Mowani Mountain Camp is located amidst fascinating rock formations in Namibia’s southern Damaraland. With a bit of luck, you can find the rare desert elephants here – or you can get stuck in a bog! A unique experience of a different kind…
As part of our Namibia tour, Walter and I stayed two nights in the Mowani Mountain Camp (link to their website).
The pictures of this special lodge styled like an African village, harmoniously inserted into the rugged rocky landscape immediately captivated me when I was scouting our trip!
Mowani Mountain Camp in Damaraland
Mowani Mountain Camp is located a little off the gravel road west of Khorixas, well hidden between large round boulders.
Mowani is derived from “M’wane“, which means “the place of God“. A big claim, but absolutely justified! I find it paradisical here from the first moment we set foot in the place.
The central area with the tastefully furnished lounge and the restaurant consists of thatched huts.
Just below it is the small pool with a deck, from where we regularly enjoyed the stunning view of Damaraland’s breathtaking rugged landscape,
The 15 rooms – each a kind of thatched-roof chalet – sit inconspicuously scattered among the impressive rock formations.
“Sundowner” magic, Mowani Mountain Camp style
One of the highlights in the camp is the sunset: here it’s celebrated with a “sundowner” at a bar specially designed for just this experience!
Chairs are set up on a huge rock slab every evening and seat cushions are piled up. Thick tree trunks serve as backrests.
The traditional drink – a gin and tonic – comes with delicious homemade canapés.
The views of the rugged Aba Huab Valley landscape are magnificent, the sunsets spectacular!
“Pinch me, please,” I tell Walter as I watch the fiery red ball sink slowly behind the distant mountainous horizon.
Safari: tracking the desert elephant
Another Mowani Camp highlight is the nature and game viewing drive into surrounding Damaraland.
Our guide Rosie is keen on showing us the rare desert elephants. They often trek for miles along the riverbed of the Up River Valley in search of water.
So, at the crack of dawn and in rather nippy temperatures, we set off with Rosie in search of elephants.
Luckily she has packed ponchos for us because despite our fleece and down jackets (!) we were shivering: The wind chill made the temperature feel just above zero!
The landscape is magnificent! Here and there we spot a giraffe. But of elephants, nothing is to be seen far and wide. Rosie shows no signs of giving up – she swore to having seen three elephants along the road just a day earlier!
As a native Bushwoman, she knows the area like the back of her hand. Nimbly she drives the 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser through the thickets.
Repeatedly she cautions us to hold on tight. The drive gradually turns into a road rally – until we suddenly find ourselves stuck!
Unfazed, Rosie takes off her shoes and rolls up her pants to climb out of the jeep and step into the mud.
She set off in search of stouter tree branches. With them, she wants to make sure we can dismount from the jeep without stepping into the mud. Well, if that’s not looking after us!
Right away, Rosie learns over the radio that two other Land Cruisers within a radius of 100 meters are also stuck.
Way to go!
Three guides and ten tourists now join forces trying to extricate the off-road vehicles from the muck.
After several attempts – and thanks to the aid rendered by another guide who brings the necessary tools in his car – we finally succeed!
Thankfully, the guides only tell us later that lions had already been spotted in the area…
On the way back to Mowani Mountain Camp we see… the elephants after all. We enjoy the sight of the pachyderms all the more as a kind of reward for our travails earlier, but we were already looking forward to the well-earned sunset relaxation at the camp.
I’d had enough adrenaline for one day!
The rock paintings at Twyfelfontein
With guide Rosie showing us the way, we also visit the Twyfelfontein rock paintings, 20 km distant from the camp.
As one of the most important sites of African rock engravings, Twyfelfontein has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.
Rosie shares with us the handed-down knowledge about the ancient Bushmen rock paintings. However, she has her own thesis about some of them, which she offers with a secretive mien ;-)
Fascinating Damaraland
Damaraland is located in northwest Namibia and stretches between the Ugab and Huab rivers.
This landscape of mostly steppe desert and craggy rock formations is one of Namibia’s most fascinating regions. At times, it also brought to mind a Martian landscape.
Getting there
The camp is well worth a two-night stay on a Namibia circular self-driving tour. It is easily reached on well-maintained gravel roads.
(Click here for Walter’s write-up on Namibia’s roads).
More images from Mowani Mountain Camp
