beau Rivage Palace Lausanne, and to Alessandra Hemmeler his head of PR. We could enjoy this wonderful sojourn thanks to their efforts. Address Hotel Palafitte, Route des Gouttes-d’Or 2, 2008 Neuchâtel, Switzerland Phone: +41 (0)32 723 02 02 ## Loft feeling in Hamburg: Gastwerk Design Hotel in the historic Bahrenpark gaswork Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/loft-feeling-hamburg-gastwerk-design-hotel-historic-bahrenpark Hamburg’s first Design Hotel Gastwerk opened its doors in the year 2000 in a former gasworks in Bahrenpark. Where coal was once bunkered, guests today stay in a spacious loft building with spa, bar and restaurant… We took a look around at the invitation of Sales and Marketing Manager Stefan Pallasch… Ex-gasworks coal depot and animal feed factory Reading lamps in the hotel atrium The former gasworks helped light up west Hamburg’s streets and houses for the first time around the year 1890. After its restoration as a brick-and-steel industrial monument, it metamorphosed into the Gastwerk, Hamburg‘s first Design Hotel. Couch and floor lamp in the Gastwerk The structure’s brick atrium, 600 m2 of light-immersed space, helps create the hotel’s unique loft character that has helped make the Gastwerk a premier address among the city’s hotels since opening nearly 15 years ago. Conference table in the hotel atrium Everywhere you turn in the Gastwerk, a registered historical landmark, there are reminders of the building’s changeful history: Initially used as the gasworks coal bunker, the majestic hall was next occupied by a feed factory that is still evoked today by the antique milling works transformed now into a bar in the Denk.mal conference room area. Denk.Mal Bar in the former feed factory’s milling works Hotel rooms, events area, restaurant, bar, and spa Today, the hotel boasts 141 rooms, lofts and suites, a variably-configurable conference and events area, the Mangold Restaurant, the L.Bar and the Gastwerk SPA. Entrance to spa area The spa quiet zone In the spacious guest rooms you can run your fingers over the old brickwalls. Some of the windows are set unusually low to the floor, accentuating the loft experience and the reuse concept. Writing desk in the Corner Suite Hotel bed in double room For events there is a sizeable conference area with its own Denk.Mal Bar, a lounge, and conference room with large skylight. Conference room with skylight The hotel’s Mangold Restaurant with its luxe atmosphere is very popular. The Parmesan soup with Jaipur curry and sesame beef as well as the Zander filet on horseradish pickles tasted out of this world! The hotel‘s Mangold Restaurant Zander grilled with skin on, served with horseradish pickles After your repast, stroll into the L.BAR or the adjacent lounge – these are truly numerous – to enjoy one of the many grappa varieties or other pleasurable kind of firewater. LBAR hotel bar The L.BAR lounge’s bookshelf Artist in residence Georgios Engonidis Like most Design Hotels, the Gastwerk accents the property with many design objects, like paintings, photographs or sculptures. Portrait study by artist in residence Georgios Engonidis They are fortunate here to have available in the person of Georgios Engonidis a dedicated, talented artist in residence with a studio in the hotel. And he, in turn, of course has the good fortune to have an innovative and openminded patron. Georgios Engonidis in his hotel studio Inspired by visionary hotelier Kai Hollmann, designed and implemented by Regine Schwethelm, Sibylle von Heyden and Armin Fischer, the Gastwerk was conceived as a fascinating symbiosis of rough, utilitarian structure and elegant contemporary hotel design. Warm thanks to Stefan Pallasch for the kind invitation and tour of the extensive property! Sales and Marketing Manager Stefan Pallasch in the hotel atrium Check rates and availability here. The Gastwerk Design Hotel is a member of designhotels.com, a handpicked collection of only 200 hotels worldwide. By the way, one of them is 25hours Number One (that we previously reported on), another Design Hotel that is located a stone’s throw from the Gastwerk in the same Bahrenpark area. The Bahrenpark location may not be super close to Hamburg’s centre, but the hotel is reached easily and quickly via public transit. ## A day hike around Vitznau and the Rigi-Scheidegg Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/day-hike-vitznau-rigi-scheidegg If you’re ok with taking public transit and want to treat yourself to an easy walking tour: Take the Mount Rigi cogwheel railway to grab a little sample of beautiful Lake Lucerne around Lucerne and Vitznau! Casino and Hotels Palace and Montana For the most convenient way from Zurich to beautiful Lucerne, take the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) train. Lucerne’s spectacular Culture and Convention Center (KKL) by the renowned French architect Jean Nouvel may be under renovation, but the scaffolding is said to have been specially designed to enhance the building. How’s that for an outstanding tourist attraction! Liner “Saphir” in front of the Concert and Congress Center KKL If you want to overnight in Lucerne because you want Jean Nouvel and nothing but Jean Nouvel, stay at The Hotel Each room is wallpapered with a different movie scene, and the restaurant is not to be missed! Anyone who needs a city view while bedded down at night or perhaps plans a bachelor party or a girls’ night out, look at what the Art Deco Hotel Montana has to offer. Montana Restaurant terrace with view of Lucerne After you’ve admired the Chapel Bridge and thrown away enough of your candy money on luxury watches, continue on by passenger ship to Vitznau. For those who are partial to noisy, shiny machines, we recommend the paddle steamers. It’s an out-of-the-ordinary experience, for youngsters of all ages! Passenger ship with flying Swiss flag at Lucerne There is plenty of time between Lucerne and Vitznau to imbibe a bottle of white wine and to fortify yourself with a plate of cold cuts. While thus engaged, pay special heed to the Japanese visitors and their photography habits. Amazing, all the things they can take pictures of ;-) You will have reached Vitznau when the newly renovated Park Hotel Vitznau heaves into view. Or else when they announce it on the loudspeaker. Park Hotel Vitznau on Lake Lucerne Here you deftly skip ashore, cross the forecourt and, before you know it, you’re sitting in the Rigi cogwheel train. It couldn’t be any more convenient… The docking station in Vitznau and entry to the cogwheel railway What the ride up the Rigi looks like from above is seen in this brief aerial video by Swissview. You’ll find more great images for purchase on DVD and Blu-Ray disc on Swissview’s website. R16_37_Vitznau_Rigi-Bahn wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("0jtxfd9hq2", { videoFoam: true }); If you’re not that keen on setting altitude records, skip a couple of stops and get off at the Rigi Cold Bath station. It offers anyone feeling a bit fatigued at this point a chance to recharge in the Mineral Baths & Spa Rigi Kaltbad, designed by Mario Botta, another star architect. Rigi Kaltbad First station For all the rest, this is where the actual hike begins. Although the trail along the incline starts out wide, it gradually does turn into an adventure (sort of…) But, really, it‘s a hike made without problems in jogging shoes. We even encountered a gentleman plodding bravely along in the flip-flops he apparently was unwilling to give up! Hiking in direction Rigi-Scheidegg The view of Lake Lucerne and Mount Bürgenstock is phenomenal! It may be old hat for us Swiss, but still, it is worth repeating – phenomenal ! Panorama with Lake Lucerne and Mount Bürgenstock Anyone made hungry by all that view can delight in an institution that’s common only to Switzerland: Self-service kiosks scattered around the great outdoors. In this case, apple cider and fresh cheese are on the menu, provided you serve yourself and drop the right change into the cash box. Where else on this planet would you encounter something like this? Unreal, these Swiss! Apple cider and cheese for on the way And of course, here it is not just the culinary set up that is special, but the view from this “restaurant” is really something else, too: You see Hohfluh out of the corner of your eye while you get the full-on view of Lake Lucerne. What more could you ask for? Or did you expect the bench you’re sitting on would maybe rotate on its axis? Bench with view of Hohfluh From here, it’s not far to the Rigi-Scheidegg summit station. Anyone still (or again) suffering hunger pangs will find here more chances for provisioning themselves. One thing is certain; no one will ever starve up here… Signpost by the Rigi-Scheidegg mountain station So, now that you’ve made it to the top of Europe – almost, anyway – the cable car will take you back down to civilization. Descend first to the Kräbel Valley Station (quite a name, that!) and from there take the cogwheel railway back to Goldau to catch the SBB train back to Zurich. Cogwheel railway going from Kräbel to Goldau And so endeth this little, low-degree-of-difficulty day trip. For this one, the double rope and crampons stay home, anyhow the ice ax. And, on a personal note, I lugged that bulky digital SLR around for nothing this time, because I took all the pictures with my new HTC One smartphone. Wouldn’t you know it … ## The Alpina Gstaad – in storytelling format Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/alpina-gstaad-hotel-storyform Above Gstaad in the Bernese Oberland stands the elegant boutique hotel The Alpina Gstaad. With its 20,000 m2(!) of park-like grounds, luxurious premises, three extraordinary restaurants, a spa with indoor and outdoor pools and breathtaking view this establishment offers an Alpine hotel encounter of the superior kind! Legendary Gstaad Just the approach through the picturesque Saanenland in Switzerland’s Bernese Highlands is an experience all of its own: Life in all its facets here is still idyllic and authentic; Simmental cows graze on the pastures, the Swiss flag flies from the front of wooden houses and laundry hung out to dry flutters from the clotheslines. Chalets in Gstaad and “laundry hung out to dry” GoldenPass panorama train Gstaad Those in the know take the GoldenPass panorama train to here. In the company of troops of Japanese tourists taking pictures, the Saanenland couldn’t be MORE beautiful! No sooner arrived in the chic and car-free Gstaad, you realize once again why the chalet village enjoys international renown: With its pretty luxury chalets and elegant shopping mile it could be a scene out of a picture book. Flagship brand names vie brilliantly from the discreet chalet shops. Because of the compact length of the “Gstaad Promenade” shopping mile, even the likes of Prada or Hermés must be content to hang out their shop signs on side streets… Still, Prada and Hermés are on the street leading to the Gstaad Palace. Also not bad! Especially, since this Palacestrasse after one more curve turns into Alpinastrasse. The interested reader knows what lies ahead… The Alpina Gstaad Boutique Hotel Unexpectedly, said Alpinastrasse then heads into a “tunnel“: It was part of the original plan to let the hotel grounds Alpina Gstaad be experienced as a park by not running an access road through them. Instead, a covered drive takes you directly to the spacious drive-up area and the hotel’s «Galerie Entrée» main entrance, its artistry heightened by a water wall. Unusual approach drive to The Alpina Gstaad No sooner do we pull up in the car, and already the friendly doorman Nevelin Prodanov waves welcome into our GoPro camera ;-) On entering the lobby of the boutique hotel you can’t help staring around in wonderment. You try not to show it of course; after all, this isn’t the first time you’ve slept away from home – but it really is impressive: Color-coordinated flower arrangements, not small; ornate paintings, quite evocative; noble materials and a lot of wood grace the interior and make it a total work of art. A hover board! How cool is that! But when you catch sight of the hover board that just happens to be there, it’s logical to briefly lose your composure. Insanity! For anyone not quite up to speed on this point: They brought us the hover board in “Back to the Future.” You know – the wheel-less skateboard that hovers instead? Well, whatever: At some point you do regain your composure. On with the text! I should probably not let myself be distracted so easily… Wood plays a key role in staging the alpine chic throughout the hotel. This mostly involves the artful use of recycled pine wood boards that formerly adorned ancient Swiss farm houses – a perfect symbiosis of Swiss tradition and discreet luxury. This way to the piano bar and the two restaurants https://travelmemo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Hotelreview-The-Alpina-Gstaad-reisememo-ch.mp4.mp4 Delicacies in the “Sommet” or “Megu” restaurants Expect to be served meals of the highest standard in The Alpina Gstaad – be it in the Sommet gourmet restaurant (18 Gault Millau points, 1 Michelin star) or in the MEGU Japanese restaurant (16 Gault Millau points). In addition, during the winter season the Swiss Stübli serves traditional Swiss cuisine. Entrance to the exclusive MEGU Restaurant It bears mentioning that MEGU is the first European foothold of the successful New York gourmet concept. The Japanese restaurant was an instant hit on the Gstaad scene, and it has ushered in a new culinary era in the tranquil Bernese Highlands. Demand is correspondingly high. Depending on the season, be sure to book well in advance if you want a taste of this exclusivity! Star chef Marcus G. Lindner as executive chef is in charge of guest gastronomic wellbeing. The eloquent Austrian is known for combining supposedly incompatible aromas and ingredients with precision and sensitivity. We were keen with anticipation… Top Chef Marcus G. Lindner in front of his Sommet Restaurant(18 Gault Millau points and 1 Michelin star) We started in on the brilliant menu they served us in the Sommet Restaurant with an amuse bouche of salmon on carrot puree with orange zest. Amuse bouche of salmon on carrot puree with orange zest Then came the first (of three!) appetizers, Coho salmon on cream cheese, cucumber and wasabi. Particularly the “meringue wasabi sticks” (what a combination!) not only had a surprising and unfamiliar effect visually but on the palate as well. Coho salmon with cream cheese, cucumber, and meringue wasabi sticks What a promising beginning… Then on it went: pork belly cubes on lobster (say again?!) with pumpkin and saffron. The subtle lime taste rarefied with soy sauce rounded it out exquisitely. Another surprise! Pork belly on lobster with pumpkin and saffron Pigeon on a bed of chanterelles and drizzled with blueberry jus served as entrée before the main course. This, too, we had never tasted before… For the main act, Marcus G. Lindner had decided on a veal tenderloin, seconded by asparagus, morel, and spinach. The meat had a buttery tenderness and the vegetables were crispy-soft. No idea really how to describe it any better. In any event, the taste was exceptional! Veal tenderloin with asparagus, morel, and spinach When they served us a Pistachio crème brulée with caramelized banana and lemon sherbet, we exulted over the fine dessert. As it turned out, this was revealed to be only a “pre-dessert,” to get us in the mood for the “main dessert course: a lime sorbet with raspberries and elderberry gelée. Delicious! Lime sorbet with raspberries and elderberry gelée Words fail at this point… Maybe just a few are left: each menu course was accompanied by the right wines as poured and professionally expounded on by sommelier Luca Padovani. And one more thing: The exquisite menu is served with outstanding service! Friendly, attentive and personable describes the team that revolves around Chef de Service Franco Paloschi in the pleasant restaurant ambiance. But caution is advisable: no detail escapes this man, and he has a different story for every table! If need be, he will get down on one knee before the lady of the table to “sell” us the New Zealand Pinot Blanc for a Swiss one. What a performance! That they were able to entice him to The Alpina Gstaad is a masterly, unparalleled coup: Along with the hotel, the restaurants and all the other amenities, Franco Paloschi alone is worth “the price of admission”! The amount of stories he dished out in several languages was simply unbelievable… We preferred to parley Italian with him, but could just as easily have chosen any number of other languages. The incredible Chef de Service Franco Paloschi standing by the “Pavarotti chair” Anyone who cares to indulge in a cigar after such a fantastic gourmet menu can dot that “i” in the Havana-themed Smokers Lounge. A chance to choose from more than 50 cigar types is sure to make any cigar aficionado’s heart beat faster. Especially in the company of a charming gorilla… “Black Smoke,” painting by Roy Nachum in the Smokers Lounge Rooms and Suites The 56 individual rooms and suites embody the chalet charm of the Saanenland. Plain fir wood covers the walls and on the ceilings classical carvings capture the attention. Living room with fireplace in the Junior Suite Swiss chalet style wardrobes and trunks also add to the homey atmosphere of the rooms, while noble materials, leather, and earth color natural tones impart elegance. Red color accents lend the rooms that certain extra touch. Chaise lounge with red accents Just about everything in the room is operated from a single control panel: Lights, curtains, sun blinds and…even the fire in the fire place can be ignited at the touch of a button. Like James Bond… Doesn’t he also live in the area? From the large balconies and decks you enjoy a direct view of the superbly landscaped and cared-for garden with pool area. Beyond, the vista extends far past Gstaad to the splendid Bernese Oberland Alpine panorama. Provided the weather is good. Garden with heated pool While we are on the subject of panorama…the hotel’s most luxurious suite is located on the top floor; its evocative name Panorama Suite is suggested by the view. Okay, for this you need to have enough “pocket change” on you. But then here we go: Living room area in the Panorama Suite The Panorama Suite features an impressive 400(!) square meters with a large living room area, three bedrooms, a private fitness room, its own spa on the top floor with fireplace, hamam steam bath, sauna and Jacuzzi on the deck. And a few other small details like that. Any other questions? Panorama Suite bathroom with freestanding bathtub The giant Grohe rain shower can conveniently be used together with the shower. This is one place where the usual either-or does not apply… Six Senses Spa The 2,000 m2 Six Senses Spa unites both Alpine and Asian ambiance in an unpretentious aesthetic. Beside five luxurious treatment rooms, ensuring the utmost in modern spa comfort are: a hamam steam bath, a flotation room, a color therapy and Ayurveda room, an Oriental treatment room, a Himalayan salt grotto, a detox room and relaxation areas. Pool in the Six Senses Spa Available in the spa are various body treatments, aromatherapy massages, fitness, rejuvenation, and detox programs and it offers weight reduction as well as acupuncture, chi gong and tai chi. There is also a mountain detox program… Well, how could you possibly not leave here in better shape? Especially, since the food by the way – in spite of the numerous courses – is astonishingly light! The only drawback perhaps is that the wet area is segregated by men and women. Perhaps a concession to Arab guests? The spa also includes an indoor pool, an outside pool in the garden, two whirlpools and a yoga studio. Oh, yes, there would of course also have to be a modern fitness room. But we didn’t want to overdo it during our short stay ;-) Hotel Management The Alpina Gstaad Hotel is managed by hotel director Eric Favre who has more than thirty years’ experience in the hotel business. He discreetly remains in the background in the public areas of the hotel and cultivates contact with his guests in his charming French accent. He may have grown up in the neighboring Château d’Oex, but he is a star hotelier to the core: Eric Favre, besides having managed Kempinski Hotels, also managed the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok that was ranked the best hotel in the world for ten years running … Walter and hotel director Eric Favre This five star luxury hotel opened its doors in December, 2012 and has already been singled out for numerous awards. These include, among others, having been chosen by Gault Millau Switzerland as the «Hotel of the Year» 2013 and, with the GALA SPA AWARD, it was named «Best Luxury Hotel – City/Resort». The hotel is a member of the Preferred Hotel Group as well as the exclusive travel network Virtuoso. If you insist on finding out more about prices and availability you will find the relevant information here. Our thanks go to… “Merci beaucoup” to Eric Favre, director of The Alpina Gstaad Hotel for the generous invitation! A big thank you also to Esther Beck, owner of ESTHER BECK PR for coordinating the visit and to Jenny Dean, Marketing & Sales Executive, for the very informative tour of the hotel. Also, the highly personable Chef de Service Franco Paloschi and his team are due a big “Grazie mille”! And last but not least, we owe our thanks to doorman Nevelin Prodanov: He supported us in word and deed during our filming. He also did the stunt with our Audi pulling up to the hotel ;-) Address The Alpina Gstaad, Alpinastrasse 23, 3780 Gstaad, Switzerland Phone: +41 (0)33 888 98 88 Click here for prices and availabilities. ## Relaxing at the Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/lenkerhof-gourmet-spa-resort The Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort is a modern *****Superior luxury hotel offering anything you need to relax, recover, fill up your batteries and get inspired. This first-class hotel captivates its guests with its elegant furnishings, a gourmet restaurant and its wide range of feel-good treatments to choose from. Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort Until about a decade ago, today’s Lenkerhof was a health establishment, mainly known for its healing sulphur baths. In 2002, the wellness hotel was newly opened and it has since won several awards. The house has a bathing tradition dating back more than 300 years. Moreover, it has its own sulphur source, a stylish interior and two top restaurants! We tested them thoroughly… The living room of Lenkerhof (lobby & bar) On your way to the hotel, you will already be welcomed (“Wüukomme”) in the likeable Bernese dialect. Before you get to the administrative check-in matters, a delicious “chai tea espuma” welcome drink and a refreshing tissue will be handed to you. Chai tea espuma as welcome drink The authentic Bernese hospitality will continue to accompany you throughout your stay. Bernese people are great, similar to the extremely friendly South Tyroleans. Here you can find our animated impressions… Rooms and suites of the Lenkerhof The rooms of the Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort are decorated in bright, friendly, warm colours which support a pleasant and relaxing recovery. All rooms are equipped with a flat-screen TV and a B&O music system. They offer a wonderful view of the mountains of Simmental, amongst other landmark mountains “Wildstrubel”. Junior Suite “Mediterranean” Lenkerhof’s Gault Millau cuisine As is typical for members of the Relais & Châteaux Hotel Association, culinary art is of great significance at Lenkerhof. In the cosy and atmospheric wine cellar with its well-assorted wines, you can follow the host’s invitation to the daily wine tasting and enjoy one of many sumptuous experiences. The wine cellar of the Lenkerhof Continue your culinary adventure in the restaurant “Spettacolo”, which has been awarded 15 Gault Millau points. This elegant restaurant offers modern “well-flavour”-cuisine with a daily (!) changing selection. Restaurant “Spettacolo Each guest can choose from 15 different courses and compose his own 4- to 7-course menu. Of course, you can also have more courses than that and ask for a supplement at any time. On average, guests of the Lenkerhof order 6.2 courses… Tender fillet of beef on mashed potatoes with pistachio We were allowed to catch a glimpse of the kitchen, in which intensive, vigilant work is being done. It is very busy in the kitchen, but at the same time quite silent: the kitchen staff is focused on working its way through the flood of orders. It is impressive witnessing how the 23-member kitchen crew and the service staff ensure that every dish gets to the right place at the right time. Host Jan Stiller personally explained to us how the system works… Host Jan Stiller explains the kitchen work routine to Katja If you prefer to spend the evening in a somewhat more intimate ambience with a southern European touch, you should try the second restaurant “Oh de Vie”. It has sublime Mediterranean cuisine and is suitable if you don’t feel like having 4-15 courses. Table decoration in the “Oh de Vie” The extensive breakfast buffet leaves nothing to be desired. It is a culinary delight and it gives you power for your day. Art at Lenkerhof Wonderful works of art from flowers adorn various areas of the hotel such as the “living room”, as the hosts affectionately call their lobby/bar. They want their guests to feel at home, which they accomplished by creating a really warm and cosy interior. We were especially impressed by the paintings. During our stay, the house’s walls were hung with spectacular works from the Martin Stucki Foundation (the exhibition only lasted until December 2013) as well as paintings by Jürg Opprecht, owner of the Lenkerhof. Due to the interplay of art and the natural stone of the stone walls, the art objects really stood out. Painting by Jürg Opprecht at the Lenkerhof Wellness, beauty & spa at the Lenkerhof “7 Sources Beauty & Spa” is the name of Lenkerhof’s spa. The name was inspired by the place where the vivacious, energetic Simme River has its source. In the extensive range of the spa, you will find a wide variety of modern spa facilities, including indoor and outdoor pools, different saunas (bio/oil/aroma / herbal and Finnish sauna), steam baths, sulphur grotto, ice grotto and jacuzzis. From the warm sulphur outdoor pool, you have a lovely view of the mountains! Sulphur bath with a view of the mountain Wildstrubel A cosily furnished restroom and a corner for relaxing with sofas complete the spa. However, these areas – with full occupancy of the hotel – are rather small. We were able to get a lounge chair in the nick of time :-) However, we liked the practical idea of using clothes pegs and name tags for the bathrobes: this way, you can avoid mix-ups in the well-attended spa. Good idea! Distinctive: bathrobe with a name tag Our thanks go to… … Isabelle Trachsel for organising our stay and giving us a tour through the house. Another big thank you goes to Heike Schmidt and Jan Stiller for the invitation and for the interesting information about the house. As usual for Relais & Châteaux hotels, the hosts were there for us day and night, they charmingly received their guests and of course, also say goodbyes to their leaving guests. Host couple Jan Stiller and Heike Schmidt For connoisseurs: here you can check the rates and availability of the Lenkerhof. Address Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort, Badstrasse 20, 3775 Lenk, Switzerland Phone: +41 33 736 36 36 ## Longing for Patagonia – Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno Glacier and Gravel Roads Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/patagonia-torres-del-paine-perito-moreno-glacier-gravel-roads We are flying to Patagonia! Yes, the famous Patagonia! The mystical place, of which everyone is talking yearningly. Of course, our expectations are stirred up by this and we are very excited to find out what awaits us at the end of the world. ## Urban stay at “The Passage” design hotel in Basel Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/urban-stay-the-passage-hotel-basel In March 2014 a four-star urban hotel boasting a prime location in downtown Basel opened its doors: The Passage. It’s the hotel’s location that gives it this particular name, since it stands on the boundary of the old town and the new city of Basel. Thanks to its central location the hotel is situated at walking distance of shopping streets, museums, theaters and tourist attractions. Tinguely’s shallow fountain in Basel Urban stay at The Passage hotel White is the predominant color throughout the interiors of The Passage hotel giving it an urban design character. Highlight colors are selectively added through furnishings, lighting and accessories making for a very calm and comfortable atmosphere. The patio lends itself perfectly as a soothing urban oasis where you share drinks and snacks with friends in an intimate and friendly environment. Patio with lounge Rooms, Lofts and Deluxe Suites at The Passage The hotel offers 52 rooms, a deluxe suite and three exceptional lofts with well-equiped kitchens and a private terrace or balcony. The hotel scores with spacious, high-ceiling rooms flooded with light. All rooms feature light oak floors and brightly colored decorative elements creating a striking contrast. Deluxe room On the walls you will see the names of Basel’s most famous events such as the Art Basel or the Swiss Indoors tennis tournament. And as we all know – Basel is the hometown of tennis star Roger Federer! Swiss Indoors lettering over the bed Also the bathroom is very ample and features a walk-in shower and complimentary L’Occitane en Provence toiletries. View from the bathroom Among other the rooms also offer comfortable amenities such as an iPod docking station and a Nespresso coffee machine – what else? The hotel is mainly praised for business since it also offers a conference room and fitness center. But we can also highly recommend it to leisure guests since it is located perfectly when visiting Basel. Restaurants in Basel Those who prefer to eat “inhouse” will be disappointed, though, since you won’t find a traditional restaurant in the hotel (a breakfast buffet is available at the bar lounge). Lounge-Bar and breakfast room However, that’s not so bad since once you get out of the hotel you’ll find yourself near “Barfüsserplatz” with several restaurants and bars. The Basel Tourism website offers a broad choice of Basel’s restaurants. Pigeons at Barfüsserplatz Check out rates and availability here. Trade fair and cultural city of Basel Basel has become one of the leading trade fair and congress centres in Switzerland. The city’s congress building is right in the city’s heart – a fact that is appreciated by trade fair participants and visitors alike. Most important events include the likes of Art Basel, the largest art fair in the world, Art Basel Miami or Baselworld, the world trade fair for watches and jewellery, Basel attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year! Here are a few impressions from our short stay in Basel: Basel wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("h14nfnm6x7", { videoFoam: true }); But Basel is also nicknamed “cultural capital of Switzerland” since it has an exceptional cultural offering such as several museums, a theatre house and world-renowned works of art! Basel is definitively worth a visit, even just to stroll the picturesque old town… Picturesque old town And yet some more impressions from the new design hotel The Passage and Basel: Rhein und Les Trois Rois Luxushotel Grossbasel am Rhein Seitengasse beim Rheinsprung Rotes Rathaus Basels mit Turm Hotelbericht Augustinergasse-Basel Basler Müster und Münsterplatz Basler Müster Kreuzgang Basler Münster Hotelbericht Hotelbericht Hotelbericht Hotelbericht Hotel review The Passage Hotel Basel Hotelbericht Hotelbericht Hotelbericht Our thanks go to… …the Management of The Passage Hotel for the Invitation and to Carole Johner from PRfact AG for organizing this stay! ## Reykjavik and its “Harpa” Source: https://travelmemo.com/iceland/reykjavik-harpa Since the financial crisis, Iceland’s capital Reykjavik has got a vitreous “harp” – the conference and concert house “Harpa”, located in the harbour area. We got a glimpse of it and gave it a listen. With roughly 300.000 inhabitants on the island, one cannot expect to find a big capital. Still, with its Harpa, Reykjavik has got an imposing conference and concert house. Reykjavik’s “Harpa” concert hall by the harbour It was planned to be built with investor funds during the hype of the banks, as a great symbol for both Icelandic art and economic power. The financial crisis of 2008 let the investors go bankrupt – banks were nationalised. That is why the public authorities were handed a half-done shell of building. Colour effect glass of the Harpa Refusing to give up, they eventually completed the constructing of the glass building, which now functions as a very popular new landmark of Reykjavik. Concert hall Harpa by the harbour The multilayered glass facade, made out of colour effect glass, is reflecting and glittering in the sun in different colours, depending on the weather. White wine for the concert break The spacious interior rooms in front of the 4 conference and concert rooms are transparent and let in a lot of light. Stairs in the light-flooded atrium The concert hall, which holds up to 1.800 visitors, has adjustable acoustics and has been equipped with all kinds of modern shenanigans, e.g. interpreters’ booths for up to 9 languages. Obviously, I’m still working on my video skills, but the sound is not that bad! At least sometimes, when I don’t forget to turn on the microphone… I understood exactly one word of the host’s Icelandic speech: “luxury hotel”, which is supposed to be built in the area of the harbour, too. Our guide Arthúr Bollason explained this to us later on, after we had made fun of our language knowledge of Icelandic… Old Town of Reykjavik When strolling through Reykjavik’s Old Town, one wonders about the low flying propeller planes. There is a domestic airport in the vicinity of Reykjavik. Especially in winter, when many roads become impassable, it is of great importance. The longest connection on the island takes a little more than 1 hour. The stroll won’t take long, of course. In about one hour all sights and the shopping- and bar-street Laugavegur will be seen. On this street, the Sólon Bar is one of the most popular meeting points for the young and the young at heart who are fond of tippling. Legendary Sólon Bar Restaurants and dining like the locals Close by lies the Lækjarbrekka, in which you can dine like a local. In cozy tightness, enjoy delightful puffins and more… Upper floor of the restaurant Laekjarbrekka We enjoyed the food a lot and highly recommend to try the lamb and the sea food! A little distance outside town lies the eye-catching Pearl: on top of the warm water tanks of the city, inside a glass dome, there is a revolving restaurant which rotates once in two hours. Even though it is rather pricy, it is supposed to be a good value for money. This time, we didn’t try it out. Accomodation in Reykjavik In Iceland, elegant design hotels are a rarity. For this trip, we chose the practical Hilton Reykjavik Nordica. Alternatives could be the 101 Hotel, the CenterHotel Thingholt or the Centerhotel Arnarhvoll. Though we did not try these out. Thank you Many thanks to Icelandair for the invitation to Iceland! The best way to get to Reykjavik from Zurich can be found in our personal report of the first flight on our German travel blog Reisememo. ## Thailand tour part 1 – Koh Samui and the W Retreat Hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/thailand/thailand-tour-koh-samui-w-retreat-hotel We started our two-week round trip in an Airbus A340 with Thai Airways, from Zurich to Koh Samui via Koh Phangan to Bangkok, and back again. Check out what stylish hotels our tour operator had up his sleeves! For passengers with claustrophobic tendencies, we recommend seats 31E and F. Not only are these seats directly behind business class giving you lots of legroom, you also get served your food first. Checking in online really paid off. With Thai charm and sufficient tailwind, we reached Bangkok in just 9.5 hours. Bangkok Airways’ ATR 72-500 Shortly after landing, we continued to Koh Samui with “Nemo”. To our surprise, we didn’t have an ordinary plane but an older plane from Bangkok Airways: an ATR 72-500 that showed off an old-time charm with its patina and colorful fish paintings. Despite the antiquated outfit, we enjoyed a smooth and convenient flight. At the airport in Koh Samui, we felt like we had landed in the middle of a golf course: a perfect lawn, a beautiful green area and little minibuses that reminded us of golf carts. These minibuses waited for the guests and brought us to nice little palm huts. The airport had a very open style and radiated a classic island feeling. Relaxed atmosphere at the baggage claim The chic W Retreat Hotel In Koh Samui, we spent four nights at the W Retreat Hotel. Immediately on arriving, we were welcomed with a breathtaking view of Koh Phangan. The stylish, urban architecture and interior boasted a confident aura and set a new standard in the primarily pragmatic Koh Samui. The “Kawasaki green” lounges built in the water invites one to relax and is an eye-catching feature. In the evening, one of the resident DJs throws his electro beats at you and fine drinks are served. A passion fruit caipirinha is a delicacy you shouldn’t miss. W Retreat lounge with a view of Koh Phangan The hotel has a rather diverse range of guests. Here, you find nouveau riche, traditionally wealthy, honeymooners, young and old, and, of course, travel bloggers from travelmemo.com. The nationalities reach far and wide, including visitors ranging from China to Australia, Switzerland, and Germany to Mexico. Most people were not really talkative; perhaps, some are following the dictum that one does not talk about money. Perhaps it’s also because the hotel grounds are very large and you rarely bump into other guests. We also noticed that many only stay for a couple of nights and then move on. Some people might find the atmosphere a bit cool and impersonal. However, the excellent service, the breathtaking design and the great location make up for it, allowing you to quickly forget the reticent guests. The private pool is a perfect place to relax It’s the small details that make the W really big. According to the motto, “whatever, whenever”, the hotel reads your wishes in your eyes. The beer at the beach is served in dedicated coolers and the “sweet spots” offer chilled drinks and ice cream around the clock (free of charge, of course). In the evening, homemade pralines and popcorn are waiting for you in front of the TV. And in bed, the teddy bear who’s been wearing a tie during the day has been dressed in pyjamas by room service. These countless details give the hotel a special flair. What the reticent guests don’t do, the staff can do really well. We had long and very enjoyable chats with various W employees that brought back the personal touch. The lobby also looks really good at night! The hotel might have a slightly decadent taste but, honestly, we found it to be great. Although we went without the champagne spa treatment with champagne bath, champagne scrub and champagne massage (because one should rather drink it), we had a wonderful and relaxing time. The unique architecture and the urban hipster design in this marvelous island scenery combined with the daily goodies make this place real in location. The W hotel chain will increase their portfolio to more than 60 hotels worldwide, with each one of those hotels designed in a similarly stylish concept. Breakfast buffet “Kitchen Table” at the W Retreat Koh Samui The famous Chaweng Beach Chaweng Beach, a world-famous beach on Koh Samui, is probably the most lively and most touristy place on the island. Even though it seems that everything was built and arranged for tourists, a distinctively Thai feeling is still noticeable here. In addition to the many little booths that mainly sell products made in China, there are countless Thai massage salons. Amidst the many tourist shops, in which busy Thais clamor for the favor of tourists, we found the most special gas stations we could ever have imagined. Fueling up, Thai edition … All over the island, we found whisky bottle gas stations. We were told that the minimum fill-up at a conventional gas station is two liters. But because the Thai sometimes like to only fill up one litre at a time, you will often find recycled whisky bottles filled with gasoline amidst the air mattresses and sun hats. Beach Beach Beach Beach Beach Beach Beach Bar Beach Bar Beach Bar Beach Bar Beach Bar Beach Bar Beach Beach Private Pool Private Pool Tropical Suite Tropical Suite Tropical Suite Tropical Suite Guest room Guest room Guest room Guest room Shower Shower Bathroom Bathroom Corridor Corridor Koh Samui Koh Samui Gas station Gas station Koh Samui Koh Samui Beach Bar Beach Bar Restaurant Restaurant Breakfast Breakfast View View Eggstation Eggstation W Bear W Bear Spa Spa Spa Spa Spa Spa Lamp Lamp Beach Beach Beach Beach Guest room Guest room Lobby Lobby Decoration Decoration Gas station Gas station Gas station Gas station Fruits Fruits Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Restaurant Restaurant Decoration Decoration Woobar Woobar W View W View W View W View Want to know how the journey continues? Read part 2 about: Koh Phangan and the Anantara Resort. Part 2: Koh Phangan and the Anantara Resort Book your Thailand tour with Nezasa Nezasa.com is a start-up whose mission is to enable customers to build individual high-quality trips with just a few clicks online. The entrepreneurs want to combine the convenient service of a travel agency with the simplicity and cost structure of an online provider. Individual travelers know all too well the endless and nerve-wracking search for hotels, flights, transfers, potential activities and whatever else is needed. For nights on end, they search the Internet for credible reports, suitable websites and competent operators. If it gets too tedious, the only way out is to visit a travel agency. Building individual trips is especially difficult in Asian countries. It’s here where Nezasa steps in with their easy-to-navigate travel site that enables planning and booking a trip with just a few clicks. Book individual tours with local support Choose the destination: jungle, historic places or just relax? Sounds good in this order. Personalize the selected trip: A different hotel, an upgrade, or extend/shorten the stay in a particular place? To each their own. Booking: Don’t forget to book. Now you have your customized trip at your fingertips. The Nezasa portal is a great help and provides perfect service, good prices and an appealing design. The Nezasa team is constantly working on providing new and trendy destinations and they’ll gladly assist you with their insider know-how. Check out our trip as it is published by Nezasa.com and customize your own tour! Many thanks to the Nezasa team around CEO Manuel Hilty for supporting this trip! Read part 2 of our tour about: Koh Phangan and the Anantara Resort. ## Thailand tour part 2 – Koh Phangan and the Anantara Resort Source: https://travelmemo.com/thailand/thailand-tour-koh-phangan-anantara-resort After four nights on Koh Samui, we moved on to Koh Phangan on a speed catamaran. This island is smaller than Koh Samui and consists mainly of jungle making us float in seventh heaven … Behind the hotels, there are a few sleepy villages in which the Thai people work and live. Koh Phangan is booming, however. Thanks to the full moon, empty moon, half moon, and their many after parties, many tourists end up in Koh Phangan. Still, the island is far from being as full as Koh Samui and not as touristy – not yet, anyway. That being said, they’re working on improving the infrastructure. New, broader streets and an airport will increase the island’s capacity. We do hope that the beautiful little Thai villages will remain as wonderfully sleepy and relaxed as they are today, and that the “ballyhoo” of Chaweng Beach will not hit this island. The Anantara Rasananda Resort on Koh Phangan At the northeastern end of the island, at the Thong Nai Pan Noi beach, you’ll find the five-star resort Anantara Rasananda. Everybody who wants to feel like Tarzan and Jane in seventh heaven will find themselves feeling like they’re being rocked to sleep on a bed of clouds. Located the middle of tropical fauna and flora and directly on the shore, this resort is designed openly and in harmony with nature and is most probably one of the best of its kind on this island. The hotel exterior, built in harmony with nature With incredible attention to detail, the hotel staff takes care of the vast facility and does everything to ensure the well-being of guests. Huge Koi ponds and a labyrinth of paths and bridges connect the guest bungalows. Without much kitsch or exaggerated modern architecture, the little huts blend into the palm forest very well and allow the beach and jungle to appear almost untouched. On Koh Phangan, life is simpler. Anyone who has had the pleasure of spending their holidays on a small island knows about the limited resources available. Despite this, this resort does not leave anything to chance. The acclimatized standard bungalows offer everything the heart desires: Apple TV, a minibar with excellent and free spirits, a private jacuzzi on the balcony, hotel-branded flip flops (in different sizes, of course) and a prepacked beach bag are just a few of the many amenities that make daily life in the bungalow a smooth experience. Even in the jungle, the wine is always at perfect temperature. The Thai cooking course which we were treated to during the stay was great. In very good English, the sous-chef introduced the guests to the art of the Thai kitchen. The prepared menu, of course, can be enjoyed at the end of the class. On top of this, we received a bottle of wine as a present. We’ll never forget the slightly reddened face and the scratchy voice of our native Thai chef when he said, “Uh, that’s spicy. Perfect!” after we’d had our way with the chilis. Uuh … that’s spicy…Perfect! Sous-chef of the Anantara Resort in action The location of the hotel could be described as a minor flaw. The resort is situated on the side of the island facing the open ocean and so it’s not always possible to relax on calm waters on your air mattress. But wave jumping is definitely a lot of fun and brings much-needed refreshment. Whoever doesn’t feel like doing this can enjoy a snorkeling trip to Koh Ma Beach in the Northwest. This bay boasts very beautiful island scenery, mostly calm waters and a house reef with plenty of fish and a huge anemone garden. Although the underwater life doesn’t quite compare with the Red Sea or an intact reef on the Maldives, it’s still very beautiful and diverse and offers a great experience to divers and snorkelers. Dining at the beach In the Anantara Rasananda hotel, each evening has its own motto. There’s a lobster night, open-air cinema or a classic Thai buffet at the beach. This is always accompanied by a hip Electro DJ or a fire artist. Those who don’t feel like enjoying the incredible cuisine of the hotel can visit the village next to the resort. There, many Thai restaurants offer authentic and affordable menus. Those who opt for a romantic dinner on the resort’s beach should not miss out on the roasted duck with a tamarind reduction and asparagus. This is one of the chef’s masterpieces that brings the day to its end in style… View into the spa of the Anantara Resort We enjoyed the five days in this resort very much. The staff, which speaks English very well, does its best to fulfill all the guest’s wishes and shows an incredible dedication. The enchanting surroundings, the island’s relaxed atmosphere, the incredible food and the beautiful weather in this resort come together to create an especially nice holiday experience. Gas station Gas station Thai Grill Thai Grill Gas station Gas station Boat Boat Boat trip Boat trip Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Dinner Dinner Kitchen Kitchen Dinner Dinner Restaurant Restaurant Pool bar Pool bar Pool site Pool site Library Library Anantara Anantara Mailbox Mailbox Flowers Flowers Village Village Thai Grill Thai Grill Chair Chair Pool bar Pool bar cooking class Cooking class Cooking class Cooking class Guestroom Guest room Guest room Guest room Hotel facility Hotel Facility Hotel Facility Hotel Facility Entrance Entrance Pool bar Pool Bar Beach Beach Garden Garden Signpost Signpost Entrance Entrance Garden Garden Read more about our trip in part 3 which led us to: Bangkok and its W Design Hotel. Part 3: Bangkok and its busy W Design Hotel Part 1 of our tour started on Koh Samui at the W Retreat Hotel. Read more here. Part 1: W Retreat Hotel in Koh Samui Book your Thailand tour with Nezasa Nezasa.com is a start-up whose mission is to enable customers to build individual high-quality trips with just a few clicks online. The entrepreneurs want to combine the convenient service of a travel agency with the simplicity and cost structure of an online provider. Individual travelers know all too well the endless and nerve-wracking search for hotels, flights, transfers, potential activities and whatever else is needed. For nights on end, they search the Internet for credible reports, suitable websites and competent operators. If it gets too tedious, the only way out is to visit a travel agency. Building individual trips is especially difficult in Asian countries. It’s here where Nezasa steps in with their easy-to-navigate travel site that enables planning and booking a trip with just a few clicks. Book individual tours with local support Choose the destination: jungle, historic places or just relax? Sounds good in this order. Personalize the selected trip: A different hotel, an upgrade, or extend/shorten the stay in a particular place? To each their own. Booking: Don’t forget to book. Now you have your customized trip at your fingertips. The Nezasa portal is a great help and provides perfect service, good prices and an appealing design. The Nezasa team is constantly working on providing new and trendy destinations and they’ll gladly assist you with their insider know-how. Check out our trip as it is published by Nezasa.com and customize your own tour! Many thanks to the Nezasa team around CEO Manuel Hilty for supporting this trip! Read more about our trip in part 3: Bangkok and its W Design Hotel. Or review part 1 of our tour which led to Koh Samui and the W Retreat Hotel. ## Thailand tour part 3 – Bangkok and its W Hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/thailand/thailand-trip-bangkok-w-hotel The last part of our tour led us back to Thailand’s capital Bangkok. Again, we stayed at one of the W Hotels. The W Hotel Bangkok boasting Asian elegance is located in the dynamic business district. The beautiful things in life always come to an end too quickly. We returned to Koh Samui on the speed catamaran, knowing we would be at the airport three hours too early due to the ferry’s fixed departure times. Admittedly, we were already looking forward to doing nothing and counting suitcases at the airport. But an attentive Bangkok Airways employee switched us to an earlier flight to Bangkok on short notice, free of charge, and informed us that boarding would start in five minutes. We suppressed any stress symptoms and hurried to the gate. The old Russian embassy in the entrance of the W Hotel Bangkok W Hotel in Bangkok In Bangkok, we were awaited by the next W. Situated in the renowned Embassy Row in the dynamic business district, it’s a stylish icon of Asian elegance. The luxurious lifestyle hotel also lives up to its stellar reputation and provides music, design and fashion to its guests. Both business travelers and leisure tourists find a place where one cannot only relax and work well. Regularly, the W Bangkok hosts in-events in a very modern environment. Trendy parties during weekends and art exhibitions enrich the daily routine. The old villa of the Russian embassy decorates the forecourt of the modern, 31-story hotel tower and provides an impressive contrast when entering the area. Inside the hotel, the lift area in the lobby is decorated with a breathtaking piece of art consisting of more than 800 tuk-tuk lights and an especially adjusted light installation. The carpets in the entrance and in the elevators are changed three times a day, from “good morning” to “good afternoon” to “good evening”. Light installation with countless tuk-tuk lights In the typically friendly and courteous “W” fashion, we were accompanied to our “Spectacular Room”. The resonant name lived up to its promise because the room provides a breathtaking view of the city. An especially cool gadget is the tablet within the room, with “do what you want, I’m yours” written on the display of the remote control. With this tablet, for example, you can dim the lights, regulate the air conditioning or even activate the “do not disturb” button. Working with a view of Bangkok One doesn’t visit Bangkok just for a hotel. In that sense, our next target was the tailor. Just in this neighborhood, in Silom Road, is Tony’s, the best in the city. We’re not the only ones who think this; the jury of the Best Tailor Awards 2009 has also recognized Tony’s. After almost four hours of digging around and stroking cloth, we put together our collection. We were looking forward to the fitting, which took place the next day. For such a large order, Tony usually needs three days. Smaller orders are most often finished in two days. The Bee Garden at the Silom Road Discovered some years ago, the Bee Garden has become a fixed part of our schedule every time we visit Bangkok. For more than 10 years, this restaurant opens each evening after 6 p.m. in front of the Siam Commercial Bank at the ITF Tower. This location has the real Bangkok feeling: a six-lane street to the right, Skytrains thundering overhead, and affectionately decorated tables on the sidewalk. These few tables are one of those places that gourmets should visit if they love authentic, down-to-earth cuisine. This street restaurant is easy to find. It’s located directly at the place where the Skytrain turns into Silom Road after the BTS station. The pool area of the W Bangkok Another very rewarding experience is the Sky Bar of the Lebua at State Tower Hotel. Most people will have heard of this place by now after seeing the third instalment of the Hollywood blockbuster Hangover series. Located on the 64th floor of the hotel, this rooftop bar serves rather pricey drinks but rewards the visitor with a stunning view of the whole city. So far, we also vote for the breakfast buffet of this hotel (Lebua at State Tower) as the best possible start to the day. But “Kitchen Table”, the W’s own restaurant, has significantly stirred up our view of Bangkok’s breakfast world. The interior architecture of the restaurant takes you into a different world. Artfully designed walls and tables invite you to stay and eat. At the buffet, an unbelievable wealth of delicacies waits to sweeten up your day. Asian, Western and intercontinental dishes are prepared at the highest level and served on porcelain from Rosenthal. Various Dim Sum, fresh noodle soups, sushi, homemade yogurt, a piece of salmon or, for our lot, even a Birchermüesli are on offer here. What you don’t find will be made and what you do find is perfectly prepared. To us, this buffet was one of the top highlights of this trip. Dear buffet, we’ll definitely be back! W Restaurant «Kitchen Table» Holidays often pass by very quickly and so the last day came way too early. At six in the morning, we had to leave our beds in the direction of Chatuchak Weekend Market. The Skytrain brought us there quickly. With more than 20,000 stands, this market is always worth a visit. A conglomeration of diverse offerings covers 14 hectares that are visited by more than 200,000 people every day for viewing and negotiating. As the name suggests, this market only takes place on weekends. Those who don’t want to miss this adventure should be aware of this and plan their stay in Bangkok accordingly. Dozens of negotiations later and with full bags, we returned to the hotel in the afternoon for the checkout. Beforehand, we had to enjoy the beautiful pool area one last time. Our flight back was scheduled for midnight and the hotel was friendly enough to offer us a late checkout (4 p.m.) free of charge. After the pool, we quickly wanted to refresh ourselves. And the W would not be the W if this wish was not fulfilled at the highest level as well. Instead of the shower cabins in the fitness area, we were assigned another official room to shower and refresh ourselves very comfortably. Bathroom in the W Bangkok During our holidays – which we booked with Nezasa – one major highlight followed another. From the start, we felt taken care of exceptionally well. The trip was not only perfectly organized but also full of wonderful impressions. Nezasa’s simple system allowed us to book stress-free holidays easily! Many thanks go to Nezasa CEO Manuel Hilty who made this wonderful trip possible. Breakfast Breakfast Tables Tables Pastry Pastry Bar Bar Bar Bar Bar Bar Decoration Decoration Bathroom Bathroom Arts Arts Corridor Corridor Lobby Lobby Stairways Stairways Lobby Lobby Bee Garden Bee Garden Lebua Lebua Buffet Buffet Buffet Buffet Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Rooftop Bar Rooftop Bar Pool Pool Dinner Cruise Dinner Cruise Dinner Cruise Dinner Cruise Bathroom Bathroom Guest Room Guest Room Guest Room Guest Room Bee Garden Bee Garden Massage Massage Patio Patio Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Breakfast Part 1 of our Thailand tour led us to Koh Samui. Read our travelogue about the W Retreat Hotel on Koh Samui. Part 1: W Retreat Hotel on Koh Samui In part 2 of our Thailand tour you get to know more how we got spoiled in the jungle of Koh Phangan, at the Anantara Rasananda Resort. Part 2: In seventh heaven on Koh Phangan ## Stylish Golf and Boutique Hotel Tour around Lisbon Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/boutique-hotel-golf-tour-lisbon When autumn approaches we usually look for a destination to spend some more sunny days to extend the summer. Autumn is the perfect season to travel to Portugal since it offers visitors a wealth of culture, beautiful landscape and great golf courses! Besides from stellar boutique hotels, of course… The region around Lisbon – Portugal’s capital – is not only a fantastic region for golfers, though. Whether you care about history and heritage, great beaches or the unique landscape, the country makes for an excellent autumn getaway! “Lisbon’s "Ponte 25 de Abril" suspension bridge These are our recommendations for golfers and those who love small yet stylish boutique hotels: Travel itinerary for a tour around Lisbon We first headed eastwards toward Évora in the Alentejo region. When leaving Lisbon we crossed the impressive “Vasco da Gama” bridge, one of the longest bridges in the World! “Vasco da Gama” suspension bridge After visiting the enchanting Alentejo region we travelled back west, to Cascais, before we continued our trip up north: Click here for larger map Places of Interest around Lisbon Évora – Bursting with History and Culture Traveling to Évora, the capital of the Alentejo region, you will find a sleepy landscape, white villages, vines, olive groves and small towns that have remained practically unchanged for centuries. This region is truly charming! And the city of Évora – a UNESCO World Heritage – is like an open air museum with many cultural sites, palaces and churches. Évora’s city hall There are so many nice cafes and bars in Évora that we enjoyed walking around, savoring local wine every now and then. The region is also known for its genuine cuisine, by the way. We had a delicious black pork at a restaurant called “Maria Luisa”. At the Maria Luisa restaurant, check out their cheese! Cascais Cascais lies on the far western coast approximately 30 km from Lisbon. The former fishing village has reinvented itself into an elegant seaside resort and one of Lisbon’s most sophisticated destinations. Locals flock here for a relaxed weekend. Cascais on a foggy day Sintra Sintra is yet another UNESCO World Heritage site nearby. There are many things to see in Sintra, starting of course with discovering the natural and architectural buildings, the historic palaces, castles, monasteries and monuments. Unfortunately, the day we visited Sintra it was rainy and foggy. Hence we don’t have any great pictures to show here :-( Vibrant Lisbon The wide variety of city hills and heritage buildings make Lisbon a well rounded city. The picturesque capital, built on a series of hills with scenic vistas from every angle, is very charming and we enjoyed the city’s parks, gardens, belvederes, cafés and esplanades. Besides of all the heritage monuments Lisbon also boasts modern architecture as for example the impressive Champalimaud Foundation building in Belém. Champalimaud Foundation in Belém/Lisbon Belém is one of Lisbon’s neighbourhoods with the largest number of heritage sites. Here you will find the picturesque Tower of Belem and Jeronimos Monastery (both World heritage sites). Tower of Belém in Lisbon At the “Antiga Confeitaria de Belém” (simply known as “Pasteis de Belém” or “Belém pastries”) we bought Lisbon’s famous custard tarts. Be prepared to queue, though! The pastry shop gets the most visitors around! Delicious “Pasteis de Belém” Once you’re back in Lisbon you shouldn’t miss the ride across Alfama – Lisbon’s old medieval district – with the legendary tram No. 28 – what a great experience! Tram No. 28 in Alfama The view from the terrace of the “Elevador de Santa Justa” is also very recommendable. You get a 360-degree bird’s-eye views of the city! Santa Justa elevator Dont’ miss the “Parque das Nações” – the former exhibition site of Expo 98. Its futuristic architecture offers a strong contrast to the city’s old quarters. Most of it was built by innovative architects for the World Fair that took place in 1998. Knowledge Pavillon on the former Expo site Charming Boutique Hotels Besides the traditional “Pousada” hotels Portugal also boasts charming boutique hotels. We were amazed by the following great retreats: L’AND vineyards – design hotel in the Alentejo region L’AND Vineyard design hotel Areias Do Seixo – one of the most enchanting boutique hotel we’ve ever visited! Review of Portugal’s most enchanting boutique hotel. Stellar hideaway just North of Lisbon. Check this out! wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("vneqmc6qk8", { videoFoam: true }); The Oitavos – an outstanding golf and design hotel in Cascais The Oitavos Hotel Amazing Golf Courses around Lisbon Portugal is also very renowned for its fantastic golf courses. Many of them are situated at Portugal’s south coast, in the Algarve. However, Purtugal’s centre region has some great and remarkable courses, too! Troia Golf Course Read our separate report about the amazing golf courses around Lisbon: Troia, Quinta da Marinha, Penha Longa, Oitavos Dunes, Praia del Rey and Belas. Fly into Lisbon and Rent a Car! Lisbon’s international airport is located quite closely to the city centre and you get to the city in no time. If you’re planning to travel to remote golf courses and different hotels you might want to book a rental car. The Portuguese driving behavior is relatively easy given its latin roots… ## Australian Food and Wine Road Trip Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/south-australia/australian-food-wine-road-trip Having travelled extensively ‘down under’, here are some of our favourite places to stop off for the best boutique food and wine in the rich pickings of South Australia. Henry & Rose café court yard Most people would say that travel is about seeing new things. But it’s also about experiences as well, and for all of us, food and drink is right up there on the list. Tasting a particular dish – even years later – can transport us back to a different time or place. That’s why we always try to taste the local cuisine when we travel. Not only does it give you some unforgettable experiences, but it also helps support the community you’re spending time in. Adelaide You could start your road trip off from Adelaide, Australia’s fifth largest city. Before hitting the open road, there’s plenty to do in and in the immediate surrounds of the city. In the city itself, you’ll find the National Wine Centre which is a fascinating place to learn more about wine-making, enjoy tastings of a cast range of wines, and even nibble on some delicious tapas dishes at the boutique Cellar Door restaurant. And Italian-Australian firm Patritti Wines also keep a cellar door within the city limits. From sushi to pizza, you’ll find amazing restaurants throughout the city. But for a classic South Australian menu, featuring such treats as Coffin Bay oysters and kangaroo skewers, book a table at The Brasserie on Victoria Square. On picking up your transport, it’s a short drive up into the Adelaide Hills. Stop first at the Penfolds Magill Estate – the home of the famous Penfolds stable of wines – just 15 minutes from the city centre. Explore the underground tunnels and cellars of this heritage winery before dining at the estate’s restaurant. Further into the Adelaide Hills, there’s so much to do in terms of wineries, farms and markets. Fleurieu Peninsula Heading just an hour or so southwards from Adelaide, this region is home to over 100 cellar doors and has more of a boutique feel than the booming Barossa Valley further north. Known for its rich, warm reds, the peninsula encompasses the famous wine-making region of McLaren Vale. Start here, stopping in at Oliver’s Taranga and then onwards to d’Arenberg. This is a great place to stop for lunch at the winery’s d’Arry’s Verandah – one of the best restaurants in the region. This winery is one of South Australia’s most celebrated and creates a range of around 30 wines. Cafe & deli counter In general, the area’s seafood, fresh produce and deli goods like cheeses, meats and olive oils are unbeatable and are all found at local farmer’s markets. Kangaroo Island Telescope on bay in Kangaroo Island From the tip of the Fleurieu Peninsula, catch a ferry across the water to Kangaroo Island. Gravel road on Kangaroo Island In terms of food and drink, it’s an exciting place to visit, partly because it’s South Australia’s newest wine-producing region. Its 13 (and growing) boutique wineries are becoming known for their strong, vibrant wines. Artisanal producers of all kinds have set up cottage industries here; everything from cheese to honey, farmed seafood such as abalones, and rare breeds of pig. To live life the islanders’ way, ask a local deli to make you up a gourmet picnic for the beach. Fish Café, for example, does amazing seafood to takeaway. If you’d rather dine out, head to the centre of the island where you’ll find The Marron Café, part of the Andermel Marron farm at the Two Wheeler Creek winery in the heart of Kangaroo Island. Enjoy a wine tasting served up with freshwater crayfish (known as marron) seasoned with native tucker herbs. If you want to experience a similar trip to ours, check out this South Australian food and wine microsite from luxury travel experts, Exsus.com. ## InterContinental Davos – the Most Luxurious Alpine Golden Egg Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/intercontinental-davos-hotel-alpine-golden-egg With its futuristic facade shaped like a golden egg, the InterContinental Davos was opened in December 2013. The hotel is set in the spectacular Swiss ski resort of Davos. With several hundred gold-colored bands of steel the new hotel is an architectural stunner. Come check it out (video review)! ## Photo Competition by Blacks Source: https://travelmemo.com/photograph/blacks-explore-photo-competition Blacks is an outdoor and travel gear retailer in UK. They just launched a new international EXPLORE! competition. They want us to showcase our favourite images in the following categories: wild, fast, panoramic and epic. Here are our favourite pictures. They have all been taken by Walter – passionate photographer and blogger of travelmemo.com WILD Mating Lions on the game drive in South Africa What a wild scene! This picture was taken on a safari trip in South Africa. You can get some more impressions about mating lions here. FAST Tatio geysers at sunrise You don’t necessarily need to be fast – but you definitely need to be early to see the natural spectacle of the Tatio Geysers. Get some more hints about worthwile excursions at the Atacama Desert. PANORAMIC Idyllic mountain resort Braunwald and its iconic cable car One of the lesser known Swiss alpine jewels is Braunwald – a peaceful place from where you can enjoy a fantastic panoramic view! EPIC Breaking ice at Perito Moreno glacier in Patagonia, Argentina Our mini-trekking on Perito Moreno was sort of an epic experience! Get some more insights on our travelogue. Thanks to Helen Cross from blacks.co for bringing this competition to our attention! ## Our presentation at the Zurich World Travelers Meetup Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/presentation-zurich-world-travelers-meetup Recently we got invited to present the adventure of our last year’s trip to South America and how we hunted for a story in SWISS Airline’s board magazine. The short presentation “5 weeks in South America & the perks of being a travel blogger” gave the Zurich World Travellers Meetup an overview of the highlights we encountered. Travel supplier Nezasa.com invited us via Meetup to tell our story of how we tried to place an article in SWISS Airlines’ board magazine. And finally succeeded. One year later ;-) Guests arriving at the venue in Zurich’s Westend. Getting ready for the presentation After an introduction by Nezasa CEO Manuel Hilty Walter presented the 5-week itinerary the we chose for this trip. Katja, Manuel and Walter (from left) getting ready for the presentation Katja followed up with the local details, e.g. the “fin del mundo” atmosphere in Patagonia… Katja on Patagonia’s highlights It was a fun event, thanks for having us! This is SWISS Airlines’ March issue featuring our article on Entre Cielos. March issue of SWISS Airlines’ board magazine Our article on Entre Cielos And these are some of the hotels we wrote about. The full list on Chile is here and the one on Argentina is here. ## Valbella and Lenzerheide – One Graubünden Attraction after Another Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/valbella-inn-lenzerheide The family-operated Valbella Inn Resort, a comfortable four star Superior hotel lies on the upslope of the Lenzerheide high valley. From the resort you get a magnificent view of the Alps massif – mountains as far as the eye can see. To your left juts up the striking Rothorn mountain, while to the right dazzle the Piz Scalottas and the Stätzerhorn. The Valbella Inn Resort consists of the main building «Tgiasa Principala», the wooden extension wind «Tgiasa da Lenn» with the «Tor da Lenn» wellness tower, as well as the «Tgiasa Fastatsch» since December 2013. Hotelbar with novel ceiling lights The combination of modern design and cozy atmosphere is very well done and immediately conveys a sense of wellbeing. This is also due to the prudent way in which the Ramona and Thomas Vogt, the hotel hosts manage the resort and make every effort to greet each guest personally. Lounge in the Valbella Inn Resort The four star superior hotel is one of Design & Lifestyle Hotels in Graubünden and is also time a paradise for children at the same time. Children over two have the “Kids Inn”created by the LEGO Group. There they can have their fun, too, while the grown ups relax and enjoy the lifestyle. People often ask us if we couldn’t write about an elegant but family-friendly hotel sometime. We can now say that we’ve have actually found one ;-) Moreover, the Valbella team is very creative in putting their packages together! They offer various package deals, such as a family special, Nordic walking days or biking experiences. But the most creative package is the “Holzer Week” in June! Rooms in the «Tgiasa da Lenn» Our room was in the «Tgiasa da Lenn» (from the Romansch, “wooden house”) with 27 modern Alpine design rooms. «Tgiasa da Lenn» The furnishings are comfortable and homey, the rooms spacious, and the Nespresso coffee machine puts even morning grumps in a good mood :-) Double room in the «Tgiasa da Lenn» Restaurant «Fastatsch» In matters culinary, prepare yourself to be spoiled in two different restaurants at the Valbella Inn Resort. In the “Capricorn” restaurant they off er a colorful selection of gastronomic delights. After a day in the snow, we were hankering for meat and that made the «Fastatsch» restaurant specializing in grilled dishes, our choice for dinner. Fancy beef filet with fries “in the bag” Here, too, comfort and style define the interior. Table setting in the hotel’s Fastatsch restaurant By the way, the «Fastatsch» restaurant has a large sun deck, so that you can enjoying your afternoon coffee and cake before that marvelous mountain vista. View from the Parpaner Rothorn Five floors of wellness in the «Tor da Lenn» You will find Valbella Inn Resort’s wellness area in the «Tor da Lenn» wooden tower. On its five floors you can enjoy a steam room, saunas, salt or ice peels and rest on warmed loungers. On the open roof deck is the panoramic sauna’s cold water tub. But since we ourselves tend to be toe-dippers, we left this part to the more thick-skinned types. Of course, you can let yourself be spoiled from a large menu of nourishing facial and body treatments. The wellness tower by the way has an underground connection with the «Tschasa da Lenn» that was very convenient for us. Guests residing in the main house or in the «Fastatsch» are (regrettably) exposed to the weather and need to wear boots and coats to achieve wellness, which does not strike us as a bit inconvenient. However, host Thomas Vogt assured us that one of their next projects will be to connect all houses by underground passages. Lenzerheide – sports and recreation paradise The Lenzerheide offers many sports and leisure options year-round, from mountain walks or a round of golf in beautiful natural surroundings during the summer to downhill and cross country skiing and sledding in the winter. Valbella wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("eyjk5ogxpu", { videoFoam: true }); In January 2014, the Urdenbahn aerial tramway started operating, coupling Arosa and Lenzerheide into a single winter sports area. It made Arosa-Lenzerheide the largest linked ski area in Graubünden and placed it among Switzerland’s Top 10 winter sports regions! The Lenzerhorn seen from the Parpan Rothorn See more images of the Valbella Inn Resort and surrounding Graubünden Alps with Lenzerhorn and the Parpan Rothorn in our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157642424072254″ type=”gallery”] If our review piqued your curiosity about prices and availability: you can check them here. Our thanks go to… … The extremely friendly host Thomas Vogt for the delicious dinner. He seems to have a flair for being able to remember the names of his guests. He was pretty sure that Walter had often stayed at the Valbella Inn. He did not – but my brother did and he pretty much looks like Walter! ## Entre Cielos – Under heavenly skies Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/entre-cielos-heavenly-skies What do you get when three Swiss families emigrate to Argentina? Entre Cielos, a boutique hotel at the foot of the Andes with its own hammam, wine loft and vineyard. This article was published in SWISS International Airlines’ board Magazine March 2014 issue on Sao Paulo. We feel flattered ;-) March issue of SWISS’ board magazine featuring our article on Entre Cielos Cécile Adam and David and Daniela Wäger all shared a vision: to create their own paradise on earth. The only question was where. Various locations – France, Thailand, Panama, Uruguay – were considered and rejected. From l. to r.: Founders and co-proprietors Cécile Adam and David Wäger, creative director Daniela Wäger and construction coordinator Philipp Schwegler; Photo © Entre Cielos In the end they opted for the famed Mendoza wine region in Argentina: partly because it was the only part of the Country with a growing tourism sector and a limited selection of luxury accommodations, and partly because it’s just a truly beautiful area. Spectacular view of the Andes, surrounded by grapevines Argentina, aquí vamos! And so, in August 2009, the three partners bought a plot of local land and moved together with their families – 14 people and a containerful of possessions – to Argentina. What’s even more amazing is that while the threesome were certainly talented individuals, none of them had any previous experience in either winegrowing or the hotel trade. All they had to take this courageous step was a passionate enthusiasm for both activities. Surrounded by grapevines, the wine loft offers guests an especially futuristic experience The location the trio chose for their new venture – in a suburb of Mendoza, on excellent Malbec terroir, in the midst of a vineyard with fruit trees and poplars and an open view of the Andes – gave them the firmest of foundations for their small luxury hotel. All they needed now for their 100 x 800-metre plot (complete with an abandoned old winery) were concrete plans. Here the team had very clear ideas. For the winegrowing side they secured the services of oenologist Hubert Weber, a Swiss national who had been living in Argentina for the previous 15 years. But to turn their building plans into reality they opted for local architects. In an ultra-short tender process of just 48 hours, it was the small practice of A4estudio that prevailed: the contemporary leanings of its two innovative directors, who drew their inspiration from the sculpted concrete blocks of artist Donald Judd, swayed the Swiss at once. Entre Cielos’ suite terrace Tough times When it came to the construction, the venture saw its toughest times. Dividing the Project into a conceptual and an implementation phase was about the only conventional Thing about it! co-lead architect Juan Manuel Filice recalls. The Swiss clients’ high demands proved a real challenge for the Argentinians. The family spent seven days a week at the site, following the work in every detail. I remember the famous ‘Monday meetings’ Juan Manuel smiles. “We could always talk things over during the week; but they used to make a huge list of all the changes and other things they weren’t happy with over the weekend!” Architect Juan Manuel Filice explains the concept The language was a further obstacle. The family members would speak Swiss-German to each other; the project leaders would communicate with the architects in English; and the architects would issue the instructions in Spanish to their workers and suppliers. Not surprisingly, drawings and diagrams often proved an equally (if not more) effective way of getting meanings across. Comprende!? A range of visualization to facilitate the communication “Looking back,” Juan Manuel Filice recalls, “I think they were the most demanding clients we’ve ever had.” But the extremely tight deadlines and the intensive collaboration also proved an invaluable experience for the young architectural team, and one that they have since been able to channel into other projects as well. Juan Manuel remembers the famous “monday Meetings” Entre Cielos – Viviendo la vida By 2011 the site had been transformed into the unique Entre Cielos boutique hotel, with its 15 individual suites, exclusive wine loft, two restaurants, swimming pool and whirlpool. There’s even a hammam, too, making it the first traditional hamam spa in the whole of Latin America. The name is well chosen: Entre Cielos really is a little bit of heaven on earth. Nestling cosily amid the vines, it offers every imaginable comfort for viviendo la vida – coming, relaxing and enjoying life’s sensual luxuries. The spectacular wine loft The place has already won numerous awards. It was selected as 2012’s Best New Boutique Hotel in the World, beating off strong international competition; and it was also named Winner of Travellers’ Choice, Best Boutique Hotel in South America and Sensuous Spa for 2013. Congratulations! Read our detailed review here and get some more impressions from our stay at this all stylish boutique hotel! ## Posh W Verbier — W Hotels’ first Mountain Hideaway Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/w-hotel-verbier-swiss-ski-resort The Starwood hotel group proudly runs “W Verbier” – their first alpine escape. Verbier is an internationally renowned ski resort in the heart of the Swiss Alps. The hotel is the first of its kind in Switzerland, setting new standards with the design-led lifestyle-brand. We had a close look, check out our video review! W Hotels boasts a global portfolio of design hotels. Their venues are mainly to be found in vibrant cities or in exotic holiday destinations. But with the W Verbier, the hotel chain now opened its first-ever alpine and ski retreat. Given our soft spot for W Hotels – we already reviewed several other W Hotels before – and also due to our Swiss home base it was an obvious one we simply HAD to see the new member of the W Hotel family. W Verbier – like its peers – offers stylish, energetic spaces. Its design is an elegant fusion of classic alpine style (earthy, natural elements like exposed timber) and urban chic (glass and polished marble). W Hotel in Verbier Shortly before arriving in Verbier by gondola, you will easily discover four modern, chalet type buildings on the right-hand side. Even without having spotted the hotel’s indicative “W” sign, you will instinctively know… this must be it! Ski helmets and W Wow Suites in the background Already when approaching the hotel entrance you will be welcomed by the friendly and attentive staff members who immediately take care of our luggage. And even the carpet at the entrance welcomed us with a “good afternoon”. The same carpet would read “good evening” later on… and you can easily guess what it would say the next morning… The reception is unpretentious, yet stylish and promising. And one can smell W Hotel’s signature scent… this must be an American hype. It reminded us of the Abercrombie & Fitch stores! The only difference is that the staff is fully dressed. Maybe they will spice up this topic in summer? According to the Telegraph there might be an occupancy issue in summer. Anyway… The interior design of the stylish W Living Room, the W brand’s reinterpretation of the traditional lobby space, combines the charm of the Swiss Alps and the coolness of New York. Here’s where you will enjoy cocktails and drinks with a view. W Verbier’s “Living Room” and hotel bar The hotel is located right next to the Verbier cable car and offers ski-to-door access to Mont-Fort (3’330 MAMSL) from where you will enjoy an awe-inspiring view of the mountains around and the famous Matterhorn! Right at the foot of the Verbier slopes, you’ll find the W Off Piste bar where you can get together for a glass of bubbly, an ice-cold beer and signature cocktails with a sizzling DJ on the decks. “Spectacular” rooms at W Verbier Bedside table lamps & decoration W Hotels uses to give their hotel rooms special names. The lowest category starts at “Spectacular“, followed by other categories as promising as “Wonderful” or “Fabulous“. However, the WOW-effect comes with their “WOW suites” or, mind you, the “Extreme WOW suite” (the presidential suite interpretation according to W)… All 123 stylish and spacious guest rooms have a distinct chalet feel to it, with huge outdoor balconies boasting panoramic views of the Swiss mountains. The rooms feature a cosy fireplace and state-of-the-art amenities. Hotel room balcony, view of Verbier The rustic wooden chalet-style interior provides a warm contrast to the sleek and cool furnishings. Watch out for the toilet… it’s hidden away behind a wooden wall. And we also liked the walk-in closet and its Swiss styled hotel safe. Bathroom and shower “Wow Suites” for those who can afford Those among us who can afford the small change should definitely check out the Wow Suites. We heard that those guests typically book the whole floor. Well, they are sure to whisper a “wow” in awe in front of such splendour. Wow Suites are not only huge, but they also feature all the bells and whistles you can imagine, e.g. a king-sized bed on a turntable. Just in case you preferred to watch the mountain scenery instead of the TV… Extreme WOW Suite bedroom with bed on turntable Phew… Needless to say that the renowned Simmons mattress will support your heavenly sleep. (Don’t worry, all rooms feature Simmons mattresses, we double-checked ;-) After you slept here you will want to buy one of those mattresses and guess what, W has an online shop for exactly that! The Wow Suites’ two-level 150 sq. m. or 185 sq. m. in the case of the Extreme Wow Suite boast a spacious living room, a bar, a free-standing bathtub and the likes. You get the picture… If this has you wondering, check out prices and availability here Fine Dining at Arola restaurant “Arola” restaurant is headed by two Michelin-starred Spanish chef Sergi Arola, who specializes in Spanish cuisine and tapas. Sergi creates exciting menus inspired by the abundance of artisanal Swiss products and his Catalan roots. He closely follows the “pica pica” concept including creative interpretations of Swiss classics, served on a platter for all to share. Tapas style. Eggplant with pine nuts and olives at Arola Restaurant Upon recommendation of charming and very attentive waiter Fernando, we opted for the “Chef’s choice menu” – a multi-course dinner with several entrances, main dishes and yummy desserts! Mixed Fish and Shellfish at Arola Restaurant After dinner enjoy a nightcap at the stylish W “Living Room” – or spend a hot night at the hotel’s own buzzing nightclub CARVE! While the barmen wait for their guests to finish their dinner they practice their artistic bottle juggling skills… Carve night club at W Hotl Verbier Hotel W Away Spa and Gym The AWAY Spa (with its 800 sq. m.) features a sauna, hammam and both, outdoor and indoor heated pools as well as nine treatment rooms. The weather was just too nice to test the treatments since we stayed on the slopes all day long… Ski area “Les 4 Vallées” and Mont Fort Verbier is considered one of the best ski destinations in Europe. Within its renowned “Les 4 Vallées/Mt-Fort” ski area, you can enjoy up to 410 kilometres of ski runs! From December until the end of April you will find the perfect conditions to enjoy your winter ski holiday. By the way, the W Hotel is conveniently located next to the main cable car, with direct access to the marvellous ski area around Mont Fort. Mont-Fort cable car in the Swiss Alps Check out