You could say I picked Brussels, the capital of Belgium, as the starting point for my 5-day, 5-city trip by drawing a circle around it on the map with a set of dividers.
From now on, I will forever associate Belgium with slippery cobblestone paving. As I exited the train station, I found all the streets around Brussels Central Station blocked. The annual marathon was in full press, and I almost missed my hotel’s entrance because I had to be hellishly careful not to slip and fall down in my leather-soled shoes while dragging the suitcase behind me and eyeing the running horde.
That said, I felt very much at home in Belgium’s capital right from the get go. My memories of Brussels dated back at least 20 years, and I was pleased to see that the city had shed its former grunginess. Still remaining is the deep fry cloud that hangs over the whole city. The “fragrance” is everywhere. When you arrive by train in Brussels Central Station, expect to be greeted by the intense sweet/waffles variety…
Brussels downtown
My exploration started on a Sunday afternoon while the marathon runners were still coursing through the city. An easy stroll took me to the Grande Place in the heart of the quaint Old Town. Walking the narrow streets, I discovered house fronts decorated with gold paint and shop windows full of chocolate, and rows of gabled houses with fascinating facades, scrollwork, and wonderfully weathered walls.
Dispensing with any plan, I simply let my feet take me where they wanted. A sign in a narrow side street caught my attention, and I was rewarded with an impromptu visit to the Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle (Museum of Costume and Lace). I entered the world of the glamorous 1930s, journeyed through a time warp of textiles and fantastic fashions and was fascinated to see how they make the delicate Brussels lace.
Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle (Museum of Costume and Lace) | Rue de la Violette 12 | museeducostumeetdeladentelle.be
Beguiled, I left the museum, sauntered through more streets and under the glass cupola roof of the Galerie Royale St. Hubert. Randomly, I made notes of this or that chocolate address before taking the metro to Louisa. This boulevard is renowned as an exclusive shopping street and yes, you feel somehow as if you are on the Champs Elysee in Paris. Name any of the brands that have cachet, and you’ll find them all lined up here. Since it was Sunday though, I didn’t really feel like shopping. Instead, I was drawn to Place Poelaert with its fabulous view over the city‘s roofs.
I regret not taking the tram for my return trip via Rue Royale to the Place du Palais. Only later did I learn that this would have made for one eye-pleasing ride.
I made Brussels my home base for two days. Antwerp was to be the next day‘s stop on my itinerary followed by Ghent a day later.
A recommended hotel
I stayed in the 9HOTEL CENTRAL close by the Brussels Central Station. This is the perfect city hotel with an inviting lobby and breakfast room, which also doubles as an ideal place for working in the evening. Free WLAN is ubiquitous in the house. I was positively floored that the staff members pictured on the website actually do stand behind the reception desk.
This hotel is recommended for its generously-sized rooms and splendid views – from the 6th floor where I had my room. Thanks to the mirror wall, the room that is already large for a city hotel appears to be even larger.
Incidentally, it is possible to order a flower bouquet for the room when booking the 9Hotel – for an additional €20. Though I love flowers, I stifled the impulse, since I was going to just be spending nights in the room.
The location so close to the Brussels Central Station is ideal. Even for tired feet, the walk from train station to hotel is a piece of cake and happily there was an elevator to ride up to the 6th floor.
Chocolate and such…
Before I left Brussels three days later in direction Liège, I filled my suitcase to the very last cubic centimeter with Belgian chocolate. Mary, a small store, sugary-sweetly decorated, beckoned me invitingly and my visit there turned into special treat: the sales person welcomed me in perfect form and asked if I had heard Mary’s story. I said I hadn‘t, whereupon with an elegant sweep of his hand he pointed to the “Supplier to the Royal Court” emblem on the wall and regaled me with the factory’s history. The chocolate is exceptional, in the classic style; testing it, we noted no taste explosions.
Mary | 28, Rue du Lombard | or Galeries St-Hubert.
The second address that I can recommend without hesitation is ELISABETH. Not only are the window displays sinfully opulent, the chocolate is outstanding. Truly handmade, the packaging is also very beautifully done. Expect to experience extraordinary treats here.
Elisabeth Chocolatier | Rue au beurre 43
Also, under no circumstances skip a visit to Maison Dandoy, the biscuit maker famous for sable biscuits and spiced cookies.
Maison DANDOY | Rue au Beurre 31
The Brussels Card
Shopping and exploring downtown on foot is a perfectly fine way to go. However, should you want to stay a while longer in Brussels and see more, ride the metro, tram, and bus with the BRUSSELS CARD.
The card, available in 24, 48, or 72 hour versions, also offers discounts on museum admissions. It makes sense if you are planning on being in Brussels for more than two days; any less, and it is difficult to reap all of the card‘s benefits. You can also get the card online from VISIT BRUSSELS. I especially liked the themed city walks handed out as handy folding maps by VISIT BRUSSELS.
The Visit Brussels office is located at Rue du Marché aux Herbes 61.
You can view more of my Brussels photos in my Brussels Flickr-Album .
Google-Map with my Brussels Hotspots.
Travel arrangements by Liesbet Vandebroek of VISIT FLANDERS. My thanks also go to Fiorenzo Fässler of Smarket for the support!
