“Gray below, blue above.” In October and November, that’s practically a law of nature on the Swiss Plateau, the country’s fog-prone lowlands. And that’s exactly what we’re counting on!
Because I really don’t like gray days. I crave sunshine like a lizard craves a warm rock. So it’s out of the fog and up onto the Äugsten, high above Ennenda in the canton of Glarus.
The aerial cableway from Ennenda lifts us out of the gray in just a few minutes.
At the top: sunshine, blue skies, and a glorious panorama with the Tödi and the Glärnisch with its Vrenelisgärtli summit.
And below us, a sea of fog that looks as if someone had stuffed the entire valley with cotton wool. Lizard: satisfied.
The Holzflue loop is made for foggy days: short, varied, and a perfect half-day trip.
The Glarnersprinter train (S25) gets you to Ennenda station from Pfäffikon SZ (or from Zurich) in no time.
Walter and I love the many colors of autumn and that mild, golden light that softens the landscape in November. The higher reaches of the Glarus region have both in abundance.
Holzflue Loop at a Glance
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Distance | approx. 4 km / 2.5 miles (loop) |
| Elevation gain/loss | approx. 390 to 420 m each way, depending on the source |
| Duration | 1 h 50 min to 2 h according to hiking portals; we took almost 2.5 h (with lots of photo stops) |
| Difficulty | Mountain hiking trail, T2 on the Swiss hiking scale |
| Trailhead (start and finish) | Top station of the Äugstenbahn cableway, Bärenboden (1,446 m above sea level) |
| Highest point | around 1,800 m above sea level |
| Signage | SwitzerlandMobility hiking route no. 821, “Holzflue-Rundweg” |
| Best season | June to October recommended; in November the cableway closes for maintenance |
| Food and drink | Äugstenhütte near the top station (check the season) |
| Getting there | Train to Ennenda, then the Äugstenbahn cableway (book your ride by phone) |
Getting There: Public Transport to Ennenda and Up on the Äugstenbahn
Ennenda is right next to the town of Glarus and easy to reach by public transport (S25) from Rapperswil (or from Zurich). From Ennenda station, the valley station of the Äugstenbahn cableway is just a short walk away. It took us about 5 minutes; other portals say up to 10.
The cableway runs regularly. But heads up: you have to book your ride by phone! The cabin only holds 8 people, so just showing up and hopping on isn’t an option.
You’ll find current prices and all operating details on the Äugstenbahn website.
Parking: There are only a few parking spaces right at the cableway. If you’re coming by car, you’re better off leaving it at Ennenda station. There’s plenty of parking there, and the valley station is a 5-minute walk away.
The Hike: Forest Reserve, World Heritage, and Autumn Light
From the Bärenboden top station, it’s about 10 minutes to the Äugstenhütte.
From there, the trail leads past the Wildhüeterhüttli (the gamekeeper’s hut) and Alt Stafel into the Äugstenwald forest, on to the Beglingen alp, and back to the hut.
The route is signposted as “Holzflue-Rundweg,” with green stickers and the SwitzerlandMobility hiking signs.
Along the way, you hike through part of the Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona UNESCO World Heritage Site and through the Äugstenwald-Holzflue forest reserve. And it was this forest reserve that totally captivated us!
Here’s what kept luring the camera out of our hands:
- A former fir forest, largely wiped out by bark beetles. Grotesque, and yet strangely beautiful.
- Huge boulders scattered all through the woods.
- The view down into the Glarus valley, with a sea of fog below.
- The mild autumn light that bathes everything in soft colors.
Which is why time refused to stand still: officially, the loop takes just under 2 hours, but we needed almost 2.5. Blame the many photo stops (we plead guilty).
Important: The trail also passes through the Schilt federal wildlife reserve. Be sure to stay on the marked trails.
Food and Tips: Morning Frost, Slippery Patches, and a Closed Hut
The Äugstenhütte is a great spot for lunch or a snack. But only until the end of October, when the season wraps up. By the time we got there, it was already closed.
Because autumn mornings often bring frost, the trail can be wet, and some stretches are slippery!
Walter learns this the hard way: on a steeper stretch, he starts to slide and only stays on his feet thanks to an acrobatic feat. Arms windmilling, eyes wide open, he catches himself just before a faceplant into the mud. Whoa there… close call.
My tip: Wear hiking boots with good tread and allow a little extra time, especially if you’re setting out early in the day.
Conclusion: A Fog Escape with a World Heritage Bonus
The Holzflue loop is a short, varied autumn hike you can easily do in half a day.
It’s ideal when the Swiss Plateau is stuck under a blanket of fog and you need some sunshine.
The Äugstenwald-Holzflue forest reserve and the view over the sea of fog are worth every photo stop (and there are plenty of them).