prices and availability here. And ABC Real Estate has more on Verbier’s best tourist spots. Check them out! We say thank you to… … Inge Herzer from Young & Rubicam Group Geneva who organized our visit. “Muchas gracias” also to Spanish concierge Miguel and waiter Fernando for the friendly and attentive service! We liked the alpine themed W Verbier and its innovative lifestyle experience a lot. Well done! On this trip we teamed up with the travel bloggers Mamiko & Dimitri of Newly Swissed. Enjoy their own review! More W hotels… As mentioned before we have a weakness for W Hotels. So far we visited other W Hotels in Santiago de Chile, Barcelona, Istanbul and Singapore. All of them are worth a visit! Check out our respective travelogues ;-) ## Tested: The new Sheraton Hotel in vibrant Zurich West Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/sheraton-hotel-zurich-west New hotels are sprouting up like mushrooms from the ground of what once was the Zurich West industrial district! This time we tested the Sheraton Zurich West open since January 2014. There is little that it does not offer its guests! Having already showcased the Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel in 2011 and the 25hours Zurich West in 2012, this time we turned to the newest landmark in Zurich’s trendsetter neighborhood for the next in our series: The Sheraton Hotel Zurich West located on Pfingstweidstrasse 100 in the new Hard Turm Park high rise, where it is right at home among the area‘s other upmarket lodgings. Zurich West – Zurich’s new trendsetter neighborhood Where industrial enterprises once stood, now new hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs and theater impart a happening “multiculti charm.” About Sheraton Hotel Zurich West The hotel’s lobby is furnished elegantly, with the artificial fire pit and sitting areas in tastefully coordinated colors creating a fine ambiance. Sheraton-Zurich-West-Hotelreview wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("qhu2ygb87e", { videoFoam: true }); Just off the lobby Link @ Sheraton, there is a free Internet lounge with state-of-the art PCs by Lenovo and Microsoft. Internet lounge Link@Sheraton Apropos Internet…in-room WiFi is available, but to be charged extra for it does seem a bit anachronistic. Spacious rooms and suites The 197 modern, spacious rooms and suites are warm, bright and furnished in style. At 31 m2 even the standard category room is comparatively large! If you prefer something (still) more spacious, you can book a Sheraton Executive Room (38 m2) or step up to a suite… Club room on the 10th floor with the standard Sweet Sleeper bed. Incidentally, the” Club rooms ” and “ Club suites ” are located on the 9th and 10th floors. with simultaneous access to the exclusive Sheraton Club lounge with its comfortable seating groups and work stations, free WiFi for unlimited network connectivity and complimentary food and beverage service throughout the day. After all, this is a Sheraton… To top it off, from up here you get a breathtaking view of the pulsating Westend! Walter in the Club Lounge pretending to be absorbed in the local Neue Zürcher Zeitung newspaper The spacious bathroom has a walk-in shower with rain shower head , with a glass wall that lets you look into the room. For privacy, you simply pull a frosted glass wall over it. Along with the bathroom’s generous dimensions, we were very impressed by its stylishly curved Grohe fixtures. Spacious bathroom with walk-in shower By the way, in Sheraton Hotels you sleep on Sweet Sleeper® beds for a deeeep and restful sleep, as the name implies! Should you want to have a read in bed before turning in, you will marvel at the bedside reading lights: let into both ends of the headboard, they swing out and swivel. Soon as you master these designer touches, you are ready for a sweet reading experience… Stylish reading light with swivel head. Information about prices and availabilitiescan be found under zimmerpreise.reisememo.ch. Restaurant “Route Twenty-Six” No, the Sheraton restaurant’s name is not intended to evoke Route 66, at least not directly. Rather, it alludes to a different, in this case symbolic route through the 26 Swiss cantons and the culinary specialties that each presents. Table setting in Route Twenty Six In the open show kitchen, the chefs star as they dish up sizzling fish, meat and vegetarian delicacies from the 26 Swiss cantons: sliced veal Zurich style, veal sausage from Appenzell, or Graubünden-style capuns, to name just a few. We went for the Lake Zurich scallops (…) and an Angus filet with EXCEPTIONAL forest mushroom-sweet potato ragout. Scallops on pureed peas with Appenzell smoked sausage And this was preceded by an appetizer in the form of a fried quail egg, a starter that says “hello from the kitchen” Fried quail egg as appetizer Yummy pancakes for breakfast – made fresh! In contrast to Route Twenty Six, in the NUOVO Café & Bar it’s life Italianità style. Dominating here are Italian coffee, antipasti, exquisite pasta and, of course, a list of Italian wines. NUOVO hotel bar Every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 5 – 7 p.m. during the Sheraton “social hour,” you can savor Mediterranean delicacies together with fine wines at the attractive price of CHF 13.50. This is bound to turn the long bar into the new neighborhood hangout. Achieving that status will take some doing, for there is no lack of competition, with Sphère, La Salle, Viadukt, and the Renaissance Hotel nearby, and, right next door, the 25hours Hotel– and that’s just the competition when the weather is bad. When the sun shines, add the Limmat River, Turbine Square, or the Josefswiese Park to the mix, not to mention the Upper and Lower Letten public swimming pools or the Werdinsel island recreation area… See more image impressions of the Sheraton Zurich West in our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157641892145624″ type=”gallery”] With thanks to… Many thanks for the generous invitation to Christina Roesle, Director of Sales, and Imke Bremer, Public Relations for the Sheraton Zurich West Hotel! We were delighted to test your hotel. ;-) ## City trip to Stuttgart – Culture, Lifestyle and Innovation Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/city-trip-stuttgart-culture-lifestyle-innovation When I think of Stuttgart, what always comes to mind first are the festive Christmas market and the 215-meter high television tower. But Baden-Württemberg’s capital actually has much more to offer… Despite its half million inhabitants, Stuttgart still has something of a bucolic feel to it. This is probably due in part to the numerous parks and green spaces scattered throughout the city. But it could also be the easygoing Swabian temperament that makes you feel like you’re not in a hectic (big) city. Nevertheless, the Swabian metropolis radiates an urban lifestyle with lots of fine restaurants and impressive sights. Stuttgart also has a good deal to offer in the way of culture. Ms. Gerken of Stuttgart Marketing took us on an entertaining guided tour to show us the typical highlights and more… Stuttgart – Culture, lifestyle and innovation Stuttgart center lies in the “cauldron, “as Stuttgarters like to say, being surrounded by vineyards and valleys, hence also the slogan “Between forest and vines”. Cultural attractions abound in the city. However, the Schlossplatz (Palace Square) is at the very heart of the city and must of course be included in any stroll through the city. It is lined with magnificent buildings and heritage sites that are easy to explore on foot. Among the most important are two palaces with a great past : the Old Palace and the New Palace and then there is the State Theatre and Opera House . Duke Christoph memorial in Stuttgart’s Old Palace But the capital of Baden-Württemberg can be worthwhile even for non-culture hounds. For one thing, Stuttgart is a shopping paradise without equal. From Königsstrasse through the Königsbau passage on to the Breuninger department store – every shopping heart will find its object(s) of desire here… Merz & Benzing Lifestyle Shop Under no circumstances should you miss the Markthalle covered market place! Feast your eyes on the lively market place activity, savor the wonderful aroma of oriental spices or even buy some of the fresh regional products or exotic delicacies… it’s a fantastic place! Stuttgart’s Markthalle Butcher’s counter in Stuttgart’s Markthalle And, of course, the subject of the automobile is everywhere in the air in Stuttgart. In the Porsche Museum and the Mercedes-Benz Museum, the city has two spectacular automobile-centered exhibitions. With their world-class products, the two legendary automakers still today continue to set the standard for innovative technology and functional elegance here. We described the unique experience we had driving the first automobile ever made at Stuttgart’s Mercedes-Benz Museum here in word and video. Mercedes-Benz F400 Carving Steigenberger Hotel Graf Zeppelin in Stuttgart’s Center On this trip to the city, we lodged right in the heart of Stuttgart in the Hotel Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin. The location could not be better; the already-mentioned points of interest as well as the U-Bahn subway and S-Bahn rapid transit trains are just a few minutes’ walk away. Elaborate vases in the lobby of the Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin Hotel Opulent smoker’s lounge Along with an opulent smoking lounge by Davidoff, the lobby lounge also invites guests to linger and enjoy; in the afternoon, they serve supremely seductive small tortes along with the coffee… Delicious small mango pie The 5 star luxury hotel was completely renovated in 2011 and now has 155 elegant, modern rooms, a rooftop terrace with indoor pool and a day spa wellness center, including a terrific Spa Suite! The cozy romantic spa suite As expected, they have hotel slippers for their guest. I always appreciate it very much when these come not just in universal size (+/ – shoe size 41!) but smaller as they do here at the Steigenberger for the rather more diminutive female feet. Yesss! Bathroom slippers in various sizes! The guests’ physical well-being is further looked after in the OLIVO gourmet restaurant, where they will spoil diners with French and world cuisine, while in Zeppelino’S various grill combinations are on this restaurant’s menu. And anyone who wants to stay “close to home” can savor Swabian specialties in the “Little Zeppelin Room”. Table setting in the Olivo gourmet restaurant More images taken at this noble hotel are on view in our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157641573293573″ type=”gallery”] The Cube Restaurant – The restaurant on top of the Art Museum In the heart of the city the imposing glass cube – situated on the Schlossplatz – draws all eyes to it; the Stuttgart Art Museum. On the building’s top floor is where you find the glass-wrapped Cube Restaurant. View from Restaurant Cube The atmosphere is correspondingly unique and you have a fantastic view of Stuttgart’s center. On offer are tasty daily lunch menus and they serve coffee and cake in the afternoons. The doings in the evening after the museum doors have closed are supposed to be still more exclusive. For our part, in the evening we let ourselves be treated to delightful cuisine at the Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars. Click here for a detailed gourmet report and the interview with star Chef René Bobzin. By SBB train to Stuttgart We took the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) train in comfort and arrived relaxed in Stuttgart. The direct Intercity train (IC) departs Zurich several times a day for the 3:05 hour trip to the Swabian metropolis. Stuttgart’s own transport system is efficient, with many S-Bahn trains, tram and bus lines that make getting around in the city on public transit very easy. However, the central train station is currently a large construction site and has achieved notoriety because of a rail project to turn the present rail terminus into a mere through station. There are still weekly demonstrations in protest against the controversial decision. Stuttgart’s train station tower with the Mercedes-Benz star Actually, the 56 meter tall train station tower with the rotating Mercedes star on it is another symbol of the city… like “my” TV tower back home, currently closed for fire safety improvements, and not slated to reopen until early summer of 2015. After this weekend, we had to admit to ourselves that Stuttgart is completely underappreciated. The city and its region present themselves with a versatility that deserves better than just a single trip – even if it’s not Christmas market season! Our thanks to…… Oliver Sefrin, head of Press and Public Relations of the German National Tourist Board (DZT) in Zurich und Sandra Nörpel with Stuttgart Marketing for the invitation and flawless organizing of the trip! Many thanks also to the Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin Hotel, andCarolin Münch for the informative tour of the hotel, and Ms. Gerkens for the interesting and entertaining city tour! And last but not least, we thank “our” SBB for the punctual and comfortable train journey, the insane panorama of the Rhine Falls, and the delicious “Latte Macchiato”! I know – it’s not to be had on the train, but with double cream, a little good will and the spiffy service, it was so much like the real deal you almost fooled even me ;-) ## Easter Escape in Awe-Inspiring Santorini Source: https://travelmemo.com/greece/santorini-island-easter-escape Easter is the time to embark on a cultural quest for a genuine spiritual experience with your beloved ones. As fascinating and spiritual as it gets the island of Santorini welcomes you to celebrate this glorious season of the year with the Greek rituals of the Passion Week. Prepare to penetrate into the depths of the Hellenic tradition and heritage as the Passion Week unveils day by day in the awe-inspiring island of Santorini. The island of Santorini can be reached by air or sea from Athens and most of the Greek islands. Plan your transfer ahead and get ready to follow the trails of Greek Easter. Holy Monday Spend your first day on the island becoming acquainted with the dramatic volcanic backdrop and the mesmerizing Caldera. Loose yourself in the winding cliff paths, embrace the mystique atmosphere as you breathe in the elegant fragrance of spring flower aromas and spicy scents of frankincense. Attend one of the liturgies which are held in all the picturesque churches of the island and observe how the Passion Week begins. Witness the whitewashing of fences and home exteriors, the painting of flower pots in the red color of passion and the detoxification of the body as some pilgrims still choose to be fed only with bread and water until the end of the week. If fasting is not your cup of tea there are many exceptional traditional and gourmet restaurants to choose from for a true culinary experience. Best Restaurants: Kokkino Podilato, 1800, Ambrosia, Archipelago, Nikolas Holy Tuesday Holy Tuesday is the quietest day of the week and a great opportunity for you to discover the secret wonders of Santorini. Embark on an island tour by sail boat or a private luxury yacht, visit every volcanic beach, every secret cove and scuba dive into the crystalline waters of the Aegean. Best Beaches: Perissa, Kamari, Perivolos, Vlihada and Red Beach. Best Attractions: Volcano, Ancient Thira, Wineries, Archeological site of Akrotiri and Zoodohos Pigi Cave. Holy Wednesday Attend the liturgy commemorating Christ’s anointing with myrrh with the priest anointing the faithful with holy oil. Throughout the day visit the scenic villages of Santorini, walk the winding streets, pass the traditional canaves on a donkey and unwind in a Cliffside café overlooking the Aegean. Best Café Bars: Sun Spirit, Kastro, Crystal, Classico, Mylos, Enigma Top Villages: Oia, Fira, Imerovigli, Kamari, Perissa, Firostefani, Pyrgos, Akrotiri Holy Thursday On Holy Thursday every church holds a symbolic representation of the crucifixion while the pilgrims are preparing for the resurrection with their local rituals, the baking of the sweet brioche-bread (tsoureki) and the red dying of eggs symbolizing rebirth. As the day unfolds relax and enjoy a cocktail as you marvel the world’s most renowned sunset. Best Cocktail Bars: Sun Spirit, Katharos Lounge, Vertigo Top Sunsets: Oia, Faros in Akrotiri, Fira, Firostefani and Skaros in Imerovigli. Holy Friday Holy Friday is the holiest day of the week and a must not miss ritual is the procession of the “epitafios”, the symbolic bier of Christ at the mountain-top village of Pyrgos. The thousand lit candles add even more glow to the already majestic atmosphere of Santorini, passing through all streets of all villages as the procession is held in all main villages of the island and all the lights of every home of every neighbourhood are lit creating the most spectacular scenery definitely worth observing. Holy Saturday On Saturday night make sure to attend the midnight liturgy at the monastery of Prophet Elias to witness The Rise of Christ. The Priest passes the Holy Flame to the pilgrims, they all cheer and wish each other Christos Anesti (Christ is Risen). As the villagers walk back to their houses carrying their lit candles all streets are filled with light. In the island of Santorini it is a custom to enjoy the flavoursome “sgardoumia soup” and “meletinia” treats as their dessert. As soon as the dinner is served the red eggs are distributed to everyone sitting around the table and they all try to crack each other’s eggs by knocking them together as the one egg that is left intact in the end shows who is going to be the lucky member of the family until next year’s challenge. Easter Sunday The day of celebration has arrived. The roasting of the lamb and the kokoretsi roast begin with the dawn of the day. As soon as the roasts are ready the Easter feast begins with traditional music and local Santorinian wine. Traditional or glamorous, Easter in Santorini can be enjoyed in any way you choose! So all you need to do is arrange your transfer, pick your luxury hotel in Santorini and get ready to enjoy an authentic Greek Easter in one of the most amazing destinations the world has ever known. ## Gourmet Menu in a Car Museum – the Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/gourmet-menu-mercedes-benz-museum From February 4 – 9, 2014, the top floor of the Mercedes-Benz Museum in Stuttgart transformed into a gourmet restaurant. Since 2008, the Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars belongs among established meeting places for lovers of the finest cuisine and the event has become an integral part of the museum‘s calendar. We took a careful look into the saucepans… Twice a year – in spring and autumn – top chefs from around the world on the invitation of Mercedes-Benz do some top-level cooking for their guests – on the ninth and top level of the Mercedes-Benz Museum, to be exact. In a prelude to the actual Nights of the Stars , guests are squired down the red carpet to an aperitif in the cocktail lounge. Next came a short but highly fascinating tour of the car museum after which everyone was asked to table in luxurious and elegant ambiance. Sternennaechte-Mercedes-Benz-Museum wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("tchhpkm763", { videoFoam: true }); In a separate review, we reported on the dramatic exhibition. And on our test drive in the Benz Patent Motor Car, the very first automobile ever built… A culinary evening in a class of its own It began with a beetroot macaroon appetizer served with smoked eel and salmon with avocado. The mere sight of it got the mouth to watering… Beetroot macaroon appetizer served with smoked eel and salmon And it only got better! An amuse-bouche consisting of a festive rabbit three ways materialized next, and then things really got going with a 5-course “Usedom Island menu” by star Chef René Bobzin… A variety of local wines accompanied the mouth-watering menu. The friendly waiter took us on a veritable wine tour of Germany. We were pleasantly surprised! So surprised in fact that we take the trouble of repeating here the names of the noble vintages for anyone who wants to go on the “tour” ;-) Zander winter purslane, goat yogurt and lemon The 2012 Scheurebe QbA from Saxony got the wines off to a brilliant start! Scallop with sea beans, melon und peanut With it came a 2012 Silvaner quality wine from Franken. Fortunately, the scallop is star Chef René Bobzin‘s favorite seafood – for it is mine as well ;-) He followed up these promising starters with a Baltic cod on Pomeranian asparagus – black salsify root to us mere mortals – calf’s head and truffles as the “main fish course. “ Baltic cod on Pomeranian asparagus, calf’s head and truffles accompanied by a 2012 Grauburgunder quality wine from the Palatinate Then it was on to the main meat course: Supplied by a regional grower, it was tail of rump of Pomeranian beef with Mecklenburg pineapple (turnip) and béchamel potatoes. Pomeranian beef with Mecklenburg pineapple (turnip) and béchamel potatoes The Cuvée Nr. 1 QbAdry from Baden complemented it extaordinarily well! Came dessert time, and our senses were already so numbed that my photographer missed getting a really good shot of the dried fruit with nougat, mandarin orange and cardamom. We make do here by assuring ou readers that it rounded out the divine meal perfectly… The “light” ending chocolate from the Kaiser Spa Hotel zur Post establishment then dotted the “i” at coffee time. (The coffee helped reanimate the photographer. The camera exposure, however, was still a little on the dark side…) Chocolate ball dessert at the Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars in Stuttgart Star Chef René Bobzin’s artistic handiwork Stirring more masterfully: Chef René BobzinUsually René Bobzin cooks in the gourment restaurant Kaiser Spa Hotel zur Post on the Baltic island of Usedom. Naturally, he specializes in fish and shellfish. They continually inspire him to new creative heights. For anyone seized by a craving: Here you will find prices and availability for the Kaiser Spa Hotel zur Post. In 2002, René Bobzin was celebrated as “Discovery of the Year ” by the Gault Millau gourmet guide. Just in his first year as chef, he received an astounding 16 points! Not bad at all! In 2005, the passionate chef was awarded his first Michelin star for the state of Saxony-Anhalt. Congratulations! The next Nights of the Starts in the fall of 2014 The Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars are open to the public and take place in the second half of the year for an entire two weeks from November 18 – 30, 2014. One of the star chefs has already been booked for November: Rolf Fliegeauf from the Swiss Giardino Ascona or Giardino Mountain in St. Moritz will swing the cooking spoons during one of the weeks. Fliegauf’s cooking earned him two Michelin stars each in ECCO in Ascona and in ECCO ON SNOW in St. Moritz. We wrote about our visit to Giardino Mountain as follows and also took pictures. From our report on Giardino Mountain The mystery of the second star chef’s identity will soon be solved… Making early reservations is definitely worth it regardless! All information about prices and reservation chances can be found on the Nights of the Stars website of the Mercedes-Benz Museum. This time, we took up quarters within sight of Stuttgart’s central train station in the Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin It is just a few minutes from there to the Mercedes-Benz Museum, if need be even by public transport. But, of course, we couldn’t pass up the chance to take the hotel’s e-mobility Panamera for a spin… E-Mobility Porsche Anyone in search of still more gourmet experience will do well to reserve a table in the hotel’s restaurant “Olivio” … Table setting in the “Olivio” gourmet restaurant You will find more images from the spectacular car museum in our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157641002972784″ type=”gallery”] Our thanks go to… …Mercedes-Benz … for the generous invitation! Friederike Valet and Mareen Hoeppner have put together an overwhelming program… Warm thanks also to Ingrid Feiler , the Mercedes-Benz project manager for Nights of the Stars, and Sandra Nörpel of with Stuttgart-Marketing for the organizing and the cheerful company ;-) A big thank you to also to Oliver Sefrin , head of Press and Public Relations for the German National Tourist Board (DZT) for arranging this visit. It was an once-in-a-lifetime experience! ## Mercedes-Benz Museum – A Passion for Horsepower Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/mercedes-benz-museum-passion-horsepower The Mercedes-Benz Museum showcases more than 125 years of automotive history. 160 glittering, shiny vehicles compete on nine levels to stir the gasoline in your veins …in our case especially, because they let us take the first car ever made dating from 1886 for a test drive! But let’s take it one step at a time: Opened in 2006 by Daimler Chrysler, the Mercedes-Benz Museum is a stand-out first because of its unusual architecture . Just like his client, the Dutch architect Ben van Berkel largely did away with corners and edges in building this double helix structure . The museum’s shell is constructed mostly of materials the automotive industry also uses: glass and aluminum . The building succeeds with a convincing exterior and an interior that gets out of the way to let the cars be the show. No wonder then that it has been heaped with major architecture prizes… Exterior of the Mercedes-Benz Museum © Daimler AG Mercedes-Benz Museum – The fascination of technology The starting point for viewing the car exhibition is actually on the eighth floor. You float up to those lofty heights in one of the eye catching retro-look lifts that let you glimpse the different epochs as you rise past the respective levels dedicated to them. On the left, Gottlieb Daimler‘s motor carriage; on the right, Carl Benz' Patent Motor Car Wandering down the sloping circular ramp through the exhibitions is like taking a unique stroll through time as the automotive history of Mercedes-Benz unrolls, one legend after the other, all in chronological order! Also a success is how the automotive history integrates with the historical context: Large format wall charts illustrate world events during a given era. It’s all here, the glamor and the glory, from the Beatles to Einstein. Mercedes 300 SL Gullwing Besides the previously mentioned legend rooms the exhibition is also split into collection spaces for thematically displaying the abundance and variety of vehicles bearing the Gottlieb Daimler and Carl Benz logos. Walk down either double helix, or you end up in the exhibit “Silver arrows – Racing and Records“. Positioned on a banked curve are legendary record-breaking cars: the Phoenix race car, Lightning Benz, Silver Arrows, White Elephants (nickname given the super-heavy S-series race cars) all the way to Lewis Hamilton’s 2008 Formula 1 World Championship racer. Formula-1 Silver Arrows in the Mercedes-Benz Museum DTM racer on the Museum’s banked curve If you ever wondered, by the way, what the three points on the “Mercedes star” are all about: The three-pointed star symbolized Gottlieb Daimler‘s efforts toward universal motorization “on land, in water and in the air“. Mercedes star and exhaust pipes in the Mercedes Benz Museum And further, the brand can thank the daughter of the wily race car driver and Daimler dealer Emil Jellinek for the “Mercedes” name: It was he who prodded Daimler’s chief engineer Wilhelm Maybach (also have a familiar ring?) to build a race car instead of the then-typical “motorized horse buggies. “ That first “Mercedes“ with its robust 40 horsepower engine totally crushed the competition in the 1901 “Nizza (Nice) Racing Week“… The sporty “Mercedes” Simplex 40 PS, so-named after the daughter of Daimler dealer Emil Jellinek And just to conclude the story of the name: The engine and design pioneer Carl Benz was the leading car maker until about 1900, when Daimler overtook him; and then, in 1926, the two merged their companies into Daimler-Benz AG. The Benz Patent Motor Car – the world’s first gasoline-powered automobile And here we go: During our visit we agreed to the challenge of passing the driving test in the 1886 Benz Patent Motor Car… This “three wheeler” was the world’s very first gasoline car and represents the birth of the automobile! Test pilot Walter with the Benz Patent Motor Car Carl Benz designed his motor car with three wheels, because he was not happy with the steering systems that were standard in four-wheeled vehicles of the time. The double-pivot steering system that he developed and first patented seven years later is still in use today. So that we would be allowed to drive this motorbike, which actually is a velocipede, we of course had to first pass a written test. That’s because driving such a legendary car – even one that only gets up to 12 mph – takes know-how! After all, you need to know what to do if the 0.9 horsepower engine should overheat. Its impressive fuel economy of 10 liters of benzine (petroleum naphtha) and need for 100 liters of cooling water for each 100 kilometers driven does present some unusual challenges when all is said and done… Benz-Patent-Motorwagen-Museum wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("5ktskdlnil", { videoFoam: true }); What a gas! And here’s the proof: I am now one of the few to have driven the first car in the world! My newest driver’s license for when I hit the road in the Benz Motor Car (Post script for my environmentally conscious sister: No, I still don’t own a car!) The Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars Frankly, we didn’t travel to Stuttgart just for thrills in the curves, but for the gourmet Nights of the Stars, the latest edition of the exclusive Mercedes-Benz Nights of the Stars held from February 4- 9, 2014. Two times a year, Mercedes Benz transforms its car museum into a first-rate gourmet temple. One top chef at a time hosts a culinary extravaganza on the top floor that silences any and all engine noise! We report on this “must try” experience with all the spicy details here . You can find more images of the Mercedes-Benz Museum in our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157641002972784″ type=”gallery”] Our thanks go to… … Friederike Valet and Mareen Hoeppner with the Mercedes-Benz Museum for organizing our trip! We also extend warm thanks to Dietmar Gustke, Michaela Baumgarten, and Mark Scheerer for giving us the unique experience with the Benz three-wheeler! Our knees are still shaking ;-) What stayed with us from the test drive as well as the museum tour during the Nights of the Stars: Staff members of the Mercedes-Benz Museum seem to have gasoline in their blood. With obvious passion and motoring proclivity these professionals know how to impart to their guests the enthusiasm they feel for “their” cars. Bravo, great job! Many thanks also to Oliver Sefrin, head of Press and Public Relations in the German National Tourist Board (DZT) in Zurich und Sandra Nörpel of Stuttgart Marketing for the impeccable organization and support during this trip! ## Alpine Luxury and Designer Spa at the Zhero Hotel Kappl Source: https://travelmemo.com/austria/alpine-luxury-designer-spa-zhero-hotel-kappl Only a few kilometers from fashionable Ischgl lies Kappl, a family-friendly snow paradise. Here in the Paznaun Valley stands the modern and avantgarde Zhero Hotel with its captivating architecture. We recently visited this Design hotel and let ourselves be delighted gastronomically by, among others, the meat sommelier (!) … Opened in December 2012, the Zhero Hotel is situated in the Paznaun Valley just outside the village of Kappl and only 4 km from the lifestyle and sports center of Ischgl. The stylish hotel, bearing the logo of a “Design Hotels“, stands out dramatically with its impressive architecture and a façade of glass, wood and stone from the other village buildings. Nighttime façade of the Zhero Hotel Design Hotel Zhero Luxury, comfort, and avantgarde lifestyle sum up the Hotel Zhero philosophy. This is why it offers not only an exclusive designer lounge and bar, but also a luxury boutique and a stylish spa. The Zhero’s lounge with fireplace Despite a recondite and rather cool interior, you immediately feel at ease thanks to the comfortable furnishings and modern ambiance. In the lounge, the fur throws in front of the fireplace smell pleasantly of cedar wood. The 78 guest rooms (divided into ten different categories) live up to the highest design standards and are also appointed in noble native materials like wood, stone and glass. Hotel room with special luminaires Especially deserving of mention is the bathroom’s open shower! Very special… even if it is a bit profligate with half the water splashing away. But it makes for a more heady sense of freedom when you are under the shower. Or should we say liberating? Open shower in a Zhero Hotel guest room Professionally responsible for the interior design is Jens Liebhauser, founder and owner of the Zhero Hotel. You even find pieces of furniture throughout the hotel that are his own creations! Toque-level Cuisine A highlight of the hotel is the first-rate dinner. Star chef Klaus Brunmayr uses his 15 years’ experience in Michelin award-winning restaurants for pampering his guests at the highest level. Table in the Zhero Grill restaurant The restaurant is best known for its grilled specialties. So, there was meat sommelier Salvatore (yes, there really are MEAT sommeliers!!!) to explain just about EVERYTHING about the meats available and select ways of preparing them. Briefly pretending that we were vegetarians was just our way of having a little fun ;-) Meat sommelier Salvatore On Salvatore’s professional recommendation, we opted for a T-bone steak from Tyrolean grass-fed cattle.It came with an exquisite red wine sauce and crisp asparagus as the vegetable. Delectable! T-bone steak filet with vegetable But first we let ourselves be transported by exquisite appetizers; a vitello tonnato with tuna on red beets (beetroot) and white tomato foam as well as a delicious lobster salad. Delightful! Lobster salad and vitello tonnato Zhero Wellness & Spa Another highlight at the Zhero is the remarkably stylish spa area with assorted saunas, a steam bath, two Kneipp basins and an indoor pool. Here also, the refined architecture and gentle light from very special lamps are superlatives. It is all somehow reminiscent of the Vals thermal bath. Harmonized ambiance by the spa’s pool The Paznaun Valley and its Versatile Ski Areas The Paznaun Valley is surrounded by impressive 3,000 meter peaks of the Silvretta chain, with many summits and glaciers and a diversity of ski areas. Whether you’re into cross country skiing, carving, ski touring, snow hiking or snowboarding – all your winter sport wishes can come true here. The Paznaun not only has in it world-famous Ischgl – one of the most popular winter hot spots – featuring a huge number of hotels and gourmet restaurants, not to speak of the first-rate, giant ski area. The Silvretta Arena features more than 230 kilometers of trails, 40 modern ski lifts and also includes the cross-border Swiss Samnauns. Skier with GoPro camera At the legendary Top of the Mountain concert on the Idalp a very special world star is expected this year! None other than Robbie Williams with his complete Big Band on May 3, 2014 will perform before a mountain backdrop without equal! Wow!!! It promises to be an absolute highlight for guests staying in the Silvretta Arena! A nice-to-know item: The Zhero Hotel provides a free shuttle daily from 08:00 – 23:00 to nearby Ischgl! If you would rather pass on the Ischgl high life and opt for something more compact and down-to-earth, you’ll feel at home in Kappl. The family-friendly ski area of Sunny Mountain Adventure Park with its 40 kilometers of trails and richly varied take-offs promises a heavenly winter vacation for young and old. The Adventure Park features a variety of beginner lifts especially for the little ones. Even from Sunny Mountain’s mere 2,690 meter altitude, you can take in a splendid panorama of Tyrolean mountain scenery. Mountain station Kappl And not to be outdone, top events are presented here as well for your entertainment. For example, Christina Stürmer, currently the most successful Austrian pop singer will appear live on March 16, 2014 in the Kappl ski area. And for anyone looking for nerve-tingling thrills, on February 22, 2014 the Open Faces Freeride Contest will take place. Well, so break a leg! It’s not as if the Paznaun offers too little in the way of entertainment, lifestyle and cuisine! The valley, incidentally, has the largest concentration of luxury hotel accommodations and gastronomy in Austria! A visit is well worthwhile in all respects… This time, our thanks go to… Beatrice Rössler and Petra Wittmann of PrimCom for brokering and organizing this trip. We also received support from the Paznaun-Ischgl Tourism Association. Many thanks for the hospitality! Warm thanks also to Team Zhero , most of all meat sommelier Salvatore, Massimiliano, our server, and restaurant manager Michael Rock for the terrific dinner service. What a fine experience! More images of Hotel Zhero and the Paznaun Valley are in our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157640424971616″ type=”gallery”] For connoisseurs: Here you will find prices and availability for the Zhero Hotel in Kappl. ## Downtown Manhattan’s highest new residences – 30 Park Place Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-states/downtown-manhattan-residential-skyscraper-30-park-place Lower Manhattan continues to sprout with a new generation of visionary high-rises. The panoply of World Trade Centers represent the commercial side of this building boom. 30 Park Place represents the residential. 30 Park Place – The Project 30 Park Place hotel tower In December last year, ground was broken for 30 Park Place; what will be the tallest residential structure in downtown Manhattan’s Tribeca. When completed in 2016, 30 Park Place will reach 82 stories and 926 feet high. The super-luxury tower will consist of a 189-room Four Seasons Hotel on the first 21 floors, and 157 luxury condominiums on the remaining ones. The majority of private residences will feature 11-foot ceilings, entry foyers and light-flooded living spaces, offering panoramas of NYC’s skyline and New York Harbor. The hotel’s Royal Suite will measure 3,500-square-feet, and no doubt have well-to-do clients clamoring to be among the first to stay there. The Design 30 Park Place is a project of Silverstein Properties, those behind four of the new World Trade Centers (namely 2, 3, 4 and 7), 120 Broadway and 120 Wall Street. Silverstein Properties found their man in Robert A. M. Stern, the American architect currently occupying the position of Dean of the Yale University School of Architecture. Stern is known for his designs that echo previous generations of building. Architect Robert A.M. Stern and Larry Silverstein© SPI Indeed, Stern’s limestone and cast stone tower, and the manner in which 30 Park Place tapers inwards at points, recalls the heyday of New York City skyscraper building, perhaps most notably the Empire State Building. Conversely, 30 Park Place’s slimline frame and green credentials tell you this is very much a contemporary building for the New York City of today. The Amenities Front lobby & staircaseAmenities for a project as tantalizing as 30 Park Place were never likely to disappoint. Guests to the Four Seasons will enjoy fine dining at the in-house restaurant, can let off steam at the spa, fitness center and 75-foot heated indoor pool, and waltz their way around one of the hotel’s ballrooms. The private residences – managed by Fours Seasons – will be accompanied by a pool, fitness center, conservatory, private screening room, children’s room, private dining room and private outdoor space. A landscaped park will provide 30 Park Place residents with further breathing space. The Neighborhood Tribeca has flourished into a trendy neighborhood of boutique galleries, eateries, and bars. Tribeca – New York City Though there are few luxury brands in Tribeca now, that’s changing fast, and 30 Park Place is spearheading the revolution. This is a sentiment echoed by Damon M. Banks, director at DMB Public Relations, New York. He has said Though many will always choose to stay uptown regardless of the hotel options in Lower Manhattan, there is a large number of young and trendy affluent travelers who enjoy the feel and energy felt in the areas of Tribeca and SoHo. The completion of 30 Park Place will herald the beginning of a new wave of affluent young people to the neighborhood as also stated by Luxury Daily. The Real Deal has more photos and here’s what Wikipedia has to say on the project. Trucks at skyscraper construction site Renderings © Silverstein Properties ## Treat yourself – at the Hilton Garden Inn Davos Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hilton-garden-inn-davos Centrally located between Davos-Dorf and Davos-Platz is the Hilton Garden Inn that opened its doors just a year ago. It is the first hotel of the Hilton Garden Inn brand in Switzerland and we were invited to give it a try. The Hilton Garden Inn hotel concept is shaped by the following five principles: Sleep soundly Right away, this first promise made us ecstatic! All beds are equipped with nearly 50 cm thick mattresses and three different kinds of pillows. We slept blissfully, as if on Cloud 9. The rest of the room amenities made us feel even better. A bathroom with Neutrogena cosmetics and large shower head, a balcony with mountain views, and climate control by touch screen heighten the overall comfort. The beds of the Italian Serta bed system ensure a sound sleep Work smart Mid-January is probably not the ideal time for vacationing in Davos, since, along with the military and police, this is when a who’s who in world politics and business comes to Europe’s highest city Europe to cavort at the World Economic Forum (WEF). But if you’re on a business trip, the Hilton Garden Inn, located directly across from the convention center, is the perfect place to stay. Guests get free WiFi throughout the hotel, something that nowadays is taken for granted. But there are also LAN cables for better connections installed on the generous work surfaces in the rooms (quite practical for us travel bloggers.) In the 24 hour Business Center, you can print out last-minute handouts for your meeting in one of the conference rooms. The meeting rooms come equipped with all necessary work and presentation equipment Eat well As the name “The Grill” perhaps suggests, alas you will look in vain for Graubünden specialties on the restaurant’s menu. Instead, variously prepared hearty meat and fish dishes are served. The show kitchen lets you watch your order being prepared. Roast breast of corn-fed spring chicken on bacon sauteed endive with Parmesan gnocchi We found the breakfast buffet especially to our liking. From classic toast, to all sort of muesli to the Belgian waffles, everything that the kitchen has to offer is here for the taking. Those beds having lived up to their promise, we slept in until 9:30 a.m. By that time, the breakfast buffet was no longer photogenic. Treat yourself The lobby is the Hilton Garden Inn’s centerpiece. Here is where it all happens, where you meet for an aperitif at the bar, for a chat or to get some work done while ensconced in the comfortable couches. The bar is incorporated directly into the Hilton Garden Inn lobby The compact mini mart in the lobby not far from the front desk figured in another welcome surprise. On settling into our room, we had noticed the completely empty minibar. That allowed us to fill it with our choices. True to the “treat yourself” concept, in the mini mart get just what you need but at posted prices – no surprise inflated charges. Be it that bottle of wine, a beauty product, or a small ready meal (cooked in the available microwave), the full-of-surprises lobby mini mart has it all. Stay fit For those guests not into winter fun on snow or ice, the Hilton Garden Inn Davos sports a gym, with directly connected spa area that has sauna, infrared cabin, experience shower and steam room. What could be better than getting warm again in the sauna and unwinding thoroughly after a day on the slopes? Any of the spa and beauty treatments can be booked ahead of time. Across from the Hilton Garden Inn Davos, treatments are also available at the eau-là-là wellness oasis. Unfortunately, it was closed during our stay on account of the WEF. Relaxation room in the wellness area of the Hilton Garden Inn Davos Summary The Hilton Garden Inn Davos offers all target groups, from business travelers and winter sports enthusiasts to families the expected comfort at reasonable prices. The hospitable staff is very happy to give advice and help answer any questions. All this helps me forget that they reliably misspelled my name ;-) Many thanks indeed to Marius Gartmann of Grayling for the consideration shown our blog and to Martina Walsoe and Robert Attenberger of the Hilton Garden Inn Davos for their hospitality. ## In SBB comfort to Verbier in Wallis with RailAway Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/sbb-railaway-verbier The Wallis ski area “4 Vallées / Mont Fort” around Verbier promises unlimited sports possibilities and pure snow fun! You can take advantage of the SBB RailAway Combo Passes to reach this winter sports paradise! Because it’s sane take the train…and we tested it: Train departing from Visp station That they recently opened the hip “W” design hotel in Verbier (here is what we wrote in our travel memo) was reason enough to embark on the “long trip” from Zurich to the Wallis. Lugging the usual blogger‘s equipment, including tons of photographic equipment, we got moving – into the train compartment, to be exact. Our luggage for the trip to Verbier Snow’n’Rail – Discounted winter sport offers from SBB Having no desire to get stuck in traffic and wanting to get there stress-free, we decided to go by train. Can anything beat traveling in comfort with a fine breakfast in the SBB bistro car?? Coffee and croissants in the SBB bistro car From left to right, travel bloggers Walter, Dimitri, Katja, and Mamiko. The ride in the bistro compartment evidently turned out to be entertaining and, of course, endless shop talk dominated with four travel bloggers ride the rails together… And there was much to photograph. I believe in Wallis they call it an occupational hazard . The SBB‘s Snow’n’Rail offer In addition, with their Snow’n’Rail packages, the SBB offers Snow’n’Rail package very attractive deals, including 20% discount on a return ticket to Le Chable or Verbier (must be specified when purchasing your ticket) a discounted 1- or 2-day ski pass for the entire region 4 Vallées / Mont Fort (you exchange the voucher at the valley stations!) 15% off at Intersport Rent 30% off on the 1- and 2-day ski passes for children and adolescents (only combined with the Snow’n’Rail offer) That kind of savings can add up… The respective offers are good from the end of November until the end of ski season (depending on snow conditions). Click here for for details of the RailAway “4 Vallées / Mt-Fort” package. Verbier – for snow enthusiasts Besides the new design hotel, picturesque chalets, and the delicious raclette, Verbier has a lot to offer when it comes to ski areas and vistas: View from Mont Fort at 3,300 meters above sea level. In the 4 Vallées/Mont Fort Ski Area , with its 92 lifts and 410 kilometers of ski runs, you can live the sport of skiing to the fullest. Beginners and pros alike will find ideal conditions in an idyllic setting. Modern and efficient ski lifts transport you to peak after peak. And from Mont Fort, at 3,330 meters above sea level, you can enjoy an exceptional and breathtaking 360o panorama , with views of the Matterhorn, Grand Combin and Mont Blanc! 360o panorama from Mont Fort During the five months from early December to late April, pure snow fun reigns supreme in idyllic Verbier. Slopes for every taste and level let snow sports addict hearts beat faster. Ours included! Winter 2014 attractions In Verbier, not only do cool hotels promote cosmopolitan flair but so do international snow sports events. You’ll find all events here. Have fun! Our thanks this time go to … A sincere thank you to Leandro Roder, in charge of communications for RailAway for facilitating this trip! And thanks to our fellow bloggers from Newly Swissed for the RailAway contact referral and for being good train companions ;-) ## Winter Wonderland in Braunwald, Switzerland Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/braunwald-swiss-alpine-wonderland In tiny little Switzerland it takes just about an hour or so to get from Zurich to spectacular mountain resorts. One of the lesser known Swiss alpine jewels is Braunwald, nicely nestled on a sunny and traffic-free natural terrace in central Glarnerland. Whether you enjoy winter hiking, skiing, snowboarding, skitours, sledging or snowshoeing – the wonderful mountain area of Braunwald offers it all. Wooden chalets in front of “Eggstoecke” peaks. Here, you will hear the sound of the crackling snow underneath your feet. You will simply love this peaceful place and its fantastic panoramic view! Idyllic mountain resort Braunwald and its iconic cable car You don’t ski but would like to learn it? No problem at all! As almost every Swiss winter resort, also Braunwald offers its own snow sport school. And of course you can rent your equipment here as well. Sledges by SWISS Rent A Ski shop in Braunwald The perfect Swiss alpine idyll Swiss flag in front of “Eggstoecke” This place is the perfect idyll if you are looking for some restful days without any rush or traffic. It is simply a place of peace and silence where time has stopped. Idyllic chalet and Swiss mountain backdrop That is … until you spot this British style phone cabin and rush back to business… British style phone cabin Where to stay in Braunwald Braunwald offers a variety of accomodations; whether you prefer a comfortable hotel, privacy in your own holiday chalet or the ultimate mountain experience in a SAC hut – here you will find your accomodation that suits you most. Typical Braunwald chalet If you travel with kids, the absolute top venue for family holidays is the “Märchenhotel” (German for fairy-tale hotel). It was rated Switzerland’s second-best family hotel in 2011! The former grand hotel provides ample space for all ages to enjoy pleasure and relaxation. How to get to Braunwald Braunwald is car free – to get there you will have to take a steep funicular railway in Linthal which will take you up to Braunwald. This obviously is a cool experience by its own. It takes just over 7 minutes from Linthal station to reach the Braunwald sun terrace with its wonderful views. And also to get to Linthal we recommend the public transportation. There are convenient rail connections from Basel or Zurich. Usually you will have to change to the regional train in Ziegelbrücke and it will take you to the Linthal-Braunwaldbahn station. Once you arrive in Braunwald and you have too much stuff to carry with you, just take either a horse-drawn sleigh or one of the electric taxis. Horse-drawn sleigh Please find some more impressions from the stunning Braunwald scenery here: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157639283130174″ type=”gallery”] ## Winter time in picturesque Rapperswil, Switzerland Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/sunny-afternoon-rapperswil-switzerland The picturesque little city of Rapperswil is located on the upper end of Lake Zurich. It offers am amazing view on the lake as well on the mountains. Rapperswil is worth an excursion throughout the whole year. But we mainly love the scenery and Rapperswil’s charm in winter. Have a look… Wintertime on the shores of Lake Zurich One of the main sights of Rapperswil is the Rapperswil Castle and the reconstructed wooden bridge to Hurden which happens to be the longest wooden bridge in Switzerland! Wooden bridge Rapperswil The castle hill offers a great panoramic view on the lake and from the Glarner Alps all the way to the Zurich Oberland. View on Alps from Rapperswil Get some more impressions from the beautiful lakeside promenade and scenery around Rapperswil: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157639278132526″ type=”gallery”] Rapperswil’s Christmas Market One of Rapperswil’s top events in winter is the Christmas Market in the heart of Rapperswil’s old town. Christmas Market with view of the castle More than 200 market stalls offer various things such as jewellery, knittwear, handicraft pieces and of course lots of delicious food stands where you can enjoy hot wine punch, raclette and much more. Merry-go-round at the Christmas market in Rapperswil How to get to Rapperswil From Zurich main station take one of the following S-train No 5, 15, 7 to Rapperwil. It’s only a 30-35 minutes drive. If you have more time available, take a boat trip on Lake Zurich from Zurich Buerkliplatz. You won’t regret it! The scenery is breathtaking! ## Noble Wood and Glass in the Löwen Hotel Schruns Source: https://travelmemo.com/austria/loewen-schruns-hotel-review After a six-month long remodeling project, the Hotel Löwen shines resplendently again since October 2013 in Schruns! The 4 star superior hotel marries natural tradition with modern design. The new, extremely stylish interior took our breath away! Let the photos begin to tell the tale… Almost majestically, the Hotel Löwen reigns over the picturesque Montafon mountainscape surrounding the tiny, idyllic village of Shruns that it calls home. The Montafon alpine valley in Austria’s Vorarlberg region is ideal for all kinds of sports and recreational activities in winter and summer. But let’s take it one thing at a time… Entrance to the reception and lobby of the Hotel Löwen The splendid Hotel Löwen in Schruns Just pulling up to the hotel and the lobby entrance make the heart pound. Stylish decorations already hint at what awaits inside – a thoroughly stylish hotel carefully designed, yet replete with cozy “Alpine chic” . Seating corner with lamps in the lobby The Vorarlberg regional traditions of barn wood and stone blend tastefully: welcoming colors, fine materials, and the lovingly staged vintage decor lend the hotel a special note. Vintage wall decoration Signing off as responsible for the modern design and style of Shrun’s new Löwen is the Zurich architecture studio Monoplan. Congratulations! This first-rate hotel impresses equally with its furnishings, service, and restaurant, as well as the broad spectrum of wellness treatments. A tour of the rooms and suites As soon as you step into one of the 80 updated rooms, you get a sense of wellbeing. The appointments are stylish and the high quality materials have been used skillfully to best effect. Here too, wood, stone and chic-but-timeless design dominate. Elegant-cozy comfort room The hotel rooms are also very functional and promise comfort at a high level. The spacious wooden wardrobes come with motion sensor controlled lights in the wardrobe. Slick! All rooms have balconies with captivating views of the panoramic Montafon mountain range. Splendid view of the eye-catching Zimba mountain, the Matterhorn of the Montafon And the highlight is the superlative Löwen Suite that boasts a beastly 90 m2! Here, too, the stylish interior convinced us immediately… not to speak of the free-standing bathtub and private sauna with its fireplace-furnished relaxing room! Wow…. not bad! Löwen Suite with freestanding bathtub and own sauna Palate pleasures in the hotel restaurant Multiple award-winning star Chef Claudio Urru provides the gastronomic highlights. This is a chef de cuisine with his own Wikipedia entry! Chef Claudio Urru with pastry cook Chef Claudio Urru combines regional foods in subtle and creative ways with Mediterranean and Asian influences and convinces with a cuisine that is sophisticated yet rooted in local tradition. In the restaurant as well you will feel at ease instantly and what we noticed in particular is the hospitable attitude – not surprisingly, for this is Austria after all. The friendly and attentive service staff does everything to make you feel completely welcome. Banquette in the restaurant It’s all orchestrated in a lionesque performance by Stefan Schulz, on whose nametag it says restaurant manager! You can safely press him a little… he has an unshakably calm demeanor and is capable of entertaining three neighboring tables at the same time. Not everybody gets Walter’s sense of humor right away, but head waiter Schulz knew how to repartee even Walter’s ancient chestnuts with a light touch and lively eloquence. After dinner, if so inclined, you can round out the evening in agreeable fashion in the new fireplace lounge, at the striking bar or in the discreet smokers’ lounge. Lounge with fireplace Prosecco for breakfast – served in style by StefanNaturally, the generous breakfast buffet with healthy choice section is perfectly suited for getting a healthy start on the day… Tea lovers have the luxury of choice: exquisite tea varieties from Ronnefeldter and the Chiemgauer Tea Manufactory. We, on the other hand, started the day with a tingly Prosecco ;-) Spa treatments, wellness, sauna landscape and pools At a proud 3,000 m2, the spa area is very spacious and full featured. For the athletic types, there is a fitness room and gym with modern workout equipment. Take-it-easy types – us included – can take their ease in one of the pools, in the steam bath, and in the large sauna landscape. Indoor Pool Seen purely from the inside, we did not experience the same “wow” effect here as in the recently upgraded hotel, seeing instead a more classic spa atmosphere prevailing. But there is no denying that the wellness area is large and that it comes with the full set of amenities. Tip: The magnificent mountain panorama can be enjoyed in particularly enjoyable fashion from the heated outside pool and Jacuzzi! Early morning in the wellness area’s heated outside pool Montafon in Austria’s Vorarlberg The Montafon has a great deal to offer active vacationers. The Alpine valley is surrounded by three mountain ranges and, besides the magnificent scenery, is distinguished by extensive opportunities for recreation and sports. The Hochjoch aerial tram to the Kapellalpe und Sennigrat In winter, the Montafon transforms into a true winter sports paradise with opportunities for skiing, snowboarding, ski jumping (?!), cross country skiing, sledding, snowshoeing, etc. In the summertime, hikers, Nordic walkers, and mountain bikers get their money’s worth. Our video impressions from the Hochjoch high over Schruns go something like this: A trip to this natural paradise is worthwhile both in summer and in winter! We took advantage of the occasion and the brilliant weather right away to have a look at the ski area around Sennigrat Mountain Pretty impressive – even for us Alps-spoiled Swiss – what is being offered here in the area where the Snowboard World Cup takes place ! Sennigrat seen from the Kapellalpe Our thanks this time go to …the friendly, attentive staff of the Löwen Shruns, especially to the untiring restaurant manager Stefan Schulz and, of course, the new hotel manager Adriana Marchetti. Many thanks for the warm welcome! Hotel manager Adriana Marchetti and restaurant manager Stefan Schulz A great big thank you as well to Julia Faulhaber of Faulhaber Marketing for organizing our stay! See our photo gallery for more images of the Löwen Hotel [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157638419847166″ type=”gallery”] For connoisseurs: Click here for prices and availability of the Löwen Hotel in Schruns. ## Roomers – Hip and stylish living in the Heart of Frankfurt Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/roomers-hip-stylish-design-hotel-frankfurt Tucked away in a former office building just around the corner from Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof, the city’s central train station, is a top notch Design hotel: What the Design powers-that-be have produced nearly takes your breath away… The Roomers entrance and foyer Step out of the Hauptbahnhof‘s nondescript office building neighborhood into this black gem, and you will instantly be struck with the certainty that you are dealing with “higher” design : The interior designers at Rosen Architekten have sheathed everything in dark tones ranging all the way to off-black; the eccentric design vocabulary of the wing chairs by the front desk also augurs well for what’s ahead… Wing chairs by the reception …and the daring form elements are again incorporated expertly in the Skylounge . The 600 m2 top floor with its expanses of glass offers generous views of “Mainhattan” , the wry name given by some to the financial capital that is Frankfurt. Skylounge view of Frankfurt‘s financial district In addition to the spectacular Skylounge, those hotel developers and infamous throwers of parties Micky Rosen and Alex Urseanu have set up three conference rooms –also with suitable views – and a fitness center and spa. That the sinuously curved design language should carry over into the sauna should be self-evident… Off-beat design language of the “far-sighted” Skylounge Roomers designer hotel rooms When you’ve feasted enough on the view, it’s time to ready yourself in your room for dinner. The guest rooms at 24 m2 are not exactly the largest you’ve ever come across, but they are nothing if not stylish! Roomers Design Hotel guest room Totally blurred, but then that’s a sliding door in motion… In the Roomers Restaurant By now it should not come as a surprise that in the restaurant, too, they dug deep into their resources to give the epicurean and gastronomic heights here fitting surroundings: Comfortable booths alternate in the atmospherically designed dining room with a high table and a community table. The whole is appropriately lit in subdued fashion by various floor lamps, ceiling lights and chandeliers. Roomers Restaurant with booths and high table Roomers Restaurant “community table” On this particular evening, the little hearts decorating the tables were intended for Verona Pooth-Feldbusch. Clearly something extra special was worth celebrating, since it included even a little photo studio set up in the foyer for souvenir photos. Improvised Roomers photo studio Even with all the excitement about the celebs, we’re not about to forget the kitchen! We let the outrageously good-looking waiter recommend the mixed starter. And Saki, as the Greek-born bearded one was nicknamed, would be proven right: The variety of tartare, shrimp, scallops and Iberico Bellota ham was not only presented very attractively, it also tasted great ! (And, mind you, I’m sometimes prone to understatement…) Mixed appetizer of tartare, shrimp, scallops and Ibero ham Depending on whether or not you also devour the accompanying creamy burrata mozzarella with its balsamic vinegar, this could be where your light evening repast ends. But, hey, at Roomers they also have a bison filet on the menu … so, let’s dig in! The nice piece arrives in solitary splendor on its own plate; the grilled mini veggies have to make do in a small side dish. Bison filet and grilled mini vegetables Not to go on unnecessarily just to gin up artificial suspense: The bison filet is a stunner! Naturally, succulently tender … we ordered it medium and medium-well, and both versions were done exactly au point in line with our tastes. Fantastic! How on earth do they do that??! At this point, it was high time to let reason prevail and dispense with looking at the dessert menu… Honestly, no idea what it might contain. Sorry about that… Except that our favorite waiter Saki still managed an end run around good sense and won us without trying very hard for trying his fine vodka: He told us we could only aspire to the status of honorary Roomers by downing a glass in one gulp. And in fact, the vodka tasted relatively mild, so that presto – down the hatch! Here’s to us Roomers! Ominous vodka glass in the Roomers Restaurant With our heroic vodka feat accomplished, it made sense to let the many impressions settle in front of the fireplace or in the lively, stylish bar yet. And what then happens in Roomers stays in Roomers… Fire place and lounge adjacent to the hotel bar Or, for those who might have wanted a more succinct report: We are pleased to recommend Roomers totally! We show prices and availability here. And this is our picture gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157637884338485″ type=”gallery”] Many thanks to the Roomers Team! Our thanks to managing director Markus Langkamm for the dinner invitation! And hearty congratulation to the team backing up front man Saki; you provide an excellent experience or, in new German, a super experience! ## 6 Worthwhile Excursions in the Atacama Desert, Chile Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/excursions-atacama-desert The Atacama desert in Chile is one of the driest place on earth, covering a 1,000-kilometre strip of land on the Pacific coast, west of the Andes mountains. Here you will find vast tracts of red sand, active volcanoes, felsic lava, salt-lakes and a variety of animals and plants. The Atacama desert offers a spectacular and unforgettable experience. You can see numerous volcanoes, visit the El Tatio Geysers, watch flamingos at the Salar de Atacama, hiking in the Moon Valley, take mountain bike tours and much more! View over Atacama Desert in Chile While staying at the luxurious Awasi Hotel by Relais & Chateaux in San Pedro de Atacama, we had a private guide and a modern 4WD “doble cabina” utility vehicle to help you discover the remote but stunning landscape. Our guide, Jorge, grew up in the San Pedro de Atacama vicinity and delights in showing tourists places that they have never seen. Awasi guide Jorge Corantes Fernandez and travelmemo’s Walter We were blown away by the spectacular scenery where nature has crafted its shapes and materials in the desert. Here are some suggestions for worthwhile excursions in this vast region of Atacama Desert: Salar de Atacama & Laguna Cejar The Salar de Atacama is the largest salt flat in Chile and it’s located a short ride south of San Pedro de Atacama. The setting is dominated by the view of the vulcano Licancabur and the surrounding desert. Salty Salar de Atacama The Laguna Cejar is a small salt lake in the middle of the Atacama desert. The water of the lagoon is a crystal-clear, decorated by a white salt crust. Due to the high salinity and the pleasant temperatures of the water, you can get the perfect experience floating! Swimming in salty Laguna Cejar El Tatio geysers One of the most fascinating excursion was certainly the one to the Tatio Geysers. El Tatio Geysers is a field of geothermal springs with fumaroles activity and mineral deposits. It’s located at 4’200 meters above sea level and approx. 80 km from the town of San Pedro de Atacama (approx. 2 hours drive). Tatio geysers at sunrise Make sure you arrive early before sunrise since the geysers are most active in the early morning. The natural spectacle is overwhelming … water and steam rising up from everywhere and when the sun goes up, the sun light sparkles in between – just awesome! Tatio Geysers at sunrise Remember to take along some warm clothes since you will expect some chilly temperatures! Even though we are quite used to cold temperatures (since Switzerland is not exactly one of the warmest countries) we felt quite freezing. Valle de la luna (Moonvalley) The so-called Valley of the moon is famous for its resemblance to the surface of the moon. An amazing array of colors mark the landscape, including plenty of reds, oranges, and browns of course. Salt statues “Las tres Marias” – Valle de la Luna Within the valley you will see the great dune path; for thousands of years strong winds have affected these relifs, creating huge fields of sand dunes. Awesome! Hiking in the “Valle de los Cordones” On our last day we opted for an easy, but not less fascinating, hike through the “Valle de los Cordones”. We very much enjoyed the hike and the mix of foxtail plants, cactus and rocks in this valley. Foxtails and Candelabro cactus in Cardones gorge Stargazing Another amazing experience was the “Stargazing night with Jorge“. What an overwhelming night! Stargazing at Southern Cross in Atacama desert Not only was the viewing of billions of stars spectacular, but also our guide’s wealth of knowledge on the subject was impressive! It certainly enhanced our perception and understanding of the subject. Where to stay in San Pedro de Atacama We spent several nights at San Pedro de Atacama, in the following two luxurious and stylish hideaways leave nothing to be desired! Click at the links to read the detailed review about these fantastic hotels: Awasi patio and hotel pool Please check out our review of renowned Hotel Awasi by Relais & Chateaux Alto Atacama desert lodge Here’s our travelogue from Alto Atacama Please find some more impressions from stunning Atacama Desert here: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633386883348″ type=”gallery”] ## 5 of New York’s more Exclusive Attractions for the Discerning Traveller Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-states/5-exclusive-new-york-attractions-discerning-traveller For anyone visiting New York, time is simply never enough. Whether it is your first time visiting the Big Apple or your 12th, there is always something new to see or find. Of course, there are the usual tourist hotspots like the Statue of Liberty, Times Square, the Museum of Modern Art and everyone has to see the NYC skyline, both in the day and at night. But, if you scratch beneath the surface you always find spots that are gold dust for the discerning traveller, some of which we will touch upon in this article. Central Park Why not give yourself a gentle introduction to the city by exploring one of its natural gems; Central Park. These 843 acres of pure beauty, vibrant flora and hidden histories is never short of tourists, but if you can avoid the crowds, you can enjoy the whole day there if you want to. Central Park looking East© Ed Yourdon If you want to enjoy this little gem a little quicker though, and then spend the rest of your day elsewhere, you can witness it all by bike. You can rent one for two-hours, which could be plenty of time and exercise for one day. Film Forum New York is known to be a lover of films and Film Forum puts you at the front of some of the top movies mentioned in the New York Times. From indie features through to documentaries and some of the best foreign art, you can experience films from the world’s top film festivals. If you go to the concessions stands on your visit, you could get some lemon-poppy sponge cake too, which goes down a dream. Bowery Ballroom From film to music, the Bowery Ballroom hosts some of the upcoming acts that are making positive movements in their career, so you can hear them first before they make the big time. This is the perfect spot for music lovers and is home to the city’s best sound system. It’s a great atmosphere every night too, so you can rock the night away. Grand Central Terminal You may have seen this incredible terminal on a number of top movies, but that doesn’t even begin to explain this attraction’s history and stature. Gaze at the celestial ceiling mural elevated over the main concourse and feel like you are staring into a time machine. Grand Central Terminal© Muhammad Ghouri If you get peckish you can indulge in some fresh seafood at the Oyster Bar and then wash them down later on with a drink over at the Campbell Apartment. There is so much to visit and see in this 100-year-old establishment, which makes it well worth a visit. Grimaldi’s Pizzeria It is quite easy to work up an appetite whilst walking round New York and there is no better way to feed that hunger than with a pizza. The people of New York love to argue and debate about where the best place for pizza is but this Pizzeria, located under the Brooklyn Bridge, is definitely a contender. With a jukebox playing out some of the greatest classics from Frank Sinatra, you can relax in one of the most beautiful spots, with a view of Manhattan, and enjoy a great meal in the process. If you only have a few days to witness the best places in New York, for food, this has to be one of the best. NYPD police car in action If you do only have one day or just a couple of days and want to witness some of the most exclusive hotspots in the Big Smoke, there is very few better ways to spend it than the places mentioned above. New York in its entirety, could take up weeks and weeks of your time but if time is not on your side, then narrowing down your sightseeing will definitely be worthwhile. ## Gourmet and Romance in Hotel des Balances, Lucerne Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/gourmet-romance-hotel-des-balances-lucerne We stayed one night in Hotel Des Balances last weekend, a discreet hotel situated directly on the beautiful Reuss River in what must be one of the most postcard-perfect cities in the entire world: Lucerne, Switzerland. As you approach the Balances’ hotel entrance from the cobblestone old town, you are immediately struck by the stunning neoclassical façade, which paints a colorful history of the region going back to 1187. But it wasn’t the exterior but the interior of the hotel that made this hotel truly shine in our eyes. The owners — established food connoisseurs — hired Chef Andi Fluri to create an exquisite menu that manifested their innate values for seasonal freshness, simplicity and gastronomic excellence. The guests can experience all of this within a superb dining ambiance of soft candlelight, exposed brick and tastefully elegant décor. We utilized the two free drink vouchers they gave us at check-in to order a glass of wine of our choice with dinner, and as we analyzed the menu, the only fault we could find was the difficulty in making a choice. Everything looked delicious. For those who aren’t able to choose, don’t worry — you won’t have to – go with the 7 or 5-course set menu, each course paired with a specific wine to complement. We opted for a standard 2-course meal, and to begin we were each brought a small taster from the kitchen of sweet orange pepper mousse with aubergine tartar, which was inspiring. The starter — Crême brûlée of duck liver with creamy pumpkin soup sprinkled with crushed pumpkin seeds — was extraordinary. I’ve never tasted duck liver prepared with a fire torch before, nor have I even seen it served in this way in any restaurant ever, but the flavor combination we experienced is pure bliss. It was a 10 out of 10. Search for it! Next came the mains. The pan-fried, medium-rare venison entrecote was simply divine. It jumps into your mouth. The deer was served on juniper jus with onion and cherry puree, with boletus finger noodles (essentially better-tasting, herb-infused and lengthened spätzli), a pear marinated in red wine and seasonal vegetables. Meanwhile, the pan-fried pike perch fillet was cooked with less perfection — it tasted somewhat salty and there was no legitimate reason for this, particularly given that the fish didn’t come from the actual sea, but instead from one of the crisp fresh water lakes scattered generously throughout central Switzerland. Still, when the Perch was served with grape jus over a bed of savoy cabbage with mashed sweet potatoes, it approached semi-success. Sweet potatoes are quite exotic for Switzerland, so we were already impressed by the kitchen’s ability to source these starchy things. We were also impressed by the transparency with which the restaurant publicized the origin of every type of meat or fish served (it’s printed clearly on the menu). This knowledge is particularly important for discerning travelers nowadays given the risks of Pacific-caught fish that may or may not be sourced from the region around Fukushima. When it comes to sleeping arrangements, they’re clearly going for the romance vibe in this place and as a result, it’s a decent place to take your wife, your mistress or both. Most of the time their efforts work – the curvaceous, sexy bar downstairs, the luxurious white bedding upstairs, the red “do not disturb” door tassels and the signature “ice water” room fragrance definitely set a mood. And if none of these work magic, one of the gigantic floor-to-ceiling mirrors situated smack opposite each and every bed in one the hotel’s 56 rooms might do the trick. But at other times, the sensual décor misses the mark completely or even crosses into kitsch. The bedside table lamps were the most salient example of this, but there are others – for instance, the lighting above the showerhead is designed to resemble a starry night sky with tiny bright holes piercing a gold painted ceiling. Instead, it comes across as clownish, and totally out of tune with the elegance that the hotel aspires to exude. Overall, Hotel des Balances is a mild recommend – if only for the delectable food — but there are much better value deals within just a five minute walk. At the checkout, we were left with the same overly hospitable, empty feeling you get in so many hotels in Switzerland, or indeed, the feeling you get from the Swiss overall – it would be nice if you could take away a little bit of regiment, and add a lot more soul. Check out prices and availabilities here: Ultimately, the city of Lucerne is a highly desirable holiday destination for any couple to enjoy either athletically or culturally, whether sailing on the lake, hiking on Mt. Rigi or listening to Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. The city is enthralling from an artistic angle – for a population of just 140,000, they offer a dazzling number of classical music concerts, and the place is famous for it’s numerous festivals and cultural offerings. ## Visit Stylish Onyria Marinha & Thalasso Golf Hotel in Cascais, Lisbon! Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/golf-hotel-cascais-lisbon-onyria-marinha Onyria Marinha Edition Hotel & Thalasso is a luxurious five star boutique hotel in Cascais, just a 20 minutes’ drive East of Lisbon. The hotel stands out for its spectacular architecture and dreams (with Onyria meaning “dreams” in Greek). Stylish Onyria Marinha Edition Hotel & Thalasso Opened in March 2011, Onyria Marinha Edition Hotel & Thalasso is a new luxury boutique hotel with an attractive and modern architecture, with bright open spaces. The hotel features two outdoor swimming pools surrounded by pine trees and a spectacular terraced garden. External view of Onyria Marinha Edition Hotel The interior comes in celestial white and the ceilings sport cloud-shaped lighting which conveys an all heavenly feeling… Onyria Marinha’s stylish hotel lobby The service is superb and very friendly. The welcome drink pampering started with a sparkling wine from the Alentejo region and strawberries! Deluxe Rooms at Onyria Marinha The 68 deluxe rooms at Onyria Marinha feature contemporary decor and furnishing. The bathroom is amazingly light and big featuring a walk in shower, a comfortable bathtub, l’Occitane toiletries and atmospheric lighting. Spacious guest room with contemporary interior design All of the spacious suites come with balcony or terrace. From our room we had a perfect view of hole 8 and its bunkers. And apparently some of the suites even feature a rooftop jacuzzi and ocean view! View of hole 8 from the hotel room Check out prices and availabilities here. Restaurants at Onyria Marinha The hotel features an Italian venue: the STORY Restaurant. The breakfast buffet is varied and offers a generous choice. Breakfast room at Onyria Marinha Edition For dinner we opted for Onyria’s restaurant Monte Mar, just a bit further up East of the same coastline. If you like seafood (as we do), don’t miss this little gem by the Atlantic coast! Their mixed fish and seafood platter won’t disappoint you! Onyria Hotel’s Monte Mar fish restaurant Quinta da Marinha Golf Course Quinta da Marinha is rather a flat course, located on the famous Estoril Coast (25 km from Lisbon). The course was designed by the legendary Robert Trent Jones Sr. and is set in a private 110 hectares estate wooded with pine trees. With the Atlantic Ocean and the Sintra mountain, this course offers a beautiful surrounding scenery. If it’s not raining… that is. Quinta da Marinha golf course hole 10© Photo courtesy of Quinta da Marinha golf course One of the most remarkable holes is no. 14 – a par 3 requiring a precise shot in order to cross a cliff to reach the green! The course’s only flaw is that you have to cross fairways in order to get to the next tee. You better watch out for flying balls! Here are some more impressions from our stay at Orynia Marinha Edition Hotel & Thalasso: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157637258881396″ type=”gallery”] Cascais and surroundings Cascais’ beach on a rainy day Cascais is a colorful, cosmopolitan town with an elegant pedestrian zone, luxurious villas, fashionable shops and an assortment of restaurants and bars. The former fishing village became famous as a resort for Portugal’s royal family in the late 19th century and early 20th century. A few minutes outside the village, you will encounter some breathtaking beaches with crystal white sand. The most popular excursion outside Cascais is Boca do Inferno (“Mouth of Hell”) – a chasm located in the seaside cliffs. Go at sunset and watch the seagulls play around. Dine with the locals at Mar do Inferno restaurant! ## Play 6 of Portugal’s Top Golf Courses around Lisbon Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/play-golf-course-tour-lisbon-cascais Portugal is well known for its stellar golf courses. The wide range of golf resorts in Portugal will appeal to all golfers. Most of the renowned courses are in the South of Portugal, in the Algarve. However, Portugal’s centre, and the Lisbon coast offer some exceptional places, too! We had a close look… Five years ago we enjoyed a week of golf in the Algarve. This year instead, we wanted to see and play the great courses around Lisbon. Unfortunately we had no luck with the weather. It was rainy, foggy and windy – certainly not what you would expect in otherwise mainly sunny Portugal. Actually, in October you can expect the perfect golf weather! Ready to tee off for the rounds of golf around Lisbon Here are 6 of Portugal’s top golf courses of the Centro region around Lisbon: Troia Golf The Troia golf course is located just South of Lisbon, on the Troia Peninsula. It’s a beautiful links course, designed by famous golf course architect Robert Trent Jones Sr. In 2011, Rolex ranked the course as one of the best golf courses in the world! Hence, it’s one of Rolex’ “Top 1’000 golf courses in the world“. Troia golf course – Tee 10 This course is a major challenge! The white sand is ubiquitous, not only in the bunkers that protect the small and straight greens, but also in the surrounding dunes. I can’t tell how often my ball landed in the bunker – but I could tell from the sand I found in my shoes and in my hair after the round! Nevertheless, at least you can enjoy the wonderful landscape. The fairways are in very good shape, i.e. if you play on the fairways at all… and not in the dunes as the adventurous among us do… Bunkers around the green – Troia golf course Quinta da Marinha Golf Course Quinta da Marinha is a rather flat course, located on the pictoresque Estoril Coast (25 km from Lisbon). Also this course was designed by the legendary Robert Trent Jones Sr. and is set in a private estate of 110 hectares, wooded with pine trees. Quinta da Marinha golf course hole 10© Photo courtesy of Quinta da Marinha golf course One of the most remarkable holes is no. 14 – a Par 3 which requires a precise shot crossing a cliff to reach the green on the other side! We found it a bit awkward, though, that you have to cross fairways twice in order to get to the next tee. So watch out carefully! Penha Longa Golf Penha Longa Golf is a magnificent retreat in the mystic hills of Sintra. The championship course was designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., and it is ranked in the Top 30 courses in Continental Europe! We liked this course as it is laid out on the steep slopes of an incredibly nice and inspiring landscape. It probably offers the most variation of these commendable courses. Flag at Penha Longa Golf The only thing which might distract your play is when the race cars on the former Formula 1 circuit in Estoril are having their practice rounds. Or… when a group of aspiring Dutch golfers crosses your way with their plaid pants… travelmemo’s Walter and a group of Dutch golfers Don’t miss out on the area around the club house! Featuring the Penha Longa five star luxury hotel and a little chapel this place makes for an exceptional experience! Also the stylish club house is definitely worth a visit! Bar at Penha Longa club house Oitavos Dunes Golf Course Oitavos Dunes is a great links course embedded within the Sintra and Cascais natural park. The course is set among Evergreen pine woods and reforested dunes, in an area of great natural beauty. It was designed by one of the world’s most respected golf course architects, Arthur Hills, and thus it shouldn’t come as a surprise that this course is ranked as one of the World’s top 100 golf courses. Oitavos Dunes Golf course The golf course includes two par 5 holes in a row, which I was lucky enough to play both even par for the first time! I was feeling pretty good about myself afterwards, although I wouldn’t bet on a repeat performance. It was one of those days when the stars and strokes come together… or perhaps part of the magic of an exhilarating environment. We were not only impressed by the course’s natural and wild beauty, but also by its stylish club house! Stylish club house at Oitavos Dunes We also stayed at The Oitavos Hotel. Please find our travelogue about this stylish resort here. Praia del Rey Golf The Praia del Rey golf course is located at a short 45 minutes’ drive from Lisbon, near the medieval village of Obidos. The course has the characteristics of an authentic seaside links (back nine) and also provides a mixture of parkland holes. Praia del Rey links course© Photo courtesy of Praia del Rey golf course Praia del Rey, rated 13th best course in Europe by Golf World magazine, is certainly one of the most picturesque layouts in Europe, set in extensive grounds of pine forest and undulating dunes with spectacular views over the Atlantic. We liked this course a mountain since the back nine offer a terrific view on the Atlantic Ocean! Praia del Rey link© Photo courtesy of Praia del Rey golf course Despite the heavy rain we enjoyed the course. Probably because I had a very good day but also due to the nicely maintained greens. Man, were they quick! Belas Golf Course Belas is yet another nearby championship golf course. Several fairways and greens are set in deep valleys. While the first 9 holes cross a naturally preserved landscape; the second 9 run by some houses and pine trees. Belas golf course hole 1© Photo courtesy of Belas clube de campo During our stay the course was in a rather poor condition – mainly due to the heavy thunderstorms of the previous days. Disclaimer: The golf course managers and reception staff were very helpful when we booked this golf tour. Thanks also for their photographs! Due to the rainy conditions we were not able to take our own shots this time around. Probably we should get back another day and try again… ## Sleek and Stylish Design Hotel – The Oitavos in Cascais Peninsula Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/oitavos-design-hotel-golf-cascais-lisbon Located near Cascais, one of the most richest municipalities in Portugal, The Oitavos Hotel is only a 20 minute drive from Lisbon. One reads, on the hotel website, that the Oitavos seeks to “embrace rather than compete with nature,” and it succeeds in doing just that — the ambiance of the hotel seamlessly merges ultra modern interior design with the wild natural surroundings, including the lush Oitavos Dunes golf course and the rippling Atlantic oceanfront. About The Oitavos Design Hotel in Cascais Nestled in the sand dunes directly on the Atlantic, The Oitavos hotel has been operating since 2010 and made it’s mark in the upscale design hotel market with its bold designs, sleek lines and a stylish interior. The building’s idiosyncratic “Y” shape allows for each and every room to have an unobstructed and enchanting view of either the Dunes golf course or the Atlantic coastline. The Oitavos at nightfall© Photo courtesy of The Oitavos For those of you design aficionados seeking an architectural pied a terre, Oitavos is a treat to the senses. But if you are more inclined to spend your holiday golfing or exploring the outdoors than soaking up contemporary design, you still couldn’t wish for a better spot. Personally, we took a little while to warm up to the hotel’s exceptionally slick atmosphere. But after the first 24 hours, we were seduced. Here are a few things that proved most persuasive… Hotel Rooms at The Oitavos The Oitavos has 142 guest rooms, all of which come with private balconies and are decorated with crisp and elegant furnishings in a white and blue motif. The rooms are comfortable, luxurious and some of the most ample that we have come across in 5-star accommodation. Spacious guest room at The Oitavos Oitavos Restaurants and Chef’s Table The hotel’s equally smart restaurant “Ipsylon” is decorated in the same minimalistic style, but the edges are bolder and more colorful than the bedrooms above. You can choose from a selection of contemporary cuisine and locally sourced fresh Portuguese seafood in a relaxed atmosphere. Oitavos’ Ipsylon restaurant However, you should definitely opt for the “Chef’s Table” – a culinary experience like no other and the absolute highlight of our stay! Besides from the round of golf, maybe… Dine in style at a private table in the actual kitchen from where you can spot the chef and his team chopping onions, boiling lobsters and injecting an ounce of Portuguese flair into every dish. Chef’s Table in Oitavos’ kitchen On a typical night, you can expect to be welcomed and served by the chef himself, Cyrill Devilliers. But this particular evening, he was occupied at a wedding in Oitavos’s second kitchen, hence sous-chef Sebastian Frytie was the boss and with his staff (“Si chef!”), they created an astonishingly tasty dinner. Well done, man! Dinner began with a rainbow of starters such as organic tomato salad with rucola-sorbet, a delectable octopus salad and a finely grilled rock lobster from the Azores served with passion fruit butter. These chefs made us speechless. What an entrée! Grilled rock lobster from the Azores with passion fruit butter – a revelation! The first course was a tough act to follow but when the main dish arrived we were more impressed — Sebastian served a turbot fish on a bed of fennel and orange, accompanied by a variety of organic vegetables — a dish that left delicate flavors that melt in the mouth. Sous-chef Sebastian serving the main course, a turbot on a fennel-orange bed We finished our culinary exploit with a cornucopia of desserts suggested by pastry sous-chef Filippe. More sweets than you ever knew existed! It was the perfect way to finish a gourmet evening. Jaw-dropping variety of desserts. What can we say… Needless to say, the wines that accompanied each course rivaled their best food on offer — a Vallado 2010 from the Douro region or the ubiquitous port wine, in this case an Offley 10 Old Tawny Porto. The complex and undervalued regional wines provided the seemly finishing touches on an ideal Portuguese culinary effort! Ipsylon is a must-see when you visit Cascais – it provides a feast for both the eyes and the taste buds. The chef’s table is open on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Make sure you make a reservation! Oitavos Dunes Golf Course Oitavos Dune’s 18th hole The Oitavos Dunes is a link course set among evergreen pine woods and reforested dunes, in an area of exquisite natural beauty. It was designed by one of the world’s most respected golf course architects, Arthur Hills, and thus it shouldn’t come as a surprise that this course is historically ranked as one of the top 100 golf courses in the world. The golf course includes two par 5 holes in a row, which I was lucky enough to play both even par for the first time! travelmemo.com’s Walter proudly posing after playing par on two consecutive par 5 holes ;-) I was feeling pretty good about myself afterwards, although I wouldn’t bet on a repeat performance. It was one of those days when the stars and strokes come together… or perhaps part of the magic of an exhilarating environment. We were not only impressed by the course’s natural and wild beauty, but also by its stylish club house! Oitavos Dunes golf club house Our Thanks A big thank you goes out to the hotel’s general manager Miguel Champalimaud for his hospitality, and for introducing us to his charming family-owned Oitavos hotel and its fantastic golf course! GM Miguel Champalimaud, Walter and Joao after a round of golf And also many thanks to Manuela Weber from Cinnamon Circle for pointing out this stylish venue! Here are some more impressions from our stay at this elegant resort: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157636402177103″ type=”gallery”] Check out the hotel’s prices and availabilities here. Cascais and Surroundings Cascais’ beach on a rainy day Cascais is a colorful, cosmopolitan town with an elegant pedestrian zone, luxurious villas, fashionable shops and an assortment of restaurants and bars. The former fishing village became famous as a resort for Portugal’s royal family in the late 19th century and early 20th century. A few minutes outside the village, you will encounter some breathtaking beaches with crystal white sand. The most popular excursion outside Cascais is Boca do Inferno (“Mouth of Hell”) – a chasm located in the seaside cliffs. Go at sunset and watch the seagulls play around. Dine with the locals at Mar do Inferno restaurant! For something more upscale, try Onyria Hotel’s restaurant Monte Mar, just a bit further up North of the same coastline. Their mixed fish and seafood platter won’t disappoint! Onyria Hotel’s Mar do Inferno fish restaurant ## Portugal’s Most Enchanting Charm Hotel – Areias Do Seixo Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/boutique-hotel-areias-seixo-design-hideaway Areias do Seixo is probably one of the most enchanting boutique hotels we have seen in a while. It’s located approximately a 45 minutes drive North of Lisbon, on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, and it’s an absolutely romantic and charming hideaway! We’re happy to award it our travelmemo WOW factor! When we arrived at the hotel the weather was bad… as in really bad! It was rainy, foggy and windy – certainly not what you would expect in supposedly sunny Portugal. Anyway, in contrast to the unfriendly welcome from “mother nature”, we enjoyed a heartily reception from Marta, Areias do Seixos’ owner and co-manager. The first thing she offers at the check-in is tea and muffins by the fireplace. What a treat! From this very moment after arrival we knew we would spend a very special time at this outstanding hotel. Now this is a check-in procedure! Have a tea and muffin… About Areias Do Seixo Charm Hotel Areias do Seixo was built in complete respect and harmony with nature. Night view from the beach © courtesy of Areias do Seixo The architecture is modern and cubic and nicely contrasts the undulated landscape. The dominating building materials include the regional pebble stone (“seixo”), concrete, wood and glass. Lounge and fireplace by night © courtesy of Areias do Seixo But the hotel’s true highlight is the decoration and interior design which is totally unique. The decorators got inspired by different ambiances from Morocco, India and the African savannah. Photographers will love this place since they find countless motifs. We rarely had such a hard time selecting our best-of gallery, hence the large number for this one… And there are many romantic spaces – not only in the hotel but also in the exterior spaces. This place is just magical! Decorative suitcase and candles Oh, and by the way – from the hotel you can walk to the sand dunes and the Atlantic ocean. Due to the bad weather we skipped this part, though… So, if you’re looking for a romantic, a relaxing or an authentic vacation – you have come to the RIGHT PLACE. Hotel Rooms at Areias Do Seixo The 14 romantic rooms are all different from one another! The only common thing is that they all come with rustic fireplaces or wood stoves. And all of the rooms offer a view of the ocean and the sand dunes. Fireplace in one of the hotel room. We had the room “Mi Ma Bô” – which means “you and me” – and this was one of the most atmospheric rooms we have seen in a long while. When we entered the room we felt totally overwhelmed! The combination of different materials as well as the decoration and atmosphere – just awesome! Mi Ma Bô hotel room Furthermore we had a private wooden deck with our own jacuzzi! We were speechless… what else can you wish for? Except maybe for good weather? Restaurant at Areias Do Seixo The restaurant looks rather like a “grocery store” where you can find olive oils, jams, teas and various herbs. It’s an absolutely unusual decoration for a restaurant, but it’s so special and romantic! Restaurant decoration The food is delicious and most of the ingredients come directly from the garden and greenhouse next to the hotel. The Spa at Areias Do Seixo The spa offers a variety of treatments such as a hot-stone massage or the traditional Indian ayurveda massage Abhyanga. Furthermore, guests can enjoy the use of a Turkish bath and sauna or relax in the outdoor pool or in the relaxation room. The Proprietors on the Construction and Environmental Sustainability During our stay we had the chance to interview Marta Fonseca and Gonçalo Alves, the two creators and proprietors of this spectacular charm hotel. Hotel creators and owners Gonçalo Alves and Marta Fonseca They explained how the construction of the hotel was developed with constant consideration of a harmonious intervention with the surrounding nature. Most of the wooden left overs from a heavy storm back in 2009 were used for decoration, tables and furniture. Environmental sustainability was a big concern, hence the use of geothermal energy and solar power. Together with the help of architect Vasco Vieira and the two designers Rosario Gabriel and Isabel Schedel, Marta and Gonçalo created a truly marvelous hideaway gem. Very well done! Here are some more impressions from our stay at this enchanting charm hotel. It’s a must-go when traveling to this central Portuguese area! Check out prices and availabilities here if you consider a relaxed vacation near Lisbon. Or check out the villas at Areias do Seixo if you need even more space than the spacious hotel rooms offer. ## Sleek Portuguese Vineyard Hotel Architecture – L’AND Vineyards Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/l-and-vineyard-hotel-architecture Situated in Alentejo, a south-central region of Portugal, L’AND Vineyards Hotel welcomes visitors to this impressive resort nestled within vineyards and enchanting landscapes. Initially drawn by its eye-catching architecture, we were blown away at first sight! L’AND Vineyards Resort in Portugal The spectacular L’AND Vineyards Resort is embedded in a winsome landscape dotted with vineyards and cultural heritage marked by a fusion of Neolithic, Roman, Arab and Medieval cultures. L’And vineyards resort The interior of the hotel mirrors its exterior, with building materials including natural stone, slate and wood combined in balanced proportion by the groundbreaking Brazilian architect Márcio Kogan. The result is an atmospheric combination of luxury, natural beauty and tranquillity! The patio at L’AND Vineyards resort Land and Sky View Suite The resort offers 22 plush 120 square meter suites, each with a separate bedroom and living room, offering views of the vine garden, a lake and the surrounding nature. For those seeking a romantic getaway, book one of the 10 Sky View Suites that situate the couple asleep directly underneath the stars thanks to a retractable roof window! Márcio Kogan’s exceptional attention to detail and focus on simplicity have been generously infused into these 10 serene tombs — creating a shangri-la space in which busy couples can escape the hectic pace of modern life. The living room of sky view suite These “love nests” also feature a private interior patio with a heated plunge pool! How hot (or cool) is that? Private patio of sky view suite L’AND Vineyards’ Gourmet Restaurant The L’AND TASTE gourmet restaurant will take you on a culinary journey through natural and organic cuisine inspired by the time-honoured traditions of the Mediterranean. Scallops on mushrooms “girolle” with truffle sabayon The food was high-quality as was the staging, but the combination of too many ingredients was one small strike for the kitchen. Moreover, we felt the restaurant menu was a bit overpriced in general. Nevertheless, L’AND TASTE is still worth a visit, particularly for the superb service and also the magical lamps, which are suspended above diners’ heads like bronze constellations. L’AND TASTE gourmet restaurant Sales Manager Hugo Valadas on the Hotel’s Concept During our stay, we had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of Hugo Valadas, the hotel’s sales manager and guest service director. He introduced us to the concept around L’AND vineyards, which includes not only the sleek hotel itself but also villas designed by a group of internationally renowned architects. travelmemo.com’s Walter and sales manager Hugo Valadas The origin of the L’AND Vineyards project can be traced back to 2003, when the landowners decided to pursue their vision of combining vines and tourism. But rather than building yet another “traditional” hotel, they embarked on a quest to create a harmonious and sensual oasis built in accordance with the surrounding nature. A second project, the L’AND Reserve Hotel & Spa, is under construction on the shores of Alqueva lake near the Spanish border. The Alentejo Region The Alentejo region is a provincial region known for its wine, fine food and culture. Don’t miss visiting nearby Evora. Evora is a kind of open-air museum with a large number of wonderfully preserved monuments and buildings of public interest that led UNESCO to protect it as a World Heritage Site. Evora Check out L’AND Vineyards’ prices and availabilities with Booking.com. ## Restaurant Anna – Fine Dining in Amsterdam’s Red Light District Source: https://travelmemo.com/netherlands/restaurant-anna-amsterdam-gourmet-fine-dining Venture into Amsterdam’s ‘de Wallen’ quarter, also known as the red light district, in order to find the Anna restaurant. Among other. The gourmet restaurant is located in two spectacularly renewed monumental buildings and offers relaxed yet stylish and tasty fine dining. Here’s what we had for dinner… Anna restaurant entrance next to Amsterdam city bicycles The Anna restaurant is well worth the little adventure the district has on offer. Simply don’t go ‘window shopping’ and you’re safe… The fine dining restaurant features a varied menu in a stylish environment. The guests, though, are all relaxed and of all age. Covers in the restaurant You immediately know that things will be fine once the unexpected amuse bouche makes it to your table. Our tuna roll was all tasty and promising… For starters we had truffle risotto served with sautéed veal cheek, poached egg and foam of forest mushrooms. And a crispy cylinder of black and white sesame seeds stuffed with tuna tartare served with wasabi cream chesse and a soy sauce dressing. Man, what a start! Crispy sesame roll stuffed with tuna tartare As everybody else we indulged in an interesting conversation and were fully surprised when a small ‘intermediate’ showed up: a small plate with ice cream and a nice sauce, hmm… After our eyebrows recovered we were ready for the main course. We opted for the grilled scallops with Lardo di Collonnata, foam of corn, crunch of popcorn, grilled baby fennel and a mousseline of parsley root. Priceless! Grilled scallops and baby fennel Now I’m not too much of a dessert guy but after the previous courses I was just too curious what else the shop had on offer. I opted for the trio of tonka beans, mousse with compote and jelly of red fruit and a coulis of strawberry with strawberry liquer. Let me describe this in 1000 words… Trio of tonka beans dessert Phew! And as if this was not enough already coffee comes with even more delicacies. Well… good thing we don’t treat ourselves to such gourmet marathons on a daily basis or our personal trainer would be a rich man! [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157635730931833″ type=”gallery”] Many thanks to Eric van der Hout for the entertaining company and sponsoring this post! We discussed all the latest developments his travel software company NetMatch has on offer. Eventually I will write about their latest projects as they may very well influence the way we book trips in the future… ## Sunday brunch in Zurich: Urban Breakfast at the Clouds Bistro Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/urban-breakfast-clouds-bistro-zurich In trendy Zurich-West, there are a number of spectacular brunches to enjoy. But only the Clouds Bistro located on the 35th floor of the Prime Tower, Zurich’s tallest building, will serve you a breathtaking view of Zurich and the lake with your breakfast. And so, on Sunday, we rose to those lofty heights to sample their “Urban Breakfast“… In the summer of 2013, Clouds introduced a new breakfast concept : in the CLOUDS Bistro every Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. they now serve an à la carte breakfast, newly named the Urban Breakfast. And, on the last Saturday of every month, from noon to 4 p.m., it comes with LIVE MUSIC on the side. It is first come, first served; no reservations necessary. Clouds-Urban-Breakfast-Brunch wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("hrk8jnyzo5", { videoFoam: true }); Urban Breakfast – Breakfast/brunch in the clouds Entrance to Clouds in the Prime Tower In the Prime Tower, high above Zurich’s roofs, enjoy a splendid view of the city while you let yourself be spoiled with epicurean delights. The view from CLOUDS Bistro Ok, admittedly we were a bit skeptical when we first heard about this lofty new breakfast concept – because CLOUD’s brunch buffet before had been simply heavenly already! But Sunday’s experience made us believers: Getting an à la carte start on Sunday also works extremely well. ;-) Urban Breakfast Flyer We begin as usual by ordering our beverages. Besides the traditional coffee drinks like cappuccino or latte macchiato they will also brew exotic coffee varieties like fiery Carajillo or assorted varieties of tea. Of course, you can also treat yourself to a freshly-pressed fruit juice, recharge with Prosecco and Champagne or savor a non-alcoholic fruit infusion. Walter savors the Urban Breakfast – with the fruit infusion up front The CLOUDS breakfast is a true treat for the palate: a basket filled with croissants, Swiss Zopf plait bread and twist bread, served with confitures, butter and honey. Next, there is country ham and Graubünden-style air-dried beef, Gruyère und Brie de Meaux cheeses complemented by a choice of fresh fruit. Everything arrives at your table fresh as the morning dew on a tiered etagère tray. And all this comes very reasonably priced at CHF 24.00 for two persons – with the great view gratis! The excellent value for the money was an eye-opener … where in Zurich can you still get that? Urban Breakfast etagère and breadbasket in heavy action But to satisfy the cravings of your “breakfast heart” you can order much more from the friendly, attentive staff. Choose from egg dishes, salmon, tasty pancakes, bagels and fine Bircher Müesli at modest additional cost. In case you wish to tempt yourself ahead of time, here is the full Urban Breakfast menu. Eggs Benedict bagel When we asked Marisa Jud, Bistro Head of Service/Assistant Manager why they changed from brunch to Urban Breakfast, she said this: Many restaurants today offer opulent brunch buffets. We wanted to get back to something more traditional, to offer our guests a breakfast as we knew it before all the “brunch hype.” We find that they still offer an ample, well rounded menu. Even are in luck are those among us who need a sweet to top things off: The freshly-baked cakes and muffins or desserts served beautifully in small glasses will satisfy any sweet tooth. Mmmm-mmm, so good! Marisa Jud serves a selection of fine desserts In our case, we topped off breakfast by indulging in a delicious Crema Catalana – for no other reason than…it’s Sunday! For a Crema Catalana surprise – just dig down to the bottom… Anyone who finds that this fare is still too light can also order something à la carte from the CLOUDS Bistro menu beginning at 11:30 a.m. – such as an Angus Burger with fries, for instance! Since we ourselves felt perfectly well-served by the traditional “Urban Breakfast,” we saved the burger for another day ;-) For anyone who would like to indulge in this Sunday delight, here is the Cloud flyer for the Urban Breakfast. And here are a few more pictorial impressions from the breakfast in the Cloud “with a view.” [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157635455085254″ type=”gallery”] Many thanks to the Clouds team!! We wish to thank Larissa Périat, marketing and PR manager, Marisa Jud, Bistro head of service/assistant manager for Clouds Bistro and their team for the generous invitation! The atmosphere and service were excellent. ;-) We were joined by the blogger team of Mamiko and Dimitri Burkhard of Newly Swissed. Their report in English is here. ## Romantic Masseria Alchimia in Fasano, Puglia Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/romantic-masseria-alchimia-fasano-puglia The romantic boutique apartment accommodation “Masseria Alchimia” is located in Fasano approximately 50 km South of Bari (the capital of Puglia in the heel of the Italian boot). In the 17th century, the Masseria had been a small hermitage. Owner and landlady Caroline Groszer bought it in 2006 and transformed it to a charming, small resort with 10 apartments, surrounded by natural landscape of old olive trees. Puglia offers everything you need for a relaxing vacation; mediterranean climate, bucolic landscapes with olive groves, picturesque fisherman’s villages, golf courses, typical delicious italian food and stellar accommodation (Hotels and Masserie). Olive trees Masseria Alchimia in Fasano When we arrived at Masseria Alchimia and stopped in front of the entrance gate we were anxious to get to know Alchimia, since we’ve had heard a lot about this stylish retreat. Once the gate opened an impressive alley led to the Masseria which stands majestatically out amidst the green-brownish landscape. Driveway to Masseria Alchimia There’s no town or other hotel within sight – it’s the perfect retreat, an oasis of peace, to spend a peaceful and relaxing vacation, secluded from tourism. Discerning travellers will enjoy the tranquillity and privacy. Masseria Alchimia The converted mansion house offers 10 apartments differing in size, form and layout, each with independent entrance, some with private terrace, others opening directly onto the garden. Apartments at Masseria Alchimia All apartments are furnished with a selection of design classics and combinations of deep warm colors and materials. Guests can chose between a one-room apartment or spacious two-rooms-apartments or a deluxe-apartment with 140 m2 for a relaxed family vacation. All apartments feature a kitchen nook, bathroom with shower or tube, hairdryer, satellite-TV, WiFi and a safe. Bedroom with a view What we appreciated most was the private patio with lounge from where we enjoyed the idyllic landscape and the beautiful and peaceful sunrise. Sunrise at the private patio And for whom this is still not enough to find the own ease of mind, Masseria Alchimia can arrange massages or private yoga sessions. Caroline herself is very fond of pilates, a body conditioning routine, improving your mental and physical well-being, strengthening your muscles. Host Caroline Groszer and her personal pilates trainer Italian film maker Giorgio Oppici portrayed the masseria as follows: Delicious Italian cuisine in Puglia Masseria Alchimia is a selfcatering accomodation. However, it would be a shame not to visit any of the outstanding restaurants offering Puglia delicacy. And of course, Caroline has some insider’s tip which you shouldn’t miss! Amuse Bouche For example, we went for dinner to the Restaurant & Agriturismo Anticalama in Pezze di Greco. Anticalama is a precious little paradise – a mansion house transformed to a restaurant and resort. It’s an absolutely romantic spot where they serve delicious food and tasty wines. And the owners, Marino Rubino und Mirella Giorgio, as well as the entire staff are absolutely friendly and attentive. Anticalama Resort & Agriturismo Whenever you eat in Puglia you have to decide among delicious plates. And the same happened at Anticalama; after a yummy antipasto (starter) we had the agony of choice when it came to pasta; strozzapreti, casarecce, fusilli, orecchiette, tagliatelle or spaghetti – with tomato or vegetables, mushrooms, seafood or pesto – uuuff – life is rough! ;-) Pasta selection at Anticalama restaurant Whatever you chose; enjoy the excellent cuisine at Anticalama! Another very commendable restaurant – especially if you like fish! – is Ristorante La Maddalena in Savelletri. After a tasty starter of crudo di mare (raw seafood) we opted for fish which was exquisite! Relaxing by the beach Masseria Alchimia is located only a few minutes’ car ride from the beach. Beach at the White Beach Club in Torre Canne Caroline has an arrangement with White Beach Club, as well as with Lido di Bambù. Alchimia’s guests get special rates when renting beach chairs and umbrellas at these beach clubs. Lido di Bambù “Bagnino” Alberto and travelmemo.com’s Walter Schaerer Golf Courses near Fasano In the proximity of Masseria Alchimia you will also find the wonderful San Domenico Golf. We played there on our last Puglia trip and can warmly recommend it. Green at Coccaro Golf Club Another golf course nearby is the 9-hole course of Coccaro Golf Club. Shopping in Puglia Puglia is known for ist designer-outlet shops. And yes – maybe that’s not the favourite thing to do for men – but you should give it a try, since Italy is known for its fashion-consciousness. We recommend the Evolution Outlet in Polignano a Mare (approx. a 20 minutes ride from Masseria Alchimia). You’ll find bags, shoes and designer clothes as far as your eyes can see. Maybe these are not exactly the most comfortable shoes – but they just look sexy! Colorful High-heels Speaking of shopping – another highlight is the Molfetta Fashion District – a kind of village with lots of designer and brand outlets. Here are some more impressions from the superb weekend we spent in Puglia: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157634470691194″ type=”gallery”] This stay was made possible by… Thanks a lot to Caroline Groszer from Masseria Alchimia for arranging this stay and the warm reception! Caroline knows the region inside out and had some very commendable tips at hand ;-) And also many thanks to Nina Aryapour from Primus Communications for hinting us to Puglia in the first place. Primus Communications was so kind to offer the Europcar rental car. BTW, Europcar did a tremendous job at pickup time. They were quicker in deploying the car than Bari’s ground handling staff in sorting out our luggage… And last but not least Tobias Pogorevc from Helvetic Airways was so generous to supply our flights. Thanks a lot, it all panned out perfectly! The flight times from Zurich into Bari are very comfortable, much better than the last time around two years ago. The leg room between seats in Helvetic’s Fokker 100 aircraft was amazingly large. I guess other airlines would easily squeeze in another row of seats… And by the way, the wireless infrastructure has wildly improved over our last stay in Puglia. Now hotels and restaurants usually have a wifi connection that actually works in the hotel rooms! ## Corteinfiore – Best Restaurant and Boutique Hotel in Trani, Puglia Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/corteinfiore-restaurant-boutique-hotel-trani-puglia Corteinfiore – an excellent seafood restaurant and stylish bed & breakfast – is set in the old Palazzo Laghezza, located only a few steps from the tourist harbor in Trani. The Palazzo from the 16th century is built on the ancient city walls in a quiet and peaceful area. Here’s why we would rather call it a Boutique Hotel instead of a B&B… It all started in summer 2000 when owner Michele Matera opened the Osteria (restaurant) Corteinfiore in the interior of the Palazzo Laghezza, framed by citruses and nectarines. He had this dream on his mind to create an oasis of pleasure and tranquility, focusing on a balance of food, wine and music. Today, the restaurant is widely-known for their top selection of fresh seafood and has become a mecca for seafood lovers. And with the newly opened B&B it tops it all off! Hopefully you’ll agree based on the pictures that this may as well be marketed as a boutique hotel instead of a B&B… Albeit there is not really a breakfast but some tarts in the room and corridor instead and a Nespresso coffee machine in the room. But the decoration at least qualifies for “Residenze di Charme” as they say on their business cards ;-) Ristorante Corteinfiore Having already been to Puglia two years ago, we knew that the local cuisine is among the World’s best! But we didn’t expect that it would actually be possible to top the previous experience! But that’s exactly what Corteinfiore achieved… Stylish design at Osteria Corteinfiore At Osteria Corteinfiore they serve fresh seafood prepared very accurately with a refined choice of flavors! Every day they have a vast choice of “catch of the day” which is proudly presented by the friendly waiters. Katja admiring the choice of catch of the day The ambiance at the restaurant is very warm and the staff all attentive. They even brought me a handbag holder to put on the table. How thoughtful is that!? Walter should have got one for his camera, too ;-) For starters we had a delicious mix of crudo di mare (raw seafood) and warm fish appetizers such as tuna, shrimps and more. Among the best around! As main course we opted for a grilled ombrina – the one we had chosen from the buffet before. As per usual for Italian standards it comes fairly lonely without lot’s of sides. We were glad given the rich appetizers… Crudo di Mare (raw seafood) – the best we ever tasted! We would have loved to have dessert too (since a family next to our table had a mouth-watering plate of dessert to share), but we just couldn’t take anymore. Next time we eat less appetizers (or stay on diet the whole day) and leave some room for dessert too! :-) Corteinfiore’s courtyard with ancient city walls The food was delicious and the service impeccable! We warmly recommend dining at Corteinfiore when you are in Trani. Savor the fresh Mediterranean cuisine and enjoy the atmosphere. You won’t be disappointed – promised! Le stanze – The Rooms at Corteinfiore In addition to the osteria, as recently as in January 2013 Michele opened “Le stanze di Corteinfiore” – a very charming B&B with six rooms on the first floor of the palazzo. Well, to call it a B&B is the wildest understatement around. We would rather say it’s a stylish boutique hotel with great charm and hospitality! Welcoming stairs to the rooms at Corteinfiore All rooms (which by the way all have names rather than numbers) have been designed and decorated with taste and authenticity. The furniture, fabrics and lamps were produced by local craftsmen. Room “Giglio” at Corteinfiore The exclusive guest rooms feature a private bathroom, air conditioning, LED TV, Wi-Fi, hairdryer, a mini bar with complimentary water, a stylish Nespresso coffee machine and a small pastry production (homemade, of course!). Nespresso coffee machine and homemade pastries The bed was absolutely comfortable – Michele told us that they had paid special attention to the choice of the mattress. And in fact … we slept like heaven! When at our departure we complimented owner and host Michele Matera for his little gem, he modestly answered: “Corteinfiore is not a resort – but we like to dream up!”. Corteinfiore’s owner and host Michele Matera Get some more impressions of Corteinfiore and the picturesque village of Trani from our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157634383102047″ type=”gallery”] This stay was made possible by… Thanks a lot to Michele Matera and his staff for the warm reception! And thanks a lot to Caroline Groszer from Masseria Alchimia for arranging this stay! Caroline knows the region inside out and had some very commendable tips at hand ;-) A review of her own stylish masseria will follow here shortly. And also many thanks to Nina Aryapour from Primus Communications for hinting us to Puglia in the first place. Primus Communications was so kind to offer the Europcar rental car. BTW, Europcar did a tremendous job at pickup time. They were quicker in deploying the car than Bari’s ground handling staff in sorting out our luggage… And last but not least Tobias Pogorevc from Helvetic Airways was so generous to supply our flights. Thanks a lot, it all panned out perfectly! The flight times from Zurich into Bari are very comfortable, much better than the last time around two years ago. The leg room between seats in Helvetic’s Fokker 100 aircraft was amazingly large. I guess other airlines would easily squeeze in another row of seats… And by the way, the wireless infrastructure has wildly improved over our last stay in Puglia. Now hotels and restaurants usually have a wifi connection that actually works in the hotel rooms! ## Stellar City View in Amsterdam – Mövenpick City Centre Hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/netherlands/moevenpick-hotel-amsterdam-city-centre Within walking distance of Amsterdam’s historical city centre and its canals, Mövenpick offers a glass cuboid with spectacular views over the city and the river IJ. Mövenpick Amsterdam outside view Only 20 minutes from Schiphol Airport and within walking distance of the Central Station, Mövenpick Amsterdam City Centre is a large hotel structure with 408 rooms is located surprisingly close of Amsterdam’s renowned Canals and main cultural hotspots. The new library district is virtually “across the street”. Brandnew public library building Not surprisingly the generous hotel rooms offer one-of-a-kind views of the harbour and Amsterdam’s city centre. Sunny hotel room I’m ashame to disclose the full city view here as I visited the hotel in February after a full-blown snow storm and Amsterdam was covered with snow. And I publish this only now in summer, hence the white photographs look weird… Sorry about that! Anyway, I fortunately have enough inside takes ;-) “Silk Road” Hotel Restaurant The hotel restaurant is located on the 2nd floor with a great view of the river IJ. Nicely enough, dishes are prepared by the chefs in the open live cooking kitchen. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But mind you, you better be well awake before making your way to the breakfast buffet. The choice it offers can be overwhelming, in the positive sense… Even after beaming New Yorker restaurant manager Kevin showed me around I still kept discovering new coffee and tea stations along the way. Beaming Kevin Williams presenting the breakfast buffet And by the way, how could this guy possibly know my hotel room number by heart by the second day already?! Okay, fine, maybe not all 408 rooms qualify for the executive lounge (one of the little perks you get to enjoy being a travel blogger). It’s at the lounge that Kevin caught my room number in the first place. But still, Well done, man, I’m impressed! Finger food at the executive lounge The varied choice of breakfast müslis is clearly inspired by the hotel’s Swiss roots and you may as well start your day with a Swiss style rösti, their mashed potatoe tarts. Since I was reviewing the hotel I returned to Silk restaurant again in the evening. Given the weather conditions I was glad I could stay inside despite a sunny yet cold day in the stiff wind. Walter’s chilly city walk in Amsterdam Kevin’s young assistant Thabang Maneli oversaw the evening’s operations. Despite his young age he came across as all professional and he made sure everyone felt comfortable and at ease. Nice job, man! The table decoration was very stylish and classy. Unusual long and elegant cutlery by German supplier Hepp Exclusiv made me indeed feel exclusive… Decorated tables at Silk Road restaurant Both starters and the main dish were excellent, my US Black Angus was exactly according to my preference! Very yummy! US Black Angus steak But even after a strenuous city walk and thorough ‘hotel and restaurant inspection’ you’re still not done. As an aspiring travel blogger you’ll also want to take to the hotel bar and see what the bar man has on display… “Silk” Hotel Bar As I always do I asked for a local beer and some typical snacks to go with that. What I got was a De Koninck. It will not make it to my top-3 all time favorites (a list I still have to compile and publish…) but it was very tasty. De Koninck beer The barman assured me that the most local he had were the Bitterballen but that they were not everone’s taste. After I insisted he came up with a small plate with finger food. The round Bitterballen are indeed peculiar but their not as bitter as their name would suggest. Give it a try! Finger food with Bitterballen Okay, you caught me, this was not after the Black Angus but on the second evening… The local digestif I got to have with the Bitterballen was the Ketel 1 Jenever. Not sure whether I did the right thing but it went perfectly together with the beer… Ketel 1 Jenever digestif Enjoy more views of this impressive hotel here! [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157634376494205″ type=”gallery”] How to get there Just for you not to struggle as much as I did at the train station: There is a train on track 14a leaving for the airport every 15 minutes. Get the $6 train ticket at the tellers and pay with credit card or debit direct. And despite the hotel’s close location they still offer a shuttle transfer from and to the train station. Mind you, the shuttle leaves ‘behind’ the station on the river side and not on the city side! Thanks a lot! Many thanks to Dirje van Laar and all her helpful colleagues from Mövenpick Amsterdam for having me! They made sure “their” visiting travel blogger left all impressed ;-) This visit was supported by Swiss online tour operator travel.ch ## 25hours HafenCity – The “High Seas” Design Hotel in Hamburg Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/25hours-hafencity-design-hotel-hamburg The “sailor’s home” by 25hours in Hamburg’s new HafenCity district is a hip designer hotel with plentiful hints of sea faring romance and a gigantic 25hours breakfast buffet! Located just around the corner from the U-Bahn underground station “Ueberseequartier” but also just an easy walk from Hamburg’s “Neustadt” city center is where you will find the latest gem in the 25hours hotel chain. The “25hours HafenCity” captivates with its constant slyly staged allusions to the romance of the high seas. Hotel lobby: Meeting room in a Hapag-Lloyd container It starts as soon as you enter the hotel lobby: The adjoining meeting room is stowed inside a Hapag-Lloyd Line shipping container… Naturally, a part of the city with a big name like “Ueberseequartier” invites, no, it practically compels, dreams of distant shores. Guests will therefore not be surprised to find references to the high seas and ship’s architecture practically everywhere they turn in the 25hours Design Hotel. Sailors in a tea advertisement Sales & Marketing Manager Moritz Böhlke outside a cabin with ship-style closet Hotel rooms with seafaring flair Hotel bed with view of HafenCity and Marco Polo Tower In the hotel rooms, too, seafaring chestnuts abound. We already knew that “Thirst is worse than being homesick”, but what is new is the specially-created little book providing more of such sailor’s wisdom. You would almost expect the wallpaper to match…and it does indeed! Once more, Moritz Böhlke with the sailor yarns And, just as boarding ladders evoke ships, so the minibar menu comes to you as a message in a bottle. It’s only logical. You’re (almost) not surprised then to discover that you have a voluptuous, nude nymphet to deal with in your bathroom ;-) Bathroom with nudie painting The “Heimat” restaurant and bar Heimat Restaurant in 25hours HafenCity The same theme carries through to the restaurant: Let your eyes roam while you eat, and you’ll discover it is decorated with ropes, anchors or ship’s rudders. And carpets are piled up like in a warehouse to make benches for table seating. Carpets used as benches To go with an authentic Astra Rotlicht (“Red Light”) beer (here, too it’s business with a wink, because” Astra Arschkalt (“Cold Butt“)” after all is not your garden-variety name…) I went for one of those recommended legendary “hamburgers”. They are said to be among the top 10 best hamburgers anywhere. Oh, yes, absolutely to be recommended. The taste is outstanding! One of Hamburg‘s top hamburgers This is also where they serve breakfast. On the side bar, buffet-style. As always for 25hours, it is one of the longest, tastiest breakfast buffets in the industry! Even in the 25hours Zurich I could only marvel how it is like a Sunday brunch, except that it is served daily… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157634087848681″ type=”gallery”] If you want to experience this High Seas design hotel check out rates and availability in the following search box. All 25hours hotels are members of designhotels.com, a hand-picked collection of only 200 hotels worldwide. No, ships do not dock here… Our thanks to Sales & Marketing manager Moritz Böhlke for the entertaining hotel tour! The hotel’s wink constantly lurked in the corner of his roguish eye! ;-) Also, sincere thanks to Stefan Pallasch of Fortune Hotels for the generous invitation and to travel.ch for their help with the travel arrangements! ## Tour Marina Bay Sands Hotel and its Skypark Infinity Pool Source: https://travelmemo.com/singapore/tour-marina-bay-sands-hotel-casino-skypark-infinity-pool Singapore’s landmark hotel Marina Bay Sands & Casino is one of the most famous hotels on the planet. I can tell from our webserver statistics :-) Hence I wanted to learn more about all the bells and whistles of this stunning architectural structure. Merlion near Marina Bay Sands hotel Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands Hotel is part of a huge complex that not only includes the luxurious 5-star hotel but also a casino, elegant shopping malls and the iconic Art Science Museum featuring temporary exhibitions. Marina Bay Sands Art Science Museum The hotel is connected to the walk around the bay via a glitty helix structure that by night is illuminated by blueish LED lights. Helix bridge to Marina Bay Sands Hotel and shoppes By night you get an overwhelming view of the hotel and casino complex anyway. Here’s the view as offered from the Fullerton Bay Hotel’s rooftop terrace. It is located at the feet of Singapore’s financial district across the Bay. Marina Bay Sands Hotel and shops as seen from the Fullerton Bay Hotel by night Marina Bay Sands’ three hotel towers feature a lofty atrium hosting the reception and several restaurants. From here you can take an elevator to the Skypark rooftop infinity pool and bar. The observation deck and the restaurants are open to the public, the infinity pool is a hotel guest area only. Skypark’s infinity pool and financial district The infinity pool is an elegant boat-like structure with huge cantilever and boasts the greatest view of Singapore’s bustling financial district. From the public observation deck you can see the Formula 1 pits across the canal. Just underneath the Skypark you’ll find the Banyan Tree spa with its own café with a view. Banyan Tree Spa cafe Skypark sitting on Marina Bay Sands hotel towers Marina Bay Sands Art Science Museum When I was in Singapore one of two exhibitions on display was The Art of Brick by Nathan Sawaya. No, I usually don’t play around with Lego, but yes, the exhibition was impressive, indeed! Lego exhibition in Marina Bay Sands’ Art Science Museum Deemed as one of CNN‟s 12 „Must-see Exhibitions‟, The Art of the Brick treats visitors to stunning displays of intricate sculptures made from hundreds of thousands LEGO bricks. Lego exhibition in Marina Bay Sands’ Art Science Museum For more information on Nathan Sawaya and The Art of the Brick, visit www.brickartist.com The second exhibition was Mummy: Secrets of the Tomb. It reveals the secrets of the mysterious Egyptian burial practices and mummification process. A 3D film captures the “virtual unwrapping” of the 3,000-year old mummy of Egyptian temple priest Nesperennub – whose original cartonnage coffin has never been opened. The analysis of his mummy was performed using a non-invasive computer tomograph scan. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157634064524380″ type=”gallery”] Thanks a lot to Marina Bay Sands’ social media officers Bhavna Moolani and Philicia Tan for coordinating my visit and showing me around these impressive premises! Please check out the following affiliate link if you care for prices and availabilities: Oh, and before I forget, the last time around my photograph of Marina Bay Sands Hotel got “stolen” more than 100 times without proper crediting. I wrote about it here. Wonder how my photographs will fare this time around… View of Marina Bay Sands Casino Hotel during dusk as seen from Singapore’s Esplanade Update 7.12.2013: We made it Photograph of the Week! Our night view of the Marina Bay Sands hotel as seen from the Fullerton Bay rooftop made it A Luxury Travel Blog’s photograph of the week! Photograph of the Week by A Luxury Travel Blog Love it, thanks a lot! ## South Iceland – Impressions from the Land of Elves and Volcanoes Source: https://travelmemo.com/iceland/impressions-land-elves-volcanoes Until recently, I only knew “Iceland” from hearsay and the picture I in had in mind was of sheep, lots of wind and weather and occasional eruptions of volcanoes with tongue twisting names. I let my mind be changed… Upon invitation by jack-of-all-trades Arthúr Bollason I boarded Icelandair’s direct Zurich – Reykjavik flight to discover more about the Island of Ice. Tour guide Arthúr has what it takes – literally – he is a walking story book and besides knowing a zillion facts also knows how to bring the old legends to life in a way that almost lets you feel the clash of swords and clanging halberds in your bone marrow. Getting there and getting around in Iceland Of course, the most comfortable way to get there is by direct flight from Zurich to Reykjavik on Icelandair. In its Saga Business Class, you’ll fly in legendary comfort that is right up there with intercontinental standards. Captain Orri Eiriksson and his co-pilot You’ll land at Keflavik Airport, Iceland’s main international air hub, in the town of the same name located in one of the island’s most forbidding lava landscapes. Why here? Because they let the Americans establish a military airfield on their island after the Second World War, but naturally not on the best land… Today it is only used by civilian air traffic. The shuttle into town is relatively dear, so it generally pays to reserve your rental car for pickup at the airport. We rode on the fabulous buses of Reykjavik Excursions. WiFi included! It’s a blogger paradise… Reykjavik Excursions bus with Marie-Astrid and “her” Icelandic horses And if you’re lucky, bus driver Sturla will serenade you while you are rolling down the highway ;-) Along the road to Reykjavik, you are greeted by stone sculptures created by a former government minister, who then became a jailbird – guess he had lots of time on his hands – and now is a minister again . Other countries, other customs… Many tour operators offer guided tours of the island, but in recent years tourists traveling on their own have increased greatly, so that last year the tourism industry contributed even more than the everpresent fisheries for the first time. You can explore the island by rental car, camper or you can rough it in the Icelandic outback in a Superjeep. SuperJeep.is offers among other vehicles these “hyper Jeeps.” Just seeing one of them will likely give you a notion of what sort of road conditions to expect in remote areas… Even with one, in case of bad weather be sure to check if the intended route is even open. Snow and rain can develop awesome forces! We, too, had to reroute slightly around a heavy rainfall… Volcanoes and Geysers Not to mention the volcanoes; the eruption in 2010 of Eyjafjallajökull or E15 for short – for the 15 letters in its name ;-) – probably is still a concept for many an airline passenger from that time… Eruption of Eyjafjallajökull or E15 for short I might note that, no matter how many times I tried, I came up with 16 letters. Did the TV announcer simply miscount when he invented the E15 numeronym because no one could remember or pronounce the volcano’s name? And so far no one has double-checked it? (Answer: “E” +15 = 16) Guide to pronouncing the Eyjafjallajökull volcano’s name Be that as it may, the website of an interesting visitor center with a small cinema that shows the E15 volcano eruption can be seen at icelanderupts.is Geologically speaking, Iceland is a very young place. It may have been around for 16 million years, but if you think of the earth’s entire history as a 24 hour clock, then Iceland is a mere five minutes old… So, Iceland, welcome to the planet! And since the earth’s crust is still thinner under Iceland than elsewhere and it sits exactly over where the continental plates are drifting apart, the bubbling and hissing is prodigious here all the time. The Strokkur geyser and its fellows on the one hand proved to be a tourist attraction, but on the other hand, they also furnish cheap endless hot water for all sorts of uses (such as generating the cheap electric power that makes Iceland an important aluminium producer.) Arthúr would prefer to power computer centers with the cheap electricity. It is environmentally friendlier and data is easier to ship than bauxite from Australia… Is there any subject that this fellow does not dabble in? As yet at least, his Wikipedia page has not been updated for this latest interest. My first-ever tour guide with his own Wikipedia page That the geysers can also act up, i.e., spray outside the safety zones, is a discovery made by this young adventurer… Lodgings – The Icelandair Hotels Elegant design hotels are scarce in Iceland. We overnighted in the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica and in the Icelandair Hotels in Fludir and in Keflavik. These four star hotels satisfy high standards, and the food is also very good!! Sunset seen from the Icelandair Hotel in Fludir Should you need a still leaner design for overnight stays, do have a look at the 101 Hotel, CenterHotel Thingholt or the CenterHotel Arnarhvoll in Reykjavik and the Hotel Rangá in Hvolsvollur in South Iceland. Update June 19, 2013: Or check out the elegant design of the ION Luxury Adventure Hotel an hour east of Reykjavik in Southwest Iceland. Exterior view with lava landscape; Foto © ION Hotel Pool at the ION Luxury Adventure Hotel; Foto © ION Hotel Here is a short promotional video about South Iceland: Because brevity is the soul of wit, my impressions from Reykjavik continue in this next article. ## Ladies Night Out in the Spa and the City Champagne Whirlpool in Lucerne Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/art-deco-hotel-montana-lucerne-ladies-night Crazy, what they come up with time and again in Lucerne‘s Art Deco Hotel Montana to keep the guest crowd entertained! The latest example: In the Penthouse Spa Suite they are offering a venue for as special sort of girls night out. The deal is in hot demand … all it takes is an idea! What the bustling hotel director Fritz Erni and his team again and again have been pulling out of the hat in innovative ideas alone for years already is considerable. If he latches on to an idea, then there is not a lot of mulling it over. Anyone who knows this man knows he doesn’t let the grass grow under his feet! Just about every franc of profit is reinvested in the hotel. The “upward spiral” is what the dynamic pacesetter calls it. Always guest-centric, he tries to sense needs early on and then – zap! – to implement them in a visionary way. The latest “accomplishments” like the glass walled conservatory definitely seem to hit the mark. Glassed in restaurant terrace with view of Lucerne’s Old Town Penthouse Spa Suites – can be booked for ladies night out On the top floor high above Lake Lucerne you will find six luxurious and generously equipped spa suites. With steam and experience shower, in-room Jacuzzi and roof deck, large B & O stereo TV and own fitness bike, the unique penthouse Spa Superior Suite is equipped with all imaginable hardships. Sumptuous Penthouse Spa Superior SuiteFoto © Hotel Montana Not to mention the specially commissioned fragrance system, which can bathe the suites in your choice of four different scents… So much for the technology. Another use for the Penthouse Spa Superior Suit was recently advertised on this flyer for “ Spa and the City “: There is plenty of room for up to eight women in the corner suite for stag night or other ladies night. A sexy private butler and his Flying Dinner will be at their beck and call. According to their advertising flyer woman will be able to watch chick flicks as long as she wants. Whew! No kidding… Now, you don’t have to understand a great deal about women to suspect that this is probably just a beautiful theory! Flyer re “Spa and the City” stag night Much more plausible to me seems what that is being bandied about in whispers with furtive looks: that it gets pretty rambunctious in the suites, namely, that the fair ladies who know their way around the intimate oasis will ring for the essentially topless butler, have free flowing champagne served and have the latest erotic playthings and Perosa lingerie modeled! Voilà, Sex in the City after all! And in conservative Switzerland at that, in Catholic Lucerne yet! And neither the Heritage Commission nor Swiss Tourism has intervened? The mind boggles… Be that as it may, because of the demand, they had to assign a reservation agent just to the job of coordinating the dates. The suites are for all intents and purposes fully booked on weekends ! It’s a unique phenomenon for a city hotel…. As to the story of the butler roping down to the Jacuzzi, this is how it played in a filmmaker’s imagination: Day-Spa: Cosmetics and beauty oasis Because the guests staying in this class of city hotel demand a spa, the smallest guest room was turned into a day spa in short order: Now hotel guests and walk-in visitors can recharge here with revitalizing, harmonizing spa treatments. Manager Erni’s daughter Stephanie runs the spa with the same level of energy as her father; no wonder then that this amenity was a big hit from day one, even if it was a bit cramped. So, in April 2013, they took over the adjacent room as well so they could do more treatments. They exclusively use the popular ST. BARTH line of products. Restaurant Scala with Chef Johan Breedijk “The frying Dutchman” Johan Breedijk Chef Johan Breedijk who “honed his magic act” in top restaurants in Ascona has run Scala for the past seven years. And what this Dutchman with 15 Gault Millau conjures up on the plates of up to 120 diners is pure magic! The master of the olive oil… This connoisseur of olive oil lets takes his inspiration from by Mediterranean cuisine and adapts it with great facility to tastes north of the Gotthard Pass. A dash of charm can also be a great help in this at times… Tom Buholzer, manager Fritz Erni, Johan Breedijk, Sarah Stirnimann What Johan Breedijk likes best is to be in the kitchen himself to ensure everyone in the kitchen knows the score: If a plate does not meet his expectations, all plates served to the same table go back to the kitchen and everything is cooked from scratch. He’s demanding down to his fingertips! After a strawberry aperitif, for an appetizer we allowed ourselves to enjoy an essence of parsley with scallops and chanterelle praliné. The main course this time consisted of a “sandwich” of Alsatian poulet suprême and shiitake mushrooms accompanied by an ingenious sweet and sour watermelon(!), zucchini, green asparagus and herb potatoes. And for dessert we enjoyed a cherry gazpacho with poached peach ice cream and poppy seed glacé. The unaccustomed cherry juice let the dessert slide down so smoothly that everyone began to whine when all had been swallowed but there was still room for more. Cold cherry bowl with poached peach and poppy glacé At last, it dawns on us that the Chef treats his guests to a pleasingly light cuisine that accords perfectly with the hotel’s wellbeing concept. Art Deco guest rooms Oh, right, almost forgot about the guest rooms… I was already familiar with the view: Lake Lucerne, the KKL (convention center), Lucerne’s old town, and so on. It’s all spectacular, as we know. The rooms are modern in Art Deco style. Color wise, they are all different, but always with a distinctive dot or stripe pattern. Junior Suite in a relatively toned-down designFoto © Montana Hotel Strong emphasis is obviously placed on the bathrooms. After all, here is where the day starts, so it can be nice and bright and have a view… Bathroom with the legendary rubber ducky Foto © Montana Hotel The Penthouse Spa Suites are in space converted from the hotel staff’s former attic rooms. Today, the space is optimally used, if need be with an experience shower on the Suite’s upper level… Bi-level Penthouse Spa Suite And there is also all of this: a whiskey bar, an original German Wurlitzer and one of Europe’s leading jazz clubs. But I will save that for a future review… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633826823557″ type=”gallery”] No wonder then that the Art Deco Hotel Montana was also chosen as one of the best four-star city hotel of the year in Switzerland. It has the best overall rating among four-star hotels and the first one that is self-financed and not bankrolled as an “expensive hobby” by a wealthy patron saint. Congratulations! Many thanks to Suzanne Nievergelt and Julie Freudiger of the Compresso PR and event agency for the invitation to this publicity event! ## Philippines Tour Part 5: Cebu und Mactan Island Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/cebu-mactan-island Cebu has become an established tourist destination, because it not only has a mild climate but also features a real city plus white sand beaches with luxury resorts, diving, snorkeling and golf courses. From the richly varied Bohol Island und beach destination Panglao (part 4) we embarked on an Oceanjet ferry ride to the island of Cebu, the last stage of our Philippine journey. View of Cebu from the Marco Polo Hotel Cebu is the ninth largest of the 7,107 islands that make up the Philippine archipelago and part of the central group of islands, the Visayas. Cebu, the island’s capital, is a relatively large conurbation with a lot of industry, including the world famous Profood and their main product: dried mangoes. Dried mangoes by Profood We took in a guided tour. Because of the vast facility, you are trundled around on a stretch version of the golf cart between the meters-high stacks of mango crates. They ripen peacably here for three days before tons of them are hand peeled(!). Apparently they were unable to develop a machine adequate for automating this delicate process. The rest of the production process, which takes another four days, is quite industrialized. They employ hundreds of workers in the peeling operation… The impressive tour concludes in the company cinema where they once more bring to life the harvesting and production. You are next given the opportunity to buy dried mangoes or other fruit of various consistencies in the obligatory store. Buy by the bag or box, because the prices are pleasingly low by our standards and the mangoes are very tasty! View from Marco Polo Hotel of Cebu and the Marcelo Fernan suspension bridge Close by Cebu lies the smaller island of Mactan, connected by suspension bridge. Located here, besides the world famous Alegre guitar factory are also the airport and the luxury resorts Shangri-La and Mövenpick. And the little island is also historic, for here, in 1521, the Portuguese navigator Magellan lost his life in a skirmish with the natives. What a pity! Mövenpick Beach and Ibiza Beach Club Mövenpick Cebu Mactan Island The Mövenpick is a hip design hotel with Ibiza Beach Club and top DJ with laid-back live band. The service ist top quality throughout the hotel. The staff is affable and exceptionally and authentically friendly, as is indeed true everywhere in the Philippines. Mövenpick managers Valentina and Charo The food is top-notch, as is the breakfast with four separate and different stations, and the same goes for the “churrasceria”. The “Swiss” here do it right… Truly dedicated – passionately Swiss The guest rooms conform to a good four star standard. They are bright and clean. But, careful: Be sure to book a room with direct ocean view (direction beach club)! Standard guest room The lowest category rooms are in the shadow of the neighboring block and the lateral ocean view looks over the local residential neighborhood. They burn garbage here, and you can smell it all the way up to the 15th floor. This is one place where you don’t want to forego spending on an upgrade… Shangri-La Mactan Resort & Spa A few hundred meters away is the huge Shangri-La resort. This is the place for you if you like classic elegance and wrap-around hotel infrastructure. Not quite our cup of tea necessarily ;-) Seafood soup served in a coconut The Cowrie Cove Restaurant down by the beach is definitely worth a look! We dined very well here on their open terrace. The widely-traveled Hamburg Chef Patrick Buttgereit knows his stuff, without question. The wasabi added to the mashed potatoes made the difference! Pan-seared parrot fish with wasabi mashed potatoes And even in paradise storms can roll in. Then it can get quite dramatic. Full moon and gathering storm with lightning and thunder [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633847275335″ type=”gallery”] This trip was made possible and arranged by the Asia specialists at tourasia and by Singapore Airlines. Thank you for the fabulous tour! ## Brad Pitt Style by the Beach – Ananyana Boutique Hotel, Philippines Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/ananyana-boutique-hotel-brad-pitt-style-beach Bohol is one of the Philippines’ top tourist islands with the Chocolate Hills as one of the main attractions. Panglao is a small island just South-West of Bohol where numerous hotels offer stylish living by the beach. Think Ananyana if you’re looking for a relaxed boutique style stay… A bridge offers easy access to Panglao from Bohol. Alona Beach is Panglao’s bar and party district. If you are into night life you should check out this beach. Anda on Panglao’s South-East cost boasts the whitest beaches possible and nice diving. More and more hotels are building up their presence here. If you care for a more tranquil stay and you are looking for a stylish boutique hotel consider The Ananyana Beach Resort & Spa. Hammocks at Ananyana’s beach Ananyana Boutique Hotel Ananyara staff will pick you up from Tagbilaran airport and give you an easy 20 minutes drive to their hotel. Especially at night you’ll enjoy the elegant and relaxed atmosphere. The lounge, if you can even call the outdoor area that way, is right next to the beach. Open hotel lounge by the beach Hotel Restaurant The restaurant is situated in yet another open space next to lounge and pool. Pool lounger and restaurant Here’s where you will want to taste chef Richard’s creations. The soup and tuna tatar were delicious starters, but the prawns for the main course were simply fabulous! Prawns for mains Thanks, Richard, you’re a good man :-) Chef Richard in the open kitchen Now Richard obviously is not on his own, the whole staff was super friendly and attentive, well done! And when time for dessert came, they let their pyromaniacs lead the way ;-) Flambé! Hotel Rooms and Suites The rooms feature sleek boutique style living at its best, e.g. they have no TVs. You’re supposed to relax properly here… But if you want to really take it to the next level, you may want to ask for the ‘owner’s suite‘ next to the pool. Pool and Owner’s Suite The suite is an amazing open space with curtains dividing it into different zones. The bedroom boasts a huge rattan bed. Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are said to have the exact same model. Anyone in the knows about that? Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s “canopy bed” The “bathroom” is another zone simply divided by curtains. This space concept makes for a huge shower, see the background… Owner’s suite bathtub and shower Atmospheric Spa Design The spa comes in strong Asian colors and authentic decor. Very enticing ;-) Spa treatment room Asian styled spa decor Please find more information on Ananyana’s website. Robinson Crusoe Feeling in Palawan Another commendable Philippine destination is Palawan. It boasts the most spectacular island and Robinson Crusoe setup with top beaches and dive sites. Top hotels are by Anan and the likes… Will have to check those out the next time around… This visit was made possible by Stephan Roemer from Swiss tour operator tourasia and Nina Eberth from Singapore Airlines. Thanks for taking me to the Philippines! Tour guide Gerry of local incoming agency Blue Horizons, thanks for having us! ## Philippines Tour Part 4: Bohol, the Chocolate Hills and Ananyana Boutique Hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/bohol-chocolate-hills-ananyana-boutique-hotel Bohol is one of the more important touristic Philippine islands. Its most famous attraction is the “Chocolate Hills” in the island interior. From there, however, it is not far to the most beautiful sandy beaches… If on this tour (to Part 3) we had the chance to admire numerous beaches, it continues here in Bohol and just as attractively. In the Philippines, they differentiate between four kinds of sandy beaches: Coral (slightly rough sand), sugary (like their local brown muscovado sugar), cream, and sand white as snow. Here, “snow” is of course my interpretation, for it is actually simply “white.” The Chocolate Hills are not that high, after all… The Chocolate Hills The Chocolate Hills are a rise composed of many small hills in the island interior. They are considered one of Bohol‘s main attractions and can be reached easily by car. However, to get to the overlook, you have to drag yourself up a thousand steps – without any intermediate landing. Chocolate Hills on Bohol All right, maybe it just seemed to me that it was a thousand steps and there actually was a landing. But you really start wheezing, and you are sweating the whole time because of the high humidity. The hillocks got the “chocolate” name, by the way, because in summer they turn brown during dry spells and look like they’re made of chocolate. All right, yes, we Swiss are used to something different for both chocolate and hills. Hence, this “attraction” did not exactly knock my socks off. And yes, in Switzerland we are quite spoiled ;-) How these hills were created incidentally is not quite clear. And as always when there are differing theories, adventuresome fairy tales with giants and such inevitably circulate. The Loboc Children’s Choir In Loboc, we had the chance to hear the Loboc Children’s Choir . It was still impressive all right, what the girls and the lad performed. But they do get daily practice, after all… Travel writer Bernard Pichon thought the whole thing was charming and he, in turn, played something for the young ladies as well, using his special technological skills ;-) Loboc Children’s Choir with the travel writer Bernard Pichon Ananyana Boutique Hotel Southwest of Bohol, another small island tags along: At the farthest-removed westerly tip of Panglao Island two beautiful hotels have sprouted. Hotel pool and Owner’s Suite behind it The small Ananyana boutique hotel impressed with a comfortable, open lounge and attractive design. Open hotel lounge by the beach The spacious rooms are furnished rather simply. You will look in vain for a TV; guests come here to relax and not to chase after the latest news. Accordingly, WiFi is also only available in the lounge. The Owner’s Suite is furnished a little less simply: A rattan canopy bed standing in the middle is its gravitational center. Supposedly Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt spend the night in this very same model bed! “Canopy bed”: Sleep like Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt Can anyone confirm this or perhaps just ask the couple? Anyway, as we Italians like to say, “Even if it’s not true, it’s a good yarn…” The bath that’s open to the room certainly also makes a statement! Owner’s Suite bathtub; behind it is the shower. And what Chef Richard can dish out in the open restaurant, once again makes a statement … The courses are all outstanding, with the fish plate definitely first class. Very well prepared fish course And with dessert another “final fireworks” is ignited at which everything that is hot and dangerous is dished up. His pyromaniac bent certainly seems to be well developed … Truly flambé! Bellevue Resort Bohol A stone’s throw from the Ananyara and adjacent to it is a larger hotel, the Bellevue Resort Bohol. Lobby luminaires in the Bellevue Resort on Panglao Despite its large dimensions, the hotel manages to come across as quite elegant. Floor lamp and sofa in guest room Especially at night, there are some attractively illuminated areas like the bar or the hotel pool. Bellevue Resort pool at night The beach in back of both hotels is very quiet. Anyone more interested in “loud and crowded” should look for a hotel along Alona Beach: It is lined with scores of restaurants, bars, and music clubs. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633793175781″ type=”gallery”] Oh! And I almost forgot: yes, Bohol is, of course, also the home of the world’s smallest primates, the tarsiers, those cute, fist-sized critters. Tarsier In the fifth and last part of this article series we take another ferry, this time to the island of Cebu. This trip was made possible and arranged by the Asia specialists at tourasia and by Singapore Airlines. Thank you for a fabulous tour! ## Philippines Tour Part 3: The atmosphere Resort & Spa and a Cockfight Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/atmosphere-resort-spa-cockfight From tranquil Sipalay City, we continued on toward Dauin / Demaguete to the atmosphere Resort & Spa luxury hotel. On the way, however, there first was some “spat” in the cockfighting arena… From Sipalay City (part 2 of 5) we made our way over secluded roads to Dauin near Demaguete and the atmosphere Resort & Spa. Bungalow at the atmosphere Resort Diving and snorkeling off Apo Island One of the hotel’s features is also a dive center with Swiss staff. As is common in the Philippines, you take an outrigger boat to your dive spots. Of interest for snorkelers as well is a trip to Apo Island. The island is visible from the hotel and the crossing takes about 30 minutes. We observed giant tortoises very close to the beach, and much more. The dive boat ladder There is a lot to see on the variegated coral reef for snorkelers as well. Snorkeling over the coral reef off Apo Island Apo island at sunrise The atmosphere Resort’s garden, golf green and barbecue by the pool On arrival, I was particularly struck by the fairway-like lawn that connects the bungalows to the restaurant, the pool and the beach. Walkways there were none; you simply walk on the cotton-soft lawn and imagine yourself on an above-average golf course… In the evenings, the trees are illuminated to create mood and help you find your way. Nighttime illumination in the garden The pool with its bar is located down by the beach, where the tasty barbecue is also served. On the table materializes what the sea has yielded up hours before. This is paradise for those who love fish and marine critters of all kinds. Evening by the pool Beach barbecue But not only does the pool create atmosphere in the evening, but rising early in the morning also has its rewards… The pool and beach at dawn Atmosphere Resort Bungalows The bungalows are “extremely” large-dimensioned. In addition to a spacious living room and bedroom, they have fully equipped kitchens. And there are outer and inner patios, where you can take a shower in the open air if you like. Bedroom with double bed and private patio All rooms come equipped with fast WiFi. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633785368078″ type=”gallery”] Cockfights In the vicinity of the resort on the way to Demaguete is a cockfighting arena . It may not be for everybody, but, since the Philippines are the only place in Asia where cockfighting is still legal, and it was Sunday, I decided to have a look at one. Raising fighting cocks Once the cocks have aggressively plucked away at each other and so give a preview of their competitive strength, bets are taken. It is loud and hectic. Everybody is yelling back and forth and over each other at the tops of their lungs. When enough cash has been put up, the fighting roosters are let loose. At first, they just stand there for a few seconds and gawk all around. But in an instant, it starts, and they attack each like they’d been stung by a tarantula, flapping all over each other in a blur that makes it hard to see what’s what. Cock fight And just as suddenly, after a brief struggle, one of them lies dead on the ground, since they have a long blade strapped to one leg. The owner of the winning cock gets the wagered amount minus the broker’s fees, the loser ends up in the Sunday soup pot. Another fight follows, with more betting. Cockfight referee with ‘Swiss” participation! In this context, the English word “cockpit” takes on a whole new meaning. It raises the question why we call it an airplane “cockpit”? In Part 4 of this article series, we continue on by ferry to Bohol Island. This trip was made possible by the Asia specialists at tourasia and Singapore Airlines. Thank you very much! Click here for the homepage of the atmosphere Resort & Spa. ## Philippines Tour Part 2: Sipalay City und Snorkeling with Artistic Diving Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/sipalay-city-snorkeling-artistic-diving The next day we drove on rustic coastal roads to Sipalay City and a beach hotel with the Artistic Diving dive center. On the way, there was “all kinds of traffic”… After traveling by way of Manila (Part 1) and Bacolod, Silay and Talisay we continued to the little village of Sipalay City on the west side of Negros. The drive took us down picturesque coastal roads with views of palm fringed beaches and the ocean. The overland transport is handled roughly the same way every time: Pile on everything you can, so much so that the driver can even wind up sitting on the gas tank. The saddle may already have triple occupancy riding sidesaddle… Driver sits on the tank; the saddle is also triple occupied… Farther up country, the seating availability is measured out a little more generously. Here the driver even has time to look at the camera before the next curve looms… Traveling on picturesque coastal roads It sometimes does require that goats ride on the roof. Transporting goats on the car roof [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633758507646″ type=”gallery”] But not everyone is comparably motorized. Rice planting is still done by hand. Filipino rice farmers planting No tractors to be seen for miles around either. Instead, from time to time, there is a water buffalo. Farmer with water buffalo tilling his field Once arrived in Sipalay City you can forget about the “city” part – but we, in any case, have booked a tour away from the tourist stream… Still, the local fish market has something to offer visually. Whatever the ocean yields up is hacked and chopped up here. Fish market in Sipalay City Here, too, land transport is a very important consideration. This is what the delivery of a freshly caught frozen yellow fin tuna looks like, Filipino style. Fresh fish delivered with elegantly extended pinky It is only a short ride on side streets from the “city” to the sand and palm-fringed beaches of Punta Ballo. Passing by the locals’ raft houses and outrigger boats, we drive through dense rain forest toward the resorts. Local raft house and outrigger boat The Artistic Diving Resort and the other hotels on the beach are nicely set back in the palm grove and feature various types of rooms and swimming pools, but overall they can be categorized as basic hotels. Fittingly, the crowd is rather young and the music inescapable. Punta Ballo: The beach at Sipalay Of course, the beach barbeque is an experience nonetheless, especially as it is prepared on a more or less improvised grill. The local reef is also rather plain; besides the corals, there are sea slugs, crabs or morays at least. A bit farther out lie World War II vintage shipwrecks. Snorkelers have the opportunity for enjoying coral banks close to the beach. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633758601656″ type=”gallery”] In the third part in this article series we continue on to Dauin/Dumaguete, a marvelous resort! and a cockfight… This trip was made possible by… Sincere thanks to Stephan Roemer with the Asia specialist tourasia for the invitation to this inspiring tour of the Philippines that the German-speaking, local tour director Jerry organized perfectly! Also, a big thanks to Nina Eberth with Singapore Airlines for the generous flight arrangements! ## Philippine Tour of the 7,000 Islands – Part 1: Manila – Negros Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/7000-islands-manila-negros The Philippine nation spreads over 7,107 islands. Depending on the tides… On being invited by tourasia, the Asia tour organizer, and Singapore Airlines, we set out to explore this Southeast Asian archipelago. We didn’t make it to 7,000 islands, but we touched on one here and there. But let’s start from the beginning… The most direct way from Zurich to Manila is by Singapore Airlines. Many tourists continue right on from here, because the mega metropolis of 15 million inhabitants doesn’t exactly radiate its charms right up front. But, as always, it pays to take a closer look… If you insist on classic elegance and extensive infrastructure, you will do well lodging in the Fairmont Makati. They have giant rooms and you will truly not want for anything! If you prefer a boutique hotel instead, take a closer look at the Bayleaf Intramuros. Its design and the only roof terrace in Manila argue strongly for it… View of the Fort golf course and Manila skyline But, yes, it’s also true that Manila has Southeast Asia’s largest slum. The rich live isolated behind walls in their exclusive “Golden Ghetto” residential areas. In the evenings, there are all kinds of goings on: probably ever since Spanish colonial times, the inhabitants of Manila (Manilans or Manileños) pull noisy all-nighters. You get to experience their proverbial friendliness quite quickly. You feel WARMLY welcomed everywhere you go; their big smiles really do come across as genuine. An example that quite a few tourist regions could learn from… Friendly servers in the Fairmont Makati As for the traffic, I did not think Manila was all that bad. It must be said, however, that we were mainly moving around during off-hours. During rush hour, it can take several hours to go long distance. Since there is no subway, the legendary jeepneys bear the brunt of the traffic. Jeepneys in Manila These US army jeep conversions were inherited from the American protectorate: They drive them everywhere in the country and on the island in stretch, half-stretch and any number of other versions: jeep in front, bus in the back is the operative concept . [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633600706303″ type=”gallery”] Manila’s old town Manila possesses structures not typically found in Asia, holdovers from the Spanish colonial period such as fortresses and churches, and they are therefore often referred to as Spanish. In general, here they speak an intriguing mix of Filipino, English and a few scraps of Spanish. A simple “derecho” in any event will hail a jeepney driver and tell him to drive straight on. Elegant horse drawn carriage at Fort Santiago Evocatively, the old town behind the ancient ramparts is called “Intramuros“. The massive stone walls once served as the main line of defense against invaders from the seaward side. “Heavily guarded” Fort Santiago Flight from Manila to Bacolod on the island of Negros We had landed at Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport . But for the onward journey, our flight left from Manila’s Centennial Airport. And I believe there is also a third airport. The traveler is therefore well advised to check not just if it is the correct terminal but if it is the right airport first. And allow sufficient extra time to get to the airport, because the traffic can always still jam up… Busy Manila airfield From Manila, our tourasia round trip took us to Visayas, a central group of islands, where we explored the islands of Negros, Bohol and Cebu and some of their neighboring islands. A 75 minute flight took us first to Bacolod on Negros Island. This area rich in sugar cane is famous for its brown muscovado sugar and the Hawaiian-Philippine Company that produces it. “Hawaiian,” because at some point they discovered that it was not necessary to ship the sugar cane to Hawaii for processing but could instead import Hawaiian workers… old-style globalization, in a sense. Steam engine of the Hawaiian-Philippine Company for transporting sugar cane These days, sugar cane production has fallen behind production in other parts of the world, for lack of efficient industrialization on Negros. They would much rather offer the local families “sufficient manual labor jobs”. How well the sugar barons must have fared, however, can be seen from the example of a typical mansion in Talisay. The elegant wooden mansion has all imaginable conveniences, and on the walls hang pictures of the prudent widow of the master of the house in the company of the-then President of the Philippines… You were admitted to this part of the living quarters only if you were important enough. Receiving room in a sugar baron’s mansion Wooden facades provides good ventilation against the oppressive, humid heat. The walls are made of translucent shells and make the rooms brighter even with the sun blinds closed. “Airy” wooden façade at night [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633746615666″ type=”gallery”] More to follow in the second part of this series of travel articles To Sipalay. Many thanks to tourasia and Singapore Airlines! Sincere thanks to Stephan Roemer with the Asia specialist tourasia for the invitation to this inspiring tour of the Philippines that the German-speaking, local tour director Jerry organized perfectly! Also, a big thanks to Nina Eberth with Singapore Airlines for the generous flight arrangements! And last but not least, we thank Susanne Schmitt with Primus Communications PR agency for putting us in touch with tourasia. ## Swiss Beach-Clubbing in the Philippines – Mövenpick Hotel Mactan Island Cebu Source: https://travelmemo.com/philippines/moevenpick-hotel-mactan-island-cebu-design-beach Mövenpick Hotel Mactan Island Cebu offers hip living by the beach. An Ibiza inspired lush beach club suggests white barefoot elegance at its best. Stylish furniture, decor and lighting make for an excellent stay in Cebu, one of 7107 Philippine islands. Ranking as the nine largest island of this South-East Asian archipelago, Cebu is a major industrial city hosting the likes of Profood, one of the World’s largest producer of dried mango and other fruit. But also smaller outlets like renowned Alegre Guitars name Cebu their home. Moevenpick Cebu Hotel Marcelo Fernan suspension bridge Marcelo Fernan suspension bridge connects bustling Cebu and the small island Mactan. Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan happened to be killed here 1521 in a tribal skirmish. Also Cebu’s Mactan International Airport is situated on the island. In the beach area, an easy 10 minutes drive from the airport, you will find the two 5-star hotels Shangri-La Mactan Resort and Spa and Mövenpick Mactan Island Resort and Spa. While the first shines in classy ambience and the stellar Cowrie Cove restaurant by the beach, the latter is a trendy beachfront resort with an Ibiza Beach Club, private beach and a hip lifestyle experience. Ibiza Beach Club deck The white Ibiza Beach Club and its wooden deck is at the heart of a relaxed ‘barefoot elegance’ concept promoted throughout the pool and beach area. Its idyllic location together with a wedding gazebo offer perfect conditions for different types of events. Wedding gazebo and Ibiza Beach Club Renowned Filipino hospitality is the topping… I dubbed them “aggressively friendly”, as in genuinely friendly! And should things still boil over, you can always try the garden cabanas or one of the semi-submerged aqua seating areas. Relax in style… Chill in style in semi-submerged aqua loungers! At night the pier club turns into a blue light and DJ inspired music spectacle. Mövenpick Cebu’s Ibiza Beach Club at night “The Sails” All Day Dining Restaurant The Sails is where you’ll enjoy your famous Mövenpick breakfast buffet. It comprises of several stations with Asian delicacies but also Swiss style müsli. And also the Spanish heritage is visible via tasty Chorizo sausages. Ferrari styled hotel lobby sails As the name suggests you can also have lunch and dinner at The Sails. According to your preferences you may as well want to check the more casual Ibiza Beach Club Indoor – which serves Mediterranean and Spanish tapas together with a nice bottle of wine… Ibiza Beach Club Indoor’s wine selection Hotel Rooms The deluxe and suite hotel rooms are elegantly equipped and most of them boast spectacular views of the ocean or vantage points overlooking Mactan Island. Standard room type hotel bed The presidential suite has a one of a kind view of the jetty port underneath. View from presidential suite And also the bathroom looks reasonably spacious. Let alone the living room… Lavabos in presidential suite bathroom Presidential suite living room Too bad these guys — and girls, in modern times — are supposed to work all the time… Mactan Island / Cebu Activities Mövenpick Hotel Mactan Cebu is conveniently located beside a jetty port which makes accessing the surrounding dive sites and tropical islands easy. There are also a few golf courses around but their layout didn’t look all too exciting. I didn’t try them this time around. Mind you, depending on the season you’re already sweating just hanging around somewhere in the shadow… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633715712782″ type=”gallery”] This Visit Was Made Possible by… Thanks a lot Sasha for coordinating my visit and Valentina and Charo for showing me around! Mövenpick managers Valentina and Charo And thanks to Jessica Esser from the Mövenpick Headquarters for hinting me to this marvellous hideaway! And last but not least thanks to Stephan Roemer from Swiss tour operator tourasia and Nina Eberth from Singapore Airlines for taking me to the Philippines in the first place! ## W Barcelona — Iconic Design Hotel on Barceloneta’s Beach Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/w-hotel-barcelona-iconic-design-hotel-beach-barceloneta W Barcelona is a sail shaped (Hotel Vela) 5-star hotel at the new harbour facilities. World-renowned Barcelona based architect Ricardo Bofill planned the lifestyle hotel as one of numerous new buildings that make up the Barceloneta refurbishment along the beachfront. Come with us, guest relations manager Vera is giving us a tour! Iconic hotel design From the outside W Barcelona is eye-catching already. You can spot the hotel’s sail shaped main building from far away. Say while arriving by plane… Vueling landing in Barcelona. W Hotel “sail” reflecting sun light in harbour area But mind you, the hotel is not situated in the ‘city centre’! I.e. you better grab a taxi from here when taking to the city’s historic attractions since the hotel’s location at the outmost end of the new harbour mole may offer spectacular city and sea views but it is also relatively remote for pedestrians. I hired a bicycle rickshaw to get there in style ;-) Walter entering W Barcelona W Insider Xavi and guest relations manager Vera were so kind to show me around the impressive design hotel. Inside the hotel is roomy, elegant and stylish. With 473 guest rooms and suites it’s huge but you wouldn’t tell from the experience. It feels more like a cosy design hotel. The reception area is very generous with several desks and an atrium many, many stores high. You’re in awe the moment you enter the building. Hotel Rooms at W Barcelona First things we took to see the hotel rooms. I was blown away by the ‘standard’ Wonderful room type already. Given the hotel’s perpendicular orientation towards both sides of the beach all hotel rooms offer amazing views of Barcelona’s shoreline, the city and the sea likewise. View of Barceloneta from ‘Wonderful’ hotel room Once I recovered from the view you enjoy right from your hotel bed I quickly noticed that the room’s design is fully up to par with Barcelona’s and W’s own high design standards. Stark color contrasts and a stylish bath room make for an impeccable experience. W Barcelona (standard) Wonderful room type Not to mention the minibar, as it comes with a twist — I’ve never felt urged to have a drink at checking into a room like here… W Barcelona minibar with a view So much for the ‘typical’ hotel room. We now could take the elevator and go down to check out the hotel’s restaurants and listen to the DJ at the bar. But… as a travel blogger you’ve also GOT to check out some other room types, say a WOW Suite? At 31 square meters the lofty exterior terrace alone is a jaw-dropping experience! But also the full-fledged living room and the spacious bedroom(s) are equally impressive… WOW Suite living room WOW Suite bedroom and bath Enough already, let’s go down and recover by the bar… W Bar and WAVE Restaurant Eventuelly you’ve deserved to sip from your drink and listen to the DJ at the bar or the lounge next to it. DJ Kareem Junior at W Bar And after this and the numerous impressions you’ll obviously be hungry. This is when you may want to move over to the WAVE restaurant. Its elegant atmosphere is impressive day and night. Either the sun or the lighting will playfully enhance the stylish decor. Wave restaurant reception If you prefer to treat yourself to tapas or even the full gourmet dinner, you will want to venture into the first floor. This is the realm of renowned Michelin star chef Carles Abellan‘s Bravo 24 restaurant. Bravo restaurant by renowned chef Carles Abellan The tapas bar is orchestrated around the preparation area where barman Alberto and his colleagues put together the best and the finest Spanish tapas tradition has on offer. Cava at Bravo 24 tapas bar We left testing the actual gourmet restaurant for the next time we visit bustling Barcelona… The tapas were all promising already! Eclipse Bar — Blueish Drinks with a View After dinner you can’t miss the Eclipse bar. Take the dedicated elevator to the top floor where an all blue bar is nestled into the glass and steel construction. Eclipse sky bar Eclipse bar easily offers the most spectacular views of Barcelona’s harbour district and its surroundings. View of Barcelona and Montjuïc from Eclipse bar by night Phew, what a location! Time to finally get a good night’s sleep, see you around! [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633643548261″ type=”gallery”] And our Gratitude Goes to… This trip was made possible by Swiss travel agent travel.ch and their go-getting CEO Inka Nobel. Many thanks also to city trip specialist Martina Schmidlin for putting together the itinerary! And thanks to Susanne Schmitt from travel PR agency Primus Communications for hinting me to this opportunity! ## W Hotel Singapore — Stylish Colors next to Sentosa Cove Marina Source: https://travelmemo.com/singapore/w-hotel-sentosa-island-cove-singapore W Singapore — Sentosa Cove opened in October 2012 next to the stylish Sentosa Cove marina. Conveniently located on Sentosa Island next to a whole bunch of new elegant restaurants and condominiums, W Singapore features its typical design centric approach to decoration, colors and lighting. W logos beside main hotel entrance And as per usual with W hotels you won’t miss the DJ. His sound mix is available via BOSE sound system in different variations throughout the hotel, including hotel rooms and an underwater sound system. Which, as a little side note, should be tuned to be louder since your own underwater breathing noise is considerable… Had sales and marketing manager Supriah not pointed out the underwater music I would not have noticed. W Singapore pool bar at night Anyway, the design is rich in anecdotes and referrals to the local purple orchid. Hence the ornamental patterns and according purple lighting. Spa pool Everyone in the hotel from the approachable French general manager Stephane to the waiters in the restaurant will proudly hint to the stylish decor items. Evening ambience in hotel lobby with managing director Stephane SKIRT – W Singapore’s Hotel Restaurant Restaurant “SKIRT” One of the hotel’s numerous highlights is it’s SKIRT steak restaurant. Australian chef Andrew Nocente and his team focus on high quality Australian meat and unusual cuts such as ‘SKIRT’. The delicately prepared meat makes for an awesome food experience, indeed, we enjoyed it a mountain! SKIRT beef Wellington Apparently the SKIRT restaurant is quickly developing into Singapore’s latest foody hotspot. According testimonials come from the likes of entrepreneur Tjin Lee, Audi Fashion Festival director. Beware of the prices on the wine list, though, for prices are extremely steep! Or what do you call $20 for wine by the glass? Bottle prices start at $150 and easily go over $250… W Singapore Rooms Bathroom in Away room category The hotel rooms come in the usual W types Fabulous, Away or the stellar WOW Suite. WOW Suite living room On this occurrence the latter features a cosy living room, a sleek bed room with a huge bath tub and a terrace with its own infinity pool overlooking the yachts in the marina. No less… View of marina from WOW Suite plunge pool Sentosa Island Sentosa Island is easily accessible by taxi, monorail, and even funicular as it features a huge entertainment complex including Asia’s largest aquarium, two golf courses and the merlion landmark. Illuminated merlion The taxi to the city Centre costs around $15, the transfer to Changi Airport costs just over $30. Make sure you ask for a credit card reader if you don’t plan to pay with Singapore dollars. I had to dribble around as this particular taxi was not equipped like most other taxis are. But the driver was very helpful and helped me out. This Trip was Made Possible by… Many thanks to W’s PR manager Dawn for making this booking possible! And best wishes to marketing and sales manager Supriya, thanks for showing me around the lovely property! Also MD Stephane was supportive in helping me understand the interior design concept. Walter and Supriya Ghosh in the elevator And also a hearty dankeschön to SWISS Airlines who made this trip possible via the inauguration of their new routing Zurich – Singapore. Singer at gala dinner at Singapore’s new Cruise Center ## SWISS Zurich – Singapore Inaugural Flight Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/swiss-zurich-singapore-inaugural-flight When we airline passengers step into a plane to anywhere, we are mostly unaware of this: For a new flight route to take off takes years of planning! SWISS, on the occasion of its inaugural flight Zurich to Singapore, provided a few glimpses of what it takes for such a “project” to get off the ground: We started off at the gate in Zurich already with a small ceremony and speeches by SWISS CEO Harry Hochmeister, airport CEO Thomas Kern and Switzerland’s ambassador to Singapore Thomas Kupfer. From left, SWISS Captain Andreas Votsch, Airport CEO Thomas Kern, SWISS CEO Harry Hohmeister and Switzerland’s ambassador to Singapore Thomas Kupfer The speeches highlighted the economic importance of the route and the investment of CHF 300 million it took before all the studies, landing rights and the necessary flight equipment including staffing were in place. On board, we were served a refreshing drink that fit the destination. Chief purser Claudine von Gunten The night flight was smooth and at 12 hours a bit on the long side. SWISS invited me to get comfortable in Business Class. That naturally helps to make it a pleasant and diverting flight. Yours truly could not have wished for anything more: The menu of Graubünden specialties created by gourmet Chef Martin Göschel was an excellent treat for the palate and the Pinot Noir that came with it of course complemented it very nicely… Should you wish to try Martin Göschel’s cuisine without a flight, you can turn to the Hotel Paradies in Ftan. On-time Arrival at Singapore’s Changi Airport Changi Airport, Singapore At the gate In Singapore’s award-winning Changi Airport there was another small ceremony with lots of smiles, photos and a giveaway for passengers – a small gift of chocolate. One wonders if perhaps something else could have been brought along on a flight from Switzerland… And so it would have ended for the standard passenger. From now on you can take SWISS Airlines daily direct to Singapore. With a 10:45 p.m. departure from Zurich Kloten, the flight is scheduled to arrive at Singapore at 5:10 p.m. local time, the time difference being 6 to 7 hours depending on the time of year. Previously there had been only a Singapore Airlines non-stop flight connecting the two lion cities. Merlion near Marina Bay Sands Hotel The return flight times are even more convenient: You leave Singapore at 11:10 in the evening, giving you the whole day there in other words, and then land in Zurich relatively rested at 6 in the morning. Again, the entire day lies ahead for you. Depending on the jet stream, this flight lasts around twelve and a half hours. Marina Bay Sands Hotel, Casino, Art Museum, Mall What most of us tourists don’t realize is that behind the scenes decision makers had to be convinced, business plans had to be written and many negotiations with Asian partners had to be conducted. If you’ve done business in Asia, you will know what this can involve: a series of meetings at which everything under the sun is talked about, just not the conditions for the new air route… It’s not until nearly the very last moment that you hear “oh, by the way…”? And that is when these negotiators begin to burn the midnight oil… Gala Dinner in the New Singapore Cruise Terminal Entry to the gala dinner The day after the inaugural flight, a gala dinner for all involved parties from the SWISS and Singapore sides was arranged. Switzerland Tourism and the ETH (the Zurich-based Federal Technical University) were also represented. Table at the gala dinner The event was ably moderated by Max Loong. Okay, so he was backed up by a spectacular visual media presentation… Moderator Max Loong in front of the Matterhorn The gala menu, once more created by Martin Göschel, was an outstanding taste fest! They cooked and frizzled in two kitchens simultaneously as fast as they could for the more than one hundred guests. But I’ll let my photos speak… Chef Martin Goeschel from Hotel Paradies in Ftan Rare filet with Engadine grits and Jura truffles The gourmet treat was accompanied by a varied and very attractive musical treat. I thought the colorful barrel drums were most spectacular (but too hard to photograph.) [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633526395017″ type=”gallery”] Sincere thanks to the SWISS communications group around Daniel Bärlocher, Sonja Ptassek und Reto Hoffmann for the invitation and the glimpses behind the scenes! And here is the video shot by Reto Hoffmann: ## Classy Le Méridien Singapore on Sentosa Island Source: https://travelmemo.com/singapore/le-meridien-singapore-hotel-sentosa-island Not far from Singapore’s city center you’ll find an oasis of tranquility and style. Former Mövenpick Heritage Hotel is now Le Méridien Singapore and offers a luxury hotel situated on Sentosa Island, Singapore’s entertainment and beach island. Illuminated facade Le Méridien Singapore hotel comes in a classy building with warm interior design. Lounge Hotel rooms The rooms feature sleek design and modern infrastructure. In no time had I hooked up my laptop to the TV set in order to listen to my own music. Hotel room The bathroom is very generous, modern and spacious. Toto lavabo Also the dinner buffet is very tasty and varied. Of all already excellent items I thought the scallop soup was outstanding! Dinner buffet Le Méridien Singapore is situated right next to Sentosa Island’s entertainment park and one of its four monorail stations. And the Merlion, of course… Illuminated Merlion and chess on hotel terrace Activities – What to Do on Sentosa Island Sentosa Island features the exclusive Sentosa Golf Club, home to the prestigious tournaments HSBC Women’s Champions and the Asian Tour. Needless to say that given the location on an island you will be facing countless water hazards… The Serapong Course, revamped in 2007, is a challenge not only due to its ondulated terrain but also the spectacular Singapore harbour backdrop. The same is true for the Tanjong Course, except that it has the South China Sea for a backdrop. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to personally play a round this time around. You can get really busy when trying to check out Singapore in just two days… Illuminated entertainment park There’s also a huge entertainment park with one of the World’s largest aquariums and access via monorail, car, bus or air cable car. Air cable car over Sentosa Island And then there are also popular beaches, all accessible via monorail or bus. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633628930104″ type=”gallery”] A hearty dankeschön to SWISS Airlines for making this trip possible via the inauguration of their new daily routing Zurich – Singapore! Here’s an according report on their inaugurational flight and gala dinner (in German, photos in English). ## 4 hotels, 60 Gault Millau Points, 500 Kilometers – Relais & Châteaux on a Harley-Davidson Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/relais-chateaux-route-du-bonheur-harley-davidson On the invitation of Richard Guyon of Relais & Chateaux Hotels, we rumbled for three days through Romandy on three Harley Davidson choppers to savor the gourmet menus of four of his luxury hotels. The Relais & Chateaux Routes du Bonheur Relais & Châteaux calls their tour concept “Route du Bonheur”: Select hoteliers and restaurateurs join together to invite pleasure-loving travelers on a gourmet tour that takes them from one restaurant (relais) or hotel (château) to the next. You can do it in your own car, in a vintage automobile or, thanks to an arrangement with Harley-Davidson, on a choppers that you book along with the hotel accommodations. Harley-Davidson flag in front of Hotel Beau-Rivage in Neuchâtel Relais & Châteaux have assembled on their website 38 proposals for Routes du Bonheur. These are meant to be suggestions; you are also free to map out your individual trail. Route du Bonheur “Romandy Quick Selection” We started our Harley-Davidson gourmet tour at the Grand Hotel du Lac in Vevey, where we Harley rockers met for dinner. Harley-Davidson group photo in front of the Grand Hotel du Lac Prior to the elegant five-course repast, we made the death’s head and heavy boots discreetly disappear in our room. Not sure how they would have gone over in the noble five star establishment. Harley-Davidson leather jacket Foto © Christine Hinnen of woertlich.ch On day two, with road captain Pierre Berclaz in the lead, we powered along bucolic side roads through the Bernese Seeland to lunch in the Vieux Manoir Hotel in the vicinity of Murten. Harley-Davidson convoy arriving at the Landhaus Le Vieux Manoir near Murten This event filled day ended with an evening at the Hotel Beau-Rivage in Neuchâtel. Harley-Davidson choppers in front of the Hotel Beau Rivage in Neuchâtel The third day took us into the Wallis via Gruyères and Col des Mosses and then we climbed up to Leukerbad to the Les Source des Alpes thermal spa hotel. From left, Christine Hinnen, Road Captain Pierre Berclaz, Sabine Biedermann, Vreni and Jürg Dedial, Walter Schärer in front of the Hotel Les Sources des Alpes And on the fourth and final leg took us back by way of Vevey to Morges, where we turned our machines in to the local Harley-Davidson dealer. Relais & Châteaux Grand Hotel du Lac in Vevey Before hitting the trail, we met for an evening meal at the Grand Hotel du Lac on the shore of Lake Geneva, or Lac Léman as the locals call it. Table fork sculpture near Vevey in Lake Geneva Hotel manager Christopher Rudolph – “maître de maison” in the Relais & Châteaux dictionary – and Marketing and Sales manager John Orlandi that evening regaled us to the point of dizziness, beginning with aperitifs in the wine cellar, sommelier Clément ringing in the evening “at his place”… Sommelier Clement in the wine cellar with the Harley riders Duo filet of whitefish and filet of rabbit, Taggiasca olives, green asparagus argan oil Relais & Châteaux Le Vieux Manoir in Murten Maître de maison Daniel Ziegler and head of Marketing Ulrike Ruf welcomed us for lunch here in their luxurious, 100-year old Le Vieux Manoir in Murten. Le Vieux Manoir Hotel in Murten The exclusive location on Lake Murten and the gourmet courses on the sun terrace made for very satisfied faces all round. A superlative experience! Red Snapper with apple duo, sweet potatoes, tapioca Relais & Châteaux Beau Rivage Hotel in Neuchâtel Owner and maître de maison of the Hotel Beau-Rivage Thomas Maechler welcomed our Harley convoy at the hotel driveway with a tray of beers at the ready. It was a welcome end to a sunny (!) day on the road ;-) Owner and maître de maison of the Hotel Beau-Rivage Thomas Maechler receives us according to protocol… That evening, Chef Eric Mazéas’ team didn’t “let anything burn” and cooked up a storm that kept the pans bubbling. Breton lobster in regional apple juice and apple cider But here, too, we started with the “kitchen aperitif,” which let us peek over the shoulders of all the distinguished experts around pastry chef Djamal. Relais & Châteaux Les Sources des Alpes in Leukerbad When maître de maison Pierre Berclaz arrives by Harley at his hotel Les Sources des Alpes in Leukerbad, the rocker in black leather gearturns instantly into a smartly-dressed hotel manager in a black suit. Your hat, monsieur le directeur! Maître de maison Pierre Berclaz in the wine cellar with sommelier Dario Here also, we first descend into the atmospheric wine cellar guided by Sommelier Dario, for a tasting of local white wines. I had known “sort of” for some time that there were good Wallis white wines, but here we were where they actually know them by name. And, above all, where to get them… And as befits a Relais & Châteaux establishment, Chef Laurent Omphalus permits on the plate only that which looks appetizing and tastes superbly… Grilled locust lobsters on mushroom salad with salicornia, cornet with mousse of freshly smoked cheese Harley-Davidson Softail Slim – also known as Fatboy… Harley-Davidson Softail Slim on the Col des Mosses The matte black Slim Tail is a low rider in the style of a dragster or fat boy. The deep sonorous exhaust not only lays down a first-rate sound blanket, but also gives a brawny judder at the slightest tap on the gas. The air-cooled twin cam engine with over 1,600 cc produces a ridiculous amount of power that is stamped on the asphalt by the beefy, upside-down fork and fat tires front and rear. For real bad boys only… Walter Schärer on the Harley-Davidson Softail SlimFoto © Christine Hinnen von woertlich.ch A Softail Heritage and Softail Custom also took to the trail. Even though the Heritage has the same engine as the Slimtail, it has slightly softer ride and the windshield makes for a quieter ride, especially in town. The Custom Harley is a modified Softail for aficionados. The tank and front fork are original; everything else has been modified to make it wider, louder and badder. Death’s head included! Special muffler system on the Custom Softail Swiss Routes du Bonheur Relais & Châteaux provides road maps specifically for their Routes du Bonheur. Their recommended Swiss tour is somewhat longer than our abbreviated version. “Harley-Davidson” Route du Bonheur per road captain Pierre Berclaz of Source des Alpes A word of warning: A superb gourmet menu accompanied by highly attentive service is UNDENIABLY very important to the management of Relais & Châteaux hotels. Ingesting such quality for daily lunch and dinner is bound to get your fitness coach in your face! Especially since the breakfast buffet is not exactly small-bore either… In this connection, our route had the advantage of the hotels in Vevey, Murten and Neuenburg being situated right by the lake, and so we could do some light jogging before breakfast along the lake or even stroke a few kilometers in the lake. In Leukerbad, too, the calorie burner is provided for: At 7 a.m., it’s into the thermal pool. Indoors or outdoors, at 34 degrees. Before you know it, the pulse rate is up and you’re launched on the day. I tried it! And while we’re on the subject, here’s word of warning II: The official program advertises other attractions along the way. Time can get a little short because of those gourmet menu stops, and it is regrettable when you arrive late at the next hotel and miss out on enjoying all of its amenities. In that spirit, I recommend rather taking fewer side trips and instead enjoying these magnificent establishments to the hilt!! But anyone still interested in spite of “missing out” like this can best find out about customized itineraries by calling the toll-free Swiss number 0800 200 000 02, or +49 69 96 75 91 17 from Germany. Both numbers will put you in touch with Central Reservations. You can choose from 29 Relais & Châteaux hotels in Switzerland and Liechtenstein. There are another 27 in Germany, plus many more worldwide. If that doesn’t start your engine… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633476877562″ type=”gallery”] Anyone like us who does not want to pay for the luxury of an accompanying luggage transport car should also check out the SBB’s luggage transport service. They will carry the luggage from staging point to staging point… Thank you! Warm thanks to Richard Guyon, manager for the Switzerland and Liechtenstein Relais & Châteaux, for the generous invitation! It was truly an unforgettable experience! Also effusive thanks to each and every one of the Relais & Châteaux managers: Christopher Rudolph of the Grand Hotel du Lac in Vevey Daniel Ziegler of the Vieux Manoir in Murten Thomas Maechler of the Beau Rivage Hotel in Neuchâtel Pierre Berclaz of the Sources des Alpes in Leukerbad and their teams. They left no wish unfulfilled! We will highly recommend their respective establishments to others ;-) Also, to Sabine Biedermann of Primus Communications a warm thank you for organizing the tour and shooting video along the way ;-) And last but not least, I thank an ever- helpful Philip Schärly of the Bixe Harley-Davidson dealer in Hünenberg. That is where I got the motorcycle and my complete leather outfit. ## Dining and staying in the atmospheric Grand Hotel du Lac in Vevey Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/relais-chateaux-grand-hotel-du-lac-vevey From its prominent site on the shore of Lake Geneva in Vevey, the Relais & Chateau Grand Hotel du Lac looks out upon a magnificent panorama of lake and Alps. At the invitation of Richard Guyon of Relais & Châteaux, we sojourned by Lake Geneva, in order to experience for the first time the concept of the “Route du Bonheur” by Relais & Châteaux: We would ride from one Relais & Châteaux hotel to another on a Harley, at each stop sampling from the legendary culinary skills of their resident chefs. We met at the Grand Hotel du Lac in Vevey. Grand Hotel du Lac in Vevey The Grand Hotel rises majestically on the shore of Lake Geneva, an easy walk from the train station along the lakeside promenade. The ground floor spaces are a striking study in contrasts: Bright, open concourses giving on contrasting, relatively subdued enclaves like The Oriental Lounge or The Bar. Brigt lobby area with flowers Oriental salon Prize-winning hotel bar Hotel rooms in the Grand Hotel du Lac Of the 50 elegantly furnished guest rooms, those facing the lake are appointed in pastel blue-grays and the city-facing rooms in pastel yellows. Guest room The rooms entice with their stylish, soothing interiors. These rooms are normal size, but you feel surrounded by caring comfort. Interesting design touches abound. Bathroom fixtures I was especially taken by the “Pillow Menu“: Feel free to select the pillow for the night that’s just right for you ;-) The cushions already figure in one of the many little stories that float around in the hotel: Maître de Maison Christopher Rudolph likes to recount the difficulties he had ordering especially large pillows until the suppliers started offering ones that were as wide as the bed. Well, they are definitely adequate now for watching TV comfortably from your bed or working on the laptop. Quite right, until this, I always had to arrange at least two pillows for myself… Add to this that thesubterranean river coursing past the hotel helps you to a heavenly good night’s sleep. I can heartily confirm it! The suite naturally is not only larger but also comes decorated in a more provocative red and black color scheme. No way will anyone ever describe this as a “plain vanilla” bed… King-size bed in the hotel suite Gastronomic highlight of the Grand Hotel du Lac Sales and Marketing Manager John Orlandi led the way to the wine cellar, where Sommelier Clément was waiting for us with appetizers and a small wine tasting. ales and Marketing Manager John Orlandi with Sommelier Clément After this foretaste, back up we went to Restaurant Les Saisons where they serve dishes prepared with the best regional ingredients by Chef Thomas Neeser. It was no fluke that Chef Thomas Neeser with 16 Gault Millau points was named a Rising Star of western Switzerland in 2013. Restaurant table setting Dish after dish is prepared to the highest standards here, both visually and gastronomically. Duo filet of whitefish and filet of rabbit, Taggiasca olives, asparagus Rack of lamb crusted lemon salt, eggplant caviar The rack of lamb was unquestionably the best I have ever had a chance to taste. It was truly out of this world! Pinot Blanc Domaine de la Treille Looking back, I’m not sure any more if the Pinot Blanc was served with the sea bass or what; regardless, it was outstanding! And, in the person of Cyril Sauvan there is also a pastry chef in the house who clearly is of the same caliber as the chef, I swear to it… Marinated rhubard delicacy with strawberry syrup, cookie And, so, the next morning, we took off on the eagerly-anticipated “Route du Bonheur” by Relais & Châteaux to Le Vieux Manoir in Murten. Heading out from the Grand Hotel du Lac Check rates and availability here. More images from this unforgettable sojourn: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633476627266″ type=”gallery”] A hearty thank you! Our very warm thanks to “Maître de Maison” Christopher Rudolph and Marketing and Sales Manager John Orlandi for the fantastic dinner and hospitality! Sabine Biedermann of Primus Communications is also due an equally big thank you for organizing and coodinating the tour! And last but not least I must thank Richard Guyon, Relais & Châteaux Director for Switzerland and Liechtenstein, for the gracious invitation! We enjoyed the spectacular Harley Davidson tour through these noble hotels to the fullest! ## Calm and Cuisine at the Hotel Le Vieux Manoir on Picturesque Lake Murten Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-le-vieux-manoir-lake-murten Built in elegant country house style, the Hotel Le Vieux Manoir by Relais & Châteaux is located in a large park in the Bernese Seeland directly on the shores of picturesque Lake Murten. If you are looking for genuine calm and gastronomic flights of fancy, take a closer look at this gem… Chairs on the hotel’s private boat dock As part of our Relais & Châteaux “Harley-Davidson Route du Bonheur” through Romandy, hotel host Daniel Ziegler and sales and marketing head Ulrike Ruf received us for a “lunch stop”. Ulrike Ruf, Daniel Ziegler and Walter Schärer on Harley-Davidsons What they caused to be served at our table on the garden terrace after the impressive hotel tour was out of this world… But first things first: The romantic Hotel Le Vieux Manoir on Lake Murten Hotel entrance The stately country house in a privileged location on the lake practically breathes liberality and elegance. To some degree, this impression owes a certain something to the elegant appearance of hotel host Daniel Ziegler ;-) Louis Roederer champagne Be that as it may, you feel instantly well taken care of. It already starts in the magnificent garden, where, for example, a designer beach shower lends the requisite note of extravagance. Shower enclosure and changing cabins The main building‘s rooms are furnished authentically and benefit from lots of glass and winter garden-like architecture. Almost like a conservatory Conservatory of Restaurant “Juma” Guest rooms in the Vieux Manoir Each of the 34 exceptional theme rooms is like a little work of art, each enlivened by individual colors and themes. Most of them have a private balcony. The rooms were designed by the renowned interior design team of Jasmin Grego and Stephanie Kühnle. “Green” room In addition to the rooms in the main house, a pavilion room called the Glass Diamond that sits out front by the lake on stilts is available. It is an exclusive glass cube with a spectacular view of Lake Murten; you reach this high perch via a steel staircase. Glass Diamond by the lake: Living perched on high… Hotel bed in the Glass Diamond New under the heading of the Relais & Châteaux villa concept, an adjacent lake house is available: up to six people can seclude themselves here, relying or not on the hotel infrastructure as they choose. Villa concept with lake house Garden Villa bedroom For where infrastructure is concerned, the villa lacks nothing: From the living room with fireplace, to several bedrooms, to the self-contained sauna, it has it all. A gourmet lunch in Le Vieux Manoir At Murten is where we took our lunch break at this, the first Relais & Châteaux property in Switzerland. We stopped there on our way from Vevey to Neuchâtel on our Relais & Châteaux “Route du Bonheur”. Le Vieux Manoir menu What a menu they served us on the garden terrace! It was first a feast for the eyes and then a treat for the palate! Pea soup with salmon tartare French duck liver meets Seeland asparagus Red Snapper with apple due, sweet potatoes, tapioca The attentive staff around restaurant manager Florian Stroubhard missed no opportunity for displaying their skills, whether on or off the plate. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633475749526″ type=”gallery”] After this culinary flight of fancy, we continued on our Route du Bonheur, with the Beau Rivage Hotel in Neuenburg our destination.. A cordial Thank you! Warm thanks to hotel host Daniel Ziegler, sales and marketing representative Ulrike Rug and their practiced team for that insanely good lunch! Sabine Biedermann of Primus Communications deserves an equally big thank you for organizing and coordinating the tour! And last but certainly not least, my thanks go to Richard Guyon, Relais & Châteaux director for Switzerland and Liechtenstein, for the generous invitation! We enjoyed the spectacular Harley Davidson tour through these noble hotels to the utmost! Road Captain Pierre Berclaz in front of Le Vieux Manoir Hotel Murten ## Living large in the Beau Rivage Hotel in Neuchâtel Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/beau-rivage-hotel-neuchatel-relais-chateaux The Relais & Châteaux Hotel Beau Rivage Neuchâtel stands in the heart of Swiss watch country. Located on the popular lake promenade Esplanade du Mont-Blanc, it features spacious rooms and a superb gourmet restaurant… We traveled to the Beau Rivage in Neuchâtel as part of a Harley-Davidson “Route du Bonheur” tour on heavy choppers. As we thundered through the curve into the hotel driveway, there already awaiting us was Maître de Maison Thomas Maechler and his team, a tray of beers to hand. Very thoughtful, given the warm weather ;-) After a “hot” ride, a beer on the spot. What a reception! After freshening up and changing out of the black leather outfit into that little black number we set off on a quick guided tour through the five star superior hotel. Harley-Davidson in the hotel lobby Guest rooms in the Hotel Beau Rivage Neuchâtel The Beau Rivage has over 65 spacious, stylish rooms and suites that invite guest to feel good and relax. The subtle, finely modulated color combinations make a material contribution here. Typical color scheme for the rooms From most of the rooms, guests can delight in a spectacular panorama over the shores of Lake Neuchâtel and the Bernese Highlands Alpine range in the distance. Swans flying over Lake Neuchâtel The six suites located in the building’s corners, with red accents and large floor lamps, are appointed a notch more boldly than the hotel rooms and, naturally, even more generously laid out with a living room and separate bedroom. Seating group and telescope in the suite Not bad at all ;-) No wonder that renowned watch manufacturers year in and year out reserve several suites at once for their guests…Generally, the watch industry, the plants being located in the vicinity, is one of the hotel’s most important sources of clients. Various conference rooms are available for their workshops, some with a very “stimulating” ambiance Wine cellar atmosphere for meetings But tourists can also expect to be superbly lodged in the hotel, because the location between Lake Promenade and Neuburg’s city center is truly phenomenal. Seating group with atmosphere Spa and Fitness Center Decor in the hotel spa In the basement, guests benefit from a small but practical fitness center and also an intimate and equally fine spa. Luminaire in the spa Restaurant O’terroirs in the Hotel Beau Rivage Neuchâtel Hotel restaurant with terrace and lake access As usual in hotels of the Relais & Châteaux marketing alliance, gastronomy is of central importance. The gourmet can expect treats for the eye and the palate here… Macaroons being prepared Chef Eric Mazeas and his kitchen brigade are in COMPLETE control of their spacious kitchen: From pâté de foie gras teaser, to the amuse bouche, appetizers, and main courses ending with dessert, it all tasted simply divine. Or however you say it in the ‘gourmetically correct’ way… Left: Chef Eric Mazeas and his team Here is a small menu excerpt: Appetizer on the terrace Breton lobster with apple cider and apple wine of the region Champagne with dessert Mouth-watering friandise [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633475419496″ type=”gallery”] The next morning, we tackled the last stage: In Wallis, we rode to the Hotel Les Sources des Alpes in Leukerbad. Warmest thanks! Our most sincere thanks to owner and hotel host Thomas Maechler and his attentive team for the excellent service (polishing of motorcycles included…) and the idyllic dinner! I also wish to thank Richard Guyon, Relais & Châteaux manager for Switzerland and Liechtenstein, for the generous invitation! We enjoyed the spectacular tour of these noble hotels to the fullest! Sabine Biedermann of Primus Communications organized and coordinated the tour, and for her work we extend our sincere thanks! ## Hotel Les Sources des Alpes – Hot Springs and Cuisine in the Wallis Alps Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-les-sources-des-alpes-leukerbad-relais-chateaux The Relais & Châteaux Hotel Les Sources des Alpes sits slightly elevated above the center of Leukerbad and has a sublime vista of the valley in store for its guests. It is the region’s only luxury hotel and its two pools with hot thermal spring water are worth the faster pulse … View of Leukerbad from the guest room Hotel Les Sources des Alpes in Leukerbad Thanks to the Harley-Davidson “Route du Bonheur” by Relais & Châteaux we had the chance to visit this charm of a hotel: Riding our heavy “machines,” we thundered behind road captain and maître de maison Pierre Berclaz up through the Wallis to Leukerbad. The Custom Harley in the middle belongs to Maître de Maison Pierre Berclaz You can’t go wrong if you treat yourself soon after your arrival to a dip in the 34 degrees hot spring water. The indoor and outdoor pools are open year-round. Spa couch in the wellness area Available in addition are a sauna, a Turkish bath, solarium and beauty salon. A very popular program operated jointly with Dr. Burgener is also offered. An early reservation is definitely recommended! Hotel rooms with “springy” carpeting The hotel has 30 spacious, bright and elegant rooms that offer all the comforts one could ever want, including WLAN. Essential for travel bloggers, of course… “Mirabelle” guest room in the Hotel Les Sources des Alpes The colors are used in understated fashion and have a calming effect. And to let you “fly” across the carpet in a feathery manner, it has been given special middle layer. Very pleasant! Curtain cord in the Suite The bathroom is large, bright and utilitarian; my fair lady’s beauty aid collection will find generous counter space here. Bathroom in the “Mirabelle” guest room Restaurant “La Malvoisie” Chef Laurent Omphalius is the guarantor for the high culinary reputation of the hotel’s “La Malvoisie” restaurant. Chef Laurent Omphalius at right with sous chef Rémy His tempting creations, inspired by colorful, light and healthy Mediterranean cuisine, are in keeping with the spirit of the wellness center and are a highlight of any stay in Leukerbad. Tartar Amuse Bouche Laurent’s motto, “Gourmet, yes; but within reason” really sinks in only after a five course meal: Though you may not exactly feel light as a feather after feasting on his culinary delights, they still let you fall into a deep, saluuubrious sleep… Roast breast of duck "coffre de canard" with Cornalin jus und glazed spring onions Even here high in the Alps, Laurent Omphalius spoils his guests with the delicious fish specialties that play a central role in his menus. St. Peters fish filet with white butter and asparagus fondant Oh, yes, they also know desserts here… Baba with strawberries and its ice cream …and that doesn’t happen by itself. So that the dessert doesn’t feel deserted… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633468277166″ type=”gallery”] Check out rates and availability. Warm thanks! A huge THANK YOU goes to our Harley-Davidson road captain and maître de maison Pierre Berclaz! He guided us knowledgeably down side roads Relais & Châteaux “Route du Bonheur” through Romandy, the Bernese Seeland und the Wallis from one hotel to the next. I also wish to thank Richard Guyon, Relais & Châteaux director for Switzerland and Liechtenstein, for the generous invitation! We enjoyed the spectacular tour to the fullest! Sabine Biedermann of Primus Communications organized the tour perfectly, so thank you! ## Interview with Marcel Wanders on the Next Big Thing in Hotel Interior Design Source: https://travelmemo.com/interview/marcel-wanders-interview-hotel-interior-design I met renowned Dutch interior designer Marcel Wanders during today’s laying of the foundation stone of Zurich’s posh Kameha Grand Hotel that will be opened in March 2015. I got the opportunity to pick Marcel’s brain and conduct an interview, here’s what he had to say… What sets Marcel Wanders Studio apart from others Marcel Wanders and his 50 staff team in Amsterdam work intensely on a hotel’s interior details and innovate and develop them during the project together with their clients. All ideas, initiatives and projects start and end on Marcel’s desk, he’s the studio’s mastermind. Yet, he and his team will always exactly want to understand what the hotel guest’s needs are. Or, as office director Robin Bevers puts it: “You can hire an interior designer to put chairs in your space, or you can hire Marcel Wanders Studio to make people come to your space.” Wherever Marcel and his team go, they will want to understand local traditions in order to “pass forward the fire” that has lived in traditional objects for generations. They want to make sure that guests eventually will want to come to their hotels due to the local details and identity. Andaz Amsterdam: Reception area with three bell shaped chandeliers The bell is an icon Marcel uses frequently in hotel design. It used to be a tool to call people in order to gather, say at church, for lunch, or call the ‘bell man’. At the Hyatt hotel Andaz Amsterdam (here’s our own review) for example you may find the typical Dutch wooden shoes but they come with a twist in that they have a yawning mouth painted into them… Clogs with a yawning mouth. Mind the crosses, will talk about them in a while In cases like Kameha Grand Bonn Marcel Wanders and his team were even co-authors of the brand proposition in order to guarantee a seamless customer experience. Architect Sebastian Knorr, Operator Carsten Rath and Marcel Wanders for Kameha Grand Zurich Marcel stresses the point that he wants to give hotel guests the feeling that they have actually arrived at a given city. You should feel, really, whether you came to Amsterdam’s Andaz, (freakin’) Miami’s Mondrian South Beach Hotel or Manhattan’s Hotel on Rivington. Interestingly enough the latter features several furniture items that are also being used in Amsterdam’s Andaz. Obviously Marcel Wanders’ understanding of the Genius Loci, the site’s feng shui, is not based on furniture alone… How they work at Marcel Wanders Studio in the Westerhuis, Amsterdam What’s the Next Big Thing in Hotel Interior Design? When I asked Marcel Wanders my last question, i.e. what the next big thing in hotel design would be, he thought a while and then came up with Andaz Hotel’s video installations. Instead of paintings and ‘conventional’ artwork they have 45 top level art video installations in different areas of the hotel and they award and buy around 3 to 6 more per year from artists like Ryan Gander, Erwin Olaf or Mark Titchner. Andaz Amsterdam: Video screen installation in the chandelier The largest display screen for the presentation of video footage is located in the lounge and is comprised of nine 60-inch televisions. But you may as well check out the videos on the dedicated art video channel in your guestroom’s TV. The rationale behind this is that nowadays guests that come to lifestyle hotels usually in their work day don’t have much time. But in a hotel of this type they do. They go to the spa facilities, the gym, and, they hang out in the lounge… Hence Marcel wants to entertain them with appealing interior design and according art and video installations. Corridor that could make for a video installation ;-) Marcel almost compares his hotels to top notch museums: “Name your preferred museum and imagine you could live, eat and sleep there in style.” What an experience, indeed! It gives me goose pimples when I think about it… “And what if you not only saw the pieces of art but you also actually knew that they are from fantastic masters in their field, that changes who you are, right?” I guess so, yes! Since you ‘see what you know’ I personally tend to go with guides to see touristic attractions. You just see so much more when an expert explains the details… Or, to cite the beforementioned clogs: Would you have guessed that the three crosses stand for Amsterdam’s virtues ‘Valiant, Steadfast, Compassionate’? You will come across that symbol several times throughout Andaz Amsterdam… Marcel wants to give hotel guests the feeling that they’re coming to an art connoisseur friend’s house and should feel free to participate in the host’s passion for art. At best, rich authentic warmth is the result of this personal museum experience. In such an environment the simple words ‘be my guest‘ contain a completely new meaning! Marcel didn’t necessarily want to dub this a coming trend, yet, but it’s something he invented and now observes in his daily studies. Well, we’re looking forward to go and experience Marcel’s next hotel opening soon… Thanks to Marcel for the interesting walk and also thanks to Robin Bevers for shedding light on the details of their working procedures. Kameha Grand Zurich press conference Here are our impressions from a quick visit to Andaz Amsterdam. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633275178422″ type=”gallery”] And also many thanks to Vanessa Bay and Susanne Schmitt of Primus Communications for having me at the press conference! ## W Santiago – Abundance of Renowned Chefs and Lounge Architects Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/w-hotel-santiago-golf-club-los-leones Located between Santiago’s noble Providencia and Las Condes districts and next to the Los Leones golf course, W Santiago is a spectacularly stylish venue against a panoramic backdrop of snow-capped Andes peaks and Sanhattan’s glitzy skyscrapers. Hotel W, Santiago de Chile W Santiago is conveniently located in a modern district not far from the Bellavista entertainment district and Sanhattan’s new towers. The Los Leones golf course is virtually around the corner. Considering Santiago’s size hosting 7 million inhabitants, anyway. You will recognize the hotel from a distance since it boasts the typical W iconic design. Arriving by helicopter is even easier, there is no other helipad wide and far, as Google Maps will prove. W Santiago’s helipad as visualized by Google Maps Venues and Amenities W Santiago features several lounge areas with different names and designs. They all use stark color contrasts and iconic furniture design and decoration. Tea library: Walter is mirroring on the left, Katja’s red on the right Lobby lounger Lounge decoration Lounge decoration You’re left with a truly tough choice where to hang out properly… And then you may as well take to the rooftop and enjoy the WET pool and yet two other lounges… They really give you a hard time here! Rooftop lounge and helipad Unless you arrived by helicopter, of course. Then you already know the rooftop area. Now THAT makes life easier ;-) So far so good, enough choice already! Obviously until here everybody should have enough options to choose from. But then again you are at W Santiago, therefore there is yet even one more, i.e. the dizzying Whiskey Blue lounge by the renowned Gerber Group. If that doesn’t resonate with you, maybe Rande Gerber does, Cindy Crawford’s husband? It doesn’t get more exclusive than that! Rande Gerber’s Whiskey Blue bar and lounge Hotel Restaurants Mind you, as if choosing from the several attractive lounges wasn’t hard enough, W Santiago also comes with a variety of restaurants… At Noso renowned restaurateur Jean-Paul Bondoux and chef Sergio Gonzalez combine classic French cuisine with a Mediterranean twist. As you can tell from the interior design, you better ask for advice regarding the wine… Noso restaurant and wine selection On a mild summer day you will probably want to venture into the open Chilean Terraza bistro. You can always try the excellent meat but in no case should you miss the fresh seafood! Board the aquatic adventure via erizos (sea urchins) and locos (Chilean abalone) to ceviches and oysters borde negro. Open Terraza restaurant And if you are even more adventurous there’s still chef Ciro Watanabe’s (what a name, you can hear the samurai swords!) Osaka. His multicultural cornucopia is filled with exotic flavors from Peru, Thailand, China and Japan. Your chopsticks will poke around delicacies like ceviche Osaka, Thai scallops, teriyaki balsamic sirloin and Nippon confit duck, among other. Ciro Watanabe’s Osaka fusion restaurant And yes, there are also hotel rooms, here… Rooms at Hotel W, Santiago The hotel was opened as recently as 2009 and sports 176 luxuriously designed and equipped rooms and 20 suites with each floor being themed differently with icebergs, sand dunes or snowy mountains. As per usual with W hotels, already their standard room type is called “Wonderful”. Now that’s a promising name! And guess what, it is wonderful, indeed! “Wonderful” room But there are many more room categories! We were happy enough to also see a “Marvelous Suite”. It is larger and features a huge terrace with views of Santiago’s Manhattan-style “Sanhattan” district. Marvelous Suite hotel bed Marvelous Suite salon And then that was already it in terms of rooms we got to see. When we visited Santiago mid of March the hotel was fully booked! Congratulations! You’ll have to check out their Wow and Extreme Wow Suites through their website. Those suites look like stylish apartments with spectacular views of Santiago… Many thanks to Leonardo Luengo, Entertainment & Leisure Manager, for showing us around! Here are some more impressions from our visit at the all stylish W Santiago. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633309504659″ type=”gallery”] ## Stylish W Design Hotel Istanbul – come on a tour with Ilker Topdemir! Source: https://travelmemo.com/turkey/stylish-w-hotel-istanbul-tour-ilker-topdemir The W Istanbul Hotel is located in the historic Akaretler Row Houses that used to house the emperor’s staff in the old days. The hotel now is at the heart of the vibrant Besiktas neighborhood filled with restaurants, cafes, and design & art galleries. Go-getting events and hospitality marketing manager Ilker Topdemir was so kind to show me around the stylish premises, come with us on tour! W sign next to hotel entrance Being nestled into the historic Akaretler Row Houses this W hotel doesn’t feature the usual W iconic building design. The row houses used to house the emperor’s countless staff members while his actual palace was conveniently located nearby at the shores of the Bosphorus. Today the hotel can be found in the authentic and local area of Besiktas and the upscale shopping district of Nisantasi. Former Akaretler Row Houses now housing W Hotel Istanbul What you will find inside, though, is a completely different world that lives up to the usual W design and styling, this time around with an oriental edge… A stylish blend of modern and Turkish design runs harmoniously throughout the hotel, from decorative elements to the light settings. Lobby decoration next to hotel entrance The lobby and library come in stark color contrasts challenging the unused western eye. But yes, you do feel immediately at home despite the intense colors and opulent decoration items. Hotel library next to the lobby W Hotel Rooms – the “Usual” Wonderful, Spectacular, Fabulous and Wow Effects W Hotel rooms come in the promising room sizes “Wonderful”, “Spectacular”, “Fabulous”, “Marvelous”, “Mega”, “Studio Suite”, “Fantastic Suite”, “Wow” and — “Extreme Wow“… They tastefully combine both history and contemporary luxury such as marmara marble, Ottoman patterns, and lighting to experiment along with your mood. Loft-style Studio Suite Rooms and suites may come with gardens, terraces or cabanas depending on their location. The usual W Hotel highlight is the obvious Wow Suite. (Yeah, sometimes they have an Extreme Wow, too ;-) Designed by renowned Turkish designer, Mahmut Anlar, the WOW Suite comes in seven-meter high ceilings and tall windows with a separate mezzanine-level bedroom, customized living room, dining room, half kitchen, 1 1/2 bathrooms and modern luxuries with all the bells and whistles. Wow Suite living room and high ceiling The exclusive bedroom overlooks the stunning living room and features skylights above the spa bath, an enourmous massage shower and a four poster W signature bed. Ilker Topdemir showing the bedroom Restaurants at W Hotel As per usual with this type of hotels you can choose from different restaurants. Okka is master chef Tolga Atalay’s “local” offering including abundant mezes and twenty-five savory options of lamb, beef, and chicken Kebap. Emre Capa is in charge of the casually contemporary Minyon bar and restaurant. His internationally inspired delights come with a Turkish twist. After some tasty starters I went for a traditional lamb shack. Lamb shank at Minyon restaurant Mind you, while choosing your dish you will need to know what food swims and which walks. Can’t remember the vegetarian’s designation, now. “Things that stand around” will probably not work ;-) Menu “Things that walk” Many thanks to Ilker Topdemir for showing me around! BTW, besides from being a travel editor for Elle Turkey, Ilker is always interested in the latest trends regarding fancy hotel features. Please let him know in case you come across innovative hospitality services! And thanks to Songül Altun Kalayci, director of marketing & pr, for joining in and discussing the latest on smartphone piles ;-) Songül Altun Kalayci and Ilker Topdemir at Minyon restaurant [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633304762296″ type=”gallery”] ## Iconic, Opulent and Worth a Visit — Andaz Amsterdam Source: https://travelmemo.com/netherlands/andaz-hotel-amsterdam-hyatt Andaz Amsterdam is a design hotel venue on the elegant Prinsengracht canal in Amsterdam’s Jordaan district. Nestled in the former Public Library the hotel boasts 122 rooms, but you wouldn’t tell from outside since it nicely fits in the surrounding historic canal architecture. Inside, though, we are talking a completely different world. Step in and enjoy opulent design at its best! Step in from canal world to opulent design living It’s quite an experience, indeed, to step in from Amsterdam’s scenic historic canal environment into a completely different world of sumptuous design and chic furnishings. Colors and shapes offer stark contrasts but they somehow always manage to convey a surprisingly calm and classy spirit. Iconic armchairs next to the reception As you would expect from a hotel this level Andaz’ hosts are all friendly and helpful. The reception desk was replaced by round tables underneath huge chandeliers. But the checkin process can take place anywhere, really, in the lounge or at the bar since the staff is elegantly equipped with the latest tablet gadgets. Cosy lounge area with view of Prinsengracht canal Renowned local Amsterdam architect Marcel Wanders was in charge of bringing to life a rich Dutch heritage and modern materials for today’s discerning guests. Mind you, the New York Times dubbed him the ‘Lady Gaga of the design world: a constant font of ideas and energy who is nearly impossible to ignore’. Well, I fully agree! ‘Best Design’ Hotel Award 2014 Jetsetter.com, the world’s leading luxury travel site, announced on June 11, 2014 the winners of its 2014 ‘Best of the Best’ Hotel Awards. The Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht won in the category ‘Best Design Hotel’. This award is the latest addition to a powerful list of industry-recognized awards attributed to the Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht since its opening in November 2012. Congratulations!!! Well deserved! Bluespoon Restaurant Open cuisine and Bluespoon restaurant The restaurant area features an open cuisine and iconic furnishing. Once you order a soup or so you will easily understand what the ‘Bluespoon‘ name and icon is all about. Bluespoon restaurant – fish and seafood soup for starters Swiss chef Julien Piguet makes sure his staff comes up with varied delicacies. I followed his recommendation and tried the fish soup for starters and the veal blanquette for mains. Veal blanquette menu Needless to say that the white wine was a perfect match! If I could only remember its name! Swiss Executive Sous Chef Julien Piguet Unfortunately this time around I didn’t stay at the hotel, hence there are no hotel room photos. But telling from Andaz’ homepage they must be equally impressive… Here are some other impressions from a quick visit. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633275178422″ type=”gallery”] If you’re not carrying heavy luggage you can actually walk to the hotel from Amsterdam’s train station and enjoy the picturesque canals. We got lucky recently in Zurich when we got the opportunity to conduct an interview with Andaz’ interior designer Marcel Wanders and his director Robin Bevers. Check out here what Marcel had to say regarding the Next Big Thing in hotel interior design… ## Home exchange – enjoy FREE luxury vacation accommodation (and all the comforts of home!) Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/home-exchange-free-luxury-vacation-accommodation-comforts-home Imagine completely cutting out expensive hotel costs while also enjoying the space and convenience of a stylish away from home while on your vacation. You can do exactly that by arranging a home swap. Home exchanging is not a new concept (it started in the 1950s) but over recent years has become increasingly popular as more people discover the benefits. By Mark Sealey. Mark Sealey of Home Base Holidays (www.homebase-hols.com), a leading London based home exchange agency, says: “Home exchanging appeals to many people – people who enjoy staying in stylish accommodation but still appreciate the cost savings, location independent professionals that use home swapping to travel to new exciting destinations but still have a base to conduct their work, families with children who may choose to swap with other families whose home will be geared for their needs, retirees who now have the freedom to enjoy longer vacations and independent travellers of all ages who like exploring local, less touristy areas.” Quotes from home swappers “We have made lifelong friends all over the world. We all seem to be like minded travellers who just enjoy the experience of visiting new countries, staying in lovely homes and meeting new people.” – Bev M. (Bev’s home in Newnham-On-Severn, Glos., England, is a 17th Century Merchants house with many original features including oak beams and open fires, and views over the River Severn and the Cotswold hills). View offer “The best thing about house swapping is it gives you the opportunity of experiences you would NEVER get in a hotel!” – Judith S. (Judith’s holiday home is an ex-farm worker’s cottage in the tiny, friendly hamlet of Magnac Laval, Limousin, France). View offer Key benefits of a home exchange Free stylish vacation accommodation! Live like a local – experience different cultures and places first hand Home comforts – your home away from home Make new connections – meet new friends around the world Your own home cared for – homes that are occupied are safer than homes left empty Ten tips for a successful home exchange Give yourself time – allow time to find the perfect home swap for you. Be flexible – if possible be flexible with your exchange dates and be open to interesting destinations. Provide detailed information – enter details about your home and surrounding area. People often like to swap with others in similar situations to themselves so it’s also good to provide brief details about you and your family. Be proactive – contact a number of members with ‘feeler’ messages regarding a potential exchange. Ask questions – make sure you and your potential exchange partner know exactly what has been agreed, e.g. agree who will pay utility bills, repairs, breakages, use of food, cleaning materials, bed linen and towels (Home Base Holidays provides a draft agreement form to adapt). Prepare a Welcome Pack – create a simple folder of information for your home swap partners. This can contain information on your home and appliances, useful telephone numbers, tourist leaflets, maps, guide books, train and bus timetables. Friends & neighbours – it’s useful to provide the phone number of a friend or neighbour who can be contacted in emergencies. It’s a good idea to also provide them with a spare key. Clean, clean, clean – make sure your home is clean and tidy before your guests’ arrival, with space for their belongings, freshly made beds plus extra bed linen and towels. Keep in touch – stay in contact with your exchange partners, from your initial agreement to completion of your exchange, as this builds mutual trust. Enjoy your exchange holiday! Do remember to leave the home exactly as you found it and leave a little gift and thank you note. Home Base Holidays was established in 1985 and has thousands of attractive home swap offers available worldwide: travelmemo.com readers are offered a 20% discount on membership to Home Base Holidays. Enter TRAVELMEMO in the promotional code box when joining (regular membership rates: one year £29 or two years £39). ## Travel Blog Statistics – How travelmemo.com Compares to the ‘Average’ Travel Blogger Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/travel-blog-statistics-travelmemo-com-compares-average-blogger FHR and Pork Pies, a social media agency, conducted a State of Travel Blogging survey among travel bloggers. I was surprised by two of the stats. While it seems obvious that most travel bloggers try to monetize their blogs I was surprised to learn that the majority runs more than one travel blog. We run two travel blogs ourselves for historical reasons (and some others) but I thought that would be an exception, not the rule. The majority of travel blogs are between 1-4 years old, the vast majority of blog authors is fluent in SEO and the preferred social media outlets by far are Twitter and Facebook with Google+ in a surprisingly high third position with 67%. I assume that the general penetration of Google+ among web users is lower, but probably those in the know – bloggers – are aware of the potential importance of Google+ for their authority and publisher rank. In Comparison We Seem to be Boring Average… Here are some of the main findings: Our own blog was created in November 2010 and now sports a Google Page Rank 3 which puts us in a good average in the travel blogging industry. Since 59% of authors run more than one travel blog we are with the majority again since we run a second travel blog in German. It’s actually where we started our blogging venture and since it was very successfully very quickly we thought it would be even more interesting to tab into the English speaking (global) market. Which, of course, proofed to be much more competitive. Today our blogs reach 3’000+ monthly visitors each, one predominantly from our Zurich, Switzerland, hometown alone (!), the other from a global audience. As the regular travel blogger we are also avid readers of SEO publications and we even write about it on a third blog called webmemo.ch. As with most other travel blogs our traffic mainly stems from non-brand search with direct traffic a distant second. Direct traffic, though, makes up almost half as much as non-brand search which seems a lot given the fact that hardly anyone will know our travelmemo.com brand. As most other travel blogs we also monetize our publication and sponsored posts are one of the main income sources. The challenge here is to keep a good balance of sponsored posts content that may or may not fit into the chosen content niche versus your own genuine content. We tend to be extremely strict on this and only accept content that deals with luxury travel. In terms of pricing we are with the average blogger again in that we charge a one-off payment of $200 per sponsored post. We will rise our fee, though, since we put too so much effort into our posts and blogs that we want to be compensated accordingly. The last two categories are the ones we are below average: We work exclusively with travel brands and we rarely manage to publish as many posts per month as the other bloggers. Hence we also publish less sponsored posts per month. Thanks to FHR and No Pork Pies for compiling this interesting infographic! And here’s an interview with Kristian Bannister, creative director No Pork Pies and mastermind of the blogger survey. Average Travel Blogger Summary ## The House Hotel Bosphorus – Classy yet Modern at the Same Time Source: https://travelmemo.com/turkey/the-house-boutique-hotel-bosphorus Recently I ventured to Istanbul for the first time in my life. Turkey used to be one of the few destinations that I was a bit reluctant to go because it seems fairly exotic to the Western eye and the language is all different from what we would speak anywhere else in Europe. Anyway, I somehow managed to talk myself into this adventure and all of a sudden I was there in the whirlwind taxi traffic from the airport to an outstanding oasis of classy style by the Bosphorus. Check out how that feels Istanbul style… The House Hotel Bosphorus The House Hotel Bosphorus is a deluxe hotel in Istanbul’s lively Ortaköy district with breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. The classy building consists of the landmark Simon Kalfa building and the historical mansion next to it built in the 19th century. Classy architecture by the Bosphorus What may look too ‘old fashioned classy’ to the untrained eye was internally renovated by the internationally acclaimed Istanbul design firm Autoban. They transformed the hotel into a luxury design boutique hotel of 26 rooms. With its restored original features The House Hotel Bosphorus nicely combines historical glamour with contemporary design. No wonder renowned Tatler Travel Guide named The House Bosphorus among their 101 Best Hotels in the World 2012. Stunning design in the Simon Kalfa suite Among the many amazing ‘special effects’ you will easily remark the wildly soft towels. What a start into a new day… Another ‘special’ is served at breakfast. The buffet is varied and nicely inspired by oriental ingredients. Varied breakfast with an oriental edge Instead of the usual omelette ask the waiter for a Menemen! Eggs and pepperonis will be mixed with the freshest tomatoes you have ever tasted. Unless you have access to your own Tuscan garden, of course. Very yummy! Breakfast with a view… ask for Menemen! The restaurant’s elegant French cutlery by Guy Degrenne will do the sleek finish to fine cuisine. The exceptional view of the Bosphorus also helps, doesn’t it? Ortaköy District by the Bosphorus Bridge Mind you, Ortaköy is a lively Istanbul area right on the Bosphorus with restaurants, cafes and a wide range of stores and clubs. At night it can be fairly noisy, hence bringing your earplugs is a good idea. Ortaköy entertainment district, mosque and Bosphorus Bridge Across the square from The House Hotel Bosphorus are the landmarks Ortaköy Mosque and the Bosphorus Bridge. The suspension bridge is impressive already but at night it becomes the inevitable eye catcher. And during the day the hotel offers one of the most iconic views of Istanbul. As you can tell from the photograph the hotel is not situated in the city center. First I thought I would have an issue with that. But not at all! Taxis take you everywhere pretty quickly and at low cost. But I’ll come to that later… I’m not sure whether as an accredited travel blogger I was enjoying a standard procedure or an especially pampering treat, but the bottle of Turkish wine The House offered at the hotel room was remarkable! The Anatolian “Ancyra” Merlot from 2011 tastes wonderful and compares nicely with more renowned wines from prominent wine regions. What to do in Istanbul Obviously The House’s concierges will be helpful in explaining Istanbul’s highlights based on your interest. And they will also hand you little notes with addresses on them to give to the taxi drivers, for their English is not too great. To put it mildly… Hamam If you care for the ‘real’ thing and want to check out a hamam, check-in at Aya Sofya Hamami. As it’s name suggests it is located just opposite the Hagia Sophia and next to the Blue Mosque. You can’t miss it. Hagia Sophia Hamam men’s entrance Contrary to European hamam interpretations – mostly dark and smallish – Aya Sofya Hamami is large and bright. And men and women enjoy separated stays. Book a personal therapist that will give you the cleaning treatment and rub off old skin. Afterwards he’ll also give you a massage right in the hamami. It’s an awesome experience! But, as a word of caution, only go there if you can stand the heat… Their sauna doesn’t show any sign of steam, you just sit on bright white marble and look around. Until you realize that the marble is fairly hot and when the therapist – Omur in my case – returned after 10 minutes I felt I had just endured the longest ten minutes of my whole life! And when he afterwards lulled me into warm foam I thought I would never want to see warm water again, ever! That made me feel pretty manly, of course, so I suffered through more of this danger-guy stuff… Gorgeous! Must-do when in Istanbul ;-) Go by Taksi I took to several taxi rides. Yes, it’s a bit of an adventure, and an unforgettable one for that matter… absolutely commendable. Traffic conditions allowing they take you to anywhere in NO time. Guess how… Foolhardy taxi driver Ferodun (right) will take me to the airport in NO time… The streetcar panned out for me too, but the taxi rides were way more impressive… If you’re familiar with German you may want to read my other review that is dedicated to Istanbul’s taxis. Spice Market The Spice Market is very authentic in that I could hardly spot any tourists here. Mingle with the locals and admire the bustling streets in this vibrant district. Spice Market hall Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque Hagia Sophia by night The Blue Mosque is next to the Hagia Sophia with the Hamam in-between Shopping Shopping is best in the Galatasaray district. Where, by the way, The House has yet another renowned property called Galatasaray. I haven’t visited this one just yet but everyone I talked to was aware of and a vivid admirer of The House hotel group. Apparently they have a very good reputation and are about to open properties on Istanbul’s Asian shore, too. A thousand thanks to Manuela Weber from Cinnamon Circle for making this stay possible! And another thousand thanks to elegant Frenchman Antony Doucet, The House Hotel’s director of sales, marketing and communication for showing me around and hinting me to Menemen and the hamam! The House Hotel’s elegant Frenchman Antony Doucet We posted some more impressions via our Flickr gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633215019005″ type=”gallery”] ## Guide to Cusco’s Top 5 Fine Dining Restaurants Source: https://travelmemo.com/peru/cusco-guide-top-5-fine-dining-restaurant In the last 10 years the demand for luxury travel to Peru has significantly grown. Nowadays it’s not just a vacation spot for hardy backpackers and hikers, but a destination that serves travellers seeking a higher level of service and comfort. With the majority of international visitors heading to the heartland of the Inca Empire – the City of Cusco, high up in the Andes has seen an influx of high-end and innovative eateries catering to the more discerning traveller. Although there are literally hundreds of restaurants to choose from, only a handful actually make the grade. If you are planning on staying in the city for a few nights here is a guide to the very best 5 fine dining restaurants in Cusco. By Paul Jones. Limo Restaurant Located in Cusco’s main square Plaza de Armas – above the rather un-Peruvian McDonalds restaurant – Limo is a popular draw for tourists and locals alike. Offering views across the plaza, the 70 seat restaurant is split into two distinct areas: the Balcony and the Comedor. Limo on Plaza de Armas With daily deliveries of fresh seafood brought in from Lima and Arequipa, Limo is one of the best places to enjoy a Peruvian ceviche and even a Japanese sushi. During high-season advanced bookings are recommended. Portal de Carnes 236, 2nd Floor, Plaza de Armas, Cusco Cicciolina’s Restaurant Although commonly mistaken for an Italian restaurant, Cicciolina’s offers a wide range of international and local dishes that incorporate their own unique twist. The restaurants décor is warm and attractive with a feel that is unpretentious and inviting. Cicciolinas on Calle Triunfo Diners can choose to sit either in the bar area (at tall tables) or relax in the elegant main restaurant. With an open kitchen and waiters busily working the floor, Cicciolina’s has an atmosphere that is rarely found in many restaurants in Cusco. Calle Triunfo 393 2nd Floor, Cusco The Inka Grill Restaurant The Inka Grill was one of the first up-market restaurants in Cusco, serving up innovative novoandina and international dishes for more than 15 years. For visitors not wanting to venture very far, the restaurant is easy to find and centrally located on the corner of Plaza de Armas and Calle Plateros. Inka Grill on Portal de Panes The menu heavily features dishes that utilize ingredients sourced locally, including organic salads and vegetables from the nearby Sacred Valley of the Inka’s. For a traditional take on a classic dish try their quinoa risotto. Portal de Panes 115, Plaza de Armas Greens Organics Restaurant Although the name might suggest that this is a vegetarian restaurant, it actually refers to the restaurants ethos to provide a menu that uses organically grown produce. Recently refurbished, the décor of the restaurant is fresh and colourful with an emphasis on using recycled products. Look out for the lamp shades at the bar ingeniously made from old Inca Cola bottles. Greens Organics on Santa Catalina Angosta There is plenty to choose from on the menu; but Greens is most famous for its inventive salads like their Spring Salad, made with roasted baby beets, grilled fennel, caramelized pumpkin and chestnuts. Santa Catalina Angosta 135, Piso 2, Plaza de Armas ChiCha Restaurant Created by Peru’s celebrity chef Gaston Acurio, ChiCha offers a gourmet take on traditional food from the region of Cusco. Set on the second floor of a Spanish colonial Casona, the restaurant is large and spacious with a distinctively classy feel. ChiCha’s barman on Plaza Regocijo Lomo saltado with tacu tacu, adobo and causa are popular dishes on the menu. But for a special treat, you might want to try the pacha manca, a selection of Peruvian potatoes, broad beans, meats and cheese’s served in an earthenware pot – similar to those used in the Andean highland communities. Plaza Regocijo 261, 2nd Floor, Cusco ## Algodon Mansion:Living like Roger Federer in Buenos Aires Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/algodon-mansion-luxury-hotel-buenos-aires The exquisite boutique hotel Algodon Mansion is located in the heart of Recoleta — the most elegant residential neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It is here that the city’s wealthiest citizens enjoy the most exclusive designer boutiques, high-end restaurants and art galleries. Furthermore, it’s the first (and only!) Relais & Châteaux hotel in Buenos Aires! It’s of little wonder that tennis star Roger Federer chose to stay here during his exhibition tennis matches against local hero Juan Martín del Potro. (Spanish report by La Nación) Join us as we explore Federer’s suite number 3! Check out availabilities here if you were wondering how it actually feels: Algodon Mansion in Buenos Aires Algodon Mansion‘s original French classical design has been impeccably restored. The new look offers an air of contemporary elegance and sophistication. Upon entering the hotel, the attentive staff is on hand to offer guests exceptional service. While checking-in, one cannot help but be drawn to the elaborate waterfall cascading in the lobby. Algodon Mansion has ten opulent suites featuring dark wooden floors, cream-colored walls and luxurious Italian marble bathrooms. The rooms are all spacious and offer superior amenities and comfort. Some suites even include separate living areas and cozy fireplaces. We were not sure if it was a reminder of Roger Federer’s recent stay or if it was a standard feature, but the TV played “tennis legends” programs the whole time we were in the suite. Must-have: ensuite wine selection The hotel’s rooftop swimming pool and spa are just what’s needed after a long day of Buenos Aires sightseeing or shopping. International Tennis Star Roger Federer at Algodon Mansion The hotel offers a 24-hour private concierge service and is renowned for its outstanding exclusive hospitality. During his stay, Swiss tennis star Roger Federer and his opponent, local hero Juan Martín del Potro, collected 4 million dollars for various charities. We are certain that he recieved the royal treatment at Algodon Mansions throughout his short stay in the city. Algodon Mansion’s Restaurant Algodon Mansion’s restaurant serves regional dishes by using fresh farm products from the hotel’s sister property in Mendoza. The wines that accompany the delicious food come from the award-winning Algodon Wine Estate in San Rafael, Mendoza. For lunch, we sampled a selection of traditional “empanadas” (stuffed patties), followed by braised pork shoulder … delicious! Braised pork shoulder on noisettes carrots purée Many thanks to Rodrigo Braun from Relais & Chateaux’ stellar Patagonia property Eolo and Gregor Beck, the general manager of Algodon Mansion for showing us around! Swiss hotel manager Gregor Beck Check out Algodon’s prices and availability here: Here are some more yummy impressions from our lunch at Algodon Mansion: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633179144704″ type=”gallery”] And here Roger is leaving Algodon Mansion: Read also our review of the neighboring Mio Buenos Aires design hotel, also found in Recoleta. It boasts a modern design and rooms with one of a kind bathtubs. ## Chic Boutique Hotel Mio Buenos Aires Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/mio-buenos-aires-boutique-hotel The Mio Buenos Aires hotel is located in the heart of upscale Recoleta district and it’s only a few meters away from exclusive designer stores, shopping centers, art galleries and just blocks from Eva Perón’s tomb in the famous Recoleta Cemetery. The hotel combines luxury, elegance and design. The perfect base to explore the tango capital! Recoleta’s Mio Buenos Aires Boutique Hotel Already Mio Buenos Aires’ entrance is quite impressive; a 20 foot / 6 meter-high front-door made of French oak from wine barrels. The lobby is very stylish and elegant. Glass, cotton, oak, steel, marble and silk were used throughout the common spaces, offering a warm feeling of home despite the seemingly cold materials. Not bad at all… The hotel design blends luxury and comfort with its classy accommodation and features a library, a small business corner, an indoor pool jacuzzi, a steam bath and a gym on the 8th floor. Attractive objects by Argentinian artists are spread throughout the hotel. Outside the restaurant area metal butterflies fly around. Restaurant “Sivela 465” The restaurant, Sivela 465, serves contemporary cuisine, using seasonal recipes. We tried roasted pumpkin raviolis in a mushroom, fresh basil and toasted almond sauce. As you may know Buenos Aires boasts among the best pasta dishes in the world. They are half Italian after all… And you can tell by their Tiramisú desserts, too… The breakfast buffet is varied and if you are fond of delicious cupcakes you won’t be disappointed! Hotel Rooms at Mio Buenos Aires The doors of the 30 rooms and suites are made of wine barrels of pure French oak, too. And once you actually enter the hotel room you’ll find yourself in a huge living space with an open bathroom including a wooden, sculptural bathtub! The bathtubs were created by Mario Dasso, an Argentinean artist specializing in engraving nature. All the rooms are finished to a very high standard using the finest wood, marble and fabrics and featuring a Nespresso machine, iPod docking station, and personal amenities by my favourite label L’Occitane. Check out prices and availability here! Many thanks to Amalia Gonzales for making this stay possible! Here are some more impressions from our stay at this stylish boutique hotel: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633166235676″ type=”gallery”] ## Cavas Wine Lodge in Mendoza, Argentina Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/cavas-wine-lodge-relais-chateaux-luxury-hotel Cavas Wine Lodge is a Relais & Châteaux property located in the heart of Argentina’s premiere wine country: Mendoza. Inspired by typical Spanish colonial architecture, the rural estate features a vineyard and a mezmerizing view of the Andes mountains. Indeed, for wine lovers and travelers seeking a romantic hideaway, Cavas Wine Lodge provides a delightfully unique experience. Cavas Wine Lodge in Mendoza, Argentina This Relais & Châteaux luxury hotel is located in Costaflores, Alto Agrelo; approximately one hour’s drive from Mendoza’s airport. Even with a good navigation system, roads in rural Argentina seldom have signs and Google Maps is not always reliable. Travelers must plan ahead by carefully setting up their GPS before starting out. With some good planning, eventually you will find a well maintained gravel road (no 4×4 required) that leads drivers through the vineyards and straight to the hotel’s gate. The estate was truly impressive. From its regal entrance gate to its Spanish colonial style — the scenery was absolutely breathtaking! As we entered the main building our amazement continued; there was a spacious and tastefully decorated lounge — complete with sculptures and modern paintings. The restaurant featured a well-protected patio and adjoining a pool adorned with spouting fountains. The adjacent Moorish-Roman spa — with its own outdoor patio and facilities — was equally well-designed. Spa menu highlights include relaxing baths and massages for a day of total relaxation. Outside spa whirlpool Next to the restaurant, a theatrical staircase doubles as a platform for tango dance shows that take place in the wine cellar level below. The wine cellar itself boasts a stylish tasting room for guests to sample the latest vintages. Wine cellar tasting room Cavas Wine Lodge’s Suites The lodge has 14 spacious suites — discreetly placed throughout the vineyard — complete with comfortable living rooms, generously-sized bedrooms and private terraces featuring pools with dramatic views of the Andes Mountains. Other amenties include walk-in closets and a rooftop terrace with a fireplace. Host Martín Rigal explains the room’s features. Restaurant at Cavas Wine Lodge Guests can decide between dining in the elegant dining room or on the terrace with its spectacular views. The restaurant offers regional cuisine and of course, a selection of the best Argentine wines. Chef Martin Gerardo Gandulfo Dolz and his team prepare inventive dishes. The traditional Argentine sirloin steak is available, but the kitchen delights in offering unconventional options for those with creative palettes. Chef Martin Gerardo Gandulfo Dolz and his team For the entrée, we opted for the salad with smoked salmon and ricotta cheese paired with the house white wine: 19 Esclones Sauvignon Blanc / Cavas Experience. As main course, we selected the braised goat raviolis covered with bean sauce, peas and an asparagus garnish. The excellent Bonarda Reserva 2008 was the accompanying red wine. An excellent choice! For starters: green leaves and vegetable salad, smoked salmon, ricotta cheese For the postres (dessert) we tried profiterols with chocolate ice cream and vanilla custard. The rosé extra brut with Cruzat Larrain it was served with added the perfect touch. Yummy! Many thanks to our charming hosts; the hotel managers Cecilia Díaz Chuit and Martín Rigal for their generous hospitality! And our eternal gratitude to Núria Galia from Relais & Châteaux and Sabine Biedermann from Primus Communications for putting us in contact with Cavas Wine Lodge. Martín Rigal and wife Cecilia Diaz Chuit Check the hotel’s latest prices and availability here. How to Get There The easiest way to reach Cavas Wine Lodge is to rent a car at Mendoza’s airport. The traffic in the area is reasonably calm by South American standards; i.e. there are usually three cars on two lanes but they drive comparably slow. Upon departure, take care to give yourself enough time to find your way back to the airport, as, again, there are not many indicating signs available, not even for the airport. See larger map As an added bonus, a rental car will give you the freedom to explore some of the nearby wineries or take a detour to the Tupungato Winelands golf course and polo grounds. Here are some more of our impressions of this luxurious hideaway: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633148672402″ type=”gallery”] ## Heaven on Earth at Stylish Entre Cielos Hotel & Hammam in Mendoza Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/entre-cielos-design-hotel-hammam-mendoza Entre Cielos is a new boutique hotel, opened in 2012 near Mendoza, Argentina. Set among vineyards with a view of the near Andes, this hideaway is the perfect place to enjoy stylish living, gourmet food and the according wine. Marked by its unique architecture, this design hotel is decorated with a contemporary mix of wooden floors, concrete walls and designer furniture. And … it boasts one of the first hammams in Latin America! Come with us and bath in style! Entre Cielos Boutique Hotel in Mendoza, Argentina Entre Cielos was conceived and created by a group of Swiss entrepreneurs who fell in love with Mendoza, and was perfectly designed by A4 estudio. No wonder it has won the “Best New Boutique Hotel 2012” award and now is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Update: In December 2013 Entre Cielos also received the Best Boutique Hotel of South America and Sensuous Spa Award. Well deserved! Congratulations! And as per July 2017 Entre Cielos yet again is a World Luxury Spa Awards Winner! They won the Best South American Boutique Luxury Spa category. You guys rock! Here are some of its arguments: Pool and loungers at night Stylish two-stories suites facing the pool Entre Cielos features two restaurants, a wine cellar, an outdoor pool and … a hammam & spa! When traveling to South America you probably would not necessarily expect any Turkish baths. But the Swiss entrepreneurs were courageous enough to open the first traditional hammam & spa in Latin America. And apparently Argentinians love it and so did we! Inspirational hammam designboom.com has other spectacular photographs and floor plans. Rooms and Suites at Entre Cielos Boutique Hotel All 16 suites, which are named for different types of wine such as “Reserva” or “Grand Cru”, are individually and impeccably designed, featuring textured stone walls and wood furnishings. Furthermore some rooms offer a breathtaking view of the Andean scenery. Ask for a room facing the pool! We thought they offered more interesting views than those facing the neighbouring vineyards. Probably the most spectacular suite is the “Limited Edition”. As with the wines, it is a unique creation. This futuristicly shaped wine loft stands on stilts above the vineyard, offering a protective cocoon. It boasts a terrace wirlpool and a window in the roof which allows to star gaze at night! Entre Cielos’ Restaurants The boutique hotel features two restaurants; “Katharina”, the fine-dining restaurant with international and local fresh dishes, overlooking the pool and the vineyards. The “Beef Club & Wine House” is located in a wine cellar further down the vineyard. It has a terrace next to the grill for hot summer nights and cozy niches inside for fresh spring and autumn nights. Beef club restaurant As its name suggests the Beef Club & Wine House serves fine steaks and great wines – two products that are as much a proud part of Argentinean culture as tango and gauchos. Veal sirloin steak accompanied with veggies cooked in an iron pan The Swiss style finish is not only shown through the impeccable service, but you can also tell from the breakfast buffet which includes a traditional Swiss “Birchermüsli” and “Butterzopf” (a braided bread wildly popular in Switzerland). Here’s Entre Cielo’s promotional video: Many thanks to Swiss co-founder Cecile Adams and general manager Fernando Martin for making our stay possible! Here’s our article on Entre Cieles as published in Swiss Airlines’ board magazine. Thanks for having us! Our article on Entre Cielos as published in Swiss International Air Lines’ board magazine ## Stylish Outpost: Secluded Alto Atacama Desert Lodge Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/alto-atacama-desert-lodge-hotel-san-pedro-de-atacama Alto Atacama Desert Lodge is situated in Northern Chile, hidden at the edge of San Pedro de Atacama’s oasis. The cubic architecture contrasts spectacularly with rugged red mountains in the background. The rural yet stylish decor and a welcoming staff have you immediately feel at home in one of the driest deserts on this planet… Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa in San Pedro de Atacama Alto Atacama offers a comfortable pickup service from nearby Calama’s airport. After you check into your room you will want to meet excursion manager Macarena back at the lounge. Excursions to the numerous peculiarities of the Atacama Desert are an integral part of a visit in Alto Atacama and Macarena will help you choose from the many options available. But more about that later… So after you’ve organized your next excursion you probably have some time left before you venture out into the wilderness. This is the time to check out the hotel’s pool(s)! Loungers by the pool and garden restaurant Instead of one large pool Alto Atacama boasts several smaller and secluded pools, all with just a few loungers and some with lots of privacy. Garden and pool restaurant Also the garden restaurant is situated in the pool area. Once a week you’ll enjoy a Chilean style Asado, a feast from the grill… Parilla by the pool restaurant Rooms at Alto Atacama Alto Atacama hotel offers three different room types with already the smallest category being very spacious… The stylish decor is inspired by the rich heritage of local craftsmanship and comes with a modern twist. Stylish bathroom The bathroom features some small details that can make all the difference between a profane functional room and (almost) a little private spa. All rooms enjoy of a private terrace, some even have a private outdoor shower. Restaurant, Lounge and Bar The restaurant once again is decorated in the same warm and sandy tones that prevail throughout the resort. A bed & breakfast plan is available, but probably it’s more convenient to go for the full board since the village of San Pedro de Atacama is some minutes away. The food may not compete in the top notch gourmet category but it’s varied and tasty. Main restaurant area with wine cellar The lounge and bar look very cozy. We didn’t hang out there a lot, though, since we were very busy touring the countryside. Lounge and bar area Compare prices and availability here or try our search box below: Alto Atacama’s own promotional video: Excursions at Atacama Alto Atacama is a perfect hideaway to hang by the pool or even check into the spa. But, you could do that anywhere, really, there’s no need for that to jet to one of the driest places on earth. Instead, pick your excursions according to your interests and venture into the vast emptiness of the Atacama desert. Because the geographical surprises will pop up every few minutes! We were blown away by how short some drives into the desert were and how diverse nature crafted its shapes and materials. We most enjoyed the excursions to the Tatio Geysers Tatio geysers at sunrise Swimming in the salty Cejar Lagoon Swimming in salty Laguna Cejar Hiking the Cardones Gorge Foxtails and Candelabro cactus in Cardones gorge Moon Valley Moon valley: Visit a former salt mine near San Pedro de Atacama Death Valley Death Valley: Rugged mountains in Atacama Desert and Licancabur volcano Salar de Atacama Reflecting volcanoes in Salar de Atacama Pukara de Quitor Lookout View from Pucara de Quitor outlook If you are short on time skip the Arcoiris mountains and petroglyphs excursion. It’s short, nice and easy, but the other excursions are way more spectacular. Here are some more impressions from our stay at this stylish hideaway: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633087991043″ type=”gallery”] Many thanks to Kristina Schreck from AzurePR for making the visit possible in the first place y un millón de gracias to hotel managers Alvaro and Matias and their nimble staff for making this stay unforgettable! Well, some other guests like the colorful Lord Daley and Mr. Clive made their marks, too… Thank you guys, what a laughter! Clive Thomas and Dale Daley after an excursion to Tatio geysers ## Awasi Hotel: A Luxurious Hideaway in the Chilean Atacama Desert Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/awasi-luxury-hotel-san-pedro-atacama-desert Awasi is an exclusive resort in the charming town of San Pedro de Atacama — surrounded by Chile’s vast Atacama Desert. It is a Relais & Chateaux property, boasting all of the careful detailing that comes with such a prestigious ownership. The decor is that of traditional stone, adobe and wood, carefully combined to celebrate the natural resources the region has to offer. It’s close proximity to the main village — just a few short minutes on foot — combined with pampering services that promote total relaxation, makes it an ideal oasis for comfort and convenience. Awasi Relais & Chateaux in San Pedro de Atacama The Awasi hotel is ideal for discerning travelers who love to be pampered in a private setting. Additionally, the rustic furnishings, romantic lighting and “cozy” touches compliment the environment and further enhance your experience. The resort divides into two main areas. On one side, you’ll find the public pool area with comfy lounge chairs, plush sofas, an “open-air” dining space and a selection of rooms. Hotel pool and restaurant by night On the other is the reception area and remaining rooms — 8 in total. Actually, “rooms” would be an understatement. In reality, they are spacious cottages featuring luxurious amenities. Some even include a private patio and for the ultimate indulgence: an outdoor shower! Dining at Awasi The restaurant at Awasi seems to be the heart and soul of the hotel; you’re tempted to eat all the time. Chef Juan Pablo Mardones lovingly prepares a varied selection of traditional Chilean dishes — using fresh local ingredients and boasting an aesthetically-pleasing presentation. During our stay, the food and service was impeccable. The professional staff was so unobtrusively attentive that we felt spoiled from the moment we arrived. Awasi’s patio and fireplace with restaurant in the background Excursions by Awasi Personalized services — from simple to creative– are the key focus at Awasi. Guests are assigned a private guide and a modern 4WD “doble cabina” utility vehicle to help you discover the remote but stunning landscape. Our guide, Jorge, grew up in the San Pedro de Atacama vicinity and delights in showing tourists places that they have never seen. Awasi guide Jorge and travelmemo’s Walter near a salt mine The Atacama desert offers unforgettable experiences; everything from vibrant volcanoes, Moon Valley hiking to flamingo watching at the Salar de Atacama are available. Other options include visiting the Geysers at El Tatio and mountain biking tours. We opted for the Moon Valley, with its crystalline salt formations, and the Chilean “Death Valley” (Valle della muerte). Fortunately, Jorge knew the area inside out. That evening, we joined Jorge for a “stargazing night“. What an overwhelming experience! Not only was the viewing of billions of stars spectacular, but also our guide’s wealth of knowledge on the subject was impressive! It certainly enhanced our perception and understanding of the subject. Stargazing at Southern Cross in Atacama desert The following day, we leisurely “floated” at the tranquil local lagoon, (Laguna Cejar). Even here, Awasi made sure we were well taken care of. Jorge brought along towels, bathrobes and even a fresh water pump for showering following our dip in the very salty water. All was truly appreciated! Salty Salar de Atacama Pricing at Awasi A stay at Awasi sets you back a cool 1500 USD per night, all inclusive. A bit steep for some, but when you consider all of the VIP amenities including personal guide, transfers, tailor made excursions, gourmet meals and privacy — suddenly it all becomes quite reasonable. Check out current prices and availabilities or try the calendar below. Many thanks to Sabine Biedermann and Susanne Schmitt of Primus Communications, Núria Galia of Relais & Châteaux and Milagros Scavarda and Elaine Román of Awasi for making our stay possible! Y un million de gracias to our guide Jorge and chef Juan Pablo. And last but not least, thanks to the attentive service of Eduardo and his team! You guys certainly know how to spoil your guests! Here are some more impressions from our “stellar” stay at Awasi: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633074269108″ type=”gallery”] ## Yurt Style Camping at Patagonia Camp near Torres del Paine Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/patagonia-camp-torres-del-paine-chile We were never really fond of camping. But Patagonia Camp is obviously not what you would call a traditional campground – it’s a luxury camp offering every comfort you might think of. Located at the shores of Lake Toro, Patagonia Camp is just a 15-minutes drive from one of the world’s most spectacular national parks – Torres del Paine. Have a look! Patagonia Camp, Torres del Paine, Chile Patagonia Camp features a cozy lounge, a restaurant with terrace and 18 wood-framed yurts (Mongolian-inspired wood-framed tents) and is situated along wooden walkways, amidst of a forest. The yurts and the main building are connected by open wooden walkways. The remote setting by Lake Toro is really exceptional and the atmosphere is incredibly natural and romantic. Each yurt has its own private bathroom, a private terrace and is decorated with nice fabrics and handcrafted furniture. From our yurt we had a perfect view of the Cuernos del Paine, one of the most photographed rock formations in the Torres del Paine National Park and the yurt even offers a view of the stars through a central window in the roof. Cuernos del Paine reflecting in Lake Toro The setting and concept of Patagonia Camp is really unique! However, in terms of service there is some room for improvement in order to make the stay unforgettable. For more information, check out Patagonia Camp’s homepage. Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Chile With an impressive mountain range, Torres del Paine National Park’s glaciers and fjords are one of the jewels and a “must see” when traveling to Patagonia. The park offers truly stunning scenery. In the center of the park you’ll find the impressive peaks – the Cuernos (horns) and the Torres (towers). The three granite monoliths which you’ll find on every second postcard of Patagonia are totally impressive and breathtaking… Cuernos del Paine in Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia Camp offers one or two excursions per day. We opted for the drive to Lake Grey, a glacially fed lake in the park, and a short hike to a spectacular mirador. Lake Grey iceberg lookout in Torres del Paine National Park Nice guy guide Rodrigo and driver Ivan impressed us by preparing a full fledged picnic lunch at an idyllic spot near Lake Grey :-) Picnic by Lake Grey in Torres del Paine National Park Here are some more photos of our stay at the Patagonia Camp and the Torres del Paine National Park: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633027930895″ type=”gallery”] ## Stellar Architecture at Refugia Boutique Hotel on Chiloé Island Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/design-boutique-hotel-refugia-chiloe-island Design hotel Refugia opened its doors to the public in September 2012 in Southern Chile, in a very unique and mystical spot on this planet – on Chiloé Island, South America’s second largest island situated just South of Puerto Montt. The hotel is surrounded by more than 10 hectares of land where countryside, beach, green fields, forests and an inlet of the Pacific Ocean meet. A perfect oasis of tranquility and nature… Check out this architectural gem amidst Chiloé’s rounded hills! Refugia Hotel on Chiloé Island Born as a vague idea in a kitchen in Santiago, the architecturally stunning Refugia hotel was eventually built three years later by Mobil Arquitectos based on native wood, glass and concrete and a fair share of sheep wool weavings and basketry, all of which were crafted by local artisans. Already the reception is decorated with local colorful fabrics. From there, hospitality manager Maria José will show you into the main hotel area. A cozy living room style lounge with a bar, fireplace, several couches and huge windows offers breathtaking views of the surrounding scenery. Also the restaurant is part of the generous ground floor setup. Breakfast and dinner are served here, lunch is usually served during one of the numerous excursions. Chiloés weather may change quickly in “all directions”. Or, as the guides put it, if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes… But in case the weather indeed was inacceptable you can still enjoy the spa facilities in the first floor or you might as well just enjoy storm watching by the fireplace… Refugia’s living room and fireplace by night Hotel rooms Refugia offers 12 rooms, all with a wonderful view of the inland sea which surrounds Chiloé’s Rilan peninsula and neighboring islands. The rooms feature stylish wood furnishing, fabrics and obviously a bottom to ceiling panorama window. The bathroom is elegant, spacious and includes a jacuzzi bathtub! Since the hotel concept suggests disconnecting from the world and enjoying the countryside, the rooms don’t have TVs. But they do have broadband internet access which, being travel bloggers, we used intensely in order to compile this review. Actually at some point we also used guide Cyril’s “In the pocket WiFi” while on a cruise :-) Excursions on Chiloé Island Manager and co-initiator Andrés (the guy with the inspirational kitchen) positions the hotel in the same luxury niche as comparable top notch Patagonian outlets such as Tierra Patagonia or Explora Patagonia. While Chiloé may not have natural highlights such as the Torres del Paine or Perito Moreno glacier, it offers a rich cultural heritage that even UNESCO recognized as Chiloé’s “Wooden Churches at the End of the World”. There are 86 (!) wooden churches on Chiloé Island of which 16 were declared UNESCO heritage. Besides of the picturesque cities such as the regional capital Castro with its amous palafito houses and grocery and artisan markets, a lovely countryside lends itself perfectly for several recreational options. We opted for a full day excursion with guide Cyril in order to find out more about the history and the construction of the famous wooden churches, former Jesuit and later Franciscan outposts. Even if you are not an architect or historian you will enjoy this trip and learn a lot about Chiloé’s culture. The hotel’s own yacht “Williche” served as island hopping vessel and gourmet lunch base for the day. What a service! But Refugia also offers a variety of half-day and other full-day excursions. The trips range from cultural excursions, boating, horseback riding, kayaking, biking to hiking or simply looking around. Restaurant at Hotel Refugia Chef Ariel and his king crabs Staying in a remote luxury hotel like Refugia you probably also expect fine food, and you will not be disappointed! Chef Pancho and sous chef Ariel’s creations not only appeal to the eyes, they are also right out delicious! Our highlight was the king crab on a fine bean purée. Yummy!!! King crabs on a bean purée Many thanks to the Refugia Team! Hotel manager Andrés and travelmemo’s Katja Many thanks, un millon de gracias! to our guides Raimundo and Cyril, driver and motor man Juan Carlos, Williche captain Luis, chefs Pancho, Ariel and their team! And congratulations to Refugia’s initiator and mastermind Andrés and the all attentive guest relation manager Maria José for offering such an inspiring site! Your staff made sure that we not only enjoyed the generous facilities but the whole atmosphere at Refugia! At the day of our departure we felt like family ;-) And also many thanks to Miranda Stolfo from AzurePR for making this stay possible in the first place. Thanks for coordinating our booking! Here are some more impressions from our unforgettable stay at Refugia Hotel: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632969196698″ type=”gallery”] Refugia is now Tierra Chiloé Update (August 2014): The formerly known Refugia Hotel has become a member of the Tierra Hotels Family in August 2014 and is now called Tierra Chiloé. Pricing Mind you, a stay at Refugia comes at a whopping $530 per night – per person… We first thought it must be an error or we miscalculated the exchange rate. But no, that’s the rate throughout the year… It’s only after you read the fine print that the price get’s explainable. Refugia staff will pick you up and take you back to nearby Castro airport. It’s LAN Chile’s latest new expansion of their destination network out of Santiago. You enjoy gourmet full board even while out on excursions and delicious Chilean house wine is complimentary. You get to choose from different excursion options based on weather conditions and interests. They may include Refugia’s fully staffed 23 meter or so yacht Williche and knowledgeable and experienced tour guides fluent in Spanish and English. And in case of bad weather a generous spa is available. In hindsight we felt that we received very good value for money and we warmly recommend this remote and romantic hideaway. ## Enjoy Stylish Design at El Casco Art Hotel near San Carlos de Bariloche Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/el-casco-art-design-hotel-san-carlos-bariloche El Casco Art Hotel, a member of Preferred Boutique, is spectacularly located on the shores of picturesque Lake Nahuel Huapi, near Patagonia’s San Carlos de Bariloche. Together with a great collection of paintings and sculptures by Argentine artists, El Casco offers a particular and unique experience. Make sure you also check out their excellent cuisine! El Casco Art and Design Hotel Statue Racimos by Luis Falcini Already El Casco‘s entrance area and hotel lobby are tastefully decorated with various sculptures and paintings. But once you enter the main lounge you feel a kind of open-mindedness since the room is flooded by light due to huge top to bottom windows offering a marvellous view on Lake Nahuel Huapi. The hotel’s thirty three rooms are very spacious and all of them are decorated individually with works by different artists. All rooms offer breathtaking views of the lake. Not only the lobby and romms but also the garden sports several great sculptures by the lake. The one we liked very much is “Los Acrobatas” by Pablo Uratella Manes. It accompanies you from your room as well as while you’re having dinner or breakfast. The hotel features an indoor/outdoor pool, a gym and a spa. We saw some brave guests swimming in the lake and then warm up again in the hotel pool. We didn’t try that stunt since we were well aware that the water gets its intense colors from nearby glacier’s melting water… Heated pool and gym facing Lake Nahuel Huapi Dining at El Casco Art Hotel The gourmet restaurant offers stunning views of Lake Nahual Huapi and the statues in the hotel’s garden. Chef Ana Lucía Arias offers locally inspired ingredients with a twist, e.g. a braised shoulder of lamb, reggianito gnocchi and truffle oil. Braised shoulder of lamb, Reggianito gnocchi and truffle oil We also enjoyed the potato and sausage cake that came with the tasty veal rib eye. Many thanks to Caroline Michaud of Preferred Hotel Group for supporting this stay! Check out El Casco’s prices and availability here! Here are some more photos from our memorable stay at El Casco Art Hotel: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632944431128″ type=”gallery”] ## Outstanding Gourmet Dining at Las Balsas Hotel & Spa Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/las-balsas-gourmet-hotel-spa-relais-chateaux Las Balsas Gourmet Hotel & Spa — a member of Relais & Châteaux — is located south of Patagonia’s Villa La Angostura; which overlooks the picturesque Lake Nahuel Huapi. This exclusive hotel features a private garden, a beach with an adjoining pier and a state-of-the-art spa facility. Chef Lucas Dabrowski further enhances the experience with hands-down the best food we tasted in Patagonia. It is absolutely the perfect place to spend a romantic respite. Las Balsas Hotel & Spa, Villa La Angostura, Argentina Las Balsas hotel is a little tricky to find at first — you must maneuver through Villa La Angostura’s dense woods and gravel roads. Once arrived, however, you are rewarded with a picture-perfect entrance highlighting the main lounge with its fireplace and cozy furnishings. There is also a small patio that is perfect for meals or drinks outside, provided it is nice and warm weather. Then there’s the phenomenal views of Lake Nahuel Huapi…simply amazing. Lobby with fireplace The hotel offers three suites and twelve rooms. The small standard rooms feature exposed wood and high ceilings. The view is great, though! Next to the main building, there’s a chic stone, wood and glass building that features a spa, jacuzzi, sauna, gym, lounge and swimming pool. The staff at Las Balsas is very curteous and helpful. Concierge Ignacio Centroni is at your service to accommodate for all your wishes. He is a member of Les Clefs d’Or — the prestigious international association of hotel concierges. In fact, he happens to be one of only two Clef d’Or members in all of Patagonia! Clef d’Or concierge Ignacio Centroni Gourmet Restaurant Las Balsas by Chef Lucas Dabrowski At Las Balsas, cuisine and wine are an integral part of the experience! Chef Lucas Dabrowski delighted us with an exquisite lunch. Las Balsas Chef Lucas Dabrowski Our waitress recommended the starter as something very special… and she was right! The warm corn soup was accompanied by grilled prawns and an unexpected red bell pepper (cold!) Magnificent contrast! One of our mains was a marinated chicken breast with potato and cheese fondue, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives and a toasted almonds vinaigrette. Yummy! The other was a traditional Patagonian dish; fresh trout with ginger vinaigrette accompanied by cucumbers, Kombu seaweed salad, barley risotto and a carrot and ginger purée. Afterwards, we could not resist the equally tasty desserts. We decided on the pear compote with saffron, caramel-coated hazelnut, yogurt and crispy honey caramel. Sommelier Paolo always recommends a carefully planned wine pairing with each course. Unfortunately, due to driving restrictions we had to skip that experience this time around. Check out the hotel’s latest prices and availability here. Many thanks to Juan Pablo and Ignacio (Las Balsas) and Núria (Relais & Châteaux) for making this wonderful stay possible! Here are some more photos from our stay at Las Balsas: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632914212390″ type=”gallery”] ## Eolo: Relais & Châteaux Heaven in Patagonia, Argentina Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/eolo-hotel-relais-chateaux-patagonia-argentina Eolo is a luxurious ranch-style lodge nestled in a remote valley — on route to the Perito Moreno glacier, near El Calafate. It is a stunning establishment where unspoiled nature can be explored or a relaxing holiday can be spent. Savor the delectable cuisine whilst enjoying the breathtaking landscape views. EOLO: Relais & Châteaux in Patagonia, Argentina Eolo hotel is an invigorating haven for tranquility. From the moment you arrive, your every need is tended to by the amicable and accommodating staff. In fact, we were pleasantly surprised when they arranged our departure check-in and even printed our boarding passes! Exceptional service to say the least. Eolo hotel lounge at sunrise The lodge features 17 suites with stunning views of the Lago Argentino; Argentina’s largest lake. La Anita Valley is also visible and on a clear day Torres del Paine can be seen in the distance! Eolo’s restaurant terracce It’s the perfect holiday hideaway for nature lovers. The suites are all spacious with marvelous stone-tiled bathroom and toiletries from L’Occitane en Provence. The decor is minimalist but comfortable and classy. Hotel room with a view Hardly noticeable actually, considering the spectacular views right outside your window. View from our room early in the morning Restaurant at the EOLO Relais & Chateaux Needless to say, when staying at a Relais & Châteaux, the cuisine is of the utmost importance. Restaurant with a view Dinner selections include a choice of two entrees and three main courses. We were quite satisfied with the choices we made. But never forget to leave room for dessert! Patagonian Black Hake and Confit Potato – very tasty! Activities and Excursions at Eolo Eolo offers several outdoor activities including horse back riding, hiking, mountain biking and bird watching. We opted for horseback riding (“cabalgata”) with our local guide, Gonzalo. Despite little experience riding horses, we managed to enjoy the ride thanks to Gonzalo’s clear instructions… and the very patient horses; Electra and Freddy! Walter andFreddy, Katja and ElectraThanks to Gonzalo for taking us on a ride! And for taking these pictures ;-) Another “must-do” when staying at Eolo or in neighboring Calafate, is an excursion to the Perito Moreno glacier. We went on a mini-trekking adventure there. Read our photo essay about this awesome experience. Breathtaking Perito Moreno Glacier For this day-long excursion the hotel even prepared a delicious lunch bag including a sandwich salad, fruits and dessert — from a detailed menu we selected from the night before. Thanks a lot to Eolo’s Rodrigo Braun and Núria Galià (Relais & Châteaux) for sponsoring this trip! Congratulations and warm appreciation to manager Valentin Virasoro and his attentive staff for offering this awe-inspiring experience! Check the latest prices and availability Here are some more photos of our stay at this outstanding hideaway. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632893373610″ type=”gallery”] ## Patagonia Adventure: Mini-Trekking on Perito Moreno Glacier Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/perito-moreno-glacier-patagonia-argentina Perito Moreno is one of the wildest and most remote national parks in Argentina and is named after Francisco Moreno, a naturalist and geographer who explored unknown areas and became an expert (perito) adviser. Perito Moreno glacier drops into lake Argentino offering spectacularly roaring ice breaks. The rugged ice wall is visible from far away but discloses its full beauty only when accessed via tour boats and crampons… Accessing the Perito Moreno Nationalpark is easy. A 75 km drive out of Calafate in Argentina’s Santa Cruz district will do. But if you wouldn’t know better you would think the street is taking you to a desert excursion or similar. The landscape doesn’t look at all as if it was to reveal a huge glacier around the corner. But a few curves later, there it is…. A majestic and rugged wall of crackling ice. Skip the first mirador (lookout) if you drive by car. It will probably be very busy because tour buses can easily stop there. A few hundred meters further down the road there’s an even more spectacular mirador. And it’s much less busy. If possible, book the glacier climbing tour (Mini-Trekking). Bring a picnic, solid shoes and warm clothing and gloves. The crampons will be provided. The tour begins by embarking for a 20 minutes navigation across the Rico Arm, enjoying breathtaking views of Perito Moreno glacier’s front wall. From there it’s a 15 minutes walk to the ice field. A short instruction later about walking on crampons you will find yourself clambering on Patagonia’s second largest glacier… Attentive and knowledgeable tour guides will show you different routes through the ice, explain the existence of blue water holes, small lagoons, ice formations of the most incredible blues and more. And eventually they even come up with a whisky on the rocks! How cool is that?! Tour guides Luis and Charly from tour operator Hielo & Aventura will take you there and back safely. Thanks a lot, guys! We wrote about all our highlights in Patagonia in a separate article. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632878521738″ type=”gallery”] ## Remota Hotel in Puerto Natales, Patagonia – Inspiring Excursion Base Source: https://travelmemo.com/chile/remota-hotel-puerto-natales-hiking-biking-kayaking Remota hotel is located in remote Puerto Natales, an old fishing town in Patagonia’s South situated between Punta Arenas and the Torres del Paine National Park. It serves as premier base for hiking, biking and even kayaking excursions into Patagonia’s plains. Architectonically speaking Remota offers a unique experience as it perfectly blends into the light slopes of the landscape. Remota Hotel Puerto Natales, Patagonia Chile We were warmly welcomed by the friendly staff at Remota hotel and a smile played on our lips when we received our room key – a cute little sheep! :-) The main building features huge windows from the floor to the ceiling which makes everything appear very brightly and warm. Several basic materials such as wood, asphalt and slate have been used. Yellow cushions and huge fireplaces add to the coziness. The hotel’s 72 rooms are generous with wide views onto the beautiful landscape. The rugged design is rather simple and minimal, but with the mixed materials and the colorful bedcover it is still very stylish. Check out Remota Hotel Puerto Natales‘s prices and availability here. Remota also features a spa, called SPOT, with a heated infinity pool, a Finnish sauna including two outdoor jacuzzis in wooden tubs. Restaurant at Remota Hotel Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile Atmospheric Remota restaurant Remota’s dining room gives a stupendous view across grasslands to distant mountains. And the broad tables with white cloths create a very warm atmosphere. The food is inspired by local ingredients such as pumpkin and the mandatory meat. It all comes across as rural and authentic tastiness in a stylish setup in front of appeasing grasslands. Excursions by Remota Hotel Remota offers a broad range of excursions in the immediate surroundings, as well as hikes and kayaking in the Torres del Paine National Park. Apparently some of the trails outside the park are exclusive to Remota. We actually didn’t join any excursion since we only stayed one night on our way up North. But it was definitely worth spending that night at Remota! It makes for a perfect stop before you make it to Patagonia’s vast gravelroads in the national park. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632860812970″ type=”gallery”] For more information, check out Remota’s homepage. Many thanks to account manager Aleksandra Wozniak for supporting this experience! More promotional videos www.youtube.com/user/RemotaPatagonia ## Spend a Day on Rome’s Piazza Navona! Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/piazza-navona-spend-day-rome I know, Rome has much more on offer than just this lengthy piazza that used to see chariot races in the old days. But still, once you’ve seen a couple of Rome’s most important landmarks you may as well sit down, watch the world go by and enjoy Italian style urban scenery on just this very square. During winter months it’s not so busy and you can deep dive into the details of a Roman day on Piazza Navona. You may start off your day at a typical pasticceria like the one below. What the photograph doesn’t convey: The smell is phenomenal even out on the street and entices you to go in and try the different pastries and a coffee. When you first make it to Piazza Navona you will notice the peculiar atmosphere of this square with its unusual non-square dimensions that make you feel like in a huge pedestrian zone. And yet, if you don’t feel like walking, you could as well take one of the carriages that you will find on most monument sites such as the Spanish Stair, the Pantheon, the Colosseum, etc. Except for the Trevi fountain. It’s too busy even during the winter low season. In terms of architecture the square is dominated by Sant’Agnese in Agone and its majestic cupola. The adjacent rooms are illuminated at night thus offering a warm impression of their interior grandeur. On one side of Piazza Navona you get the usual actors performing as (almost) motionless statues. On the other end you’ll find hordes of painters and artists promoting their art work, emphatic singer Alessandro Chisari among others. And as we all admit, there are much more topics to talk about in Italy than anywhere else in the world with everyone seemingly talking to everybody. Restaurants Towards lunch time you’ll obviously get hungry from digesting so many impressions. Piazza Navona offers different lunch and dining options ranging from the coffee shop at the corner to the noble white table covers of Dolce Vita. The waiters will try to lure you into their place by offering funny comments and a compelling smile. Direttore Michele Caporale and his team from the Dolce Vita restaurant pose proudly shortly before noon. Michele Caporale and his team waiting for hungry tourists This time around I decided to opt for the down to earth look of the Ristorante Panzirone and I didn’t regret it. The saltimbocca tasted very good and the waiters were great! And mind you, it may only have been a nice sunny day in February yet I felt pretty hot out in the patio albeit wearing just a t-shirt. A black one, though… Hotel There’s also an excellent option to actually staying at Piazza Navona, i.e. the hotel Navona Luxury Suites. Its entrance is on the opposite side, on Corso Rinascimento and you will almost certainly miss it at your first attempt to find it since the hotel isn’t allowed any signs due to the historical nature of the building. You’ll find this sign only inside the building… It’s a small and simple hotel with tiny corridors but the rooms feature stylish design by renowned architetto Danilo Maglio. If you are lucky enough to book the suite you will not only enjoy a whirlpool and sauna in your room but also an excellent view on Piazza Navona from your private balcony. What a day! Grazie mille! [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632830238113″ type=”gallery”]\ Check out navonasquare.com if you care for further updates on Piazza Navona. And consider www.darkrome.com if you’re looking for semi-private guided tours. I became aware of their service only after I left, hence this is not a personal recommendation, but their tours look convincing… ## 25hours Hamburg Number One – affordable Design Hotel for the young set Source: https://travelmemo.com/germany/25hours-hamburg-number-affordable-design-hotel-young-set Hotelier of the Year 2003 Kai Hollman caused a stir when he opened 25hours as one of the first affordable Design Hotels in the Budget Deluxe niche catering to a young clientele. What started a decade ago as a party bar with a place to crash for the night has over the years turned into a successful design hotel, but one still with a wink of the eye. Case in point: where else would they hand you a “men’s handbag “at the front desk? Men, don’t get the wrong idea: This handbag is not your latest fashion accessory, but a six pack of Hamburg’s local cult beer, Astra Urtyp, in the “Arschkalt” (“Cold Butt”) winter edition. Brewed by Astra. Bottoms up! Design, Pop, Retro In Number One the 25hours hotel builders gave an unconventional design for the young and the young at heart its first try, combining modern elements with 60s and 70s retro-chic and always with that little wink. Rooms come in sizes M, L, XL and XL-Family and differ in their design elements, such as the wallpaper or furniture. Guesthouse room in 25hours Hamburg Number One in Bahrenpark For groups or small events lasting days there is a “Guesthouse.” Workshop participants are free to keep body and soul together in its small kitchen – the refrigerator is said to hold a ton of beer, but only the local Astra brew, of course ;-) – but there is always the hotel infrastructure naturally to fall back on. Kitchen in the adjoining Guesthouse Dining room and living room In the restaurant, they serve down-to-earth German-Mediterranean cuisine. The curry corn soup tastes great; the tagliatelle with oyster mushrooms and leaf spinach could be straight out of an Italian restaurant! Delickous Curry Corn Soup Next door, you can chill in the lounge, aka the living room. Here, too, you will find a tea bar for your enjoyment. Historically speaking, this is where 25hours Hotels started when they began offering partiers a place to rest their heads – and feet – after all night carousing in the Bahrenpark. Former in-district dance club During summer, guests relax on the hotel’s sun terrace or can indulge in the day spa at the Hotel Gastwerk nearby. Or, for a change, they can divert themselves in its bar and restaurant. There is no shortage of diversions in the vicinity, starting with the Hexenkessel. Hexenkessel just around the corner. These days, smokers are asked to go outside, but just for them there is small smokers lounge. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157632780837942″ type=”gallery”] Check out rates and availability in the following search box. All 25hours hotels are members of designhotels.com, a hand-picked collection of over 200 hotels worldwide. ## Pure Design: Iconic Icon Hotel in the Heart of Prague Source: https://travelmemo.com/czech-republic/pure-design-iconic-icon-hotel-heart-prague Conveniently situated in a calm side street lies a hidden hotel gem. It can only be recognised by the stylish tapas bar. When you look closer you will discover the hotel’s Icon logo in the first floor and a madonna above a historic wooden door. That’s the actual entrance. Many customers or passers-by obviously also make it via the bar’s more inviting entrance. But if you are heading in the hotel’s direction you’ll probably have the address at hand and easily find the door to a whole different inside world… Albeit embedded in the historic structure, the 31 stylish rooms and junior suites feature sophisticated and tasteful design as well as high-tech gadgets like a biometric secured safe or the more usual iPod docks and Wi-Fi access. Close the safe with your finger tip (just remember which one you used!) Thanks Renata for the walk through! Renata Žižkovská, Resident Manager The Icon Hotel’s Swedish hand-made Hästens beds come with a twist: They are soo cosy that it would be a pity to have to get up in the morning because the breakfast buffet is closing. Hence breakfast is served until 11 pm… So I might as well have ordered breakfast instead of the tasty tapas and beer when I checked out the lounge at night. What does that tell us about those Hästens beds? Their imperial purple from the silky bedspreads makes for a lively ambience that is reflected in the lounge. “Room” Tapas Bar and Lounge Besides the Room tapas bar facing the street, the intimate design hotel also offers a larger lounge further back that hosts changing art exhibitions. Art gallery at Icon Hotel lounge During the day it’s illuminated by an atrium, at night it turns into a colorful and relaxed hangout with DJ desk and according beats. DJ Gabriela in action For tapas I tried the black rice with mussels and a pulpo with green beans. Together with the latin sound it made me feel at Barcelona’s beach… Tapas: Black rice with mussels and pulpo on green beans Very tasty! And the Staropramen unfiltered beer that came with it is a world leader in its class… It easily made it to the number 2 spot in my personal beer ranking only second to Spain’s Almeria based “Alhambra” treat. Thanks to Juan and Juan, the waiter and cook team behind this excellent experience! Sorry guys for the lousy photograph… Good looking Juan y Juan make for the Argentinian relax feeling… ## Travel Itinerary for a one month trip to Chile / Argentina Source: https://travelmemo.com/argentina/travel-itinerary-month-trip-chile-argentina Early in 2013 we are touring Chile and Argentina on a Relais & Châteaux assignment. They are a collection of the most beautiful restaurants and hotels scattered around the world. Historically the hotel collection started out in 1954 as ‘route du bonheur’ (route of happiness), rallying outstanding restaurants and hotels along the picturesque route from Paris to lavish Côte d’Azur on the Mediterranean. Once we learned about that concept we thought there must also be a route du bonheur in Chile and Argentina. Here’s our take… Chile: Santiago de Chile, Atacama desert, Puerto Montt, Punta Arenas Argentina: San Carlos de Bariloche, El Calafate, Mendoza, Buenos Aires Check out our according destination and hotel reviews here: Chile Argentina Inspirational video by chile.travel ## How to Spend a Short Break in Brighton and Sussex, England Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/how-spend-short-break-brighton-sussex-zoo-england With something for everyone, Brighton and Sussex has something fun, relaxing or exhilarating to do at any time of the year. If you are only having a short break then you want to see the best bits whilst you are here. By Tom Clark. Find an Affordable Luxury Hotel with a Difference Snooze is luxury stay at an affordable price, which puts a real spin on your expectations of a weekend getaway in the UK. Regarded as the funkiest place to stay in the UK, Snooze is an award-winning boutique guest house located in the cozy heart of Kemptown, Brighton. If you like to be surrounded by one-of-a-kind cafes and restaurants, then staying in Kemptown will suit you. Each room is completely unique and based on different eras and themes. This is a great place to spend the weekend if you are tired of generic hotels and bedsits. Enjoy a quality breakfast in intricate surroundings, all just a stone-throw from the beach and city centre at Snooze. Royal Pavilion and Preston Park One of the things which makes Brighton such an interesting city to visit is the stunning scenery dotted around the area. You can be on one of the bustling city streets, take one turn and end up in surroundings you would never imagine existed, such as the Royal Pavilion gardens. The gardens make the perfect place to relax without being too far from all of the action, so you can be shopping again within minutes. The Royal Pavilion is one of the UK’s finest pieces of architecture, based on the Taj Mahal and made fit for a king; it is a marvellous sight, no matter how you look at it. Preston Park – Whilst you are in Brighton you have to take a stroll around this stunning park. Preston Park is surrounded by many family homes and high value properties where the locals will come to spend the day in the open space. It sits beside the striking ‘Rockery’, where you will find city-wildlife at its best. The park is just minutes away from exceptional Brighton bus service, which will take you into the city centre in no time. Trip to the zoo For a weekend getaway it is great as you can take a break from the city’s shopping hotspots and fast-pace high streets and blend in amongst the meerkats and monkeys instead. There are always new animals arriving at the zoo, from Colubus monkeys like these pictured here, to red pandas and fennec foxes. Drusillas Park is one of the leading small zoos in the UK www.drusillas.co.uk Follow Drusillas on Facebook or Twitter ## Sunday Brunch at the Hiltl – Vegetarian breakfast in the Heart of Zurich Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hiltl-vegetarian-restaurant-sunday-brunch Located in downtown Zurich, the Hiltl restaurant offers an eclectic Sunday brunch buffet. At first at least, it may take a bit of getting used to searching for the “normal” brunch staples like eggs sunny-side up or muesli among all the hot, Indian-inspired lentil, chickpea and sundry other dumplings. And you will definitely look in vain for the fried bacon. And we’ve also seen bigger cheese buffets. But once you have wrapped your mind around starting Sunday morning by consuming warm vegetarian creations, you’re ready to enjoy this brunch buffet to the fullest! Restaurant tables at the Hiltl On Sundays and holidays between 9:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. you can enjoy a rich vegetarian brunch in the Hiltl Restaurant located at Sihlstrasse 28. The attentive and friendly service (in web-savvy fashion!), the atmospheric decorations and the comfortable seating all contribute to making Sunday brunch an experience. The ladies start Sunday with a fine glass of Venetian Prosecco di Valdobbiadene from the magnum; the guys go for one of the many exotic fruit juice blends. After all, who among us downs their daily glass of freshly-squeezed apple-fennel-and-who-knows-what-else juice? Prosecco di Valdobbiabene and Latte Macchiato for Sunday starters All who wants to start with cheese, bread, or fried eggs, never mind the many exotic temptations, will find themselves well provided for at the end of the buffet table – or rather its beginning, depending on the point of view. Be sure occasionally to break eye contact from the profusion of well-lit dishes to look up, for there you will behold the usual grains, nuts and other healthy ingredients for your extra-special personal muesli. Vegetarian brunch buffet at the Hiltl By now you will have strolled up and down the buffet enough times so that on the next turn you will be ready to help yourself to the hot dishes. If you have been to the Hiltl before, you know what we are talking about: all the lentils and peas and dumplings and exotic delicacies in near-infinite variety are enchantingly prepared, and so, the luxury of choice now presents the bigger problem. But it’s one that you can obviously solve. Table setting at the Hiltl brunch The table setting also suggests a dessert course besides the appetizer and main course. Here we could not resist the ripe papayas, the tempting mousses and least of all the cakes (for the cakes, raise your eyes again to the buffet’s upper level.) Papaya, delicious mousses and cake The Hiltl vegetarian Sunday brunch costs 57 CHF for adults. Children six years old and under feast free of charge (or they may go draw in the kid’s corner specially set aside for them.) Children age 7 through 12 pay 2 CHF per year of age. Fifty-seven francs are not exactly a pittance, but in this case, measured by what they buy, this really is a bargain. And either the “crisis” has not yet reached Switzerland or this is a “normal” price for Zurich; in any case, the restaurant was fully booked. Reservations therefore are highly recommended! From the vegetarian menu Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Italy | Veneto | Az. Agr. Scandolera | Paolo Branca By the glass. Hot beverages Coffee | Espresso | Latte Macchiato | Assorted teas | Homemade cocoa Fresh squeezed Juice of the month | Indian juice | Tropical | Fitness | Carrot From the cold buffet Assorted croissants | Rye bread | Braids | Sweet pastries| Yogurt| Curd cheese | Cheese plate with dried fruit | Fresh fruit | Birchermuesli | Shrikhand | Oatmeal | Granola | Blossom honey | Confitures| Nut salad – large salad bar | Papadam From the hot buffet Cheese Quiche | Cook-it-yourself 3 minute egg | Scrambled egg variations | Pancakes | Fried eggs| Assorted Quiche | Aloo Bhaji | Eggplant Curry | Basmati rice | Jalfrezi | Samosa | Kachri | Assorted Sauces and Chutneys | Lemon rice | Jalapeños Table setting and decorative bench at the Hiltl brunch Hiltl is online with a web site, Twitter wall and Facebook Hiltl has quite an advanced online presence: Not only does it integrate the Twitter and Facebook timeline on its website, but in the restaurant as well scrolls the real-time Twitter stream #Hiltl. Obviously, they are confident that most comments will be positive. Now that’s what I call being sure of yourself! Hiltl Twitter and Facebook timeline And they also prominently display a link to the Tripadvisor review portal … ## Deogarh Mahal luxury heritage hotel in Rajasthan Source: https://travelmemo.com/india/deogarh-mahal-luxury-heritage-hotel When we talk about Rajasthan, the first thing that comes into mind is the rich and royal culture that flourishes there. The state has been the center of attraction for people all over the world due to the royal heritage. The state has been the homeland of a number of valiant rulers who were not only well known for their fantastic rule on the land but also as some of the greatest warriors in the history of the country. There are a number of palaces in Rajasthan that have been restored as heritage hotels. Deogarh Mahal is one such place that establishes the same fact. Come with us on this amazing tour! Catching a mere glimpse of the magnificent Deogarh Mahal luxury palace, one gets a good idea about the excellent tastes of the rulers who built it. The architecture is a fine specimen of excellent craftsmanship. Being one of the heritage hotels in Rajasthan, it holds great importance. As one enters the palace, it is easy to sense that the rulers were great patrons of justice. The gateway that leads into the front courtyard passes under the “Kacheri” where justice was served during those days. This is where the masses came to seek justice. The highly painted palace entrance leads up, passing through a number of small family shrines as well as through a series of narrow passages and staircases. The inside of the mahal is even grander. There is a huge courtyard in the center of the palace and there are several galleries that give a view of the courtyard while passing through them. In olden days, there used to be certain screened windows resembling the mesh windows of today that presented a clear view of this specific area. It is noted that this palace of Deogarh bears a certain resemblance to the famous Hawa Mahal in Jaipur. The resemblance is due to the fact that Pratap Singh, who was brought here as a child in order to save him from fatal plottings, built it as a remainder of his pleasant childhood memories. There are a number of rooms in Deogarh Mahal that display the grandeur. But also day to day operations such as breakfast, massages or the pool are worth the trip. For more details and information, please check out our booking page. In the evening local dances are shown in the courtyard. Deogarh is a small yet all picturesque town. During the hot summer month sun shades protect the streets from the heat. ## Hip new Design Hotel “25hours” in Zurich-West Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hip-design-hotel-25hours-zurich-west The new 25hours hotel has opened in Zurich’s West End. The team from Alfredo Häberli Design Development rendered Zurich’s newest Design Hotel in funky colors and with a young touch and lots of little reminders of Zurich. Red neon sculpture In the person of Alfredo Häberli, regarded as the George Clooney of the design scene, a well-known Argentine transplant to the city with his studio in Zurich’s Seefeld could take a lead role in designing the brand new 25hours hotel. Architektur & Wohnen magazine’s Designer of the Year in 2009, he saw his design concepts also implemented on a large scale in a hotel project that took three years to complete. CEO Christoph Hoffmann and GM Anita Vogler Although the hotel managers and the design all say “young,” the conference facilities come with resonant names like “Guild Hall.” But there is also a “Häberli Suite,” and in the restaurant, the menu takes its inspiration from other, more or less famous, Swiss citizens like Syra Marty (anyone remember Marilyn Monroe’s greatest rival?) But, to be fair, everyone surely knows Michelle Hunziker and Dieter Meier and his organic Argentine beef. Christoph Hoffmann, dynamic CEO of the 25hours hotel chain und hotel manager Anita Vogler with barely contained enthusiasm, show off the different types of rooms and more and then lead the way to the first floor with its “Kitchen Club,” an event venue where nice dinners can be served from its top-end Bulthaup kitchen. Right next to the Kitchen Club is the internet lounge with two Macs and a small refreshments bar with tea and water. Easy chairs in the Internet lounge with snacks By referencing Zurich, the 25hours Hotel, wants to invite guests on a journey of discovery: The mirrors in back of the bar are shaped like islands in Lake Zurich with boats bobbing among them. Hotel bar with red neon sculpture How this relates to the coins embedded in the bar floor is something everyone must figure out for themselves on the spot. Rooms in the Platinum and Silver category come in dazzling bright colors. Some of them have large window-size openings into the bathrooms. For the solo business traveler, it will help create a generous ambiance, but the lack of privacy could make it an issue with double occupancy. They are aware of this in the hotel and, if necessary, have little blinds available. Room with dazzling bright Colors The Gold type room glows with subdued colors Check out prices and availability of the 25hours Zurich West here. As suggested by the Mini toy cars on the desks, hotel guests can avail themselves of BMW Minis for excursions. Denizens of Zurich naturally know that they can just as well get around on public transport, especially since the Number 4 tram stops right next door at the “Toni Areal” tram station. Still, it’s a generous perk! Hotel guest get to use BMW Minis for excursions Like the nearby Renaissance Zürich Tower Hotel 25hours also tries to identify itself with the neighborhood: With the Sphere bookstore It has entered into a joint enterprise that takes the form of the library in the lobby. The lobby will also serve bands as a platform where they can play for a small audience and at the same liven up the entrance area. The sauna on the top floor offers an aerie-like view of Zurich’s West End and the tracks by the central train station. The Häberli Suite This suite, named after the designer Alfredo Häberli, presents itself in quite exclusive fashion. Not only is this the hotel’s only suite, but here, too, they’ve stepped up their game: So, for example, there is the bathtub standing free in the middle of the room… … Free standing bathtub in the Haeberli Suite Haeberli Suite with TV and Bed Restaurant and brunch/breakfast buffet Salt and pepper shakers in the evening in the hotel restaurant The restaurant menu may not be all that extensive, but it has a nice variety. To sate a light hunger, we tried the lentil vegetable stew and a lake trout. For dessert we could not resist the tarte tatin with Basel Leckerli biscuit parfait. It went down really well! Tarte tatin: Apple pie with Basel Leckerli biscuit parfait We think the rich breakfast buffet deserves special mention. Although not officially advertised as a brunch, it easily could be … it takes up the whole of the hotel bar the entire morning and presents itself in very pleasing fashion! It comes free with the room for guests; for 25 CHF others get quite a deal – perhaps the best bang-for-the buck brunch in Zurich West. And that’s every day, not just on Sundays… Don’t need it quite that sumptuous? For CHF 9.- you get a start on your day with a small Quick Breakfast. Daily brunch – the abundant breakfast buffet Sumptuous, brunch-like breakfast The Italian coffee brewer by La Marzocco does its thing, of course, so that the latte macchiato really packs a flavor wallop. Or maybe it’s the smiles from the young servers! In any event, the day starts well at the 25hours. To the homepage of the 25hours Hotel Zurich-West. More images: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631918438490″ type=”gallery”] Update 28.2.2014 Sheraton opening in Zurich West In the meantime we also reported on the opening of the neighboring Sheraton Hotel. They supposedly have the largest standard rooms in Zurich West… ## Peru: Now also a Luxury Travel Destination Source: https://travelmemo.com/peru/peru-luxury-travel-destination-amazon-rainforest Peru isn’t just for backpackers anymore. Luxury properties have sprung up across the country, most carefully mirroring their surroundings, from colonial mansions in Cuzco to thatched roof bungalows in the Amazon’s rainforest. By Laura Elise from SA Luxury Expeditions. Several years of improvement in infrastructure, security, and travel promotion have encouraged the growth of luxury options in this South American country. Here are some of the top locations to experience the best of Peru in comfort. Cuzco Cuzco is by far Peru’s most popular destination. Equipped with an airport for accessibility (flights are currently only domestic, but a new international airport is planned), plenty of cultural attractions and fine dining, Cuzco is also the launching point for most excursions to Machu Picchu, Peru’s famous mountaintop Inca citadel. Cuzco is filled with luxury properties tucked away behind stone Inca walls. Luxurious amenities include traditional spa therapies, heated floors (to keep away the Andean chill) and regally decorated rooms. Several of the 5-star hotels in Cuzco are built in former colonial mansions or convents, which prior to the Spanish conquest were important Inca sites. Cuzco was the capital of the Incan Empire until the 1500s, and several stone walls and structure remain scattered within and surrounding the city. Upon arrival beware of the height and the thin air! Move slowly and enjoy some mate tea until you acclimatize properly. Colca Canyon Although the Sacred Valley outside of Cuzco is the most common place to enjoy Peru’s rural settings, the Colca Canyon comes in a close second. Located several hours outside the colonial city of Arequipa, the Colca Canyon region includes some of the deepest canyons in the world, soaring volcanoes, and traditional villages farmed today as they were hundreds of years ago. The picturesque landscape includes farmlands dotted with llamas and alpacas and a mountain background that seems to go on forever. Properties in the area reflect the simple beauty of their surroundings, many exchanging televisions for panoramic windows and business centers for natural hot springs and spas. The Amazon Rainforest For a region that is overwhelmingly dominated by nature with dense vegetation and mysterious wildlife, the Peruvian Amazon has a surprising offering of luxury lodges. Of course, luxury in the jungle is relative, but the rainforest surrounding Puerto Maldonado contains several eco-lodges where guests stay in private bungalows complete with plush beds surrounded by mosquito netting (after all, you are in the Amazon!). Meals are usually delicious affairs with buffets or several courses of Amazonian cuisine. From the northern jungle town of Iquitos, cruises set sail down the Amazon, including several luxury boats. These boats carry a limited number of passengers and are known for exquisite attention to detail and design and superb onboard naturalist guides. Lima – Peru’s Capital If modern luxury is what you’re after, you’re best bet is to spend a few nights in Peru’s capital, Lima. This seaside capital is the largest city in Peru and by far its most modern. Many of the best hotels are located in the district of Miraflores, which lines the coast and contains numerous dining options. Lima is commonly considered the culinary capital of Latin America, and although hotels will feature their own restaurants, part of the flavor of visiting Lima is venturing out to explore the cuisine scene on your own. Some classics to try: ceviche washed down with a pisco sour. Author Bio: Laura Elise writes for SA Luxury Expeditions, a South America travel company specializing in luxury Peru tours. Originally from the Midwest, she’s been living in Latin America for four years and is currently based in Lima, Peru. ## 5* Finca Cortesin Hotel & Golf Club in Andalusia, Spain Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/hotel-finca-cortesin-golf-andalusia-spain The luxurious Finca Cortesin Hotel & Golf Club is located on the Mediterranean coast of Spain known as the Costa del Sol (The Sun Coast). It can, however, just as easily be referred to as the Costa del ‘Golf’ for its abundance of golfing options. The hotel’s palatial design is inspired by traditional Andalusian architecture — big, bright and spacious. Despite being accustomed to visiting impressive luxury hotels, we were still a bit intimidated by all the splendor this amazing resort was offering. We simply fell in love with their extravagant amenities — picture a bathroom larger than your average living room. Hotel Finca Cortesin Finca Cortesin seduces guests from the minute they drive through the gate. The courtyard of the 5 star hotel resort leads to the grand entrance where a valet offers the first of many wonderful services: complimentary parking. Gentlemen might well be advised to keep an eye on the missus as old world charm — such as a hand kissing salutation — is the norm at this exclusive hotel. The warm welcome from the staff — in addition to their excellent service — is almost overwhelming! Instead of the usual administrative formalities one is used to at arrival, we were immediately escorted to the picturesque terrace garden. There, a glass of white wine was offered, accompanied by ham and cheese snacks. May the pampering begin! To date, the only resort that has equaled such an exceptional reception has been Thailand’s Rayavadee Resort . The property itself is impeccable. The resort is encased in a serene environment including olive and acebuches (a local pine species) trees, flowers, spacious gardens and of course, several golf courses. The Finca Cortesin Hotel completes its top-notch offerings with a spa, two outdoor and one indoor pool, tennis and paddle courts, plus the aforementioned golf courses — some of the finest in the Costa del Sol! Hotel Rooms at Finca Cortesin Our suite offered everything necessary to ensure a relaxing stay; a kitchenette, a comfortable living room and bedroom plus the opulent bathroom that could easily have been larger than the size of our flat! The contemporary interior design featured a mixture of grey, ivory, and white color hues highlighting the fine furnishings. Every suite has a private garden or terrace, leaving you with the difficult choice of deciding which table is most suitable for unpacking your laptop or which to read travel magazines on. The room rates may not be the most inexpensive around, but they are definitely a good value for the money. Besides the aforementioned services and amenities, the hotel resort offers other courtesies such as a refillable, seasonal fresh fruit bowl, premium water, golf shoe cleaning services and chocolate treats. The Restaurants at Finca Cortesin There are four restaurants at this exclusive hotel. El Jardin serves fresh regional dishes. The golf clubhouse and the pool restaurant both serve all manner of delicious, high-end snacks and finally the Schilo restaurant (arguably the star of the show) specializes in Asian-Arabic fusion cuisine. We didn’t have the opportunity to sample Schilo, but can highly recommend the dinner we enjoyed at El Jardin. Once again we were impressed not only with the quality food but by the outstanding service from the waitstaff. No detail was spared — the friendly waiter even brought a little velvet stool for my cumbersome DSLR camera! We must also mention the breakfast (which is served a la carte at El Jardin); it was delicious, varied and tasty. The fine weather and fantastic views, (enjoyed from the terrace) only enhanced our dining experience. Breakfast in paradise. It just doesn’t get any better than that! Golf at Finca Cortesin Finca Cortesin Golf Club is ranked one of the best golf courses in Spain. And of all the numerous courses we’ve played on in that country, we would definitely rate it as one of the finest. Normally, when traveling, we rarely return to the same place twice. Not because we didn’t enjoy the experience, but because we fear we may be missing out on another great location. The Finca Cortesin golf course is an exception. We would be happy to play on it again given the opportunity. In fact, on this very trip we’ve had a chance to re-visit another of our favorite courses in Almeria. Desert Springs Golf, a Phoenix, Arizona inspired golf course offers an impressive desert-style layout. The green fee is €170, the rental clubs (latest TailorMade model) are €56, while the golf buggy adds another €47. Expensive, yes, but well worth the money due to the constant attention lavished upon you. Every aspect of your golf experience is meticulously catered to. Strolling on the fairways is like walking on cotton. All you need to do is swing the club and focus on your game. The layout of the 2006 Finca Cortesin golf course provides a challenging course. The architect Cabell Robinson truly created a spectacular place. The course is not only home to the European Tour, the Volvo World Matchplay Championship, but its great variety of natural vegetation (including olive and cork trees) allows even amateur golfers to enjoy a reasonable round of golf. The course leads through a dramatic valley offering a stunning view of the Estepona Mountains as well as the Mediterranean Sea, until ending up at the signature hole 13. It is easily the most beautiful green we have ever seen! And we have seen a few… We absolutely recommend renting a buggy. Not only because of the size of the course (at more than 7,000 meters, it is evidently one of the longest golf courses in Europe). But because of all the amenities that come along with it. Some popular features include: a GPS system with a distance indicator between holes, hazards and a red alert button to order extra food & beverages from the restaurant. Before you even leave the clubhouse area, your buggy is fully stocked with refreshments. During your game, a “fruit buggy” will be along to offer you fresh fruit to enjoy. How cool is that? These buggies may look standard to the untrained eye, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were powered by McLaren since they are the fastest we ever tried. In my opinion, it is the closest one can get to the “go-cart feeling” while on a golf course. So watch your speed on those tricky turns! I can’t stress enough how much a friendly and savvy staff makes all the difference! The knowledgeable caddy master ( a guy who annoyingly looked like a young Richard Gere) gave me sound advice regarding the driver model I should try to improve my lousy golf handicap. Of course, he didn’t put it that way, but it’s a fact. Anyway, his suggestion had my golf balls taking off the driving range like rockets! For more information, check out Finca Cortesin’s homepage. Here are some more photos from our unforgettable stay at this outstanding hideaway. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631766831796″ type=”gallery”] ## Boutique Hotel V in Vejer de la Frontera, Andalusia Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/hotel-vejer-de-la-frontera-spain Hotel V in Vejer de la Frontera is a beautifully crafted boutique hotel set within a historic 17th century manor house in the charming village of Vejer de la Frontera, the southernmost “Pueblo Blanco“, one of those picturesque white villages in Spain. Hotel V in Vejer de la Frontera Vejer de la Frontera is a very picturesque village on the top of a hill with a spectacular panoramic view. It is quite difficult, though, to find Hotel V since Vejer is a labyrinth of white washed houses and narrow cobbled streets. Don’t even try to get to the hotel by car! We learned the hard way and at one point we decided to leave the car at the entrance of the village and make our way to the hotel by foot. The streets are just too narrow for even the smallest Italian car model… let alone one that will carry all your luggage. And speaking of luggage, don’t bring your full household, the rooms are very small. But once you actually get to Hotel V you’ll be flabbergasted about its beauty. This stylish boutique hotel housed in a renovated 17th century building features a tranquil patio, terraces with an overwhelming view and a rooftop jacuzzi. With the exact same overwhelming view… This luxury hotel is a truly romantic hideaway! Rooms at Hotel V Each of the 12 guest rooms is very unique in its ambiance. They feature avant-garde antique Portuguese furniture in teak and rosewood and an exquisitely designed bathroom! We enjoyed room #11 – the only one with its own, private terrace with a view! Restaurants in Vejer de la Frontera On our trip we were not impressed with the Spanish cuisine (but ok, we’re probably spoiled from our last trip to Puglia, Italy). However, one of the most unexpected things in Vejer was the fact that it is a gastronomic paradise; there are so many nice and good restaurants and tapas bars that it gets quite a challenge to make a choice. The restaurant we absolutely recommend is “El Jardin del Califa“, a very stylish and romantic spot where you can enjoy all flavours of Moroccan and Lebanese cuisine, as well as make your choice of various mezze and tasty grilled meats. Make a reservation if you want to be sure to get a table, since this place is always very well visited. Playing golf near Vejer de la Frontera For travellers looking for adventure and activities, there are nearby beaches, wind surfing, horseback riding, wine tasting, shopping… and of course… also golf courses! We played once in Novo Sancti Petri (the A course “Mar y Piñas”) and once at the Benalup golf course. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631743849548″ type=”gallery”] ## Seville: Giralda, Golf & lavish Hacienda La Boticaria Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/seville-giralda-golf-eurostars-5-star-hacienda-boticaria After spending some days in vibrant Granada we were looking forward to relaxing a few days on the countryside. Hacienda La Boticaria is a splendid Andalusian-style farmhouse located only a 20 minutes drive from vivid Seville. Enjoy their lavish setup with numerous patios, a driving range and the nearby golf club Real Club de Golf de Sevilla! Hacienda La Boticaria near Seville With its immense estate of eighteen hectares, and surrounded by orange groves Eurostars Hacienda La Boticaria offers pure tranquility in an Andalusian flavored setup with numerous red or yellow patios infused with orange blossom. The Hacienda’s amenities include an outdoor as well as an indoor pool including a spa, horse drawn carriages and their museum, lakes and lush green gardens which make for a tranquil oasis. The hotel’s restaurant offers traditional Andalusian dishes and usually you’ll enjoy your dinner in a very cozy ambiance outdoor, right next to the “patio de los vientos” with its nice garden. The prices were a bit higher than the standard for the area, but the food and the choice reflect a good Andalusian average. Rooms at Hacienda La Boticaria The 130 rooms are very spacious and individually decorated in Andalusian stye. They offer every comfort you need, e.g. complimentary internet access via LAN or Wi-Fi. From our room we had a view of the peaceful Patio de la Paz, one of the many patios the Hacienda features. Playing a Round of Golf around Seville On the way to Seville you’ll find the nearby golf course “Real Club de golf de Sevilla“. It offers the usual infrastructure with 18 holes, a pro shop, putting and chipping greens, driving range and TaylorMade rental clubs. The fairly flat fairways are well maintained, yet not too wide. You better stick to the middle although the rough is nicely forgiving… The club house offers a generous terrace with view of the first tee, par-4 fairway and green. We just happened to admire someone play a masterful birdy (one under par). His second stroke had him sitting about one meter from the flag. After 346 meters (378 yards)… Well done! In the meantime we enjoyed tasty veal escalopes and tapas. Well done, too! What to do in Seville Seville is Andalusia’s capital and a city rich of history. It is known for the flamenco music that plays long into the night as well as for their dramatic bull fights. For sightseers, Seville offers magnificent monuments, such as La Giralda Tower, the 15th-century Cathedral (the largest gothic cathedral in the world), and the Moorish-style Alcázar palace. For all its important monuments and fascinating history, Seville is universally famous for its operas like Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro, but obviously also for the countless tapas bars and restaurants. We just happened to chose a restaurant on San Eloy street which was very busy and we thought was the “local thing” – but to which we would not necessarily return… we didn’t enjoy the dishes all that much. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631707148248″ type=”gallery”] If you ask Flamenco-Dancer Eveline Inauen for breakfast hints she’ll send you to the bars at the intersection of Calle Amor de Dios and Calle Condor Torremelón right next to the Alameda de Hércules or to bar Santa Marta on San Andrés square. For lunch she commends the Columnas back at Alameda de Hércules. It’s a self-service shop with lots of tasty tapa dishes. We tried Spanish places packed with locals. Mind you, the food can be very greasy and we didn’t enjoy it too much. For dinner Eveline will show you over to Enslava on Calle Santa Clara (book your table ahead of time!). If you prefer smaller venues head over to the Macarena district. Don’t miss the excellent coffee, e.g. a ‘Cortado’ (a cut one) for an espresso with hot creamy milk. Yummy! The general touristic areas are Santa Cruz and the district around the Giralda. The food will be more expensive here… EME catedral hotel just across the Giralda will serve food in a very stylish setup. If you care for a traditional Flamenco show (the real stuff without touristic garnish) take to Casa de la Memoria on Calle Ximenez Enrico 28. They offer three shows per night in a splendid venue. Book beforehand and be there early! Never mind if you happen to walk into one of the numerous Peña Flamenco shows. They offer the real flavor with less commercial ambitions, you’ll mingle with the locals here. Carboneria in Calle Tintes is always a good choice, too. And potentially also Opera Mastranza or the National Theatre Central. You’ll find plenty of shopping opportunities around Calle Sierpes direction Plaza Alfalfa, Plaza Nuevo, etc. Some are international brand stores that you may also find elsewhere. If you are into art go to the Museo de Bellas Artes or the Cartuja for modern art. Don’t miss the huge Cathedral and its Giralda. And don’t venture too far west beyond Munoz León if you don’t want to experience poorer districts. ## Vibrant Granada, stunning Alhambra & classy Hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/granada-alhambra-hotel-hospes-palacio-patos Granada is a vibrant city in Spain’s southern Andalusia region. The university and its young students, pedestrian zones and countless restaurants and tapas bars make for a splendid backdrop of the all famous Alhambra fortress: If you are not afraid of mixing up khalifs and sultans, mosques and churches, visit the spectacular attraction right next to the city center! City of Granada Granada is situated at 750 meters above sea level. It therefore has a rough continental climate with winters as cold as -15 °C (5 °F) and summers as hot as 40 °C (104 °F). So, probably the best season to visit Granada is in spring or autumn. We were deeply impressed by Granada’s beauty with all the picturesque narrow alleys in the Old Town and vibrant atmosphere around the pedestrian zone. Take a walk up the Albaicin hill off of Plaza Nueva and enjoy the view of the Alhambra and Granada – you won’t regret it! Take to Plaza Romanilla or the Pescaderia street close to the Cathedral for lunch or dinner. Or tapas, of course. If you care for even more restaurant choice go a few steps further East and try Navas street. We enjoyed the Nuevo Restaurante by the Urquiza brothers on Navas 25. The waiter was very attentive and the food excellent! Alhambra Fortress and Patios On our second day we visited the Alhambra – one of Spain’s major tourist attractions and absolute MUST SEE when you are in Granada. Actually it should be the reason for coming to Granada in the first place! Due to the great demand of tickets and to the restriction of thousands of visitors per day (!), we strongly recommend buying tickets online ahead of time. The Alhambra was so called because of its reddish walls (in Arabic, «qa’lat al-Hamra’» means Red Castle). It is located on top of the hill al-Sabika with a breathtaking view of the whole city and the mountains of the Sierra Nevada. The palace and fortress were constructed during the mid 10th century by the Berber ruler Badis ben Habus of the Kingdom of Granada in al-Andalus. Catholics organize themselves hierarchically, in churches important people sit in the front rows. Muslims instead are all equal, hence when they build houses their wealth is only visible inside. Gardens also represent wealth. They are built inside the houses, too. Therefore the Alhambra looks modest from the outside and only reveals its beauty once you make it to the numerous patios and halls. Hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos in Granada Hospes Palacio de los Patos is a design luxury hotel in Granada’s city center. The 5 stars luxury boutique hotel is located in a 19th century building which used to be a private residence until as recently as 1989. Hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos is situated at walking distance of the Cathedral and other sightseeing points. From the moment we arrived, the staff was very friendly and helpful and gave us some great recommendations for restaurants, tapas bars and what to see in the city. Also the hotel’s general manager Marc Passola welcomed us and was kind enough to show us around the historic UNESCO heritage palace and its modern hotel wing. The hotel boasts a restaurant, the Senzone, as well as a spa and a wonderful garden with Arabian-style fountains and some ancient orange and pomegranate trees. Hotel Rooms at the Hospes Palacio de los Patos At Hospes Palacio de los Patos, guests can stay in the converted 19th-century palace, or in the more contemporary white building. Either way, the rooms are tastefully furnished in a simple, sleek style. However, if you rather prefer a modern style, take one of the rooms in the hotel’s new extension. We stayed in the converted 19th-century palace; very nice, with beautiful materials and nice decor – but with 2 suitcases we just about fit in there… Nevertheless, we enjoyed the stylish ambiance very much! Restaurant Senzone at Palacio de los Patos Since we had enjoyed a huge paella for lunch we did not feel like going out yet for another dinner. Hence we enjoyed some tasty and refined tapas dishes a the restaurant Senzone. Try the “Banuelos de Bacalao” – veeerry yummy! The breakfast buffet they offer at restaurant Senzone is very refined with a very nice selection. We specially liked all the small bottling jars with fruits, jam, cereals – and being Swiss, we also enjoyed the different breads they offer, since usually in Spain they just serve white bread. For more details check out the hotel’s website. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631686025237″ type=”gallery”] ## Plaza Vieja Hotel & Lounge in Almeria, Spain Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/plaza-vieja-hotel-lounge-almeria-spain The Plaza Vieja Hotel and Lounge is located in the heart of Almería, at Plaza de la Constitución. The hotel is a perfect mix between tradition and modern style. Plaza Vieja Hotel & Lounge in Almeria Ok, we had a bit of difficulty to find the The Plaza Vieja Hotel and Lounge, since it is in the center of the old town, but at the same time in a very quiet and a car-free area. But once we found the place, we were really fascinated, since the Hotel offers a romantic but at the same time urban ambiance. It has been built in a building from the 19th Century. The entrance is set up in a library style and the outdoor lounge area with the colourful cushions offer an enjoyable spot. Rooms at the Plaza Vieja Hotel in Almeria The Hotel offers 10 bedrooms on two floors. With parquet floors and large photo prints, the décor of the rooms combines modern design with a sense of history. The Suite we had was very spacious, furbished in a modest way, but very stylish! And the view from the room was great! We overlooked the Plaza de la Constitución and had a view on the Alcazaba (the Moorish fortification in Almeria, deriving from the Arabic world). Aire de Almeria – the Arab Bath at the Plaza Vieja Hotel & Lounge The Hotel also features an Arab Bath – the Aire de Almeria – including a Hammam, a Salt-Bath, a Hydro-Massage Bath and a Relaxation Room. After a tour through the various bathes with different temperatures you feel totally relaxed. Don’t miss it! The entrance is included in the price of the suite. Get some more impressions: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631785778365″ type=”gallery”] Day trip to Desert Springs Golf Course in Almanzora While we were staying in Almeria we made a day trip to Desert Springs Golf Course in Almanzora, which is approx. 1.5 hours drive from Almeria but definitely worth the trip! The amazing Indiana Course – inspired by the famous desert courses of Arizona & California – offers unforgettable views, and golf of such a dramatic nature that you really feel to play in the desert! Impressions from Arizona style golf course Desert Springs: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157603979294783″ type=”gallery”] ## Sofitel London Heathrow – check out this stylish airport hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/sofitel-hotel-london-heathrow-stylish-stop-over-airport While on stop-over in London Heathrow you should not only enjoy the modern Terminal 5 but also the adjacent Sofitel Hotel. It’s restaurants and bars are worth staying there for too long… The rooms are very generous, too. And they are perfectly soundproof given the fact that the aircrafts take off just next to it… Hotel Restaurant The restaurants offer tasty fish dishes and some more. The Belle Epoque’s gourmet French cuisine is the only fine-dining restaurant at Heathrow. It’s very hard to choose just one item! Hotel Bars The Perrier-Jouët Bar is operated in partnership with the famous champagne house and offers an extensive menu of champagnes as well as wines and other drinks. Rich gold and green tones and stunning art exhibitions create an intimate atmosphere in this atrium setting. The Sphere Bar & Lounge sports striking Icelandic décor and a generous fireplace. Signature cocktails are served along with wine, beer, and clever small bites, like specialty canapés. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157631637511448″ type=”gallery”] Hotel concierge Nico di Giovanni was instrumental in helping me and my camera around. Thanks for your support! ## Underrated affordable luxury travel destinations in Europe Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/underrated-affordable-luxury-travel-destinations-europe The capital cities of Europe are among the most chic, romantic and fashionable in the world, and cities such as Paris, London, Rome and Barcelona offer magnificent sights, attractions of historical significance and fabulous luxury accommodations. The drawback is that the cost of visiting the most famous European destinations reflects their standing, and as a result vacations in the prime locations are expensive. Clever travelers, however, have long been able to circumvent the crowds and find marvelous hidden treasures in underrated destinations, but without compromising on the quality and level of luxury offered by their chosen spot. By Dave and Katie Belgium Considered by many to be a boring, administrative center, Brussels has some hidden attributes that should make visitors think again. Luxury accommodations in Brussels, for example, are the same high quality yet considerably cheaper than their counterparts in Rome or Milan. Gastronomic delights include superb seafood – elegant and sumptuous baby shrimp, mussels and oysters from the North Sea. Belgian beer is highly rated and the city boasts trendy restaurants and bars, and has a vibrant nightlife scene. Buildings featuring fabulous art nouveau architecture complement the 17th century splendor of the Grand Place, and the many excellent museums and galleries include one that is devoted to the work of the surrealist artist René Magritte. Denmark While Copenhagen remains the principal draw for foreign visitors to Denmark, the inside knowledge of the Danes means they have long favored the magnificent North Zealand region for a great vacation. The coastal route from Copenhagen has miles of sandy beaches with calm waters and offers views across to Sweden; there are lakes and forests, country manors, castles and royal parks, plus the summer home of the Danish royal family, and Kronborg Castle, made famous as Elsinore in Shakespeare’s Hamlet. All this plus art galleries and museums; this region has an abundance of natural features and is packed with history and heritage. Slovakia As the membership of the EU has grown and the remoter, formerly communist countries have become accessible for vacationers, it’s increasingly possible to find cheap flights to many previously hidden parts of the continent. For example, Prague, capital city of the Czech Republic, has become such a well-known destination that effectively it overshadows its nearby neighbor Bratislava, the capital city of Slovakia. Travelers keen to find out more about Bratislava’s lavish charms will note that the city – particularly the Old Town area – has undergone a stunning transformation, renovating its important historic buildings as well as creating great accommodations and a widely varied restaurant and nightlife culture. The hallmarks of the city include castles, quaint squares and excellent views of the River Danube. Prague is just over three hours away by car, so it’s possible to get two great city experiences in one luxury vacation. Germany The elegant baroque town of Dresden has been completely rebuilt since World War II and offers a tempting alternative to Berlin and Munich. There is an impressive range of luxury accommodations including first-class hotels equipped with saunas and spas, set amongst the stunning landscape of the River Elbe. Local attractions include; Zwinger Palace, Semper Opera House and the fabulous Frauenkirche with its towering white domes. A renowned city of culture, Dresden offers impressive programs of orchestral and choral concerts, theater and dance performances to suit all tastes. ## Golf and Lifestyle Roundtrip in Andalusia, Spain Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/golf-lifestyle-roundtrip-andalusia-spain Autumn in Spain’s southern region of Andalusia is among the best travel seasons. It’s not so hot anymore and not rainy just yet. Golfers enjoy of a very mild Mediterranean climate and spectacular golf courses. We chose the two first weeks of October for a roundtrip along nice golf courses and cosy boutique hotels. They include – Plaza Vieja Hotel and Lounge – Hospes Palacio de los Patos – Unfortunately Hacienda de San Rafael was fully booked when we asked. – Eurostars Hacienda La Boticaria – Hotel V in Vejer De La Frontera – Finca Cortesin Recommended Travel Itinerary We take to Malaga’s airport and start our trip out in Almeria and the Desert Springs golf course. Then the route is counterclockwise according to the map below. Best Season to Travel to Andalusia The best seasons for trips to Spains southern regions are spring and autumn. ## Eight Places not to miss when in Brazil Source: https://travelmemo.com/brazil/must-see-places-brazil Olá e benvindo ao Brasil – Translates into “Hello and welcome to Brazil”. Be prepared to hear this often when you step foot onto the warm and friendly country of Brazil. You’ve seen them at the Olympic Games; the super-devoted fans decked out with bright green and yellow attire. If you are planning to visit Brazil someday soon, it might be fun to tie in your visit with the 2014 World Cup or the 2016 Olympic games. Once you arrive, try to make time to see some of the following sites, in between all the soccer, swimming and track events. By Bill Weston. Here’s eight must-see places to get your Brazilian spirit going: 1. Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) It’s become Rio’s trademark as much as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris or Buckingham Palace to London. The giant statue of Jesus, arms spread open at the precipice of Corcovado Mountain stands at height of 130 feet. It would be difficult not to see him as you travel along the streets of Rio far below his outstretched arms. There is a tram that can take you to the up the mountain and with an additional climb of 222 stairs you can reach the statue. 2. Fernando de Noronha If sultry breezes and clear tropical waters are on your must-see list, then be sure to include this little tropical paradise. Not a big nightlife destination, but if sand and surf appeals more than drinks and dancing stay here and leave the city things back in Rio. Carnival is a non-stop four day party. As a matter of fact, book a trip here after Carnival, you’ll probably need a little rest and relaxation. 3. Amazon River Of course, what trip to Brazil would be complete without checking out one of the largest rivers in the world! (Only Egypt’s Nile River could compete with a tributary this size and volume of water). The Amazon river offers home to more than 3,000 species, among them the rare River Dolphin and the ever-popular piranhas. Careful dipping those toes in! 4. Bonito Unlike the crystalline waters of the Atlantic, this is all part of Brazil’s unique fresh-water rivers system. A haven for nature lovers and for those who want to keep their travels green and eco-friendly. Blue Lake Caves are some of the most beautiful and idyllic settings to snorkel among tropical fish and plunging waterfalls, best part: no sharks to worry about, just soothing water and lots of nooks and cranny’s to explore. 5. Pantanal In keeping with your eco-theme you won’t want to miss this protected wildlife habitat. If bird-watching is a passion, then you can do your birding here until your heart’s content. Picture macaws, hawks, herons and egrets all in their natural environment. There’s some other residents here you’ll want to get lots of photos of, too. Lizards and Capybaras are among a couple of non-feathered friends here, well, those and jaguars. 6. Sao Paulo It’s one of Brazil’s busiest ports, but also one of the most historic. If history is part of your travel experience, then you’ll want to book a tour here. Basilica de Sao Bento and the Museu Afro Brasil should both be on that historic itinerary. The Basilica is an architect’s dream with its spires and stained-glass windows, flanking the entrance are columns of palm trees, be prepared to be impressed. Afterwards, go learn about Brazil’s unique African heritage at the Afro Brasil Museum. 7. Iguacu Falls Named as one of UNESCO’s modern natural wonders, once visiting here it should not come as any surprise that it would earn one of these top titles. Breathtaking in its natural beauty and wonder, it’s set deep in the verdant jungles, after visiting here make sure you jump on a jungle train tour. Where else can you see monkeys and jaguars in the wild? 8. Copacabana Beach Yep, just like the famous song crooned by Barry Manilow, music and passion are always in fashion, here. Wander the beaches and enjoy the restaurants and nightlife just like a “Cariocas” (for those not in the know, that’s some who was born in Rio). Wow, what a trip! Rainforests, jungles, wild animals, idyllic landscapes, beaches and of course, big city nightlife. All you’ll be thinking about on the flight home is all those places you didn’t get to but will sure you do the next time you come down. Author bio: Bill Weston is an avid adventurist and outdoorsman who loves hunting, fishing, hiking, camping, writing, and good conversation with new and interesting people. Bill blogs on the topics of the RV lifestyle and outdoor recreation for Lakeshore RV, a dealer of a wide range of RV brands and manufacturers. ## Travel Blogger Photo Contest by TravelSupermarket Source: https://travelmemo.com/photograph/travel-blogger-photo-contest-travelsupermarket TravelSupermarket is hosting a photo contest. They ask for five photos representing the colors red, white, blue, green and yellow. Thanks Ken Kaminesky for bringing TravelSupermarket’s contest to my attention! Here’s my proposal of 5 colored photographs. BLUE: Boys Posing in Front of a Motorcycle In India you always need to take photographs of objects quickly or you’ll end up with hordes of gesticulating kids posing in front of your camera lens… Here I was obviously trying to take a photograph of the motorcycle… YELLOW: Palace Guard wearing a Yellow Turban More photographs from the colorful trip to Rajasthan are available from my blog here. RED: Lonely Poppy Flower in Sicily, Southern Italy From an awesome Sicily roundtrip in beautiful Italy. WHITE: Lavish Masseria Bagnara, Puglia, Italy Masseria Bagnara is a fairly recent refurbishment. Check out their luncheon offer. You’ll get hungry… As seen in Masseria Bagnara, Puglia region, Italy. Here’s a view of the whole boutique hotel setup. GREEN: Vietnamese Traffic Policeman Here’s more photographs of this traffic policeman at rush hour in lively Saigon, Vietnam. Travel blogger nomination These are my nominations: Jessica Benavides Canepa – the ‘English speaking’ soul behind my silly Swiss English. She gets my writing straight. My German is better over at reisememo.ch… traveltirement.com – To one of my most loyal readers (my mom doesn’t run a travel blog…) Emily in Chile – fun reading and inspiring photography from South America European Travelista – Helpful resource for European destinations. Travel Blog Challenge – How to (potentially) monetize a travel Thanks for your support, much appreciated! ## Samode Palace Hotel near Colorful Jaipur, Rajasthan Source: https://travelmemo.com/india/samode-palace-heritage-luxury-hotel-jaipur-rajasthan The state of Rajasthan is one of the most desirable tourist destination spots in India. The royal heritage as well as the rich and colorful culture of the state is what attracts people from places all over the world. Samode Palace near Jaipur is one of the best places you can opt for as an option for stay. This luxury hotel provides excellent accommodation options for tourists. The palace was built about 475 years back and provides the best example of Indo-Saracen architecture fusing both Indian as well as Mughal styles. The Samode Palace Heritage Luxury Hotel Samode Palace is famous for its magnificent courtyards and connected staircases, lounges that boast exquisite mirror work and beautifully painted walls and ceilings. This palace allows tourists to bask in the royal history given the beautiful architecture and setting. While residing in this palace, one is likely to stumble upon Samode Bagh, Samode’s rural yet picturesque dépendence. As one will enter through the huge gates, get a peek into the stables, the Mughal styled gardens and indulge in the glorious past of the place. Earlier on Samode Palace was used for private retreats by the Samode family. There are a number of trees, plants, flowers in a sanctuary that is set up between fountains, waterways and pavilions. The guests can enjoy sitting out under luxurious tents that have canopy style ceilings as well as verandahs. There are also a variety of beautiful birds that are a pleasure to the eyes. Samode Palace is an exceptionally beautiful hotel that is sure to mesmerize anyone and everyone who comes here. The place contains the historical as well as the traditional values of the past. However this has no effect on the latest and the most modern facilities that are offered by the hotel. The main aim of Samode Palace is to offer the best and the most luxurious services and comfort to the guests and it is well-known for the same on the basis of the feedback given by people who have stayed here once and availed its facilities. For more information please browse our availability and pricing page. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157630959165382″ type=”gallery”] The hotel’s homepage is www.samode.com. Best Travel Season for Northern State of Rajasthan The best travel season is from November through April. We went there in May and it was VERY hot… the advantage is that you get all tourist attractions to yourself ;-) ## Off the Beaten Path: Ugali and Blue Turaco, Mto Wa Mbu, Tanzania Source: https://travelmemo.com/tanzania/off-beaten-path-food-blue-turaco-mto-wa-mbu-tanzania Most countries have a national cuisine or dish that visitors are told they must try. It is often the highlight of a trip. From escargot in Paris to freshly made naan in India, I have loved trying new dishes while traveling. By Liz Yin. It is easy to use a guidebook to find restaurants that serve excellent examples of a country’s most famous dishes. However, sometimes you just don’t love what a country has to offer or maybe you eat so much of it you make yourself sick. I had this experience while studying abroad in Tanzania. This was not a luxury safari trip, so we ate where the locals ate at red Coca-Cola tables just off the street. Pretty much any place that has these plastic tables is generally safe to eat at. Although eating with locals definitely improved my minimal Swahili the choices were very limited. The national dish is ugali and is a very white, beyond bland, spongy starch made of maize. It is a good way to get calories and is filling, but has absolutely no flavor. It is usually used to scoop up stews with your hands. Unfortunately, even with a great stew I found I really preferred rice. So here I was in Mto Wa Mbu, Tanzania and pretty much all there is to eat is ugali and barbecued goat, which has great flavor, but is incredibly stringy. So it was a delight to discover Blue Turaco. It had just opened when we arrived in Mto Wa Mbu and the chef was an incredibly nice older Tanzanian. This is not a typical restaurant for Mto Wa Mbu, instead it serves napoli style pizza. And a really good one at that. Now my taste buds may have lowered their expectations a little bit after only eating rice and beans and a kale like green vegetable, but Blue Turaco makes a pretty amazing pizza. It was an incredibly unique find, and one that was not replicated for the rest of my 10 weeks in Tanzania and Kenya. This was not a restaurant run by ex-pats, but natives and my favorite pizza used “Arusha” cheese from a nearby larger city. With a cold Kili beer it makes for a great evening off the beaten path. To learn about more exciting and non traditional travel destinations subscribe to the Off The Beaten Path newsletter. This weekly newsletter will send hidden gems straight to your inbox to help you plan your trip or just inspire your next one! ## Living Large in San Francisco Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-states/living-large-san-francisco San Francisco is a city with limitless possibilities, especially if you’re a connoisseur of the luxurious lifestyle. Though the city is much larger than Union Square, Haight-Ashbury and the Mission District, this post should give you some great ideas for high rolling adventures in The City By The Bay. Union Square If you enjoy an indulgent lifestyle then you’re going to have a hard time ever leaving Union Square behind. Many shops, art galleries, night clubs, restaurants and hotels in this scenic part of the city are the epitome of elegance and luxury. Even though a ban on the sale of foie gras has been in effect since July 1st, the Fifth Floor is still an excellent spot for dining and cocktails. Plan on settling down with a few custom cocktails at the Fifth Floor, since the waiting time between meal courses can be a little bit long — but it’s always worth it. It’s hard to go wrong with any seafood dish at this contemporary, intimate eatery and a taste of either The Boston Tea Party or 24 Martini are on par with any designer drink in the city. If you’re staying in the area, St. Regis Hotel San Francisco is an excellent hotel that’s less than half a mile from Union Square — hello, walking distance! As expected of a high quality hotel, the rooms are the essence of luxury. The excellent view of the city, proximity to Union Square and the Indoor Infinity Pool put the St. Regis ahead of the pack. Union Square SF is a great source for specific information and event listings in Union Square. Haight-Ashbury Though Haight-Ashbury is much different than it was fifty years ago in the age of flower power, it’s still a must-visit destination for any traveler. The streets are paradise for book lovers, record collectors and fashionistas — there’s plenty of shopping all around. For great Middle Eastern cuisine, spiced wine and belly dancing check out Kan Zaman. Though it used to be known as a hookah bars, hookahs are no longer allowed indoors in San Francisco bars and eateries. That doesn’t stop Kan Zaman from being a unique experience on lively weekend nights. Less than a mile from Haight-Ashbury, Casa Luna Rentals San Francisco doesn’t just rent hotel rooms — it rents two room apartments! Complete the experience with a private chef. Casa Luna also prides itself on being eco-friendly, a trait that perfectly captures the spirit of San Francisco. Market Street is also easily accessible from Casa Luna, but it’s not likely that you’ll get bored wandering around Haight-Ashbury during a short stay. Mission District The Mission is a great place for art, music, food and cocktails, as well as a great place to learn about the history of the city. Before you head to a cantina or taqueria, make sure you visit Mission Dolores, which is both a must-see landmark and a museum of culture hosted in San Francisco’s oldest building. Balmy Alley and Clarion Alley are an excellent place to check out a plethora of amazing murals that capture the essence of The Mission in modern times and days gone by. Though great Mexican food is abundant, there are some other options to try in The Mission. Nicaragua Restaurant serves excellent Nicaraguan cuisine, along with a variety of beer and wine. Newcomers should try one of the sample plates, but remember to pack cash — Nicaragua Restaurant doesn’t take credit or debit cards. The Mission is also quite close to the St. Regis, but the Mandarin Oriental, San Francisco is another good choice for lodging when visiting the Mission District. It includes everything you’d expect from a luxury hotel, but also grants easy access to Chinatown. San Francisco offers plenty of opportunities for people who enjoy the finer things in life. There’s much more to the city than Union Square, Haight-Ashbury and the Mission District… but you have to start somewhere, right? Author bio Wesley McDonald is a proud San Franciscan who enjoys blogging about travel, culture, the hospitality industry and life in the city. He is an online publisher for the San Francisco hotel experts. ## Top three Ibiza holiday activities Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/ibiza/top-three-ibiza-holiday-activities Ibiza is famous the world over as a top clubbing destination. However, there is much more to this island than all-night raves and sun-kissed beaches. Here, we shall take a look at three of the top activities for those who want to explore the rest of the White Isle. Diving Feeling a little hot under the collar? Diving in Ibiza can be a great way to get out of the heat and into the cool, clear water to explore the full beauty of the local marine environment. Whether you have never gone scuba diving before, or you are vastly experienced beneath the waves, you can get everything you need from equipment to professional training at one of the diving centers in San Miguel, Portinatx, or San Antonio. One of the best places to go diving on the island is the Las Salinas National Park, which is a UNESCO world heritage site famous for its diverse marine life and ecologically important sea grass. Cycling While Ibiza is famous for its beaches, much of the island is actually covered in dense, fragrant forests full of lemon, almond, pine, fig, and olive trees. The northeast part of the island, in particular, is a rural idyll far removed from the 24-hour party people lifestyle for which the island is famous. There are 21 main cycle routes on the island, graded from Green, which is around 9 miles and takes one or two hours to complete, to Black, which is 53 miles or approximately eight hours. These routes cover every corner of the island, and the directions can be downloaded to a GPS device or smartphone. The best time to go biking is just outside of the peak holiday season in April, May, and October, when the weather is a little cooler. Visiting the historic town of Dalt Vila Ibiza is an island with a rich history, with a varied mix of colonial influences from its time under Moorish, Spanish, French, and Turkish rule. The best place to see this clash of historic architectural styles is in the old town of Ibiza Town, Dalt Vila. This walled town is set on a steep incline upwards from the waters around Ibiza town, and its most prominent feature is a beautiful 16th century cathedral. Walking up its cobbled streets to the castle, you will see host of beautiful buildings dating back to medieval times, such as mansions and townhouses, as well as a number of shops selling the best ice cream the island has to offer. ## 5 Tips to Better Plan your Miami Vacation Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-states/5-hotel-restaurant-tips-plan-miami-vacation Everyone deserves a vacation. The hardest part about planning a vacation though is deciding where to actually go. You literally have thousands of great destinations to choose from across the world. This is of course assuming you have the budget to do so. By Joselyn Seifer. One great destination that can sometimes get overlooked though is Miami, Florida. Miami is an absolutely beautiful part of the southeast that you must experience. If you want a vacation with lots of variety, Miami definitely fits the bill. Here are five easy tips to help you get there. A Package Deal including Rental Car and Hotel Depending on how long you want to stay, a week or a weekend, look for a package deal. A rental car and hotel combo will save you money. Search online for great deals or sign up to receive email notifications and coupons. Plan ahead at least six to eight weeks in advance if you are flying into Miami, and when a good deal does come along, be ready to act quickly. Where to Stay in Miami There are over 250 hotels, B&B’s, and vacation rentals in Miami. Plan where you want to stay by the number of guest you are going with. If your anniversary is near, consider staying at the highly recommended Miami Guest House or Coconut Grove Bed and Breakfast. For the upcoming family reunion celebration, consider renting a vacation home for everyone to stay together. Staying in the city would be fun in a high rise hotel room like EPIC Hotel, or Casa Moderna Miami. Order some room service and get a bird’s eye view of an amazing cityscape. If you’re a fan of art, consider staying in the Art Deco Historic District of Miami in the famous Sagamore Hotel. What to Do in Miami Beach The beaches are breathtaking. Miami is famous for them. If you love to lounge in the sand or swim in the ocean, then head out to Virginia Key Beach Park. Another fun place to take the whole family is Zoo Miami. Or take an art deco walking tour through South Beach. There are numerous places to see and explore. Visit Coral Castle or the Ancient Spanish Monastery. They have both been dubbed historical hot spots in South Florida. Where to Eat in Miami Are you hungry? There are over 1,000 places to eat in Miami. If you want happy travelers, they need satisfying meals. Eat at one of Miami’s great restaurants, and everyone in your party will be happy. Try a bite at the very fancy Ola at the Sanctuary, or a budget-friendly meal at LuLu’s in Coconut Grove. You can find a lot of Cuban style cuisine off the beaten path as well. These places all feature great service and delicious food. Packing Should Be Easy Check the weather and decide what month you want to go visit. You’ll be surprised that Miami weather is almost always perfect in the summer months. Hit the beaches for fun in the sun. The slightly cooler months of October through April have cooler nights, so pack a sweater. The city’s average temperature of 72 degrees is still ideal for outdoor activities. If you plan ahead and know where to stay and what to eat, you will have the best time in one of the best cities. Guest post by Joselyn Seifer from hotels.com. ## Zermatt – Matterhorn, nature and chic design hotels Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/zermatt-matterhorn-nature-design-hotels Zermatt nestles at the foot of the Matterhorn at about 1,610 meters above sea level and is one of the most popular of Switzerland’s renowned holiday resorts. Recreational opportunities abound in and around the village that is car-free. Zermatt and leisure time activities The 400 km of marked foot trails around Zermatt practically invite you on extended walking tours. The one-of-a-kind mountain scenery stays almost constantly in view for non-stop amazement. A great diversity of flora and fauna frames the stunning mountain experience. Matterhorn panorama as seen from the “Trockener Steg” mountain station But action-oriented vacationers will also delight in the mountain biking and equestrian trails and paragliding venues. And even golfers get their due at the alpine 9-hole golf course situated between Täsch and Randa. Surprisingly, it is “flat as a pancake” … not exactly what you would expect from a “mountain golf course”… In winter, Zermatt, with a total of 200 (!) runs is truly a winter sports paradise. The ski area with guaranteed snow offers over 300 km of pistes in three different ski areas: the Sunnegga-Rothorn paradise, Gornergrat-Stockhorn and the Schwarzsee-Matterhorn glacier paradise. Swiss flag before the Theodul glacier near Zermatt Non-athletic types will also find a trip to the idyllic mountain village well worth their while. A train ride to the Gornergrat or a scenic tour by helicopter are just two options for a fabulous vacation experience. The aerial shot below showing the Matterhorn and the Gornergrat train by Swissview reveals the breathtaking beauty of the mountainscape around Zermatt (also available in full length version on DVD in Swissview’s online shop). R04_28_Gornergratbahn_Zermatt wistiaEmbed = Wistia.embed("mnplz96yut", { videoFoam: true }); Gorner Gorge The Gorner Gorge is one of Zermatt’s most fascinating natural wonders. Located just a few minutes’ walk from the southern end of Zermatt village, it is within easy reach. The gorge was carved over millennia by the Gornera River and is remarkable for its bizarre formations and picturesque waterfalls. Gorner Gorge near Zermatt with stairs on the rock face A secure path with catwalks and wooden stairs winds through the gorge. Of course, to descend into the thundering gorge you need to have just a modicum of faith in the engineers’ handiwork…. Designer lodgings in Zermatt You can find just about any type of accommodations in Zermatt: from holiday apartments to simple B&Bs to trendy hotels with chic designed into them… Wall clock and sconces in Zermatt’s Hotel Matthiol For our weekend, we decided on the Matthiol boutique hotel – with never a second’s regret for our choice! The hotel offers beautiful rooms, exquisite service and a gourmet cuisine. Lounge in the Hotel Matthiol, Zermatt Tourism and Zermatt Obviously, tourists are not going to stay away from Zermatt. Still, we were surprised that we did not encounter just Japanese, Chinese and Indians. Clearly, Zermatt still attracts very many Europeans to its vacation paradise. A hamlet between Furi and Zermatt In some respects, Zermatt does live up to the stereotypical Swiss image – expect to be greeted by an alpenhorn serenade at the train station. Understandably, you won’t just find foreign visitors gathered around. Being typical urbanites, we, too, could not resist taking pictures of the alpenhorn ensemble. :-) See more photo highlights here: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157630639285748″ type=”gallery”] ## Soaking up the Glamour of Barcelona Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/barcelona-glamour-sites Barcelona has a deserved reputation as the nightlife capital of Europe. The city offers the usual dizzying array of nightclub, bars and other hang-outs you’d find in any other major European capital. They key difference however is timing, this is a city which is happy to party until 7am on a week day, drink a few cups of coffee and head to the office. By Adam Cobb. Less deserved however is the city’s reputation as an overpriced tourist trap. While there are places to avoid it’s entirely possible to have a glitzy night out on a budget, particularly if you’re used to the prices of London or New York. Thanks to the city’s huge range of other attractions filling up your day needn’t be a chore either. Eclipse and Splash While its design and location have divided the city there is no doubt that the W Hotel has instantly become one of Barcelona’s most popular nightspots. The Eclipse bar is certainly worth a visit (bring the camera!) but with drinks being sold at a 1,500% markup over what you’d pay in the supermarket lingering can be expensive. Back down on ground level the pool area hosts achingly cool parties most nights. Do go to Eclipse but don’t plan to spend the evening there. Olympic Pool at Montjuic Following your glitzy night at the W why not slow things down a bit and take in what the UK’s Guardian newspaper described as ‘the best swimming pool in the world’. Admission to the Olympic pool at Montjuïc is a steal at only 5.35 euros per person and the views will be an excellent backdrop both to your swim and the inevitable snapshots you will take while you’re there. In fact so stunning is the view that it starred as the backdrop for Kyle Minogue’s 2003 music video ‘Slow’. Beach Party! On your second night in Catalonia why not take in an experience you’d struggle to get at home? Most of Barcelona’s beaches, particularly Mar Bella in the north of the city, play host to beach clubs which will often run free admission events on Sunday evenings. While this inevitably means that drinks will be massively overpriced (although prices are still very mild compared to the W) you don’t need to drink to enjoy yourself. The BOO restaurant and beach club often runs events like this early in the summer but a quick glance at Facebook will show that they’re hardly difficult to find. If you keep an eye on the right websites and talk to people you see around you shouldn’t have too much trouble bagging an invite to one of the more exclusive venues. Getting your name on ‘the list’ needn’t be much trouble either, often all you need to do is email the right person! On beach parties are also fairly common over the summer months; check for flyers or online for details. Street Party Finally it would be remiss to write a guide to Barcelona without mentioning some of the many carnivals and street festivals which take place throughout the year. The midsummer festival of San Juan which takes place on June 23 is a feverous night when seemingly the entire city will take to the beach. Most clubs and bars will offer special menus and events for those looking for a more relaxed and refined approach to events (book in advance if you have your eye on a particular venue). The metro also runs all night and the city takes the next day off in order to recover so don’t fret about fully letting your hair down! This gives you the perfect opportunity to stretch out in a fabulous apartment from Oh-Barcelona and enjoy the freedom of the Catalan capital. Also worth being in town for is the national festival of Catalonia on the 11th of September. Barcelona is a truly mesmerising city and by collecting insider tips like these before you go you can ensure that you make the very most of your time in the city. Author Bio Adam Cobb moved from the windswept hills of Scotland to sun himself on the beaches of Barcelona. He is now a freelance writer in addition to working at Oh-Barcelona.com and tweets as @adamcobb ## Design Hotel Matthiol in Zermatt, Switzerland Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/design-hotel-matthiol-zermatt The chalet-style, four star superior Hotel Matthiol sits in quiet surroundings on the outskirts of Zermatt. Rustic and trendy, traditional and modern or even Alpine chic – the Matthiol is a study in contrasts that blend into a very accomplished whole. And as for the restaurant… Well, read on… Zermatt Zermatt nestles at the foot of the Matterhorn at about 1,610 meters above sea level and is one of the most popular of Switzerland’s renowned holiday resorts. Read in our separate review what you can expect. Matterhorn panorama as seen from the “Trockener Steg” mountain station Hotel Matthiol in Zermatt The ten double rooms and 13 suites of the Matthiol were designed and furnished with great attention to detail. Rustic wood, noble materials in warm, natural color are set off by daring color combinations. We thought the turquoise colored cowhide rug was really something :-) Bedside lamps in the Junior Suite The Restaurant in the Hotel Matthiol The Hotel Matthiol’s particular charm is not only reflected in the lovingly appointed guest rooms and suites, but also in the head chef’s culinary finesse; Maria Gross and her team create delicacies of the highest order! Maria Gross at her culinary best They use market-fresh products exclusively for their dishes. Whether confitures, pasta or ice cream – the kitchen team serves up house made treats at their finest. The breakfast buffet already has made its share of late risers’ hearts beat faster: fine, fresh-squeezed juices, a variety of fresh fruit, different breads, cheese varieties and cold cuts. The veal pate is highly recommended…umm, good! So much for the compulsory program. The freestyle program doesn’t start until evening in the Matthiol. The German language unfortunately fails us in trying to give the food its due…what the head chef dishes up is, in the first place, a first rate piece of visual art. Her creations would in all likelihood sell like hot cakes in some art galleries. We managed only to stammer something like “Wow! how beautiful, fantastic…” and so on. Then, when we picked up the extra heavy cutlery, quiet set in at the table and people nodded to each other with expressive eyes: We are truly in Zermatt heaven… As is their wont, when intent on making a real impression on the restaurant guests, they start dinner off with an amuse bouche in a stylish genre. Amuse bouche That succeeds in quickly escalating the sense of anticipation by two or three notches, but kitchen and service staff— orchestrated by food and beverage manager Florian – then exceed unperturbed even the most demanding requirements. Between courses, we quickly crib in the 2012 Gault Millaut Guide: It was also very satisfied and awarded 13 points. Well played! Those who chose wisely opted for an appetizer of scampo of shrimp and couscous with lemon. We will spare you here our maladroit attempts to describe this variation on exquisite seafood cooked à point. It tasted just as good as it looked: juicy, crisp, and varied with the necessary dash of homage to the sea. Matterhorn or not. Scampo and shrimp Appetizer While we did justice to the appetizers, they had diverted themselves in the kitchen with an unannounced entrée, probably just as a little learning exercise. To accompany the pigeon leg (!) they brought out rolled up pigeon breast with garnishes whose names have escaped us. It simply lives as a vibrant memory… Pigeon leg and pigeon breast as entrée At this point, all you can do is to sink back relaxed against the comfortable back of your chair. What a feast! Of course, by no means is the Matthiol crew finished with us. Next came the crowning glory: The beef tenderloin with its bit of osso buco is of the most delicate variety and the accompanying béarnaise sauce is a dream. That the asparagus is going to come up a little short in comparison is to be expected; besides, you can get it anywhere. But the zucchini ring stuffed with red cabbage rounded out everything very harmoniously. Highly recommended! As a vegetarian, my table mate is more likely to swear by their designer collection of coquilles Saint Jacques with a Heida white wine risotto. The scallops, lightly crusted on the outside but still juicy to the bite, also were said to have achieved a worthy climax. Scallops But the little towers of goat’s cheese ravioli with vegetable variations were also said to be well worth being tempted by. Choosing among these main courses was no picnic!! Goat cheese ravioli with asparagus side After so many palatable courses, we had to pass on dessert. Well, to the extent possible: Someone after all could not resist the delicious collection of chocolates and, interestingly, everyone got to round off the meal with a small saucer of vanilla sauce: a dessert amuse bouche in a way. Vanilla nosh as dessert Congratulations to hotel director Manuel Berger, Maria Gross and the entire team for this magnificent staging and attentive service! Wellness in the Matthiol Zermatt The hotel’s wellness area with steam bath, herbal and Finnish sauna, experience showers, and also a “Black Pearl jacuzzi” is not big but it does the trick. Finnish sauna in the wellness area The peaceful relaxation room with direct access to the terrace is the perfect place to let your soul unwind afterward. Spa loungers Here are some more photo impressions: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157630587667812″ type=”gallery”] Prices and availability of the Hotel Matthiol Zermatt. ## Travel Blogger Photo Contest – the Long List Source: https://travelmemo.com/photograph/photo-contest-travel-blogger TravelSupermarket is hosting a photo contest. They ask to submit five photos representing the colors red, white, blue, green and yellow. Can you please help me decide which of the three following options I should submit? I got all confused after sifting through my numerous galleries… Thanks Ken Kaminesky for hinting me at TravelSupermarket’s contest! Photo Contest Option I: Rajasthan, India I compiled a few impressions from a colorful trip to Rajasthan. Should I submit this collection to the contest or rather the ones below? Suggestions, anyone? RED: Red Fort in New Delhi WHITE: Elegant Bicycle Guy in Jaipur BLUE: Boys Posing in Front of a Motorcycle In India you always need to take photographs of objects quickly or you’ll end up with hordes of kids in front of you. Here I was obviously trying to take a photograph of the motorcycle… GREEN: Oberoi Udaivilas Hotel Pool in Udaipur YELLOW: Palace Guard wearing a Yellow Turban More photographs from the colorful trip to Rajasthan are available from my blog here. Photo Contest Option II: Stonetown, Zanzibar I always knew I would travel to Zanzibar one day for no other reason than its exotic name… “Zanzibar”… how would you not want to travel to a place of that name! Okay, there’s also places called Uagadougou, Dar es Salaam or Jaisalmer and Viña del Mar, but you’ve got to start somewhere… Anyway, here are my color proposals for the photo contest: RED: Kids Playing in Stonetown’s Street This could have been the ‘yellow’ photograph, too. But I’ll explain later why it’s the ‘red’ one. WHITE: Stonetown Shopping Street Shopping Zanzibar style: The streets in Stonetown are very narrow yet atmospheric. And you can easily get lost, the streets all look very similarly! BLUE: Fisherman’s Business Bicycle by the Beach Or should I allow myself into the competition? GREEN: Shy Girl Hiding Away her Brother YELLOW: High Tech Communication in Zanzibar I know, calling this the ‘yellow photograph’is a bit of a stretch. But since above photos could also have gone through as yellow/green I thought I could get away with it… More photographs from amazing Zanzibar are available from this post. Until here I figured mixing photos from different trips would be too easy. But then I actually read what the judges were looking for in the photos and I came up with yet more options. So now I’m fully confused. Life is rough… Photo contest option III: From all over the world Should I go with these? And which one exactly? RED: Lonely Poppy Flower in Sicily, Southern Italy From an awesome Sicily roundtrip in beautiful Italy. WHITE: Wedding Dress in Masseria Cimino, Puglia, Italy Check out the stunning Masseria Cimino in Puglia, Italy, if you care for exceptional rural stays and a round of golf by the sea. Or should I enter the contest rather with this shot? As seen in Masseria Bagnara, still in Puglia, Italy. I would probably have chosen this one had there been the “Orange” category… BLUE: Mexican Hacienda or rather Indian Maharaja Palace? Enjoy an exceptional hacienda roundtrip in Yucatan, Mexico! And from yet another roundtrip, this time again from Rajasthan: Check out the top notch luxury palace Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur. GREEN: Vietnamese Traffic Policeman or Spanish Golf Course? More photographs of this traffic policeman at rush hour in Saigon, Vietnam. From a golf week with golf pro Mischa Peter in Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain. YELLOW: Nice Lighting in Swiss Hotel Restaurants One of Giardino Mountain‘s hotel restaurants, as recently opened in St. Moritz in the Swiss Alps. But I could as well see this other restaurant in the competition… Fine dining yet again in the Swiss Alps, this time around in La Val hotel in Brigels. But now – I decided to go with this New York City taxi cab. It’s odd Ken already came up with the same topic, but I will still try this one… … it’s not like I was aiming for this shot. I discovered the policeman only while developing the photos from a trip to New York City… ## Top Three Affordable Luxury Resorts in North America Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-states/top-affordable-luxury-resorts-north-america Summertime is the time for escape. For children, the season represents an escape from the classrooms. For adults on vacation, it is a time of escape from reality, the worries at home. For everyone, it’s simply an escape from the cold, grueling winter months. That vacation time for adults is precious time. By travel writer David Bryce. Generally speaking, American companies don’t allow for too much vacation time. In that rare instance you are able to get away, obviously you want to do it right. However, in this economy, many families don’t have the money to go on a splashy and lavish trip. Many families actually can’t afford to get away at all. There are an increasing number of people who use what little paid vacation they are entitled to by staying at home. Thankfully, there are ways to get away without spending a fortune. Here are three of the best, yet still affordable, luxury resorts in North America. Red Mountain Resort & Spa I myself am something of an indoor cat, but for those who enjoy the outdoors, this is the perfect getaway. Located in close proximity to the red rock cliffs of Snow Canyon State Park, Red Mountain Resort offers an abundance of fun outdoor activities for its guests. Hiking is greatly emphasized here, as the resort offers 30 guided tours (the tours vary from week to week). Many take the opportunity to trek Zion National Park or Bryce Canyon. Those who aren’t afraid to travel just a little bit more can go the 100 miles or so to explore the Grand Canyon. For this, three meals a day, a massage and a chance to get some horse riding in, guests only have to pay a little over $250 a night. Desert Springs JW Marriott Resort & Spa Everything just seems bigger in California, including the state itself. That certainly applies to the Desert Springs JW Marriott Resort & Spa, which contains 884 rooms and measures in at 38,000 square feet. Each of the 884 rooms at this Palm Beach resort comes equipped with granite vanities, HDTV screens and, most importantly, a private balcony to observe the vast southern California landscape. You don’t even need to travel to experience a different restaurant every night; this resort has eight onsite. For a little over $400 a night, guests can stay at this gorgeous resort, get a tasty breakfast, two spa treatments and access to the state of the art gym. Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort To get here may require a little bit more traveling, but this Costa Rica marvel will make it worth the trip. The Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort has a lot of spark, possibly attributable to the fact that it sits at the base of the 5,360 foot Arenal Volcano. Or maybe it’s because of the hot springs the resorts sits on top of, creating an abundance of thermal pools that are guaranteed to invigorate anyone who sits in them. The pathways are populated with gorgeous tropical plants. It’s an island getaway, only inside and with spa treatments. Guest can stay here for three nights at $1,496. For a Central America treasure like this, that’s a steal. Everyone needs a vacation, whether it’s from work, school or themselves. These are some of the best places in this great continent of ours to escape to. Author bio: David Bryce is a travel writer who enjoys writing about travel and family vacations. He currently blogs for Thousand Hills Golf Resort in Branson, MO. ## Cristal Fassbind Design Hotel in the heart of Geneva Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/cristal-fassbind-design-hotel-geneva The Cristal Fassbind Hotel is conveniently located close to Geneva’s central train station. This modern hotel offers practical rooms in a cool-glass design look. Not your usual design concept but well worth a look… Rooms at the Cristal Fassbind Hotel Designer room with lots of glass in the Hotel Cristal Fassbind Geneva The 3 star business hotel Cristal Hotel Geneva provides the usual WiFi comfort and rooms with a practical layout. The floor-to-ceiling windows create an “airy” feeling, especially in the upper floors. Stylish bedside reading lamps The furnishings may at first glance seem Spartan, but many design touches help to create a home-away-from-home ambiance – just right without question for dynamic business people. Likely as not, they will just be sitting at the small WiFi desk anyway, hammering away at their keyboard. Breakfast is served on the top floor. The buffet is conventional, but the view is not… The value proposition is a very good one. The other hotels in the vicinity charge much more, or at least more, but for the most part they are less modern or they stand so near the tracks that the freight trains seem to rumble right through your innards… Prices and availability Cristal Hotel Geneva. Illuminated staircase – Hotel Cristal Geneva If you prefer to stay in the Paquis area, located quite close and also recommended: The Windsor Geneva. ## Big Events in London this Summer Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/big-events-london-summer 2012 is a big year for London, with all sorts of sensational events taking place in the capital. Check out our handy guide to the biggest and best of the summer celebrations, guaranteed to liven up your London hotel break. By Show and Stay, the providers of hotel and London show packages. Proms 2012 13 Jul — 8 Sep 2012 The Royal Albert Hall plays host to the biggest classical music festival in the world, offering a series of incredible music events, including free concerts, workshops and talks. The concerts are intended to be casual and value-for-money, with tickets starting at just £5. Highlights include the remarkable first and last nights of the celebrations, including Proms in the Park, a Children’s Prom with Wallace and Gromit and a celebrity-studded rendition of My Fair Lady. Add a touch of Prom splendour to any London theatre deal by enjoying an afternoon classical concert. Queen’s Diamond Jubilee 2 —5 Jun 2012 To celebrate 60 years of the Queen’s reign, make the most of the Jubilee four-day weekend with a series of splendid events. Take part in the Big Jubilee Lunch, taking place nationwide, including a communal picnic running from Piccadilly Circus to St James Street. Join in the festivities at Battersea Park, where a whole host of fun-packed family activities will take place, including a massive kazoo orchestra playing the national anthem. Witness the beacon lighting event, in which 2,012 beacons will be illuminated across Britain and the world to commemorate this momentous occasion. Plus, be sure to catch the magnificent carriage procession from Westminster Hall to Buckingham Palace, complete with rifle salute on 5 June. Thames Pageant 3 June 2012 As part of the Jubilee celebrations, don’t miss this monumental river extravaganza, in which up to 1,000 boats will make up one of the largest ever flotillas gathered on the Thames. All types of vessels will take part, bedecked with Union Jack flags and streamers plus up to 30,000 flag-waving passengers. Look out for geyser-spouting boats, a floating belfry whose bells will echo those from churches on the riverbank, plus smoke and daytime fireworks to add to the visual spectacle. The fleet will make their way from Battersea to Tower Bridge between 2pm and 4pm, accompanied by gunfire salutes, bells, whistles, and music barges. Olympics and Paralympics 27 Jul — 12 Aug and 29 Aug — 9 Sep 2012 Prepare for a festival vibe throughout the city as London hosts the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, kicking off with the Opening Ceremony on 27 July, which welcomes the athletes to London. See the torch as it travels to the capital in the run-up, traversing through the UK for 70 days before arriving in London on 21 July, and journeying through each London borough before reaching the stadium for the start of the sports spectacular. The Paralympics opens on 29 August and showcases a range of 20 different sports. Alongside the games, don’t miss the London 2012 Festival, a celebration of arts and culture including free concerts and exhibitions throughout the city. Southbank Festival of the World 1 Jun — 9 Sep 2012 Soak up some cosmopolitan culture this summer at this spectacular multicultural celebration, which includes a variety of entertainments including music, art, dance and comedy, plus an array of international food markets and an urban beach. Celebrate spoken word at the largest ever poetry festival, with wordsmiths from every Olympic nation, or explore African arts at the Africa Utopia cultural summit and enjoy live acts at the BT River of Music. The Southbank Centre will become a site of world learning and merriment with this programme of free and exciting events. WorldPride 2012 in London 23 Jun — 8 Jul 2012 London is delighted to be hosting this year’s WorldPride event, a two-week long programme of rainbow-coloured celebrations including a main parade on 7 July promoting LGBT issues. This ostentatious and polychromatic procession will weave through the city’s streets before congregating in Trafalgar Square for a post-parade party including world-class performers. The schedule of events also includes a wide range of theatre shows, poetry, music and parties, and is expected to attract up to 1 million visitors to the capital. Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships 25 Jun — 8 Jul 2012 One of the world’s most prestigious Grand Slam competitions promises two weeks of tense tennis tournaments set to attract over 500,000 spectators. Seats are so oversubscribed that tickets must be allocated at random by computer from those who have applied, so get set to enjoy the matches on television, either in a pub, or in the garden with a bowl of strawberries and cream or a nice chilled Pimms. City of London Festival 24 Jun — 27 Jul 2012 The Square Mile comes to life this summer season with a fantastic festival of art, literature, film and music. From classical concerts to operas and organ recitals, this resplendent reverie will bring music and colour to the financial district. Look out for the fifty golden pianos dotted around the area, where you can play your own tune or take a free lesson to celebrate the festival’s golden jubilee. Join in the vibrant parade celebrating flowers of the world, or head to the Honey Feast on 27 July to honour the local beehives and their produce with a ceremonial wildflower planting plus bee-themed entertainment. Notting Hill Carnival 26 — 27 Aug 2012 Europe’s largest street festival brings West London to life on the August Bank Holiday weekend. Caribbean vibes, street bands and calypso fill the streets in this energetic and electrifying party. Watch the colourful costumes and floats parade through the streets while enjoying some authentic Caribbean cuisine from the wealth of stalls selling jerk chicken, goat curry and fried plantain. Get down with the steel bands and drum-beats while sipping on a rum punch or Jamaican lager, and don’t miss the after-parties on Monday after the main parade. Mayor’s Thames Festival 8 — 9 Sep 2012 In a glorious end to the summer festivities, and coinciding with the final weekend of the 2012 Games, this incredible festival celebrates the city and its river. The banks of the Thames will be transformed with stalls, street art, exhibitions, lanterns, circus acts and activities, while the river itself will be teeming with boat races and illuminations. Musical entertainment will include choral and percussion performances, plus a night carnival that will take place on Sunday, culminating in a breathtaking fireworks finale. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626828340391″ type=”gallery”] This handy guide was written by Show and Stay, the UK theatre break providers. ## Gritti Palace – Top Luxury Hotel in Venice Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/gritti-palace-top-luxury-hotel-venice The Starwood Luxury Collection’s Gritti Palace is an awesome Venice hotel right next to a Canal and near San Marcos Square. Explore Venice during wintertime, the light is very special! Starwood Luxury Collection: Gritti Palace Staying at the Hotel Gritti Palace is quite an experience by the Grand Canal… If you care for classic Italian design you should give it a try! Gritti Palace Restaurant The restaurant is very classy, too! Seating up to 60 guests, the Club del Doge restaurant, adjacent to the Grand Canal, is a renowned meeting point for Venetian and international gourmets. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157629957230978″ type=”gallery”] ## 5 Great yet Affordable Hotels in Venice, Italy Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/venice-5-great-affordable-hotels Venice is well-established as one of the world’s must-see cities, with its fascinating history, charming lack of roads and luxurious gondolas. Unfortunately, well-established must-see cities are not known for their modesty, and when it comes to budget travel, Venice presents a bit of a challenge due to its often fantastical prices during high season. But don’t scratch it off your list just yet, we’ve managed to track down five hotels that are not only more affordable than most in this upscale city, but also surprisingly pleasant. By Aileen Pablo. Just be sure to book your rooms well in advance, as affordable accommodation in Venice tends to get snapped up pretty quickly even during the off-season. 1. Ai do Mori Calle Larga San Marco 658 The Ai do Mori hotel is centrally located near St Mark’s Square, which makes it the perfect base for your adventures. The hotel has eleven rooms, many of which have excellent views of the fascinating clockwork Moors in the nearby square. Rooms here are not especially large, and they are modestly furnished; some even make do with shared bathrooms. But its quaint rooftop seating area provides you with a great view of your surroundings, and for just around 80 Euros a night; it’s a pretty good deal. 2. Acca Hotel San Polo – Calle Pezzana 2160 Acca Hotel Venice is fairly easy to find, unlike some others on this list, so it might be your first choice if you want to get off the plane, find your hotel and relax, without any hassle. The hotel has recently been rehabilitated, so it’s somewhat modernized, although still with a classic Venetian feel to it. It has nine rooms, of the luxuriously spacious as well as the cosily snug variety. It costs around 65 Euros (for a double room) during the off-season, although you may want to avoid it during the touristy months as prices can go up to 135 Euros. The surrounding neighbourhood of San Polo is a relaxed area, with open-air markets and quaint cafes to explore. 3. Pensione La Calcina Fondamenta delle Zattere, Dorsoduro 780 Slightly larger than the former two, Pensione La Calcina has 29 rooms and is located on the southern side of Dorsoduro. The area is less touristy but no less beautiful, with an amazing walkway along the Giudecca Canal, where you can find plenty of elegant terraces and restaurants to enjoy at the end of a long day of sightseeing. A double room will set you back no more than 100 Euros in mid season and the rooms are well worth it, with polished hardwood floors, tall windows and an elegant decor. 4. Corte Campana Bed & Breakfast Castello 4410, Calle del Rimedio Corte Campana is like a home away from home with comfortable rooms, welcoming dining area and lovely outdoor courtyard. Inside you’ll find an elegant decor complete a chandelier, gilded mirrors, and a wide array of antique books to peruse. The hotel is small, with just three generously spacious rooms, which adds to the exclusive feel of the place. The area of Castello Alto doesn’t provide a whole lot for tourists to do, but it’s not too far from the happening neighbourhood of San Marco and at just 85 Euros a night, you really can’t complain. 5. Locanda la Corte Calle Bressana, Castello 6317 This Locanda La Corte” title=”Locanda la Corte prices and availability” target=”_blank”>lovely hotel boasts 16 spacious rooms, a delightful walled courtyard and outdoor breakfast area, as well as a picturesque view of the gondolas floating by on a small canal below. It’s pretty centrally located within walking distance to the Rialto Bridge and St. Marks, although not too central that you’ll be playing dodge the tourist every time you step out the front door. It’s a bit pricier than some of the other hotels on our list, at a bit over 100 Euros for a double room, but it’s certainly more doable than most hotels you’ll find in this neighbourhood. Author Bio Aileen Pablo is part of the team behind Open Colleges, one of Australia’s leading providers of TAFE courses equivalent and TESOL courses. When not working, Aileen blogs about travel, lifestyle, and beauty tips. She is also often invited as a speaker in Personality Development Seminars in the Philippines. You can find her on Google+. Photographs by Walter Schaerer [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157629879701816″ type=”gallery”] ## Driving Tips When Hiring a Car in South Africa Source: https://travelmemo.com/south-africa/driving-tips-hiring-car-south-africa-gps South Africa is becoming more and more popular as a tourist destination, with many visitors now taking advantage or relatively cheap prices and accommodation. Whilst there you can get the most from your vacation and see much more of this beautiful country if you hire a car. Hiring a car in South Africa is essential because the public transport system is not brilliant in a lot of the cities – although there have been some improvements since the soccer World Cup that took place in 2010. By Alex Hutchinson. With the exception of Cape Town, having a car is a must if you want to get from A to B and see places off the regular tourist trail – but it can be quite daunting driving on the roads there, so make sure that you read all the tips below to using a car in South Africa. Drive on the Left Hand Side of the Road The most important aspect to take note of is the fact that the South African road network rules state that you should drive on the left hand side. This is due to the connections the country has with the British Empire from days gone by, and can take some getting used to if you are traveling from mainland Europe or the United States. One way to help is by using a GPS, and many car hire places will lend you a Garmin GPS device – which will come with lane guidance. If you are planning on taking your own Garmin with you then make sure you have updated it with South African maps – and you can save money on this purchase if you use a Garmin Map Update Discount Code. Don’t Break the Speed Limits A GPS device will also have speed limits programmed into it, but when driving you will probably notice that speed limits are not always adhered to by the locals. However, as a tourist we would advise that you stick to the rules considering you will be unfamiliar with the road layouts and driving styles. South Africa does have speed cameras on some roads and the local police can be very tough in terms of enforcing fines – even if you are only in the country for a couple of weeks. Guidelines to the speed limits are as follows: Suburban Residential Streets – 60 kilometers per hour Larger Urban Roads: 70 to 80 kilometers per hour When on the Open Road: 100 kilometers per hour National Motorways & Highways: 120 kilometers per hour Minibus Taxis Have Different Rules Be aware that there seem to be different un-written rules for minibus taxis when on the road in South Africa. So for example, you can’t turn left at a red traffic light, but taxis can, so don’t blindly follow them if in a traffic queue. Taxi drivers have a special place on the road network in this country, so above all don’t let them pressure you into making a mistake if one is behind you – take your time and drive carefully and safely. Author Bio: Alex Hutchinson writes on GPS and maintains several websites related to helping drivers getting the most from their in-car navigation system. For some of Alex’s more recent articles on this subject please take the time to visit the GPS Navigation DVD website which is where some of his more recent work has been published. ## What to Expect on a Cape Town Safari Source: https://travelmemo.com/south-africa/cape-town-safari-what-to-expect While the so-called ‘Mother City’ is not usually synonymous with game viewing, Cape Town safaris show an entirely different side to the city. Most visitors to the Cape know about the mountain and beaches, but just two hours outside of the city a genuine safari can be experienced for the chance to see lion, cheetah, leopard, rhino and many other species of wildlife. By Rosanna Johnson. Inverdoorn Game Reserve is situated in the heart of the Klein Karoo area, which a dry area that is surprisingly rich in plant, animal and birdlife. Self-drive and guided safaris are both offered as a way to explore the reserve. The Klein Karoo is surrounded by Swartberg Mountains to the north, and the Langeberg and Outeniqua mountains to the south. The area is also home to many small towns such as Ladismith, Calitzdorp, De Rust, Barrydale, Dysselsdorp and Ceres, with diverse cultures dating back to the area’s rich history. Before the first European settlers arrived in the 17th Century, the area was home to the Khoisan people. Today, the area has become a popular travel destination for local and international visitors. 5 Things to Know Before Your Cape Town Safari Keen to try a safari in Cape Town? Here are a few things to keep in mind when planning your safari: When to go – as the area receives a small amount of rainfall, you can do a safari at Inverdoorn Game Reserve any time of year. The summer months, especially between December and February, can bring very high temperatures that may make it a bit uncomfortable to spend hours out in the sun. Sunscreen is essential at all times of the year, even if the weather looks cooler and overcast. What to see – you will see a range of wildlife and birdlife on your safari. If you are on a guided safari, your guide will point out various species. You may want to take a local bird book if you are doing a self-drive safari. Wildlife to be seen includes lion, cheetah, Black rhino, eland, leopard, jackal, Cape clawless otter and many other species, while there are also hundreds of bird species to be seen. What to bring – along with sunscreen, you should also bring a camera and spare battery, a pair of binoculars for spotting game and birdlife, comfortable shoes, a warm jacket for cooler days and comfortable clothing in neutral colours. A water bottle is also a good idea if you are taking a long safari. What not to do – don’t ever attempt to leave your vehicle during the safari, and listen to your guide’s instructions at all times. Dangerous wildlife such as predators and even rhino roam freely within the reserve, and should not be approached under any circumstances. Don’t try and touch or feed any animals you see, and don’t smoke, litter or make excessive noise either. Cellphones should be turned off too. What else to consider – if you want to ensure that you see as much wildlife as possible, you should consider a longer guided safari that includes stayover within the reserve’s accommodation options. This will give you enough time to enjoy your safari, with guided activities offered each day to make the most of your time within the reserve. Get a taste of the rich natural diversity that lies on the doorstep of the Mother City, with plenty to see and do during your safari in Cape Town! Author Bio Rosanna Johnson writes about a wide range of safaris in Cape Town, which provide a wealth of information for visitors planning day tours & sightseeing trips, peninsula tours and a range of additional tours in the Cape and greater South Africa. ## Getting the Full Experience in Lanzarote Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/lanzarote/full-experience-lanzarote In the West travelers from the UK have a rather bad reputation when on holiday, and unfortunately this is often for the large part justified. While there are those of us who break the mold, unfortunately the vast majority of us simply don’t travel well (like some beers) and don’t make the most of our holidays at all. By Nick Ball. The problem is that so many of us have such busy and hectic schedules during the day with work and looking after families, that when we get on holiday all we want to do is lie there. It’s fair enough and surely we have all earned our rest when we get to our holidays – and of course it’s up to you how you travel. But the shame is that we end up spending so much time lying around the pool and not doing anything that we never get to experience what the country has to offer. This is unfortunately particularly true with somewhere like Lanzarote which caters so well to tourists with resorts and with great clubs and restaurants that people never really see the need to go outside their comfort zone and see a little of what else the island has to offer. This then means that while you’re lying around the pool and not traveling outside you could probably be anywhere in the world – and anywhere much cheaper and easier to get to. If you’re going to travel all the way to an island just off the coast of Africa then you really should take the opportunity to explore and to soak in a bit of the culture. Spanish Cuisine First of all this means eating the local food. There are plenty of restaurants on the island that can provide you with traditional Spanish meals such as paella that will be incredibly tasty but also a great opportunity to sample a bit of the local culture. Move away from the tourist strips and see if you can’t find anything more interesting and more traditional elsewhere on the island. Explore the Island You should also take the time to explore Lanzarote and that means looking around more than just the beaches. Lanzarote has a huge amount to offer and if you take the time to look around you’ll likely be amazed by it all. Not only does Lanzarote have incredible volcanic landscape covering most of its surface for instance, but it also has its own desert, its own mountains and even caves. How many other places are there in the world where you can go to a beach, a cave, a mountain and beach all on one holiday? And you were going to stay in the hotel… Ben Kepka, Founder of CulturedKiwi.com, put together the top 18 things to do when visiting Lanzarote. Mingle with the Locals You should also take the time to mingle and to meet some of the locals. This might just mean talking to people in bars and chatting to the waiters and bar staff, but the more you talk and interact the more you’ll get a feel for the place and more genuine experience of the country. They might even be able to recommend you some good places to go and visit on the island. Shopping in local supermarkets and going to some of the suburban areas can also give you a more genuine insight into life in Lanzarote. If you are struggling to do all this while still feeling relaxed then the solution is to try splitting your holiday into parts – do your adventuring and traveling at the start and then leave the last few days to relax and recover around the pool. Relaxing will feel all the more rewarding when you’ve actually been out there earning it too. Nick Ball is a writer and blogger whose latest publication is a Lanzarote Guidebook. The book also contains lists of places where you can rent a car in Lanzarote. ## Guide to Upscale Restaurants in Barcelona Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/guide-upscale-restaurants-barcelona Barcelona is a city that practically revolves around restaurant culture. So many people go to restaurants in Barcelona that the city is saturated with places to go grab a bite to eat. With so many restaurants available, how can you expect to find that extra special place to eat? One way is to eat in a more upscale restaurant. So whether it’s for a special occasion or you’re just living the jet set lifestyle, here are some great luxury restaurants in Barcelona. By Harriet Freeman. ABaC Hotel Restaurant Commendable ABaC hotel restaurant© by ARTEH Hotels It may be a hotel restaurant, but don’t let that fool you, because at ABaC you’re going to discover some of the tastiest food in Barcelona. It’s really no surprise that the food is so good considering that this is a 2 Michelin star restaurant. The food here is very creative including sweet and salty oysters, sea urchin curry, and pickled meringue. Good Value for Money at Saüc Reasonably priced Michelin star lunch© by Ricard Giner Are you looking to eat at an upscale restaurant but don’t have hundreds of pounds to spend for one meal? Saüc is a Michelin star restaurant in the city centre of Barcelona where you can choose from a 3 course lunch menu for only €37 per person. From the cuisine, to the atmosphere and service, you’ll find that Saüc offers one of the best all round dining experiences in Barcelona. Basque Style Lasarte Basque style fine dining© by Jonghyungo The basque region of Spain is known for its prime quality of cuisine and now you can get a taste of that talent in Barcelona. At Lasarte restaurant Basque chef Paolo Casagrande provides guests with cuisine of a luxurious and creative caliber. For instance; Iberian cured ham soup, Ox filet in a foie gras sauce, and lemon peel ice cream with a green apple iced drink and an olive oil cake, are just some of the dishes on offer. With its stylish and cosy interior, you don’t want to miss out on this one. But be careful, there are few tables here to ensure an intimate experience, so make sure you book in advance. Renowned Female Chef at Moments Restaurant Carme Ruscalleda Female Michelin star chef at Moments © by Mandarin Oriental Owned by Carme Ruscalleda, one of the most renowned female chefs in the world (with a total of 5 Michelin stars to her name), Moments provides impressive food in a comfortable atmosphere. The staff are very professional and the head chef Raül Balam frequently makes appearances for guests to personally make sure they are having a great time. If you have any personal food preferences regarding the menus (like you can’t eat seafood or pork) then let the chef know and he’ll rise up to the challenge. Where else can you find a service like that? And there you have it. These are some of the most classy, modern, and luxurious restaurants in the city of Barcelona. © Header image courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Barcelona. ## The Secret to Saving on a Romantic Luxury Break Away Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/romantic-luxury-break-away-deal There’s nothing more relaxing for couples than sneaking a romantic weekend away when time allows. Some couples are lucky enough to be able to afford a weekend away every few month, usually the retired or those without children. But for some of us, working hard to pay the mortgage ties us down and limits our holiday budgets. However, your mortgage doesn’t have to be a stumbling block when it comes to booking a luxury weekend away – in fact, it can very much work in your favour. By Katie Sykes. Home Owners can Benefit from their Property If you are a homeowner, you can easily join a property exchange community to make the most of your mortgage. Joining a property exchange scheme allows you to connect with other home owners, who are looking to travel too. Your fellow home swappers are situated all around the world, so you are bound to find someone who has the perfect place for you to stay in Paris that would like to come and spend the weekend in the UK. For a small registration fee, you can register for an entire year and swap your home as many times as you like. So a visit to Venice, a perfect weekend in Prague and a beautiful Barcelona break could all be yours for just a fraction of the usual cost. You just pay for flights, and the accommodation is free. Live the Luxury Lifestyle Many of the homeowners that are part of a property exchange community are frequent travellers, and often own more than one home. This means that their beautiful holiday homes are lying empty and up for grabs. You can take advantage of this and travel at a time the owner won’t be staying at their property. For absolutely nothing, you could be sipping champagne in a hot tub in Helsinki taking in beautiful views in a property will beat any hotel room you could ever aspire to. What’s more you’ll have the entire place to yourself during your stay so no need to worry about being disturbed by room service, housekeeping or hotel curfews. Being a Part of the Home Swapping Community To make the most of the home swapping community, you need to be an active part of it. In order to be accepted in to the scheme you will need to make sure you have a desirable property to put forward. This can be your own home, and can be anything from a designer studio pad to a country cottage for four right through to a city central apartment. You will need to provide some good quality and enticing photographs on your profile. Fellow home swappers look for good holiday making qualities in a home. It’s important that your home can be a place where they can relax, so keep it clutter free. If you have any quirky, historical or luxury features make sure you mention them. Lots of people would love your feature fireplaces or whirlpool bath; even if they are offering a modern mansion themselves they may be looking for a place to stay that’s completely different to their own property. Getting to know your fellow homeowners before you travel is vital. Property exchange communities allow members to send each other messages and connect on Facebook, as well as giving each other and the properties a rating. This allows everyone on the site to build trust with each other and makes the experience safe and enjoyable. Anyone who swaps their home also needs to sign a professional agreement. Get Ready to Travel If you own your home and think it would make a great holiday location for anyone, then get ready to put it on a home exchange site and start planning your romantic breaks away today. Katie Sykes is a travel writer who has a home in Brighton, UK that she would like to use for a home swap Europe to explore Paris, Rome, and Sicily in the summer. ## Why stay in the Oberoi Udaivilas Luxury Hotel in Udaipur, Rajasthan, India Source: https://travelmemo.com/india/stay-oberoi-udaivilas-luxury-hotel-udaipur-rajasthan-india The royal state of Rajasthan is well known all over the world for its rich cultural heritage, enticing music and dances, grand monuments, colorful fairs and festivals, beautiful pieces of art and of course there is ‘The Palace on Wheel’. Consider staying at the Oberoi Udaivilas when you plan your Rajasthan roundtrip! Enjoy a Royal Holiday in the State of the Royals The royal state has an aura of mysticism and charisma. The magical land of desert along with the grandeur of the place makes it an ideal spot for a holiday. There are a number of luxury hotels in Rajasthan that can make your stay a pleasurable and memorable experience to be cherished for a lifetime. Oberoi Udaivilas Luxury Hotel is one of those names where customer satisfaction is the main aim. They offer various facilities that make your stay worth it. The accommodation is highly luxurious and comfortable. Their suites are well furnished with the latest and the most convenient comfort and technology. They are equipped with all the facilities like telephones, televisions, internet and many more. The adjoined in-suite bathroom is nothing but an added advantage, being fitted with a bath tub and an all-time available facility of hot and cold water. Not only this, the windows and balconies of the rooms open to a mesmerizing view of the city. The hotel’s restaurant is yet another major reason for you to stay here. The excellent quality food served here is simply delicious. Special care is taken that the kitchen area where the food is prepared is kept clean and hygienic all the time. The restaurant serves multiple cuisines that are sure to tantalize your taste buds and keep you craving for more. Along with focusing on the taste, the highly trained team of kitchen professionals and dieticians make it certain that the nutritional value remains intact. And of course, it is the best place to try the local cuisines of the state. Apart from the above, the hotel also offers a number of other amenities that will make your stay enjoyable. The huge swimming pool of the hotel adds to the grandeur and recreation facilities provided. Apart from that there is provision for parking, medical aid, travel assistance and many more that would make your trip comfortable and will be etched to your memory for you to cherish it forever. Shalu Sharma has compiled a comprehensive list of other heritage hotels in India. ## India’s Top 8 Historical Landmarks [with photos] Source: https://travelmemo.com/india/india-top-8-historical-landmarks The country of India is home to a staggering number of historical landmarks, from the Taj Mahal to ancient temples and everything in between. It’s a perfect place to enjoy a luxury vacation, especially given the stellar heritage maharaja palaces around Rajasthan… Reading time 02:04 minutes. With over a billion citizens who call India their home, the country is bursting with vibrant culture, delicious and authentic cuisine and a distinct and truly unique way of life. Tours are often recommended because of the sheer size of the country, as well as the lack of reliable public transportation over long distances. I recommend visiting the following top eight historical landmarks. Landmark City 1. Taj Mahal Agra 2. Red Fort New Delhi 3. Humayun’s Tomb New Delhi 4. Golden Temple Amritsar 5. Govind Devji Temple Jaipur 6. Jantar Mantar Jaipur 7. Ajanta and Ellora caves Northern Maharashtra (Mumbai) 8. Ghats of Varanasi Varanasi 1. Taj Mahal in Agra – arguably India’s most famous building Agra’s Taj Mahal. There can be no denying that this is the most iconic structure in all of India. Majestic Taj Mahal at dawn Built between 1632 and 1653 by order of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal. Be sure to visit this majestic mausoleum made from white marble and semiprecious gems in the heart of the city of Agra. 2. Red Fort in New Delhi This sandstone fort, called Lal Qila by locals, was built in the seventeenth century and remains one of the most popular tourism destinations in the capital city of Delhi. Red Fort in Delhi, India Tour the area during the day but come back at night for the spectacular light and sound show each evening after dark. 3. Humayun’s Tomb in New Delhi This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a magnificent structure in Delhi that greatly resembles the Taj Mahal, although on a slightly less grand scale. Humayun’s Tomb and playing kids The incredible building is intricately decorated both inside and out, and remains in pristine condition. 4. Golden Temple in Amritsar Perhaps one of the most important religious sites for Sikhs is the Golden Temple, a beautiful structure located in the city of Amritsar. The temple is open every hour of every day and is lit up at night in a breathtaking way. Religious Sikhs visit here once in their life to volunteer. 5. Govind Devji Temple in Jaipur This temple is a mecca for followers of Lord Krishna. Located in Jaipur, the Govind Devj Temple is a busy spot full of pilgrims as well as interested visitors wanting to learn more about the religion and history of the Vaishnavites. 6. Jantar Mantar astronomical instruments in Jaipur The Jantar Mantar monument in Rajasthan’s Jaipur boasts nineteen architectural astronomical instruments built by the Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh II, and completed in 1734. It features the world’s largest stone sundial, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 7. Ajanta and Ellora Although some visitors write off these UNESCO World Heritage sites as merely caves, Ajanta and Ellora are certainly worth visiting on any tour. Some of the caves date back over two thousand years, and boast incredible architecture, religious texts and stunning art. Here’s a good guide on how to get there. 8. Ghats of Varanasi Ghats are simply stairs that lead to the water, and in the case in Varanasi they lead directly to the Ganges River. Visit to see the sheer vastness of the steps along the river for miles, where people bathe, relax and pray. And then there are plenty of other attractions on this incredible subcontinent… Heritage maharaja luxury hotels These are my reviews of commendable hotels we stayed at: Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur Deogarh Mahal, Deogarh Samode Palace, Jaipur ## 5 of the Most Luxurious Hotels in Sydney, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/5-most-luxurious-hotels-sydney-australia Sydney is one of the world’s most beautiful cities with a spectacular harbour, iconic Opera House and majestic bridge. So as part of your Australian holiday in Sydney, stay in style in one of the many five-star hotels in the heart of the city. Here’s a collection of five of the most luxurious hotels in Sydney. By Lyndon Barnett. Photographs by Walter Schaerer. InterContinental When Oprah visited Sydney on her Australia tour she choose to stay at the InterContinental. Located moments from Circular Quay, the Botanic Gardens and the Sydney Opera House, this is a beautiful accommodation option. The historic façade has been restored to its former glory and the interior has been re-designed to maximum effect. Hilton An icon of George Street overlooking the Queen Victoria Building, Sydney’s Hilton recently underwent a complete transformation to reveal a truly remarkable hotel. On offer are 577 beautifully-appointed rooms that offer respite from the hustle and bustle of the city below. Sheraton on the Park With a spectacular location on Hyde Park, the Sheraton on the Park is a majestic luxury hotel that offers a beautiful place to stay. Within the complex, there’s a fitness centre, pool, spa and a beauty centre. Four Seasons The Four Seasons provides a comfortable night’s stay near the Sydney’s spectacular waterfront and the historic Rocks district. The facilities are very impressive and include a heated and outdoor pool, spa, fitness centre and a business centre. Marriott Hotel The rooms in the Marriott Hotel boast a stunning outlook over the adjacent Hyde Park and the city skyline. The location is perfectly positioned within walking distance of Sydney’s shopping, culture and business heart. After a busy day sight-seeing, return to the hotel to enjoy a relaxing spa, refreshing swim or a delicious meal in the restaurant. If you have stayed in a luxury hotel in Sydney that you would like to add to the list of most luxurious hotels, please mention it below. About the Author: Lyndon Barnett is a copywriter with Flight Centre. He has travelled independently to 68 countries and extensively throughout Australia. He currently resides in Brisbane, Queensland. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625486910033″ type=”gallery”] ## Top three Caribbean beach holiday destinations Source: https://travelmemo.com/caribbean/caribbean-beach-holiday-destinations Tropical beach paradises don’t come much better than the Caribbean. This sweeping archipelago of more than 7,000 islands and islets is what many people describe as paradise on earth. It’s not hard to see why… Tropical rainforests tumble down to white sand beaches, lapped by crystal clear water. Coral reefs teem with life just off the shore whilst pastel coloured towns jingle with Caribbean music as rich, spicy flavours waft through the air. Maybe our glasses are slightly rose tined – nowhere is perfect – but the landscape and weather are as close to perfect as you’re going to get. Each of the major island groupings has its own identity, culture and history. It is wrong and unjust to lump this entire region together. Because each region, and in fact each island, is unique, you will have a different holiday experience on every one of the Caribbean islands. However, one thing unites every Caribbean holiday: the beach. Here are three of the best bargain holidays you can have in the Caribbean. Barbados Barbados is billed as a luxury and romantic holiday destination and whilst we can honestly say this exotic island is a honeymoon dream come true, it’s also a great destination for family beach holidays too. The water around Barbados’ coastline is gentle and calm, particularly along the west coast, but there is enough wind along the southern coast to enjoy watersports like sailing, kite surfing and windsurfing. The forested and rocky interior is perfect for hiking and mountain biking whilst the colonial capital, Bridgetown is great for shopping, sampling Barbadian food and getting to grips with this welcoming, warm and vibrant culture. If you love to scuba dive then Barbados’ barrier reefs and numerous wrecks are perfect. You’ll get to swim alongside turtles, dolphins and a kaleidoscope of colourful fish. Cuba Cuba is the largest Caribbean island and because of its communist history is radically different to islands like Barbados and St. Lucia. It feels far more Latin American plus, with its historic architecture and classic cars you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time. The coastline is perfect for beach holidays, with the same ubiquitous white sands and azure ocean found elsewhere in the Caribbean. Much of the coastline is sheltered by small off shore islands so it’s great for children. The capital Havana along with regional towns and villages are colourful and picturesque and the architecture is beautiful. This is one of the most culturally exciting Caribbean islands. Cayman Islands The Cayman Islands are perhaps the cream of the crop of Caribbean Islands. They are hard to get to but the destination is worth the long journey. These islands are relatively undeveloped; you can feel a million miles from anywhere and therefore the Caymans offer a true sense of escapism and adventure. They are also the best places in the Caribbean and among the best places in the world to scuba dive. If you don’t believe us check out this article from Scuba Diving magazine. ## Luxurious Travel in Yalta in Ukraine Source: https://travelmemo.com/ukraine/luxurious-travel-yalta-ukraine-crimean-peninsula Yalta in the Ukraine has turned into a modern-day luxurious retreat for travelers looking to escape the doldrums of day-to-day life. Not only will you be drawn in by the beautiful surroundings, but also be tempted to take part in many of the one of the kind activities you’re not likely to do again in this lifetime. Guest post by Andy Johnson. Yalta maintains its exclusivity by being 79km from the nearest airport. You must fly into Simferopol and travel by train or car to arrive at your destination. Yalta’s Scenic Beauty When you arrive in Yalta, the first thing you’ll notice is the beautiful locale. Yalta is situated in the southern portion of Ukraine on the Crimean Peninsula. The city faces the Black Sea and is surrounded by wood covered mountain ranges. Rugged beaches and lush areas of greenery are only a few of the highlights of the unique town. The large Nikitsky Botanical Garden located in Yalta contains an astounding 50,000 species of different plants. There is also a 100acre park which houses the breathtaking Vorontsovsky Palace, an architectural marvel designed by Edward Blore. Historical Significance Besides the natural beauty of Yalta, you’ll be intrigued by the numerous historical monuments and attractions to be found in the area. The most notable aspect of Yalta’s history is that many nobles during the 19th century found respite in Yalta as tuberculosis outbreaks raged in their respective areas. Their mansions and palaces are scattered throughout the city. Famed author Anton Chekhov’s house is on display where he spent five years living in Yalta. The 19th century cathedrals in Yalta are also popular tourist destinations with standouts including the Church of the Immaculate Conception and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Accommodations Boutique hotels and mansion stays are the norm for Yalta travelers. As an example, the Hotel Beliy Orel is a tastefully finished boutique hotel with fine furnishing and individual terraces for each room. A mix of modern and antique décor in the mansion gives the accommodations universal appeal. The Krimsky Hotel is known for offering up the best scenic views of the area. The hotel overlooks Yalta Bay and guests can take in the scenery while relaxing on their own private balcony. Additional amenities include a swimming pool and outdoor bar. For a special occasion, travelers should consider the Vremena Goda. Along with modern décor items, guests can enjoy the stained-glass mosaics located throughout the property. The on-property European spa, sauna, swimming pool and fitness center is perfect for travelers looking to relax after a long day of sightseeing. The top choice for travelers with hefty bank accounts is the Hotel Oreanda. The accommodations provide guests with sea-views along with private access to their club and casino. Eating and Entertainment When looking for authentic Ukrainian food, try out the Hutorok La Mer with standout dishes like borsh, cabbage rolls and dumplings. For breakfast and brunch, travelers may want to try out the cuisine offered through the Apelsin Club. Dishes include quail eggs, salmon sandwiches and turkey salad. For a fusion of Russian and English offerings, the White Villa has plenty of dishes made with the freshest seafood, meats and vegetables in the area. Travelers with special occasions to celebrate will want to make a point to visit Harem. Minced beef dishes, stuffed sweet peppers, seafood soup and grilled bulls’ testicles are just a sampling of the dishes you’ll find on the menu. If you’re feeling adventurous, try out one of the cafés situated in the OvoshnoiRynok market area. Hot soup, delectable sandwiches and unique snacks are the typical fare served in the market area. Whatever your budget, you’ll be able to find accommodations that suit your needs during your Yalta stay. With plenty to see and do, you’ll want to schedule a return trip as soon as you depart. Author Andy Johnson is a frequent traveler to Ukraine and a content creator for Idish.net. ## Milez.biz – Compare Miles of Frequent Flyer Programs Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/miles-frequent-flyer-program Milez.biz allows you to compare flight redemption rates of different frequent flyer programs. Have you ever wondered which frequent flyer program has the best award rates … specifically for the flights you are interested in? Frequent Flyer Miles Lookup Many of our readers are keenly aware of the benefits that can be earned by being diligent miles collectors in frequent flyer programs. In fact, many of us will do crazy things, like mileage runs or sign up for unnecessary credit cards, in order to collect more miles so that we can reach certain status level in our programs! Many of us are even members in multiple programs. While there are many tools and websites out there that will help us maximize how we collect and manage our frequent flyer miles, there aren’t really so many tools that help us spend the miles efficiently, and, let’s face it, some of us have more miles than we will ever spend. According to multiple reports, there are many trillions of miles that are currently unused. If you are wondering what you might be able to do with your unused miles you might be interested in playing around with the new tool at milez.biz. Milez.biz is a very simple award rate calculator, it allows you to type in any two city pairs and it will determine how many miles are needed to redeem a free ticket between the two destinations. Over 40 frequent flyer programs are being tracked currently and more will be added soon. Comparison and usage of award rates is especially interesting if you have a high enough miles balance to “purchase” business or first class flights. These flights are comparatively inexpensive if you look at how much cash would be required to buy these seats. Here are some example routes to destinations that we recently discussed in travelmemo.com: Heathrow to Helsinki Or maybe you’re just trying to get to the north of Finland, Helsinki to Rovaniemi Or a weekend getaway to Toronto from Dallas Or escape the winter in Bali The tool allows you to quickly compare the rate across multiple programs or you can even create a little custom report by filtering the results based on your own program(s). As many programs do not have their own calculator this really makes looking up rates a breeze. No longer do you have to find the rates tables and figure out which zone a certain destination belongs to. If you are in the process of determining which program is best suited for you and are unsure which one to join, you may use the tool to see where you are most likely to earn your dream trip quickly. You are not required to join the program that is most prominent in your home base but you are well advised to join one that will allow you to collect miles as efficiently as possible. So you may look at partners within the big three alliances: Star Alliance, SkyTeam and oneworld. A membership with Star Alliance partner BMI Diamond Club may be more beneficial to you than a membership with United Mileage Plus, it all depends on your travel profile. ## Lapland: Luxurious Dog Sledding, Snow Mobiles and Aurora Borealis Experience Source: https://travelmemo.com/finland/lapland-dog-sledding-snow-mobiles-aurora-borealis-luxurious-experience When snow falls and stays for a while, we call it a winter wonderland. It usually brings with it enormous inconvenience (if you live in Britain), but it’s okay because everything looks nice. There is a place in the world where winter really is a wonderland and a large amount of snow is not inconvenient. It’s also where Santa Claus comes from. It’s Lapland. If you’re considering a luxury winter break, but don’t want to head to the traditional ski resorts, Lapland in northern Scandinavia will impress you. Lapland: A Truly Unique Luxury Experience Husky Sledding Dogs Sleds are used wherever there are inhospitable snowy wastes. In Lapland they are offered to visitors who are curious about this other way of life. Guests can book a single two-hour excursion in which they will meet the dogs – usually Huskies – and learn how they live and work, before experiencing a ride for themselves. The more adventurous guests can book a week long excursion in which they learn how to drive a sleigh, how to care for the dogs pulling it and then head out for a two day trek in the wilderness. A ski chalet is provided as overnight accommodation. Some experience of adventure travel would be an advantage before booking a week long Husky Sled package, while the single, or full-day excursions are both great for families. Aurora Borealis The Northern Lights are a frequent visitor to Northern Finland and one of the best places on Earth to see them is a tiny village close to the Russian boarder called Nellim. Nestled on the shores of Lake Inari, you can lie on the frozen ice and watch the electric green of the Northern Lights dance above you. Adult Adventure Big kids like big toys and with toys ranging from Snowmobiles to snow shoes to play with, doing an activity holiday will be like playing in a wonderland again. Snowmobile safaris will introduce guests to this vital piece of winter-time equipment and they will enjoy driving through the forest trails and over frozen lakes. Many packages offer a well-rounded taste of Finnish life, including the obligatory sauna and ice bath. Guests will be introduced to Reindeers at a Reindeer farm and learn about the important role these animals have played in the Lappish culture over the centuries. They will also learn the basic techniques of cross-country skiing, which is both a mode of transport, as well as a sport in Lapland. Fall in love with cross-country skiing and it will get you into peak physical condition. Bear in mind when booking an adventure holiday in Lapland that you are coming to a sparsely inhabited part of Europe, so expect fun in a relaxed atmosphere. Just for Children Lapland is the home of Santa Claus and he considers it only fair that if you have traveled to the very north of Europe, that he will greet you personally. You may even get a ride on his sleigh. But you must be good, or you might end up cleaning the Reindeer stalls. I hear Dancer and Prancer are particularly fond of naughty children who come to clean. Unique The word ‘unique’, is often used to describe remote parts of the world, but for Lapland, it’s truly and beautifully unique. A stunning spread of blue and white, as far as the eye can see. So, if you fancy a ski chalet break that takes you into a quiet, yet rich culture, consider Lapland. This guest post was contributed by Marie-Paule Graham, a travel writer for Chaletfinder.co.uk where you can find last minute short ski breaks and luxury catered ski chalets throughout Europe and the USA. Photography by Walter Schaerer from travelmemo.com ## HolidayCheck.com: A Quality Travel Review Website Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/holidaycheck-quality-travel-review HolidayCheck.com is a travel review and hotel booking website focusing on up-to-date touristic information. Originating in Germany a few years back, the site boasts many honest and unbiased reviews from discerning European travelers — which adds a unique value to their services. Travel Reviews and Hotel Database HolidayCheck.com‘s database contains over 300,000 hotel properties and 2.2 million hotel reviews, providing users with a rather large selection of detailed options. This said, what is particularly striking is the high-quality reviews themselves. For starters, each review is carefully checked for discrepancies by a staff of 200 employees. Furthermore, the approved posts are online for only a year (or two) before being archived to make room for newer, more relevant reviews. Reviewers’ Profile Pages and Reviews The most valuable difference between HolidayCheck.com’s reviews and leading competitors (such as TripAdvisor) is the comprehensive profile page offered for all reviewers. Profile pages feature the reviewer’s sex, age range, travel style (i.e. single traveler, family traveler, etc.) plus a linked history of their other reviews, a star rating system and even an option for asking them additional questions. Travelers can conveniently select reviews from amongst those that most closely resemble their own travel profile. For example, if you are a family traveling with small children, it would be very valuable to know which hotels feature the best options for kids. These bonus options have been so helpful to my wife and I that on more than one occasion we have even changed our travel itinerary after reading the reviews for suggested properties at HotelCheck.com. On this overview (below) of vacations in Sardinia for example, you can even detect a trend amongst customer reviews. And with one simple click, users can read the actual reviews along with commentary, translation details and proof of booking . Multimedia Review Content – Images and Videos Other content shared by reviewers includes photography and video. These options offer users a closer look at the hotel properties and are unbiased compared to officially authorized hotel photography. Here’s an example of my own opinion of the (excellent) Giardino Mountain Resort in St. Moritz (Swiss Alps). Booking Your Hotel As is usually the case with this type of website, users can book a hotel or resort directly on HotelCheck.com, just as soon as they have decided on the most suitable option. A final helpful feature that this hotel review site offers is price comparisons between leading hotel portals such as Expedia.com, Booking.com or Hotels.com. ## Infographic: ROI in Social Media in Travel Industry Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/infographic-roi-in-social-media-in-travel-industry Understanding the key trends in Social Media in Travel and why the future is mobile. Infographic by SimpliFlying and EyeForTravel. ## Top Tourist Attractions in Toronto, Canada Source: https://travelmemo.com/canada/toronto-top-tourist-attractions-canada We all want a break from our busy and monotonous routine life. Planning for a vacation with family members will surely bust the work stress and will give your children a break from studies. Siting in the lap of nature for a while will help you in getting rid of all tensions and worries of everyday life. Though staycations are in vogue but they are not a good alternative to a traveling vacation. Canada has always been one of the most preferred holiday destinations of the tourists from all over the world. Canada is a vast country which abounds in attractions or destinations that are particularly unique and yet to be explored. Tourist attractions here possess a diversity of interesting places. It comprises of calm and serene villages as well as marvelous modern wonders in towering cities. It is a beautiful amalgamation of new and old. Listed below are a few attractions that must be visited, if you are planning to go to Toronto, Canada for vacations this year. Niagra Falls The beauty of this fall will render you speechless. More than 6 million cu ft water falls over Niagra’s brink per minute. Located on the Niagara River at the southern tip of Ontario, just a short drive from Toronto, these falls are one of the most powerful and famous waterfalls in the world. Niagra falls is three different waterfalls- the Horseshoe Falls, the American Falls and the smaller Bridal Veil Falls, located on the Niagra river, which runs on the border of Canada and the US. You must take ‘Maid of the Mist’ boat to experience the falls up close. Nature lovers from across the world flock to the Niagra Falls. CN Tower It is a 1,815 feet tall free standing structure located in downtown Toronto, from where tourists can take a bird’s view of the whole city. Accessible via exterior high speed elevators which move upwards with the thrilling speed of 360 meters per minute, is an amazing experience especially for children. Whether you are planning to spend your vacations in Canada with friends or family, you must prefer renting short term furnished apartments to hotels. These are more comfortable when you have children with you, who want separate bedrooms and some open space. Moreover, you can cook food of your own choice if you have rented an apartment. Enjoy the splendor of Niagra falls, the food at the towering restaurant situated on CN tower, Little Italy or Greektown on this vacation with your family. Take the street car to the Beaches or enjoy lively quarters such as Queen Street, West Queen West or The Esplanade. During chilly winter months you easily walk the city center via the underground shopping malls of THE PATH. It comprises 21 kilometers of heated zones with 1’200 shops and restaurants, 50 office buildings, six hotels and five subway stations. Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario A few hours’ drive north of Toronto you will find spectacular canoe grounds in the Algonquin Provincial Park. Take to an unforgettable guided three-day canoe trip! ## Best Season to Travel to Asia Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/best-season-travel-asia-india-thailand-singapore-hong-kong Asia is a fascinating wonderland of history, architecture, natural beauty and high-tech modernity, all held together by millions of friendly people. Whether you roam through India, Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, China, Korea or another country, you will find beauty and excitement everywhere you look. Asia covers a vast amount of territory, so the best time to travel will depend quite a bit on the latitude of your location and what you plan for activities. Savings are available throughout the year by watching for specials or, in some cases, using a discount code for even better deals. South Korea For example, a winter visit to South Korea, which, despite its name, is one of the northernmost countries in Asia, will include very cool winters with snow in many locations. Spring brings the most tourists, but fall is an excellent time to visit as well, with the same moderate daytime temperatures (around 9°C/48°F), less rain than springtime and beautiful fall foliage in the country. Indonesia: Jakarta & Bali Indonesia is much farther south, lying almost directly along the equator. For both Jakarta and Bali, the best time to visit is in the summer, because this is typically the driest season. Between May and early October visitors will find daytime temperatures around 32°C/89°F with lower humidity than the rest of the year. The rainy season begins in mid-October and lasts into April, and weather during those times can interfere with some outside sightseeing. China: Hong Kong & Beijing China is located between the two, and is such a vast land that experiences can vary widely. For example, Hong Kong lies along the southern coast and has a multi-cultural history because of its status as a British protectorate for so many years. Consistently ranked as one of the Top 10 Destinations by various travel websites and magazines, Hong Kong offers shopping, dining, history and attractions to suit any desire. The climate is sub-tropical, with the bulk of pleasure travelers visiting between mid-October and mid-April, when the daytime temperature ranges from 75°F/24°C to 85°F/29°C. Beijing, on the other hand, is much farther north and also more isolated, so it exudes Chinese culture rather than the more international flavor of Hong Kong. Winter temperatures can be quite cold, dropping to around -20°C/-4°F during the night. The windy spring can bring sandstorms, so the best time to visit here is late summer and early fall. September and October offer moderate daytime temperatures around 16°C/60°F, shorter lines for attractions, and little rain and wind. Singapore Singapore is a popular hub destination for travelers on their way to and from Australia. It’s also a popular entry destination for Europeans despite fierce competition from Hong Kong. Some recent new venues such as the Marina Bay Sands Casino Hotel and its spectacular Sands Skypark Pool or the Formula 1 race added even more to the destination’s attraction. The months around year’s end offer agreable temperatures with high humidity, though. Nepal, Bhutan, Malaysia, Bangladesh Smaller countries like Nepal, Bhutan, Malaysia and Bangladesh offer unique adventures to those who prefer off-the-beaten-track experiences. While they may not have the big-city lights of Hong Kong or New Delhi, these Asian countries offer unique travel destinations, gorgeous scenery, and a chance to gain a better understanding of the culture because you’re traveling at a slower pace. Thailand Thailand is the recommended entry point for ‘Asia beginners’. It offers a well tested touristic infrastructure and people usually are used to tourists. Internet connections are ubiquitous. The season around November/December offers very agreable temperatures for outdoor activities. Diving is also very recommendable! The sea around Phi Phi Island or the Similan Islands offers stunning underwater experiences with manta rays and whale sharks. Or mating leopard sharks, anyone? Vietnam Vietnam is a communist country and much less touristic. That in itself is a little adventure, of course… The countryside is very attractive and the coasts boast spectacular views. But be aware that people usually won’t know English or any other language the rest of us would speak, for that matter. Also here, the season around New Year offers gorgeous weather conditions, albeit with a bit hot temperatures around lunch time. E.g. you wouldn’t want to play a round of golf around noon despite their great golf courses… India India in itself is yet another large country sometimes called sub-continent… Rajasthan lends itself perfectly for India beginners tours. Take an unforgettable and jaw dropping maharaja palace round trip! ‘Awesome experience’ would be a wild understatement… The best season is January through March. If you don’t mind dry heat (and state-of-the-art air conditioned SUVs) you may as well try April and even May. They are way less busy and you enjoy tourist attractions on your own. Maldives The Maldives boast the nicest weather from November through to May. The summer time can be good, too, but rain and storms are much more frequent due to the wet South-West monsoon called ‘Hulhangu’ (May through November). Especially divers enjoy one of the World’s most impressive dive sites! Asia is a destination that should be on everyone’s itinerary because no matter what type of travel you prefer, one of the countries and cities in Asia will give you an unforgettable adventure holiday. ## Giardino Mountain – new design hotel in the Swiss Alps in Saint Moritz Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/giardino-mountain-design-hotel-swiss-alps-saint-moritz-campfer In December 2011 the new 5 star hotel Giardino Mountain in Campfer next to Saint Moritz, Switzerland, opened its doors to discerning guests. Surrounded by majestic mountains, the Giardino Mountain resort boasts alpine chic, a generous spa, luxuriously equipped rooms with a view and excuisite cuisine in three different restaurants. Guests choose from countless winter sports activities such as skiing, cross-country skiing, winter polo, curling or during summer time hiking, golf, sailing, paragliding, surfing or kite surfing. Giardino Mountain Luxury Resort in Swiss Alps’ Saint Moritz You’ll find a detailed review on our German travel blog reisememo.ch. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157628373698545″ type=”gallery”] The spectacular lighting is by the Dutch Brand van Egmond Studio. Check out the booking information and rates of Giardino Mountain resort Update 19.12.2012: Giardino Mountain now also with Design Hotels Congratulations on making it as a Design Hotel! Well done! ## Flying High in Luxury: Traveling in Style Source: https://travelmemo.com/peru/flying-high-luxury-traveling-style The luxury travel industry is always changing to reflect people’s needs and desires when it comes to their global travels. Read on to learn how to travel in style with resources like a jet charter and personal guides. Charter a Jet! One option for a truly luxurious travel experience is to use a jet charter. You can schedule a flight between any two airports in the world, even including smaller regional airports that may be closer to where you live, and only you and your travel companions are on the plane. This affords you more privacy and eliminates a lot of the traditional hassles that accompanies air travel, such as the hassles of security and dealing with crowded airports. This gives you all the conveniences of having a private jet, but none of the upkeep associated with it. Vacations with a Guide Another growing trend is a return to vacations with a guide. However, these guided tours are far from the standard vacations with the masses led by a tour guide on a bus. These are much smaller groups in far flung locations, and often the itinerary is created in large part by the travelers. The goal is that it is your dream vacation, with a guide to help enhance the experience. The Andean Experience offers customized private trips all over the beautiful country of Peru. The trips can go to virtually any combination of cities and have a guide to accompany you. In general, the trends for luxury vacations focus on providing the traveler with a unique, customized experience. The economy has made people hesitant to spend money, but when they do they want it to be a special and memorable experience. Both of these trends discussed above focus on customizing the travel experience to suit the unique needs of the individual traveler. Trends come and go, but the important thing is that you have a memorable and fun vacation. With all of the options and the increasing ability to customize your trip, there is no reason that you should not be able to have what you consider to be a perfect vacation. Hopefully these trends will get you thinking and inspire you to plan your next unforgettable trip. ## Malta and Gozo – Flight Deals by dealchecker Source: https://travelmemo.com/malta/malta-gozo-flight-deals-dealchecker This post was inspired by travel comparison website dealchecker and their flights to Malta / Gozo. Thanks Bettina for your photographs! Malta Malta is located South of Sicily in the Mediterranean Sea. Malta’s capital Valletta not only offers winter sun holidays but also UNESCO World Heritage venues! The Grandmaster’s Palace, still the seat of the Maltese government, was built in 1571 and it’s decked out in grand style. Sumptuous furnishings, beautiful paintings and even a huge collection of armor and weapons are on show. Seek out the popular Throne Room or the Tapestry Chamber for its stunning tropical tapestries. The Upper Barrakka Gardens or St John’s Co-Cathedral from 1578 are further points of interest as described on dealchecker’s blog. Malta, for some reason, is renowned for its English classes. Lot’s of students prefer to improve their language skills in the nicely tempered South of Europe. Leaving behind the relatively small city you will find seven caves on the southern coast of the island. Take a trip there on a traditional boat. The water is stunningly blue and the caves are imposing and beautiful. A must for any visitor to the island. Check out dealchecker’s flights to Malta. Gozo Island near Malta You may also take to the nearby island Gozo for rough and picturesque coastlines. Photographs by Bettina Baumgartner, Switzerland, thanks a lot! ## Thermal Bath & Spa, Wellness in Zurich’s Hürlimann Brewery Areal Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/thermal-bath-spa-hurlimann-brewery-zurich Today we did the Irish-Roman Spa Ritual in the Thermal Bath & Spa in Zurich. It is a beautiful wellness oasis built right in the middle of the city in the former Hürlimann brewery building. It was marvelous! Wellness high above the roofs of Zurich The Thermal Bath & Spa Zürich presents itself in the best light and raises expectations stone vaults, furnished simply but in great style, give it a trendy, even faintly oriental, look thanks to a collection of chandeliers. Thermal bath water worlds Bathing is in giant wooden vats filled with hot water from the “Aqui” spring with its valuable mineral content. Different massage jets , bubble mats , massage stations , whirlpools , a steam room , emerald bath , and Kneipp zone provide variety. The pool on the roof deck The veritable highlight is the rooftop thermal pool that let us enjoy a magnificent view of Zurich. A trendy lounge on the top floor invites guests to linger. It offers delicious tidbits and sweets that not only look healthy but also taste great! We went for the wine, naturally; it’s supposed to be very good for you after all… Thermal Bath & rooftop pool with a view Spa Ritual There is a small extra charge for the Irish-Roman spa ritual, but it is well worth it. The circuit takes about two hours and promises the ultimate in relaxation! It starts with warming up the body in a steam bath. Next, lather up with a sea buckthorn peel that scrubs away dead skin cells. After a shower you enter the hot herbal steam bath to complete the body cleansing and detoxification. Next, luxuriate in more warm baths (Roman bath, kinotherapeutic bath) with various massage jets and bubble mats. In between, you relax on the warmed platform lounges and when it is all over, once again you can linger in the beautiful spa lounge, over fine snacks, fruited drinks or a small glass of Prosecco for the crowning final touch to your stay. You do have to know how to relax just a bit ;-) Rooftop pool lounge-restaurant in Thermal Bath & Spa More pictures of the Thermal Bath & Spa, Zurich: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625962426839″ type=”gallery”] Prices and hours of operation can be found on the Thermal Bath homepage. Update June 6.2013: Thermal spring now with B2 Boutique Hotel & Spa On March 1, 2012, for the first time the B2 Boutique Hotel & Spa belonging to the Thermal Bath also opened its doors in the Hürlimann Areal. Check rates and availability here. The design succeeds at a very attractive level with a blend of modern infrastructure and borrowed historical elements in the form of old brewery pumps, valves and cooling towers. The suites are spectacular split-floor duplex apartments. Here, too, references to the old industrial building combine comfortably with the elegant furniture and bold colors. Highly accomplished! A highlight is the librarystocked with thousands of hand-picked books bought from antique shops. We will drop in another time for a more detailed review. For starters, here are a few smartphone pix… Lobby and library with restaurant at the B2 boutique hotel [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157633963182258″ type=”gallery”] ## Photo Poker – When to take a photograph and when to ask first Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/photo-poker-when-not-ask-people-photography-puglia-italy As a photographer more often than not you ask yourself whether you should grab that special moment and take the photograph right away or you better ask first and then try to catch up with the opportunity now gone. It’s pretty much a poker game at times. Here’s how I try to seize those special moments without embarrassing people. In October 2011 we went on a splendid round trip in Puglia, Italy. Masseria Cimino was our first country house experience. Given the picturesque setup there was a British photographer team shooting scenes for an edition of Condé Nast Wedding. Masseria Cimino Photo Shooting At this occasion I found it more thoughtful to ask first whether I could also take a photo or two. So I went up to the photographer and asked him. He sent me over to the model to ask her. The model sent me over to the producer to ask her. The producer said that it was alright as long as I didn’t Tweet the photos. So, please, don’t Tweet ;-) Ostuni Photo Shooting Funny enough, the day after we found the same team during our stay at the white town Ostuni. Not shy anymore, this time around I didn’t ask permission for a little take of my own… Sightseeing in Borgo Egnazia Borgo Egnazia is a beautiful resort. Since it is located only a few minutes from Masseria Cimino we thought we give it a try and check it out. Most of the time Puglia’s resorts and masserie are hidden away behind a closed gate. We rang and got the usual unfriendly sounding ‘chi é?’ who is it? We said that we were tourist looking around for nice places. Opens the gate without further ado. The place looks promising right from the beginning so I thought that in this round of poker I take a few shots before we make it to the reception and they forbid to take pictures… But no, lively concierge Rosita was happy to show us around! Maybe I should add that October is just after the summer season so she must not have been overly busy ;-) Please find our photo essay on Borgo Egnazia here. Taking photos at Masseria Bagnara Same as Borgo Egnazia we didn’t stay at Masseria Bagnara but we were brave enough to venture past the iron gate. Okay, here I’ve got to add that we had heard from several people that Masseria Bagnara was quite something. And since the gate was open maybe we were not even that brave after all. Anyway, in this photo gamble once again I found it appropriate to ask for permission for my epic photographer’s session… And guess what, the proprietor was thrilled to show us around, proudly. And yes, he has all reason to be proud. He was so keen on getting on our travel blog that he invited us for an Italian style luncheon. Good thing we didn’t have much plans for that day. At 5 pm he was done with us ;-) If you are into food you may want to check our post about the Italian style luncheon. What’s your own take? When do you go ahead and shoot and when do you ask first? I don’t think I could have had these shots in Marrakesh had I asked first… A slightly different Italian poker experience can be accessed here. Please visit our partner’s site PartyPoker Italy. ## Top Round Trips For Couples by Cheap Car Hire Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/cheap-rental-car-hire-top-round-trips-couple Driving holidays are ideal for couples, allowing individuals to explore their country of choice without being restricted to one location. And if you’re thinking about getting away this year, then a round trip could be perfect. Check out these options! If you’re looking to get away with your significant other then there are some great trips that you can make by rental car. With a rise of ‘Gap Years’ for adults there are some fantastic opportunities for like-minded couples to get away and make a difference on projects throughout the world. With a larger number of people wanting to give something back to the world, gap year projects can be ideal for couples. The name is misleading as projects often last between three and six weeks, and with more companies looking at such holidays as a way for employee personal growth, you may find taking time off work easier than you think. Popular projects that can be enjoyed are conservation trips in Australia or South America, teaching children in India or working on an Africa project such as building a school or creating fresh water wells in villages. Such trips can be a great way for couples to bond whilst also doing something of real value and can offer an experience of a lifetime. If you simply want to go on a holiday, then some of the best ideas are to use a car hire broker such as Car Hire and experience a round trip, exploring as you go. The flexibility of having a car means that you can move at your own pace rather than being rushed and rallied on a tour or stuck in one place at a resort. Europe has some great driving tours due to the variety of culture and scenery, which is nestled, into this one continent, and you’ll find the perfect retreat for you and your loved one. If you want to take in several countries then you could take in Switzerland, France and Italy on The Grand Tour. Starting in Geneva you can head to France passing Chamonix, traversing through Mont-Blanc’s seven-mile tunnel and enjoying the stunning sights of Florence before flying home. If you’re driving from the UK then you can use the Calais ferry to your advantage and travel the 160-mile route along the Cote d’Opale and back. On this round trip you’ll be able to enjoy sights of the River Canche, seafood dining at Etaples and Hesdin’s beautiful Spanish inspired architecture. Another great round trip is the 800-mile journey from Bergen to Oslo and back. If you’ve ever wanted to immerse yourself in beautiful Norway then this trip is for you and you’ll discover fjords, elk and rolling pastureland. Away from Europe, there is a great skiing round trip to enjoy in America if you’re a little adventuresome. Combining a two-week winter sports trip in Telluride, you can drive to and from the location from Denver, offering beautiful wintery scenes of Colorado Springs or Pueblo. If you want to do a little more than visit one resort, then taking a couples round trip is ideal. And whether you’re heading out on your own or joining a project, such holidays will offer you a lifetime of memories. ## Top-3 Rankings of Hotels and Masseria Country Houses in Puglia, Italy Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/top-3-rankings-hotels-masseria-country-houses-puglia-italy During our two-week Puglia roundtrip we stayed at wonderful country houses (Masseria Cimino, Masseria Le Fabriche, Masseria Fumarola) and stylish hotels (La Sommità Relais, Acaya Golf Resort, Histó Relais). On our way in-between we also visited Borgo Egnazia Resort and Masseria Bagnara but we didn’t stay there overnight. Therefore they make it only to some of our unstructured list of rankings. (You do have to discuss something at lunch time, don’t you? We like to compile our little ratings as a holiday review during the lengthy yet tasty Italian luncheons…) Best overall hotel experience Now, we start off with a tough one since we’re comparing small and large resort and rural country house style hotels. But still, here we go… La Sommità Relais in Ostuni offers the most complete hosting experience around Masseria Cimino near Fasano has the best package for discerning golfers Histó Relais has the best spa facilities and the most generous rooms. And probably the most engaged room maid ;-) Best hotel restaurants La Sommità Relais offers the most refined cuisine and best food presentation Masseria Bagnara boasts the most tasty locally inspired Italian food in classy setup Masseria Cimino sports the best rural Italian style buffet We didn’t eat in all of the hotel’s restaurants since some closed their restaurants due to off-season low volumes. Best breakfast buffet La Sommità Relais has the most varied and tasty breakfast options Histó Relais has the best selection of fruits Masseria Cimino has the best cheese and ricotta selection Overall we were positively surprised by the breakfast buffets in all hotels and masserias. More basic Italian agriturismo hotels sometimes offer just a reduced selection of bakery along with marmelade and butter. It still doesn’t compare with the rich choice of bread and juices you enjoy in Austria or Switzerland, but then again the ham and fruits are exceptionally good in Italy. Best hotel bar Borgo Egnazia Resort offers the most generous and stylish hangout for a typical Crodino Masseria Cimino has the most atmospheric bar setup with their signature illuminated bottles. They also happen to offer Puglia’s best Taralli (small round bakery as also served at Borgo Egnazia) Masseria Bagnara‘s bar sports sleek design and a cosy lounge Most attentive hotel manager Alessandro Pagano from Masseria Bagnara was most thoughtful in presenting his services Laura Stoppani from La Sommità Relais was very present during our stay Alessia Perrucci from Masseria Le Fabriche had us personally taste the wine from her own vineyard Alessandro Pagano, proprietor of Masseria Bagnara, talking to Katja Best reception and check-in La Sommità Relais in Ostuni easily makes the top of the list: most attentive, most helpful, most present, most friendly Acaya Golf Resort Masseria Le Fabriche Overall we were a bit disappointed with the reception procedures. When you arrive at a Masseria’s closed gate you have to ring a bell. Usually there’s only one. Sometimes there’s two with no names on it. I assume the standard guessing is to start with the one on top… Anyway, after a few seconds you usually get a relatively snubbing “chi é?!” as in ‘who is it?!’ via the speaker system. You say who you are, i.e. explain that you would like to become a customer, and, without further ado, off goes the little magic that finally opens the door. From there you may or may not receive a somewhat warmer welcome. It’s not exactly the experience you long for after driving in the hectic South Italian style traffic. BTW, I recommend you hire the smallest car possible given the amount of luggage you bring or you may literally get stuck in the narrow streets of the medieval cities… Best outdoor facilities All hotels and resorts sport grand patios, terraces, loungers and what not. They all rank gracefully in this category, no moaning here! Masseria Fumarola stands out with varied patios, terraces, niches and a fine pool Masseria Cimino’s patio and pool fit in nicely in a rural setup next to the golf course Despite it’s urban setting La Sommità Relais offers different pleasant patios with a view Best internet access Acaya Golf Resort was the only hotel to provide wifi internet access in the room, it comes at a fee Masseria Cimino and Relais Histó offer free wifi internet access in the lounge We are aware that we might not be the most representative travelers around, yet overall on this trip we had a bit of a hard time to keep our blog up to date. Wifi access doesn’t seem to be a widely accepted concept in Puglia yet. If we managed to connect at all the speed was not always up to par with our expectations. Bring your ethernet cable along, it helped us get the best connectivity experience… Largest hotel safe Masseria Fumarola has a large and simple wooden closet with a numbered lock integrated in the wall. Obvious to handle and most effective. Easily the largest safe around. “Natural” wooden hotel safe at Masseria Fumarola All the other hotels offered a more or less useful safe. Only La Sommità Relais’ safe was too small for our little netbooks. Mind you, a MacBook Air REALLY isn’t the largest typewriter around… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627908430730″ type=”gallery”] If you care about more details check out our itinerary for a two week Puglia roundtrip. It allows for easy driving with just small daily distances and yet a lot of spectacular landscapes, picturesque little towns and excellent (!) restaurants… ## Masseria Fumarola, Martina Franca in Puglia Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/masseria-fumarola-hotel-martina-franca-puglia Masseria Fumarola is a rural trulli style guest house which perfectly combines the charm of a traditional 19th century Puglian farmhouse with the service and amenities of a modern hotel. Situated just outside the town of Martina Franca, Masseria Fumarola is the perfect base for those eager to explore the landscapes or cities nearby, experiencing the age-old traditions and the romantic appeal of the trulli, the traditional bee-hive shaped dwellings, typical symbol of Puglia. But, of course, you may as well just hang out by the pool… Masseria Fumarola in Puglia, Italy Masseria Fumarola is a wonderful Puglia country resort offering authentic trulli accommodation. The iconic stone buildings of the structure are from the 18th century. Situated in a calm setting surrounded by characteristic olive trees you will enjoy tranquility on the beautiful grounds. The masseria offers numerous outdoor lounges and patios to relax. And the fabulous swimming pool is surrounded by chestnut, cactus and olive trees. And the usual loungers with sun screen. It really is a oasis of calm out in the nature. Even the masseria’s house cat ‘Francesco’ feels at ease with the hotel guests. He followed us wherever we went. Okay, we also were the only guests as mid October is just after the best season. Also the reception and main building offers some nice and comfortable spots. With the colder season arriving the fireplace will add to the warm atmosphere. Breakfast is served here and WiFi internet access is available, too. Rooms at Masseria Fumarola Masseria Fumarola’s bedrooms, suites and apartments are characterized by trulli style roofs, exposed stone walls and massive fireplaces. Wooden closets and decor add to the rural atmosphere. Even the safe was quite roomy… Since we couldn’t find a ‘usual’ safe, we helped ourselves with a ‘natural’ one, i.e. a wooden closet with a combination lock :-) This time around we didn’t need to lock away the SLR camera but locked away the whole camera bag instead. Including two laptop typewriters and much more. One of three available shelf boards still remained empty! Should have rented that out to other hotel guests. But right, we were the only guests at the time… Way nicer than figuring out the usually small hotel safes and their more or less high tech number combinations. The SLR camera usually fits in only when turning, lifting, folding and squeezing it halfway around while putting it into the safe. That’s after removing flash and tripod first, of course… It was our first stay in a trulli style suite and we enjoyed it a lot. However, it might get pretty cold in winter since the trulli are not insulated and are rather supposed to protect from the prohibitive summer heat. But after turning on the heating we felt comfortable after a while. The next step would have included using the fireplace. We assumed that in winter you can still warm up these massive stone walls. Not sure about the windows and doors, though, there was quite some cold air sifting through… Restaurant at Masseria Fumarola Unfortunately we did not eat at Masseria Fumarola’s restaurant since we were the only guests (mid of October is off-season). But the breakfast was delicious and the buffet was prepared with love. It was all cosy to have breakfast in the ancient stable which now is wonderfully converted into a refined restaurant. Oh, and before we forget, they serve the best ricotta-chocolate-cake we ever had! Please find some more impressions on our Flickr photo gallery: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627781346479″ type=”gallery”] And if you wonder, make sure to check their prices and find more photographs. ## Relais Histò Culti San Pietro sul Mar Piccolo, Puglia Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/relais-histo-culti-san-pietro-puglia-italy Built on a former Masseria that housed an abbey dating back to the first century, this retreat offers 46 stunning rooms and suites around a few courtyards and a spa with its two pools. The showers are the most generous around ;-) Relais Histó San Pietro in Puglia The Relais Histò San Pietro sul Mar Piccolo near Taranto is an incredibly pretty luxury hotel. The whole stone structure with its patios, the lemon trees and even a little church, make Relais Histò San Pietro a great escape. Lounge at Relais Histò Culti The relais also features a very stylish spa and a seasonal outdoor pool. The spa is pampering its guests with sound decor in the steam bath, a sauna with a view of the sunset, hot pools with massage water jets as well as a Trulli style ‘oven’ to chill out in a warm setup during the cold off-season months. Both sauna and spa come at a fee. Outdoor Pool at Relais Histò Rooms at Relais Histò San Pietro Relais Histò San Pietro sul Mar Piccolo offers 46 accommodations either with ocean-, courtyard-, or garden-view. The rooms and suites of this historic hotel meet state of the art modern comforts. The furnishings are sleek and stylish: spacious marble bathrooms, massive beds, delicate leather armchairs and steel stairs make for a luxurious setup. We stayed at a loft suite with a bedroom and bathroom in the upper floor and a huge living room on the ground floor with yet another bathroom… This one comes with the most generous shower around. Large, sleek, three different showers, no spilling. Well done! Gourmet Restaurant at Relais Histò San Pietro The resort has its own gourmet restaurant, tucked inside the aged olive mill. They offer traditional and regional dishes. We did not eat at the restaurant and can not personally judge the quality. But the breakfast buffet was delicious. The pickled plums are a must-try! Restaurant in the Relais Histò Culti Get some more impressions from our Flickr photo set or from Relais Histó’s official website. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627775421073″ type=”gallery”] Check their rates and availabilities here. ## Luncheon in Italian Country House Masseria Bagnara Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/appetizing-luncheon-italian-country-house-masseria-bagnara-puglia We got lucky when proprietor Alessandro Pagano invited us to try a five course luncheon at his country house Masseria Bagnara. Chef Angela Pagano and her staff offered the finest of the locally inspired cuisine. Masseria Bagnara Entry courses (primo piatto) After some fried zucchini and a mozzarella cheese on its bed of fresh tomato (like in REAL tomatoes…) you are ready for the first of two entry courses (no further comments, please…): You start off with pasta “Calamarata” on rucola, tomatoes and ricotta. As often times in the Italian cuisine the ingredients are not complicated to compile but since they are of excellent quality the plate ends up being very tasty. Actually so much so that you better watch out for the quantity you want to eat since there are still a few courses to go… The second entry is a pasta al forno (lasagne) with coppa (kind of ham), zucchini vegetable and a sauce that makes you feel in heaven. If it doesn’t come across in the photographs I’m happy to repeat in written form: this plate is also mouth watering and you long for the full BLECH that must have sit in the oven. But then again, as we all know by now, this was only the second starter after the two amuse-bouche that we enjoyed for starters. Bear with me for another moment… By this point in time you feel somewhat dizzy from so many overwhelming tastes, the very friendly staff and potentially also from the local wine. Puglia may be better known for its wine from the Salento region, but the local wines from a bit further up Northwest are equally good and we opted for a Negroamaro from Maruggio, as recommended by the waitress who actually comes from that very region. As it turned out we never regretted the choice… In between the courses not only the waiters were helpful to explain the dishes but also Alessandro and his sister-in-law Annamaria made for a very personal luncheon experience. And since we were there off-season even receptionist Francesca came over for a chat on masserias of the region (refurbished country houses). Main course (secondo piatto) And then, tataaa, our palates were ready for the main course. A pork fillet along with a ‘mille feuille’ of potatoes and wrapped legumes was the highlight of the day. Dessert Well, until dessert was served, anyway. I guess you would need to call those “bignè” (cream puff) final culmination or highlight of the highlight or something along those lines? Despite the fact that by now, physically speaking, you shouldn’t eat anymore or your personal trainer will have a serious talk with you (actually that point may already have passed after the first entry, but hell, it’s simply too tasty and who’s got a personal trainer anyway…), so despite the sheer masses of served delicacies, strangely enough, the dessert still fits in nicely! But yes, given the amount of food even Alessandro whispered an Italian ‘mamma mia!’ ;-) [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627872330890″ type=”gallery”] ## Masseria Le Fabriche in Puglia, Italy Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/masseria-le-fabriche-puglia-italy Masseria Le Fabriche is a newly restored 18th century country manor, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. It’s only a 10-minutes drive from the coast of the Ionic see and makes for a splendid stay in Italy’s Southern region of Puglia. Masseria Le Fabriche in Maruggio, Puglia The Masseria style country house is located in a panoramic position overlooking the landscape with olive trees, vineyards and the Ionic sea. Masseria Le Fabriche is split into two parts; there is the rural main building, where you will find the reception, lobby, restaurant and different lounges and then there are the hotel rooms in a more contemporary setup and stylish design. The masseria’s main building is decorated with a passion for details. The moment you enter you feel at home. And the more you walk around the more details you will discover. We didn’t eat at the hotel since we were the only guests (October is definitely off-season for travelling in Puglia!). But the breakfast buffet offered a variety of delicious Italian cakes and specialities from the region. The nuts cake was exceptionally good but also the one made of apples was excellent. A very good restaurant which was recommended by the staff at the masseria is the Osteria (small local style restaurant) in Monacizzo. The hosts are very friendly and we enjoyed the typical simple yet tasty Puglian cuisine. Of course it helps if you speak a word or two of Italian… Suites at Masseria Le Fabriche Le Fabriche offers 18 comfortable and very stylish Junior Suites. All suites at Masseria Le Fabriche sport Trani marble floors and a contemporary, refined design. The shower is especially generous and as functional as you rarely find in hotels (does your floor also spill all the time in hotel rooms?). The suites are located about 80 meters from the main building and allow guests to maintain their privacy. Every suite has its own terrace overlooking the landscape. Here again we were taken by the warm atmosphere despite the very simple yet stylish furnishing. Masseria Le Fabriche’s wine Host and owner of the beautiful agriturismo is Alessia Perrucci, a charismatic woman, who currently is also the president of the Association “Donne del Vino di Puglia”. She produces her own olive oil and sells her own wine “Le Fabriche”. Alessia personally had us for a wine and olive oil tasting, which we enjoyed very much. She is very savvy about winegrowing and openly shares the history of the site with you. Get some more impressions on the masseria: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627893536216″ type=”gallery”] Check out prices and availability of Masseria Le Fabriche here. Thanks Alessia and your staff for having us! ## Masseria Bagnara Resort and Spa in Lizzano, Puglia, Italy Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/masseria-bagnara-resort-spa-lizzano-puglia-italy The Masseria Bagnara Resort and Spa is a strikingly renovated former farmhouse now serving as luxury hotel with modern design and an outdoor pool in the countryside of Lizzano in Italy’s Southern Region of Puglia. The Ionian Sea is located just 800 meters away. Masseria Bagnara in Lizzano, Puglia At the Masseria Bagnara you will find sleek contemporary design with an original interpretation of the character and the history of an old masseria, a former peasant house. Immersed in the natural surrounding, the resort offers a delightful and exclusive stay. We didn’t live here ourselves this time around, but we visited the place on our journey from Masseria Le Fabriche near Maruggio to the Histó Relais Hotel near Taranto. The pool and the other amenities looked very enticing, though… Restaurant at Masseria Bagnara in Lizzano, Puglia The main characteristics of Masseria Bagnara’s restaurant are high-quality ingredients and freshness, as well as the contemporary and refined decor. The rural structure with its characteristic white wall and local tufa arches reflects the site’s history and makes for an atmospheric dinner. If you want to really stretch the limit you may as well order a private candlelight dinner in one of the two Trullis… Please find more details on Masseria Bagnara’s website. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627872330890″ type=”gallery”] ## DoubleTree by Hilton Acaya Golf Resort, Puglia, Italy Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/acaya-golf-resort-puglia-italy The DoubleTree by Hilton Acaya Golf Resort is located near Lecce, in the splendid Salento district of Southern Italy in Puglia. The golf resort stretches across almost 300 acres of pristine countryside and offers 18 holes of challenging golf play! Check out some of our golf photography! Acaya Golf Resort – Doubletree by Hilton The Acaya Golf Resort is situated near Lecce in the Southern Italian region of Puglia. It features contemporary American style décor and modern conveniences, along with an exotic Mediterranean location and recreational amenities, mainly an extensive championship 18-hole golf course including a rural Masseria style club house. Check out their rates and availabilities here. Amenities at the Doubletree by Hilton Acaya Golf Resort Guests at the Acaya Golf Resort hotel enjoy different amenities such as a sparkling outdoor pool in a vast central courtyard as well as a heated indoor pool and whirlpool. There is also a private beach on the Adriatic Sea just 5 minutes from the Doubletree Hotel. But since we were there off-season, i.e. in October 2011, we did not have the chance to go to the private beach. We still went to the sea by rental car. The water was pretty ‘refreshing’ and we didn’t stay long. Acaya Golf Course Acaya Golf is one of the finest golf courses in Italy. A broad panorama and a wonderful variety of holes will keep you entertained from the 1st to the 18th hole. Some come with water hazards, others with desert type bushes in the way. At times also the wind may play a role thus adding to the challenge of reaching the fairways. Respectable carry distances are required on some holes, on others you better play all straight or thick grass will give you a new challenge… It’s still great fun to play this golf course since it offers an awesome view and well maintained greens and fairways. Official website of DoubleTree by Hilton Acaya Golf Resort near Lecce. Dinner in the Acaya Region We chose the Acaya Golf Resort mainly for its golf course. We are more into small boutique hotels than large resorts, hence we opted for dinner in a nearby restaurant. There are a few nice places in San Cataldo, as we happened to discover the morning of our departure… Instead we drove in the opposite direction into the Acaya village where we had a nice authentic and rural dinner at Trattoria Nonno Pici. ## Relais La Sommità Hotel in Ostuni, Puglia Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/la-sommita-relais-hotel-ostuni-puglia The Hotel “La Sommità” is a historic 16th century residence. The hotel sits at the top of the old town of Ostuni, also known as the “white city” in Puglia. The tasty food is served in an astounding decor and the hotel bed is easily the most comfortable one in the world! Check out this travelogue for some impressions… La Sommità Relais Hotel La Sommità Relais hotel is one of the few 5 star hotels in Puglia. The original building, a 16th-century palazzo backing onto Ostuni’s cathedral, has been exquisitely restored. Located in Ostuni’s historical centre, it features a spa, an excellent restaurant, historical architecture, a tranquil garden and terraces with a view, shaded by citrus trees and palms. You feel like in a little oasis in town. The interior of La Sommità Relais is full of original stone walls, columns and arched ceilings lit by candles or sunlight. The furniture is very modern yet it still blends in nicely and offers a few surprises such as the generously dimensioned couch and armchairs in the upper floor… Check out their rates and availability here: La Sommità Relais Hotel. Overall the hotel offers a fascinating and romantic ambiance. Rooms at La Sommità Relais Hotel The luxury hotel has 10 elegant rooms & suites, each with its own structural particularities, which are expressed by their individual names, such as “la torre”, “la cattedrale”, etc. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the citrus gardens and the Adriatic sea, others have small windows through the fortress walls. From our room “il mare” we had an overwhelming view of the sea! The bed is exceptionally comfortable. Not sure what type of sweet sleeper features they use, but the night’s sleep alone was worth the money ;-) CIELO Restaurant – La Sommità Relais Ostuni The “Cielo” restaurant offers excellent Puglian cuisine. The delicious menus are in perfect harmony with the seasonal particularities and the cavernous wine bar has a fine selection of local wines. For starters we enjoyed delicious grilled squids stuffed with broccoli and “Canestro” cheese, small hamburgers marinated with citrus, crunchy and lobster sauce and raw fish including marinated sea bass with rice vinegar, red crayfish in aubergine parmigiana, prawn with green tomatoes, tartare of cuttlefish with passion fruit dressing and red tuna with ponzù sauce, orange, sprouts miso, basil and beet. As main course we had, among other delicacies, “Branzino”, a sea bass cooked on the skin with salty lemon, “Salicornia”, fennel cream, potatoes and liquorice sauce. Take it from me: ‘Delicious’ is a wild understatement, my poor English just doesn’t allow for a more appropriate wording… It goes without saying that we also had to try a dessert. We opted for the fichi, a salad of figs with cheese on bread with caramelised almonds, sabayon au gratin and lemon grass sorbet. Yummy! But if you thought that at this point they are done with you… you are of course making a mistake. Guess what they serve with the caffé? Also the breakfast buffet is varied and tasty. It’s served in yet another cavernous room with fine decoration and ambiance. As per usual in Italy, the staff is very friendly and helpful. And Hotel manager Laura Stopani is obviously doing a great job. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627843484418″ type=”gallery”] Michelin Star for La Sommità’s Chef Update from 24th November 2011: La Sommità’s chef Sebastiano Lombardi was just awarded his first Michelin star, congratulations! And yes, the food not only looks nice but it’s also very tasty. Yummy! Or, if you care for hotel manager Laura Stoppani’s own proud words, here you go! Nel ringraziarvi nuovamente per l’articolo comparso sul vostro blog, siamo oltremodo orgogliosi di condividere con voi la nostra gioia ed il nostro orgoglio, poiché il nostro Chef, Sebastiano Lombardi, è stato premiato con la prima Stella Michelin. Auspichiamo di rivedervi presto, un caro saluto, Laura Stopani, Hotel Manager Wow, just how stylish is written Italian? What to Do in Ostuni Ostuni is a small village that best offers its gems while visiting as a pedestrian. The historic old town is picturesque. Countless little shops and restaurants cling to corners and niches. Talking of restaurants: La Sommità’s excellent restaurant is under fierce competition from small local style places. Just around the corner from the hotel, to name only one example, you’ll find the restaurant “Il tempo perso“. It’s featured in many guide books and you’ll easily find out why that is… ## Justin Timberlake & Jessica Biel’s Posh Wedding Venue: Borgo Egnazia Resort Hotel, Puglia Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/borgo-egnazia-resort-hotel-golf-puglia-italy Built next to the famed San Domenico Golf Course and a few steps away from the Adriatic sea, the Borgo Egnazia Resort’s inviting rural village style stands out. The stone architecture, the stylish decoration and the special atmosphere created by the surrounding scenery — olive and lemon trees, fragrant flower and prickly pears — all contribute to create an extraordinary experience. Borgo Egnazia Resort Hotel Borgo Egnazia caters to all walks of life but especially to families, golfers and travelers looking for total relaxation. Featuring 28 villas and 63 rooms in the central building and 92 typical rural homes, rooms and suites in the adjacent Borgo village this charming resort presents a perfect retreat for all budgets. Located between the mountain and the Adriatic sea near Fasano and Savelletri in the Southern Italian region of Puglia this area boasts reclusive splendor. Check out their rates and availability here (opens in a new window). The narrow alley ways of the Borgo village carefully replicate the traditions of the most typical Apulian historical centers. The village is so picture-perfect that even the plaza’s quaint little church is a “must see” attraction. We weren’t staying at Borgo Egnazia, but so delighted with our “country house” vacation at the nearby Masseria Cimino — run by the same proprietors — we simply had visit the newly opened resort. The two are really quite close in fact, only a few hundred meters apart. The lively concierge, Rosita, was very kind to show us around. She literally breathes the resort’s spirit and knows all of the ins and outs of the local architecture’s peculiarities. We ended our tour with an italian “aperitivo” accompanied by olives, nuts and the typical “Taralli” baked goods. Once you start those little devils you have a hard time stopping! The orange drink is a tasty concoction called Crodino, and the red one is a Sanbitter. Whichever you prefer, either is a “must-taste” in Italy. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627863516970″ type=”gallery”] Update October 2012: Jessica Biel and Justin Timberlake Wedding The glamorous wedding of Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel’s took place at the Borgo Egnazia resort. Biel wore a Giambattista Valli Haute Couture gown, and Timberlake a custom-made Tom Ford tuxedo he helped to design. “It was a total fantasy experience,” Biel told People magazine. The couple wed after a week-long bash in southern Italy’s Puglia region, surrounded by family and friends, including fellow A-listers Jimmy Fallon, Andy Samberg, Timbaland and Beverly Mitchell. The ceremony was also held at the Borgo Egnazia resort. UK’s Daily Mail has some other photographs of the event. Borgo Egnazia hotel website. San Domenico Golf Course next to Borgo Egnazia Resort The San Domenico Golf Course is a Mediterranean link course boasting a rating that is amongst the best in Italy. The 18-hole championship course lies next to the mesmerizing crystal azures of the Adriatic Sea. The first hole sits alongside a tiny fairway with waterways extending the duration of your game. Greens and fairways are very well maintained giving you the feeling of having entered a golfer’s paradise. October temperatures offer the ideal setting for teeing off in the morning or by mid-afternoon. A consistent light breeze from the sea makes for agreeable conditions throughout your game. Official Golf San Domenico website. ## Masseria Cimino, Boutique Hotel in Savelletri, Puglia Region, Southern Italy Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/masseria-cimino-boutique-hotel-savelletri-puglia-italy Masseria Cimino is a 18th century farmhouse that has been transformed into a very stylish boutique hotel. The hotel is situated in Savelletri di Fasano, on the Puglian coast between the cities of Bari and Brindisi. The rooms offer authentic rural design whereas the bar and lounge boast romantic light effects. Masseria Cimino Boutique Hotel Masseria Cimino is surrounded by expanses of vegetable gardens and century old olive groves. This chic luxury guesthouse is situated right next to Puglia’s San Domenico golf course. For passionate golfers who can’t envisage being too far away from the course, this is the place to be :-) The Masseria has 15 rooms, some of which are located in the ancient tower Torre Cimino and others in the old farmhouse. The rooms are furnished in a mediterranean rural and authentical style. Some of the rooms have a beautiful fireplace and others have a large terrace overlooking the patio and golf course and with a view of the nearby Adriatic sea. Masseria Cimino Hotel Restaurant Like the rest of the hotel, Cimino’s rustic restaurant is furnished in white with lots of candles… how romantic! And the food suits the decor – a set menu of proper Pugliese pasta dishes and fabulous foccacia, all made with fresh vegetables grown on site. Also the fish dinner is excellent: Enjoy Italian style antipasto, primo and secondo. Delicious! The only worry is not to eat too much of every course or you won’t make it to the next ;-) Masseria Cimino – What to Do Come to Masseria Cimino if you’re looking to relax, play a round of golf or two and enjoy fine dining in a rural setup. The patio offers chic day beds. Right next to it there is a small pool with very (!) refreshing water. Wireless internet access is available in the lounge and in the rooms. There is an archaeological museum nearby and the small town Savelletri. If you care for afternoon cookies and coffee you should also try Borgo Egnazia, a resort style hotel run by the same proprietors. It was built in 2010 in a rural Italian way with a lot of chic decoration and a village style estate. San Domenico Golf Course next to Masseria Cimino San Domenico Golf is a mediterannean link course rated amongst the best in Italy. The 18 hole championship course lies next to the crystal azzures of the Adriatic Sea. The first hole starts off along some water. As of there you want to make sure not to set off into the thick bristly grass next to the fairway… Greens and fairways are very well maintained and you quickly feel like in a golfer’s paradise. As of October temperatures are ideal for a tee off in the morning or mid afternoon. A light breeze from the sea makes for agreable conditions. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627814338802″ type=”gallery”] ## Marriott Renaissance Zurich Mobimo Tower Designhotel – New Opening Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/renaissance-zurich-mobimo-tower-designhotel-opening The Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel is opening on August 15th 2011 in the spectacular Mobimo Tower in Zurich West right next to the Prime Tower. Discerning guests who value an exclusive, individually-run boutique hotel offering all the amenities of an established chain will enjoy their stay in Zurich’s vibrant entertainment district. Don’t miss the young Australian chef’s refined combinations. Foodies and meat aficionados will love it! Renaissance Zurich Designhotel Opening in the Mobimo Tower The new Marriott Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel (pricing information opens in new window) is located right next to Zurich’s ‘In District’ “Kreis 5”, a very popular nightlife area. It’s situated within walking distance from the Hardbruecke train station and the new Ernst & Young office building as well as the spectacular Prime Tower. Top of Zurich Designhotel The Executive Club Lounge & the Health Club located on the 15th floor of the hotel offer an intriguing view of the city and alps. The new landmark architecture is by renowned Basel architects Diener & Diener. The Mobimo Tower and the Prime Tower make for a spectacular new skyline in Zurich’s West End. The Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel has a total of 300 top-quality designer rooms. In addition to the hotel itself, amenities include the Equinox restaurant, the Lucid American bar and Vivid, the tapas bar, as well as a terrace lounge on the ground floor. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627331882627″ type=”gallery”] Foodies will Enjoy the Equinox Restaurant The young Australian chef serves refined combinations of tasty ingredients. Most meals come with surprising extras. Excellent! Stylish Interior Design The interiors are the brainchild of renowned interior designer Claudio Carbone. Despite the hotel’s positioning as a business hotel it features countless stylish design details. The lobby is colorful enough yet the materials and colors blend nicely and pleasantly. Carbone’s design concept refers to Zurich West’s history as an industrial district. The nearby Prime Tower was the first new landmark tower in Zurich’s West End, Mobimo Tower is the next and some more are to follow… Read the press release about the hotel opening. And here’s my review of a Sunday brunch event (in German, photographs in English). ## Puglia, Italy: Travel Itinerary for a Two Week Tour Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/puglia-italy-travel-itinerary-two-week-roundtrip Beginning of October 2011 we went on a two week roundtrip in Puglia, the region which forms “the heel of Italy’s boot”. The focus during our trip was on bucolic landscapes, golf courses, typical italian food and stellar accomodation. Thanks to all those who gave us some good recommendations on what to see and where to go. Two week roundtrip in Puglia, Italy Puglia is not (yet) one of Italy’s traditional tourist destinations, but it is becoming more and more popular as travellers discover the beautiful landscape with its olive groves and vineyards, the picturesque baroque towns, the unique trulli and of course the wine and delicious cuisine. We visited very characteristique places such as Ostuni, Lecce, Otranto, Gallipoli, Martina Franca and of course we could not miss Alberobello, the hometown of the trulli. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157627908430730″ type=”gallery”] Hotels in Puglia During our trip we stayed at the following hotels: Many thanks to Arnaldo and Federica from Italy for their advice! Masseria Cimino, Savelletri La Sommità, Ostuni Acaya Golf Resort, Vernole Masseria Le Fabriche, Maruggio Relais Histo San Pietro sul Mar, Taranto Masseria Fumarola, Martina Franca Puglia Golf Courses Of course we couldn’t have a vacation without playing a round of golf. We played at the San Domenico Golf course near Savelletri and Fasano. Another round was on Acaya Golf Resort near Lecce. Travel Route for a Two Week Roundtrip in Puglia View in Google Maps ## Private Loire Valley Chateau for Discerning Travellers Source: https://travelmemo.com/france/private-loire-valley-chateau-hotel-near-paris A private view to France: Live the life of an aristocrat in an elegant and authentic Loire valley chateau hotel! Have Comte & Comtesse de Vanssay show you around their historic paradise near Paris. Chateau de La Barre, Loire Valley, France Guest article by Marnie de Vanssay. Chateau de La Barre, less than 2 hours from Paris, lies at the entrance to the French “Valley of the Kings”, the Loire Valley, with it’s famous castles, vineyards and medieval towns. What better way to experience this picturesque region of France than being a guest in an elegant and authentic private château, which has been in the family for more than 600 years? Secluded amidst a private 100 acre park with woods, meadows, fragrant gardens, a family chapel, and XVIth century fortifications, you will be protected from the maddening crowds even in the height of summer. Chateau Guest Rooms Château de La Barre has 5 ornate and elegant reception rooms and 9 magnificently appointed ensuite guest rooms, all replete with precious family antiques, oil paintings, and vibrant designer fabrics, without compromising on modern comfort! The atmosphere prevailing throughout is both one of relaxed chic and understated luxury. What to Do at the Chateau At Château de La Barre, your hosts, Comte & Comtesse de Vanssay, 20th generation, will not only welcome you as family friends, but assist you in planning your visit, sharing their love and knowledge of all the hidden gems of their region with you: oenological games in wineries of the Loire, magical Sound & Light shows in the still quite unknown medieval Plantagenet City of Le Mans, stage to numerous films, or race car driving on the famed Le Mans tracks in your dream car, balloon flights departing from the château park, riding through the bucolic countryside, 3 exciting golf courses nearby, and much sightseeing ranging from the famous renaissance castles to romanesque XIIth century chapels in quaint villages, romantic gardens, farmers markets, gourmet restaurants and much more… Twice weekly, Guy and Marnie host a Grand Siècle Dinner in their XVIIth century dining room with all the family silver and crystal. Alternatively, more relaxed wine & cheese tasting suppers can be arranged in the informal “pièce à feu” in front of the XIVth century majestic fireplace. For small parties of 10 to 20 guests, Guy and Marnie de Vanssay can open up other private estates in their region, with luncheon and tea receptions hosted by the respective owners. A truly gracious and private view of France the way you can experience “By Invitation Only”… Prices per room per night (2 nights min) range from 210 to 360 euros, including VIP welcome drink, English breakfast and tax. Exclusive rental of the entire château for a group starts from 2800 euros per night. Contact: Comte & Comtesse de Vanssay Web: www.chateaudelabarre.com Blog: chateaudelabarre.over-blog.com Loire Valley Tel + 33 2 43 35 00 17 info@chateaudelabarre.com When booking mention ‘travelmemo’ for a complementary bottle of wine ;-) ## Blakes Hotel, London: Multi-million pound refurbishment heralds new era for London’s iconic boutique hotel Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/blakes-boutique-hotel-london-multi-million-pound-refurbishment-heralds-new-era-iconic-hotel Blakes Hotel, created by internationally-renowned designer Anouska Hempel, has unveiled 47 beautifully refurbished rooms, a brand new gymnasium and discreet, Japanese garden-inspired courtyard, following an extensive, eight month refurbishment programme. Guest article by Cara Chapman at Bacchus. Priding itself on its privacy, unrivalled design and unobtrusive service, Blakes Boutique Hotel London (affiliate link opens in new window) has for many years become a ‘home from home’ to royalty and the brightest stars from the worlds of music, fashion art and film. Opened in 1978, Blakes has maintained its reputation as the perfect retreat from the capital’s hustle and bustle. Discreetly tucked away behind its black, Victorian façade in the heart of residential South Kensington, Blakes exudes a bohemian yet decadent ambience. Colour schemes are vibrant, daring and dramatic whilst an abundance of accessories, furniture and artefacts personally collected by Hempel on her travels are carefully scattered throughout, adding to Blakes unique East meets West style. The subtle refurbishment of the rooms has been personally overseen by Hempel (now Lady Weinberg) and each features sumptuous furnishings and state of the art technology including Bang & Olufsen iPod docks and televisions. Signature suites include The Corfu Suite – an immaculate, all-white French Provencal suite with an abundance of gossamer nets and mother of pearl furniture – and Suite 007 – Blakes largest suite featuring original French Art Noveau doors, hand painted white floors and a large Victorian drawing room complete with fireplace and bookcases. One of the most significant developments for Blakes, again designed by Hempel herself is ‘The Courtyard’, a stunning green oasis adorned by a myriad of Bay trees that draws inspiration from a traditional Japanese garden. Serving breakfast, lunch, refreshing afternoon teas and early evening cocktails to both residents and non-residents, the courtyard is a true hidden gem. A further element to the refurbishment programme is the addition of a gym fitted with the latest in Keiser Training equipment, which is exclusively reserved for the use of hotel guests. Blakes Bar and Restaurant Similarly beautifully refurbished are the atmospheric and romantic Blakes Bar and Restaurant, long acknowledged to be one of the most seductive and chic spaces in London. Designed in the classic style of Anouska Hempel, a heady mix of Eastern and Oriental motifs, the restaurant’s menu echoes its environment. Dishes such as Hand-dived scallops with ginger & basil, Seared Ahi tuna with a miso mustard dressing & green tea noodles and Red curry with gingko nuts & lime risottini feature alongside classic modern European dishes, appealing to all tastes. This elegant style is carried through to the Bar, serving a selection of exotic cocktails, and to the adjacent Chinese Room – a private dining room space ideal for intimate dinners and cocktail parties. Very much a self-contained and romantic hideaway, Blakes is a popular choice for intimate weddings and honeymoons. Three of the suites are fully licensed for ceremonies, with Suite 007 catering for up to forty guests. Complimenting its long-stand reputation as ‘The Couture Hotel’, Blakes is also now a member of the exclusive Design Hotels portfolio. For further information or images please contact Cara Chapman at Bacchus on 020 8968 0202 or email: cara{@}bacchus-pr.com www.blakeshotels.com About Blakes Blakes is the world’s original boutique hotel and the inspirational creation of world-renowned designer Anouska Hempel. Located in the heart of residential South Kensington, Blakes completed its multi-million pound refurbishment in May 2011 to unveil 47 uniquely refurbished rooms and suites designed by Hempel herself, a Japanese Garden-inspired courtyard area and state of the art gymnasium. Renowned for its stunning design, elegance and optimum privacy, Blakes is regarded a ‘home from home’ to the A-list, earning its reputation as The ‘Couture’ Hotel. Other stylish London hotels: ## Long weekend in London – Staying at Stylish Park Plaza Hotel Westminster Bridge London Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/long-weekend-london-staying-stylish-park-plaza-hotel-westminster-bridge-london The hotel’s website is okay and its photo gallery was one of the reasons why we booked the hotel. But when we arrived, we were completely blown away! The hotel lobby, restaurants and the hotel room are much more stylish than we expected. The stylistically confident selection of items, materials, colours and lighting effects is awe-inspiring. Park Plaza Hotel Westminster Bridge London The hotel’s website offers only a limited photo gallery that shows several rooms for conference and business needs. But the decor is the type of level you would expect from a boutique hotel: tasteful combinations of colours, materials and lighting make for a stunning WOW effect. The hotel is situated next to Westminster Bridge and the rooms offer iconic views of Big Ben and the London Eye. Visit London We took the usual open top hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus tour as it offers a good impression of the main attractions. Excellent online resource for all things London: LondonTown.com is among the best websites about London. It features an amazing wealth of information with different navigation options by topics. Since you can spend quite a lot of time travelling from one neighbourhood to the next you may want to check your London activities ahead of time and then choose the hotel based on your geographic preferences for things to do or restaurants to go to. LondonTown is perfectly suited for exactly that. Eating out – Dining in London No one knows for sure just how many restaurants there are in London. We were overwhelmed by the choice and it didn’t help a lot to narrow down by several criteria, there are still plenty of places to choose from. But anyway, at some point we were hungry and followed a friend’s recommendation to the Les Trois Garçons in Shoreditch The French restaurant Les Trois Garçons offers a ‘wild’ collection of decoration items. Handbags, deers or a giraffe may all be discovered more or less easily. We had a nice fish dinner with very kind service. Value for money was good. Gaucho near Piccadilly Circus When at some point Katja felt like having some meat we figured an Argentinean place should do the job… Based on their website we ventured to Gaucho Picadilly. They offer atmospheric rooms for private functions and the Chateaubriand was excellent, of course… With the bill (very good value for money) came a clever thing: They added a business card of the Cavas de Gaucho, their associated wine boutique, with a note on the wine we had and its grape variety and origin. Well done! Brasserie Joël And then there’s a restaurant we didn’t go to but we should: The hotel’s own Brasserie Joël. The Times’ food critic Giles Coren gave the place a 9 out of 10 and several other critics praise Michelin Star winning Chef Joël Antunes’ cuisine as well. That’s for next time around… Check out their website for an impression of the masterfully crafted menus! A friend’s restaurant recommendation included the Criterion. We’ll have to personally check that the next time around… ## Hotel Andreus – Amazing Golf & Wellness Spa Resort in South Tyrol Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/hotel-andreus-golf-wellness-spa-resort-south-tyrol The Andreus Golf & Spa Resort sits in the picturesque Passiria Valley in Italy’s South Tyrol, just a 20 minute drive north of Merano. Harmoniously blending with the landscape, the 5 star Andreus Hotel offers its guests luxury and recreation. A beautiful residential ambiance, gastronomic delights and a lavish wellness oasis invite you to tarry and enjoy. The 18-hole Passeier golf course is just out the front door. Also highly rewarding is an excursion to the Kastelruth golf course, in the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains. It has ups and downs like nowhere else… Andreus Golf & Wellness Spa Resort You know you are in South Tyrol when a warm smile greets you on arrival in the hotel! :-) The mix of Mediterranean lifestyle and alpine tradition and the people’s hospitable nature give South Tyrol its special charm. And this is how we, too, were received at the Hotel Andreus. Welcome drink with Prosecco und strawberry Panorama and Garden Suites in the Andreus 5 star Golf & Wellness Hotel The suites are very stylishly appointed in wood, natural stone and materials and have all the comforts for spoiling guests. From the first moment, you feel in harmony with nature because of the warm ambiance, the comfortable furnishings and choice of materials. Garden Suite All suites have a bedroom with sofa and seating area, walk-in closet, safe, minibar, direct dial telephone and satellite TV with Internet connection (LAN cable). The separate bathroom has a shower, toilet, and bidet. By the way, from the taps throughout the house flows Grander water. This so-called “invigorated water” is said to have a beneficial effect on the whole human organism. Naturally, we drank our generous share while there… Culinary delights in the 5th floor panorama restaurant The abundant, healthy breakfast with an organic section leaves absolutely nothing to be desired. But in the evening, too, you will be treated to a six-course gourmet dinner. The selection is ample and the menus are put together and presented with a passion for detail. We need hardly mention that we were also served with a warm hospitality at the restaurant… Dining room Should you get a little hungry in the afternoon already, just help yourself to the buffet with its array of fine cakes from the in-house patisserie. Cozy salon for coffee and cake The only thing we steered clear of was the cigar lounge. The organic section had simply made too much of a wholesome impression on us to torpedo with a cigar. We’ll leave that for another time… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626869396800″ type=”gallery”] “Wow effect” wellness & spa in the Andreus Resort! The 2,000 m2 sauna world with its many exceptional features evoked the “wow effect” in us! The sense of wellbeing was immediate the moment we entered the sauna area with its tastefully matched materials and colors. Wood decor in the relaxation zone of the Spa world What’s more, the offerings are huge and invite you at every turn to relaxation and wellbeing, be it in the connected, year-round heated indoor-outdoor pool, under the various waterfalls and experience showers, herbal and saline steam baths, the Finnish panoramic sauna , or be it in the clay sauna or the whirlpool chaises with underwater music. The big picture window does justice to the panoramic part of the sauna’s name. As the afternoon sun floods in, this is one unusual sauna with a beautiful view. Panoramic sauna We particularly enjoyed the quiet oases, be it the alpine relaxation room with hay beds or the cozy nooks in the beautifully landscaped garden. But we liked most leaving all our cares behind while swinging on the double swing… “Tranquility swing” in the Andreus Sauna area Andreus Spa Suite During our stay, we indulged in a “Caribbean Dream” in the Andreus Spa Suite. Life is rough… The Spa Suite has all the right stuff for a wellness oasis atmosphere: infrared cabin, double whirlpool tub and cuddle corner – highly recommended for homey intimacy after a hectic day. Spa Suite with candle, stone decoration and fiber optic lighting After the body peel with exotic extracts, a soothing bath in avocado and other oil followed by a full body massage, all that was left for us to do was savor the exquisite cocktail and fruit plate… Cocktail and fruit in the Andreus Spa Suite Golf in South Tyrol Practically right next to the Andreus Resort is the Passiria Golf Course. The water hazards, including seven ponds with water lilies, and the numerous bunkers are course highlights. Although we very much like the Passiria Golf Course, we did also drive up to the Seiseralp. For there lies in Kastelruth – in our view – one of the most spectacular 18 hole golf courses in South Tyrol: The place is in an idyllic setting in the midst of the imposing Dolomites Ponds, ravines, streams, fascinating waterfalls make for a stunning backdrop. It’s quite possible to be distracted by all that nature as you are about to tee off… There are literally lots of ups and downs, with the par 3 holes placed so that you are hitting straight down: the 15th hole is said to have Europe’s greatest drop in height between tee and green. Walter at the fourth tee in Kastelruth And at the par 3 fourth hole, the ball not only has to fly across a thunderous creek down into a valley but there is zero room for error either to the right or left. I’m not telling here where my two tries landed… The 5th tee in Kastelruth in the Dolomites But easy does it; after a breathtakingly steep climb to the 5th hole, the ball only has to carry over a chasm. Somewhere there, on the other side of the valley, is the start of the fairway. Simply spectacular! ## Un Lieu Unique – Urban Boutique Vacation Home in Annecy, France Source: https://travelmemo.com/france/lieu-unique-urban-boutique-vacation-home-annecy-france Most probably you are heading to Annecy in France because you’ve heard that it is a picturesque easy going city by the peaceful Lake Annecy. What you may not be aware of is ‘Un Lieu Unique – Gites Urbains’, an urban boutique style vacation home setup by the romantic Thiou canal in the heart of the Annecy city centre. Un Lieu Unique – Le Dolce Apartment Un Lieu Unique – Gites Urbains consists of two apartments by the canal (Le Dolce & The Lodge) and a third one a few steps further down the street (Cocon). The one room apartment offers generous boutique design luxury including a little balcony on the canal, Nespresso coffee and free wifi internet access. A little kitchen with all amenities allows for home cooking if desired. But then again there are plenty of small and cosy restaurants around the corner. We tried moules at the Captain Pub Grill. Un Lieu Unique – Cocon The Cocon apartment is a white dream a few meters down the Jean Jacques Rousseau street. The room is very atmospheric and features a (white) kitchenette with the now usual Nespresso machine. Enjoyed that a lot ;-) Same as the Dolce apartment the Cocon features a flat tv screen, an iPod and free wifi access. For more information such as a map, prices and availability please check out my hotel page overview. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626759310442″ type=”gallery”] Annecy – old city centre The city of Annecy is nicely nested into the riviera of Lake Annecy. Plenty of cafés and restaurants offer patios by the canal and by the lake. The city hall marks the transition from the city to recreational parks by the lake and according fishermen boats. Annecy’s relaxed atmosphere lends itself perfectly for a little street concert at Café des Arts. Bikers, rollerbladers, hikers or golfers will find perfect conditions for practising their respective passion. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626759310442″ type=”slideshow”] Dinner in Annecy You will find plenty of restaurants by the picturesque canal. Due to windy weather conditions we opted for the cosy Captain Pub Grill and enjoyed tasty moules and pommes frites. At another occasion we got lucky and locals Sun Mee and Renaud offered fois gras made at home and a roulade de la volaille à la truffe avec son gratin dauphinois. That spectacularly well made menu was rounded off with fromage crême de Saint Agur and fraises mara des bois au chantilly. Needless to say that the Château Carpe Diem from côtes de provence was a nice fit and the opening Gewürztraminer Vieille Vigne made its effect. I know the menu this precisely because host Sun Mee was craving to make it into my travel blog and I wanted to get it all right. Here you are, Sun Mee ;-) Thanks for having us! Unfortunately I learned about her wish only after we had dinner. Therefore there are no menu photos… But be assured that her cooking skills are exceptional! Rumour has it that also Renaud is a wonderful chef… Update June 25, 2011: One of my takes made it to SiennaCharles.com’s ‘photograph of the week’ section! ## La Mamounia Luxury Hotel in Marrakech, Morocco Source: https://travelmemo.com/morocco/la-mamounia-luxury-hotel-in-marrakech-morocco The luxury hotel ‘La Mamounia’ is located at a short walk from Marrakech’s city centre. It is said to offer one of Africa’s most atmospheric spa & wellness setups. Next time around I should free up some more time in order to check with my own eyes ;-) La Mamounia Luxury Hotel – Marrakesh, Morocco One of Africa’s most luxurious hotels is La Mamounia, situated at short walking distance from the Marrakech city centre. Staff members are very friendly – okay, what did I expect… – but still, I was impressed. The art deco and moorish decoration and lighting by designer Jacques Garcia is fairly dark, maybe as a contrast to the bright sunshine outside. Fresh callas and different room types make for a varied hotel lobby setup that fits classy tastes. The parking lot sign may be a bit rusty – but very much in style, of course… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626363355596″ type=”gallery”] We stayed at the Palmeraie Golf Palace this time around and not at La Mamounia, hence I can’t report on the rooms and the allegedly fabulous spa, just yet. Condé Nast Traveller’s readers voted the spa as their number one out of a list of the world’s top 25 spas. Condé Nast has also named La Mamounia Best Hotel for service in Africa, Middle East & Indian Ocean for 2011. ## Djemaa el Fna Square – Marrakech, Morocco Source: https://travelmemo.com/morocco/djemaa-el-fna-square-marrakech-morocco The ‘Djemaa el Fna’ in Marrakech is one of the UNESCO’s ‘masterpieces of the oral and intangible heritages of humanity’. Street performers, fortune-tellers and charlatans offer their arts between food and beverage stalls. Djemaa el Fna (Assembly of the Dead) The Djemaa el Fna is Marrakesh’s most famous locality and most probably the most vivid. Stalls are all over the place but also the surrounding streets offer attractive and very busy small shops. As a tourist you can easily walk the streets and souks on your own. Yes, you will be asked into the shops but the salesmen are very respectful. After your first ‘thanks, but no thanks’ they will leave you alone. Shopping in Souks and the Complexe d’Artisanat In the souks you will get everything from spices and medicine to souvenirs of all sorts. If you prefer to shop around in a ‘Western style’, i.e. you check things out and the salesmen wait until you approach them, you should consider the ‘Complexe d’Artisanat‘ on the Derb Baissi Rue de la Kasbah. On 16000 square meters it offers an overwhelming choice ranging from carpets to tea cans and everything else you can possibly imagine. Well, that was my impression, anyway, for you could also wish for a H.R. Giger alien sculpture… We were shown around by the friendly Mr. Salah who would give us some insights into the carpet technique diversity from Persia, Arabia, Maghreb or Africa. Matt Long has an interesting description of the same square when later on it becomes the ‘night market‘. According to his description the vendors may be more aggressive later on in the evening. And yes, knowledge of French is a big plus in Morocco! Other recommendations we received include http://www.harem-escape.com/, i Limoni, Le Comptoir Darna (book a table in the main restaurant and check out their bar on the first floor after dinner), Terrace des Epices in the Medina and Restaurant Al Fassia Gueliz (book ahead of time, it’s very popular). ## Amelkis Golf Course in Marrakech – Excellent Club House Source: https://travelmemo.com/morocco/amelkis-golf-course-marrakech-club-house Amelkis Golf Club has a splendid kasbah style clubhouse with a terrace overlooking the course and the majestic Atlas mountains. Enjoy a well deserved drink after a good round of golf! Amelkis Golf Club in Marrakech, Morocco The Amelkis Golf Club is located a short ride from the Marrakech city centre at Km 12 on Route de Ouarzazate just opposite the Royal Golf Club. The kasbah style clubhouse looks promising from the start but it will only fully disclose its charme once you finish the round of golf and make it to its upper floor… wow! The rooms are picturesque and equipped luxuriously while the terraces on both sides of the building open to the golf course and the distant Atlas on the horizon. Golf vacation accomodation If you are planning a golf trip to Marrakech you may want to talk to the local French pro Alain Schneider from Marrakech Golf Concept. Alain is fluent at least in English, French and German and helps with accomodation and transfers to the golf courses Amelkis, Al Maaden, Assoufid, Palmeraie, Royal and Samanah. ## Palmeraie Golf Palace & Spa, Marrakech – Excellent golf resort Source: https://travelmemo.com/morocco/palmeraie-golf-palace-spa-marrakech-golf-resort The Palmeraie Golf Palace & Spa is located in Marrakech’s outskirts at a short 20 minutes drive from the modern Marrakech airport. With 27 golf holes the hotel offers a perfect base for golfers. Playing Golf at Palmeraie Golf Palace & Spa The day at Palmeraie Golf Palace starts out with a varied breakfast buffet at ‘Le Grand Bleu’, the open restaurant by the swimming pool. Golfers then take to the nearby driving range and the golf course with it’s 3 x 9-hole courses. Helpful caddies are available at 100 Dirham per 18 holes plus tip. Most of them are good golfers themselves with handicaps in the low double digits. They not only help with the equipment but also with course management and reading the reasonably quick greens. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626363355596″ type=”gallery”] Spacious Hotel Rooms The hotel rooms offer spacious accomodation in a luxurious setup including free WiFi access. Italian Restaurant ‘Signor Santi’ The Italian restaurant offers a dense atmosphere with brick pillars and vaults. Japanese Restaurant ‘Geisha Lounge’ The Japanese restaurant is surprisingly large. The black and red decoration makes for a stylish atmosphere and the tasty food fits in perfectly. Try the Teppanyiaki and sushi, of course. Moroccan Restaurant ‘El Karmoussa’ The Moroccan restaurant features a cosy and colourful decoration. The food is tasty, try the Moroccan soup and the Moroccan bread and lamb dish, it’s excellent! And the belly dancers are fairly impressive, too! They and a couple musicians underline the local reference. Nikki Beach Restaurant Nikki Beach is a charming oasis with a relaxed and sophisticated ambience. It is situated at a short walk from the Palmeraie Golf Palace along the Circuit de la Palmeraie and the golf course. The golf trip was organized by Switzerland based golf pro Oliver Riss. Thanks a lot for having us! Golf vacation accomodation If you are planning a golf trip to Marrakech you may want to talk to the local French pro Alain Schneider from Marrakech Golf Concept. Alain is fluent at least in English, French and German and helps with accomodation and transfers to the golf courses Amelkis, Al Maaden, Assoufid, Palmeraie, Royal and Samanah. ## Travelmatch.co.uk – Find Travel Deals Across 11 Travel Agents and Tour Operators Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-kingdom/travelmatch-co-uk-find-travel-deals-travel-agent-tour-operators travelmatch.co.uk is a sleek travel meta search engine with modern guided navigation features. It takes the innovative concept a step further and not only offers a plethora of navigation choices (facets) but also sliders in order to narrow down the rich travel inventory provided by 11 well known travel agents and tour operators such as First Choice, Kuoni, Thomson, Virgin Holidays, Thomas Cook and others. travelmatch.co.uk – Find Perfect Holiday and Compare Best Deals The travelmatch.co.uk homepage looks fairly conventional. Which is what people are looking for, of course. Nothing fancy here. Just yet… The magic happens under the hood, i.e. after you start searching for a travel destination, say an all inclusive holiday to Egypt. The faceted search (aka guided navigation) kicks in on the left hand side with further refinement options in order to narrow down the choices. The top navigation bar allows for from – to ranges, the left hand guided navigation for multiple selection of check boxes. The system works quickly and easily, it’s straight forward to understand. Hotel pages come with reviews from TripAdvisor, photo galleries, prices and availabilities from different travel agents and the usual social media buttons such as Facebook, Twitter and tell-a-friend. As per usual with a guided navigation, options that are no longer available are greyed out. This way you will never get a ‘no results found for your search’ message anymore. Very nice! This is a commissioned review with full editorial control by travelmemo.com. ## Eiger Mönch & Jungfrau: Bernese Oberland Panorama in the Swiss Alps Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/eiger-moench-jungfrau-bernese-oberland-panorama-in-the-swiss-alps Eiger, Moench and Jungfrau offer an awe inspiring panorama of the Bernese Oberland in the Swiss Alps. With sunny weather you get spectacular views of peaks, glaciers and valleys around Lauterbrunnen, Wengen, Grindelwald and Kleine Scheidegg. Hiking from Maennlichen to Kleine Scheidegg From the hotels in Wengen it’s a short stroll to the Maennlichen gondola lift. It will take you quickly to the summit station on an altitude of 2225 meters. From here you enjoy a spectacular view of the Eiger North Face, Mönch and Jungfrau. The summit offers space enough for restaurants and landing areas for glacier planes and helicopters. Slopes in the Bernese Oberland are excellent and offer perfect conditions to both skiers and snowboarders. A good option for lunch is the Bellevue des Alpes hotel restaurant in Kleine Scheidegg. Its sun deck offers great views of the Jungfrau glacier and the Sphinx observatory high on Jungfraujoch. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157626093021801″ type=”gallery”]\ How to get there? From Zurich it’s a short 2 hour drive via Lucerne to Interlaken Ost and Lauterbrunnen. That’s where you have to leave the car and take the rack railway to car-free Wengen. It’s also here where the famous Lauberhorn ski world cup race takes place. ## Hotel Windsor, Geneva – Good Value for Money in 3 Star Hotel in City Centre Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/hotel-windsor-geneva-3-star-hotel-city-centre If you are looking for a hotel in Geneva you may want to check out the Windsor Hotel right in the Geneva city centre. The 3 star hotel offers very good value for money. Windsor Hotel in the Geneva City Centre The Windsor Hotel Geneva is situated only a few steps from the Geneva train station in the Pâquis quarter. I.e. you may not want to go there with kids in the night or you would end up with a lot of questions asked ;-) On the other hand there are numerous ‘business bars’ around… The Windsor hotel was refurbished in 2010 and now features a comprehensive art collection and lifely colors. The paintings are by Jelena Ferry, Christian Guillot and others. The Windsor hotel is my preferred choice when on the road for business in Geneva. The Quality Hotel is a good choice for Geneva, too, with surprisingly luxurious rooms, but it is a bit less close to the train station. ## Townhouse Boutique Hotel in Zurich City Centre Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/townhouse-boutique-hotel-zurich-city-centre In summer 2010 a new boutique hotel opened its doors in the heart of Zurich’s city centre, a block away from the main train station. The Townhouse Boutique Hotel offers English style accomodation right next to the famous Bahnhofstrasse. Townhouse Boutique Hotel, Zurich Check-in takes place in a living room type atmosphere on the 5th floor. That makes the Townhouse Boutique Hotel Zurich hard to spot since the ground level hosts shops and restaurants. I discovered the hotel only by chance while accompanying colleagues who checked in at the Townhouse. I was surprised by the great location right downtown Zurich. There are different room types and sizes and apparently value for money is very good. As I happened to walk in only by chance I didn’t have my usual SLR camera with me, but my brandnew HTC smartphone does a good job, too ;-) ## Marina Bay Sands: Popular Photo for Attribution Thieves Source: https://travelmemo.com/singapore/marina-bay-sands-popular-photo-attribution-thieves Marina Bay Sands Hotel & Casino in Singapore I took this dramatic photo of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel & Casino as it looked at dusk from the nearby Esplanade. The lighting at this time of day perfectly complimented the Sands Sky Park crowning this contemporary structure. View of Marina Bay Sands Casino Hotel during dusk as seen from Singapore’s Esplanade Although I was certainly hoping to attract visitors to view this photo, I did not expect the amount of times it was taken from my website without attribution. If you care to properly license the photograph please check out the pricing options via Getty Images. When Google indexed this image on January 7th 2011, I was thrilled to discover that it was generating some pretty decent traffic; in fact, it became the most visited post on my site. On April 11th of that year, however, another site uploaded it from Google images onto their page without giving me a proper photo attribution. This action resulted in such a devastating drop in traffic to my site that by April 15th, I was down to zero viewers! Luckily, this did not last long. Before I was able to wrap my head around what was happening and figure out a way to get Google to put my photo back in their index, the traffic picked up again on April 16th. I forgot about this situation for the moment — relieved that my traffic was back. Unfortunately, this happened again during the summer of 2011. And this time, the traffic didn’t pick up again after one day. So, I did some investigating. When you type in some specific search keywords on Google Image’s url (such as ‘Marina Bay Sands hotel’), my original photo shows up between pages 2 and 10 — which is not too shabby for an amateur travel blogger like myself. The problem is that the link and worse, the credit for my photo never comes to my page anymore. It goes to those other websites that copied it! And if that is not enough, some of these websites are pretty full of spam. In the age of Google Panda Updates where a website is supposed to get rewarded for adding original high-quality content, this is very ironic! To try and solve my dilemma, I have sent polite emails to the offending sites in an effort to get them to remove or at least properly credit my photo. I’ll keep my readers posted on my progress. Update 18.1.2013: Here’s a new episode of the Google traffic riddle. As of December 14th 2012 my photograph sends significantly more traffic than the previous months. It can be found prominently via Google Images and obviously links properly to my blog post. Love it, thanks Google! And what’s neat of course, when I track down the hotel in Google+ it shows my photograph as an icon! I assume this is personalized, i.e. you probably get an another icon? Tracking down Marina Bay Sands on Google+ shows my photograph as an icon Update 8.6.2013: At the beginning I found my photograph on ‘dozens’ of other blogs and websites. In the meantime it takes Google Images eight pages to list all those copycats… Eight pages listing my photograph… Many of those are wallpaper photo suppliers. Some put their own watermark on my photograph. How crazy is that? And here’s my latest take of the spectacular hotel as featured in my new blog post. Marina Bay Sands hotel, casino, art museum, mall Update 18.4.2014 Nope, I don’t think Google is doing a good job regarding image tracking 8-( Traffic for this page. Google keeps loosing track of the original photograph ## Kangaroo Island 4×4 Tour, South Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/south-australia/kangaroo-island-4x4-tour-australia Kangaroo Island features many of Australia’s attractions on a single large island off Adelaide, but it also has a few additional peculiarities such as sea lions, fur seals and the ‘Remarkable Rocks’ formation. An understatement of colossal dimensions… Kangaroo Island is a 30 minutes flight southwest of Adelaide. Regional Express (www.regionalexpress.com.au) offers multiple twin prop aircraft flights between Adelaide and Kingscote, the biggest town. There is also a ferry service available for those who want to bring their own car. 4×4 cars can also be rented, but of course, you miss the guide’s knowledge (and cooking skills). Instead, we booked a 4WD two day tour with Kangaroo Island Wilderness Tours. Tour guide Greg did a wonderful job in showing us around on his homeland. Flinders Chase National Park, in the western part of the island, features two striking rock formations: Remarkable Rocks – granite boulders that resemble Henry Moore sculptures, and Admiral’s Arch, the habitat of some 6,000 New Zealand fur seals. Seal Bay, on the southern coast, is where you get really close to smell sea lions. Guided by park rangers, tourists make their way along boardwalks stretched across sand dunes to mingle with a vast colony of sea lions dosing in the sun after returning from days foraging for food in the water. Coalas can be observed in the Hanson Bay Coala Sanctuary. Stokes Bay is a beatyful beach with a special entry point through the rocks – tides pending… Accomodation: We stayed very comfortably at the Seascape Lodge on Emu Bay. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625629810934″ type=”gallery”] Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian VIVID Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. vividmagazine.net Check this other traveler’s report if you care for proper English… And here for a more in-depth description of Kangaroo Island. ## Seascape Lodge on Emu Bay, Kangaroo Island Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/south-australia/seascape-lodge-kangaroo-island-emu-bay Mandy & Paul Brown run a comfortable lodge with great views of Emu Bay on Kangaroo Island. Their cooking is excellent and if you want to learn a thing or two on cricket, here’s the place! (Without cricket knowledge you won’t understand the first ten pages of Australian newspapers. As of the eleventh page you need knowledge of Australian rules football…) Luxury Accomodation in Seascape Lodge Seascape Lodge is situated on Kangaroo Island’s north coast on the hills up from Emu Bay. Just 3 spacious guest suites with verandas make for a private stay in a relaxed environment. Wireless internet access is available. Mandy and Paul call their cuisine ‘elegant home style cooking’ and they serve local Kangaroo Island wines with that. Excellent! Needless to say that also the breakfast buffet is up to par with pampered travelers’ high expectations. If you book a 4WD tour the Landrover guide will drop you off at the lodge and pick you up the next morning exactly on time. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625630547560″ type=”gallery”] See also other reviews on TripAdvisor. ## Henry & Rose, Stylish Café on Dukes Highway Adelaide – Grampians Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/south-australia/henry-rose-cafe-on-dukes-highway-adelaide-grampians ‘Henry & Rose’ is an adorable café and restaurant in Keith situated on the Dukes highway between the Grampians and Adelaide in Southern Australia. You won’t regret a little break in Henry & Rose’s backyard or in the comfortable restaurant / café. Henry & Rose merchandising Henry & Rose is an unexpected gem on the Dukes highway between the Grampians and Adelaide. It stands out significantly from the other cafés on the route. Couches and living room atmosphere Fireplace and magazines Recommended ‘Henry & Rose’ Gail from the Meringa Springs lodge in Wartook recommended Henry & Rose and she was absolutely right, it’s a magic place! From Meringa Springs in the Grampians it’s a 3-hour drive, from Adelaide a 2-hour drive, hence the perfect site for a break on the journey. Find Henry & Rose on Google Maps. Größere Kartenansicht Read my Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian VIVID Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. vividmagazine.net Birds decor on the side table ## Hiking in the Grampians National Park – Western Victoria – Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/victoria/grampians-national-park-hiking-western-victoria-australia One of regional Victoria’s leading outdoor activity centers, the Grampians National Park, offers bush walking, mountain biking and rock climbing for the energetic hiker and leisurely walks to the wanderer. The Grampians Comprehensive and nicely presented information is available from the Brambuk National Park and Cultural Centre. It highlights indigenous culture, heritage and the natural environment of the park through impressive displays and activities. There are more than 160 kilometers of walking tracks ranging from short, easy walks to challenging overnight expeditions for the experienced bush walker, hiker or wanderer. Walking in the Grampians allows you to discover a variety of wonderful panoramas, secluded bush settings, rugged rock formations, waterfalls, aboriginal rock art sites and fern gullies. The Balconies The Balconies can be reached within 15 minutes or so from the Reed’s Lookout parking area (30 minutes return). Reed Lookout The Reed Lookout is right next to the parking area. MacKenzie Falls The MacKenzie Falls are quite spectacular! The way down from the parking site is steep and includes slippery steps, but it’s worth the strain. Beehive Falls Spectacular waterfall after a rainfall: Beehive Falls are not quite as grand as the MacKenzie Falls but it’s also impressive. When there’s much water the way to the Boroka Outlook is not only dangerous but even blocked. Accommodation I warmly recommend the Meringa Springs Lodge near Wartook. Further information: visitgrampians.com.au grampianstravel.com When on your way to or from the Grampians to Adelaide make sure to stop in Keith for a break at ‘Henry & Rose‘ café. You won’t regret it! Printed Travelogue Read my Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian VIVID Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. Cover of Vivid Magazine and my travelogue on Victoria, Australia vividmagazine.net ## Meringa Springs – Small Luxury Lodge in Grampians National Park Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/victoria/meringa-springs-small-luxury-lodge-grampians-national-park Boutique style living at its best! Meringa Springs offers intimate accomodation in a luxurious lodge setup in Wartook in the Grampians. High ceilings, fire-places, rich timber finishes, stylish décor and friendly hosts with a Swiss background add up to an unforgettable stay. Meringa Springs Lodge Meringa Springs Small Luxury Lodge, Restaurant and Bar is located near the Grampians Nationalpark and serves as perfect base for hiking expeditions or leisurely walks. Meringa Springs Lodge Villa Accomodation Meringa Springs Hosts Meringa Springs offers exceptional care for guests: Just 3 villas and 2 rooms offer intimate accomodation for up to ten guests. This ensures that the owners have enough time to care. Paul will receive guests and be the Chef when it comes to fine cuisine. His wife Gail will make sure the service in the restaurant is up to par and their daughter will manage things around the lodge. Make sure you try Paul’s Portland Beef Eye Fillet served with a green pepper sauce, röschti potatoes and vegetables or his Lamb Sirloin served with a hint of mint, röschti potatoes and vegetables. Absolutely outstanding! Printed Travelogue Read my Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian VIVID Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. Check out Meringa Springs’ prices & availability here. ## Oscar’s at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel – Port Fairy, Victoria Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/victoria/oscar-boutique-hotel-port-fairy-victoria We stayed at Oscar’s at the Waterfront, a recommendable boutique hotel by the waterfront. Oscar’s Accomodation in Port Fairy The rooms at Oscar’s Boutique Hotel are generous, the breakfast very tasty. Wireless internet is available in the rooms and the lounge. Restaurants in Port Fairy We had very good dinner at ‘Portofino at Banks’, an Italian fine dining restaurant. It’s situated at walking distance from Oscar’s on Port Fairy‘s main street ‘Banks’. L’Edera is another recommended Italian restaurant on Bank street. It’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so we couldn’t try it. Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian Vivid Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. Cover of Vivid Magazine and my travelogue on Victoria, Australia vividmagazine.net ## Great Ocean Road – 12 Apostles, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/victoria/great-ocean-road-12-apostles-australia The Great Ocean Road in Victoria, South Australia, is one of the world’s most scenic drives with a stunning coastline. The road winds along cliff tops offering breathtaking panoramic views. Great Ocean Road Lookout Driving from Melbourne southwards we stopped over at Apollo Bay. The drive between Lorne and Apollo Bay is a very picturesque part of the Great Ocean Road…. even with bad weather! Foggy coast near Apollo Bay In Apollo Bay we had dinner at “La Bimba” restaurant, a relaxed Moroccan style bistro, with tiled tables, coloured wall hangings and paintings. We can warmly recommend the “Whole Mirror John Dory” with Marrocan spices and couscous – very delicious! But order only a small starter, the John Dory is huge ;-) Whole Mirror John Dory Maroccan style Great Otway National Park The Great Otway National Park offers various attractions and things to do; camping, horse riding, mountain biking and walking. One of the most spectacular waterfalls around is the “Triplet Falls”. Triplet Falls at Great Otway National Park For guaranteed Koala sightings we recommend the Kennett River Koala walk. You often spot them eating or sleeping in trees right next to the road! Lazy Koala at Kennett River Twelve Apostles The most famous section of the Great Ocean Road is between Apollo Bay and Port Campbell and features an amazing collection of rock formations known as the “Twelve Apostles”. These giant rock stacks that rise majestically from the Southern Ocean have been created by constant erosion of the limestone cliffs of the mainland that began 10–20 million years ago! Twelve Apostles Great Ocean Road Our journey continued to Port Fairy where we stayed at the recommendable Oscar’s at the Waterfront Boutique Hotel. Printed Travelogue Read my Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian VIVID Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. Cover of Vivid Magazine and my travelogue on Victoria, Australia vividmagazine.net ## Scuba Diving in the Great Barrier Reef Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/scuba-diving-great-barrier-reef Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is one of the world’s best scuba diving destinations. A relaxing and comfortable option for cruising the Reef is a “live-aboard” experience on specially-designated cruise ships such as the Spirit of Freedom. Red Lion Fish on Great Barrier Reef The photo above is courtesy of Joel Simon, president of Sea for Yourself, a snorkeling tour operator focusing on educational snorkeling programs around the globe. The aforementioned Spirit of Freedom cruise offers (among many other iconic diving sites) a three-day cruise from Cairns, Queensland, to Lizard Island. Throughout the trip, guests will enjoy a wonderfully unique bio-diversity display including dramatic soft corals , exotic aquatic life as well as whales and majestic manta rays. On the first day of the trip, divers participate in an introductory check dive at Turtle Bommie followed by a second dive at Twin Peaks. The second day is action packed with 5 dives in total. The first dive of the day takes place in the early morning at Cod Hole — which features a healthy cod fish population. The second dive is also at this same location, difference being that this time guests are provided with some food for the “gentle giants”. The third dive of the day featured a new dive site called Scorpio Rising. In the afternoon, divers explore the corridors at Challenger Bay before ending the day with an evening dive there as well. On the third and final day, the dive site at Pixie Pinnacle (also perfect for snorkeling) offers spectacular pinnacles and the picture-perfect Light House Bommie. The trip rounds off with two final dives at the diving site known as Snake Pit . Cod Feeding in Cod Hole More photos of this fantastic trip… [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625638334383″ type=”gallery”] ## Spirit of Freedom – Dive Cruise off the Great Barrier Reef, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/spirit-of-freedom-liveaboard-dive-cruise-off-the-great-barrier-reef-australia The Spirit of Freedom liveaboard dive cruise ship offers three day excursions out of Cairns, Queensland, to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. The return to Cairns is by small airplane, thus conveniently offering more time at the reef. Dive Cruise and Dive Spots with the Spirit of Freedom After pick-up at the corresponding hotel and departure in the Cairns marina the first day includes a short check dive and another shallow dive. The second day is packed with 5 dives including a night dive near Lizard Island. After breakfast on the third day an easy hike on Lizard Island leads to the little airstrip and the flight back to Cairns arriving just before noon. The three day excursion offers intense diving at attractive dive spots. For us diving was perfect within a first-time one-month trip to Australia’s East coast. Spirit of Freedom – Dive Vessel The Spirit of Freedom’s crew offers very professional service and equipment. The vessel‘s dive deck is fully functional and well organized. On the top deck there are two fairly luxurious cabins with large windows and DVD/TV that easily accomodate for two divers. The sun deck is generous and complimentary (strong) sun cream is provided in large bottles… The main deck offers a spacious lounge with entertainment options, the dining room and the dive deck. The lower deck hosts several cabins with 2, 3 or 4 beds. The return journey from Lizard Island is conveniently by Hinterland Aviation’s cessna carrying up to 13 passengers. On our trip there were two aircraft involved for the group. The low level return flight accomodates for spectacular views of the rainforest around Cooktown, Cape Tribulation and the Daintree River. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625638334383″ type=”gallery”] ## Visiting Cairns, Queensland, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/visiting-cairns-queensland-australia Based on a impressions from Google Streetview we were expecting a few small huts in Cairns – instead we were completely blown away when visiting the popular and nicely made esplanade, the Bellavista Marina and stylish restaurants and bars. The Esplanade in Cairns The Esplanade is very popular especially on Sundays when the public swimming pool is well frequented. Bellavista at the Marina Shopping Centre The Bellavista at the Marina is a modern and stylish shopping centre by the marina. Besides up-scale restaurants and shops it offers a spacious ‘waiting area’ with internet access points. Bill Bryson in ‘A Sunburned Country’ describes his own view of Cairns since it seemed pretty rainy on his visit. Amazon.com Widgets ## The Hotel, Cairns, Queensland, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/the-hotel-cairns-queensland-australia ‘The Hotel’ in Cairns’ city centre serves as good base for day trips to the rainforest or the Great Barrier Reef. ‘The Hotel’ in Cairns The Hotel is conveniently located within walking distance of the Esplanade. The hotel rooms are generous and offer a veranda or balcony. The hotel pool is well protected behind bamboo and palm trees. The restaurant offers elegant seating in white and greenish. Bill Bryson in ‘A Sunburned Country’ describes his own view of Cairns. Watch out for quality when taking over a rental car… Amazon.com Widgets ## Silky Oaks Lodge – Mossman Rainforest, Cairns Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/silky-oaks-lodge-mossman-rainforest-cairns The Silky Oaks Lodge in Mossman near Cairns offers a luxurious and secluded stay in Queensland’s wet rainforest. Silky Oaks Lodge Amenities The car drive from the Cairns airport to the Silky Oaks Lodge takes a bit more than an hour. A 4×4 vehicle is not necessarily needed to get there as long as the streets are not flooded as apparently happens from time to time. The Silky Oaks Lodge offers spacious riverside and hillside ‘bungalows’ with a veranda. [nggallery id=32] The dining room offers a spectacular view of the Mossman River. What to do in the Silky Oaks Lodge We highly recommend the one-day tour offered by the lodge. It takes across the Daintree River to the northern rainforest up to Cape Tribulation. Our tour guide Norm Evans was very knowledgable since he spent most of his life in the bush and the outback. E.g. we were not aware that rattan would grow in the rainforest… Norm’s experience and brave action took us safely through a couple of adventurous situations. The Croc Cruise on the Daintree River is part of the one-day tour and includes surprisingly numerous saltwater crocodile sightings. That’s the aggressive and big ones. Scary stuff, man! [nggallery id=33] Around the lodge there are a few rainforest trails to explore and a swim in the croc-free Mossman River billabong is recommended. On the second day at the lodge we took to a ‘self-guided’ tour across the Great Dividing Range away from the rainforest to Mareeba, Kuandra and the according Outback. It’s impressive how quickly the landscape can change in Australia’s east: From dense rainforest to dry bushes it only takes a few minute’s drive by car… ## Brisbane, Australia – Citytrip Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/brisbane-australia-citytrip Out of a first-time, one-month trip to Australia we spent two days in vibrant Brisbane. Gaging from the ubiquos condo building activitiy, countless luxury car dealerships and the general price level Brisbane must be a boomtown! Arriving from Sydney we spent two nights in the Limes hotel in the Fortitude Valley precinct. Taking the CitySights hop on, hop off coach in nearby Chinatown gave us a good first impression of Brisbane, among other a spectacular view from Mount Coot-tha. The coach ticket is also good for the city cat, frequently cruising catamarans that cross the river at several points of interest. [nggallery id=31] Fine dining is available in modern waterfront restaurants, e.g. the rather formal Aria or JellyFish with its humorous manager. He came rushing out of the restaurant complaining that he didn’t quite make it onto the photograph underneath ;-) The Southbank is packed with restaurants and has become an entertainment district. It stretches from the museums on the waterfront, the Parklands at Southbank to the numerous restaurants. The museums can be reached via a stylish new pedestrian bridge. Bill Bryson in A Sunburned Country takes to the region but unfortunately he doesn’t have as much time here as wished for. Still, it’s very amusing reading on Australian peculiarities as observed by a thoughtful foreigner. Amazon.com Widgets ## Limes Hotel – Boutique Hotel in Brisbane Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/limes-hotel-boutique-hotel-in-brisbane The Limes hotel is a small and fine boutique hotel situated in Brisbane’s thriving Fortitude Valley quarter. Limes Hotel Rooms and Amenities The Limes hotel rooms are small, yet functional. The compulsory Nespresso machine and tasty brownies make for a good start into a busy day of discovering Brisbane. Free broadband wifi internet access and nicely smelling products from Oxytane in the bathroom cater nicely to traveler’s needs. The welcome drink is offered on the rooftop bar. The bar is very popular with a young crowd. On Sundays there will be a rooftop cinema event. Limes Hotel in Fortitude Valley Quarter The hotel’s direct neighbourhood consists of government office buildings, furniture shops and car dealerships. But within a short walking distance you will find numerous entertainment opportunities such as the restaurants around Emporium shopping mall with Maroccan style Mecca Bah, Asian Wagamama and the likes. Other recommended places include nicely designed Cru on busy James Street, Harvey’s and some more. The Limes hotel doesn’t have its own restaurant, hence Harvey’s is one of the closest breakfast sites if you prefer not to have it in the room. Chinatown with its countless restaurants is also just a short walk away as well as classy tapas dining at Ortiga on Brunswick street. The hotel staff is very helpful in finding an appropriate dining option. The closest stop of the Citysights city tour coach (hop-on, hop-off) is in Chinatown at Duncan and Ann street next to the shopping mall. As per usual the city tour coach offers a good first impression of points of interest to which to return at a later point in time. The coach ticket is also valid for the City Cats, catamarans cruising up and down Brisbane river. ## Byron Bay, New South Wales, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/byron-bay-new-south-wales-australia Byron Bay is located just off the Pacific Highway, 175km south of Brisbane. With its numerous beaches, unspoilt hinterland, and relaxed lifestyle, Byron Bay is a popular tourist destination. This stylish coastal village with its cafes, bistros and restaurants offers something for everyone. And the shopping experience is unique – with its wide range of outlets and clothing shops, even men can spend a whole day shopping and buying some cool Billabong or Speedo shorts :-) Walter got himself, among other…, very stylish “Josh style” linen shorts. VERY comfy! We stayed at the stylish Byron Resort and Spa at Byron Bay, which we can highly recommend. Cape Byron Lighthouse Cape Byron is Australia mainland’s most easterly point. The Cape Byron Lighthouse is not only the most easterly light, but it’s also Australia’s most powerful Lighthouse. It was built in 1901 and for a century alerted passing ships to the dangers of the coast. Standing on a bald rocky headland with a precipitous cliff, Cape Byron offers a stunning view. If you are lucky and in season, you might see some dolphins or whales! Lamington National Park From Byron Bay we made an excursion to the Lamington National park, in the Gold Coast Hinterland. Lamington National Park is known for its natural beauty, rainforests, bird life, ancient trees, waterfalls, walking tracks and mountain views. A very spectacular tree top walk allows for walks through the canopy of the rainforest. It is made up of 9 suspension bridges and with its 180 meters in length this tree top walk was the first of its kind in Australia. It is a very special feeling walking 15 meters above the ground. Along the tree top walk there are also two observation decks (accessible via ladder) which enable people to climb even higher into the tree tops, offering a breathtaking view over the rainforest canopy. Needless to say that you will enjoy the outlook only if you don’t suffer from fear of heights! Amazon.com Widgets ## The Byron Resort and Spa, Byron Bay, Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/the-byron-resort-and-spa-byron-bay-australia The Byron at Byron Resort and Spa is an exceptionally stylish design accomodation embedded in tropical rainforest. Just a short drive outside of Byron Bay it offers a relaxed atmosphere in very generous suites. The Byron at Byron Bay in Australia’s Gold Coast just south of Brisbane is a perfect base for hiking, golf and shopping in nearby Byron Bay. View large map ## Fraser Island – Kingfisher Bay Resort Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/fraser-island-kingfisher-bay-resort Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island. Although it consists of 95% sand it features a dense rainforest offering a healthy diet to dingos, swamp wallabies, turtles, snakes, birds and the like. Fraser Island What to Do Attractions include sand tracks to the golden sands of Seventy Five-Mile Beach Fresh water creeks like Eli Creek Rusting shipwrecks such as the Maheno’s hulk on 75-Mile Beach The coloured sands of the The Pinnacles The former logging site Central Station. From there streches an easy 40 minutes hike along the Wanggoolba Creek boardwalk in the sub-tropical rainforest. Lake McKenzie offers safe swimming in clear waters and walking on sandy shorelines. The sand can serve as peeling cream, it’s that soft. A 45 minutes ferry transfer takes guests from River Heads near Hervey Bay to the Kingfisher Bay. Unfortunately we had a rainy day on our one-day tour… The Kingfisher Bay Resort offers eco tourism, three restaurants and ranger-guided walks for a nature based experience. [flickr-gallery mode=”photoset” photoset=”72157625628720684″] Tours can be booked online with Fraser Explorer Tours ## Hyatt Regency Coolum PGA Championship Golf Course Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/queensland/hyatt-regency-pga-championship-golf-course Off of Coolum Beach near Noosa Heads on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, Australia, Hyatt Regency offers a beautyfully designed 18-hole PGA championship golf course. Home to the Australian PGA Golf Championship Designed by renowned golf course architect Robert Trent Jones Jr, the Hyatt Regency Coolum golf course features numerous bunkers, creeks and little lakes. Even Tiger and the other world’s best golfers may show up in Coolum shortly. First the fairways seem straighforward. After loosing a couple of balls in lakes and creeks you notice quickly that a thoughtful strategic and straight game is a must on this course… It shouldn’t come as a surprise when playing in Australia, but yes, there may be the eventual cangaroo or lizard in your way. The Cobra rental equipment is up-to-date, you can even hire golf shoes. From the Hyatt Regency it’s a short drive to the beaches and shops in Noosa Heads. ## Sydney Citytrip Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/sydney-citytrip-attractions-point-of-interest-hotel Out of a one month stay in Australia we spent 2 full days in Sydney. The Establishment hotel in the Rocks district near the harbour is awesome, we can highly recommend it. Sydney Points of Interest A good start is to take the hop-on hop-off open-top double-decker bus nearby the hotel in George Street. That’s also where the main shopping area is. The coach takes you to the main points of interest, i.e. Sydney Tower, Darling harbour, Opera house, harbour and the districts in-between. Numerous and surprisingly well designed waterfront restaurants offer food, drinks and decks to watch the world go by. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625486910033″ type=”gallery”] There’s a whole choice of harbour tours. We opted for the 1-hour tour that offers splendid views of the opera house, Sydney’s skyline, villa quarters by the shoreline, Darling harbour with Captain Cook’s Endeavor sailship near the maritime museum. Bill Bryson’s ‘A Sunburned Country‘ is excellent reading on Australian pecularities. Don’t miss the section on cricket. It’s hilarious ;-) // Amazon.com Widgets ## Sydney Opera House: Shiny Architecture & Acoustic Space Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/sydney-opera-house-architecture We are all familiar with the world famous photos of the Sydney opera house. Seeing it with your own eyes seems quite a different story, though. Jorn Utzon’s renowned design is even more spectacular than I would have imagined! Sydney Opera House SOH – Shiny Architecture Be it in the twilight or gleaming in the sunshine, Jorn Utzon’s Sydney opera house is a captivating phenomenon. Experiencing the shell structure personally makes a deep impression both visually and physically. Concert Hall at Sydney Opera House [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625486557925″ type=”gallery”] I warmly recommend the 1 hour Essentials Guided Tour. Tour guide Nick does an awesome job in introducing the main aspects of the building. Here’s a comprehensive description by another visitor. ## Establishment Hotel, the Rocks, Sydney Source: https://travelmemo.com/australia/new-south-wales/establishment-hotel-the-rocks-sydney Trendy design accomodation in the heart of Sydney downtown: We highly recommend the Establishment hotel in The Rocks district! The Establishment – Design Boutique Hotel We found the Establishment hotel to be conveniently located in the vibrant Rocks district in Sydney. Within walking distance we found attractions such as the Sydney opera house, the harbour bridge, waterfront restaurants as well as the Sydney tower or shopping along George street. The Establishment is a carefully designed boutique hotel with numerous amenities. We liked our hotel room a lot. But also the Establishment bar, the Australian fine dining restaurant Est and the rooftop Asian restaurant Hemmesphere are impressive. The personnel is cheerful and very helpful. We found our way around easily. ## Travel itinerary for a one month trip to Australia Source: https://travelmemo.com/site-review/travel-itinerary-australia-one-month-trip For those looking at a one month stay in Australia we suggest the following itinerary that we travelled ourselves as a couple from mid November to mid December. Travel Itinerary Eastern and South Australia Sydney We arrived in Sydney and stayed there during 2 full days (arriving and leaving the day before and afterwards). If you are comfortable in a small and intimate setup we recommend The Establishment boutique hotel located in the central Rocks District. Brisbane The flight from Sydney to Brisbane takes 1.5 hours and ends up in the next timezone. We hired a rental car for 7 days and took North to Fraser Island and then South to Byron Bay before returning to Brisbane. Cairns From Brisbane we took the next flight (2 hours 20 minutes) to Cairns. We stayed comfortably in The Hotel Cairns. With a rental car we drove on the Captain Cook Highway northwards which led us to Mossman, to the Silky Oaks Lodge in the Daintree National Park. We stayed there fore three days during which we made a one day trip to Cape Tribulation. Veeery nice! Great Barrier Reef After the expedition to the rainforest we boarded the Spirit of Freedom back in Cairns for a three day dive trip to the Great Barrier Reef. Needless to say that we spent a fantastic time on the reef. Melbourne It was then time to say good bye to Queensland; we flew from Cairns to Melbourne, Victoria, which is approximately a 3.5 hours flight. In Melbourne we stayed one night at the Hotel Lindrum on Flinders Street. The hotel is located in the heart of the city, near the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) and the Rod Laver arena. Great Ocean Road From Melbourne we then drove along the amazing Great Ocean Raod with a rental car – what a stunning coast line! If you go to the southern part of Australia, you shouldn’t miss this part! Grampians National Park Our journey continued and led us to the Grampians National Park. We stayed two nights at the wonderful Meringa Springs Lodge which we highly recommend! Kangaroo Island After arriving in Adelaide we took the plane for an awesome two days trip on Kangaroo Island. We spent two tremendous days and stayed at the Sea Scape Lodge. This was the perfect final highlight of our one month trip to Australia. And while planning your trip or during the long flight to remote Australia don’t miss Bill Bryson’s book In a Sunburned Country. It offers very amusing reading on Australian peculiarities as observed by a thoughtful foreigner. Printed Travelogue Read my Travelogue about Victoria, Australia, as published in the Californian VIVID Magazine in their August/September 2011 issue. Cover of Vivid Magazine and my travelogue on Victoria, Australia vividmagazine.net ## Grand Resort Bad Ragaz – Spa and wellness at its finest Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/grand-resort-bad-ragaz-spa-wellness-finest The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz offers a unique combination of luxury hotel accommodations and gastronomy, wellness facilities with own thermal water source, medical health center, business and events center and golf course. Rooms and suites of the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz 290 stylish rooms and suites furnished with exclusive materials and generous appointments wrap the guest in ultimate comfort. In the Spa Suites, for example: – You can set the water temperature of the whirlpool bath digitally to say 37o – The bath is lit by Swarovski crystal luminaires – The shower, too, flows digitally and moreover serves as a steam room – Air pressure controls make it easy to adjust the bed’s firmness to suit – Naturally, a walk in closet is standard – B&O flat screen TVs in the suite and in the bath are of accustomed quality – The taps dispense the Bad Ragaz thermal water! See rates and availability of Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. Living room of the Spa Loft Superior Suites in Bad Ragaz Spa The To B. Wellbeing Spa in the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz With a surface area of 5,500 m2 the To B. Wellbeing&Spa counts among Switzerland‘s largest wellness oases. It is a true feel-good oasis for mind and body. The main attraction is the Tamina hot spring that gushes out of a nearby gorge. Whether you enjoy one of 10 indoor and outdoor pools (of course, all filled with water from the spring,) choose to sweat it out in one of the three saunas or a steam room, or take advantage of the many expert wellbeing treatments available … one thing is clear: here you can relax and unwind, tune out and recharge your batteries. Room facilities in the Bad Ragaz Kursaal Business & Events Center Seeking an exclusive location for your conference? In this as well, expect the very best from the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. The various rooms available in the Business & Events Center are right for business meetings, conferences, as well as motivational team workshops, as in the Victor Hugo Lounge, to name just one: Lounge with ambiance in the Business Center Exclusive boardroom with retractable table center In addition, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz offers luxury hotel accommodations and gastronomy, wellness facilities with their own thermal spring, medical health and fitness centers, and a golf course. That’s it. Gastronomy in the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz The culinary heights achieved in the various restaurants range from traditional regional cuisine through Asian and Mediterranean specialities to the most sophisticated gourmet creations. More images of the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625282695230″ type=”gallery”] Variety in the “World’s Leading Hotel” The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz commands a very broad set of offerings in a perfect blend of the traditional and the modern. The best way to find out more is to let the enthusiastic representatives of the Grand Resort present these manifold features to you personally. Kathrin Boerger with the architectural model of the vast Grand Resort Bad Ragaz ## Buddakan: Fine Asian Dining in Manhattan’s Meatpack District Source: https://travelmemo.com/united-states/fine-asian-dining-manhattan-meatpack-district Check out Buddakan for delicious Asian food in a spectacular venue! Spectacular Venue @ Buddakan, NYC A stunning and trendy must-eat restaurant in the heart of New York’s Meatpack district. The Buddakan restaurant is located at West 16th Street and Ninth Avenue. Check out New York Deals! [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157625019379502″ type=”gallery”] ## Guarda Val – Romantic Boutique Hotel in Lenzerheide Source: https://travelmemo.com/switzerland/guardaval-lenzerheide-romantic-boutique-hotel On the hamlet of Sporz, on 1’600 metres above sea level, you will find the charming and highly recommended alpine design and lifestyle hotel Guarda Val. Hotel Guarda Val The 11 rooms of the alpine boutique hotel Guarda Val are located in former huts and barns. Since the renovation in May 2009 the rooms appear in a very new and charming alpine design. The Guarda Val conveys an air of natural romance with a contemporary alpine lifestyle and an authentic Maiensaess feeling. The gourmet restaurant ‘Guarda Val’ with 16 Gault Millau points receives its guests in an elegant ambiance. The food was delicious and the service impeccable. We were very impressed with the sommelier who gave us a very good recommendation on an excellent grappa :-) The SPA of the hotel was recently promoted by the women’s magazine Annabelle. We didn’t use it though, since after a golf round on a sunny and warm day we just didn’t feel having a bath in the Hot Tub or a sweatbath. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157624100281511″ type=”gallery”] The golf course at Lenzerheide was a bit bumpy due to the weather the previous days, but the mountain panorama was just breathtaking! The next morning we enjoyed the rich breakfast buffet in the former cowhouse – and again – we were spoiled with delicious food. Needless to say, that we travelled back home to the city with a certain melancholy – but perfectly happy. The bill, though, might not exactly be a bargain, but the value for money was excellent! ## The Lion King – Mating Lions on Game Drive at Kichaka Lodge Source: https://travelmemo.com/south-africa/mating-lions-kichaka-lodge-safari-game-drive Mating lions on the game drive at Kichaka Lodge. We were not aware that the lioness will take the initiative and tell the lion king when to get up. And that she will do that every 10 minutes for two weeks during the mating season… That’s probably where the ranger’s confidence came from when he went ‘They’re going to mate, watch this!’ Needless to say that at the lion’s first attempt my camera didn’t work! I was desperately pressing the shutter release but it just wouldn’t click! After the lion was done, I found out that the memory chip was full already from all those giraffes and elephants. What an amateur I was! But then I got lucky because by the time I had erased a couple of duplicate pictures the lioness started over again and we got to take these pictures here :) Mating Lions Check out the luxury lodge that goes with this safari experience here! ## Safari at Kichaka Luxury Game Lodge Source: https://travelmemo.com/south-africa/kichaka-lodge-safari-south-africa When travelling on South Africa’s Garden Route make sure to spend two days on a private safari game, say in Lalibela’s Kichaka luxury lodge. Lalibela Game Reserve’s Kichaka Lodge What a place! From the moment we arrive we are being looked after by the outstanding staff. The place is overwhelming! A tremendous Lodge embedded in an amazing landscape. For us it seems like heaven on earth… Our villa ‘Honeysuckle’ offers an exceptional level of comfort and luxury as well as a full panoramic view. Enjoy absolute privacy on the villa terrace! Sign of our “Honeysuckle” villa Spacious and luxurious Kichaka suite While having lunch on the terrace of the main lodge, which provides a magnificent viewing deck, we are surprised by ‘Harry’ – Kichaka’s house hippo, which just came out of the water hole. What a fantastic welcome! :-) Private Game Drive In the late afternoon go on a private safari game with the ranger. We had excellent sightings of giraffes, elephants, rhinos and buffalos, as well as zebras and numerous species of antelopes. But the game drive’s absolute highlight are the mating lions! Mating lions with a roar Private game drive at Kichaka lodge Before you return to the lodge you are shown to a sundowner. What a glorious feeling being all alone in the wilderness! Sunset at Kichaka Lodge There was only one thing which could top it all … enjoying this graceful peace with a “sundowner”… “Sundowner” on the game drive However, it got quite cold after sunset, we therefore appreciated the warm tea and the Sherry at the fireplace back at Kichaka Lodge. Later enjoy a delicious 5 star cuisine dinner and the outstanding service of the staff in a romantic ambiance in the dinner saloon. BTW, nearby Addo Elephant Park makes it into this guide on the 6 best South African national parks. Here are some more impressions from our awesome trip to South Africa: [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157622963032536″ type=”gallery”] Kichaka website: lalibela.net/kichaka-lodge ## Amazing Garden Route – St. Francis to Port Elizabeth Source: https://travelmemo.com/south-africa/garden-route-southafrica-st-francis-port-elizabeth After having spent a few days in Knysna, our journey along the amazing Garden Route continues towards St. Francis and Port Elizabeth. We stop at the Tsitsikamma National Park – a long coastal strip between Nature’s Valley and the mouth of the Storms River. In the park the visitor finds an almost untouched natural and spectacular scenery. There are several trails; for example, the Otter Trail starts at the Storms River camp and the South African National Parks has laid out several short trails for day visitors. The Suspension Bridge and Lookout Trail is an easy stroll. On the other side of the bridge there is a short but very steep climb to a lookout point from which you have a spectacular view. The next stop of our trip is in St. Francis Bay, which is a paradise for watersports enthusiasts: It boasts white sandy beaches and ideal conditions for surfing. But St. Francis Bay is also very fascinating because of the numerous canals. Lots of superb de luxe holiday homes are built along these canals from where one can get to the Kromme River by boat. Boat trip on St. Francis Bay's canals About 10 kilometres south of St. Francis Bay lies Cape St. Francis with its impressive lighthouse. There you can have beautiful walks or just admire the breathtaking sunset. Oh … and by the way, don’t miss the delicious fish restaurant Chokka Block in Port St. Francis. Chokka Block is the restaurant with the reputation of the best calamari in the village and fresh fish straight from the fisher boats! Try the Kingklip, a firm white fish typical to South Africa. Yummy! St. Francis is also very well known for the world class golf course designed by Jack Niklaus. The course is characterised by undulating terrain, greens and variation in length and direction. Needless to say, that it is quite challenging to play, but you get rewarded by the fantastic scenery! A few days later our journey continued and we arrived in Port Elizabeth where we stayed at The Windermere – a very charming boutique hotel. Port Elizabeth is South Africa’s second oldest city and also the commercial capital of the Eastern Cape. Port Elizabeth has many historical attractions. It was The Red Location Museum though, which left a lasting impression on us. It is well worth a visit if you are interested in the history of apartheid and the struggle for freedom. The museum has scooped several prestigious awards. ## Amazing Garden Route – Knysna and surroundings Source: https://travelmemo.com/south-africa/garden-route-southafrica-knysna-pezula-simola The Garden Route in South Africa is one of the most amazing scenic routes. From George to Port Elizabeth it takes you on a journey through picture perfect beaches and unspoilt wilderness. Our journey started in Knysna where we stayed at the luxury boutique accomodation Kanonkop Guest House. The Hotel is located on Kanonkop Hill above Knysna. We had the beautiful ‘Forest’ Room. The hosts Chris, Mark and Samantha Conyers show a great hospitality. They gave us some great tips, for example for dinner they recommended the Restaurant Sirocco. where we had a delicious seafood platter. During the following days we visit several national parks, such as the Nature Valleys, where you have a breathtaking view of the coast. Another spectacular scenery is the Goukamma Nature Reserve. The nature reserve includes a long beach and an extensive dune field. On the recommendation of Chris the next day we went to Monkeyland – the worlds first free roaming multi-specie primate sanctuary. Next to the Monkeyland there is Birds of Eden park. With 23’000 sqm it is the largest free flight bird aviary in the world. http://www.birdsofeden.co.za/ After this wonderful day among all those birds and monkeys, we had a reservation for dinner at the turkish delight Restaurant Chutzpah at Phantom Forest Lodge – a luxury eco reserve destination in afromontane forest. The Garden Route is also a very popular golf destination with world class courses adorning dramatic cliff tops and scenic countryside. Our golfing favorites of the Garden Route between George und Port Elizabeth were Simola, Pezula, Goose Valley and St. Francis Links. Pezula Championship Golf Course is a breathtaking, award-winning 18-hole golf course and is rated amongst the best and the most scenic golf courses in the world. http://www.pezula.com Another overwhelming Golf course is the Simola Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature course on the Garden Route, reflecting the maestro’s philosophy of attuning the layout and design to the natural lie of the land. Just awesome!! http://www.simolaestate.co.za/golf/ ## Sicily Roundtrip – what an experience! Source: https://travelmemo.com/italy/sicily-roundtrip-boutique-hotels-golf Sicily in spring: We were expecting burnt soil and found blooming meadows instead! Sicily boasts spectacular landscapes with white villages nestled into the cliffs, nice food, beautiful golf courses and cosy boutique hotels. Spectacular landscape in Sicily [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157619441539887″ type=”gallery”] We highly recommend the boutique hotels Belli Resort in Gratteri or Cambiacavallo. They both offer very stylish and careful lodging. Those who are into art may want to spend a night at the Art Hotel Atelier sul Mare in Castel di Tusa. The room ‘The Water Carriers’ is quite something! Art Hotel Atelier sul mare Itinerary for 12 days on a relaxed roundtrip From Catania (Una Hotel Palace) you take north to Castiglione/Linguaglossa (Hotel Il Nido dell’ Etna) for a round of excellent golf in Il Picciolo (the rental equipment was brand new) and then to Taormina (Hotel Monte Tauro). From there the route follows the coast via Messina to Castel di Tusa (Atelier sul Mare), Cefalù and Gratteri (Belli Resort). From Sicily’s second 18 hole golf course Le Madonie close to Gratteri we drove south via Piazza Armeria to Caltagirone. Modica, Ragusa, Pozzallo (Cambiacavallo) and Noto are the picturesque cities around. Via Siracusa and its ancient Ortigia peninsula we took back to Catania’s international airport. We enjoyed this 12-day roundtrip with a rental car at the end of May/beginning of June. Holidays in Sicily are indeed as nice as everybody keeps saying ;-) Update Hideaway Report Hideaway Report travel booking customers chose Italy as top destination. Hideaway Report hotel recommendations for Sicily look very promising…, e.g. the Verdura Golf & Spa Resort. ## 18-Hole Golf at The Cascades in Soma Bay, Egypt Source: https://travelmemo.com/egypt/golf-cascades-soma-bay-egypt Soma Bay is an exclusive Red Sea resort in Egypt. It’s 45 kilometers from Hurghada, to which it is just a short 4 hour flight from Central Europe. Sunshine all year round, the mild temperatures and fantastic panoramic views of desert mountains make Soma Bay an ideal place for relaxation and recreation. La Residence des Cascades Positioned on the highest point of the Peninsula of Soma Bay lays La Residence des Cascades. This resort sits majestically amid The Cascades 18-hole golf course with panoramic views of the fairways and sea. It has more than 200 comfortable guest rooms plus some luxurious suites. The hotel offers a variety of dining experiences since there are several restaurants. One of them is “L’Albatros”, an elegant restaurant featuring fine dining in an intimate atmosphere. Don’t miss it! The service was excellent (also in the main restaurant) and the staff was very friendly. Our waiter Mamood even wanted to invite us to his wedding! :-) Garden of Les Cascades The Cascade Golf Course The Cascades Championship Golf Course is a 18 hole, par 72 course designed by Gary Player. The course combines links and desert, which makes a very fascinating contrast between the colours of desert and clear blue waters. Tee-Off hole 9 We enjoyed the course very much, however it was quite challenging to play since it was always very windy. Nevertheless, we can highly recommend this beautiful golf course. Hole 1 The Beach at Soma Bay The waters of the Red Sea are world famous for their teeming marine life and clear visibility. We only made short trip with a glass bottom boat and saw some very nice coloured fishes. Soma Bay offers a variety of watersport activities. Since it is quite windy, it is also a paradise for wind surfers, sailers and kitesurfers! But also just when relaxing at the beach, Soma Bay offers an awesome panoramic view of the desert mountains. Get some more impressions from our Flickr photo gallery below [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157612105595379″ type=”gallery”] Check out egypt holidays from The Holiday Place! ## Golf in the Algarve, Portugal Source: https://travelmemo.com/portugal/golf-algarve-vila-valverde-portugal The Algarve, Portugal’s most southern province is famous for its spectacular scenery along a fabulous coastline. The main golf season is from late autumn to late spring. With its mild climate, breathtaking scenery, friendly people and excellent golf courses, the Algarve offer everything to make a memorable golf holiday. Vila Valverde design & country hotel One of the hotel we can highly recommend along the Algare, is Vila Valverde in Praia da Luz. This beautiful manor house has been converted into a desgin boutique hotel with many lovely details in decoration and wonderful colours. The rooms are very nicely designed, offering high class comfort and also a huge terrace to relax and enjoy privacy. Golf Courses Parque da Floresta is one of Europe’s most spectacular golf courses. Designed by the prestigious Spanish architect Pepe Gancedo, this golf course is certainly a “must” for all golf-lovers. Another sophisticated golf course is Quinta do Lago which enjoys the full spectrum of nature’s bounty. There are three courses at Quinta do Lago which offer different challenges; The Northcourse, the Southcourse and Laranjal. The Pine Cliffs 9-hole golf course is famous throughout the world, as there is a challenging PAR 3 crossing the chasm below the cliffs and offering an overwhelming view over the Atlantic Ocean. Where we lost most of our golf balls, was on the Vale do Lobo Royal Course though. The Royal Golf Course is amidst some pine trees and beautiful lakes surrounded by wild flowers make this golf course even more spectacular. The famous whole 16th, with cliff-top carryover, is one of the most celebrated golfing images in the world! A tremendous golf course, but not too easy I would say! :-) Vila Sol Vilamoura Spa & Golf resort The Vila Sol Spa & Golf Resort is set in a very scenic natural surrounding. The spacious rooms offer private balconies overlooking the garden and pool. Vila Sol Golf has 27 holes designed by the prestigious architect Donald Steel, divided into three different courses according to the difficulty level. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157607969375553″ type=”gallery”] ## Cultural City Trip to St. Petersburg, Russia Source: https://travelmemo.com/russia/cultural-citytrip-to-stpetersburg-russia St. Petersburg, the city of the tsars, is a perfect destination for people looking for a cultural city trip. St. Petersburg’s history and rich cultural traditions have inspired some of the modern world’s greatest literature, music and visual art. Grand Hotel Europe We stayed at the Grand Hotel Europe, one of St. Petersburg’s premier hotels. The hotel is situated on the famous Nevsky Prospekt, which is just a short walk away from St. Petersburg’s most famous attractions. The rooms at the Grand Hotel Europe are spacious and classically elegant. St. Isaac’s Cathedral St. Isaac’s Cathedral is the largest Russian orthodox cathedral in the city and impresses with its facades which are decorated with sculptures and massive granite columns, while the interior is decorated with incredibly detailed mosaic icons. While we were visiting the cathedral we had the chance to listen to a beautiful choir concert. The Church of the Savior on Blood The Church of the Savior on Blood (or known as “Erlöserkirche” in German) is one of the main sights of the city. It was built between 1883 and 1907 and was officially called the Resurrection of Christ Church. It has an outstanding and varied collection of mosaic icons. Very impressive! Don’t miss to see this masterpiece. Russian Folklore Night at Belosselsky-Belozersky Palace On our first night in St. Petersburg we visited a Russian folklore night at Belosselsky-Belozersky Palace, a neo-baroque palace at Nevsky Prospekt. The show was very impressive and colourful with all the classic Russian costumes. The Hermitage Museum The State Hermitage Museum is a “must” when visiting St. Petersburg! With more than three million works of art the Hermitage is one of the largest and oldest museums of the world! Four out of six buildings of the main museum complex are open to the public. The main building of the Hermitage Museum is Winter Palace, which was once the main residence of the Russian tsars. The museum is especially strong in Italian renaissance and French impressionist paintings, as well as possessing outstanding collections of works by Rembrandt, Picasso, and Matisse. Experts say that if you spend only a minute looking at each exhibit in the Hermitage, you would need 11 years to see them all! Well … we suggest you take a guided tour instead! Private Opera and Ballet Performance at Yusupov Palace On our last night in St. Petersburg we had the chance to visit the Yusupov Palace (also known as Moika Palace). This yellow building along the Moika river was once the residence of the wealthy and respected Yusupov family. The history of the palace dates back to the epoch of Peter the Great, and apparently this palace has seen one of the most dramatic episodes in Russia’s history – the murder of Grigory Rasputin! However, the story about Rasputin’s death is much in dispute… Nevertheless, this palace full of history is worth a visit. We had a very impressive and fascinating tour leading through the beatifully recreated interiors of the palace. The evening was crowned by a private opera performance followed by a russian gala dinner. What an awesome experience! Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin Before our trip to St. Petersburg ended, we went to Pushkin, to visit Catherine’s Palace which is named after Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great, who ruled Russia for two years after her husband’s death. With its size, the blue and white facades and the Russian baroque style the palace is quite impressive. But the interior of the Catherine Palace is no less spectacular! Especially the renowned Amber room is very extraordinary, but also the Great Hall, also known as the Hall of Light, is not less impressive. St. Petersburg with all its cultural and architectural attractions is really a tip for people interested in history and culture! Get some more impressions from our Flickr photo gallery below [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157607668880373″ type=”gallery”] ## Colorful Rajasthan Tour with Private Driver in Northern India Source: https://travelmemo.com/india/rajasthan-india-colorful-roundtrip-private-driver Rajasthan tour based out of Delhi. We took to a 3-week roundtrip with our driver Ashok and his air-conditioned SUV. Many times we stayed at spectacular heritage Maharaja palaces. I have always been an avid traveler and have visited many places around the world. I have always been interested in exploring new cultures and meeting new people. As a child, I was always fascinated with the thought of travelling to Rajasthan. I grew up hearing and reading many interesting stories related to India, which made me even more attracted to the place. The stories about their rich culture, palaces, people, desert, camels, traditions, foods, festivals, etc. In May I took a trip to fairly hot but dry India. Initially, I stayed in Delhi for a few days and got a chance to come closer to the rich Indian culture and learn about the country’s history by visiting the bazaars and monuments like the Red Fort in old Delhi. Finally, the day came and I was all set to head to Rajasthan. The staff at my Delhi hotel was very cooperative and helpful. My private driver Ashok had been to Rajasthan many times and he had excellent knowledge of the main attractions. He was a very experienced driver and always found a safe way in the busiest traffic and made sure that the trip was safe and comfortable. [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157600236131876″ type=”gallery”] Our first destination in Rajasthan was Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur. Located in the heart of Rajasthan, Udaipur is a city of beautiful palaces and lakes. Adorning the banks of Lake Pichola (and the famous James Bond hotel as featured in ‘Octopussy’) and a standing witness to the historic City Palace, The Oberoi Udaivilas captures all the romance and splendor of a royal era. It reflects the rich heritage of the Mewar region of Rajasthan with its rambling courtyards, gentle rippling fountains, reflection pools and verdant gardens. Pool and feather at the Oberoi Udaivilas hotel Stunning architecture showcases a picture of majesty resplendent with pavilions and domes that lead you to a journey of discovery, and the interiors embellished with decorative domes, hand painted frescoes, intricate mirror work and beautifully crafted artifacts create an ambiance of regal splendor. Staying at The Oberoi Udaivilas was a once in a lifetime experience. Tastefully decorated rooms with terraces that open on to semi-private swimming pools present picturesque views and are a unique feature of Udaivilas, and the beautifully designed suites with private swimming pools and outdoor dining pavilions are an exclusive retreat. The restaurant serves a fine local as well as international cuisine. I wish I could stay here for some more days, but since I was on a package tour I had to leave for my next destinations, Samode Palace Heritage Luxury Hotel in Deogarh Mahal, Fort Mehrangarh in Jodhpur and Ranthambore Tiger Reserve among many more… After spending three weeks in beautiful Rajasthan, I and my driver Ashok headed back to Delhiin his air-conditioned SUV, and I must say that the 4 wheel drive trip to Rajasthan from and to Delhi is an experience I will cherish throughout my life. Booked in Switzerland with India specialist tour operator Intens Travel. Rajasthan Tourism offers this great resource. Other stylish hotels in India: ## Dive Cruise in the Maldives – Manta Rays near Cocos Island Source: https://travelmemo.com/maldives/dive-cruise-in-the-maldives-manta-ray-cocos-island Dive cruise aboard the Blue Horizon II. We found the manta rays off Cocos Island just underneath the water surface. Hence the nice lighting conditions for a simple little digicam… Manta rays in the Maldives near Cocos Island Horizon II Liveaboard Lisa, Hervé, their team and a couple of guests. Blue Horizon Website ## Exploring the Wide Variety of Beautiful Tenerife, Canary Island Source: https://travelmemo.com/spain/tenerife/exploring-beautiful-tenerife Tenerife is the largest and probably the most populous of the seven Canary Islands. It is the perfect year round destination with a wide variety of landscapes, many attractions and sports activities offering something for everyone. Sheraton La Caleta Resort & Spa, Costa Adeje We stayed at The Sheraton La Caleta Resort & Spa which is situated on the southern coast of Tenerife, in Costa Adeje, near the small fishing port of La Caleta. Sunset by the pool – Sheraton La Caleta Resort Sports activities on Tenerife If you’re thinking of playing some holiday golf, Tenerife is the ideal destination with sensational courses and stunning fairways. From La Caleta Resort there are several courses within close proximity, such as the golf course Costa Adeje, Los Palos, Golf del Sur, etc. Buenavista Golf Course But Tenerife is also very well known to discover and enjoy the fascinating underwater world of the Canary Islands. We got to know BOB-Diving. BOB stands for Breathing Observation Bubble and is an underwater scooter for individual use. It offers underwater fun of traditional scuba diving, with much less effort. You have to try this out! Katja & Walter bob-diving Teide Nationalpark The Teide National Park is located in the centre of Tenerife. It is centered around Mount Teide (3718m) which is the highest mountain of the island. The scenery is simply breathtaking – an entire color palette from the different types of volcanic rock and different plants. El Teide National Park And when it comes to sunset the park becomes paradise on earth! Loro Parque Loro Parque (Spanish for ‘parrot park’) is a zoo located on the North of the island, near Puerto de la Cruz. The sub-tropical nature reserve is one of the major attractions in Tenerife where you can find a big variety of animals. We spent a whole day in the park and had great fun! Chimpanzee at Loro Parque Get some more impressions from our Flickr photo gallery below [slickr-flickr search=sets set=”72157594344875601″ type=”gallery”] ## Romantic Getaway at Geniesser- and Kuschelhotel Gams, Austria Source: https://travelmemo.com/austria/romantic-getaway-at-geniesser-and-kuschelhotel-gams-austria If you are looking for a romantic getaway in Austria, we can recommend the Geniesser- and Kuschelhotel Gams. The Hotel is located in Bezau at Bregenzerwald, a valley between Lake Constance and the Arlberg. It is the ideal destination for gourmet holidays amidst pure nature. Geniesser- and Kuschelhotel Gams The Hotel Gams is composed by the original building and the recently built “Blütenschloss” with the romantic suites featuring a nice fireplace, a whirlpool and a romantic canopy bed. Enjoy and relax at the “Da Vinci Spa” – a generous wellness lounge with various swimmingpools, a selection of satisfying saunas and an exotic range of beauty treatments. Don’t miss the gourmet dinner at their Restaurant! It was delicious and service in Austria is always very friendly and outstanding :-) And if you are looking for a special stay, watch our for their original “dream days” packages. [nggallery id=40]